THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 
OF  CALIFORNIA 


*&. 


THE  GASTRONOMY  COLLECTION  OF 
GEORGE  HOLL 

AGRIC. 
LIBRARY 


'.« 


*w  -w 


THE 


NEW    CYCLOPAEDIA 

OF 

DOMESTIC   ECONOMY, 

AND 

PRACTICAL  HOUSEKEEPER. 

ADAPTED  TO  ALL  CLASSES   OF  SOCIETY, 

AND   COMPRISING 

SUBJECTS  CONNECTED  WITH  THE  INTERESTS  OF  EVERY  FAMILY; 

SUCH  AS 

DOMESTIC  EDUCATION,   HOUSES,   FURNITURE,  DUTIES  OF  MISTRESS, 

DUTIES   OF    DOMESTICS,   THE    STOREROOM,   MARKETING,  TABLE 

AND    ATTENDANCE,   CARE    AND .  TRAINING   OF    CHILDREN, 

CARE    OF    THE    SICK,     PREPARATION    OF    FOOD     FOR 

CHILDREN    AND    INVALIDS,    PRESERVATION    OF 

HEALTH,    DOMESTIC    MEDICINE,    THE    ART 

OF  COOKERY,    PERFUMERY,  THE 

TOILET,    COSMETICS, 


FIVE  THOUSAND  PRACTICAL  EECEIPTS  AND  IAIIMS. 

FROM  THE  BEST  ENGLISH,   FRENCH,   GERMAN,   AND  AMERICAN    SOURCES. 
ILLUSTRATED   WITH 

OVER  TWO  HUNDRED  ENGRAVINGS. 

*  it 

EDITED  BY  IKS,  E.  F,  ELLET, 

AUTHOR  OF  "  THE  WOMEN  OF  THE  REVOLUTION,"  ETC.,  ETC. 

NORWICH,   CONN.: 
PUBLISHED    BY    HENRY    BILL. 

0.  A.  BROWNING,  TOLEDO,  O.;  C.  C.  HASKELL,  LEWISTON,  ME.;  IRA  A.  SMITH,  MILFORD, 
MASS.;  AND  HUGH  HERON,  CHICAGO,  ILL.,  GENERAL  AGENTS. 

1872/ 


Entered,  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1871, 

BY  HENRY   BILL, 
In  the  Office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress,  at  Washington. 


RAND,  AVERY;  &  Co.,  PRINTERS, 
3  CORNHILL,  BOSTON. 


PREFACE. 


of  long  experience  and  tried  skill.  Several  valuable  recipes, 
never  before  made  public,  have  been  furnished  for  this  work 
by  Delmonico,  Taylor,  Wagner,  Sneckner,  and  other  pro- 
prietors of  celebrated  establishments  in  New  York. 

The  Toilet  Department,  and  Perfumery,  Cosmetics,  <fec., 
do  not  strictly  belong  to  housekeeping;  but  every  lady 
must  desire  some  knowledge  of  them,  and  it  is  convenient 
to  have  a  manual  containing  instructions  as  to  the  com- 
pounding of  articles  required  for  the  hair  and  complexion. 
The  fair  reader  will  not  object  to  the  space  and  attention 
devoted  to  these  matters. 

The  Family  Medical  Guide  is  not  designed  to  interfere 
with  the  province  of  the  physician,  but  to  furnish  simple 
and  approved  recipes  for  use  when  medical  advice  cannot  be 
procured,  and  palliatives  to  promote  the  comfort  of  the  sick. 
All  these  recipes  have  been  submitted  to  a  prominent  phy- 
sician, and  approved  by  him. 

The  section  appropriated  to  the  sick  is  unusually  com- 
prehensive, containing  many  new  recipes.  The  Miscella- 
neous Department  is  also  enriched  with  several  tried  and 
excellent  ones,  never  before  published.  The  numerous 
illustrative  cuts,  which  are  found  in  no  other  volume,  will 
help  to  explain  the  method  and  use  of  various  housekeeping 
articles.  E.  F.  E. 


CONTENTS. 


PARTL 
CHAPTER  I. 

PA< 

Thoughts  and  Maxims  on  Housekeeping,    15 

CHAPTER  II. 
The  Dwelling  House,  &c.,  .        .        .        .18 

CHAPTER  III. 
Furnishing  a  House, 21 

CHAPTER  IV. 
Plate,  Cutlery,  House-linen,  Ac.,        .        .    24 

CHAPTER  V. 
Servants, 26 

CHAPTER  VI. 
Duties  of  the  Housewife.    The  Dinner,    .    31 

CHAPTER  VII. 
Duties  of  the  Servants,       .       .       .       .41 

CHAPTER  VIII. 
The  Care  of  Children,         .        .        .        .46 

CHAPTER  IX. 
The  Care  of  the  Sick,         .       :       .       .50 

CHAPTER  X. 
The  Store-room  and  Marketing,         .        .    53 

CHAPTER  XI. 
Domestic  Manipulation,      .        .        .       .    59 

CHAPTER  XII. 
Decanting,  Straining  and  Filtering  Liquids,    65 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

The  Manufacture  and  Use  of  Cements,        .    69 

CHAPTER  XIV. 
Powdering,  Grinding,  &c.,         .        .        .72 


CHAPTER  XV. 

PA61 

Knots,  Parcels,  &c. 74 

CHAPTER  XVI. 
Adulteration  of  Food  and  Purity  of  Water,  78 

CHAPTER  XVII. 
Boiling,  Stewing,  &c.,  »  «  .  .81 

CHAPTER  XVIII. 
Economy  of  Heat, 84 

CHAPTER  XIX. 
Cleaning  and  Disinfecting,         .       .       .88 

CHAPTER  XX. 
Fermenting  and  Distilling,        .       .       ..    91 

CHAPTER  XXI. 
Laying  out  Tables  and  Folding  Napkins,  .  94 

CHAPTER  XXII. 

Trussing  and  Carving,        ....  103 
CHAPTER  XXIII. 

Culinary  Utensils, 116 

CHAPTER  XXIV. 

Cookery  as  an  Art, 124 

CHAPTER  XXV. 

Foreign  Terms  used  in  Cookery,       .       .  126 

CHAPTER  XXVI. 

Condiments, 129 

CHAPTER  XXVH. 

Rudiments  of  Cookery,       ....  186 

CHAPTER  XXVIII. 

Hints  and  Maxims, 148 

CHAPTER  XXIX. 
Articles  in  Season  for  each  Month,    .        .  149 


12 


CONTENTS. 


PART  IL 


Receipts  for  Soups,    . 

Meat  Soups, 

Soups  of  Game,  Poultry,  Ac., 

Vegetables, 

Fish  Soups, 

Fish, 

Shell  Fish,          .       .       . 
Sauces  for  Fish,          .        . 
Gravies,  Sauces,  Ac.,          • 
Ketchups,  .... 
Farces  and  Stuffings, 
Receipts  for  Dressing  Beef, 
Receipts  for  Dressing  Veal, 
Receipts  for  Dressing  Mutton, 
Receipts  for  Dressing  Lamb, 
Receipts  for  Dressing  Pork, 
Sausages  and  Forcemeat,    . 
Curing  Meat,  Potting  and  Collaring, 
Poultry  and  Game, 

Venison, 

Vegetables,  * 

Salads, 

Pickles  and  Store  Room  Sauces, 
Paste,  Meat,  Game  and  Fish  Pies, 
Fruit  Pies,  Puffs,  Ac., 

Puddings, 

Sweet  Puddings,         .        .       . 
Italian  Pastes,    .... 

Rice 

Cheese, 

Pancakes,  Fritters,     . 

Various  Modes  of  Cooking  Eggs, 

To  Make  Bread, 

Biscuits  and  Warm  Cakes,         . 

Butter, 


.  155 
.  156 
.  171 
.  179 
.  185 
.  188 
.  204 
.  214 
.  218 
.  242 
.  243 
.  249 
.  276 
.  296 
.  811 
.  818 
.  337 
.  341 
.  356 
.  874 
.  376 
.  390 
.  393 
.  406 
.  425 
.  436 
.  439 
.  450 
.  452 
.  454 
.  457 
.  459 
.  464 
.  467 
.  472 


PAOH 

.  473 
.  486 
.  494 
.  498 
.  510 
.  514 
.  517 
.  526 
.  529 
Bills  of  Fare, 532 


Cakes,  Ac.,         .... 
Custards,  -Creams,  Jellies,  Ac.,  . 
Coffee,  Tea  and  Chocolate, 
Preserves,  &c.,    .... 
Beverages,          .... 
Wines  and  Liqueurs, 
Cookery  for  the  Sick, 
Food  and  Cookery  for  Children, 
Savory  Dishes  for  Breakfast, 


PART  HI 


537 
538 
542 
543 
545 


Perfumery,          . 

Essences  and  Extracts,       .        . 

Compound  Odors,  or  Bouquets, 

Spirituous  Infusions, 

Oils  for  the  Hair, 

Cosmetics,  .......  546 

Powders, 546 

Soaps, 547 

Cold  Creams, 547 

Pommades, 548 

Salves  and  Balsams, 549 

Vinegars, 549 

Salts, .  551 

Cassolettes, 551 

Sachets, 552 

Hair  Washes 553 

Fumigating  Paper, 553 

Pastilles  for  Necklaces,  Bracelets,  Ac.,      .  554 

Hair  Dyes, 554 

Depilatory, 555 

Shaving  Pastes,  ......  555 

The  Family  Medical  Guide,        .        .        .556 
Miscellaneous  Receipts,      ....  567 

Index, 588 


PART  FIRST. 
THOUGHTS  AND  MAXIMS  ON  HOUSEKEEPING. 


THE 


PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


PART  I. 

THOUGHTS  AND  MAXIMS  ON  HOUSEKEEPING. 


CHAPTER  I. 

DR.  STARK  says,  "  The  only  test  of  the 
utility  of  knowledge  is  its  promotion  of 
the  happiness  of  mankind."  Viewed 
thus,  the  subject  we  are  about  to  treat 
presents  claims  superior  to  most  others, 
and  is  eminently  worthy  of  study.  The 
superintendence  of  a  house,  and  the  man- 
agement, forethought,  domestic  economy, 
and  good  sterling  sense  requisite  for  the 
discharge  of  this  duty,  demand  applica- 
tion and  perseverance,  and  ought  to  re- 
ceive as  much,  at  least,  as  is  bestowed 
on  the  acquisition  of  music,  painting,  or 
any  of  the  ornamental  accomplishments. 
Young  ladies  are  educated  to  shine  in 
society;  would  it  not  be  well  if  they 
were  also  sedulously  taught — by  a  sys- 
tem of  training — to  perform  the  homely 
duties  which  make  home  the  abode  of 
comfort  ? 

It  has  been  said  that  Americans  in 
general  have  little  attachment  to  home. 
Often,  indeed,  is  the  domestic  comfort, 
so  prized  in  England,  absent  from  the 
abodes  even  of  the  wealthy,  in  our  land. 
May  not  this  undeniable  fact,  and  the 
roving  propensity  of  young  people  in  this 
country,  be  attributable  to  the  circum- 
stance that  girls,  whose  condition  exempts 
them  from  servitude,  are  brought  up 
wholly  without  reference  to  home  du- 
ties ?  Even  those  who  may  depend  on 


their  own  labor  for  a  subsistence,  are 
taught  some  trade,  or  superficially  quali- 
fied as  teachers,  or  instructed  in  various 
branches  of  needlework ;  while  they  know 
little  or  nothing  of  household  matters ; 
though  such  knowledge  would  enable 
them  to  command  an  independence.  It 
is  not  alone  the  wife  and  mother  who 
should  be  skilled  in  domestic  affairs; 
every  girl  who  has  emerged  from  child- 
hood, is  liable  to  be  called  on  to  take 
charge  of  a  house.  If  the  mother  is 
bedridden,  or  deceased,  why  should  the 
father  of  daughters  sixteen  or  eighteen 
years  old  be  compelled  to  look  elsewhere 
for  a  housekeeper,  and  intrust  the  man- 
agement to  the  hands  of  a  stranger  ? 

The  general  cultivation  of  this  valu- 
able knowledge,  too,  would  make  the  oc- 
cupation of  a  "  help,"  or  servant,  more 
acceptable  to  thousands  who  now  prefer 
starvation  in  a  garret,  or  the  ruin  of 
health  in  sedentary  employments.  The 
more  attention  is  turned  to  this  branch 
of  learning,  the  more  will  its  importance 
be  recognized,  and  the  higher  place  will 
it  assume  in  the  list  of  useful  arts ;  and 
a  degree  of  respect  being  accorded  to 
those  who  excel,  more  will  be  found 
ready  to  engage  in  it  as  a  profession. 
What  an  improvement  would  be  made, 
by  such  a  result,  in  our  social  and  do- 
mestic life ! 

We  would  not  be  understood  to  say 


16 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


that  we  would  have  a  woman  merely  an 
upper  servant  in  the  house  it  is  her 
province  to  guide,  or  that  we  undervalue 
intellectual  attainments  and  elegant  oc- 
cupations. But  it  will  not  detract  from 
the  charm  of  these,  nor  from  the  dignity 
of  *the  well-bred  lady — to  be  familiar 
with  the  routine  of  domestic  duties,  well 
acquainted  with  the  minutiae  of  house- 
hold economy,  and  competent  to  direct, 
or  if  need  be,  teach  her  servants ;  ay, 
even,  to  do  things  herself  in  cases  of 
necessity.  On  the  other  hand,  will  it 
not  enhance  admiration  and  strengthen 
regard,  to  see  that  she  possesses  these 
acquirements,  and  is  willing  to  exercise 
them  to  promote  the  comfort  of  others  ? 
Who  can  tell  that  she  may  not.  at  some 
period  of  life,  be  thrown  into  circum- 
stances where  the  mere  fine  lady  would 
be  utterly  helpless,  or  where  intellectual 
refinement  and  distinguished  position 
may  prove  less  available  than  industry, 
ingenuity,  and  practical  common  sense  ? 

What  is  a  kingdom,  a  merchant's 
counting-house,  or  a  mechanic's  workshop 
without  a  head?  We  do  not  mean  a 
mere  master,  but  a  presiding  intellect  to 
plan,  contrive,  direct,  and  guide.  Not 
less  absolute  or  important  is  the  rule 
of  &  sensible  woman  in  her  own  home. 
She  has  full  scope  for  the  exercise  of 
good  taste,  prudence,  and  refinement. 
She  is  invested  with  an  amount  of  respon- 
sibility she  perhaps  never  dreamed  of, 
for  her  influence  over  the  temper,  habits, 
actions,  and  dispositions  of  those  about 
her  is  very  great,  and  great  in  proportion 
should  be  her  self-government  for  with 
self  the  command  must  begin,  if  it  is  to 
be  worth  having. 

There  is  much  talk,  nowadays,  about 
the  "  rights  "  and  "  mission  "  of  woman 
Without  entering  into  the  merits  of  the 
subject,  we  would  only  say,  that  if  women 
from  the  highest  to  the  lowest,  were 
systematically  educated  to  wield  properly 
the  great  power  they  indubitably  possess 


i  power  which  can  be  made  to  move 
the  secret  springs  of  action  and  the 
machinery  of  business — they  would  have 
little  reason  to  complain  of  the  want  of 
influence;  and  were  they  so  trained  to 
enter  actively  and  energetically  into  do- 
mestic employments  and  affairs,  that  none 
could  deem  it  a  pursuit  unworthy  of  them, 
they  would  find  ample  scope  for  the 
exercise  of  their  faculties,  and  the  acqui- 
sition of  means  to  live. 

There  is  a  medium,  however,  in  all 
things.  A  woman  who  worries  all  with- 
in her  reach  by  her  ultra-housewifery, 
who  damps  one  down  with  soap  and 
water,  poisons  one  with  furniture  polish, 
takes  away  one's  appetite  by  the  trouble 
there  is  about  cooking  the  simplest 
thing,  and  fidgets  one  by  over-done  tidi- 
ness and  cleanliness,  is  almost  as  much 
to  be  avoided  as  a  downright  slut,  or  the 
veriest  simpleton  who  ever  took  counsel 
with  her  stppid  servant  as  to  how  long 
a  potato  ought  to  be  boiled ;  she  exercises 
a  pernicious  influence  on  all,  and  is  a 
misery  to  herself  and  others. 

Neither  would  we  have  domestic  econ- 
omy and  home  duties  vaunted,  or  made 
the  constant  theme  of  conversation ; 
they  are  the  private  employments  of  a 
woman ;  she  must  study  other  things  in 
order  to  entertain  her,  relatives  and 
friends.  Those  who  talk  most  of  their 
duties  are  generally  those  who  perform 
them  most  imperfectly.  When  a  man 
returns  to  his  home,  or  enters  his  sitting- 
room,  fatigued  and  perhaps  disappointed 
by  the  business  of  the  day,  he  does  not 
want  to  be  annoyed  by  the  detail  of  do- 
mestic accidents,  the  misdemeanors  of 
servants,  and  the  cheating  of  tradespeo- 
ple ;  he  has  had  his  worries  during  the 
day,  too,  and,  with  that  pride,  or  reserve, 
or  want  of  confidence  which  is  peculiar 
to  most  men,  he  perhaps  keeps  them  to 
himself.  Let  his  example  be  followed  in 
'all  cases  where  advice,  or  support,  o* 
assistance  is  not  absolutely  necessary, 


FEMALE   EDUCATION. 


17 


and  pleasant,  cheerful  themes  be  chosen, 
or  some  amusement  selected  which  shall 
render  the  evening  and  leisure  hours 
those  of  relaxation  and  enjoyment,  and 
ttend  to  give  a  charm  and  zest  to  home 
which  no  other  place  can  possess.  Men 
are  free  to  come  and  go  as  they  list,  they 
have  so  much  liberty  of  action,  so  many 
out-door  resources  if  wearied  with  in- 
doors, that  it  is  good  policy,  if  nothing 
else,  to  make  home  attractive  as  well  as 
comfortable. 

An  education  in  household  matters 
should  be  complete — comprising  the 
knowledge  requisite  for  use  in  all  de- 
partments. 

Many  a  girl  can  make  good  pastry, 
jellies,  &c.,  for  an  evening  party,  and 
being  much  complimented  for  her  labors 
by  those  who  relish  the  produce,  forth- 
with fancies  herself  a  capital  housewife, 
while,  in  all  probability,  she  scarcely 
knows  how  vegetables  are  cooked,  is 
profoundly  ignorant  of  the  prices  of  the 
commonest  articles  of  daily  consumption, 
and  could  not  tell  of  what  material  a 
housecloth  ought  to  be  made.  And 
how  few  there  are  who  could,  in  case  of 
need,  make  a  cup  of  good  gruel,  or  a  glass 
of  white-wine  whey,  or  even  a  little 
broth  or  barley-water !  We  do  not  say 
that  they  could  not  manage  to  produce 
something  resembling  these  things,  but 
the  capricious  appetite  of  the  invalid 
tfould  reject  the  tasteless  messes.  Many 
have  suffered  martyrdom  from  this  one 
neglected  branch  of  female  education. 

Perhaps  few  branches  of  female  educa- 
tion are  more  useful  than  great  readi- 
ness in  figures.  Accounts  should  be 
regularly  kept,  and  not  the  smallest 
article  omitted  to  be  entered.  If  balanc- 
ed every  week  or  month,  the  income  and 
outgoings  will  be  ascertained  with  facil- 
ity, and  their  proportions  to  each  oth- 
er duly  observed.  Some  people  fix  on 
stated  sums  to  be  appropriated  to  each 
different  article,  as  house,  clothes,  pocket, 


education  of  children,  &c.  "Whatever 
may  be  the  amount  of  household  expen- 
diture, a  certain  mode  should  be  adopted 
and  strictly  adhered  to.  Besides  the 
regular  account-book,  in  which  the  receipt 
of  money  and  every  payment  should  be 
regularly  entered,  a  common-place  book 
should  be  always  at  hand  for  the  entry 
of  observations  regarding  agreements 
with  servants,  tradesmen,  and  various 
other  subjects,  so  as  to  enable  the  lady 
at  once  to  ascertain  the  exact  state  of 
the  affairs  under  her  immediate  manage- 
ment. 

A  minute  account  of  the  annual  income 
and  the  times  of  payment  should  be 
taken  in  writing;  likewise  an  estimate 
of  the  supposed  amount  of  each  article 
of  expense  ;  and  those  who  are  early  ac- 
customed to  calculations  on  domestic 
articles  will  acquire  so  accurate  a  knowl- 
edge of  what  their  establishment  requires, 
as  will  enable  them  to  keep  the  happy 
medium  between  prodigality  and  parsi- 
mony. 

Some  aver  that  they  have  no  capacity 
for  this  matter,  no  taste  for  that.  But 
if  the  things  referred  to  are  duties,  culti- 
vate a  taste — persevere  in  endeavoring 
to  improve  a  capacity  for  them.  This 
world  is  a  beautiful  one,  spite  of  what 
grumblers  say,  and  thousands  would  find 
it  a  much  happier  one  if  they  studied 
more  what  they  ought  to  do,  and  sought 
their  pleasure  or  indulged  their  fancies 
less.  Every  human  being  exercises  some 
influence  on  the  character,  happiness 
and  destinies  of  others,  and  is  account- 
able for  opportunities  wasted,  and  bless- 
ings neglected  or  transformed.  This  is 
especially  true  of  women.  Every  sensi- 
ble, high-minded,  right- hearted  woman, 
be  she  peeress  or  peasant — is,  or  may  be, 
a  blessing  to  many ;  if  not  by  great  deeds 
or  achievements  the  world  calls  heroic, 
by  a  simple,  quiet,  straightforward  per- 
formance of  the  duties  which  lie  before 
her,  and  are  therefore  given  her  to  do. 


18 


THE   PRACTICAL    HOUSEKEEPER. 


As  it  is  the  business  of  man  to  provide 
the  means  of  living  comfortably,  so  it  is 
the  province  of  woman  to  dispose  judi- 
ciously of  those  means,  and  maintain 
order  and  harmony  in  all  things.  On 
her  due  performance  of  her  part  rest  the 
comfort  and  social  peace  of  home  ;  while 
misery  and  ruin  follow  her  neglect. 
Some  women,  it  is  true,  are  placed  in  an 
unnatural  position  by  having  the  burden 
of  supporting  the  family  thrown  upon 
them.  They  have  double  duties,  and  a 
harder  part  to  sustain;  but  their  toils 
may  be  materially  lightened  by  care  and 
method  in  what  they  have  to  do. 

So  much  by  way  of  exordium.  We 
shall  now  proceed  through  the  various 
matters  appertaining  to  a  house,  en- 
deavoring to  present  a  clear  chart  of  the 
necessary  business,  pointing  out  hidden 
rocks,  and  showing  how  these  may  be 
avoided,  and  the  vessel  sent  to  float  in 
calm  waters.  With  much  labor  we  have 
collected  information  on  all  subjects  that 
fall  within  the  proper  scope  of  house- 
keeping ;  and  multifarious  as  these  are, 
it  is  our  belief  that  she  who  consults  our 
index  will  be  sure  to  find  whatever  she 
can  wish  to  know. 


CHAPTER  II. 

THAT  sensible  and  oft-quoted  old  lady, 
Mrs.  Glasse,  begins  one  of  her  recipes 
thus :  "  First  catch  your  hare."  Follow- 
ing so  good  an  example,  we  will  first  take 
a  house  and  furnish  it,  before  laying  down 
axioms  for  its  management. 

Before  any  steps  are  taken,  the  income 
or  pecuniary  means  of  the  parties  about 
to  commence  housekeeping,  should  be 
well  considered.  It  is  not  well  to  rush 
into  matrimony  without  due  attention  to 
such  sublunary  matters  as  dollars  and 
cents ;  for  the  notion  that  when  once  a 
couple  is  married,  all  will  go  right,  is  a 


foolish  one.  A  young  man  with  an  in- 
come of  four  or  five  hundred  dollars, 
every  cent  of  which  has  been  annually 
swallowed  up  by  his  own  expenses,  falls 
in  love  with  a  young  lady  who  can  sing 
and  play  well,  speak  French  and  produce 
marvels  in  the  way  of  crochet  or  orna- 
mental work,  who  loves  sentimental  po- 
etry and  romance,  and  can  trim  herself  a 
neat  bonnet  j  but  knows  little  of  the  re- 
alities of  life.  Having  never  known  what 
it  is  to  want  any  thing — she  has  no  idea 
that  any  thing  can  be  wanted.  The 
young  man  feels  certain  in  his  own  mind 
that  a  wife  will  be  an  actual  saving  to 
him  j  and  makes  an  eloquent  declaration 
of  his  aifection.  The  prospect  for  the  fu- 
ture is  but  slender;  for  he  ignores  the 
fact  that  he  has  been  accustomed  to  spend 
half  his  income  on  clothes  and  amuse- 
ments, which  he  does  not  think  of  doing 
without ;  and  she  forgets  how  much  she 
is  in  the  habit  of  spending  on  gloves,  rib- 
bons, perfumes,  et  cetera.  When  they  are 
married — the  bridal  dress  and  entertain- 
ment not  being  reckoned  among  their  ex- 
penses— they  find  themselves  fettered  by 
a  thousand  inconveniences,  and  obliged 
to  deny  themselves  travelling  and  many 
other  kinds  of  recreation;  more  than 
that,  they  discover  that  the  etiquette  of 
this  enlightened  age,  imperiously  demands 
reckless  expenditure,  when  common  sense 
would  advise  more  than  usual  economy ; 
and  without  losing  the  social  position 
they  aim  to  preserve,  they  can  do  nothing 
but  submit.  What  an  eifect  on  the  suc- 
cess of  after-life  must  be  such  a  begin- 
ning ! 

However,  we  do  not  consider  it  our 
mission  to  enter  on  Quixotic  quarrels 
with  the  ways  of  the  world.  It  is,  as 
our  young  people  soon  find — 

"  A  very  good  world  to  live  in, 
To  lend,  to  spend,  or  to  give  in; 
But  to  beg,  or  borrow,  or  get  one's  own, 
'Tis  the  very  worst  world  that  ever  was  known." 

In  taking  a  house,  the  first  matters  to 


THE   DWELLING-HOUSE. 


19 


be  considered,  are  the  rent  we  can  afford 
to  give,  or  the  money  that  can  be  devoted 
to  its  purchase,  and  the  locality  that  suits 
us  best. 

A  dwelling  in  town  affords  many  op- 
portunities for  social  intercourse,  amuse- 
ment, and  the  acquisition  of  general 
knowledge ;  a  suburban  residence  offers 
some  advantages  in  healthiness  of  loca- 
tion and  convenience.  The  remote  coun- 
try has  a  distinct  class  of  enjoyments, 
though  want  of  society  often  makes  time 
pass  slowly.  Where  locality  is  not  speci- 
fied, always  choose  one  as  open  and  airy 
as  may  be,  and  where  the  soil,  or  at  any 
rate  the  subsoil,  is  not  clay,  where  the 
drainage  is  good,  and  there  is  an  ample 
supply  of  water,  and  no  neighboring  fac- 
tories giving  out  noxious  gases  and  poi- 
sonous smoke  and  vapor.  Too  close  a 
vicinity  to  a  churchyard  is  likewise  to  be 
avoided.  Of  course,  the  house  must  be 
capable  of  accommodating  the  family  who 
are  to  occupy  it,  and  there  should  always 
be  a  spare  room  or  two  which  can  be 
used  for  bed-rooms,  or  other  purposes  in 
case  of  emergency.  There  should  be 
closets,  cellars,  &c.,  and  good  ventilation 
front  and  back.  A  fee  to  a  well-qualified 
surveyor  is  often  well  bestowed ;  for  he 
may  detect  serious  faults  in  a  house 
which,  to  an  ordinary  observer,  seems 
well  built  and  comfortable. 

The  agreement  with  the  landlord  should 
be  clearly  understood,  and  all  liabilities 
as  to  taxes,  local  rates,  house  repairs, 
with  charges  for  fixtures,  &c.,  inquired 
into,  and  definitely  arranged,  before  the 
agreement  is  signed. 

It  will  be  well  for  every  house  to  have 
some  shelter  at  its  entrance ;  a  porch  or 
portico,  in  a  style  regulated  by  that  of 
the  rest  of  the  building,  will  be  found 
useful.  A  hall,  vestibule,  or  entry,  is  es1 
sential,  and  the  size  and  location  of  the 
staircases  considerably  affect  the  con- 
venience of  the  dwelling.  The  dining- 
room  should  be  so  placed  that  the  way 


;o  it  from  the  kitchen  is  easy,  and  yet  so 
;hat  the  noise  or  odors  do  not  prove  an- 
noying. The  general  style  of  the  draw- 
ng-room  should  be  light  and  cheerful; 
that  of  the  library  plain  and  quiet.  The 
bed-chambers  should  be  as  lofty  and 
spacious  as  possible,  and  so  contrived 
that  a  thorough  draught  can  be  obtained, 
to  change  the  air  completely.  Each 
should  have  a  chimney  fireplace.  Small 
closets  and  recesses  are  to  be  avoided  as 
sleeping  apartments.  The  nursery  should 
be  near  the  chamber  of  the  mistress. 

Dressing  and  bath-rooms  should  be  as 
uniformly  attached  to  bed-rooms  as  the 
size  of  the  house  and  means  of  the  owner 
will  permit ;  the  bath  is  an  indispensable 
convenience.  Every  house  should  be 
provided  with  two  water-closets  at  least. 
In  large  establishments,  a  breakfast-room 
looking  eastward  and  with  glass  doors 
opening  on  a  garden  or  lawn,  a  billiard- 
room  for  exercise  within  doors,  a  room 
for  hunting  and  fishing  tackle,  a  gallery 
for  music,  paintings,  or  statuary,  a  lady's 
boudoir  or  sitting-room  tastefully  orna- 
mented, a  school-room,  and  domestic 
laboratory,  with  a  conservatory,  are 
convenient  additions.  A  number  of 
rooms  for  domestic  offices  are  connected 
with  the  house,  and  various  cellars,  as 
well  as  separate  buildings,  appropriated 
to  many  different  purposes — which  we 
shall  not  describe  particularly.  The 
kitchen  will  be  examined  under  another 
head. 

In  contriving  the  mode  of  warming  a 
house,  attention  should  be  paid  not  mere- 
ly to  economy  of  fuel,  but  to  the  preser- 
vation of  a  salubrious  atmosphere.  A 
chimney  fireplace  or  grate  is  preferable 
to  a  stove,  which  is  apt  to  give  the  air  a 
close  or  disagreeable  smell,  and  produce 
headache  and  stupor.  Count  Rumford 
imagined  that  the  hot  iron  roasted  the 
dust  that  settled  on  it,  which  dust  was 
composed  of  all  sorts  of  animal  and 
vegetable  matters;  others  complain  of 


20 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


the  extreme  dryness  of  the  air.  Stoves 
of  brick  or  earthenware,  used  in  various 
parts  of  Europe,  are  said  to  be  better 
than  iron ;  but  all  close  stoves  are  liable 
to  the  objection,  that  in  using  them  it  is 
difficult  to  change  the  air  continually,  or 
procure  proper  ventilation.  The  same 
difficulties  prevail,  to  some  extent,  in 
warming  a  house  by  a  furnace,  and  the 
dryness  of  the  air  is  often  productive  of 
discomfort.  Steam  might  afford  an 
agreeable  and  convenient  method  of 
warming  apartments.  Of  all  the  modes 
usually  adopted,  the  advantage  seems  to 
lie  with  the  open  fire.  The  temperature 
should  be  steady  and  not  too  high :  say 
60°  or  62°.  Apartments  in  our  cities 
are  generally  kept  at  a  dangerous  degree 
of  heat.  Bed-rooms  should  not  be 
warmed,  more  than  to  have  the  "  outside 
chill "  taken  off. 

Ventilation  is  a  very  important  con- 
sideration. The  atmospheric  air  in 
breathing  loses  the  constituent  that  sus- 
tains life,  and  must  be  got  rid  of,  and  re- 
placed by  air  that  is  fresh  and  pure. 
This  change  of  air  should  be  continually 
going  on  in  our  apartments.  Windows 
that  open  at  the  top  are  useful,  the 
vitiated  air  ascending  to  the  ceiling. 
The  practice  of  sleeping  in  rooms  not 
sufficiently  ventilated,  is  utterly  destruc- 
tive to  health.  It  should  be  remem- 
bered also  that  the  vital  part  of  air  is 
exhausted  by  a  burning  light.  It  would 
be  well  to  have  a  ventilator  in  the  cen- 
tre of  the  ceiling,  which  can  be  cpncealed 
by  ornamental  work  in  plaster ;  and  in 
the  admission  of  fresh  air,  care  should 
be  taken  that  it  does  not  come  in  a  di- 
rect stream,  so  as  to  produce  unpleasant 
draughts. 

It  is  often  necessary  to  fumigate  or 
disinfect  the  air  contaminated  by  noxious 
effluvia.  Muriatic  acid  and  nitric  acid 
fumes  have  been  employed  for  this  pur- 
pose, and  chlorine,  a  most  effectual  agent 
in  destroying  noxious  qualities  in  the  air, 


generally  employed.  Chloride  of  lime 
and  chloride  of  soda  are  used  as  the  most 
convenient  preparations.  The  latter  is 
called  Labarraque's  Disinfecting  Liquid. 
Vinegar  is  used  in  sick  rooms,  and  quick 
lime,  alone  or  mixed  with  ashes,  in  sinks, 
sewers,  &c. 

Having  taken  our  house,  it  generally 
wants  a  thorough  cleaning  and  airing. 
In  spring,  autumn,  and  winter,  fires 
should  be  kept  for  three  or  four  days, 
according  to  the  time  the"  house  has  been 
empty,  and  to  the  repairs  it  has  under- 
gone during  that  interval ;  for  of  course 
nobody  ought  to  enter  a  house  in  the 
state  of  dirt  and  disrepair  in  which  it  is 
usually  left  by  an  out-going  tenant,  or  if 
they  do  so  under  the  notion  that  the 
landlord  will  set  it  all  to  rights  after 
they  are  in,  they  will  find  out  their  mis- 
take, and  repent  their  confidence. 

It  sometimes  happens  that  the  chief 
rooms  are  not  papered  and  painted  until 
the  house  is  let.  In  such  case  the  in-com- 
ing tenant  generally  has  the  power  of 
choosing  the  papers,  or  panellings,  and 
paint.  He  will,  of  course,  select  such  as 
will  best  harmonize  with  the  color  which 
the  furniture  and  hangings  should  have. 

We  will  now  suppose  the  house  taken, 
cleaned  thoroughly,  and  well  aired,  and 
will  proceed  to  furnish  it.  But  first  we 
must  pause  to  observe  that  young  people 
will  do  well  carefully  to  consider  matters 
before  they  take  upon  themselves  the 
troubles  and  responsibilities  of  house- 
keepers. Where  their  joint  savings,  or 
some  sum  especially  bestowed  for  the 
purpose  by  friends  or  parents,  will  en- 
able them  to  make  the  necessary  outlay 
for  furniture,  linen.  &c.,  and  yet  have 
something  left  to  put  by  for  "  a  wet  day," 
and  the  rent  and  taxes  can  be  afforded 
by  the  income  of  the  husband,  it  is  all 
well  and  good.  But  if  money  must  be 
borrowed,  or  debts  incurred,  begin  life  in 
the  quietest  way,  rather  than  with  these 
incumbrances.  Take  board  or  apartments 


FTJENISHING   A   HOUSE. 


21 


for  a  time,  until  you  see  your  way  clear. 
From  $150  to  $400  a  year  will  pay  for 
part  of  a  house  in  a  city,  and  much  less 
in  a  village.  Board  can  be  obtained  in 
respectable  houses  at  four  or  five  dollars 
a  week  and  upwards  in  our  largest  towns. 
There  are  some  disadvantages  in  this 
mode  of  living.  It  is  customary  to  say 
that  boarders  are  victimized ;  one  is 
sometimes  brought  into  contact  with 
disagreeable  individuals,  who  become 
enemies  if  they  find  they  are  not  re- 
ceived in  a  sociable  or  friendly  manner  j 
and  on  the  whole,  it  is  wiser  to  keep 
house  with  three  or  four  rooms.  There 
are  always  respectable  families  to  be 
found,  who  will  let  a  set  of  apartments.' 
Now  to  the  business  of  furnishing  a 
house. 


CHAPTER  III. 

HERE  again  the  unsentimental  consider- 
ation of  dollars  and  cents  obtrudes  itself. 
The  limit  to  which  we  can  go  is  depend- 
ent upon  the  funds  in  hand  which  may 
be  expended  without  incurring  debt  or 
causing  inconvenience. 

It  would  be  curious  to  trace  the  his- 
tory of  furniture  in  different  ages*  and 
countries.  But  we  have  no  space  for 
such  a  review.  The  taste  has  been  re- 
vived of  late  years,  for  pieces  of  ancient 
furniture,  and  the  skill  of  cabinetmakers 
has  been  brought  into  requisition  to  pro- 
duce imitations  of  the  antique  style,  or 
tasteful  restorations,  by  the  putting  to- 
gether of  fragments,  interesting  from  sin- 
gular or  historical  associations. 

Window  curtains  contribute  much  to 
the  comfort  and  elegance  of.  apartments, 
tempering  the  light,  an  o*  excluding  the 
cold  air.  They  may  be  of  various  pat- 
terns and  materials. 

The  hall,  or  entry,  should  be  furnished 
with  an  umbrella  Jand  hat  stand,  and 


chairs  or  hall  seats.  If  there  is  a  closet 
for  hanging  up  hats;,  cloaks,  &c.,  it  should 
be  near  the  door.  Door  scrapers  should 
always  be  placed  at  the  entrance. 

PICTURES  ON  THE  WALL. 

Pictures,  if  well  chosen,  add  much  to 
the  appearance  of  a  room,  and  impart 
to  it  an  air  of  completeness,  and  a 
home  look,  which  many  people  know  how 
to  appreciate.  To  produce  this  effect, 
the  subjects  of  the  pictures  must  be  such 
as  we  caii,  truly  sympathize  with,  some- 
thing to  awaken  our  admiration,  rever- 
ence, or  love.  All  the  feelings  of  our  na- 
ture may  be  illustrated  by  pictures. 
There  are  some  which  we  seem  to  make 
bosom  companions  of;  others  have  a  mo- 
ral effect,  and  at  times  prevent  our  going 
astray  by  their  silent  monitions.  It  is, 
therefore,  worth  while  to  take  pains  and 
choose  good  subjects,  whether  in  engrav- 
ings or  paintings,  and  to  frame  and  hang 
them  suitably  when  chosen.  Gilt  frames 
are  most  suitable  for  rather  dark  paint- 
ings, and  on  a  deep  colored  wall ;  while 
prints  look  well  in  a  frame  of  composition, 
oak,  rose-wood,  or  bird's-eye  maple,  fin- 
ished with  a  gilt  moulding.  Care  should 
be  taken  to  hang  them  in  a  proper  light, 
so  as  best  to  bring  out  all  the  effects  of 
the  pictures,  and  to  place  them  so  that 
the  light  shall  fall  from  the  same  side  as 
represented  by  the  painter.  In  picture 
galleries  and  great  houses,  brass  rods  are 
fixed  all  around  the  room  close  to  the 
ceiling,  from  which  the  pictures  are  hung, 
but  in  small  rooms  it  is  often  best  not  to 
show  the  lines  or  wires  by  which  the  pic- 
tures hang.  This  is  done  by  nailing  a 
strong  cord  across  the  back,  about  two 
inches  below  the  top,  and  then  suspend- 
ing it  from  two  nails  standing  out  but 
a  little  way  from  the  wall.  When  there 
are  several  pictures  in  a  room,  the  ordi- 
nary rule  is,  to  have  either  the  upper  or 
lower  edge  of  the  framep  in  a  line,  on 
whichever  side  they  may  be  hung. 


22 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


For  bed-room  furniture,  mahogany, 
maple-wood,  and  oak,  are  the  best  and 
prettiest ;  there  are  also  very  serviceable, 
well-polished,  stained  wood  imitations  of 
all  these  three ;  and  there  are,  too,  very 
common  and  trumpery  imitations,  which 
turn  shabby  in  a  few  months,  and  are 
generally  badly  put  together,  and  do  no 
service ;  two  good  chairs  are  worth  a  do- 
zen of  such  rubbish. 

As  a  general  rule  we  should  advise 
avoidance  of  all  cheap,  showy  furnishing 
establishments :  likewise,  unless  you  are 
wealthy,  of  all  fashionable  upholsterers. 
Patronize  good,  old-established  houses  of 
business. 

Never  buy  second-hand  bedsteads,  bed- 
ding, or  hangings,  unless  you  are  well 
convinced  that  no  more  than  you  bargain 
for  is  included  in  the  purchase. 

Iron  and  brass  bedsteads,  which  can 
now  be  had  of  every  size,  form,  and  price, 
are  far  preferable,  both  as  regards  health, 
cleanliness,  and  lightness,  to  any  others. 

It  can  scarcely  be  necessary  to  repeat 
how  injurious  to  health  are  very  small 
bed-rooms,  and  the  same  rule  will  apply 
to  curtains  which  prevent  the  change  of 
air,  compelling  us  to  breathe  over  again 
a  portion  of  the  air  we  have  expired. 
The  curtains  should  never  enclose  the 
bed.  In  low  chambers,  the  bed  should 
be  near  the  floor,  and  the  best  place  for 
it  is  at  the  middle  of  the  side  of  the  room, 
not  touching  the  wall. 

Chintz  or  dimity  are  better  for  bed- 
furniture  than  damask,  moreen,  or  any 
fabric  containing  wool ;  they  harbor  less 
dust  and  are  less  liable  to  hide  vermin. 

Three-ply  carpets  are  best  adapted  for 
bed-rooms.  Never  place  carpet  under  a 
bed,  or  you  provide  a  resting-place  for 
all  the  dust  and  flock  which  daily  falls 
from  the  mattresses,  and  establish  a  nice 
hot-bed  for  fleas.  Let  the  carpet  be  made 
in  about  three  pieces,  in  order  that  it 
may  be  frequently  taken  up  and  beaten 
or  shaken,  and  the  floor  scrubbed  clean. 


Soft  feather  beds  cause  an  undue 
warmth  that  weakens  the  action  of  the 
skin,  and  makes  one  susceptible  to  cold. 
A  well  stuffed  feather  bed,  or  a  mattress, 
should  be  used.  Good  mattresses  of 
wool,  and  wool  and  horsehair,  iron  bed- 
steads, and  as  little  bed-furniture,  cur- 
tains, &c.,  as  may  be,  with  a  light  quilt, 
are  the  best  preventives  against  rising 
languid,  inert,  and  unfit  in  the  morning 
for  the  duties  of  the  day.  The  covering 
should  be  light.  A  wide  bed  affords  the 
luxury  Franklin  recommends,  of  moving 
from  side  to  side,  and  a  bed  should  have 
but  one  occupant. 

Bed-room  and  dressing-room  chairs 
should  be  light.  Couches,  tables,  dress- 
ing-glasses, wash-stands,  &c.,  are  necessa- 
ry articles,  and  the  couches  may  be  made 
of  cheap  materials,  covered  with  chintz 
or  brown  holland.  Bureaus  and  ward- 
robes will  not  be  forgotten.  Fireguards 
of  painted  wire  are  a  security  against 
accidents.  Of  the  smaller  articles  in  use 
a  host  might  be  enumerated  j  but  every- 
day need  will  suggest  them. 

Never  crowd  a  bed-room  with  furni- 
ture ;  have  that  which  is  really  useful 
and  requisite,  and  no  more  ;  and  in  fitting 
it  up,  always  remember  that  illness  often 
comes  when  we  least  expect  it,  and  take 
care  that  your  room  shall  possess  such 
articles  as  will  then  be  needful  for  com- 
fort and  ease. 

A  dining-room  requires  little  furniture, 
but  that  little  should  be  good  and  hand- 
some, and  of  mahogany. 

About  furnishing  drawing-rooms  we 
can  give  no  directions,  so  much  depends 
upon  taste.  We  would  only  reiterate 
our  warning  to  beware  of  showy,  veneer- 
ed, vamped-up  furniture,  or,  when  the 
room  has  had  a  fire  in  it  some  dozen  times, 
you  will  be  startled  occasionally  by  re- 
ports as  if  small  cannon  were  discharged, 
and  on  rising  to  investigate  such  alarm- 
ing noises,  you  will  find,  perhaps  a  crack 
across  one  door  of  the  beautiful  rosewood 


KITCHEN   FUKNITTTKE. 


23 


cabinet,  or  a  gaping  chasm  in  that  lovely 
centre  table,  or  a  piece  of  carved  work 
flown  off  the  card  table,  showing  only 
pine  beneath ! 

Here,  again,  a  little  furniture  tastefully 
arranged  is  far  better  than  a  crowd  of 
articles ;  besides,  in  one's  course  through 
life,  furniture  accumulates  gradually,  and 
if  it  is  necessary  to  sell  one  thing  in  order 
to  make  way  for  another,  that  is  a  very 
losing  business. 

We  now  come  to  the  kitchens,  where 
the  wants  are  multifarious ;  for  here  must 
be  accumulated  means  of  feeding,  and 
cleaning,  and  keeping  in  order  the  whole 
house.  Of  course  we  can  give  no  detailed 
account  of  what  will  be  required,  as  all 
depends  upon  the  extent  and  style  of  the 
household ;  all  we  can  do,  therefore,  is  to 
make  one  or  two  general  remarks  on  the 
durability  of  different  wares. 

As  few  copper  cooking  utensils  as  pos- 
sible should  be  had,  and  those  few  should 
be  most  thoroughly  tinned  in  the  inside, 
and  always  carefully  cleaned  and  dried  be- 
fore being  put  away.  We  prefer  block  tin 
to  anything  else  for  saucepans,  pots,  and 
kettles  generally.  Iron  does  not  so  quick- 
ly or  plainly  tell  any  tale  of  dirt  or  neg- 
lect ;  cast  iron  is  very  brittle,  and  cannot 
be  repaired  when  broken ;  and  copper  is 
likely  to  harbor  verdigris.  A  good  dou- 
ble block  tin  saucepan  should  always 
have  the  cover,  the  handle,  and  the  back, 
kept  bright  as  silver ;  and  the  top,  spout, 
front,  and  handle  of  the  kettle,  should 
also  be  kept  bright ;  for  besides  that  a 
polished  surface  maintains  heat  better 
than  an  uneven,  blackened  one,  it  looks 
wonderfully  better ;  and  if  the  smoke  is 
never  allowed  to  gather  on  these  parts, 
it  is  easy  to  keep  the  utensils  as  bright 
as  they  were  at  first. 

For  stewpans,  iron  tinned  on  the  inside 
is  most  useful. 

The  ancients  seem  to  have  used  lamps 
of  various  forms ;  an  improvement  on 
torches,  certainly,  but  a  more  simple  con- 


trivance than  candles,  which  in  the  twelfth 
century  and  afterwards,  came  into  use 
throughout  Europe.  Wax,  spermaceti, 
and  tallow,  with  different  kinds  of  oil  for 
lamps  of  an  improved  fashion,  are  still  in 
use.  Spirit  gas  and  camphene  are  cleanly 
substitutes,  but  extremely  dangerous. 
The  lighting  of  apartments  by  inflamma- 
ble gas  is  one  of  the  most  useful  results 
of  the  investigations  of  modern  science. 
It  is  said  that  Murdoch,  an  engineer,  was 
the  first  to  make  this  discovery  available 
on  an  extensive  scale.  He  commenced 
his  experiments  in  1792. 

Candlesticks  for  common  house  or 
kitchen  use  should  be  of  tin  or  brass,  and 
large  enough  to  save  grease  spots.  There 
is  no  wear  in  japan. 

Wooden  bowls  for  washing  glass  and 
china,  and  block  tin  or  zinc  hand  bowls 
will  be  found  most  serviceable. 

All  utensils  for  the  conveyance  of  wa- 
ter about  a  house  should  be  of  metal,  as 
water-cans  of  different  sizes,  hot-water 
ewers  with  covers,  shaving  mugs,  &c.,  as 
thereby  much  breakage  will  be  saved,  and 
these,  if  bought  good  at  first,  will,  with 
ordinary  care,  last  a  very  long  time.  The 
same  remark  applies  to  foot-baths.  Very 
pretty  toilet  sets  for  the  wash-stand  are 
also  now  made  in  zinc,  and  beautifully 
painted  or  japanned. 

Sarcophagus  and  other  extraordinarily 
shaped  coal-scuttles,  are  to  be  avoided  as 
most  troublesome  and  awkward  affairs, 
out  of  which  it  is  next  to  impossible  to 
extract  coal  conveniently. 

Soyer  gives  the  following  list  of  kitchen 
articles  for  a  family  of  six. 

Eight  copper  stewpans,  two  larger  ones, 
holding  one  gallon  and  a  half,  and  the 
next  one  gallon,  the  others  smaller  by 
degrees  to  one  pint ;  one  oval  fish-kettle, 
holding  about  one  gallon  and  a  half;  one 
middle-sized  braising-pan ;  one  preserv- 
ing-pan; one  round  bowl  for  beating 
whites  of  eggs  ;  two  saute-pans ;  one  ome- 
lette-pan;  one  frying-pan ;  one  bain- ma- 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


rie ;  six  saucepans  for  sauces ;  one  middle- 
sized  tin  pie-mould ;  two  tin  jelly-moulds ; 
one  tin  flanc  mould  for  fruit ;  one  freezing- 
pot,  with  every  requisite;  two  baking- 
sheets  ;  one  gridiron ;  one  small  salaman- 
der; one  colander-spoon ;  one  bottle-jack ; 
two  spits ;  one  dripping-pan ;  one  screen ; 
one  sugar-pan;  two  soup-ladles;  eight 
copper  spoons,  two  of  them  colanders ; 
two  wire  baskets ;  one  wire  sieve ;  two 
hair  sieves;  twenty-four  tartlet-pans; 
two  tammies;  one  jelly-bag;  twelve 
wooden  spoons ;  two  paste-brushes ;  one 
pair  of  scissors;  two  kitchen  knives; 
six  larding-needles ;  one  packing-needle ; 
one  box  of  vegetable-cutters ;  one  box  of 
paste-cutters ;  one  meat-saw ;  one  cutlet 
chopper;  one  meat  chopper;  six  meat- 
hooks,  tinned;  one  rolling-pin ;  eight 
kitchen  basins ;  six  china  pie-dishes ;  six 
earthen  bowls  for  soups  and  gravies ;  four 
kitchen  table-cloths;  eighteen  rubbers; 
twelve  fish-napkins ;  six  pudding-cloths ; 
four  round  towels. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

WITH  regard  to  all  those  articles 
which  fall  under  the  general  denomina- 
tion of  "plate,"  we  should  advise  that 
all  imitations  be  avoided;  let  those 
who  cannot  afford  silver  be  content  to 
use  simple  metal,  which  does  not  pretend 
to  be  more  than  it  really  is.  All  the  im- 
itations of  silver  will,  even  with  the  ut- 
most care,  betray  themselves  in  a  very 
short  time,  and  have  a  would-be-genteel- 
if-I-could  sort  of  air,  which  is  ten  thou- 
sand times  more  ridiculous  than  the  plain- 
est of  all  materials ;  besides,  the  money 
they  cost  would  purchase  a  few  real  arti- 
cles, which  are  always  worth  their  weight 
in  silver,  whereas  the  imitations  have 
only  a  nominal  value,  and  lose  even  that 
as  they  become  discolored  and  dull. 

Metal  tea  and  coffee  pots  may  be  had 
very  good,  and  in  handsome  patterns, 


and  are  far  more  durable  than  china, 
drawing  better,  and  retaining  heat  longer. 
The  following  is  a  list  of  the  usual  arti- 
cles in  silver  required  to  furnish  the 
table. 

Dishes  and  covers.  Asparagus  tongs. 

Table  knives  and  forks.  Cheese  scoops. 

Dessert  knives  and  forks.  Knife  rests. 

Table  spoons.  Nut  crackers. 

Dessert  spoons.  Grape  scissors. 

Gravy  spoons.  Tea  urns. 

Soup  ladles.  Coffee  urns. 

Sauce  ladles.  Tea  pots. 

Salt  spoons,  with  gilt  Coffee  filterers. 

bowls.  Sugar  basin. 

Fish  slice.  Cream  ewers.  ' 

Trays  and  waiters.  Sugar  tongs. 

Bread  baskets.  Tea  spoons. 

Cake  baskets.  Toast  racks. 

Decanter  stands.  Butter  coolers. 

Dt  canter  labels.  Snuffer  trays. 

Liqueur  and  bottle  stands.  Snuffers. 

Cruet  frames.  Candlesticks. 
Egg  frames. 

Cheap  cutlery  is  mistaken  economy. 
Good  knives  and  forks  will,  with  ordina- 
ry care,  last  for  years ;  common  ones  have 
no  wear  in  them,  and  never  can  be  made 
to  cut  well. 

Crockery,  china,  and  glass,  we  need 
say  little  about,  for  they  may  be  had  at 
all  prices  and  of  all  qualities.  The  mould 
ed  or  cast  glass  looks  as  well  as  cut  glass, 
if  not  placed  in  contrast  with  it,  and 
wears  as  long,  and  costs  considerably  less. 
For  dishes,  pitchers,  butter-coolers,  &c., 
we  should  always  use  it ;  decanters,  wine- 
glasses, and  tumblers,  do  not  look  so  well 
in  it. 

As  regards  ornamental  china,  or  glass, 
or  what  not,  little  can  be  said,  these  things 
being  so  much  matters  of  taste ;  but  it  is 
better  to  have  but  one,  and  that  one  real- 
ly handsome  and  good,  than  a  crowd  of 
cheap,  showy  trifles ;  besides,  these  are 
things  which  gradually  accumulate,  and 
therefore  it  is  always  better  to  devote 
the  money  in  hand  to  necessary  articles, 
and  leave  the  more  ornamental  ones  for 
after  consideration.  A  good  clock  for 
the  kitchen,  and  a  handsome  one  for  the 
drawing-room,  are  useful  and  necessary 
things,  especially  the  former. 

In  household  linen,  again,  it  is  false 


LINEN   AND   PLATE. 


25 


economy  to  buy  common  or  cheap  mate- 
rials. For  sheets,  linen,  cotton,  and 
Swiss  twilled  calico  are  used  ;  these  sub- 
stances are  now  woven  wide  enough  to 
render  a  seam  unnecessary,  and  all  we 
have  to  do  is  to  measure  the  width  of 
the  beds  and  allow  an  extra  half  yard ; 
the  ordinary  length  of  a  sheet  is  three 
yards  and  a  half.  The  pillow  cases  must 
be  of  the  same  material  as  the  sheets. 
Marseilles  quilts  are  too  heavy  to  be 
beneficial  to  health.  Any  industrious 
housewife  may  knit  very  serviceable  and 
pretty  counterpanes  in  squares  or  shell- 
shaped  pieces,  during  those  periods  when 
she  is  chatting,  or  between  the  lights,  or 
at  hours  when  she  would  otherwise  most 
probably  be  doing  nothing.  It  is  for 
such  useful  purposes  as  these  we  value 
knitting,  crochet,  &c.,  for  they  can  be 
made  the  means  of  economy  and  useful- 
ness, instead  of  being,  as  they  too  often 
are,  employed  on  useless  expensive  trifles. 

The  most  durable  sort  of  linen  for 
sheeting  is  the  Russian,  German,  or  Irish 
fabric,  a  good  stock  of  which  should  be 
laid  in  to  avoid  the  necessity  of  frequent 
or  irregular  washing. 

An  inventory  of  furniture  is  given  by 
Soyer  as  follows  : — 

Twelve  pairs  of  sheets ;  ten  ditto  pil- 
low-cases; three  dozen  napkins;  two 
dozen  and  a  half  various-sized  table- 
cloths, including  breakfast,  dinner,  &c. ; 
six  servants'  table-cloths;  three  dozen 
towels;  six  round  towels;  three  dozen 
kitchen  rubbers ;  two  dozen  napkins  for 
fish,  vegetables,  and  fruits ;  six  pudding- 
cloths  ;  two  dozen  damask  d'oylies ;  one 
dozen  Berlin  wool  ditto.  I  also  have 
occasionally  in  the  wash  the  cover  of 
the  carpet,  the  anti-macassars,  which  I 
have  knitted  at  my  leisure,  and  the 
netted  window  curtains.  Of  glass  and 
china,  I  have  the  following;  they  are 
counted  every  month,  and  the  broken 
ones  replaced : — three  dozen  ^ ine-glass- 


es ;  two  dozen  champagne  ditto:  two  doz- 
en claret  ditto ;  three  dozen  goblets ;  six 
water  caraffes ;  six  decanters ;  one  liqueur- 
stand  ;  twelve  liqueur-glasses ;  two  glass 
pitchers;  one  celery-glass;  one  trifle- 
bowl  ;  eight  dessert-dishes.  .  China :  one 
full  dinner  service  ;  one  common  set  for 
kitchen ;  one  common  tea  service  for 
kitchen ;  one  good  tea  service ;  one  break- 
fast service ;  one  good  dessert  service. 

The  following  is  my  list  of  plate: — 
three  dozen  prongs;  two  ditto  table- 
spoons; one  and  a  half  ditto  dessert- 
spoons; one  and  a  half  ditto  dessert- 
forks  ;  two  ditto  tea-spoons ;  six  salt- 
spoons;  one  cheese-knife;  four  butter- 
knives  ;  one  asparagus-tongs ;  two  sugar- 
tongs  ;  two  soup-ladles ;  four  sauce-la- 
dles; two  gravy-spoons;  two  sugar-la- 
dles; two  salvers;  one  bread-basket; 
four  candlesticks ;  one  hot-water  dish  for 
haunch  of  mutton. 

Table-cloths,  tray-cloths,  and  dinner 
napkins  will  of  course  come  under  the 
category  of  "  linen,"  and  can  be  obtained  at 
very  reasonable  prices  compared  with  what 
they  were  twenty  years  since.  Towels, 
too,  are  included  in  this  list.  In  the  case 
of  chamber  towels,  again,  comes  diversity 
of  opinion  ;  some  preferring  a  soft,  others 
a  hard,  some  a  rough,  and  some  a  smooth 
towel ;  damask  and  diaper  are  not  soft 
enough  for  some  delicate  skins.  For  our 
own  part  we  like  towels  which  administer 
a  certain  amount  of  friction  to  the  skin, 
and  all  medical  men  agree  that  this  is  re- 
quisite to  health.  For  the  kitchen,  round 
towels,  tea-cloths,  and  glass-cloths,  will 
be  required,  as  well  as  dusters,  pudding- 
cloths,  knife-cloths,  house-cloths,  and 
flannels  for  cleaning.  These  will  have  to 
be  purchased  at  the  same  time  by  young 
housekeepers  newly  furnishing,  who 
"  have  no  rags — poor  things,"  and  there- 
fore may  as  well  be  mentioned  here. 
Old  sheets  make  good  glass  cloths;  old 
tabfe-cloths  make  nice  soft  towels;  all 


26 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


dresses  of  cotton,  or  old  dress-linings,  will 
serve  for  dusters,  and  old  blankets  for 
house-flannels. 

There  are  also  needed  toilet-covers  for 
chamber  tables,  and  chests  of  drawers, 
&c.,  carpet  qovers,  muslin  for  chamber 
window-curtains,  muslin  for  drapery  for 
the  toilet-table,  coarse  sheeting  for  dust- 
ing-sheets to  cover  the  beds  or  drawing- 
room  furniture  when  sweeping  and  clean- 
ing ;  a  yet  coarser  sheet  to  lay  down  in 
front  of  the  stoves  when  they  are  being 
cleaned;  chamois  leathers  for  cleaning 
the  plate,  brass,  steel,  and  windows  ;  and 
bags  for  the  best  brooms. 

Then  we  come  to  brushes,  and  their 
name  is  legion.  Oh,  this  furnishing  a 
house  is  a  serious  affair !  a  carpet-broom. 
a  short-handled  one  for  the  stair  carpets, 
a  hair-broom  for  the  bed-rooms,  and 
another  for  the  passages  and  kitchens; 
feather-brushes,  dusting-brushes,  stove- 
brushes,  hearth-brushes,  shoe-brushes, 
plate-brushes,  paste-brushes,  clothes- 
brushes,  a  hat-brush,  and  a  table-brush 
to  remove  the  crumbs  from  the  table- 
cloth, are  all  needed ;  and  these  should 
be  bought  at  a  good  warehouse,  and  of 
good  quality,  if  we  would  have  them  do 
us  service,  and  not  fall  to  pieces,  or  lose 
their  hair,  as  soon  as  they  are  fairly 
brought  into  use. 

There  are  many  items  yet  unmention- 
ed,  but  it  will  not  be  requisite  for  us  to 
waste  our  time,  or  that  of  our  readers,  by 
enumerating  them  all  seriatim ;  we  will 
therefore  proceed  to  other  matters. 


CHAPTER  V 

SUPPOSING  now  that  we  have  our 
house,  and  it  is  furnished,  the  next 
thing  to  determine  is  how  many  ser- 
vants can  be  afforded.  Must  we  be  con- 
tent with  one,  a  "general  house-ser- 
vant;" or  can  we  afford  a  cook  and 


housemaid,  or  even  aspire  to  the  gen- 
tility of  a  man-servant  or  a  butler  ? 

The  expenses  must  be  determined  by 
the  sum  which  can,  without  incurring 
debts  or  living  too  closely  up  to  one's  in- 
come, be  devoted  to  "  housekeeping,"  un- 
der which  head  we  include  rent,  taxes, 
wages,  and  every  outlay  appertaining  to 
the  house.  Now,  in  reckoning  the  ex- 
penses of  a  servant,  the  question  of  wages 
is  not  the  only  one  to  be  considered; 
there  is  the  board  and  washing;  and 
$100,  exclusive  of  wages,  is  the  lowest 
at  which  the  keep  of  each  servant  can  be 
estimated. 

In  hiring  servants  always  be  particular 
in  inquiring  their  character,  and,  if  possi- 
ble, learn  something  of  the  people  with 
whom  they  have  lived;  let  all  stipula- 
tions as  to  wages,  extras,  holidays,  and 
such  matters,  be  clearly  specified  and 
rightly  understood. 

The  greatest  trouble  in  housekeeping 
is  the  difficulty  of  procuring  and  retaining 
good  servants.  In  some  parts  of  the 
world  this  difficulty  is  not  realized; 
their  servants  having  been  trained  for 
the  labor  allotted  to  them,  and  being 
contented  and  happy  in  their  condition 
without  aspirations  after  change.  But 
in  America,  both  in  the  city  and 
country,  the  case  is  different ;  too  often 
men  and  women  look  upon  service 
as  degrading  to  them,  and  will  prefer 
any  hardship  or  privation  to  engaging 
in  it  as  a  business.  Those  who  do  so  for 
a  time,  are  usually  tormented  with  jealous 
fears  that  their  dignity  will  be  infringed 
on,  or  are  found  neither  qualified  nor 
trustworthy.  Housekeepers  are  mainly 
dependent  on  the  Irish  and  German  emi- 
grants, who  as  a  rule  are  utterly  ignorant 
of  household  service,  and  have  to  be 
taught  every  thing ;  often  receiving  wages 
for  months  Itefore  they  begin  to  make 
themselves  useful.  By  the  time  they 
can  be  trusted  to  do  the  work,  they  are 
corrupted  by  intercourse  with  other  ser- 


SERVANTS. 


27 


vants,  or  persons  who  prompt  them  to 
make  exactions  on  your  time  for  visiting 
their  numerous  relatives  from  the  old 
country,  as  well  as  to  fill  your  kitchen 
with  strangers,  till  the  annoyance  be- 
comes intolerable.  A  complaint  on  this 
score  from  the  employers  is  followed  by 
an  outbreak  of  insolence,  and  the  abrupt 
departure  of  the  servant  you  have  taken 
such  pains  to  teach ; — and  so  unusual  is 
it  to  find  one  who  knows  any  thing — 
that  she  will  readily  get  another  place, 
perhaps  with  one  of  your  neighbors  who 
has  envied  you  her  possession. 

An  English  lady  gave  this  account  of 
the  progress  of  a  favorite — "  The  first 
year  she  was  a  good  servant ;  the  second 
an  indulgent  mistress  j  the  third  an  in- 
tolerable tyrant." 

A  good  maxim  is  to  select  servants  not 
younger  than  thirty ;  they  are,  as  a  rule, 
less  fond  of  change,  and  better  satisfied 
when  really  comfortable.  But  change  is 
the  order  of  things  in  the  United  States. 
Kespecting  servants,  there  are  a  few 
things  which  cannot  be  too  strongly 
urged ;  one  is,  never  to  retain  a  cook  who 
is  not  fond  of  her  occupation ;  for  unless 
she  take  pleasure  in  her  art,  she  cannot 
be  depended  upon  for  accuracy  in  the 
preparation  of  dishes  with  which  she  is 
well  acquainted,  and  will  not  easily  be 
induced  to  acquire  any  thing  new.  She 
also  must  possess  a  natural  regard  for 
cleanliness,  or  all  the  pains  in  the  world 
will  never  render  her  cleanly:  where 
dirty  habits  are  manifested,  dismissal 
should  follow,  for  in  almost  every  in- 
stance they  will  be  found  incurable. 
Another  point  of  main  importance  is  her 
temper  ;  for  if  that  be  not  good,  she  will 
be  disinclined  to  receive  instructions 
and,  if  found  fault  with,  may,  out  of 
pique,  spoil  a  dinner;  whereas  a  good- 
humored,  intelligent  servant,  when  made 
acquainted  with  the  habits  of  the  house 
and  equal  to  her  common  duties,  will 
hardly  fail  of  success  when  called  upon 


by  her  mistress  to  try  any  of  those  re- 
ceipts which  she  has  not  already  used. 

The  low  character  of  servants  heard  of 
,t  common  intelligence  offices  has  caused 
such  places  to  be  held  in  small  esteem ; 
br  their  recommendations  can  in  no  case 
je  depended  on.  There  are  institutions 
in  Great  Britain  which  have  for  their 
object  the  security  of  housekeepers  from 
the  evils  of  disreputable  and  dishonest 
nmates.  The  officials  are  so  minute  in 
their  inquiries  into  character,  as  to  pre- 
clude the  necessity  of  those  who  hire 
from  their  office  taking  any  trouble 
themselves  in  the  business.  Servants 
whose  characters  will  not  bear  the  strict- 
est investigation  will  scarcely  apply  to 
such  institutions.  They  are  sorely  need- 
ed in  this  country. 

It  may  be  curious  to  see  the  list  of  ser- 
vants which  form  the  household  of  a 
British  nobleman  of  high  rank,  or  a 
wealthy  citizen,  who  keeps  from  twenty 
to  thirty  domestics. 

Women. 

Housekeeper. 

A  lady's  maid  for  each  grown  lady  of  the  family. 

Cook. 
Upper  housemaid. 

Laundry  maid. 

Under  housemaid. 

Under  laundry  maid. 

Still  room  maid. 

Kitchen  maid. 

Scullion. 
(To  this  establishment  that  of  the  nursery  is  added.) 

Men. 

House  steward. 

Groom  of  the  chamber. 

Valet  to  each  gentleman  in  the  family. 

Man  cook. 

Butler. 

Gentleman's  footman. 

Lady's  footman. 

Under  butler. 

Gentleman's  coachman. 

Lady's  coachman. 

Couriers.    Outriders. 

Grooms,  in  number  according  to  the  stud. 

Under  servants.    Errand  boys. 

Steward's  boy. 

In  the  United  States  so  many  servants 
are  rarely  kept  in  one  family,  even  among 
millionnaires,  or  in  the  Southern  States  j 


28 


THE  PRACTICAL  HOUSEKEEPER. 


where  formerly  it  was  customary  for  each 
member  of  the  family  to  have  a  separate 
attendant.  An  extensive  establishment 
would  perhaps  number  a  coachman, 
groom,  porter,  footman,  gardener,  butler, 
and  perhaps  a  valet  and  French  cook ; 
the  female  servants  consisting  of  a  house- 
keeper, cook,  scullion,  lady's  maid,  cham- 
bermaid, laundrymaid,  nurse,  and  one  or 
more  maids-of-all-work.  Indeed  the 
most  wealthy  families  keep  less  than 
half  this  number;  and  the  average  not 
more  than  three  women  and  one  man- 
servant. Those  of  slender  income  are 
content  with  .one  for  "general  house- 
work." 

In  all  large  estabh'shments  in  England 
the  men  and  women  servants,  in  the  in- 
tervals of  their  employments,  are  never 
allowed  to  sit  in  the  same  room,  but 
have  their  separate  places  of  resort,  as- 
sembling together  only  at  dinner  and 
supper.  It  is  the  duty  of  the  steward 
and  housekeeper  to  see  this  regulation 
observed. 

In  servants  generally  we  look  for  the 
essential  qualities  of  integrity,  sobriety, 
cleanliness,  and  general  propriety  in 
manner,  with  knowledge  of  their  duties 
in  the  departments  they  profess  to  un- 
derstand. A  glance  at  some  reprehen- 
sible practices  among  them  may  be  use- 
ful, as  every  instance  of  pilfering  and 
trickery  accumulates  odium  on  the  whole 
class.  One  of  the  chief  anxieties  of 
housekeeping  is  the  apprehension  of  the 
dishonesty  of  those  who  are  under  our 
roof  and  receiving  bread  from  our  hands ; 
and  suspicion,  for  which  there  is  often 
just  cause,  injures  both  the  employer 
and  the  employed.  Cooks  have  been 
found  to  dispose  of  provisions  in  other 
ways  than  for  the  use  of  the  family 
they  serve.  Presents  are  someti.-i.es 
demanded  by  servants  from  the  trades- 
people dealt  with  by  the  master.  The 
so-called  "  honor,"  which  prevents  a  ser- 
vant from  exposing  the  frauds  and  mis- 


conduct going  on  among  others,  is  but 
another  name  for  deception  and  dishon- 
esty. The  servant  who  knows  of  frauds 
and  is  silent,  becomes  an  accomplice. 

Though  it  is  very  disagreeable  to  sus-. 
pect  any  one's  honesty,  it  is  yet  prudent 
to  weigh  meat,  sugar,  &c.,  when  brought 
in,  and  to  -compare  the  weight  with  the 
charge.  Scales  should  be  placed  in  the 
kitchen,  near  the  door  used  by  the 
tradespeople.  The  knowledge  of  such 
things  as  weights  and  scales  being  in 
use,  will  operate  as  a  check  to  any  petty 
fraud  which  might  otherwise  be  contem- 
plated. 

In  large  establishments  abroad  the 
servants  have  sometimes  an  allowance  of 
food,  or  are  kept  on  board  wages.  The 
former  system  prevails  on  plantations  at 
the  South,  among  field  laborers  only; 
the  servants  in  families,  as  in  the  North- 
ern States,  taking  their  meals  immediate- 
ly after,  and  on  the  remains  of  the  family 
meals. 

The  perquisites  of  servants  are,  in 
many  cases,  so  many  encroachments  on 
the  property  of  their  employers,  who  ta- 
citly allow,  while  they  in  principle  con- 
demn the  practice.  There  is  no  doubt 
that  perquisites  tend  to  corrupt  the 
morals  of  domestics,  placing  their  own 
interests  in  opposition  to  those  of  others, 
and  offering  temptation  against  which 
their  integrity  is  not  always  proof. 
Among  these  objectionable  customs,  one 
that  particularly  calls  for  attention  as  an 
odious  kind  of  taxation,  is  the  practice  of 
servants  receiving  vails,  or  presents  in 
money,  from  visitors.  It  is  a  species  of 
bribery  for  services  which  ought  to  be 
performed  without  it,  and  tends  to  make 
servants  less  attentive  to  those  who  can- 
not give  them  great  pecuniary  rewards. 
This  custom  has  grown  into  disuse  in 
England,  and  most  highly  respectable 
families  make  it  a  condition  in  hiring 
their  servants,  that  they  shall  accept  no 
such  gifts,  but  when  they  are  offered 


PRESENTS   TO    SERVANTS. 


shall  inform  the  visitor  that  it  is  con- 
trary to  the  rule  of  the  house  to  take 
them.  It  was  formerly  so  usual  in  ho- 
tels in  the  United  States  for  the  attend- 
ants to  expect  gifts  from  the  guests, 
that  one  could  not  obtain  any  service 
without  it.  I  knew  a  party  of  travellers 
visiting  Niagara,  to  leave  the  dining- 
room,  unable  to  obtain  any  thing  to  eat, 
the  waiters  not  attending  to  them.  One 
who  had  been  longer  in  the  house,  in- 
formed them  they  would  not  be  served 
unless  each  person  gave  fifty  cents  to 
one  of  the  waiters — who,  in  fact,  were 
paid  no  wages,  but  allowed  to  extract  all 
they  could  from  travellers !  This  is 
downright  swindling  on  the  part  of  hotel 
proprietors,  and  no  respectable  landlord 
now  permits  such  impositions.  In  all 
the  first-class  hotels  in  our  cities,  per- 
sons should  be  particularly  requested  to 
give  no  fees  to  servants.  The  charges 
per  day  at  hotels  certainly  ought  to 
cover  ordinary  attendance ;  extra  ser- 
vices may  be  paid'  for.  But  as  the  cus- 
tom still  prevails  more  or  less  among 
many  travellers  to  give  gratuities  to  ser- 
vants, proprietors  of  public  houses  ought 
to  be  the  more  resolute  in  abolishing  a 
practice  tending  to  produce  murmuring, 
discontent,  and  neglect  of  duties  among 
their  domestics.  The  caution  should  be 
inserted  among  the  printed  rules  of  the 
establishment,  and  the  servant  discharged 
who  is  known  to  receive  any  thing  in 
this  way. 

Still  more  onerous  and  odious  is  the 
custom  that  inflicts  a  tax  upon  visitors 
in  private  families,  in  violation  of  the 
sacred  obligations  of  hospitality.  Such 
a  burden  is  this  felt  to  be,  that  many 
are  compelled  to  refuse  invitations  to  the 
houses  of  their  friends  on  account  of  it. 
A  lady  friend  of  ours  informed  us  that 
the  expense  of  a  short  visit  to  one  of  her 
neighbors  was  made,  by  this  necessity, 
to  exceed  what  she  would  have  paid  at 
the  highest  rate  of  hotel  fare.  We  found 


this  the  case  on  spending  a  day  or  so  in  a 
very  large  establishment  at  the  invitation 
of  the  owner ;  each  servant  on  the  premi- 
ses expecting  gratuities.  They  learn,  of 
course,  to  estimate  the  worth  or  standing 
of  a  guest  by  the  amount  bestowed  on 
them,  and  frequently  to  treat  with  inso- 
lence or  contempt  those  who  cannot  give 
so  much.  A  '-help"  in  New  Jersey, 
was  highly  indignant  at  receiving  a  pres- 
ent of  a  mousseline  de  laine  dress  instead 
of  a  silk  one,  and  declared  she  would  not 
have  it  made  up.  We  knew  of  another 
lady  who  efnptied  her  purse  to  give  five 
dollars  each  to  several  flaunting  girls  in 
the  house  where  she  was  staying  ;  though 
she  was  obliged  to  deny  herself  many 
things  for  want  of  the  money.  "  If  you 
do  not  give  them  something  very  elegant, 
they  will  make  fun  of  you  ;  nothing  sim- 
ple will  please  them  ; "  said  another  lady 
when  consulted  on  the  subject.  What  a 
motive  for  liberality ! 

There  are  very  few  who  have  moral 
courage  enough  to  be  independent  in  such 
things,  even  though  their  charities  have 
to  be  stinted  in  consequence ;  especially 
when  it  is  known  that  the  mistress  fre 
quently  asks  her  servants  what  they  re- 
ceived from  her  guests,  and  even  draws 
conclusions  founded  on  their  information ! 
So  at  the  risk  of  inconvenience  or  impov- 
erishment, the  tax  must  be  paid ;  though 
as  a  rule  it  is  always  paid  with  secret 
dissatisfaction.  What  an  insult  to  the 
name  of  hospitality  is  this ! 

The  prevailing  motive  for  this  kind  of 
liberality  is  not  the  charity  which  delight- 
eth  in  giving — but  a  selfish  fear  of  being 
thought  penurious  by  one's  friends,  or  of 
being  ridiculed  by  saucy  servants.  We 
do  not  remember  a  single  instance  in 
which  the  custom,  considered  imperative, 
when  mentioned  at  all,  has  not  been  men- 
tioned with  condemnation.  It  should  be 
utterly  and  for  ever  abolished.  The  mis- 
tress, in  hiring  a  domestic,  should  make 
known  her  invariable  rule  that  such 


30 


THE   PEACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


things  are  not  to  be  allowed,  and  should 
let  it  be  known  among  all  her  friends. 

We  do  not  object  to  the  largest  kind 
of  liberality  in  giving.  The  poor  and 
needy  have  claims  that  meet  us  at  every 
turn ;  and  the  most  rigid  self-denial  to 
satisfy  their  just  demands,  is  commenda- 
ble. It  is  an  excellent  rule — "My  super- 
fluity must  give  way  to  my  neighbor's 
convenience ;  my  convenience  to  his  ne- 
cessity ;  my  necessity  to  his  destitution." 
In  instances  where  our  regard  is  attract- 
ed by  a  kind  and  faithful  domestic  in  a 
friend's  family,  or  where  circumstances 
would  render  a  gift  peculiarly  acceptable, 
it  is  pleasant  to  give  and  right  to  receive. 
We  object  to  the  system  which  makes 
present- giving  compulsory  without  re- 
gard to  the  feelings  or  means  of  the  do- 
nor, or  the  necessities  of  the  receiver. 
And  what  well-bred  lady  who  invites  her 
friends  for  the  pleasure  of  their  society, 
would  willingly  have  them  feel  under  the 
necessity  of  putting  themselves  to  incon- 
venience to  give  large  fees  to  her  servants, 
already  well  paid  for  the  trifling  services 
they  render  ? 

The  custom  which  we  have  understood 
is  actually  prevalent  in  some  places,  of 
visitors  "  making  up  in  presents  "  the  ex- 
pense incurred  by  their  friends  in  hospi- 
tably entertaining  them, — is  certainly 
"  better  honored  in  the  breach  than  the 
observance."  What  hospitality  can  there 
be,  when  an  equivalent  is  offered  and  re- 
ceived ?  It  would  be  more  fair  and  open 
to  make  the  bargain  regularly  in  dollars 
and  cents.  The  indirect  exaction  of  com- 
pensation in  this  way,  frequently  beyond 
what  could  reasonably  be  charged,  appears 
to  us  to  be  speculation  without  the  s. 
Yet  we  occasionally  hear  of  this  as  ex- 
pected from  visitors.  A  lady  in  the  States 
once  said  to  her  guest:  "I  know  you 
will  want  to  make  me  some  nice  present 
before  you  go  away ;  I  will  tell  you  what 
I  would  like:  &c."  A  lady  from  the 
country  who  staid  a  fortnight  with  a 


city  friend,  left  money  when  she  went 
away  to  purchase  "  some  sort  of  a  present." 
All  we  have  to  say  of  this  and  every  oth- 
er practice  tending  to  make  gifts  (which 
should  be  free  as  the  love  that  ought  alone 
to  prompt  them)  in  the  slightest  degree 
compulsory,  is,  that  it  is  wrong,  and  en- 
tirely subversive  of  true  friendship. 

To  return  to  our  subject.  It  is  in  vain 
that  societies  are  formed  for  the  encour- 
agement of  faithful  domestics,  by  giving 
premiums  and  high  testimonials  to  those 
who  serve  a  reasonable  time  in  the  same 
family.  These  last  are  not  valued,  where 
a  choice  of  places  can  be  had  without 
them,  and  the  roving  disposition  is  fos- 
tered by  the  notion  of  independence  and 
the  certainty  of  being  well  paid  for  doing 
as  one  pleases. 

The  only  protection  to  housekeepers 
from  this  endless  source  of  discomfort,  is 
to  be  found  in  correcting  the  mistaken 
notion  among  American  girls  that  a  place 
in  domestic  service  is  less  honorable  than 
the  severer  toils  of  seamstresses,  binders, 
shopkeepers,  or  milliners'  workwomen. 
If  they  could  be  persuaded,  instead  of 
wasting  away  their  lives  in  health-de- 
stroying needlework,  miserably  paid  for 
by  speculators  in  female  servitude, — to 
engage  in  the  active  and  varied  duties  of 
domestics,  secure  of  a  good  home  and 
abundant  wages — a  new  era  would  com- 
mence for  American  housewives. 

Something  might  be  done  towards  this 
end  by  regulating  the  hours  devoted  to 
household  employments,  in  such  a  way 
as  to  leave  a  portion  of  the  day  for  the 
girl's  own  time,  which  she  is  at  liberty 
to  employ  as  she  pleases;  and  by  en- 
couraging her  to  use  it  in  the  acquire- 
ment of  useful  knowledge.  "  It  requires 
a  refined  mind  to  dust  properly ; "  and 
the  cultivation  of  intellect  will  not  be 
thrown  away  in  any  department.  Let 
the  humiliation  of  servitude  be  thus 
taken  away,  and  persons  who  have  seen 
better  days  will  engage  in  the  occupa- 


DUTIES   OF   THE   MISTRESS. 


31 


tion.  We  would  recommend  the  estab- 
lishment of  an  Association  in  our  la] 
cities — to  find  suitable  places  for  persons 
of  a  respectable  class,  stipulate  for  suit- 
able privileges,  and  persuade  them  to  this 
easy  mode  of  earning  a  livelihood.  The 
gratitude  of  the  community  would  be  due 
to  such  an  institution. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

As  a  country  cannot  be  governed  with- 
out laws,  neither  can  a  household ;  and 
the  mistress  should  be  as  absolute  in  her 
own  house  as  a  sovereign  in  her  do- 
minions. Order  and  regularity  are  the 
key-stones  to  comfort,  and  our  housewife 
must  carefully  arrange  and  digest  her 
scheme  of  government  in  the  first  place, 
and  be  always  alive  to  any  modifications 
which  emergencies,  or  prudence,  or  cir- 
cumstances, may  call  for.  And  she  must 
understand  what  she  is  about,  or  her 
scheme  will  be  worthless ;  she  must  be 
able  to  teach,  nay,  to  demonstrate  upon 
occasions;  she  must  be  regular  in  her 
own  habits  if  she  would  have  those  about 
her  regular,  neat  in  all  that  concerns  her- 
self, attentive  to  the  details  of  housekeep- 
ing, economical,  just,  active,  and  consider- 
ate. She  must  neither  hold  the  reins 
of  government  loosely  and  negligently, 
nor  too  sternly,  but  must  quietly  exercise 
a  general  and  regular  surveillance  over 
every  part  of  her  house  and  household ; 
and  this  can  be  done  without  tyranny, 
without  vexatious  interference,  or  exhi- 
bitions of  temper.  Let  the  servants  once 
feel  that  this  is  her  habit,  and  they  will 
act  accordingly ;  and  if  the  place  is  good, 
conduct  themselves  so  as  to  endeavor  to 
please  and  keep  it.  And  it  is  the  inter- 
est, as  well  as  duty,  of  every  mistress,  to" 
make  her  servants  comfortable ;  to  see 
that  they  have  a  sufficiency  of  good  food, 
that  they  are  well  lodged ;  that  they  have 


time  to  mend  and  wash  their  own  clothes, 
nay,  that  they  know  how  to  do  so,  and 
doit. 

"  Do  not  send  your  clothes  home  to 
your  mother  to  wash  and  mend,"  said  a 
friend  of  ours  to  a  new  servant ;  "  you 
will  have  plenty  of  time  to  arrange  them 
yourself." 

"  Please,  mum,  I  don't  know  how ! " 
replied  the  girl. 

"Well,  Mary,  you  shall  be  taught, 
then,  for  it  is  time  you  did  know  how ! " 

"But  please,  mum,  I  don't  want  to 
learn!"  said  the  girl;  and  learn  she 
would  not,  for  the  foolish  indulgence 
which  leads  mothers  to  spare  their  chil- 
dren all  occupations  they  do  not  like,  is 
as  prevalent  among  the  poorer  as  among 
other  classes. 

To  return :  a  mistress  need  never  for- 
get herself,  nor  weaken  her  authority, 
nor  show  any  false  indulgence ;  but  in 
numerous  ways  she  will  have  the  op- 
portunity of  endeavoring  to  guide,  to 
advise,  and  to  benefit  those  dependent 
upon  her ;  but  she  must  be  patient,  if  she 
would  really  do  good.  She  must  remem- 
ber what  may  have  been  the  early  edu- 
cation, the  trials  and  temptations,  the 
experiences  of  those  girls,  and  must  not 
expect  too  much  from  them.  As  we 
have  before  said,  she  must  hold  the  reins 
of  government  with  a  firm  hand;  she 
must  not  overlook  neglect  of  duties,  ir- 
regularities of  conduct,  want  of  order  or 
cleanliness,  or  inattention  to  her  com- 
mands ;  but  she  can  notice  these  things 
quietly,  without  loss  of  temper,  and 
when  alone  with  the  offender ;  and  she 
can  also  notice  and  praise  neatness,  at- 
tention, obedience,  and  such  like,  and  not 
accept  the  good  as  mere  matters  of  course, 
and  only  mark  the  evil.  She  should  like- 
wise endeavor  to  induce  her  servant,  by 
example  and  precept,  to  be  regular  in  at- 
tendance on  religious  worship,  and  make 
Sunday  to  them  in  some  degree  a  day  of 
rest,  instead  of  one  of  extra  cooking  and 


32 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


work,  and  should  have  a  supply  of  those 
excellent  little  works  to  lend  them,  which 
are  published  by  the  religious  societies 
While  she  inculcates  economy  in  things 
relating  to  herself,  she  should  try  to  in- 
duce them  to  save ;  to  put  by  regularly  a 
certain  portion  of  their  wages,  and  not 
be  extravagant  in  clothes,  but  make  and 
mend  their  things  properly. 

There  is  little  saved  by  giving  paltry 
wages  ;  a  useful  servant  will  not  accept 
them,  and  those  who  do,  cannot  clothe 
themselves  respectably,  and  will  too  often 
eke  out  their  means  by  peculation.  It  is 
well  to  begin  with  moderate  wages,  and 
promise  an  annual  increase,  which  pro- 
mise both  induces  a  wish  to ,  please,  and 
takes  away  one  great  excuse  for  leaving, 
viz.,  a  desire  of  "bettering  herself." 
Even  in  the  present  "degenerate  age," 
attached  servants  are  to  be  found,  and 
may  be  created.  We  are  all  more  or  less 
human,  and  human  affections  and  home 
ties  act  upon  us ;  we  learn  to  love  those 
who  are  kind,  courteous,  and  consider- 
ate ;  we  value  the  notice  and  regard  of 
our  superiors,  and  we  take  a  certain 
pride  in  deserving  their  good  opinion. 
The  fault  lies  in  that  antagonism  of 
classes,  that  want  of  understanding  each 
other,  that  forgetfulness  that  all  are  fel- 
low-creatures, that  tendency  to  regard 
each  other  as  mutual  enemies  to  be  con- 
quered or  circumvented. 

But  we  will  pass  to  another  topic. 
The  amount  of  the  yicome  will  deter- 
mine what  sum  can  be  allowed  per  an- 
num for  housekeeping ;  for  besides,  there 
will  be  clothing  expenses  to  be  provided 
for,  sundries  of  Various  kinds,  expenses 
of  illness,  on  which  we  must  all  reckon, 
and  there  ought  to  be  a  reserve  fund 
regularly  laid  by  to  provide  for  any  un- 
foreseen emergency,  or  form  the  "nest 
egg  "  of  a  provision  for  a  rising  family. 
Well,  suppose  the  sum  determined  !  the 
next  question  is,  how  to  apportion  it  so 
as  to  combine  economy  with  comfort,  and 


secure  a  regular  and  uniform  style  of 
living  j  not  luxuries  to-day  and  parsimony 
to-morrow.     Now,  how  can  our  young 
housekeeper  do  this,  if  she  knows  little 
or  nothing  of  the  prices  of  provisions ;  if 
she  scarcely  remembers  when  things  are 
in  season  and  may  be  purchased  at  a  rea- 
sonable rate,  and  when  they  are  actual 
extravagances ;  if  she  has  no  idea  what 
quantity  of  this  or  that  ought  to  be  con- 
sumed, by  a  family  of  a  certain  size,  per 
week  or  per  month;  and,  above  all,  if 
she  has  little  aptitude  for  domestic  man- 
agement, and  considerable  contempt  for, 
all  such  vulgar  details  ?     Few  who  have 
read  that  truthful  sketch  of  Dickens,  the 
"  child-wife,"  will  forget  the  pretty  help- 
lessness of   Dora;    but,  although  this 
reads  well  in  a  novel,  very  few  such  girls, 
and  there  are  many  of  them,  will  meet 
with  husbands  as  indulgent;    for  men 
like  to  see  their  home  well  ordered,  and 
to  feel  the  comforts  of  good  manage- 
ment.. Every  girl,  or  almost  every  girl, 
looks  upon  marriage  as  the  great  aim 
and  end  of  her  existence ;  but  unfortu- 
nately, she  regards  it,  as  it  is  treated  in 
novels,  as  the  concluding  chapter,  the  en- 
trance to  that  "  and-lived-happily-ever- 
after  "  state  of  bliss  which  we  read  of  in 
fairy  tales.     And  certainly  it  is  the  en- 
trance to  a  new  life,  though  not  one  so 
rose-colored  as  she  dreamed;    it  takes 
her  from  the  home  where  she  has  been 
nurtured,  cared  for,  provided  for,  perhaps 
petted  and  indulged,  and  places  her  where 
she  will  have  to  be  the  presiding  intelli- 
gence ;  where  all  will  look  to   her  for 
guidance    and    instruction;    where  her 
happiness  and  comfort,  and  that  of  her 
husband,  will  depend  upon  how  she  is 
qualified  to  fulfil  the  duties  she  has  un- 
dertaken.     Mothers,   wishing    to    have 
your  daughters  well  married,  how  have 
you  prepared  them  for  the  duties  you 
well  know  they  will  have  to  perform? 
Perhaps  you  were  domestically  educated, 
for  our  grandmothers  were  more  careful 


HOUSEKEEPING   ACCOUNTS. 


33 


in  their  generation,  and  thought  it  no  de- 
gradation to  be  good  housewives !  Per- 
haps you  have  had  to  fight  your  way 
through  a  host  of  painful  lessons,  of  an- 
noyances, losses,  and  domestic  worries. 
Do  you  never  look  back  upon  that  miser- 
able time,  and  feel  anxious  to  spare  your 
children  a  similar  probation  ?  Life,  even 
at  its  best,  has  enough  of  painful  experi- 
ences, without  our  doubling  them  by 
neglecting  to  teach  each  individual,  in 
proper  time,  the  things  she  will  be  ex- 
pected to  know  when  she  readies  woman's 
estate. 

Every  housekeeper  should  keep  a  strict 
account  of  all  her  expenditures ;  should 
see  that  each  bill  is  receipted  when  paid ; 
should  file  all  receipts,  and  keep  them  for  a 
year  at  least — we  should  rather  say  two 
or  three.  All  housekeeping  bills  should 
be  paid  every  week,  for  it  is  easier  to  pay 
small  sums  than  large  ones ;  and  besides, 
the  correctness  of  the  bills  can  then  be 
ascertained.  The  mistress  should  look 
over  each  one  herself,  and  thus  she  will 
detect,  and  can  check,  any  inaccuracy  on 
the  part  of  the  tradesmen,  or  extrava- 
gance on  the  part  of  her  servants.  Should 
she  be  her  own  housekeeper,  let  her  deal 
regularly  with  respectable  tradesmen,  for 
they  will  rarely  risk  losing  a  good 
customer  by  sending  bad  goods.  Bar- 
gain-hunting is  always  perilous,  even  to 
good  judges.  Cheap  tea,  coffee,  sugar, 
&c.,  are  all  adulterate^;  cheap  vegeta- 
bles and  fruit  are  generally  stale ;  cheap 
meat  is  that  which  has  been  sent  ready 
killed  to  the  market,  and  therefore  is  by 
no  means  as  fresh  as  might  be  wished ; 
and  cheap  poultry  and  fish  are  to  be  re- 
garded with  very  great  suspicion. 

Those  who  have  store-closets  will  find 
their  advantage  in  purchasing  some  things 
wholesale.  Candles  should  be  bought 
in  the  latter  part  of  summer,  when  they 
are  usually  cheaper,  and  a  store  laid  in, 
for  they  improve  by  keeping.  So  does 


soap.  Coal,  too,  should  be  ordered  in 
July  or  August,  and  if  there  is  cellarage, 
a  stock  for  the  winter  laid  in.  Many 
groceries  may  be  purchased  in  quantities 
at  considerable  saving.  The  same  remark 
applies  to  bacon,  butter,  and  cheese  ;  but 
unless  there  are  good  dry  storerooms, 
these  latter  cannot  be  k*ept.  It  is  use- 
less to  make  pickles  or  preserves  unless 
the  house  is  dry— in  damp  localities  these 
things  mildew  and  spoil ;  nor  are  we  sure 
that  in  small  families  it  is  economical  to 
make  them  at  all,  they  can  be  bought  so 
reasonably.  All  stores  should  be  kept 
by  the  mistress,  and  given  out  as  re- 
quired. 

AH  good  homckeepers  will  provide 
themselves  with  weights  and  scales,  and 
thus  be  prepared  to  check  the  quantities 
of  stores  sent  them  by  their  tradespeople, 
who  are  as  liable  to  make  errors  in 
weighing  as  in  casting  their  bills.  We 
cannot  too  particularly  impress  this  upon 
the  attention  of  our  readers,  as  an  essen- 
tial means  of  protecting  themselves  against 
errors  in  weight,  whether  arising  from 
accident  or  design.  Many  heads  of  fami- 
lies are  exceedingly  particular  about  the 
price  of  their  purchases,  who  are  utterly 
regardless  whether  or  not  they  have  the 
weight  they  paid  for.  Tradesmen  are 
aware  of  this  trust  reposed  in  them,  and 
too  often  take  advantage  of  it.  Unlike 
the  symbol  of  Justice,  who.  as  she  holds 
the  scales  in  her  hands,  is  blind  to  all 
partialities,  some  tradesmen  (some  es- 
pecially amongst  the  class  who  are 
purveyors  to  the  poor)  are  too  open-eyed 
to  see  that  they  descend  in  their  own 
favor. 

In  the  realm  which  our  housewife  is  to 
govern,  order,  cleanliness,  punctuality, 
and  economy  must  be  the  fundamental 
principles  which,  by  precept  and  practice, 
she  endeavors  to  enforce.  It  matters 
little  whether  her  subjects  are  limited  to 
a  single  maid-of-all-work,  or  general 


34: 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


Work  Table. 

servant,  as  it  is  now  the  fashion  to  calf 
this  domestic,  or  whether  she  reign 
over  two,  three,  or  more  "helps,"  still 
the  principle  must  be  the  same ;  a  cer- 
tain routine  of  daily  and  weekly  duties 
must  be  laid  down,  and  it  lies  with  the 
mistress  to  see  that  not  only  these  are 
performed  properly,  but  that  all  inciden- 
tal matters  are  likewise  attended  to. 
However  wealthy  a  family  may  be,  they 
are  not  willing  that  their  houses  and  fur- 
niture should  be  injured  by  neglect  or 
mismanagement.  Money  can  enable 
man  to  hire  more  domestics,  but  it  cannot 
provide  that  these  persons  shall  be  clean 
ly,  diligent,  trustworthy,  and  painstak 
ing ;  it  cannot  secure  him  from  the  conse- 
quences of  their  ignorance,  their  careless 
ness,  their  extravagance.  Nothing  bu 
the  supervision  of  the  mistress,  or  a  goo( 
housekeeper,  can  do  this.  If,  then,  a  rich 
man,  who  can  pay  the  best  wages,  anc 
hire  the  most  experienced  servants,  find 
still  that  he  lacks  something,  how  muc 


more  will  one  of   moderate  income  or 
f  limited  means  suffer,  should  he  not 
find  in  his  wife  a  housewife  ? 

What  I  am  now  about  to  say,  some  of 
ny  readers  may  think    perhaps  out   of 
lace;   nevertheless  I  shall  say  it.      A 
woman  cannot  really  do  her  duty  as  a 
wife,  mother,  or  mistress  of  a  family, 
unless  she  is  fully  sensible  of  the  impor- 
ance  of  health,  and  gives  to  all  sanitary 
measures  their  due  attention.    ^Vith  loss 
f  health   come  diminished   powers   of 
usefulness.      Languor  and  delicacy  in  a 
wife  may  call  forth  the  sympathies,  but 
do  not  increase  the  comforts  or  happiness 
of  a  professional  or  business  man ;  neither 
do  they  render  a  woman  more  inclined 
for,  or  equal  to,  the  performance  of  her 
part  in  domestic  life.     And  too  many  of 
our  young  girls  render  themselves  languid, 
feeble,  and  delicate,  by  inattention  to  the 
commonest  requirements  of  human  nature. 
The  crying  evil  of  small  towns  is  usually 
the  want  of  baths  attached  to  houses,  and 
the  small  size  of  bed-rooms ;  now  these 
are  in  general  accepted  as  things  which 
must  be  endured,  and  little  or  no  attempt 
is  made  to  palliate  them.     All  medical 
men,  however,  agree  that  plentiful  ablu- 
tions  of  the  body  with  cold  or  tepid 
water,  and  a  good  supply  of  fresh  air  in 
every  sleeping  and  sitting-room,  do  more 
to  preserve  health  than  all  the  drugs  in 
the  pharmacopoeia.     And  next  to  these 
come  early  rising,  avoidance  of  late  hours 
and  crowded  assemblies,  regular  exercise 
in  the  open  air,  attention  to  diet,  and 
abstinence  from   pernicious    viands,    as 
pastry,  sweetmeats,  rich  gravies,  unripe 
fruit,  &c.     Pork,  veal,  and  various  kinds 
of  vegetables  can  only  be  eaten  sparingly 
and  occasionally  by  some  persons.     Spir- 
its should  only  be  used  medicinally,  that 
is  to  say,  at  times  when  common  sense 
tells  us  they  might  be  of  benefit.      To 
take    them  habitually  is  equivalent  to 
slow  poison. 
Besides  the  benefit  a  woman  derives  in 


IMPORTANCE   OF   HEALTH. 


35 


her  health  and  person  from  attention  to 
all  matters  relative  to  personal  care,  she 
will  gain  another  in  the  effect  of  her 
example  upon  her  dependants ;  for  we  are 
all,  to  a  certain  extent,  creatures  of  imita- 
tion, and  prone  to  follow  example,  be  it 
good  or  bad.  Servants  who  see  before 
them  one  who  consistently  practises  the 
virtues  of  economy,  regularity,  personal 
cleanliness,  and  general  neatness,  will 
never  run  diametrically  counter  to  all 
this,  but  will  in  some  degree  shape  their 
conduct  accordingly,  while  all  the  pre- 
cepts in  the  world,  without  practice,  will 
but  go  in  at  one  ear  and  out  at  the  other. 
Where  only  one  or  two  servants  are 
kept,  the  mistress  will  do  well  not  to 
leave  her  chamber  before  she  has  opened 
her  windows,  and  laid  the  bed-clothes 
ba^k  over  two  chairs  so  as  to  insure  the 
sheets  and  blankets,  heated  by  contact 
with  the  body  all  night,  being  well  aired 
and  cooled.  No  bed  should  be  made,  or 
night-dress  folded  up,  until  it  has  been 
aired,  and  suffered  thoroughly  to  cool  for 
at  least  two  hours.  Nurseries  should  be 
aired  while  the  children  are  at  breakfast, 
and  while  they  are  taking  their  morning 
walk.  Dining  and  drawing-rooms  re- 
quire a  current  of  fresh  air  passed  through 
them  at  least  once  every  day,  to  dislodge 
all  the  stale  atmosphere  tainted  by  the 
smell  of  food,  flowers,  &c.,  and  by  having 
been  inhaled  by  those  using  the  rooms. 
Many  of  our  readers  have  doubtless  been 
struck,  on  entering  some  houses,  by  the 
close,  faint,  unwholesome  smell  they, 
coming  from  the  fresh  air,  at  once  per- 
ceive. Those  who  dwell  in  it  habitually 
are  not  conscious  of  it.  They  dread  the 
chill  of  fresh  air,  or  the  dust  it  will  bring 
with  it  into  their  rooms ;  and  therefore 
shut  it  carefully  out,  and  cherish  in  its 
stead  a  species  of  slow  poison — a  heavy 
atmosphere  loaded  with  all  sorts  of  per- 
nicious gases. 

Light,  too,  is  another  forbidden  lux- 
ury in  some   houses.     Heavy  Venetian 


blinds  jealously  protect  the  delicate  hues 
of  the  curtains  and  carpets  from  its  in- 
fluence, and  the  inmates  consequently 
fade  instead  of  their  upholstery ;  for  a 
human  being  can  no  more  do  without 
light  than  can  a  flower,  and  we  only 
need  place  this  latter  in  a  cellar  for  a  few 
days,  and  we  shall  see  how  it  will  look. 
It  must  not,  however,  be  supposed  that 
we  would  recklessly  suffer  the  noonday 
sun  to  shine  on  our  damask  curtains  or 
tapestried  carpets,  or  that  we  should 
open  our  windows  when  rain,  hail,  or 
snow  beat  full  upon  them ;  all  we  wish 
to  do  isv  to  advise  such  a  use  of  the 
choicest  gifts  of  Providence,  as  health 
requires  and  common  sense  would  dic- 
tate. 

Nor  is  it  only  with  a  view  to  exercis- 
ing a  salutary  influence  upon  her  domes- 
tics and  strengthening  herself,  that  we 
would  counsel  our  housewife  to  pay 
strict  attention  to  all  matters  of  sanitary 
importance.  A  female  writer  of  some 
celebrity  has  said,  "  If.  before  marriage, 
a  woman  has  been  deluded  into  the  no- 
tion  that  a  multiplicity  of  small  ailments 
invested  her  character  with  an  interest- 
ing kind  of  delicacy,  the  sooner  she  be- 
comes well  after  marriage,  the  better  for 
herself  and  all  around  her." 

Now  we  do  not  intend  to  assert  that 
there  are  not  many  men  who  are  un- 
wearied in  their  tenderness  in  time  of 
illness ;  but  this  we  must  say.  that  there 
are  thousands  more  who  "  vote  sickness 
a  bore ; "  who  have  little  sympathy  with, 
little  tolerance  for  it ;  who  married  to 
have  a  cheerful  companion,  not  a  droop- 
ing, languid  invalid,  to  come  home  to ; 
and  who  soon  begin  to  seek  elsewhere 
that  companionship  and  cheerfulness 
they  have  failed  to  find  at  home.  And 
alas !  when  a  man's  love  has  once  been 
dimmed,  or  alienated  from  his  wife,  it 
never  wholly  recovers  its  lost  lustre,  but 
remains  a  mere  mechanical  matter  of 
duty  or  honor,  and  too  often  not  even 


36 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


that.  Matrimony  may  bind  a  man  to 
his  wife  legally,  but  herself  only  can  re- 
tain her  empire  over  his  heart ;  and  to 
do  this,  she  will  need  even  more  than 
her  former  charms  and  attractions  and 
fascinations,  besides  a  vast  variety  of 
other  attributes  which  her  new  position 
will  require  of  her. 

Women  little  dream  what  they  peril 
when,  after  marriage,  they  neglect  the 
accomplishments,  the  tasteful  dress  and 
adornment,  the  charming  coqnetlerie  of 
manner,  which  enthralled  the  lover. 
They  not  only  risk  their  happiness,  for 
it  depends  on  him,  but  they  neglect  what 
ought  to  be  their  highest  ambition,  that 
of  proving  how  much  dearer  is  the  wife 
than  the  mistress,  and  of  rendering  his 
home  a  refuge  from  cares,  a  scene  of 
tranquil  happiness,  of  social  enjoyment, 
and  of  real  comfort.  Milton  is  not  ut- 
tering a  merely  poetical  exclamation,  but 
a  great  truth,  when  he  says — 

"  For  nothing  lovelier  can  be  found 
In  woman  than  to  study  household  good, 
And  good  works  in  her  husband  to  promote ; " 

for  a  woman  who  is  true  to  herself  will 
inevitably  be  the  better  angel  of  her  hus- 
band. Contact  with  her  true  heart,  her 
gentle  pursuance  of  all  her  duties,  and 
with  her  cheerful,  rational,  and  earnest 
spirit,  will  restore  the  tone  of  his  mind, 
defiled,  saddened,  rendered  morbid,  it 
may  be,  by  contact  with  the  outer  world 
and  all  its  chicanery,  its  worry  and  its 
debasing  influences.  Wisely  are  all 
things  ordered,  if  we  would  hot,  by  our 
follies,  our  impatience  and  self-seeking, 
derange  them.  Beautiful  is  the  mission 
of  woman,  if  she  would  but  see  it  in  all 
its  holiness  and  brightness. 

Those  who  have  a  home  which  they 
can  make  happy,  will  not  sigh  for  con- 
tact with  the  outer  world,  to  be  per- 
mitted to  wrestle  and  contend  among  its 
fierce  trials  and  the  fiercer  spirits  that 
struggle  there  for  daily  bread  j  or  despise 


the  peaceful  path  of  domestic  duty, 
which,  although  it  has  its  trials,  is  yet 
in  a  great  degree  sheltered ;  or  reject  the 
gentle  ties  of  wife,  mother,  sister,  to 
study  some  learned  profession,  and  rush 
into  those  haunts  and  paths  already  too 
crowded  with  the  sterner  sex.  Such 
must  be  the  lot,  nevertheless,  of  many 
women,  whom  necessitous  circumstances 
have  forced  into  an  unnatural  position. 

Our  "  model  housewife  "  believes  with 
us  that  we  should  endeavor  a 

;t  "Well  ordered  home,  man's  best  delight,  to  make ; 
And  by  submissive  wisdom,  modest  skill, 
With  every  gentle,  care-eluding  art, 
To  raise  the  virtues,  animate  the  bliss, 
And  sweeten  all  the  toils  of  human  life ; 
This  is  true  female  dignity  and  praise." 

So  turn  we  now  again  to  more  practical 
matters. 

There  are  few  things  more  perplexing 
at  first  to  young  housewives  than  the 
momentous  question  of  dinner.  A  social 
dinner  party,  and  a  quiet  family  dinner, 
require  equal  consideration.  We  once 
heard  of  an  old  bachelor  who,  to  save 
himself  the  daily  trouble  of  stating  what 
he  would  have  for  dinner,  drew  up  a 
programme  of  dinners  for  every  day  in 
the  year,  and  handed  it  over  to  his 
housekeeper ;  and  a  lady  has  lately  pub- 
lished a  pamphlet,  entitled,  "  What  shall 
we  have  for  dinner,  in  order  to  save  idle 
folks  the  trouble  of  thinking." 

Now,  a  good  cookery  book,  a  short 
walk  round  the  region  where  the  market- 
ing is  done,  and  a  knowledge  of  family 
likes  and  dislikes,  will  generally  enable 
even  a  novice  to  arrange  this  important 
matter,  at  least  so  far  as  the  ordering 
goes,  the  cooking  being  another  consider- 
ation. Joints  should  always,  when 
weather  permits,  be  purchased  fresh,  and 
then  hung  as  long  as  is  deemed  requisite 
to  fit  them  for  eating.  A  knowledge  of 
the  sauces  and  condiments  appropriate  to 
every  dish,  is  a  subject  well  worth  atten- 
tion. The  cooking  of  vegetables  is  an 


DIRECTION   OF   THE   TABLE. 


37 


important  point,  and  one  in  which  we 
may  derive  much  useful  instruction  from 
the  French.  Vegetables  cannot  be  too 
fresh ;  in  large  towns  we  can  form  no 
idea  how  little  we  know  of  the  real  fla- 
vor and  delicacy  of  green  vegetables, 
accustomed  as  we  are  to  have  them  at 
least  a  day  after  they  are  cut. 

Fish  should  be  chosen  by  touch  and 
look.  If  it  feels  flabby,  and  looks  pale 
about  the  gills,  and  dull  about ^the  eyes, 
it  is  to  be  avoided;  firmness  of  body, 
brightness  and  fulness  of  eyes,  and  ruddi- 
ness of  the  gills,  are  signs  of  freshness. 
Orabs  and  lobsters  must  be  selected  by 
weight,  not  size,  and  the  olfactory  organs 
employed  to  test  their  sweetness. 

We  have  already  spoken  of  the  desira- 
bleness of  dealing  regularly  with  respect- 
able people,  but  no  rule  is  without  its 
exception ;  and  those  who  are  pretty 
good  judges  of  articles  of  provision,  may 
often  obtain  some  variety  by  looking 
about  them.  Practice  and  habitual  at- 
tention and  observation,  and  the  whole- 
some annoyance  of  one  or  two  blunders, 
will  soon  give  experience. 

We  would  advise  that  our  housewife 
should  see  occasionally  that  all  the  cook- 
ing utensils  are  kept  clean ;  that  there  is 
no  waste  or  extravagance,  that  the  ends 
of  loaves,  spare  bits  of  cut  brdkd,  bones 
of  meat,  cold  vegetables,  &c.,  are  not 
recklessly  thrown  about.  There  are  in 
every  neighborhood  only  too  many  poor 
to  be  found,  who  will  most  gratefully  re- 
ceive the  scraps  from  the  richer  man's 
table  ;  and  a  little  inquiry  will  always 
find  some  family  on  whom  such  odds  and 
ends  may  well  be  bestowed.  The  tea- 
leaves  should  be  regularly  put  by  in  some 
vessel,  to  be  used  in  sweeping. 

Perhaps  there  are  few  things  in  which 
the  respectability  of  a  man  is  more 
immediately  felt,  than  the  style  of  din- 
ner to  which  he  may  accidentally  bring 
home  a  visitor.  Every  one  ought  to  live 
according  to  his  circumstances,  and  the 
3 


meal  of  the  tradesman  ought  not  to  emu- 
ate  the  entertainments  of  the  higher 
classes ;  but  if  merely  two  or  three  dish- 
es be  well  served,  with  the  proper  accom- 
paniments, the  table-linen,  clean,  the 
small  sideboard  neatly  laid,  and  all  that 
is  necessary  be  at  hand,  the  expectation 
of  both  the  husband  and  friend  will  be 
gratified,  because-  no  interruption  of  the 
domestic  arrangements  will  disturb  their 
social  intercourse. 

Hence  the  direction  of  a  table  is  no 
nconsiderable  branch  of  a  ladv's  concern, 
as  it  involves  judgment  in  expenditure, 
respectability  of  appearance,  and  the  com- 
fort of  her  husband,  as  well  as  of  those 
who  partake  of  their  hospitality.  Inat- 
tention to  it  'is  always  inexcusable,  and 
should  be  avoided  for  the  lady's  own 
sake,  as  it  occasions  a  disagreeable  degree 
of  bustle  and  evident  annoyance  to  her- 
self, which  is^never  observable  in  a  well- 
regulated  establishment.  In  doing  the 
honors  of  her  table,  the  mode  of  carving 
is  also  of  importance,  and  will  be  treated 
of  in  a  future  chapter. 

The  mode  of  covering  the  table  differs 
in  taste.  It  is  not  the  multiplicity  of 
things,  but  the  choice,  the  dressing,  and 
the  neat,  pleasing  look  of  the  whole, 
which  give  respectability  to  her  who  pre- 
sides. The  table  should  be  furnished 
with  more  than  the  necessary  quantity 
of  plate,  or  plated  ware,  and  glass,  to 
afford  a  certain  appearance  of  elegance ; 
and  if  accompanied  by  a  clean  cloth  and 
a  neatly  dressed  attendant,  it  will  show 
that  the  habits  of  the  family  are  those  of 
gentility.  For  a  small  party,  or  a  tite-a- 
tcte,  a  dumb  waiter  is  a  convenient  con- 
trivance, as  it  partly  saves  the  attendance 
of  servants.  The  cruets  should  be  look- 
ed to  and  filled  every  day  an  hour  before 
dinner  ;  and  much  trouble  and  irregular- 
ity are  saved  when  there  is  company,  if 
servants  are  accustomed  to  prepare  the 
table  and  sideboard  in  similar  order  daily. 
Too  many  or  too  few  dishes  are  extremes 


38 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


not  uncommon :.  the  former  encumbering 
the  dinner  with  a  superfluity  which  par- 
takes of  vulgarity,  whilst  the  latter  has 
the  appearance  of  poverty  or  penurious- 


Servants  should  always  be  accustomed 
to  lay  the  cloth  and  serve  dinner  as  neat- 
ly when  the  family  is  alone  as  when  com- 
pany is  expected ;  they  should  likewise 
be  taught  to  bring  up  and  place  on  the 
table  or  sideboard  everything  likely  to 
be  required  during  the  meal,  and  not 
have  to  leave  the  room  repeatedly  on 
trifling  errands.  The  mistress  should 
glance  around  to  see  that  all  is  there; 
and  if  she  perceives  omissions,  mention 
them  before  dinner  commences.  Servants 
should  also  be  taught  to  wait  at  table 
without  bustle  or  noise ;  to  remove  plates, 
&c.,  without  rattling  them ;  to  open  and 
close  the  doors  gently;  to  lift  covers 
from  dishes  so  as  not  to  let  the  drops  of 
condensed  steam  fail  on  the  table  or  those 
seated  at  it.  If  these  things  are  ordina- 
rily insisted  upon,  the  mistress  of  the 
house  will  not.  when  she  gives  a  dinner 
party,  sit  on  thorns,  trembling  lest  some 
gaucherie  be  committed. 

Those  who  would  give  dinner  parties, 
must,  generally  speaking,  if  their  menage 
is  small,  hire  a  professed  cook.  A  small, 
well  cooked,  well  chosen  dinner,  is  far 
preferable  to  a  table  crowded  with  dishes. 
Symmetrical  arrangement  of  the  dinner 
table,  too,  is  a  powerful  adjunct.  The 
silver  should  be  bright,  the  glass  spark- 
ling, the  table-linen  pure  and  snowy,  the 


room  well  lighted,  of  comfortable  tem- 
perature, and  well  ventilated.  The  pleas- 
ure of  eating  a  good  dinner  is  greatly  en- 
hanced when  comfort  is  studied,  and 
taste  gratified. 


Vegetable  Dish. 

The  wines,  if  you  give  any,  should  be 
good ;  it  is  better  to  give  only  one  or  two 
kinds,  and  let  those  be  good,  even  though 
they  be  only  old-fashioned  port  and  sher- 


ry, than  to  aim  at  greater  things,  and  set 
before  the  guest  those  "  cheap  and  nasty  " 
imitations  of  other  vintages. 

Choose  the  company  and  arrange  them 
as  carefully  as  the  dishes.  Ill  assorted 
guests  are  difficult  to  please,  while  per- 
sons who  assimilate  find  additional  zest 
hi  their  social  enjoyment. 


THE   DINNER   TABLE. 


39 


Vegetable  Warmer. 

The  .dessert  should  be  well  selected, 
and  more  choice  than  plentiful.  By  choice, 


Plate  Warmer. 

do  not  let  us  be  understood  to  mean  ex- 
travagant, consisting  of  fruits  not  yet  in 


Cake  Basket 

season  nor  having  their  proper  flavor,  or 
of  preserved  fruits,  or  fancy  confectionery. 
All  these  are  prejudicial  to  health,  and 
we  cannot  understand  why  people  who 
dine  out  should  be  tempted  to  eat  indigest- 
ible things ;  why  what  ought  to  be  a 
means  of  social  enjoyment,  should  be 


made  a  matter  of  form,  ostentation,  and 
discomfort.  Let  the  dessert  consist  of 
fine  specimens  of  the  fruits  hi  season, 
backed  in  winter  by  a  few  dried  fruits 
and  biscuits. 


Fruit  Dish. 

Soyer's  housewife  thus  describes  her 
dinner : — The  first  thing  to  be  looked  to 
is  the  lights ;  these  ought  to  be  so  placed 
as  not  to  intercept  the  view  of  any  per- 
son at  the  table,  but  at  the  same  tune  they 
ought  to  be  enough  to  show  everything 
off  to  advantage.  I  prefer  removing  some 
of  the  lights  from  the  table  to  the  side- 
board when  the  cloth  is  removed,  as  the 
light  after  dinner  ought  to  be  more  sub- 
dued. In  laying  the  cloth,  we  place  it 
over  the  baize  and  remove  it  after  dinner, 
as  Mr.  B.  says  he  likes  to  see  the  mahog- 
any ;  for  when  he  asks  a  city  friend  to 
come  and  put  his  feet  under  his  mahoga- 
ny, it  looks  gather  foolish  if  he  never  sees 
it.  I  have,  as  you  know,  my  table  rath- 
er wide,  that  is,  six  feet,  and  I  generally 
place  a  vase  of  flowers  in  the  centre,  as  I 
think  their  freshness  and  odor  add  great- 
ly to  the  appearance  of  the  table,  and  ad- 
mit a  flanc  on  each  side.  We  prefer  the 


Dish  Cover. 

old  English  plan  of  taking  the  top  and 
bottom  of  the  table,  instead  of  me  and  Mr. 
B.  together  at  the  side. 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


"  The  cloth  being  laid  with  its  proper 
side  uppermost,  I  order  a  napkin,  two 
knives,  two  prongs,  two  tablespoons,  and 
two  wineglasses  to  be  placed  for  each  per- 
son, a  saltcellar  between  every  other; 
that  being  a  condiment  which  every  one 
uses,  though  often  wrongly ;  the  cruet- 
frames  and  other  requisites  are  kept  on 
the  sideboards.     I  then  have  the  fish  and 
soup  served  together ;   the  potatoes  and 
sauce  on  the  sideboard;  I  serving  the 
soup,  and  Mr.  B.  the  fish ;  and  often  a  lit- 
tle dish  of  fried  fish,  such  as  smelts,  &c., 
to  remove  the  soups.     This  gives  me  an 
opportunity  of  seeing  that  my  guests  are 
properly  attended  to,  and  also  leisure  to 
take   wine    with    any    gentleman    who 
challenges  me.     During    tjie  time  this 
course  has   been  progressing,  the  cook 
has  had  time  to  dish  up  the  removes  nice 
and  hot,  and  get  all  up  close  to  the  door, 
as  I  like  as  little  time  as  possible  to  in- 
tervene   in  changing  the  dishes ;    and 
these    consist    generally    of     variously 
dressed  chickens,  which  I  have  before  me, 
as  this  gives  an  opportunity  for  the  gen- 
tleman on  my  right  to  display  his  gal- 
lantry ;  Mr.  B.,  who  is  a  capital  carver, 
either  has  a  saddle  or  a  haunch  of  mut- 
ton, or  a  quarter  of  lamb  before  him,  the 
rest  of  the  dishes  consisting  of  a  tongue 
and  entrees.     I  select  those  most  easy  to 
carve,  and  also  easy  for  the  cook  to  pre- 
pare.    Thi«  is  u  period  of  dinner  where 
a  great  deal  depends  upon  the  attendants ; 
they  should  know  almost  by  the  look 
what  this  lady  or  that  gentleman  requires, 
and  what  kind   of  vegetables  to  hand 
them ;  a  first-rate  butler  should  be  able 
to  judge  by  the  physiognomy  to  whom 
he  should    offer  mint   sauce   with  the 
lamb,  and  who  prefers  cayenne ;  on  their 
attention  and  hot  plates  depends  the  suc- 
cess of  the  substantial  part  of  the  dinner. 
u  As  soon  as  I  see  that  all  are  served, 
and  words  are  few  in  consequence  of  the 
or^an  which  utters  them  being  employed 
in  another  way,  I  give  a  look  to  the  two 


Silver  Skewer, 
servants  which  they  understand,  and  im- 
mediately two  reports  are  heard— they 
are  from  two  bottles  of  champagne,  open- 
jd  at  the  same  time  by  the  attendants, 
who  have  each  a  salver  with  six  glasses 
on  it;  this  takes  but  a  short  time  to 
serve,  and  prepares  the  palate  for  the  en- 
trees, which  generally  get  praised;  in- 
deed, my  cook  would  think  something 
was  wrong  if  two  of  the  dishes  did  not 
go  down  empty.  By  having  the  cham- 
pagne thus,  I  find  it  goes  much  further 
than  if  only  one  bottle  was  opened  at  the 
time,  there  being  sufficient  left  in  tho 
bottles  for  a  gentleman  to  challenge  a 
Lady  to  take  champagne  with  him.  If  I 


have  game  I  remove  the  top  and  bottom 
dishes  with  them,  and  make  the  sweets 
a  separate  course,  taking  care  to  have 
cold  plates  for  the  jelly,  and  having  the 


EVENING   PARTIES. 


liquors  handed  round  when  the  sweeps 
are  on  the  table ;  one  cheese  I  place  op- 
posite Mr.  B.,  and  macaroni  opposite  my- 
self. In  the  dessert  I  generally  introduce 
some  new  importation,  such  as  bananas, 
sugar-cane,  American  lady  apples,  prickly 
pears,  &c. ;  these  also  give  a  subject  for 
the  gentlemen  to  talk  about  when  the 
ladies  have  left,  as  free  trade,  colonial 
policy,  &c.  About  half  an  hour  after  the 
dessert  is  on  the  table,  and  when  I  see 
that  the  conversation  is  becoming  less 
general,  I  retire  to  the  drawing-room; 
the  servants  then  remove  the  used  glass 
and  plates,  and  Mr.  B.  introduces  some 
of  his  choice  claret  or  Burgundy  in  ice 
coolers." 


Wine  Cooler. 

There  are  so  many  varieties  of  evening 
parties  that  no  directions  can  be  given 
respecting  them.  As  a  general  rule,  we 
would  advise  that  they  should  be  as  sim- 
ple, unostentatious,  and  sociable,  as  pos- 
sible. Tt  is  the  extravagance  which  has 
been  introduced  into  these  matters,  the 
insane  desire  of  outvying  each  other  fell 
by  individuals,  which  is  the  bar  to  real 
social  enjoyment,  and  prevents  us  from 
being  as  lively  a  people  as  the  French 
"Why  cannot  we  meet  to  converse,  hav< 
music,  dance,  or  amuse  ourselves  in  any 
rational  way,  and  be  content  with  light 
simple  refreshments,  and  a  sincere  wel 
come  ?  Surely  such  reunions  are  more 
enjoyable  than  crowds,  grand  suppers 
superb  toilettes  which  are  scarcely  seen 
in  the  crush,  and  suffocating  heat  or  cur 
rents  of  cold  air.  Such  assemblies  upse 
the  house  of  the  party-giver  for  a  week 


t  least,  weary  and  worry  her.  and  are 
riticised  most  severely  by  all  her  "  dear 
riends  "  who  did  not  enjoy  themselves, 
ior  receive  the  attention  they  expected, 
n  them  all  is  most  certainly  "  vanity  and 
exation  of  spirit ; "  there  is  no  pleasant 
onverse,  no  comfort,  no  intellectual  en- 
oyment;  weariness,  lassitude,  headache, 
and  expense,  are  the  only  concomitants 
»f  such  parties.    May  our  "model  house- 
wife "  have  courage  to  reject  them  alto- 
gether. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

FEW  persons  would  believe  what  a 
waste  of  money  and  property  arises  sim- 
ply from  want  of  care.  We  cannot,  of 
course,  expect  this  carefulness  from  ser» 
vants,  from  those  who  are  often  thought- 
less, inexperienced  girls,  coming  from  a 
home  where  there  was  little  worthy  of 
care,  perhaps  from  a  place,  where  there 
was  no  time  to  bestow  due  attention  01 
the  various  duties.  Few  servants  rtaj 
long  enough  in  a  situation  to  become  a 
tached  to,  and,  as  it  were,  identified  with 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


it  and  its  belongings ;  they  are  ever  striv- 
ing to  "  better  themselves,"  or,  in  other 
words,  obtain  higher  wages.  It  matters 
not  that  they  are  comfortable,  that  they 
like  their  employers  ;  that  they  are  well- 
treated,  and  not  over-worked ; — should 
some  acquaintance  or  relative  be  receiv- 
ing higher  wages  than  they  are  getting, 
they  will  sacrifice  all  to  "  go  and  do  like- 
wise ; "  and  too  often  not  in  order  that 
they  may  contribute  more  to  lay  up  a 
fund  in  case  of  illness  or  misfortune,  but 
to  be  able  to  dress  more  smartly,  or  in- 
dulge in  some  favorite  pleasure.  All  this 
is  much  to  be  regretted,  as  it  too  often 
entails  loss  of  health,  comfort,  and  res- 
pectability on  the  young  woman.  But 
it  is  not  this  point  from  which  we  now 
have  to  regard  it.  It  is  the  mistress,  not 
the  servant,  whom  we  are  addressing,  and 
whom  we  would  guard  from  the  troubles 
which  must  befall  her,  if  she,  too,  be  care- 
less, if  she  does  not  know  and  see  that 
her  property  is  well  managed  and  regu- 
larly and  properly  attended  to. 

We  have  before  said  that  no  household 
knowledge  can  be  deemed  superfluous,  or 
ought  to  come  amiss  to  a  woman,  who  is 
to  be  at  the  head  of  a  house.  Surely  she 
is  not  the  less  a  lady  because  she  under- 
stands how  her  house  should  be  managed 
and  cleaned,  and  kept  tidy  ? — because 
she  can  teach  her  servants  when  they  are 
ignorant,  put  method  into  their  proceed- 
ings when  they  are  careless,  and  quietly 
but  attentively  look  on  and  superintend 
when  they  are  tolerably  efficient  ?  We 
are  all  made  of  the  same  clay,  though 
differently  tempered  by  education  and 
position;  we  are  all  subject  to  vicissi- 
tudes, and  cannot  tell  what  a  day,  or 
even  an  hour,  may  bring  forth  ;  is  it  not, 
then,  wiser  to  be  armed  at  all  points,  pre- 
pared for  all  circumstances,  equal  to  any 
emergency  ? 

These  preliminary  remarks  have  been 
made  to  preface  the  directions  we  are 
a^out  to  give  for  the  daily  routine  of  a 


servant's  duties,  which  else  might  have 
seemed  out  of  place  here,  had  it  not  been 
our  opinion  that,  in  order  to  manage  ser- 
vants well,  a  mistress  should  fully  under- 
stand what  their  actual  duties  are. 

Early  rising  is  indispensable  if  a  ser- 
vant would  do  her  duty ;  it  is  not  possi- 
ble that  the  rooms  can  be  dusted,  the 
fires  lit,  tfre  breakfast  got  ready,  and  all 
the  little  incidental  jobs  done,  unless  a 
servant  is  down  stairs  at  least  two  hours 
before  breakfast-time.  We  should  fix  six 
o'clock  as  the  proper  hour  at  which  work 
should  begin  all  the  year  round ;  for  in 
winter  even  more  has  to  be  done  than  in 
summer,  and  few  things  are  more  un- 
pleasant than  to  have  servants  pottering 
about  their  work  all  day,  instead  of  get- 
ting through  the  chief  and  dirtiest  part  of 
it  in  the  morning  hours.  If  we  make  a 
call,  which  gives  us  the  most  favorable 
impression  of  the  family, — to  see  a  tidy- 
looking,  clean  servant,  answer  the  door  ; 
or  to  have  it  opened  by  one  who  looks 
as  if  she  had  deemed  it  necessary  when 
blacking  the  stoves  to  black  her  own  per 
son  also  ? 

A  servant  should  be  trained  to  rise 
about  half-past  five,  throw  open  her  bed, 
and  her  window,  too,  when  the  weather 
permits  j  unclose  the  shutters  of  the 
staircase  and  dining-room,  open  the  win- 
dows of  this  latter  to  air  it ;  pass  into 
the  kitchen,  and  open  the  shutters  and 
windows  there ;  light  the  kitchen  fire ; 
well  rinse  the  kettle,  and  fill  it  with 
fresh  water ;  see  that  the  boiler  is  well 
supplied  with  water,  and  then  proceed  to 
prepare  the  room  required  for  breakfast. 

The  rug  must  be  folded  up  and  removed, 
and  the  proper  cloth  laid  down  in  front  of 
the  fire-place  before  the  grate  is  touched 
(we  are  supposing  that  it  is  winter)  ;  the 
box  containing  the  black-lead  and  brush- 
es for  a  black  stove,  or  the  emery  paste, 
and  leather,  brushes,  cloth,  &c.,  for  a 
polished  stove,  and  the  scuttle  containing 
coal,  wood,  &c.,  must  be  brought  up. 


DAILY   WOEK. 


Once  a  week,  at  least,  the  soot  should  be 
gently  swept  down  from  the  chimney 
into  a  shovel,  as  it  otherwise  gathers  all 
round  the  lower  ledges,  and  is  very  apt 
to  take  fire.  The  stove  must  be  polished 
with  a  brush,  or  a  cloth,  according  to  its 
nature,  every  morning,  and  thoroughly 
cleaned  at  least  once  a  week.  The  fire 
may  then  be  laid  and  lighted,  and  in  doing 
this  there  is  some  art.  Where  one  girl 
will  light  and  re-light  the  same  fire  three 
or  four  times  over,  consuming  in  each 
attempt  a  quantity  of  wood,  and  paper, 
another  will,  with  less  wood,  kindle  a 
brisk  fire  at  once.  The  mystery  lies  in 
obtaining  a  perfect  draught  of  air  through 
the  pile  of  materials,  and  placing  those  in 
juxtaposition  which  are  most  combusti- 
ble in  nature.  Where  this  is  properly 
done  there  will  be  little  smoke,  and  great 
saving  of  fuel ;  but  fire-lighting  requires 
the  use  of  one's  senses  and  some  skill, 
commonplace  a  matter  as  we  may  think 
it. 

This  much  having  been  done,  the 
sweeping  comes  next.  Now,  it  will  not 
be  requisite  thoroughly  to  sweep  the  car- 
pet all  over  above  £>nce  a  week ;  on  the 
other  six  days  those  parts  of  the  room 
chiefly  used,  alone  require  sweeping,  and 
this  may  be  done  with  a  dust-pan  and  a 
soft  hand-brush.  Then  comes  the  dust- 
ing, and  in  doing  this  a  feather  brush 
should  be  used  for  the  frames  and  chair 
covers,  and  a  duster  for  the  furniture. 
On  the  cleaning  day  the  carpet  must  be 
well  swept  with  a  carpet-broom  and  tea- 
leaves,  the  furniture  well  cleaned  and 
rubbed,  the  mantel-piece  and  ledges  wash- 
ed, the  inside  of  the  windows  cleaned, 
and  every  ornament  well  dusted. 


Window  Brush. 

The  street-door  steps  should  be  clean- 


ed, the  mats  shaken,  the  passage  swept, 
and  the  brasses  polished  before  the  fami- 
ly come  down. 


Feather  Duster. 

The  breakfast  is  then  to  be  prepared ; 
the  cloth  laid,  the  breakfast  service  pro- 
perly arranged,  the  ham  or  eggs,  or  what- 
ever it  may  be,  cooked,  the  toast. made, 
the  butter  set  in  clear,  fresh  water,  the 
coffee  prepared  and  the  milk  boiled. 


Brushes  for  Cleaning. 

The  servant  next  proceeds  to  the  bed- 
rooms, opens  the  windows,  lays  the  bed- 
clothes back  to  air,  and  turns  up  the  mat- 
tresses or  feather-beds  in  each  room;  then 
empties  the  slops,  cleanses  and  rinses  all 
basins,  ewers,  bottles,  &c.,  wipes  up  all 
slops,  and  brings  fre^h  water  to  supply 
all  wants  in  each  room.  The  beds  are 
then  to  be  made,  and  the  rooms  dusted. 
On  cleaning  day,  which  should  come  for 
each  room  once  a- week,  the  chamber 
utensils  must  all  be  well  washed  in  warm 
water,  the  carpets  taken  up  and  shaken, 
the  floor  scrubbed,  the  curtains  shaken, 
and*  the  furniture  cleaned.  During  the 
summer  the  floor  under  the  bed  should 
be  washed  over  three  times  a- week  at 
least,  to  remove  all  dust  and  flue. 

Before  all  this  can  be  finished,  the 
breakfast  will  have  had  to  be  removed, 
and  this  should  be  methodically  done; 
the  china  being  gathered  on  a  tray  with- 


THE   PEACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


out  either  fuss  or  rattle,  the  crumbs 
brushed  from  the  cloth,  and  this  latter 
doubled  up  in  its  original  folds,  and  any 
crumbs  which  may  have  fallen  on  the 
floor  swept  up  into  a  dust-pan. 

The  servant  will  now  get  her  own 
breakfast,  and  then  wash  up  and  put 
away  all  the  breakfast  things,  having  first 
set  aside  all  the  eatables,  giving  the  scraps 
to  the  cat,  and  taking  care  that  nothing 
is  wasted. 

The  up-stairs  work  having  been  done, 
the  candlesticks  and  lamps  should  be 
cleaned  and  trimmed;  and  then  the 
knives  cleaned.  Where  only  one  servant 
is  kept,  she  will  ere  this  have  had  to 
think  about  dinner,  and  manage  so  as  to 
make  the  earlier  preparations  for  that 
important  matter  between  whiles.  A 
mistress  should  always  inform  her  domes- 
tic charged  with  such  duties,  what  she 
intends  having  for  dinner,  when  the  girl 
is  removing  the  breakfast  things,  other- 
wise she  cannot  possibly  arrange  her  dai- 
ly duties  so  as  to  attend  to  the  cooking 
without  neglecting  them ;  and  the  mis- 
tress should,  as  far  as  possible,  endeavor 
to  arrange  her  dinner  so  as  to  suit  the 
household  duties  of  the  particular  day 
for  wUich  she  is  catering.  For  each  day 
should  have  its  special  duties ;  as,  Mon- 
day, the  wash  for  towels,  dusters,  servants' 
clothes,  &c.,  and  looking  up  the  clothes  for 
the  laundress ;  Tuesday,  cleaning  the  at- 
tics; Wednesday,  the  best  bed-rooms; 
Thursday,  the  drawing-room ;  Friday,  the 
dining-room  and  plate ;  and  Saturday,  the 
hall,  staircase,  and  kitchen,  covers,  &c. 
Such  regulations  once  laid  down,  the  ser- 
vant will  know  what  duties  each  day  re- 
quires of  her;  and  the  mistress,  being 
aware  what  has  to  be  done,  will  be  able 
to  give  her  orders  accordingly, — for  noth- 
ing can  be  done  without  good  manage- 
ment in  a  small  household.  Both  mis- 
tress and  servant  must  exercise  fore- 
thought, or  the  whole  day  will  be  one 
scene  of  hurry,  scurry,  and  discomfort. 


The  next  thing,  then,  is  dinner,  and 
this  meal  having  been  served  and  removed, 
the  servant  must,  if  the  family  are  in  the 
habit  of  retiring  |to  the  drawing-room, 
run  up  and  see  that  all  is  right  there ; 
the  fires  burning  and  curtains  let  down, 
if  in  winter,  or  any  little  customary 
summer  arrangements  made.  Then  comes 
washing  up  the  dinner  things,  and  pre- 
paring for  tea,  and  serving  that  at  the 
proper  hour. 

While  the  family  are  at  tea  is  the  best 
time  for  the  servant  to  go  up  to  the  bed- 
rooms, turn  down  the  beds,  close  win- 
dows, light  fires,  or  perform  any  other 
customary  or  necessary  duty. 

The  tray  has  to  be  removed,  and  cups 
used  at  that  meal,  washed  and  put  away. 
The  tea  leaves  should  be  squeezed  tolera- 
bly dry.  and  put  away  in  an  old  dish  or 
3asin,  for  sweeping.  All  window  shut- 
ters should  be  closed  and  doors  bolted  at 
dusk,  both  in  winter  and  summer.  If 
upper  is  taken,  it  is  usually  carried  up 
on  a  tray  covered  with  a  cloth ;  after  that ' 
comes  the  putting  out  of  all  fires  and 
amps,  the  fastening  the  hall  door,  and 
then  to  rest. 

Any  one  who  takes^the  trouble  to  re- 
lect  upon  the  multifarious  occupations  of 
a  female  domestic,  in  a  family  where  but 
one  is  kept,  cannot  but  perceive  the  abso- 
ute  necessity  of  a  regular  plan  of  pro- 
ceedings, and  also  of  the  need  there  is 
or  consideration,  patience,  and  kindness. 
With  all  the  activity  and  good-will  in  the 
world,  it  is  physically  impossible  that  a 
j;irl  can  be  in  two  places  at  once ;  and 
yet  she  may  be  just  performing  soms 
nice  operation  in  cookery  while  a  visitor 
may  be  knocking  at  the  door,  and  her 
mistress  ringing  impatiently  to  have  some- 
hing  done  towards  tidying  herself  or  the 
ipartment.     How  is  this  to  be  managed  ? 
t  can  only  be  settled  quietly  by  the  mis- 
ress  bestirring  herself,   and   aiding  in 
moothing  the  difficulty.     Where  two  or 
more  servants  are  kept,  one  should  always 


ORDER   AND   METHOD. 


be  tidy  and  ready  to  answer  the  door, 
and  the  lady  of  the  house  and  her  apart- 
ments should  always  be  mis  a  quatre 
epingleS)  or,  in  other  words,  in  such  or- 
der that  a  visit  from  royalty  itself  would 
scarcely  create  any  bustle.  Indeed,  the 
test  of  a  well-arranged  establishment  is 
the  absence  of  all  fuss.  The  advent  of 
relatives  from  the  country  bent  on  find- 
ing a  home  and  a  bed  there,  the  arrival 
of  unexpected  guests  to  dinner,  or  any 
such  unexpected  events,  will,  of  course, 
slightly  derange  the  economy  of  a  house- 
hold, especially  if  it  be  a  small  one ;  but 
our  housewife  will  not  allow  this  to  be 
visible.  Quietly  and  without  confusion 
she  will  take  opportunities  of  giving  the 
necessary  orders ;  and  if  her  servants  are 
regularly  trained,  they  will  comprehend 
and  second  her  at  once.  In  every  house 
spare  sheets,  blankets,  and  bed-clothes 
should  always  be  kept  aired,  in  case  of 
their  being  required  on  any  sudden 
emergency,  and  this  can  be  done  by  lay- 
ing them  between  the  palliasse  and  mat- 
tress of  any  bed  in  regular  use.  We  have 
before  spoken  of  the  advantage  of  always 
having  the  store- closet  well  supplied.  It 
is  a  great  mistake  to  fancy  that  anything 
is  saved  by  purchasing  articles  that  will 
keep,  in  small  quantities,  and  certainly 
the  loss  of  time  incurred  by  having  con- 
stantly to  send  out  for  trifles,  is  both  a 
great  waste  and  a  great  inconvenience. 
No  servant  can  get  through  her  work 
properly  if  she  has  repeatedly  to  run  out 
on  errands,  or  if  she  is  called  off  frequent- 
ly on  frivolous  pretexts.  A  mistress  is 
quite  right  in  exacting  from  her  servants 
a  regular  and  proper  fulfilment  of  all 
their  duties ;  but  on  her  part  she  must 
give  them  time  and  opportunity  to  do 
this.  If  she  sees  they  want  method,  she 
must  try  to  teach  them ;  and  through  all 
must  remember  how  defective  their  early 
education*  has  too  often  been,  how  little 
preparation  they  Lave  received  for  the 


path  of  life  they  have  to  follow,  and  be 
patient  with  them.  The  great  social 
evil  of  the  present  age  is,  that  females  are 
rarely  trained  with  reference  to  their 
probable  duties.  This  evil  pervades  all 
classes,  from  the  lowest  to  the  highest 
The  daughter  of  the  millionnaire  is  seldom 
taught  to  consider  how  great  are  the 
social  responsibilities  her  wealth  and  po- 
sition impose  upon  her, — to  regard  her- 
self as  a  steward  of  the  Almighty,  a 
medium  through  which  His  blessings  may 
flow  to  those  poor  and  unfortunate  ones,- 
whose  lot  is  cast  so  far  apart  from  hers. 
If  she  learns  at  all  that  "  to  whom  much 
is  given,  much  will  be  required,"  she 
probably  imagines  that  much  to  be  in 
the  way  of  style,  dress,  and  accomplish- 
ments ;  which,  to  a  certain  extent,  is  not 
far  wrong,  for  the  circulation  of  money 
is  a  commercial  advantage,  and  those 
elevated  in  position  should  also  be  eleva- 
ted in  mental  and  moral  attributes  ;  but 
this  is  not  all  required  of  them.  There 
is  a  duty  to  the  poor,  the  duty  of  kind- 
ness, charity,  and  mercy.  If  all  who 
have  it  in  their  power  would  but  attend 
to  this  a  little,  how  much  good  might  be 
done!  and  what  sits  so  gracefully  on 
woman  as  such  gentle  deeds  and  holy 
virtues  ? 

Then,  as  we  have  before  said,  the  daugh- 
ters of  the  working  class  are  hardly  pre- 
pared for  their  position  as  wives,  mothers, 
and  housewives ;  and  the  children  of  the 
poor  have  too  often  a  still  worse  bringing 
up,  being  reared  amid  misery,  poverty, 
dirt,  and  vice,  if  not  in  their  own  fami- 
lies, at  least  in  many  of  those  around 
them. 

Vast  as  has  been  the  general  spirit  of 
progression  in  this  age,  it  is  marvellous 
that  these  every-day  matters  have  been, 
practically  speaking,  so  totally  overlook- 
ed. There  is  much  theory,  but  the  greater 
part  of  it  is  speculative  and  Utopian.  We 
are  not  advocates  of  systems,  but  would 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


recommend  good  common  sense  instead ; 
for  systems  can  only  be  applied  to  cer- 
tain parties  and  in  certain  ways,  whereas 
common  sense  will  cull  the  best  parts  of 
many  systems,  and  adapt  them  to  suit 
the  peculiar  position  or  character  it  has 
to  deal  with,— and  thus  give  to  that 
character  a  firmness  and  freedom  from 
conventional  prejudices  which  will,  when 
strengthened  by  right  principles,  make  it 
good  and  useful 


CHAPTER  Vin. 

AMONG  the  many  duties  a  woman  is 
called  upon  to  fulfil,  surely  none  can  be 
deemed  of  such  paramount  importance  as 
those  she  owes  to  her  children.  Now  it 
is  by  no  means  our  intention  to  write  a 
chapter  of  "  advice  to  mothers,"  or  enter 
upon  the  subject  of  the  education  and 
general  management  of  little  people ;  all 
we  have  to  do  with  the  matter  here  is  to 
notice  it  as  forming  a  branch  of  our  sub- 
ject; for  the  nursery  is  an  important 
part  of  a  house,  and  upon  its  good  man- 
agement much  of  the  comfort,  as  well  as 
the  health  and  well-being  of  every  mem- 
ber of  the  family,  will  depend. 


Sitz  Bath. 

If  ever  a  woman  has  need  of  thought 
care,  and  patience,  it  is  when  she  becomes 
a  mother.    Who  can  look  upon  that  mos 
helpless  of  all  created  beings — a  new-born 
infant — and  not  feel  pity  for  it,  interes 


n  it ;  and  surely  no  mother  can  bestow 
her  first  kiss  on  the  little  unconscious 
nnocent  without  feeling  some  sense  of 
he  responsibilities  which  now  rest  upon 
ier — for  it  is  not  only  a  human  being, 
Dut  an  immortal  soul  which  is  committed 
;o  her  charge. 

Wherever  such  an  arrangement  can  be 
made,  a  good-sized  airy  room  should  be 
et  apart  for  the  nursery,  and  always 
Lept  scrupulously  clean,  well  ventilated, 
and  of  an  even  wholesome  temperature. 
Warmth  is  highly  necessary  to  the  health 
of  infants  and  young  children — but  not 
the  warmth  of  a  close,  over-heated  room, 
for  that  oppresses  their  lungs,  and  makes 
them  delicate  and  very  susceptible  of 
cold.  Let  the  child  be  comfortably  clad, 
and  a  natural  temperature  of  body  thus 
maintained.  The  health  of  very  many 
infants  is  impaired  by  the  foolish  custom 
of  exposing  their  little  chests  and  arms 
by  finely-worked  low  bodies  and  very 
short  sleeves,  tied  up  so  as  effectually  to 
prevent  their  being  of  any  use  in  the  way 
of  covering.  Very  young  children  have 
so  little  natural  heat,  that  they  absolute- 
ly require  that  the  temperature  of  their 
bodies  should  be  kept  up,  by  means  of 
clothing,  to  a  proper  standard. 

The  furniture  of  the  nursery  ought  to 
be  very  simple,  and  to  consist  of  no  more 
things  than  are  absolutely  necessary.  The 
"  bassinet,"  a  wicker  basket  stuffed  very 
soft  and  lined  within,  two  and  a-half  or 
three  feet  longr  and  one  and  a-half  wide, 
has  been  used  in  England  for  very  young 
infants,  and  may  be  carried  about.  Cra- 
dles and  swinging  cots  are  condemned  by 
medical  men,  and  are  now  less  used  than 
cribs.  Children's  chairs  of  various  sizes, 
a  washstand,  shower  bath,  a  child's  bath, 
or  a  large  earthernware  basin  fixed  in  a 
stand  of  wood,  various  vessels  of  earthen- 
ware, a  nursery  lamp  for  warming  liquids 
when  there  is  no  fire,  sponges  and  linen 
baskets — comprise  the  requisite  articles 
of  furniture.  A  wire  guard  for  the  fire,  and 


THE   NURSERY. 


bars  for  the  windows  should  never  I 

omitted. 


French  Folding  Fender. 
Next  to  warmth,  in  the  category  o 
matters  indispensable  to  health  is  clean 
lines?.  Morning  and  night,  an  infant  or 
a  child  under  three  years  of  age,  should 
be  bathed  in  tepid  water  in  winter,  ani 
cold  water  in  summer.  This  operation 


Can,  Bath  and  Pail, 
should  be  performed  both  thoroughly  and 
quickly,  and  then  the  whole  body  wiped 
quite  dry  with  a  soft  towel,  and  the  limbs 
and  back  gently  rubbed  with  the  hand. 
The  skin  of  an  infant  is  so  delicate  that  a 
little  dirt,  a  slight  accumulation  of  pow- 
der, any  dampness,  any  rough  handling 


Infants'  Bath. 

or  friction  with  a  coarse  cloth,  will  break 
or  crack  it,  and  often  produce  a  humor 
which  is  not  easily  got  rid  of.  The 
clothes  of  an  infant,  and  especially  those 
in  immediate  contact  with  its  body, 
should  be  soft  and  clean.  Its  bed-clothes 
must  likewise  be  kept  well  aired,  and 
free  from  damp  and  unpleasant  smells. 
Very  young  children  should  be  kept, 


as  much  as  possible,  in  a  recumbent  pos- 
ture j  the  less  a  child  is  allowed  to  sit 
upright  for  the  first  six  months  the 
stronger  will  be  its  back  afterwards. 
Too  strong  a  light  is  prejudicial  to  youn~ 
children;  neither  within  nor  out  cf  doors 
should  their  eyes  be  exposed  to  anything 
like  glare;  they  ought  likewise  to  be 
shielded  from  high  winds.  Sleep  is  a 
great  strengthener  of  children,  when  it  is 


Leg  Bath. 


Foot  Bath. 


natural,  and  care  should  be  taken  that 

hey  lie  comfortably  as  regards  position, 

are  warm,  and  sheltered  from  all  draughts 

and  from  light,  though  allowed  sufficient 

air.     In  all  things  endeavor  to  establish 

regular  habits  from  the  very  first ;  regu- 

ar  hours  for  feeding,  sleeping,  dressing, 

and  undressing,  should  be  observed.  Few 

people  can  form  an  idea  how  much  their 

wn  comfort  and  the  child's  well-being 

will  be  promoted  by  this.     Of  course, 

very  now  and  then  illness,  or  some  un- 

oreseen  event,  will  interfere  with  this 

ystem,  but  it  must  be  resumed  again  as 

oon  as  possible.    We  are  aware  that 

many  people  will  deem  this  regularity 

unnecessary,  but  from  the  cradle  to  the 

rave,  we  are  all  more  or  less  the  creatures 

f  habit ;  and  from  the  time  a  child  first 

egins  to  notice  anything,  its  habits  may 

e  said  to  commence. 

When  a  child  is  fed,  it  should  be  from 

proper  bottle,  and  with  light,  thin  food, 

ot  given  too  hot  or  in  large  quantities. 

'arinaceous  substances  of  various  kinds 

re  best  adapted  for  children  of  tender  age. 

or  the  first  twelvemonth  these  may  be 

iven  in  a  fluid,  and  semi-fluid  state,  and 

afterwards  in  the  shape  of  puddings  either 


THE   PRACTICAL  HOUSEKEEPER. 


baked  or  boiled.  Many  children  will 
not  take  meat,  and  they  do  not  appear  to 
thrive  less  than  others;  nature  at  this 
early  age  is  generally  the  best  pilot,  and 
we  shall  seldom  err  if  we  follow  her  lead. 

The  period  of  teething  is  always  one 
of  anxiety,  and  requires  additional  care 
and  watchfulness;  but  plenty  of  fresh 
air,  good  and  sufficient,  but  not  over-feed- 
ing, and  an  occasional  warm  bath  or  gen- 
tle aperient  when  there  appears  to  be 
tendency  to  fever,  will  in  most  cases  ward 
off  serious  evils.  The  less  pfiysic  a  child 
takes  the  better  in  a  general  way— not 
that  we  would  advise  mothers  ever  to 
slight  any  actual  premonitory  symptoms 
of  illness;  infantile  diseases  being  fre- 
quently very  rapid  in  their  course. 

There  is  no  occasion  to  teach  children 
to  walk ;  when  they  are  strong  enough, 
they  will  invariably  find  out  the  proper 
use  of  their  feet ;  let  them  lie  on  the  floor, 
and  then  sit,  and  then  crawl ;  and  by-and- 
by  they  will  stand  up,  and  then  walk 
along,  holding  by  something ;  and  then, 
when  they  appear  capable  of  doing  yet 
more,  encourage  them  to  venture  alone, 
but  watch  carefully  that  they  do  not  fall, 
or  they  may  be  frightened,  and  thrown 
back  some  weeks.  After  a  child  is  a 
year  old,  it  must  cease  to  be  regarded  as 
an  irrational  being  by  those  about  it ;  a 
quick,  lively  baby  is  always  taking  no- 
tice; its  intelligence  is  becoming  daily 
and  hourly  developed ; — in  a  word,  the 
first  rudiments  of  education  are  entering 
its  little  mind.  This  may  sound  extrav- 
agant and  fanciful,  but  what  says  prover- 
bial philosophy?  "With  his  mother's 
milk  the  child  drinketh  education  ; "  and 
let  any  one  take  three  children  of  from  a 
year-and-a-half  to  two  years  old,  one  of 
the  three  shall  have  been  brought  up  by 
a  quiet  or.  ignorant  nurse,  one  by  an 
affectionate  and  sensible  mother,  and  the 
*  other  among  a  family  of  children ;  the 
first,  unless  it  be  a  prodigy,  will  be  far 
behind  the  second  in  quickness,  and  the 


third  will  be  as  much  before  the  second. 
We  would  punish  any  one  who  mispro- 
nounced words  before  babies,  or  taught 
them  to  call  things  or  animals  by  ridicu- 
lous names  ;  and  we  would  doubly  pun- 
ish any  one  who  instilled  fear  into  the 
hearts  of  young  children  by  threats  of 
"bogies/5  "black  men,"  and  such  like 
nursery  monsters.  Many  a  grown  man 
and  woman  has  found  it  difficult  to  over- 
come the  dislike  to  darkness  implanted 
in  them  when  young  children  by  some 
nursery  bug-bears.  Teach  a  child  rather 
to  believe  that  angels  watch  over  it,  in- 
duce it  to  be  good  from  a  fear  of  grieving 
its  ^parents,  but  never  destroy  or  sully 
that  sweet  confidence  which  is  the  most 
blessed  part  of  childhood.  Never  tell  a 
child  a  falsehood  either ;  if  you  promise 
a  thing,  do  it ;  if  you  say  a  thing,  act  up 
to  it.  Empty  threats  and  vain  promises 
made  to  quiet  a  child,  teach  it  afterwards, 
in  its  turn,  to  disregard  truth,  and  make 
it  distrust  those  whom,  next  to  God,  it 
should  love  and  honor ;  whereas  "  exam- 
ple is  a  constant  monitor." 

We  are  not  advocates  for  "  cramming  " 
children  too  early  with  crude,  dry  learn- 
ing; but  much  may  be  taught  without 
effort.  "Line  upon  line"  may  be  in- 
stilled by  such  simple  stories,  such  plea- 
sant gossip  as  children  love  to  listen  to, 
such  bright  pictures  as  they  delight  to 
look  upon  and  have  explained  to  them. 
There  is  in  the  present  age  a  royal  road 
to  all  the  fundamental  instruction  needed 
by  children  for  the  first  eight  or  ten 
years  of  their  lives ;  'the  dull,  uninterest- 
ing paths  we  had  to  tread  are  now  decked 
with  so  many  flowers  that  they  have  be- 
come attractive  and  pleasant.  Even  the 
very  toys  and  games  are  made  means  of 
improvement;  and  history,  arithmetic, 
and  geography  may  now  be  learned  as 
actual  amusements. 

The  physical  wants  of  growing  children 
are  a  sufficiency  of  good,  plain  food  at 
regular  hours,  exercise  in  the  open  air, 


TRAINING   OF   CHILDREN. 


49 


well-ventilated  rooms,  clothing  warm 
enough  to  promote  health,  and  sufficient- 
ly easy  in  fit  not  to  impede  growth  or  a 
free  use  of  the  limbs :  strong  shoes  or 
boots  to  protect  the  feet  from  damp,  and 
a  proper  allowance  of  sleep  taken  at  regu- 
lar hours, — no  child  under  six  years  of 
age  being  suffered  to  sit  up  after  eight 
o'clock,  and  all  under  twelve  being  safe- 
ly in  bed  by  nine. 

Late  hours,  hot,  crowded  places,  as 
theatres,  &c.,  and  children's  parties,  are 
all  very  destructive  of  health ;  irregulari- 
ties of  all  kinds  are  to  be  avoided,  such 
as  too  long  walks,  any  great  excitement 
or  over-fatigue ;  for  growing  children 
require  all  their  strength  and  energies  for 
natural  purposes;  and  being  more  ex- 
citable than  grown  persons,  exhaust 
themselves  the  sooner. 

It  may  be  thought  by  some  that  we 
are  diverging  from  our  subject,  but  "  our 
housewife,"  if  she  be  now  single,  may 
have  younger  sisters  and  brothers,  and 
may  probably  one  day  have  children  of 
her  own,  when  she  will  learn 

"  How  infinite  the  wealth  of  love  and  hope, 
Garnered  in  those  same  tiny  treasure  houses !     % 
And  oh  1  what  bankrupts  in  the  world  we  feel, 
When  death,  like  some  remorseless  creditor, 
Seizes  on  all  we  fondly  thought  our  own." 

At  all  events,  the  care  of  children  is 
one  of  woman's  most  solemn  responsi- 
bilities— one  of  the  most  sacred  of  all 
the  trusts  committed  to  her  care;  for 
has  not  a  child  an  immortal  soul  ? 

Those  who  live  much  among  children 
should  carefully  purify  their  every 
thought,  word,  and  action, — for  the  duc- 
tile and  impressionable  nature  of  a  child, 
chameleon-like,  takes  its  hue  from  that  of 
the  characters  which  surround  it.  "  The 
seeds  of  first  instructions  are  dropped 
into  the  deepest  furrows;"  therefore 
we  cannot  omit  this  chapter  of  our 
•;  Thoughts  and  Maxims." 

If  we  would  cultivate  a  flower  with 


success,  we  plant  it  in  a  fitting  soil,  we 
water  it  at  proper  times,  we  give  to  it  its 
due  proportion  of  air  and  sun ;  shall  we 
not  equally  study  the  constitution  and 
physical  requirements  of  a  child,  in  order 
to  bestow  upon  H  the  requisite  nurture  ? 
'or  children,  like  flowers,  require  study — 
all  are  not  equally  hardy,  equally  vigor- 
ous, equally  beautiful.  Some  resemble 
tiot^house  plants,  and  are  frail  and  deli- 
cate; others,  like  the  hardy  evergreen, 
can  bear  and  brave  change  of  temperature 
and  hardship.  The  system  which  would 
be  suitable  for  one  of  "these  natures  would 
be  injurious  to  the  other — hence,  judg- 
ment is  needful. 

Again,  if  we  would  train  a  vine  so  as 
to  render  it  luxuriant  and  productive  of 
fine  fruit,  we  bestow  much  pains,  on  the 
arrangement  of  each  branch ;  we  do  not 
neglect  the  smallest  shoot,  or  wantonly 
injure  or  twist  the  least  branch;  if  we 
prune,  we  do  so  but  to  remove  that 
which  might  militate  against  the  health 
or  produce  of  the  teee.  Shall  we  bestow 
less  culture  upon  the  moral  education 
of  a  child?  Shall  we  not,  with  equal 
care,  endeavor  to  remove  each  evil  pro- 
pensity, and  foster  each  good  disposition  ? 
Is  not  the  fruit  of  tenfold  more  import- 
ance ?  Pure  and  innocent  is  the  mind 
of  a  child ;  let  no  care  be  spared  to  pre- 
serve it  so.  Those  who  would  govern 
children  by  harshness  greatly  err;  a 
child  never  loves  the  person  it  fears; 
besides,  all  fear  is  more  or  less  slavish 
and  degrading.  Rather  teach  them  to 
act  rightly  from  a  sense  of  what  is  right 
and  what  is  wrong ;  found  their  obedi- 
ence on  affection;  give  tuem  principles 
of  action,  and  teach  them  to  reason  and , 
think,  and,  above  all,  make  religion  their 
guiding  star. 

A  child  who  fears  God  and  honors  hi? 
parents  is  armed  for  the  world's  warfare 
with  a  breast-plate,  which,  if  not  invul- 
nerable, at  least  will  turn  aside  many  an 


50 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


arrow.  Our  favorite  Tupper  quaintly 
but  truly  says:— "When  his  reason 
yieldeth  fruit,  make  thy  child  thy  friend, 
for  a  filial  friend  is  double  gain,  a  diamond 
set  in  gold.  As  an  infant  thy  mandate 
was  enough ;  as  he  grows  in  years,  let 
him  hear  thy  reasons."  Believe  me,  we 
wantonly  trifle  not  only  with  our  own 
happiness,  but  with  that  of  those  little 
ones  committed  to  our  charge,  when  we 
neglect  to  watch  over  the  treasures  we 
ought  so  dearly  to  prize,  when  we  trifle 
with  the  hearts,  minds,  and  souls  of  our 
children,  ignoring  their  value,  our  re- 
sponsibility, and  the  awful  reckoning 
which  will  be  required  of  us.  We  are 
all  too  apt  to  treat  children  as  dolls,  to 
dress  and  caress  them  one  hour,  and 
send  them  out  of  our  way  the  next, 
not  deeming  that  beneath  the  seeming 
thoughtless  gaiety  of  those  little  ones 
there  lurks  a  world  of  feeling  and  sensi- 
bility. Kindness  is  as  necessary  to 
them  as  daily  food.  We  do  not  mean 
false  indulgence,  but  considerate  kind- 
ness. An  unjust,  a  cold  or  harsh  word 
or  action,  especially  if  undeserved,  pene- 
trates the  heart  of  a  child  with  as  keen  a 
sting  as  it  does  ours ;  and  who  shall  say 
how  many  have  grown  up  callous  and 
reckless  from  having  their  first  affections 
blunted,  their  feelings  and  wishes  disre- 
garded ?  Consistent  practice  is  worth  a 
whole  world  of  precept,  and  example 
will  influence  while  words  or  coercion 
are  fruitless. 

Once  more,  then,  we  would  beg  "  our 
housewife  "  to  study  what  are  her  duties 
towards  children.  We  would  entreat 
mothers  so  to  train  their  daughters  that 
they  may  never  have  cause  to  blush  and 
tremble  for  their  grandchildren.  It  is 
no  figure  of  speech  to  say  that  "  the  child 
is  father  to  the  man ; "  study  diligently, 
therefore,  how  best 

"  —to  rear  the  tender  thought, 
To  tench  the  young  idea  how  to  eboot ; 
'    To  pour  fresh  instruction  o'er  the  mind, 


To  breathe  the  enlivening  spirit,  and  to  fix 
The  generous  purpose  in  the  glorying  breast." 

Nor  let  children,  who  should  be  oui 
blessings,  become  our  torments 

"  "While  young  our  folly,  and  when  old  our  fear." 

Lastly,  but  not  of  the  least  importance 
in  the  good  training  of  children  it  should 
be  rigidly  observed  by  parents,  never  to 
show  any  difference  of  opinion  in  their 
treatment  before  them.  Nothing  can  be 
more  pernicious  to  their  moral  culture, 
engendering  in  them  habits  of  disobedi- 
ence, for  they  cannot  obey  one  parent 
without  disobeying  the  other.  We  ear- 
nestly recommend  attention  to  this  ob- 
servance ;  for,  besides  the  evil»of  disobedi- 
ence that  is  almost  sure  to  follow  a  dif- 
ference in  opinion  from  those  in  authority 
over  the  child,  the  latter  is  sometimes 
prone  to  disregard  the  instructions  and 
admonitions  of  both,  and  set  up  princi- 
ples of  his  own,  more  in  accordance  with 
his  inclinations,  however  erroneous  they 
may  be. 

A  chapter  is  devoted  to  cookery  for 
children. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

ANOTHER  duty,  of  great  importance, 
devolves  on  woman ;  namely — the  care  of 
the  sick.  From  the  highest  to  the  low- 
est none  are,  properly  speaking,  exempt 
from  this  charge.  'Tis  true  that  those 
who  are  rich  can  hire  experienced  nurses, 
but  still  the  responsibility,  the  anxiety, 
rests  with  the  mistress,  for  she  cannot 
hire  affection,  thoughtful  care,  and  all 
those  little  attentions  which  make  the 
sole  comfort  of  an  invalid ;  she  can 
merely  secure  a  species  of  human  ma- 
chine which  mechanically  performs  its 
duties,  and  between  whiles  eats,  drinks, 
sleeps,  and  comforts  itself.  There  are 
many  excellent  and  kind-hearted  profes- 


CARE   OF   THE   SICK. 


51 


eional  nurses,  but  there  are  also  more 
who"  become,  as  it  were,  petrified  by  the 
habitual  contemplation  of  suffering,  and 
who  merely  regard  the  patient  with  an 
eye  to  business. 

In  a  sick  room  the  kindness  and  atten- 
tion of  the  nurse  often  work  far  greater 
marvels  than  the  skill  of  the  doctor,  for  she 
is  there  every  hour,  she  sees  every  change, 
and  can  minister  to  many  little  wants. 
Those  trifles  which  make  up  the  events 
of  an  invalid,  those  minor  details,  so  un- 
important to  a  person  in  health,  those 
whims,  and  desires,  and  nervous  suscep- 
tibilities which  appear  almost  childish  to 
lookers-on,  will  be  studied  by  a  good, 
conscientious  nurse,  and  overlooked  or 
disregarded  by  one  who  either  does  not 
feel  interested  in  the  patient,  or  has  not 
sufficient  sympathy  to  induce  her  to  study 
these  matters.  In  the  former  case,  the 
invalid  will  be  soothed  and  cheered ;  in 
the  latter,  irritated  and  depressed.  Sure- 
ly it  is  not  difficult  to  conceive  which 
influence  must  act  most  beneficially  upon 
the  system. 

Gentleness,  watchfulness,  firmness, 
judgment,  some  delicacy  of  feeling  and 
savoir  faire,  and  a  truly  Christian  spirit, 
are  the  distinguishing  characteristics 
which  will  best  adapt  a  woman  for  fulfil- 
ling this  phase  of  her  duties.  There  are 
many  who,  from  intense  solicitude  or 
romantic  devotion,  will  give  way  to  those 
impulses  of  feeling  which  lead  them  to 
devote  themselves  so  entirely  to  the  nurs- 
ing of  some  beloved  relative,  that  all 
other  duties,  and  even  self,  are  wholly 
forgotten.  What  is  the  consequence  of 
this  error  of  judgment?  Their  own 
health  succumbs,  and  they  become  not 
only  useless,  but  render  themselves 
sources  of  trouble  and  anxiety.  How 
much  better  to  have  husbanded  their 
strength  so  as  to  be  able  to  remain  use- 
ful! That  despised  article,  common 
sense,  would  teach  us  all  so  much  if  we 
would  but  stop  to  listen ;  if  we  would  not 


mount,  each  one,  our  own  peculiar  hobby, 
and  gallop  off  at  a  tremendous  rate,  heed- 
less of  all  sign-posts,  and  often  regardless 
of  even  hedges  and  ditches.  Affection  ! 
feeling !  sentiment !  nerves !  how  much 
has  been  done  and  left  undone  in  these 
names !  while  poor  dear  common  sense 
has  been  decried  as  a  most  unfeeling  per- 
son, and  rudely  ejected  when  she  strove 
to  make  herself  heard. 

Yet  in  few  places  is  common  sense  a 
more  valuable  assistant  than  in  the  sick 
room ;  aided  by  self-command  and  good 
feeling,  she  will  transform  the  most  un- 
initiated person  into  an  excellent  and  effi- 
cient nurse.  Let  us  hear  a  few  of  her 
fundamental  principles. 

Speak  in  a  low  but  perfectly  distinct 
voice,  both  to  the  invalid  and  to  any  one 
who  enters  the  room,  in  order  that,  al- 
though no  unnecessary  sound  may  be 
heard,  the  patient's  ear  may  not  be  fa- 
tigued by  striving  to  catch  the  words, 
or  excited  by  mutterings  or  whispers  ad- 
dressed to  some  one  else. 

Let  your  countenance  be  calm  and 
cheerful,  your  manners  soothing  and 
hopeful,  and  your  words  such  as  may 
cheer  or  comfort  the  mind. 

Avoid  all  fuss,  all  hasty  movements, 
all  noises  that  may  startle  or  disturb ;  let 
even  your  dress  and  shoes  be  chosen  with 
reference  to  quiet. 

Keep  everything  in  its  place,  so  that  in 
an  instant  you  can  put  your  hand  on  it 
when  required;  have  hot  water,  clean 
cups,  spoons,  glasses,  and  well-aired  body 
and  bed  linen  always  handy ;  let  the  air 
of  the  room  be  changed  frequently ;  avoid 
all  bad  smells,  or  remove  them  as  soon  as 
possible  ;  pay  strict  attention  to  the  tem- 
perature of  the  chamber,  and  keep  it  as 
even  as  may  be ;  and  regulate  the  light 
with  equal  care. 

The  furniture  of  a  sick  room  should  be 
adapted  to  the  wants  of  the  invalid.  A 
reciining-chair  will  be  found  convenient : 
and  a  rocking-chair  for  exercise,  with  a 


52 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPEK. 


movable  one  for  those  who  cannot  walk. 
The  bedstead  should  be  contrived  to  af- 
ford ease  by  change  of  position.  Dr. 
Arnott's  hydrostatic  bed  has  been  men- 
tioned as  particularly  useful  for  invalids. 

All  food  offered  to  invalids  should  be 
daintily  prepared,  and  presented  in  the 
most  careful  manner.  How  often,  when 
one  has  been  longing  for  food,  has  he 
turned  from  it  with  disgust,  because  he 
has  seen  the  nurse  cool  it  with  her  breath, 
or  taste  it,  and  then  drt>p  the  spoon  back 
into  it,  and  present  it.  Nor  is  it  well  to 
inquire  of  invalids  what  shall  be  got  for 
them.  If  they  express  a  wish  foi  some 
particular  thing,  well  and  good,  let  it  be 
got  for  them,  if  reasonable ;  but  a  trifling 
delicacy  unexpectedly  brought  will  often 
tempt  the  appetite ;  besides,  a  sick  per- 
son, or  even  a  convalescent,  is  often  too 
languid  to  be  at  the  trouble  of  thinking 
about  eating,  and  would  sooner  go  with- 
out;  or  if  he  or  she  chooses  something, 
it  may  be  the  very  thing  which  would  be 
improper  or  prejudicial,  and  then  comes 
"disappointment,  and  a  species  of  disgust 
for  all  else,  for  in  illness  the  appetite  is 
ever  capricious. 

Nowhere  is  cleanliness  of  such  para- 
mount importance  as  in  the  sick  room. 
Do  not  let  us  be  misunderstood  here. 
We  do  not  mean  that  an  immensity  of 
sweeping,  scouring,  and  dusting  is  to  be 
done,  but  simply  that  the  chamber  must 
be  kept  clean  and  ventilated,  that  the  bed 
and  body  linen  must  be  changed  often 
enough  to  refresh  without  fatiguing  the 
patient,  and  that  the  air  must  be  purified 
by  means  of  vinegar,  or  other  disinfect- 
ants. 

As  there  are  so  many  kinds  of  illness, 
no  general  rules  can  be  'laid  down,  and 
our  friend,  common  sense,  must  be  allow- 
ed to  be  the  special  adviser.  In  one  case 
body  and  mind  may  be  paralyzed  by 
weakness  or  languor ;  in  another  the  body 
may  be  agonized,  and  yet  the  mind  clear 


and  active;  while  in  a  third  the  body 
may  be  sane,  the  mind  insane.  IRnce 
no  one  who  is  a  mere  machine,  guided  by 
certain  rules,  can  be  a  good  and  efficient 
nurse  j  no  one  who  does  not  study  how 
to  minister  to  the  mind  as  well  as  the 
body,  who  will  not  endeavor,  to  a  certain 
extent,  to  identify  herself  with  the  tastes, 
feelings,  and  even  prejudices  of  the  pa- 
tient, can  be  really  useful. 

What  we  have  hitherto  said  applies 
chiefly  to  adult  patients ;  to  nurse  a  sick 
child  may  seem  a  far  easier  task,  but  is 
not  so.  What  gentleness,  firmness,  play- 
fulness, and,  above  all,  what  patience  is 
needed  in  the  sick  chamber  of  a  child ! — 
for  in  time  of  illness,  a  child  is  doubly  a 
child,  almost  a  baby  again. 

Every  housekeeper  should  always  have 
a  store  of  old  linen,  cambric,  and  calico 
rags,  and  old  pieces  of  flannel ;  these  are 
easily  obtained  by  saving  worn-out  linen, 
flannel,  and  other  garments,  or  at  least 
the  useful  portions  of  them,  and  treasur- 
ing old  silk  and  cambric  handkerchiefs. 
Such  things  are  invaluable  in  time  of 
sickness  for  poultices,  fomentations, 
leeches,  &c.  Those  who  have  them  not 
will  do  well  to  visit  a  pawnshop,  or  the 
emporium  of  one  of  those  purchasers  of 
wardrobes ;  and  having  there  found  one 
or  two  articles  of  no  value  but  to  be  torn 
up,  to  buy  these,  bring^them  home,  have 
them  thoroughly  washed,  and  then  put 
them  away  for  use. 

It  may  seem  to  some  that  we  dwell  too 
long  on  a  sad  and  painful  subject,  but  it 
is  good  for  us  at  times  to  be  serious,  to 
turn  from  the  contemplation  of  life's 
pleasures  and  enjoyments,  and  look  upon 
its  darker  pages ;  for  it  has  been  beauti- 
fully said  by  an  eminent  writer,  that 
"  suffering  is  not  a  slender,  dark  thread, 
winding  every  now  and  then  through  a 
warp  of  dazzling  brightness,  but  it  is  in- 
terwoven with  the  whole  texture.  It  is 
not  incidental,  but  designed  for  us;  it 


CARE   OF   THE   SICK. 


53 


enters  into  God's'-fmrposes ;  it  has  a  great 
work  to  do,  and  we  know  nothing  of  life 
until  we  comprehend  its  purposes." 
Again :  "  Suffering  nourishes  the  tender- 
est  sympathies  of  our  nature ;  it  raises 
us  to  energy  and  a  consciousness  of  our 
own  powers,  and  at  the  same  time  in- 
fuses the  meekest  dependence  on  God; 
it  stimulates  us  to  cherish  and  prize  the 
blessings  of  this  world,  and  at  the  same 
time  weans  us  from  and  lifts  us  above 
mere  earthly  things." 

There  is  no  home  into  which  sickness 
may  not  come  at  any  hour ;  and  as  it  is 
to  woman  that  the  office  of  nurse  is  in-» 
variably  delegated,  surely  every  woman 
ought  to  learn  betimes  all  that  will  best 
qualify  her  to  become  the  ministering 
angel,  whose  presence  shall  bless  thejong 
hours   of  pain  and  confinement.     False 
delicacy,  foolish  weakness,  and  all  that 
can  militate  against  usefulness,  should  be 
early  overcome.     We  have  seen  a  daugh- 
ter scream,  and  weep,   and  wring  her 
hands,  while  her  mother  lay  fainting  be- 
fore her  ;  we  have  seen  a  mother  shriek 
and  fall  on  her  knees,  and  utter  words  of 
agony,  when  some  accident  happened  to 
her  child.     But  how  did  all  this  unavail- 
ing   grief  benefit  the   sufferers?     How 
much  better  she  does,  who,  controlling 
her  feelings,  thinks  only  how  she  can  ad- 
minister relief.     Some  might  deem  her 
callous,  but  others  know  what  real  feel- 
ing is  concealed  behind  the  pale   face 
white  compressed  lips,  and  quivering  eye- 
lids ;  to  utter  it  might  weaken  her,  anc 
incapacitate    her    from    rendering    tha 
prompt   assistance  which  may  even  be 
requisite  to  preserve  life.     It  is  our  pri 
vate  opinion,  that  every  woman  shoulc 
have  a  general  knowledge  of  the  anatorm 
of  the  human  frame,  and  of  the  function 
of   its  various    organs;    also,  that  she 
should  be  acquainted  with  chemistry  t 
a  sufficient  extent  to  prevent  her  from 
committing  absurd  errors  in  cookery,  o 
in  the  making  of  perfumes,  cosmetics 
4 


and  pomades,  or  pickles  and  confection- 
iry ;  and  to  this  we  would  add,  that  she 
will  find  it  useful  to  understand  the  qual- 
ties  and  action  of  the  drugs  and  medica- 
ments in  most  common  use,  in  order  that 
he  may  not  administer  them  to  herself, 
>r  any  members  of  her  family  "  promiscu- 
>usly,"  but  with  some  slight  notion  of 
what  she  is  about.  We  do  not,  however, 
mean  to  advise  "  our  housewife  "  to  prac- 
ise  quackery  on  herself  or  those  belong- 
ng  to  her ;  for  many  a  constitution  has 
)een  ruined  by  injudicious  physicking; 
)ut  there  are  cases  in  which  some  house- 
lold  remedy,  promptly  applied,  will  often 
prevent  a  long  illness,  and  then  every 
one  should  know  how  to  act. 

Women  should  understand  the  making 
and  applying  of  poultices,  leeches,  fomen- 
tations, warm  baths,  and  similar  things ; 
but  how  few  do !  They  may  fancy  them- 
selves clever  in  such  matters.  We  have 
known  a  young  person  who  rushed  head- 
long on  in  everything  of  the  kind  she  un- 
dertook ;  made  a  poultice  in  the  kitchen, 
and  wondered  that  it  was  cold  as  ice  by 
the  time  she  had  carried  it  up  to  the 
second  floor ;  applied  fomentations,  and 
damped  the  bed  and  night-clothes,  so  that 
a  chill,  instead  of  heat,  was  produced. 

In  another  portion  of  our  book  is  given 
a  large  list  of  articles  of  food  for  invalids, 
with  directions  for  cooking ;  and  also  a 
chapter  containing  remarks  on  diseases 
common  in  families. 


CHAPTER  X. 

THE   STORE-ROOM   AND   MARKETING. 

IT  must  be  borne  in  mind  that  an  in- 
ventory of  furniture,  linen,  and  china 
should  be  kept,  and  the  things  examined 
by  it  twice  a  year,  or  oftener  if  there  be 
a  change  of  servants ;  the  articles  used 
by  servants  should  be  intrusted  to  their 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


care,  with  a  list,  as  is  done  with  plate 
In  articles  not  in  common  use,  such  as 
spare  bedding,  tickets  of  parchment,  num- 
bered and  specifying  to  what  they  belong 
should  be  sewed  on  each;  and  minor 
artielco  in  ddly  use,  such  as  household 
cloths  and  kitchen  requisites,  should  be 
occasionally  looked  to.  The  best  means 
to  preserve  blankets  from  moths  is  to 
fold  and  lay  them  under  the  feather-beds 
that  are  in  use,  and  shake  them  occasion- 
ally ;  when  soiled,  they  should  be  wash- 
ed, not  scoured. 

A  proper  quantity  of  household  arti- 
cles should  always  be  allowed  for  daily 
use.  Each  should  also  be  kept  in  its  proper 
place,  and  applied  io  its  proper  use.  Let 
all  repairs  be  done  as  soon  as  wanted, 
remembering  the  old  ada^e  of  "  a  stitch 
in  time ; "  and  never  if  possible,  defer  any 
necessary  household  duty  a  moment 
beyond  the  time  when  it  ought  to  be  at- 
tended to. 


Refrigerator. 

A  Store-room  is  essential  for  the  cus- 
t3(ly  of  articles  in  constant  use,  as  well 
as  for  others  which  are  only  occasionally 


called  for.  These  should  be  at  hand 
when  wanted,  each  in  separate  drawers, 
or  on  shelves  and  pegs,  all  under  the  lock 
and  key  of  the  mistress,  and  never  given 
out  to  the  servants  but  under  her  inspec- 
tion. 

Pickles  and  preserves,  prepared  and 
purchased  sauces,  and  all  sorts  of  groce- 
ries, should  be  there  stored ;  the  spices 
pounded  and  corked  up  in  small  bottles, 
sugar  broken,  and  everything  in  readiness 
for  use.  Lemon-peel,  thyme,  parsley, 
and  all  sorts  cf  sweet  herbs,  should  be 
dried  and  grated  fcr  use  in  seasons  of 
plenty;  the  tcps  of  tongues  saved,  and 
dried  for  grating  into  omelets,  &c. ;  and 
care  taken  that  nothing  be  wasted  that 
can  be  turned  to  good  account. 

Bread  is  so  heavy  an  article  of  expense 
that  all  waste  should  be  guarded  against, 
and  having  it  cut  in  the  room  will  tend 
much  to  prevent  it ;   but,  for  company,    * 
small  rolls,  placed  in  or  on  the  napkin  of 
each  guest,  are  the  most  convenient,  as 
well  as  the  most  elegant.     Bread  should 
kept  in  earthern  pans  with  covers. 
Sugar  being  also  an  article  of  consider- 
able expense  in  all  families,  the  purchase 
demands  particular  attention.  The  cheap- 
est does  not  go  so  far  as  that  better  re- 
ined, and  there  is  a  difference  even  in 
he    degree    of   sweetness.     The   close, 
icavy,  and  shining  white,  or  loaf-sugar, 
hould  be  chosen.  The  best  sort  of  brown 
las  a  bright,  crystalline  appearance,  as  if 
mixed  with  salt,  and  if  feeling  coarse  when 
rubbed  between  the  fingers,  is  better  than 
when  more  powdery.    East  India  sugars 
ire  finer  for  the  price,  but  not  so  strong; 
onsequently,  unfit  for  wines  and  sweet- 
meats, they  do  well  for  common  purposes. 
To  pound  white  sugar,  rolling  it  with  a 
)ottle,  and  sifting,  wastes  it  less  than  a 
mortar. 

Both  soap  and  tallow  candles  are  im- 

roved  by  keeping,  and  are  best  when 

made  in  cool  weather ;  at  which  time  it 

will  be  prudent  to  lay  in  a  stock  of  both. 

They  are,  indeed,  better  for  being  kept 


THE   STORE-ROOM. 


55 


eight  or  ten  months,  nor  will  they  spoil 
for  two  years  if  kept  in  a  cool  place ;  and 
there  are  few  articles  that  better  deserve 
care  in  buying,  and  allowing  a  regulated 
quantity  of,  according  to  the  size  of  the 
family. 

Wax,  spermaceti,  and  Composite  can- 
dles ought  to  be  always  purchased  in 
quantities  of  not  less  than  a  dozen  pounds, 
on  which  an  allowance  is  usually  made. 

Soap  should  be  cut  in  pieces  that  will 
make  a  long  square,  when  first  brought 
in;  and  kept  out  of  the  air  two  or  three 
weeks ;  for,  if  it  dries  quickly,  it  will 
crack,  and,  when  wet,  break.  Put  it  on 
a  shelf,  leaving  a  space  between  each 
piece,  and  let  it  grow  hard  gradually ; 
thus  it  will  save  a  full  third  in  the  con- 
sumption ;  but,  for  coarse  washing,  soft 
soap  will  go  further  than  the  hard. 

Soda,  by  softening  the  water,  saves  a 
great  deal  of  soap.  It  shoul^  be  melted 
in  a  large  ewer  of  water,  some  of  which 
pour  into  the  tubs  and  boiler ;  and  when 
the  latter  becomes  weak  add  more. 


Self-Heating  Flat  Iron. 

Many  good  laundresses  advise  soaping 
linen  in  warm  water  the  night  previous 
to  washing,  as  facilitating  the  operation 
with  less  friction.  This  should  always 
be  done  with  fine  muslins  and  laces. 

The  ^rice  of  starch  depends  upon  that 
of  flour  ;  the  best  will  keep  good  in  a  dry 
warm  room  for  some  years. 


Everything  should  be  kept  in  the  place 
best  suited  to  it,  as  much  waste  may 
thereby  be  avoided. 

Great  care  should  be  taken  of  jelly- 
bags,  tapes  for  collared  things,  &c.,  which, 
if  not  perfectly  scalded  and  kept  dry,  give 
an  unpleasant  flavor  when  next  used. 

Vegetables  will  keep  best  on  a  stone 
floor,  if  the  air  be  excluded ;  meat  in  a 
cold  dry  place,  where  the  air  is  freely 
admitted ;  sugar  and  sweetmeats  require 
a  dry  place,  so  does  salt ;  candles,  cold, 
but  not  damp ;  dried  meats,  hams,  bacon, 
and  tongues,  the  same.  All  sorts  of  seed 
for  puddings,  such  as  rice,  &c.,  should  be 
covered  close  to  preserve  them  from  in- 
sects ;  but  if  kept  long  that  will  not  be 
sufficient,  unless  they  be  occasionally 
sifted.  Apples  and  pears  should  be  laid 
upon  very  clean  and  dry  straw,  to  pre- 
vent a  musty  taste ;  nor  should  they  be 
exposed  to  either  light  or  air.  The 
floor  of  a  dark  garret  is  a  good  place  in 
which  to  deposit  them ;  or,  which  is  still 
better,  shelves  made  by  strips  of  wood 
about  two  inches  wide,  placed  an  inch 
and  a  half  apart,  and  the  apples  laid  be- 
tween them.  They  should  be  ranged 
singly  in  rows,  without  touching  each 
other,  and  should  be  often  inspected,  both 
to  wipe  them,  if  damp,  and  to  reject  those 
which  may  appear  to  be  getting  rotten ; 
but  the  larger  sort  of  pears  should  be  tied 
up  by  the  stalk.  Apples  may  also  be 
preserved  in  excellent  condition  for  a  long 
period  by  being  packed  in  large  barrels 
with  dry  sand,  but  require  to  be  used 
immediately  when  they  are  taken  out. 

Coarse  nets  suspended  in  the  store- 
room are  very  useful  in  preserving  the 
finer  kinds  of  fruit,  lemons,  &c.,  which 
are  spoiled  if  allowed  to  touch.  When 
lemons  and  oranges  are  cheap,  a  proper 
quantity  should  be  bought  and  prepared, 
both  for  preserving  the  juice,  and  keeping 
the  peel  for  sweetmeats  and  grating; 
especially  by  those  who  live  in  the  coun- 
try, where  they  cannot  always  be  had. 


56 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


They  are  perpetually  wanted  in  cook- 
ery. 

The  best  way  of  scalding  fruits,  or 
boiling  vinegar,  is  in  a  stone  jar,  on  a  hot 
iron  hearth,  or  by  putting  the  vessel  into 
a  saucepan  of  boiling  water,  called  a  wa- 
ter-bath, after  its  having  been  closely 
corked,  but  not  quite  filled,  as  the  heat 
may  occasion  the  fruits  to  swell ;  but  if 
they  diminish  after  this  is  done,  the 
vessel  must  then  be  filled. 

Onions,  shallots,  and  garlic  should  be 
hung  up  for  winter  use  in  ropes  from  the 
ceiling;  as  should  dried  parsley,  basil, 
savory,  and  knotted-marjoram,  or  Lon- 
don-thyme, and  tarragon,  to  be  used 
when  herbs  are  ordered,  but  with  discre- 
tion, as  they  are  very  pungent. 

Hams  should  be  well  covered  in  paper 
bags,  and  put  in  a  chest  or  barrel,  with 
layers  of  charcoal  or  ashes  between. 
When  you  take  one  out  to  cut  for  use, 
put  it  away  in  a  dark  place,  well  covered. 

Herbs  should  be  kept  from  the  air. 
Herb  tea,  to  do  any  good,  should  be  made 
very  strong.  Herbs  must  be  gathered 
while  in  blossom.  Those  who  have  a 
little  ground  will  do  well  to  raise  the 
most  useful  herbs;  apothecaries  make 
large  profits  on  them. 

Suet  and  lard  keep  better  in  tin  than 
earthen-ware.  Suet  keeps  good  a  year, 
if  chopped,  packed  in  a  stone  jar,  and 
covered,  with  molasses.  Or,  pick  suet 
free  from  veins  and  skin,  melt  it  in  water 
before  a  moderate  fire,  let  it  cool  till  it 
forms  a  hard  cake,  then  wipe  it  dry  and 
put  it  in  clean  paper,  in  linen  bags. 

MAEKETING. 

Although  respectable  butchers  may, 
in  most  cases,  be  relied  upon  for  the  good- 
ness of  the  meat  which  they  sell  to  regu- 
lar customers,  yet  many  persons  (both 
ladies  and  gentlemen)  go  to  market  and 
choose  for  themselves,  when,  if  not  com- 
petent judges,  the  inferior  sorts  generally 
fall  to  their  lot.  In  country  towns,  also, 


there  are  frequently  but  one  or  two  mar- 
ket-days in  the  week;  and  the  meat 
being  brought  from  a  distance,  it  is  an 
essential  point  of  good  housekeeping  to 
be  so  well  acquainted  with  the  quality  as 
not  to  be  easily  imposed  upon. 

BEEF. — Well-fed  beef  may  be  known 
by  the  texture  and  color ;  the  lean  will 
exhibit  an  open  grain  of  deep  coral-red, 
and  the  fat  will  appear  of  a  healthy,  oily 
smoothness,  rather  inclining  to  white 
than  yellow.  The  suet  firm  and  white. 
Yellow  fat  is  a  test  of  meat  of  an  inferior 
quality.  Heifer  beefMs  but  little  inferior 
to  ox  beef;  the  lean  is  of  a  closer  grain,  the 
red  paler,  and  the  fat  whiter.  Cow  beef  may 
be  detected  by  the  same  signs,  save  that 
the  older  the  beast  the  texture  of  the 
meat  will  appear  closer,  and  the  flesh 
coarser  to  the  sight,  as  well  as  harder  to 
the  touch.  The  grain  of  bull  beef  is 
coarser  and  closer  still,  the  fat  hard  and 
skinny,  the  lean  of  a  deep  red,  and  it  has 
a  stronger  scent.  Ox  beef  is  the  richest 
and  largest;  but  in  small  families,  and 
to  some  tastes,  heifer  beef  is  preferred, 
if  finely  fed.  In  old  meat,  a  streak  of 
horn  runs  between  the  fat  and  lean  of 
the  sirloin  and  ribs ;  the  harder  this  is, 
the  older,  and  the  flesh  is  not  finely  fla- 
vored; that  is  to  say,  the  horn  has 
become  so  firm  as  to  appear  like  bone; 
but  oxen  are  always  the  better  if  kept 
until  five  or*ix  years  old. 

Ox  TONGUE.— To  choose  a  neat's 
tongue,  it  should  be  of  moderate  size, 
plump,  firm,  and  smooth  to  the  touch ; 
for  if  the  skin  appears  rough  and  shriv- 
elled, it  will  be  found  hard  and  flavor- 
less. 

VEAL. — When  you  observe  the  kidney 
well  surrounded  with  fat,  you  may  be 
sure  the  meat  is  of  good  quality.  The 
whitest  is  not  the  best  ..veal;  but  the 
flesh  of  the  bull-calf  is  of  a  brighter  color 
than  that  of  the  cow-calf.  The  fillet  of 
the  latter  is  generally  preferred  on  ac- 
count of  the  udder.  There  is  a  vein  in 


MARKETING. 


57 


the  shoulder  very  perceptible ;  and  its 
color  indicates  the  freshness  of  the  meat ; 
if  a  bright  red  or  blue,  it  is  recently  kill- 
ed ;  if  any  green  or  yellow  spots  are  visi- 
ble, it  is  stale.  The  suet  will  be  flabby, 
and  the  kidney  will  smell.  The  other 
parts  should  be  dry  and  white ;  if  clam- 
my or  spotted,  the  meat  is  stale  and  bad. 
If  more  than  eight  or  ten  weeks  old,  the 
flesh  becomes  coarse.  You  will,  of  course, 
get  it  somewhat  cheaper,  and  it  may,  to 
some  palates,  be  found  equally  good  in 
flavor,  but  not  so  delicate  in  either  the 
color  or  the  texture  of  the  flesh. 

MUTTON. — The  best  is  of  a  fine  grain, 
a  bright  color,  the  fat  firm  and  white. 
It  is  better  for  being  full-grown.  The 
ram  mutton  may  be  known  by  the  red- 
ness of  the  flesh,  and  the  sponginess  of 
the  fat.  The  flesh  of  the  ewe  is  paler, 
and  the  texture  finer,  but  neither  the 
meat  nor  gravy  so  well  flavored,  though 
a  "  maiden  ewe,"  when  it  can  be  got,  is 
considered  particularly  fine.  If  you  wish 
to  have  a  good  haunch,  choose  one  of 
small  size  and  moderately  fat,  looking  at 
the  same  time  to-  the  closeness  of  the 
grain  and  the  whiteness  of  the  fat ;  but 
more  particularly  see  that  the  flesh  is 
dark-colored,  that  being  a  proof  of  age, 
and  the  older  the  better.  In  boiled  mut- 
ton this  is  not  of  so  much  importance  as 
in  roasted. 

LAMB  should  be  eaten  very  fresh.  In 
the  fore-quarter,  the  vein  in  the  neck 
being  any  other  color  than  blue  betrays 
it  to  be  stale.  In  the  hind-quarter,  try 
the  kidney  with  your  nose ;  the  faintness 
of  its  smell  will  prove  it  to  be  stale.  It 
loses  much  of  its  nicety  of  flavor  after  it 
reaches  four  months  old.  It  ought,  there- 
fore, to  be  small  and  white  in  appear- 
ance, and  well  covered  with  fat;  the 
younger  the  more  delicate. 

PORK.— The  rind  should  be  thin,  the 
fat  very  firm,  and  the  lean  white;  the 
principal  point  to  be  observed  is  the  firm- 


ness of  the  fat.  If  the  rind  is  tough, 
thick,  and  cannot  easily  be  impressed  by 
the  finger,  it  is  old.  Pigs  that  are  short 
in  the  legs  and  bodies,  and  have  thick 
necks,  and  not  long  heads  and  ears, 
are  always  to  be  preferred.  When  fresh| 
the  flesh  will  be  smooth  and  dry;  if 
clammy,  it  is  tainted.  What  is  called 
"measly  pork"  is  very  unwholesome, 
and  may  be  known  by  the  fat  being  full 
of  kernels.  Pork  fed  at  still-houses  does 
not  answer  for  curing  in  any  way,  the 
fat  being  spongy.  Dairy  pork  is  the 
best. 

Porkers  from  three  to  four  months 
old  are  the  most  delicate,  and  six  months 
is  the  latest  age  at  which  they  should  be 
killed  as  such. 

BACON.— If  the  rind  be  thin,  the  fat 
firm  and  of  a  reddish  tinge,  the  lean  ten- 
der, of  a  good  color,  and  adhering  to  the 
bone,  you  may  conclude  it  is  good  and 
not  old.  If  there  are  yellow  streaks  in 
it,  it  is  rusty. 

For  hams,  stick  a  sharp  knife  under 
the  bone,  and  also  up  to  the  knuckle.  If 
it  comes  out  with  a  pleasant  smell,  the 
ham  is  good ;  but  do  not  buy  it  if  the 
knife  has  a  bad  scent.  Hams  short  in 
the  hock  are  best;  nor  should  long-legged 
pigs  be  chosen  for  any  purpose. 

BRAWN. — The  horny  part  of  the  young 
brawn  will  feel  moderately  tender,  and 
the  flavor  will  be  better  than  the  old,  the 
rind  of  which  will  be  hard. 

VENISON.— The  fat  should  be  clear, 
bright,  and  thick ;  and  if  the  cleft  of  the 
haunch  be  smooth  and  close,  it  is  younr^ ; 
but  if  the  cleft  is  close  and  tough,  it  is 
old.  To  judge  of  its  sweetness,  run  a  very 
sharp  narrow  knife  into  the  shoulder  or 
haunch,  and  you  will  know  by  the  scent. 
Few  people  like  it  when  it  has  much  of 
the  haut-gout ;  but  it  bears  keeping  bet- 
ter than  any  sort  of  meat,  and  if  eaten 
fresh  killed  it  is  not  so  good  as  mutton. 
Observe  the  neck  of  a  fore-quarter ;  if  the 


58 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


vein  be  bluish,  it  is  fresh ;  if  it  have  a 
green  or  yellow  cast,  it  is  stale.  In  the 
hind-quarter,  if  there  is  a  faint  smell  un- 
der the  kidney,  and  the  knuckle  is  limp, 
the  meat  is  stale.  If  the  eyes  be  sunk, 
the  head  is  not  fresh.  When  you  can 
learn  where  it  has  been  reared,  choose 
forest- venison,  as  that  is  the  best;  for 
some  of  the  dealers  stall-feed  the  cleer, 
and  fatten  them  with  oil-cake.  It  should 
be  full  five  years  old. 

In  every  sort  of  provisions  the  best 
of  the  kind  goes  furthest,  cuts  up  to 
greatest  advantage,  and  affords  most 
nourishment.  Round  of  beef,  fillet  of  veal, 
and  leg  of  mutton,  are  joints  that  bear  a 
higher  price  ;  but  as  they  have  more  solid 
meat,  they  deserve  the  preference.  It  is 
worth  notice,  however,  that  those  joints 
which  are  inferior  may  be  dressed  as  pala- 
tably, and,  being  cheaper,  they  ought  to 
be  bought  hi  turn. 

In  loins  of  meat,  the  long  pipe  that 
runs  by  the  bone  should  be  taken  out,  as 
it  is  apt  to  taint ;  as  also  the  kernels  of 
beef.  Rumps  and  aitchbones  of  beef  are 
often  bruised  by  the  blows  the  drovers 
give  the  beasts,  and  the  part  that  has 
been  struck  always  taints  ;  therefore,  do 
not  purchase  these  joints  if  bruised. 

All  meat  should  be  carefully  examined, 
and  wiped  with  a  dry  cloth  as  soon  as  it 
comes  in ;  and  if  flies  have  blown  upon 
it,  the  part  must  be  cut  off.  This  should 
be  daily  observed  until  it  is  dressed,  as  it 
not  only  tends  to  preserve  the  meat  long 
in  peifection,  but  prevents  that  musty 
flavor  too  often  perceived  in  the  outer 
slice  when  brought  to  table. 

In  the  country,  where  meat  is  often 
carried  a  great  distance,  it  should  be  well 
covered  up  with  a  cloth,  over  which  fresh 
cabbag-e-leaves  would  keep  it  cool.  These 
cautions  are  more  needful,  as  in  some 
families  great  loss  is  sustained  by  the 
spoiling  of  meat.  The  fly  may  in  some 
measure  be  prevented  by  dusting  upon 
the  parts  most  likely  to  be  attacked,  pep- 


per and  ginger  mixed,  after  wiping 
which  should  never  be  omitted;  but  a 
more  easy  and  effectual*  mode  is  to  ex- 
clude the  fly  by  using  a  wire  meat-safe, 
or  to  cover  the  joints  with  a  long  loose 
gauze  or  thin  cloth,  and  hang  them  up 
from  the  ceiling  of  an  airy  chamber. 

In  summer  meat  should  be  wiped  every 
day,  or  sprinkled  with  popper  to  keep  off 
the  flies ;  and  should  it  wear  any  appear- 
ance of  becoming  tainted,  it  should  be 
brushed  over  with  pyroligneous  acid ;  or 
even  if  already  slightly  infected,  either 
the  acid  or  roughly-pounded  charcoal,  if 
well  rubbed  into  the  meat,  will  restore 
it.  The  meat  should  also  be  brought  in 
early  in  the  morning,  as,  if  mr.ch  ex- 
posed to  the  sun,  the  heat  will  render  it 
flabby.  In  frosty  weather,  meat  is  some- 
times in  a  congealed  state,  and  should  be 
thawed  by  soaking  it  in  cold  water  before 
putting  it  to  the  fire. 

Meats  become  more  tender,  and  conse- 
quently more  digestible,  as  well  as  better 
flavored,  by  hanging ;  but  veal  and  lamb 
will  not  bear  it  so  long  as  the  flesh  of 
older  animals.  In  summer,  two  days  is 
long  enough  for  lamb  and  veal,  and  from 
three  to  four  for  beef  and  mutton ;  in 
cold  weather,  these  latter  may  be  kept 
for  more  than  double  that  time  without 
risk  of  being  tainted. 

POULTET  AND  GAME. 

Turkey. — The  cock  bird  when  young 
has  a  smooth  black  leg  with  a  short  spur. 
The  eyes  bright  and  full,  and  moist  sup- 
ple feet  when  fresh ;  the  absence  of  these 
signs  denotes  age  and  staleness  ;  the  hen 
may  be  judged  by  the  same  rules. 

Fowls  like  a  turkey  ;  the  young  cock 
has  a  smooth  leg  and  a  short  spur ;  when 
fresh  the  vent  is  close  and  dark.  Hens 
when  young  have  smooth  legs  and  combs  5 
when  old  these  will  be  rough. 

Geese. — In  young  geese  the  feet  and 
bills  will  be  yellow  and  free  from  hair 


TO   CHOOSE   FISH. 


50 


When  fresh  the  feet  are  pliable;  they 
are  stiff  when  stale. 

Ducks  may  be  selected  by  the  same 
rule. 

Pigeons,  when  fresh,  have  supple  feet, 
and  the  vent  will  be  firm ;  if  it  be  dis- 
colored and  supple  they  are  stale. 

Plovers,  when  fat,  have  hard  vents; 
but,  like  almost  all  other  birds,  may  be 
chosen  by  the -same  rules. 

Other  game  birds  may  be  chosen  by 
the  above  rules. 

TO  CHOOSE  FISH. 

Pish. — In  every  sort  of  fish,  stiffness, 
redness  of  the  gills,  and  brightness  of  the 
eyes,  are  invariable  signs  of  freshness ; 
thickness  of  the  flesh  generally  marks 
the  good  condition  of  all  fifch,  and  its 
firmness  is  an  essential  requisite.  Fish, 
when  quite  fresh,  curl  round,  but  are  par- 
ticularly elastic,  rising  immediately  upon 
the  pressure  of  the  fingers;  and  their 
staleness  or  freshness  may  be  measured 
by  the  possibility  of  making  an  impres- 
sion. If  stale,  the  impression  will  re- 
main ;  but,  if  fresh,  it  will  rise  again  on 
removal  of  the  pressure. 

Salmon. — The  fish  stiff,  the  scales  very 
bright,  the  belly  thick,  the  gills  a  bril- 
liant color,  and  the  flesh  when  cut,  a 
beautiful  red,  will  prove  it  to  be  a  fine 
fresh  fish..  It  cannot  be  too  fresh. 

Cod.— The  best  fish  are  thick  at  the 
neck,  very   red  gills,  firm  white  flesh 
bright   and  blood-shot  eyes,  and   smal 
head.     The  liver  should  be  of  an  opaqu< 
white ;  the  whiter,  the  better  the  fish 
when   out  oi  season  the  liver  becomes 
red.     It  is  improved  by  being  crimped 
as  this  increases  its  firmness,  and  then 
it  requires  keeping  one  day  before  using 
Whitings. — A   clear  color   and  firm 
bodies,  indicate  a  superior  quality. 

Mackerel— Bright  eyes,  thick  bodies 
stripes  black  on  the  back,  the  prismati 
colors  very  predominant  on  the  belly 


lenote    freshness   and    goodness.     The 
male  is  the  best ;  his  stripes  are  straight ; 
hose  of  the  female,  wavy. 

Pike.  Carp,  I'erclt,  Smelts,  Gudgeons, 
re",  may  be  judged  by  the  above  rules. 

Eels. — The  bright  silver-hued  belly 
.nd  thickness  of  back,  are  the  guides  in 
heir  selection. 

Lobsters. — To  be  had  in  perfection 
ihould  be  boiled  at  horn*;  choose  the 
leaviest.  When  they  are  boiled  the  tail 
should  have  a  good  spring ;  the  cock  lob- 
ster has  a  narrow  tail  in  which  the  two 
uppermost  fins  are  stiff  and  hard ;  the 
len  has  a  broad  tail,  and  these  fins  are 
softer.  The  male  has  the  best  flavor; 
;he  flesh  is  firmer ;  and  the  color  when 
soiled  is  brighter  than  the  hen. 

Oysters. — There  are  many  sorts  of 
oysters ;  when  the  oyster  is  alive  the 
shell  will  close  upon  the  knife ;  the  com- 
mon oyster  should  be  used  for  sauce,  and 
the  natives,  of  which  there  are  several 
kinds,  should  be  sent  to  table. 


CHAPTER  XI. 

UNDER  the  head  of  Domestic  Manipu- 
lation, we  propose  giving  a  series  of  arti- 
cles on  the  numerous  and  essential 
manual  operations  that  are  constantly 
required  in  every  family,  and  which, 
whether  they  are  well  or  ill  done,  must 
of  necessity  be  performed.  The  term 
Domestic  Manipulation,  employed  in  the 
widest  sense,  would  include  all  the  man- 
ual operations  required  in  a  house,  but 
we  propose  to  limit  it  to  such  as  partake 
in  a  slight  degree  of  a  scientISc  charac- 
ter ;  thus  the  operations  of  Filtering,  De- 
canting, Weighing.  Measuring,  Bottling, 
Corking,  Unstoppering.  Pounding,  Heat- 
ing, Boiling,  Distilling.  Cementing,  &c 
&c.  will  be  included;  whilst  Dusting. 
Washing,  and  Scrubbing,  though  no  less 


60 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


in    strictness,    manipulations,    will    be 
passed  over  in  silence. 

We  propose  treating  of  the  manipula- 
tions connected  with  BOTTLES  AND  DE- 
CANTERS, &c.,  under  the  following  heads  : 
Cleaning,  Drying,  Corking.  Tying  down, 
Stoppering,  and  Unstoppering. 

Cleaning. — Perhaps  no  more  effectual 
and  easy  mode  of  cleaning  wine  and  beer 
bottles  can  be  recommended  than  that 
commonly  adopted,  viz.,  the  use  of  small 
shot  and  water;  in  the  case  of  old  port 
wine  bottles,  however,  it  often  occurs 
that  the  mechanical  action  of  the  shot 
does  not  remove  the  hardened  crust  from 
the  interior ;  a  small  quantity  of  pearl- 
ash  or  soda,  or  still  better,  washing 
liquids,  added  to  the  water,  will  soften 
the  crust  sufficiently  to  permit  its  easy 
removal.  There  is,  however,  one  objec- 
tion to  the  use  of  shot  for  the  purpose 
of  cleaning  bottles ;  unless  due  care  be 
taken,  by  the  violence  of  the  shaking  it 
often  happens  that  several  become  firmly 
wedged  between  the  bottom  and  sides  of 
the  bottles,  and  are  not  removed  by  the 
subsequent  rinsings  of  clean  water,  and 
if  the  bottles  are  used  for  acid  wines  or 
other  liquids,  (almost  all  home-made 
wines  contain  a  considerable  portion  of 
free  acid,)  the  shots  are  slowly  dissolved ; 
and  from  the  metallic  arsenic  which  they 
contajn,  as  well  as  from  the  lead  itself, 
the  liquid  is  rendered  poisonous.  This 
effect  may  be  readily  guarded  against  by 
removing  any  shots  which  may  have  be- 
come fixed,  by  a  stiff  wire  slightly 
hooked  at  the  end. 

Decanters  are  formed  of  flint  glass 
which  is  much  softer  and  more  readily 
scratched  than  the  common  kinds ;  they 
require  therefore  a  less  rough  treatment ; 
in  general,  warm  (not  boiling)  water, 
with  the  addition  of1  a  few  pieces  of  coarse 
brown  paper,  and  if  requisite  a  little  soda, 
will  be  found  effectual ;  should  greater 
force  be  required,  a  small  portion  of  tow 


wrapped  round  the  notched  end  of  a 
moderately  stiff  wire,  and  used  with  a 
little  strong  soda,  will  be  found  sufficient. 
Sand  or  ashes  should  never  be  employed 
in  cleaning  decanters,  as  they  roughen 
and  totally  disfigure  the  brilliant  surface 
of  the  glass. 

Drying. — It  is  scarcely  necessary  to 
speak  of  the  advantages  of  being  able  to 
dry  thoroughly  both  decanters  and  com- 
mon bottles ;  if  the  former,  after  having 
been  cleaned,  are  put  away  wet,  they  be- 
come musty ;  and  many  liquids  are  much 
injured  by  being  put  into  wet  bottles. 
Some  of  our  readers  have  doubtless  ex- 
perienced the  inefficiency  of  the  ordinary 
means  of  drying  decanters,  &c.  j  after 
draining  for  some  days  they  still  remain 
damp,  and  if  placed  near  a  fire  the 
warmth  merely  drives  the  vapor  to  the 
colder  part  of  the  vessel ;  they  may,  how- 
ever, be  readily  and  quickly  dried  after 
draining,  by  making  them  slightly  warm 
and  blowing  in  fresh  air  with  a  pair 
f  bellows,  which  rapidly  carries  out  the 
damp  vapor,  and  leaves  the  vessel  per- 
"ectly  dry.  If  bellows  are  not  at  h and,  the 
damp  air  may  be  drawn  out  (not  blown) 
with  the  mouth,  assisted  by  a  tube  suffi- 
ciently long  to  reach  nearly  to  the  bot- 
tom of  the  decanter ;  in  the  laboratory  a 
piece  of  glass  tube  is  usually  taken,  being 
always  at  hand,  but  for  domestic  use  a 
Diece  of  paper  may  be  rolled  up  so  as  to 
orm  an  extemporaneous  and  effectual 
substitute. 


M  —Little  can  be  said  with  re- 
gard to  the  corking  of  bottles,  beyond 
stating  the  fact  that  cheap  bad  corks  are 
always  dear;  the  best  corks  are  soft, 
velvety,  and  free  from  large  pores ;  if 
squeezed  they  become  more  elastic  and 
fit  more  closely.  If  good  corks  are  used 
of  sufficiently  large  size  to  be  extracted 
without  the  corkscrew,  they  may  be  em- 
ployed many  times  in  succession,  especi- 
ally if  they  are  soaked  in  boiling  water 


DOMESTIC   MANIPULATION. 


61 


afterwards,  which  restores  them  to  their 
original  shape,  and  renews  their  elas- 
ticity. 

Tying  down. — The  operation  of  tying 
down  corks  merits  a  longer  notice,  as 
without  it  many  effervescent  liquids  could 
not  he  preserved.  The  most  common 
mode  of  fastening  down  corks,  is  with 
the  ginger-beer  knot,  which  is  thus  made : 
First  the  loop  is  formed  as  in  Fig.  1 


Fig.  1. 

then  that  part  of  the  string  which  passes 
across  the  loop  is  placed  on  the  top  of 
the  cork,  and  the  loop  itself  passed  down 
around  the  neck  of  the  bottle,  and  by 
pulling  the  ends  of  the 
cord  is  made  tight  beneath 
the  rim  ;  the  ends  of  the 
string  are  finally  brought 
up,  and  tied  either  in  a 
double  knot,  or  in  a  bow  on  F.  2 
the  top  of  the  cork.  When  ginger-beer  is 
made  at  home,  it  will  be  found  most  ad- 
vantageous to  use  the  best  corks,  and  to  tie 
them  down  with  a  bow,  when  both  corks 
and  strings  may  be  made  use  of  re- 
peatedly. 

For  effervescent  wines,  such  as  cham- 
pagne, gooseberry,  &c.,  which  require  to 
be  kept  a  longer  time,  and  are  more  valu- 
able, a  securer  knot  is  desirable,  which 
may  be  made  thus : — A  loop  as  in  Fig. 


Fig. 


2  is  first  formed,  and  the  lower  end  is 
then  turned  upwards  and  carried  behind 
the  loop  as  shown  at  Fig.  3 ;  it  is  then 
pulled  through  the  loop  as  in  Fiq.  4,  and 
in  this  state  is  put  over  the  neck  of  the 


bottle  ;  the  part  a  being  on  one  side,  and 
the  two  parts  of  the  loop  on  the  other  • 


Fig.  4. 

on  pulling  the  two  ends  the  whole  be- 
comes tight  round  the  neck,  and  the  ends, 
which  should  be  quite  opposite,  are  to 
be  brought  up  over  the  cork,  twice  twist- 


Fig.  5. 

ed,  as  in  Fig.  5,  and  then  tied  in  a  single 
knot. 

Stoppering. — The  stoppering  of  bottles 
is  an  operation  usually  performed  by  the 
makers ;  it  may,  however,  be  useful  to 
know  that  badly  fitting  stoppers  may  be 
readily  fitted  by  regrinding ;  this  is  done 
by  dipping  the  stopper  in  a  mixture  of 
fine  sand,  or  still  better,  emery  and  wa- 
ter, replacing  it,  and  turning  it  backwards 
and  forwards  with  a  slight  pressure; 
fresh  sand  must  be  applied  from  time  to 
time.  When  the  fitting  is  exact,  so  that 
the  stopper  turns  freely  without  shaking, 
the  whole  may  be  finished  off  by  using  a 
little  fine  emery  and  oil. 

Unstoppering. — This  operation  is  much 
more  likely  to  be  required  than  the  last 
one  described,  for  the  stoppers  of  decan- 
ters, smelling-bottles,  &c.,  from  various 
causes,  frequently  become  fixed,  and 
many  are  the  fractures  both  of  bottles 
and  stoppers,  caused  by  the  misdirected 
efforts  to  remove  them.  In  treating  of 
the  various  means  that  may  be  employed 


62 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


we  will  mention  them  in  the  order  in 
which  they  should  be  tried,  beginning 
with  the  simpler  and  more  easy.  a:i«l  pass- 
ing on  to  those  which  are  more  effectual, 
and  at  the  same  time,  unfortunately,  more 
dangerous.     The  first  method,  then,  that 
should  be  tried,  is  to  press  the  stopper 
upwards  with  the  fore-finger  and  thumb 
of  the  left  hand  (the  other  fingers  hold- 
ing the  neck  of  the  bottle),  and  at  the 
same  time  giving  the  stopper  a  succession 
of  short,  sharp,  light  taps,  with  the  wood- 
en handle  of  a  chisel,  knife,  or  small  ham- 
mer ;  care  must  be  taken  not  to  strike 
the  stopper  with  suificient  force  to  break 
it,  and  it  should  be  borne  in  mind  that 
it  is  not  the  force  of  the  blo^r,  but  the 
vibration,  or  jar,  which  is  effectual  in 
loosening  it;  should  this  plan  be  found 
ineffectual  after  a   short   trial,   it  may 
probably   be    from    the    Stopper    being 
cemented  by  some  substance,  such  as  the 
dried  sugar  of  a  sweet  wine.     In  such 
cases  we  should  endeavor  to  dissolve  the 
cement    by  a    suitable    solvent,   which 
should  be  placed  in  the  groove  between 
the  stopper  and  the  bottle ;  thus  if  the 
stopper  is  cemented  with  sugar,  gum.  or 
salt,  water  may  be  used ;  in  many  circum- 
stances, oil  is  advantageous,  or  spirit,  or 
even  strong  acid  may  be  used ;  whatever 
liquid  is  employed  it  should  be  allowed 
to  remain  some  days,  being  renewed  if 
requisite,  and  the  tapping,  &c.,  should  be 
aguin  had  recourse  to. 

Should  these  methods  fail,  a  piece  of 
cloth  may  be  dipped  in  very  hot  water 
an- 1  wrapped  round  the  neck  of  the  bot- 
tle, when  the  heat  causes  the  expansion 
of  the  glass,  and  if  the  stopper  be  tapped 
or  tvvisted  before  the  heat  has  had  Jtime 
to  enlarge  it,  its  removal  may  be  effected ; 
tins  operation  must  necessarily  be  a  quick 
one.  for  if  the  stopper  is  heated  and  en- 
larged, as  well  as  the  bottle,  it  is  obvious 
that  no  benefit  will  result.  In  the  labo- 
ratory it  is  often 'customary  to  heat  the 
bottle,  not  by  a  strip  of  cloth*  dipped  in 


hot  water,  but  by  turning  it  rapidly  ovei 
the  flame  of  a  lamp ;  in  this  way  there  is 
more  danger  of  cracking  the  bottle,  and 
the  plan  is  not  to  be  recommended  in 
general,  although  employed  with  consid- 
erable success  by  those  who,  like  opera- 
tive chemists,  are  constantly  in  the  habit 
of  applying  heat  to  glass  vessels.  It  will 
at  once  be  seen  that  the  plan  is  fraught 
with  great  danger  if  applied  to  bottles 
containing  inflammable  liquids,  as  spirits, 
&c. 

The  most  effectual  mode  of  removing 
stoppers,  especially  those  of  small  bottles, 
such  as  smelling-bottles,  remains  to  be 
described.  Take  a  piece  of  strong  cord, 
about  a  yard  or  four  feet  in  length,  dou- 
ble it  at  the  middle,  and  tie  a  knot  (Fig. 
6,  5)  so  as  to  form  a  loop  (a)  of  about 
I 


Fig.  6. 

four  inches  in  length  at  the  doubled  end, 
bring  the  knot  close  to  one  side  of  the 
stopper,  and  tie  the  ends  tightly  together 
on  the  opposite  side,  as  at  Fig.  7,  e,  so  as  to 


Fig.  T. 

fasten  the  string  securely  round  the  neck 
of  the  stopper ;  now  pass  one  of  the  ends 
through  the  loop  («),  and  then  tie  it  firm- 
ly .to  the  other  end;  tin  doubled  cord  is 
then  to  be  placed  over  a  bar  or  other 
support,. then  if  the  bottle  is  surrounded 
by  a  cloth  to  prevent  accidents  in  case 
of  fracture,  arid  pulled  downwards  with 
a  jerk,  the  fores  of  which  is  gradually  in- 
creased, it  will  be  found  that  in  a  snort 
time  the  stopper  is  liberated.  Two  pre- 


DOMESTIC   MANIPULATION. 


63 


cautions  are  requisite ;  one  is,  that  the 
strain  on  both  sides  of  the  stopper  is 
equal ;  the  other,  that  care  be  taken  that 
when  the  stopper  is  liberated,  it  is  not 
dashed  by  the  rebound  against  any  hard 
substance,  which  would  cause  its  fracture. 


CUTTING,   GRINDING,  AND   WRITING  ON 
GLASS.  , 

We  have  described  the  most  advanta- 
geous modes  of  extracting  fixed  stoppers 
from  decanters,  &c.  It  is  possible  that 
some  of  our  readers  may  have  followed 
our  advice  sufficiently  well  to  have  suc- 
ceeded, in  cracking  the  necks  of  their 
decanters.  In  case  any  should  have  been 
so  unfortunate,  or  rather  we  would  say, 
if  we  were  quite  sure  we  were  not  ad- 
dressing ladies — so  clumsy,  let  them  not 
despair ;  dexterity  in  manipulation  comes 
by  practice ;  and  as  no  evil  is  without  a 
remedy,  we  will  next  consider  what  can 
be  done  with  the  broken  decanter.  Un- 
less it  is  cracked  down  to  the  bottom,  it 
may  be  cut  off  and  converted  into  a  hand- 
some sugar  basin ;  or  if  not  high  enough 
for  that  purpose,  will  serve  for  a  pickle- 
dish,  or  a  flower-stand,  &c. ;  and  in  the 
same  way,  a  tumbler  broken  at  the  upper 
part  will  furnish  an  elegant  salt-cellar, 
or  serviceable  soap-dish;  and  even  com- 
mon bottles,  if  sufficiently  stout,  may  be 
made  into  useful  jars,  instead  of  being 
consigned  to  the  dust-heap. 

The  operation  of  cutting  glass,  con- 
sists in  leading  a  crack  in  the  required 
direction  ;  this  is  readily  done  by  a  hot 
iron  rod,  a  piece  of  pointed  burning  char- 
coal, or,  what  is  still  better,  a  burning 
pastile — which  is  somewhat  similar  in 
its  composition  to  those  used  for  fumi- 
gation ;  and  which  latter,  although  rather 
expensive,  and  inconvenient  from  their 
shape,  may  be  applied  for  the  purpose 
When  the'  operation  of  cutting  up  glass 
vessels  into  useful  forms  is  much  had  re- 


ourse  to,  pastiles  are  prepared  for  the  - 
mrpose,  being  superior  to  a  heated  iron 
•od,  as  they  continue  to  burn  and  retain 
heir  heat,  whilst  the  latter  requires  to  be 
•e- heated,  if  the  crack  has  to  be  led  any 
considerable  distance.    Pastiles  are  read- 
ly  made  t>y  rubbing  up  half  an  ounce 
f  powdered  gum  tragacanth  with  water, 
so  as  to  form  a  mucilage  about  as  thick 
as  ordinary  starch;   this  should  be  al- 
owed  to  remain  a  few  hours,  and  then 
mixed  with  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  ben- 
zoin, previously  dissolved  in  the  smallest 
>ossible  quantity  of  proof  spirit ;  after 
mixing  them  together  in  a  mortar,  as 
much  powdered  charcoal  should  be  added 
as  will  form  .a  stifl'  paste,  and  the  whole 
well  worked  together,  rolled  into  sticks 
;he  size  of  a  common  black-lead  pencil, 
and    dried.     As    thus    prepared,    they 
should  be  free  from  cracks,  and  solid 
throughout ;  and  on  being  ignited  at  the 
nd,  they  will  burn  steadily  away  to  a 
point.    If  an  iron  rod  is  used,  it  should 
be  nearly  as  stout  as  the  little  finger, 
and  taper  at  the  end.  for  an  inch  and  a 
half  to  a  blunt  point.    Before  commen- 
ing  the  line  along  which  it  is  wished  to 
divide  the  glass,  it  should  be  marked 
with  a  pen  and  ink,  and  allowed  to  dry, 
when  the  iron,  heated  to  dull  redness, 
on  the  lighted  extremity  of  the  pastile, 
should  be  brought  to  the  end  of  a  crack, 
being  held  in  a  slanting  direction  with 
regard  to  the  glass,  as  shown  in  the  cut, 
and  slowly  moved  in  an  oblique  direc- 
tion towards  the  line ;  the  crack  will  be 
found  to  follow  the  heated  point,  and 
may  thus  be  led  as  required,  even  pass- 
ing over  parts  Varying  very  considerably 
in  thickness,  as  in  the  case  of  the  flut- 
ings  on  a  cut  decanter;  but  it  cannot, 
with  certainty,  be  made  to  pass  suddenly 
from  a  very  thin  to  a  very  stout  part,  or 
the  reverse :  thus  it  may  be  led  around 
the  sides  of  a  tumbler,  but  could  hardly 
be  made  to  pass  down  one  side,  across 


64: 


THE  PEACTICAL  HOUSEKEEPER. 


•the  bottom  and  up  the  other.  The  ra- 
pidity with  which  the  operation  is  per- 
formed, depends  upon  the  heat  of  the 
iron  or  pastile  ;  if  the  former  is  very  hot, 
or  the  latter  made  to  burn  more  viv- 
idly by  blowing  upon  it,  the  operation  is 
quickened,  but  it  is  not  performed  with 
so  much  certainty,  as  the  crack  may  pass 
on  further  than  is  desirable :  care  should 
be  taken  not  to  lead  the  crack  too  near 


the  edge  of  the  vessel,  or  to  another 
crack,  as  in  that  case  it  is  apt  to  leave 
the  proper  course,  and  fly  suddenly  to 
the  edge,  to  which  an  inexperienced  op- 
erator should  not  attempt  to  go  nearer 
than  half  an  inch. 

It  sometimes  occurs  that  a  piece  is 
broken  out  of  a  glass,  without  leaving 
any  crack  to  commence  from;  in  this 
case,  one  must  be  made,  by  heating  the 
edge  (one  formed  by  the  fracture,  if  pos- 
sible) with  the  iron  or  pastile,  and  in- 
stantly applying  the  moistened  finger. 
When  a  crack  is  formed,  which  may  be 
used  as  described  above,  care  must  be 
taken  not  to  cause  an  extensive  fracture, 
which  may  run  across  the  intended  line 
( of  division ;  this  may  be  avoided  by  com- 
n.encing  the  crack  at  some  distance  from 
the  line,  and  by  applying  the  heated  point 
for  a  very  short  time,  preferring  to  make 
two  or  three  unsuccessful  attempts  rather 
than  to  hasten  the  operation,  and  risk 
the  destruction  of  the  glass.  When  a 
glass  vessel  has  been  thus  divided,  the 
edges  are  sufficiently  sharp  to  cut  the 
fingers  in  handling,  and  are  usually 


wavy ;  it  is  therefore  necessary  to  make 
them  smooth  and  even.  The  most  ready 
way  of  doing  this  is,  by  grinding  them 
down  on  a  flat  sandstone,  or  ordinary 
paving-stone,  with  a  little  sharp  sand  or 
emery,  and  water,  taking  care  to  move 
the  glass  in  a  circular  direction,  and  not 
merely  backwards  and  forwards;  the 
smoothness  of  the  whole  will  depend  en- 
tirely on  that  of  the  stone,  and  on  the 
fineness  of  the  sand  or  emery  employed. 
If,  from  any  irregularity,  there  is  much 
glass  to  grind  away,  it  is  preferable  to 
commence  with  sand,  and  finish  with 
emery  on  a  smooth  stone ;  if  the  edges 
are  not  thus  ground  down,  they  should 
have  the  sharp  angles,  which  are  really 
dangerous,  removed  by  a  fine  file,  which 
should  be  moistened  with  oil  of  turpen- 
tine or  camphene,  as  this  liquid  has  an 
extraordinary  effect  in  increasing  the 
action  of  the  file  upon  the  glass,  and  at 
the  same  time  protecting  the  steel  instru- 
ment from  wear. 

Advantageous  as  cracks  are  in  glass 
vessels  whenever  we  wish  to  separate 
them  into  two  parts,  they  are  by  no 
means  desirable  under  other  circumstan- 
ces ;  and  it  is  as  important  to  know  how 
to  stop  their  progress,  as  to  lead  them 
forward.  This  is  readily  done  in  stout 
glass,  by  drilling  a  hole  about  half  an 
inch  in  advance  of  the  crack,  which 
gradually  passes  on  into  it,  and  then  its 
farther  progress  is  arrested.  Holes  may 
be  drilled  in  glass  with  a  common  drill 
and  bow,  the  place  being  first  marked 
with  a  file  or  flint,  and  the  drill  point 
kept  wet  with  oil  of  turpentine.  It  is 
hardly  necessary  to  state,  that  a  crack 
existing  in  the  neck  of  a  decanter,  and 
liable  to  be  forced  apart  with  the  stopper, 
could  not  be  arrested  in  its  progress  by 
such  means.  If  necessary,  a  little  emery 
powder  may  be  used  with  oil  of  tur- 
pentine ;  and  after  the  operation,  the  hole 
must  be  filled  up  with  some  cement ;  it 


DOMESTIC   MANIPULATION. 


65 


the  vessel  is  to  be  used  for  holding  liquids, 
a  little  fresh  slacked  lime,  moistened 
with  equal  parts  of  white  of  egg  and 
water,  may  be  used  for  this  purpose. 

The  grinding  of  glass  on  a  flat  stone 
with  sand  or  emery,  and  water,  is  often 
useful  in  making  a  bottle  stand  steadily ; 
and  by  its  means  a  wineglass  with  a 
broken  foot  may  be  turned  to  good  ac- 
count ;  for  if  as  much  of  the  stem  as  pos- 
sible is  knocked  off,  by  striking  it  with 
the  back  of  a  knife,  the  remainder  may 
be  ground  away  so  that  the  vessel  will 
stand. 

One  of  the  most  important  Domestic 
Manipulations,  although  one  of  the  most 
simple  and  easy,  is  the  labelling  of  glass 
vessels.  It  is  not  too  much  to  affirm, 
that  scores  of  lives  might  have  been 
saved  if  this  had  been  attended  to.  In 
cases  of  accidental  poisoning,  we  usually 
find  that  the  victim  has  drunk  from  some 
bottle  which  has  been  put  away  without 
a  label ;  and  thus  some  corrosive  liquid 
used  for  cleaning,  or  some  poisonous 
lotion,  has  been  inadvertently  swallowed. 
One  of  the  most  ready  modes  of  label- 
ting  glass,  and  other  objects,  consists  in 
having  at  'hand  a  sheet  of  paper,  which 
has  had  spread  on  one  side  some  gum 
water,  mixed  with  half  its  weight  of 
coarse  brown  sugar,  and  allowed  to  dry ; 
this  may  be  cut  into  labels,  written  on, 
and  readily  attached  to  glass  by  moisten- 
ing with  the  tongue ;  the  white  margin 
of  a  sheet  of  postage  stamps  answers 
the  purpose  very  well.  If,  however,  acid 
liquids  are  used,  or  the  vessel  is  placed 
in  a  damp  situation,  as  a  cellar,  other 
means  must  be  had  recourse  to.  With 
a  little  practice,  it  is  easy  to  write  in  a 
legible,  though  not  very  conspicuous  man- 
ner, on  glass,  with  a  gun-flint,  or  with 
the  sharp-edged  fragments  of  common 
flint.  In  the  laboratory  what  is  called  a 
writing  diamond  is  used  for  this  purpose ; 
this  should  not  be  confounded  with  a 


lazier's  diamond,  which  is  used  for  di- 
viding, and  not  scratching  glass.  We 
would  here  caution  our  readers  against 
writing  on  glass  with  a  diamond  ring, 
&c.,  as  the  practice  injures  the  jewel  con- 
siderably ;  in  the  glazier's  diamond,  the 
natural  edges  of  the  crystal  are  used, 
which  are  not  liable  to  injury  as  are  the 
cut  angles  of  a  brilliant. 

When  glass  vessels  are  exposed  to 
damp,  the  best  mode  of  writing  on  them 
is  to  prepare  an  ink  for  the  purpose,  by 
mixing  the  common  cheap  varnish,  called 
Brunswick  black,  with  half  its  weight  of 
oil  of  turpentine,  or  what  is  the  same 
thing,  in  a  purer  state,  camphene ;  this 
should  be  kept  in  a  closely  corked  bottle, 
and  used  with  a  broad  nibbed  quill  pen ; 
it  soon  dries,  and  though  pale,  is  very 
distinct,  and  almost  imperishable.  If  it 
is  required  much  darker,  about  a  quarter 
of  an  hour  after  it  has  been  done,  a  little 
lampblack  should  be  rubbed  over  it, 
with  cotton  or  wadding,  when  it  imme- 
diately becomes  as  black  as  common  ink, 
and  resists  damp,  and  rubbing  or  wiping 
with  either  wet  or  dry  cloths  for  a  very 
long  time.  The  same  ink  is  equally 
advantageous  for  use  with  white  earthen- 
ware ;  and  although  we  have  never  had 
occasion  to  use  such  a  mixture,  there  is 
no  doubt  that  a  little  whiting  mixed  thin 
with  any  common  varnish,  would  furnish 
an  equally  useful  ink  for  writing  on  black 
bottles. 

CHAPTER  XII. 

DECANTING,    STEAINING,    AND    FILTER- 
ING OF  LIQUIDS. 

The  decanting  of  liquids  is,  under  or- 
dinary circumstances,  an  operation  suffi- 
ciently simple  to  require  no  explanation  j 
but  the  ease  and  certainty  with  which  it 
can  be  performed,  depend  entirely  upon 
the  form  of  the  vessel  from  which  the 
liquid  is  poured;  the  adhesion , existing 
between  liquids  and  solids  giving  rise  to 


66 


THE    PRACTICAL    HOUSEKEEPER. 


a  tendency  in  the  former  to  run  down 
the  outside  of  the  vessel;  and  if  the 
latter  is  nearly  full,  or  very  large  in  cir- 
cumference, or  the  sides  approach  the 
perpendicular  direction,  this  accident 
almost  always  occurs.  The  difficulty  of 
returning  a  glass  of  wine  to  the  decanter, 
or  of  pouring  from  one  full  tumbler  into 
another,  are  well  known  examples  of  this 
inconvenience. 

Advantage  may,  however,  be  taken  of 
the  adhesion  of  liquids  to  solids,  and  by 
it  the  former  ma}'  be  led  into  the  re- 
quired direction.  This  cannot  be  better 
illustrated  than  by  a  description  of  the 
means  by  which  a  glass  of  wine  may  be 
returned,  without  spilling,  to  the  decan- 
ter. If  a  teaspoon  is  dipped  into  the 
wine,  so  as  to  become  wetted  with  it,  and 
then  held  perpendicularly  with  the  bowl 
downwards,  and  the  point  over,  but  not 
touching,  the  entrance  into  the  decanter, 
and  the  edge  of  the  glass  be  made  to 
touch  the  back  of  the  spoon,  it  will  be 
found,  on  inclining  the  former,  that  the 
wine,  kaving  a  perpendicular  solid  body 
to  adhere  to  and  run  down,  v/ill  do  so  in 
preference  to  trickling  along  the  oblique 
outer  surface  of  the  wineglass  ;  and  in 
this  mode  a  liquid  may  be  poured  steadily 
out  of  any  similar  vessel  with  so  little 
disturbance  as  not  to  agitate  any  sedi- 
ment that  may  exist  in  it.  In  the  lab- 
oratory of  the  chemist,  a  piece  of  glass 
rod  is  usually  employed  for  this  purpose ; 
but  a  spoon,  or  pencil,  or  any  similar  sub- 
stance having  a  surface  capable  of  being 
wetted/by  the  liquid,  answers  equally 
well/ 

1%  however,  the  vessel  out  of  which  it 
is  wished  to  decant  is  large,  very  full,  or 
the  sides,  on  pouring,  are  nearly  perpen- 
dicular, the  plan  is  not  successful ;  thus, 
it  could  not  be  employed  in  aiding  the 
transfer  of  the  liquid  from  one  full  tum- 
bler to  another.  Even  this  may  be  ac- 
complished without  the  aid  of  a  funnel, 
or  without  spilling,  by  preventing  the 


adhesion  of  the  liquid  to  the  edge  or  side 
of  the  vessel  out  of  which  it  is  poured, 
which  may  be  readily  done  by  greasing 
the  rim,  when  it  will  be  found,  quite  prac- 
ticable to  pour  out  of  a  nearly  full  tum- 
bler without  spilling. 

In  many  instances,  the  employment  of 
a  syphon  in  decanting  will  be  found  very 
advantageous,  particularly  when  the  con- 
taining vessel  is  large,  and  cannot  be  read- 
ily moved,  or  when  there  is  any  sediment 
which  it  is  desirable  not  to  disturb.  The 
most  simple  form  ofthis  instrument  con- 
sists of  a  tube,  bent  as  in  Fig.  1,  with 
one  leg  shorter  than  the  other  ;  this  may 
be  made  of  glass,  pewter,  or,  in  fact,  of 
any  kind  of  stiff  tubing  that  will  retain 
its  form — a  piece  of  gutta  percha  pipe, 
carefully  bent  by  a  moderate  warmth, 
whilst  a  piece  of  stout  cord  is  in  the  in- 
terior to  prevent  the  sides  closing  togeth- 
er, answers  very  well.  Before  use.  the 
syphon  must  be  filled  with  liquor;  this 
is  best  accomplished  Joy  turning  it  upside 
down,  with  the  opening  to  the  short  leg 
raised  on  a  level  with  that  of  the  long 
one,  when  the  liquid  should  be  poure^d 
into  the  former.  When  both  legs  are 
filled,  they  should  be  closed  with  the  fin- 
gers ;  the  shorter  leg  introduced  into  the 
liquid  it  is  wished  to  draw  off;  and  the 
opening  of  the  longer  leg  brought  to  a 
lower  level  than  that  of  the  shorter,  and 


Fig.  I. 

on  removing  the  fingers  the  liquid  will 
flow  as  in  Fig.  1,  until  it  is  below  the 
level  of  the  short  leg.  If  the  syphon  is 
made  of  small  tubing,  or  is  lessened  at 


DOMESTIC   MANIPULATION. 


67 


the  opening  so  as  not  to  exceed  one  quar- 
ter of  an  inch  in  diameter,  there  will  be 
no  occasion  to  close  the  end  of  more  than 
one  leg  with  the  finger,  as  the  liquid  will 
not  flow  when  it  is  brought  to  the  proper 
position  unless  .both  orifices  are  open ; 
and  thus  the  necessity  of  plunging  the 
finger  into  the  liquid  is  obviated,  and  the 
syphon  can  also  be  used  with  a  narrow- 
necked  bottle,  into  which  the  hand  could 
not  be  passed. 

To  do  away  with 
the  necessity  of  filling 
the  syphon  before  use, 
the  instrument  is  usu- 
ally made  with  a  suck- 
ing tube,  as  in  Fig.  2 ; 
in  this  case,  all  that  is 
requisite  is,  to  intro- 
duce the  short  leg, 
close  the  opening  to 
the  long  one,  and  by 
the  action  of  the  mouth,  draw  up  the 
liquid  until  both  legs  are  full,  when  on 
removing  the  finger,  the  stream  will  flow. 
A  very  ingenious  syphon  of  this  kind  is 
described  by  the  German  chemist  Mohr ; 
it  is  thus  constructed :— Take  a  long  Eau 
de  Cologne  bottle,  and,  with  a  file  and 
turpentine,  make  a  deep  notch  across, 
about  an  inch  and  a  half  from  the  bottom ; 
then,  with  a  charcoal  point  or  pastile,  or 
hot  iron,  produce  a  crack,  and  cut  off  the 
bottom,  grinding  it  smoothly ;  then  take 
a  tube  -bent  at  an  angle  of  forty-five  de- 
grees, and,  by  means  of  a  good  cork,  per- 
forated with  a  rat-tail  rasp,  fit  it  tightly 
in  the  bottom  of  the  bottle,  and  add  also 


Fig.  2. 


Fig.  8. 


another  piece  of  tubing  for  a  suction  tube ; 
the  whole  will  then  have  the  appearance 
represented  in  Fig.  3,  and  will  form  an 
exceedingly  useful,  and  very  convenient 
syphon. 

.In  emptying  large  stone  bottles  or 
carboys,  the  following  plan  may  be  had 
recourse  to: — Perforate  a  sound  cork 
with  two  openings  by  a  rat-tail  rasp,  and 


Fig.  4. 

fit,  air-tight,  two  tubes  bent  as  in  F><i.  4. 
On  blowing  .through  the  upper,  the  liquid 
will  be  forced  to  ascend  and  run  over  the 
bend  of  the  other,  which  will  then  act  as 
a  syphon.  This  plan  is  exceedingly  use- 
ful in  emptying  carboys  of  corrosive 
liquids,  as  oil  of  vitriol,  &c. ;  and  if  all  the 
joints  are — as  they  should  be — air-tight, 
the  flow  may  be  arrested  by  closing  the 
upper  tube  with  the  finger.  In  the  fig- 
ure the  outer  leg  of  the  syphon  is  short- 
ened to  save  space ;  in  practice  it  must 
be  of  sufficient  length  to  be  lower  than 
the  inner  leg  within  the  vessel. 

If  a  syphon  is  required  frequently  for 
decanting  the  same  kind  of  liquid,  it  is 
found  troublesome  to  be  constantly  filling 
it  before  each  time  of  using ;  this  trouble 
is  obviated  by  the  use  of  an  instrument 


68 


THE  PRACTICAL  HOUSEKEEPER. 


formed  with  legs  of  equal  length,  which 
are  turned  up  at  the  ends,  as  in  Fig.  5  ; 
this  having  been  filled,  may  be  hung  up 
in  the  erect  position,  and  the  liquid  will 

A  not  escape,  but  on  plung- 
ing one  end  into  a  liquid, 
it  will  be  found  immedi- 
ately to  flow  from  the 
other,  provided  that  the 
latter  is  below  the  level 
of  the  surface  of  the  liquid. 
The  operations  of 
straining  and  filtering  are  frequently  re- 
quired in  domestic  manipulations,  and 
the  apparatus  employed  usually  consists 
of  sieves  and  a  jelly-bag.  As,  in  many 
other  instances,  it  will  be  found  advanta- 
geous to  import  several  contrivances  from 
the  laboratory  to  the  kitchen,  one  of  the 
most  useful  (because  most  simple)  strain- 
ers consists  of  a  square  frame,  formed  of 
four  pieces  of  wood  nailed  together  at  the 
corners,  with  a  piece  of  calico,  linen,  or 
canvas,  of  suitable  fineness,  tacked  to  the 
four  sides  ;  this  strainer  is  particularly 
useful  in  separating  any  solid  substance 
— as  the  residue  in  making  wines — or  if 
grated  potatoes  are  put  on  one  made  of 
coarse  cloth,  the  starch  can  be  readily 
washed  through,  leaving  the  useless  por- 
tion on  the  strainer;  the  cloth  should 
not  be  tacked  very  loosely,  as  it  bags 
down  when  any  substance  is  put  on  it, 
and  the  liquid  runs  away  below  from  the 
centre.  This  strainer  is  a  most  useful 
one ;  it  is  readily  made,  of  any  degree  of 
fineness,  and  of  any  size ;  and  it  also  pos- 
sesses the  great  advantage,  that,  if  necessa- 
ry, the  tacks  fastening  the  cloth  can  easi- 
ly be  withdrawn,  when  the  substance 
remaining  can  be  rolled  up  in  the  cloth, 
and  tightly  squeezed,  to  express  the  last 
portions  of  liquid. 

In  cases  where  a  finer  filtration  is  re- 
quired than  can  be  obtained  by  means  of 
a  cloth,  as  in  cleaning  turbid  wine  or 
spirit,  the  use  of  filtering-paper  is  recom- 


mended. This  paper  is  merely  a  stouter 
kind  of  blotting-paper,  thick  varieties  of 
which  answer  very  well  for  domestic  pur- 
poses ;  it  is  most  simply  used  by  taking 
a  square  piece,  folding  it  into  half— by 
bringing  the  two  opposite  edges  together 
— and  then  folding  the  oblong  so  obtain- 
ed across  its  length;  by  this  means  a 
small  square  is  obtained,  one  quarter  the 
original  size,  which  may  be  opened  into 
a  hollow  cup,  having  three  thicknesses  of 
paper  on  one  side,  and  one  on  the  other ; 
this  is  to  be  placed  with  the  point  down- 
wards, in  a  funnel,  and  the  liquid  poured 
in ;  and  as  soon  as  the  pores  of  the  paper 
are  expanded  by  the  moisture,  it  will  be 
found  to  flow  through  perfectly  clear; 
care  must  be  taken  in  making  the  filter, 
not  to  finger  it  much  where  the  two  fold- 
ings cross  each  other,  as  a  hole  is  readily 
made  at  that  part,  and  the  filter  spoiled. 
The  objection  to  this  simple  contrivance 
is,  that  from  its  fiat  sides  applj'ing  them- 
selves closely  to  those  of  the  funnel,  the 
flow  of  the  liquid  is  impeded,  and  is, 
therefore,  slow.  This  effect  may  be  obvi- 
ated by  the  use  of  the  plaited  filter,  the 
construction  of  which  we  will  endeavor 
to  describe.  A  square  piece  of  filtering, 
or  stout  blotting-paper  is  to  be  doubled, 
and  the  oblong  so  obtained  is  to  be  again 
folded  in  half,  when  if  the  last  fold  is 
opened,  it  will  have  the  appearance  of 
Fig.  6.  From  the  corners  b  &,  folds  are 
to  be  creased  in  the  direction  towards  a, 
but  not  reaching  it  for  half  an  inch ;  these 
are  indicated  by  the  dotted  lines,  which 
&  d  6 


c  a  c 

Fig.  6. 

divide  the  double  paper  into  four  trian- 
gles, each  of  which  is  to  be  again  folded 
into  eighths,  and  care  must  be  taken  that 


DOMESTIC   MANIPULATION". 


69 


all  the  folds  are  made  the  same  way,  that 
is,  projecting  to  the  same  side  of  the  pa- 
per. When  complete,  the  doubled  and 
creased  paper  will  appear  as  Fig.  T.  Now 


Fig.  7. 

divide  each  eighth  into  half,  by  a  fold  in 
the  opposite  direction  to  those  previously 
made,  when  it  will  be  found  that  the 
whole  will  readily  fold  up  like  a  paper 
fan ;  the  projecting  loose  ends  which  are 
formed  by  the  corners  5,  should  be  cut 
off,  and  the  double  sides  separated  for  the 
first  time  by  blowing  them  apart,  when 
the  whole  may  be  readily  opened  out  as 
in  Fig.  8.  In  making 
this  filter,  which  takes 
a  much  less  time  than 
to  follow  the  descrip- 
tion, two  precautions 
are  requisite.  The 
folds  should  be  made 
at  once  with  one  firm 
pressure,  and  not  with 
Fig.  8.  a  series  of  rubbings ; 

and  all  the  creases  should  stop  short  of 
the  middle,  otherwise  a  hole  will  be  made 
at  that  point,  long  before  the  filter  is 
coiqtpleted.  The  advantages  of  this  filter 
are  that  it  exposes  a  large  surface  for  the 
liquid  to  pass  through ;  and  from  its  only 
being  in  contact  with  the  funnel  where 
the  angles  project,  the  current  flows 
away  readily. 

The  best  means  for  filtration  of  water, 
and  the  construction  of  water  niters,  will 
be  treated  of  when  we  speak  of  the  "  do- 
mestic manipulation"  connected  with 
that  liquid. 

CHAPTER  Xin. 

THE  MANUFACTURE  AND  USE  OF  CEMENTS. 

THE  term  cement,  includes  all  those 
substances  employed  for  the  purpose  of 


causing  the  adhesion  of  two  or  more 
bodies,  whether  originally  separate,  or 
divided  by  an  accidental  fracture.  As 
the  substances  that  are  required  to  be 
connected  together  are  exceedingly  vari- 
ous, and  differ  very  much  in  their  proper- 
ties as  to  texture,  &c.,  &c.,  and  as  the 
conditions  under  which  they  are  placed, 
with  regard  to  heat  and  moisture,  are 
also  exceedingly  variable,  a  number  of 
cements,  possessed  of  very  different 
properties,  are  required;  for  a  cement 
that  answers  admirably  under  one  set  of 
circumstances,  may  be  perfectly  useless 
in  others.  A  vast  number  of  cements 
are  known  and  used  in  the  various  arts ; 
but  they  may  all  be  referred  to  a  few 
classes,  and  our  object  in  this  paper  will 
be  to  describe  the  manufacture  and  use 
of  the  best  of  each  class,  and  also  to  state 
what  are  the  general  principles  upon 
which  the  success  or  failure  of  cement- 
ing usually  depends. 

The  different  parts  of  a  solid  are  held 
together  by  an  attraction  between  their 
several  particles,  which  is  termed  the  at- 
traction of  cohesion,  or  cohesive  attrac- 
tion. The  amount  of  this  varies  with 
the  substances ;  thus,  the  cohesion  of  the 
particles  of  iron  to  one  another  is  enor- 
mously great,  whilst  that  between  those 
of  chalk  is  but  smalk  This  attraction 
acts  only  when  the  particles  are  in  the 
closest  possible  contact;  even  air  must 
not  be  between  them.  The  attraction 
of  cohesion  which  takes  place  between 
the  parts  of  the  same  substance,  must 
not  be  confounded  with  that  of  adhesion, 
which  is  the  attraction  of  different  sub- 
stances to  one  another ;  for  example,  the 
particles  of  a  piece  of  wood  are  united  by 
cohesive  attraction,  whilst  the  union  of 
lue  and  wood  to  each  other  depends  on 
adhesive  attraction.  And  it  is  important 
;hat  this  distinction  be  borne  in  mind, 
for,  in  almost  all  cases,  the  cohesion  be- 
tween the^particles  of  the  cement  is  very 
much  less  than  the  adhesion  of  thn 


70 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


cement  to  other  bodies;  and  if  torn 
apart,  the  connected  joint  gives  way— 
not  by  the  loosening  of  the  adhesion — 
but  by  the  layer  of  cement  splitting 
down  the  centre.  Hence  the  important 
rule,  that  the  less  cement  in  a  joint,  the 
stronger  it  is.  Domestic  manipulators 
usually  reverse  this,  by  letting  as  much 
cement  as  possible  remain  in  the  joint, 
which  is,  therefore,  necessarily  a  weak 
one.  A  thick,  nearly  solid  cement,  which 
cannot  be  pressed  out  of  the  joint,  is  al- 
ways inferior  to  a  thinner  one,  of  which 
merely  a  connecting  film  remains  between 
the  united  surfaces. 

Having  thus  mentioned  the  general 
principles  that  ought  always  to  be  borne 
in  mind,  we  will  now  proceed  to  describe 
the  manufacture  of  some  of  the  more  use- 
ful cements,  and  their  mode  of  use. 

Mouth  Glue  affords  a  very  convenient 
means  of  uniting  papers,  and  other  small 
light  objects;  it  is  made  by  dissolving 
by  the  aid  of  heat,  pure  glue,  or  gelatine, 
with  about  one  quarter  or  one-third  of 
its  weight  of  coarse  brown  sugar,  in  as 
small  a  quantity  of  boiling  water  as  pos- 
sible ;  this,  when  perfectly  liquid,  should 
be  cast  into  thin  cakes  on  a  flat  surface 
very  slightly  oiled,  and  as  it  cools  cut  up 
into  pieces  of  a  convenient  size.  When 
required  for  use  one -end  may  be  moist- 
•  ened  by  the  moutn,  and  is  then  ready  to 
be  rubbed  on  any  substances  it  may  be 
wished  to  join ;  a  piece  kept  in  the  desk 
or  work-box  is  very  convenient. 

Paste  is  usually  made  by  rubbing  up 
flour  with  cold  water  and  boiling ;  if  a  lit- 
tle alum  is  mixed  before  boiling  it  is 
much  improved,  being  less  clammy, 
working  more  freely  in  the  brush  and 
thinner ;  a  less  quantity  is  required,  and 
it  is  therefore  stronger.  If  required  in 
large  quantity,  as  for  papering  rooms,  it 
may  be  made  by  mixing  one  quartern  of 
flour,  one  quarter  pound  of  alum  and  a 
little  warm  water  ;  when  mixed,  the  re- 


quisite quantity  of  boiling  water  should 
be  poured  on  whilst  the  mixture  is 
being  stirred.  Paste  is  only  adapted  to 
cementing  paper;  when  used  it  should 
be  spread  on  one  side  of  the  paper,  which 
should  then  be  folded  with  the  pasted 
side  inwards,  and  allowed  to  remain  a  few 
minutes  before  being  opened  and  used; 
this  swells  the  paper,  and  permits  its 
being  more  smoothly  and  securely  at 
tached.  Kept  for  a  few  days,  paste  be- 
comes mouldy,  and  after  a  short  time 
putrid ;  this  inconvenience  may  be  ob- 
viated by  the  use  of — 

Permanent  Paste,  made  by  adding  to 
each  half-pint  of  flour  paste  without 
alum,  fifteen  grains  of  corrosive  sublimate, 
previously  rubbed  to  powder  in  a  mortar, 
the  whole  to  be  well  mixed ;  this,  if  pre- 
vented from  drying,  by  being  kept  in  a 
covered  pot,  remains  good  any  length  of 
time,  and  is  therefore  convenient;  but 
unfortunately  it  is  extremely  poisonous, 
though  its  excessively  nauseous  taste 
would  prevent  its  being  swallowed  ac- 
cidentally; it  possesses  the  great  ad- 
vantage of  not  being  liable  to  the  attacks 
of  insects. 

Liquid  Glue  is  made  by  dissolving 
shell-lac  in  water,  by  boiling  it  with 
borax,  which  possesses  the  peculiar 
property  of  causing  the  solution  of  the 
resinous  lac.  This  preparation  is  con- 
venient for  its  cheapness  and  freedom 
from  smell,  but  it  gives  way  if  exposed 
to  long-continued  damp,  which  that  made 
with  naphtha  resists. 

Of  the  use  of  common  glue,  very  little 
need  be  said  ;  it  should  also  be  prepared 
in  a  glue -pot  or  double  vessel  to  prevent 
its  being  burned,  which  injures  it  very 
materially.  The  objection  to  the  use  of 
this  contrivance  is,  that  it  renders  it  im- 
possible to  heat  the  glue  in  the  inner 
vessel  to  the  boiling  point ;  this  incon- 
venience can  be  obviated  by  employing 
in  the  outer  vessel  soirie  liquid,  which 


DOMESTIC   MANIPULATION. 


71 


boils  at  a  higher  temperature  t  than  pure 
water,  such  as  saturated  solution  of  salt. 
This  boils  at  224°  Fahr.,  12°  above  the 
heat  of  boiling  water,  and  enables  the 
glue  in  the  inner  vessel  to  be  heated  to 
a  much  higher  temperature  than  when 
pure  water  is  employed.  If  a  saturated 
solution  of  nitre  is  used,  the  temperature 
rises  still  higher. 

Waterproof  Cements  are  very  numer- 
ous ;  a  very  good  one  for  uniting  china 
and  glass  will  .be  found  elsewhere.  It 
should  be  stated,  however,  that  the  gum 
ammoniac  should  be  alsx)  dissolved  in  a 
small  quantity  of  spirit.  Mastic,  used 
instead  of  ammoniac,  makes  a  clearer 
cement.  This  mixture,  under  various 
fanciful  titles,  is  usually  sold  at  a  most 
exorbitant  rate. 

Lime  and  Egg  Cement  is  frequently 
made  by  moistening  the  edges  to  be 
united,  with  white  of  egg,  dusting  on 
some  lime  from  a  piece  of  muslin,  and 
bringing  the  edges  into  contact.  A  much 
better  mode  is  to  slake  some  freshly 
burned  lime  with  a  small  quantity  of 
loiling  water ;  this  occasions  it  to  fall 
into  a  very  fine  dry  powder,  if  excess  of 
water  has  not  been  added.  The  white 
of  egg  used  should  be  intimately  and 
thoroughly  mixed,  by  beating,  with  an 
equal  bulk  of  water,  and  the  slaked 
lime  added  to  the  mixture,  so  as  to  form 
a  thin  paste  which  should  be  used 
speedily,  as  it  soon  sets.  This  is  a  valu- 
able cement,  possessed  of  great  strength, 
and  capable  of  withstanding  boiling 
water.  Cements  made  with  lime  and 
blood,  scraped  cheese,  or  curd,  may  be 
regarded  as  inferior  varieties  of  it. 
Cracked  vessels,  of  earthenware  and 
glass,  may  often  be  usefully,  though  not 
ornamentally  repaired  by  white  lead 
spread  on  strips  of  calico,  and  secured 
with  bands  of  twine.  But  in  point  of 
strength,  all  ordinary  cements  yield  .the 
palm  to  Jeffery's  Patented  Marine  Glue,  a 


compound  of  India-rubber,  shell-lac,  and 
coal-tar  naphtha.  When  applied  to  china 
or  glass,  the  substances  should  be  cau- 
tiously made  hot  enough  to  melt  the 
glue,  which  should  then  be  rubbed  on  the 
edges  so  as  to  become  fluid,  and  the  parts 
brought  into  contact  immediately.  When 
well  applied,  the  mended  stem  of  a  com- 
mon tobacco-pipe  will  breafc  at  any  other 
part,  in  preference  to  the  junction.  The 
color  of  the  glue  unfortunately  prevents 
its  being  used. 

The  Red  Cement^  which  is  employed 
by  instrument- makers  for  cementing 
glass  to  metals,  and  which  is  very  cheap, 
and  exceedingly  useful  for  a  variety  of 
purposesv  is  made  by  melting  five  parts 
of  black  resin,  one  part  of  yellow  wax, 
and  then  stirring  in,  gradually,  one  part 
of  red  ochre  or  Venetian  red,  in  fine 
powder,  and  previously  well  dried.  This 
cement  requires  to  be  melted  before  use, 
and  it  adheres  better  if  the  objects  to 
which  it  is  applied  are  warmed.  A  soft 
cement,  of  a  somewhat  similar  character, 
may  be  found  useful  for  covering  the 
corks  of  preserved  fruit,  and  other  bot- 
tles, and  it  is  made  by  melting  yellow 
wax  with  an  equal  quantity  of  resin,  or  of 
cojnmon  turpentine,  (not  oil  of  turpen- 
tine, but  the  resin),  using  the  latter  for 
a  very  soft  cement,  and  stirring  in,  as 
before,  some  dried  Venetian  red.  Bear- 
ing in  mind  our  introductory  remarks, 
it  will  be  seen  that  the  uniting  broken 
substances  with  a  thick  cement  is  disad- 
vantageous, the  object  being  to  bring  the 
surfaces  as  closely  together  as  possible. 
As  an  illustration  of  a  right  and  a  wrong 
way  of  mending,  we  will  suppose  a  plaster 
of  Paris  figure  broken ;  the  wrong  way 
to  mend  it  is  by  a  thick  paste  of  plaster, 
which  makes,  not  a  joint,  but  a  botch. 
The  right  way  to  mend  it,  is  by  means  of 
some  well-made  carpenter's  glue,  which, 
being  absorbed  into  the  porous  plaster, 
leaves  merely  a  film  covering  the  two 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


surfaces.    If  well  done,  the   figure 
stronger  there  than  elsewhere. 

One  useful  substance  is  termed  mastic 
cement,  which  is  used  for  making  a  supe- 
rior coating  to  inside  walls,  and  which 
must  not  be  confounded  with  the  resin 
mastic.  It  is  made  by  mixing  twenty 
parts  of  well-washed  and  sifted  sharp 
sand,  with  two  parts  of  litharge,  and  one 
of  freshly  burned  and  slaked  quick-lime, 
in  fine  dry  powder.  This  is  made  into  a 
putty,  by  mixing  with  linseed  oil ;  it  sets 
in  a  few  hours,  having  the  appearance  of 
light  stone ;  and  we  mention  it  as  it  may 
be  frequently  employed  with  advantage 
in  repairing  broken  stone-work  (as  stairs) 
by  filling  up  the  missing  parts.  fc  The  em- 
ployment of  Roman  cement,  plaster,  &c., 
for  masonry  work,  hardly  <comes  within 
the  limits  of  Domestic  Manipulation. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

DIVIDING,  POWDERING,  GRINDING,  ETC. 

THE  operations  of  chopping,  powder- 
ing, grinding,  &c.,  are  so  frequently  re- 
quired in  cooking,  and  the  other  branches 
of  domestic  economy,  as  to  render  apy 
description  of  their  utility  wholly  unne- 
cessary; and  we  may  therefore  confine 
ourselves  to  describing  the  best  means 
of  accomplishing  the  object  desired. 
Powdering  is  usually  performed  by  the 
aid  of  the  pestle  and  mortar.  Most  of 
the  works  on  Cookery  recommend  the 
use  of  a  marble  mortar ;  this  material 
is  about  one  of  the  worst  that  could  be 
selected  for  the  purpose.  In  the  first 
place,  it  is  expensive ;  secondly,  it  is  ra- 
pidly corroded,  even  by  the  weak  acids 
used  for  food;  thirdly,  it  is  readily 
stained  by  oily  substances ;  fourthly,  it 
is  absorptive  of  strong  flavors,  impart- 
ing them  readily  to  the  next  substance 
pounded;  and  lastly,  it  is  brittle,  and 


even  if  not  broken,  is  not  calculated  to 
withstand  much  wear.  By  far  the  best 
material  for  the  purpose  is  the  Wedge- 
wood  ware;  mortars  made  of  it  are 
cheaper,  cleaner  in  use,  and  stronger  than 
those  of  marble,  and  are  not  corroded  by 
acids  or  alkalies — their  pre-eminence  is 
so  great,  that  they  are  invariably  used 
by  druggists. 

The  act  of  powdering  requires  great 
tact  and  practice  to  perform  it  neatly  and 
rapidly.  After  the  object  has  been  bro- 
ken into  small  pieces  by  blows  from  the 
pestle,  a  grinding  action  is  required ;  this 
should  at  first  be  given  by  striking  the 
fragments,  not  in  the  centre  of  the  mor- 
tar, but  towards  the  side  furthest  from 
the  operator ;  the  pestle,  by  this  means, 
grinds  over  them  in  its  descent  to  the 
centre,  and  much  more  rapidly  accom- 
plishes their  division  than  if  mere  blows 
are  given.  After  the  object  has  been  di- 
vided to  a  certain  extent,  blows  are  en- 
tirely useless,  and  a  grinding  in  circles 
becomes  requisite;  if  the  circle  is  con- 
fined to  one  part  of  the  mortar,  the  same 
portions  get  rubbed  over  and  over  again, 
the  others  escaping ;  this  is  avoided  by 
constantly  and  regularly  altering  the 
size  of  the  circles.  If  they  are  com- 
menced in  the  centre,  they  should  grad- 
ually increase  in  size  until  the  sides  are 
reached,  and  then  contract  again,  and  so 
on.  By  this  means  the  whole  of  the 
powder  is  brought  un- 
der the  action  of  the 
pestle,  and  the  operation 

/  \il  iiir\ is  much  <iuicker  than  tf 

/  1  1 1  111  \  performed  at  random. 
One  great  fault  usually 
committed  in  powder- 
ing, is  the  endeavor  to 
operate  on  too  large  a 
quantity  of  material  at 
one  time.  The  opera- 
Fig.  9.  tion  is  much  more  ra- 

pidly conducted  if  small'  portions  are  ta- 


DOMESTIC   MANIPULATION. 


73 


ken  ;  and  if  the  material,  is  tough,  and 
contains  much  fibrous  matter,  the  process 
may  be  very  much  shortened  by  remov- 
ing those  parts  which  are  sufficiently 
powdered,  by  sifting  from  time  to  time 
through  a  sieve.  This  may  be  objection- 
able, however,  from  the  fine  powder  es- 
caping into  the  air ;  in  this  case,  the  fol- 
lowing contrivance  will  be  found  useful : 
A  cylindrical  tea-canister  of  the  requi- 
site size  is  taken,  with  a  loosely  fitting 
lid  (or  if  tight,  the  lid  may  be  enlarged 
by  four  slits  being  made  partly  up  the 
sides  ) ;  a  bag  of  lawn  is  dropped  into 
the  canister,  the  top  being  turned  over 
the  edge  ;  the  powder  to  be  sifted  is  put 
in  a  bag,  the  lid  put  on,  and,  by  tapping 
and  shaking,  the  finest  portions  pass  into 
the  canister  without  any  escaping  into 
the  air — a  point  of  very  considerable  im- 
portance where  the  powder  is  irritating 
or  expensive. 

All  vegetable,  and  many  mineral  sub- 
stances, are  much  more  readily  pow- 
dered after  having  been  thoroughly  dried ; 
so  far  is  this  process  carried,  that  many 
drugs  are  dried  so  as  to  lose  fifteen  per 
cent,  of  their  weight  before  powdering. 
After  drying,  substances  should  not  be 
exposed  to  the  air,  but,  unless  they  are 
of  such  a  nature  as  to  be  softened  by 
heat,  are  better  operated  on  whilst  still 
warm.  Flints  are  more  readily  powdered 
by  being  heated  to  redness  and  quenched 
in  cold  water ;  charcoal,  for  tooth  pow- 
der, whilst  still  warm  from  drying. 
Gum  can  only  be  powdered  Vhilst  per- 
fectly dry.  Camphor,  which  is  with 
great  difficulty  powdered  alone,  yields 
readily  if  a  drop  or  two  of  spirit  is 
poured  on  it.  Substances  which  clog 
together  and  cake  under  the  pestle,  are 
not  uncommon ;  to  these  it  is  sometimes 
requisite  to  add  sand,  which  may  after- 
wards be  separated — this  prevents  the 
clogging ;  but  its  use  is  often  impractica- 
ble. Lime,  if  required  in  very  fine  pow- 


der, for  dusting  over  plants  to  kill  slugs, 
&c.,  is  readily  obtained  by  slaking  it, 
when  fresh  burned,  with  'boiling  water ; 
when,  if  too  much  water  is  not  used,  it 
falls  into  an  exceedingly  fine  powder. 

Sal-ammoniac,  and  some  other  saline 
bodies,  are  most  readily  powdered  by  dis- 
solving them  in  as  small  a  quantity  of 
boiling  water  as  possible,  and  stirring  the 
solution  rapidly  as  the  water  is  boiled 
away,  or  as  the  solution  cools.  Before 
dismissing  the  pestle  and  mortar,  we  may 
allude  to  its  use  in  mixing  powders  to- 
gether, although  a  much  more  ready  mode 
of  doing  this  is  with  a  sieve.  Two  or 
more"  powders  stirred  together  and  passed 
two  or  three  times  through  a  sieve,  are 
much  more  intimately  mixed,  than  if 
rubbed  for  a  long  time  in  a  mortar. 
Metals  cannot  be  divided  in  the  mortar ; 
the  most  convenient  mode  of  proceeding, 
if  they  are  fusible  under  a  white  heat,  is 
to  melt  them,  and  pour  them  whilst 
liquid  into  a  pail  of  water,  which  should 
be  full  to  avoid  any  spluttering,  and  the 
hotter  the  metal,  the  more  filmy  the  par- 
ticles. It  is  scarcely  requisite  to  state, 
that  the  metal  should  be  poured  in  a  cir- 
cle, so  as  not  to  collect  at  one  place. 

Chopping  is  usually  performed  in  the 
kitchen,  with  a  large  common  knife ;  but 
is  more  speedily  done  by  some  of  the 
improved  contrivances  similar  to  the  fol- 
lowing : — The  chopping-board  should  be 


Fig.  10.  Mff.  11. 

made  of  hard  wood,  with  the  grain  at 
right  angles  to  the  surface  of  the  board, 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


by  which  it  is  rendered  much  more  dura- 
ble, than  if  they  are  parallel  to  it.  The 
chopping-knives  should  be  fixed  at  right 
angles  to  the  handles,  and  may  be  either 
of  the  preceding  patterns.  If  a  large 
quantity  of  material  has  to  be  acted  on, 
we  would  recommend  a  board  as  above, 
not  less  than  three  inches  thick,  and 
smooth  on  both  sides,  so  that  either  may 
be  used,  of  the  requisite  size— say  eigh- 
teen inches  or  two  feet  in  diameter.  On 
this  should  stand  a  loose  bottomless  tub, 
to  confine  the  materials,  and.  the  whole 
resting  on  the  floor,  should  be  used  with 
a  knife,  sufficiently  long  in  the  handle  to 
be  employed  by  a  person  standing  erect, 
and  it  should  have  a  small  cross-bar  for 
the  hands,  as  shown  in  Fig.  12. 

Small  chopping-knives  are  sold,  con- 
sisting of  three  blades  riveted  together ; 
and  a  very  convenient  one  is  made  by 
fastening,  at  convenient  distances,  a  num- 
ber of  flat  circular  disks,  sharpened  at 
the  edges,  to  a  central  axis  with  a  han- 
dle at  each  end. 

Many  substances,  such  as  stale  bread, 
dried  herbs,  &c.,  may  be  very  conven- 
iently powdered  by  rubbing  them  through 


fig.  12. 

a  wire  sieve,  of  the  requisite  degree  of 
fineness.  Herbs  intended  for  use  in  this 
way,  should  be  dried  as  rapidly  as  possi- 
ble, without  being  scorched,  in  small 
heaps,  before  the  fire ;  parsley  and  others 
done  in  this  way,  may  be  powdered,  re- 


taining their  bright  green  color  and  fla- 
vor, both  of  which  are  preserved  if  they 
are  corked  tightly  in  bottles,  and  kept  in 
a  dry,  dark  cupboard.  The  use  of  waxed 
naper  to  preserve  dried  powders  in,  or  for 
tying  them  down  in  jars,  or  generally  as 
a  very  good  substitute  for  bladder,  will 
often  be  found  convenient.  It  is  readily 
made  by  laying  a  sheet  of  smooth  stout 
paper  on  a  warm  iron  plate,  as  the  top  of 
a  kitchen  oven ;  on  this  place  the  thin 
tissue  or  other  paper  to  be  waxed ;  put 
a  piece  of  wax  on  it,  and  as  it  melts,  rub 
it  over,  spreading  it  evenly.  One  end  of 
a  cork,  covered  with  two  thicknesses  of 
linen,  answers  very  well  for  a  rubber. 
If  a  hot  plate  is  not  at  hand,  the  sheet 
of  paper  may  be  held  before  the  fire,  and 
rubbed  over,  as  it  warms,  with  the  cut 
edge  of  a  cake  of  white  wax ;  but  this 
requires  the  co-operation  of  two  persons. 


CHAPTER  XV. 

KNOTS,  PACKAGES,  PARCELS,  ETC. 

THE  poet  Crabbe,  speaking  of  the  writ- 
ing of  the  rustics,  signing  his  parish  reg- 
isters, says — 

"  'Tis  strange  that  men 

Who  guide  the  plough  should  fail  to  guide  the  pen ! 
For  half,  a  mile  the  furrows  even  lie ; 
For  half  an  inch  the  letters  stand  awry." 

A  parallel  remark  might  with  equal 
justice  be  made  on  the  gentler  sex,  who, 
after  exercising  a  degree  of  tact,  neat- 
ness, and  tasteful  invention,  that  the  self- 
styled  "  lords  of  the  creation  "  might  in 
vain  hope  to  rival,  in  the  formation  of  a 
piece  of  needlework,  knitting,  netting,  or 
crochet,  are,  for  the  most  part,  totally 
unable,  when  it  is  finished,  to  tie  it  up  so 
as  to  make  a  decent  parcel ;  ladies'  pack- 
ages are,  in  fact,  the  opprobrium  of  the 
sex— the  annoyance  of  all  carriers,  who 


DOMESTIC   MANIPULATION. 


75 


have  any  thing  to  do  with  their  convey- 
ance, and  the  torment  of  their  owners  ; 
the  cords  are  certain  to  become  loose,  the 
knots  are  sure  to  slip,  except  when  a 
slip-knot  is  requisite,  and  then  it  is  a  fix- 
ture !  It  is  in  the  hope  that  we  may  be 
instrumental  in  improving  this  state  of 
things,  that  we  are  induced  to  devote  this 
chapter  to  Knots,  Packages,  Parcels,  &c., 
and  we  shall  at  once  lay  before  our  fair 
readers  a  method  of  tying  a  parcel  neatly 
and  securely,  and  at  the  same  time  afford- 
ing facilities  for  releasing  the  contents 
without  destroying  the  string  by  cutting 
it  away — a  too  ordinary  practice-,  espe- 
cially where  tune  is  an  object. 

The  most  simpje  purpose  for  which  a 
knot  is  required,  is  the  fastening  togeth- 


Fig.  13. 

er  of  two  pieces  of  string  or  cord :  the 
knot  selected  for  this  purpose  should  pos- 
sess two  important  properties  ; — it  should 
be  secure  from  slipping,  and  of  small  size. 
Nothing  is  more  common  than  to  see  two 
cords  attached  together  in  a  manner  sim- 
ilar to  that  shown  in  Fig.  13.  It  is 
scarcely  possible  to  imagine  a  worse  knot ; 
it  is  large  and  clumsy,  and  as  the  cords 
do  not  mutually  press  each  other,  it  is 
certain  to  slip  if  pulled  with  any  great 
force.  In  striking  contrast  to  this — the 
worst  of  all,  we  place  one  of  the  best ; 
namely,  the  knot  usually  employed  by 
netters,  and  which  is  called  by  sailors 
"  the  sheet-bend."  It  is  readily  made 
by  bending  one  of  the  pieces  of  cord  into 
a  loop  (a  5,  Fig.  14),  which  is  to  be 
held  between  the  finger  and  thumb  of  the 
left  hand;  the  other  cord  c  is  passed 
through  the  loop  from  the  farther  side 
then  round  behind  the  two  legs  of  the 
loop,  and  lastly,  under  itself,  the  loose 
end  coming  out  at  d.  In  the  smallness 


of  its  size,  and  the  firmness  with  which 
the  various  parts  grip  together,  this  knot 
surpasses  every  other:  it 
can,  moreover,  be  tied  read- 
ily when  one  of  the  pieces, 
J,  is  exceedingly 


viz.     a 
short  j 


hi 


common  stout 
twine,  less    than  an    inch 
being  sufficient  to  form  the 
loop.    The  above  method 
'of  forming  it  is  the  sim- 
plest to  describe,  although 
not  the  most  rapid  in  prac- 
tice ;  as  it  may  be  made  in 
much  less  time  by  crossing 
the  two  ends  of  cord  (a 
„          5,  Fig.  15)  on  the  tip  of 
\\         the  fore-finger  of  the  left 
Mff'  14       hand,    and    holding   them 
firmly  by  the  left  thumb,  which  covers 
the  crossing  ;  then  the  part  c  is  to  be 
b 


Fig.  15. 

wound  round  the  thumb  in  a  loop  as 
shown  in  the  figure,  and  passed  between 
the  two  ends,  behind  a  and  before  5  ;  the 
knot  is  completed  by  turning  the  end  5 
downwards  in  front  of  d,  passing  it  through 
the  loop,  securing  it  under  the  left  thumb, 
and  tightening  the  whole  by  pulling  d. 
As  formed  in  this  mode,  it  is  more  rapidly 
made  than  almost  any  other  knot ;  and, 
as  before  stated,  it  excels  all  in  security 


76 


THE    PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


and  compactness,  so  firmly  do  the  various 
turns  grip  each  other,  that  after  having 
been  tightly  pulled,  it  is  very  difficult  to 
untie  ;  this  the  only  drawback  to  its  use- 
fulness, and  in  this  respect  it  is  inferior 
to  the  reef-knot,  Fig.  16,  which  is  made 
in  precisely  the  same  manner  that  a  shoe- 
string is  tied,  only  pulling  out  the  ends 
instead  of  leaving  them  as 
bows.  The  only  precaution 
necessary  in  making* a  reef- 
knot  is,  to  observe  that  the 
two  parts  of  each  string  are 
on  the  same  side  of  the  loop ; 
if  they  are  not,  the  ends  (and 
the  bows  if  any  are  formed) 
are  at  right  angles  to  the 
cords;  the  knot  is  less  se- 
cure, and  is  termed  by  sailors 
a  granny-knot.  Other  knots 
are  occasionally  used  to  con-  /, 
nect  two  cords,  but  it  is  un-  A 
necessary  to  describe  them,| 
as  every  useful  purpose  may  I 
be  answered  by  those  above- 
mentioned.  Pig,  16. 

The  binding  knot  (Figs.  17  and  18)  is 


Fig.  17. 


exceedingly  useful  in  connecting  broken 
sticks,  rods,  &c.,  but  -  some  difficulty  is 
often  experienced  in  fastening  it  at  the 
finish ;  if,  however,  the  string  is  placed 
over  the  part  to  be  united,  as  shown  in 
Fig.  17,  and  the  long  end  5,  used  to  bind 
around  the  rod,  and  finally  passed 
through  the  loop  «,  as  shown  in  Fig.  18, 
it  is  readily  secured  by  pulling  d,  when 
the  loop  is  drawn  in,  and  fastens  the  end 
of  the  cord. 

For  fastening  a  cord  to  any  cylindrical 
object,  one  of  the  most  useful  knots  is 
the  clove  hitch,  which,  although  exceed- 
ingly simple  and  most  easily  made,  is  one 
of  the  most  puzzling  knots  to  the  unin- 
itiated. There  are  several  modes  of  form- 
ing it,  the  most  simple  being  perhaps  as 
follows : — make  two  loops,  precisely  simi- 


Fig.  19. 

lar  in  every  respect  as  a  and  5,  Fig.  19, 
then  bring  b  in  front  of  a,  so  as  to  make 
both  loops  correspond,  and  pass  them 
over  the  object  to  be  tied,  tightening  the 
ends ;  if  this  is  properly  done,  the  knot 
will  not  slip,  although  surrounding  a  tol- 
erably smooth  cylindrical  object,  as  a  pil- 
lar, pole,  &c.  This  knot  is  employed  by 
surgeons  in  reducing  dislocations  of  the 
last  joint  of  the  thumb,  and  by  sailors  in 
?reat  part  of  the  standing  rigging.  The 
loop  which  is  formed  when  a  cable  is 
passed  around  a  post  or  tree  to  secure  a 
vessel  near  shore,  is  fastened  by  what 
sailors  term  two  half  hitches,  which  is 
simply  a  clove  hitch  made  by  the  end  of 
the  rope  which  is  passed  around  the  post 
or  tree,  and  then  made  to  describe  the 
clove  hitch  around  that  part  of  itself 
which  is  tightly  strained. 

From  the  tying  of  knots  we  may  pass 
on  to  the  tying  over  of  bottles,  preserves, 
jars,  &c.j  the  object  with  which  this 


DOMESTIC   MANIPULATION. 


77 


operation  is  performed  is  either  to  pre- 
vent the  excess  of  air  or  the,  escape  or 
entrance  of  moisture  ;  the  act  itself  is  so 
very  simple  as  to  require  no  explanation ; 
but  a  few  words  may  be  said  on  the 
choice  of  material,  which  should  be  varied 
so  as  to  suit  the  exigencies  of  each  particu- 
lar case.  When  a  vessel  of  spirit  is  to 
be  tied  over,  leather  is  frequently  select- 
ed— a  very  erroneous  practice,  as  the  va- 
por of  spirit  passes  readily  through  that 
substance,  but  cannot  penetrate  bladder, 
which  should  be  invariably  used  for  the 
purpose.  So  effectually  is  spirit  con- 
fined by  bladder,  that  when  weak  spirits 
are  put  into  bladders  or  into  vessels  tied 
over  with  bladder,  and  allowed  to  remain 
some  time,  they  are  strengthened,  as  the 
vapor  of  the  water  passes  away,  that  of 
the  spirit  being  retained. 

Bladder  or  other  animal  membranes  of 
the  same  nature,  in  a  moist  and  flaccid 
state,  are  usually  selected  for  tying  over 
preserves  and  jams,  for  which  they  are 
well  adapted.  Many  persons  place  a  thin 
piece  of  brandied  paper  in  the  jar  resting 
on  the  jam,  in  addition  to  tying  it  down ; 
this  assists  in  excluding  air  and  prevent- 
ing mouldiness,  but  we  have  found  a  piece 
of  very  thin  paper  moistened  with  white 
of  egg  much  more  efficacious.  The  thin 
sheet-lead  used  for  lining  the  interior  of 
tea-chests,  or  stout  tin-foil,  is  very  advan- 
tageously used  in  tying  down  vessels  con- 
taining specimens  of  natural  history  pre- 
served in  spirits,  as  they  effectually  pre- 
vent the  escape  of  the  latter  for  a  long 
series  of  years.  The  plan  usually  pursued 
is  to  tie  the  cork  over  first  with  a  single 
bladder,  then  with  the  metal,  and  finally 
with  a  second  piece  of  bladder,  which  is 
afterwards  covered  with  a  coat  of  black 
paint. 

The  tying  up  of  parcels  in  paper  is  an 
operation  which  is  seldom  neatly  per- 
formed by  persons  whose  occupations 
have  not  given  them  great  facilities  for 
constant  practice.  Whether  the  paper  be 


wrapped  round  the  objects,  as  is  the  case 
usually  when  it  is  much  larger  than  suffi- 
cient to  enclose  them,  or  merely  folded 
over  itself,  as  is  done  by  druggists,  who 
cut  the  paper  to  the  required  size,  it  is  im- 
portant that  the  breadth  of  the  paper 
should  be  no  longer  than  sufficient  to 
enable  it  to  be  folded  over  the  ends  of 
the  object  enclosed,  without  passing  over 
the  opposite  side;  it  is  impossible  to 
make  a  neat  or  close  parcel  with  paper 
which  is  too  broad ;  excess  in  length  may 
be  readily  disposed  of  by  wrapping  it 
round ;  but  excess  of  breadth  should  be 
cut  away.  With  regard  to  turning  in  the 
ends  the  mode  adopted  by  grocers  is  the 
best.  The  most  common  cause  of  failure 
in  parcels  is  their  being  badly  corded ; 
we  will,  therefore,  (however  unnecessary 
the  description  of  so  simple  a  perform- 
ance may  appear  to  those  already  ac- 
quainted with  it),  describe  the  most 
readily  acquired  mode  of  cording. 

Let  a  single  knot  be  made  in  the  end 
of  the  cord,  which  is  then  passed  round 
the  box  or  parcel.  This  knotted  end  is 
now  tied  by  a  single  hitch  round  the  mid- 
dle of  the  cord  (Fig.  20),  and  the  whole 
pulled  tight.  The  cord  itself  is  then  car- 
ried at  right  angles  round  the  end  of  the 
parcel,  and  where  it  crosses  the  transverse 
cord  on  the  bottom  of  the  box  (Fig.  21), 
it  should  (if  the  parcel  is  heavy,  and  re- 
j  quilts  to  be  firmly  secured)  be  passed 
over  the  cross  cord,  then  back  underneath 
it,  and  pulled  tightly,  then  over  itself; 
lastly,  under  the  cross  cord,  and  on 
around  the  other  end  of  the  box.  When 


Fiff.  20. 

it  reaches  the  top  it  musi  be  secured  by 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


passing  it  under  at  that  part  of  the  cord 
which  runs  lengthways  (a,  Fig.  20),  pull- 
ing it  very  tight,  and  fastening  it  by  two 
half  hitches  round  itself  The  great  cause 


Fig.  21. 

of  parcels  becoming  loose  is  the  fact  of 
the  cord  being  often  fastened  to  one  of 
the  transverse  parts  (as  5,  Fig.  20),  in- 
stead of  the  piece  running  lengthways, 
and  in  this  case  it  invariably  becomes 
loose.  The  description  may  perhaps  be 
rendered  clearer  by  the  aid  of  the  figures, 
which  exhibit  the  top  and  bottom  of  a 
box  corded  as  described.  The  cords,  how- 
ever, are  shown  in  a  loose  state  to  allow 
their  arrangements  to  be  perceived  more 
easily. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

IN  spite  of  our  receipts  and  our  phi- 
losophy, the  briskness  of  the  fire,  the 
skill  of  our  cook,  the  excellence  of  the 
oven,  the  bright  array  of  pots,  kettles, 
pans,  moulds,  griddles  and  gridirons,  and 
the  presiding  genius  of  even  a  half  For- 
tunatus  sort  of  a  purse,  or  the  most 
rigid  scale  and  measure  of  economy,  one 
grand  puzzle  besets  alike  all  kitchens — 
the  difficulty  of  really  getting  the  ingredi- 
ents on  which  the  mystery  of  food  manu- 
facture is  to  be  exercised. 

The  very  water  we  have  to  cook  with 
is  crowded  with  millions  of  monsters — 
things  with  two  heads  and  no  heads, 
with  countless  legs  and  no  legs,  with 
jaws  and  pincers  and  claws,  and  most 


wonderful  springy  tails ;  in  some  water 
well  nigh^nough  of  them  to  make  a  sort 
of  soup,  to  say  nothing  of  the  chalk, 
lime,  iron,  and  a  host  of  other  impuri 
ties. 

The  sugar,  if  it  be  brown,  without  tak- 
ing note  of  such  items  as  a  little  lead,  a 
good  deal  of  sand,  some  clay  and  flour, 
is  pretty  nearly  as  thick  as  it  can  hold 
of  chips  of  cane  and  swarms  of  mites. 

Our  tea,  if  green,  is  painted  and  pol- 
ished with  Prussian  blue,  turmeric  pow- 
der, and  China  clay,  and  is  a  mixture  of 
all  the  leaves  that  the  wonderful  industry 
and  ingenuity  of  the  Chinese,  can  accom- 
plish ;  we  have  old  tea-leaves  dried  and 
twisted  up,  and  colored  and  glazed,  and 
sold  for  black  and  green ;  we  have  even 
gunpowder  made  up  of  dust  and  sand, 
and  gum,  faced  as  they  call  it  with  plum- 
bago. 

Coffee,  fragrant,  and  refreshing,  has 
almost  become  a  myth;  we  may  have 
pneumatic  coffee-pots  that  will  not  let 
the  finest  dust  pass  through  their  strain- 
ers, French  coffee-pots,  German  coffee- 
pots, and  all  kinds  of  traditional  direc- 
tions for  the  manufacture :  but  not  one 
of  them  can -help  us  to  make  coffee,  un- 
less as  good  old  Mrs.  Glass  would  say, 
"  we  have  first  got  our  coffee ; "  and  what 
with  foreign  roguery  and  home  roguery 
the  chances  are  twenty  to  one  against 
us,  that  the  brown  powder  we  are  at  so 
much  pains  with,  once  flourished  at  the 
end  of  a  blue  flower,  on  a  long  stalk 
under  our  own  hedges,  being  known 
where  it  grew  under  the  name  of  wild 
endive,  christened  in  trade  chicory,  and 
being  in  reality  a  tall  and  aristocratic 
sort  of  dandelion,  possessing  too  the  me- 
dicinal properties  of  dandelion,  and  none 
whatever  of  the  properties  of  coffee. 
But  even  if  people  be  taken  with  a  liking 
for  this  dandelion  tea  instead  of  coffee, 
they  cannot  have  it  pure.  The  chicory 
itself  is  far  top  costly  to  content  the 
avaricious  roguery  of  a  number  of  deal- 


WHAT   WE   EAT. 


ers,  and  so  it  is  adulterated  with  roasted 
corn,  parsnips,  manglewurzel,  beans, 
Egyptian  lupin  seed,  biscuit  powder, 
burnt  sugar,  roasted  carrots.,  oak  bark, 
tan,  acorns,  mahogany  sawdust,  and  no 
little  sand,  the  result  of  the  original  dirt 
judiciously  left  as  a  make-weight  upon 
the  root  of  the  chicory  itself. 

Mustard  can  scarcely  be  said  to  have 
even  the  color  of  mustard,  for  it  is  colored 
with  turmeric,  and  what  passes  for  mus- 
tard is  in  many  a  case  little  more  than 
mere  husks  and  flour. 

Pepper  is  messed  up  with  wheat  flour, 
mustard-seed  husks,  sago-meal,  pea  -flour, 
and  ware-house  sweepings ;  nor  does  it 
fare  better  with  food  for  invalids,  oat- 
meal being  mingled  with  far  less  diges- 
tive barley-meal  at  half  the  price.  Ar- 
row-root (which  it  should  be  understood 
is  the  produce  of  under-ground  branches 
or  bulbs  of  the  maranta  plant,  growing 
in  the  West  and  East  Indies,  having 
gained  its  name  of  arrow-root  from  the 
belief  that  it  was  a  remedy  against  poi- 
soned arrows,)  is  to  the  utmost  econo- 
mized ;  and  though  its  purity  is  often  of 
great  importance  to  the  invalid,  there  is 
for  the  most  part  sold  instead,  sago-flour, 
tapioca-flour,  and  most  commonjy  of  all, 
potato-starch. 

Milk  and  bread  are  not  so  much  adul- 
terated. But  the  milk,  partly  by  the 
kind  of  keep  of  the  cows,  partly  by  a 
little  careful  skimming,  and  in  a  multi- 
tude of  cases  by  the  liberal  aid  of  the 
pump,  is  duly  thinned.  Flour  and  breacfcj* 
of  old  mixed  with  plaster  of  Paris, 
ground  bones,  and  potato-starch — thanks 
to  the  cheapening  of  pure  materials,  has 
come  to  content  itself  with  alum  only. 
But  this  running  account  of  roguery, 
except  for  its  curiousness,  would  be  of 
little  use  without  a  few  hints,  as  to  par- 
tial detection  and  prevention. 

As  to  tea,  it  is  best  to  be  content  with 
black  tea  alone. 

For  sugar,  the  best  advice  is— if  you 


like  to  pay  for  dirt,  and  to  mix  it  with 
your  preserves,  puddings,  and  pastry,  and 
choose  to  believe  that  sugar  which'  mois- 
tens even  the  thick  paper  they  place  it  in, 
and  which  looks  dark,  smells  strong,  and 
sticks  to  your  fingers,  is  richer  in  sweet- 
ening than  clear  sparkling  white  sugar, 
out  of  which  notfe  of  the  sweetening  but 
all  of  the  dirt  has  been  washed — then 
buy  brown  sugar. 

"  Please  tell  the  people  over  the  way," 
said  a  gentleman,  "  that  I  would  take  it 
as  a  particular  favor,  if  in  future  they 
will  send  me  the  cow's  hairs  on  one 
plate,  and  the  butter  on  another,  and  I 
can  mix  them  myself  as  I  want  them." 
Such  is  our  advice  as  to  coffee.  It  seems 
beyond  the  reach  of  average  human  hon- 
esty to  sell  it  pure.  The  chicory  is  so 
fra*grant — so  wholesome — such  an  im- 
provement on  the  flavor  of  the  Arabian 
berry,  and  withal  so  much  cheaper,  that 
mixed  it  must  be.  We  say,  therefore, 
Buy  your  coffee  in  the  berry,  raw ;  your 
chances  are  at  all  events  fifty  to  one  bet- 
ter of  having  cofiee  only.  Roast  and 
grind  it  for  yourselves,  and,  if  you  like 
chicory  or  dandelion,  endive,  or  any  other 
weed  with  it,  why,  buy  the  roots,  scorch 
them  anjjl  grate  them,  and,  like  the  man 
with  the  hairs  in  his  butter,  mix  them 
to  your  taste.  But  do  not,  unless  you 
choose  to  cheat  your  stomachs,  buy 
ground  coffee.  A  mill  will  soon  pay  for 
itself;  and  at  all  events  never  purchase 
canisiered  or  bottled  coffee,  for  in  ninety- 
nine  cases  out  of  a  hundred  an  additional 
dose  of  dust  is  made  to.  pay  for  the  tin 
or  glass.* 

*  It  may  not  be  amiss  to  show  how  tea  is  made 
in  China,  and  coffee  amongst  the  Turks. 

The  art  of  making  tea  consists  in  pouring  the 
water  on  and  off  immediately,  so  as  to  get  the 
flavor. 

Coffee-making  is  a  more  intricate  affair,  and  can- 
not be  fully  conveyed  in  a  receipt.  The  coffee  must 
be  slowly  roasted,  not  burnt,  and  brought  only  to 
an  amber  brown ;  it  must  be  roasted  day  by  day,  and 
reduced  by  pounding  to  an  impalpable  powder.  In 
making  it,  two  opposite  and  apparently  incompati- 


80 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


As  to  water — every  one  knows  that 
plumbers  make  the  bottoms  of  the  cis- 
terns thicker  than  the  sides,  because  the 
water  eats  the  lead  away;  hard  water 
does  so  more  than  soft,  and  water  from 
the  sante  source  more  at  some  times 
than  others.  Lead,  as  the  phrase  is,  ac- 
cumulates in  the  system,  so  that  ev.er  so 
little,  taken  day  by  day,  at  length  sums 
up  to  a  poisonous  dose  sufficient  to  mar 
the  health.  The  remedy  for  this  mis- 
chief is  simply  to  have  the  pipes  made 
of  gutta  percha.  Many  spring  waters, 
though  of  course  free  from  the  animal 
impurities,  abound  still  more  in  the 
medicinal.  To  render  such  waters  fit  for 
healthful  use,  some  process  of  purifica- 
tion is  absolutely  essential,  and  such 
purification  very  perceptively  improves 
both  their  cooking  and  washing  proper- 
ties. 

Ordinary  filters  certainly  free  water 
from  a  considerable  quantity  of  dirt,  but 
not  from  the  medicinal  ingredients,  nor 
even  from  all  the  animalculae,  some  of 
which,  though  quite  visible  as  monsters 
with  a  microscope,  nevertheless  find 
their  way  through  the  filter.  One  of  the 
simplest  processes  of  purification,  if  peo- 
ple will  only  take  the  trouble  t$  perform 
it — and  it  is  surely  worth  it  for  the  in- 
crease of  comfort  and  the  advantage  to 
health — is — for  every  forty  gallons  that 
the  cistern  holds  to  pour  in  one  gallon  of 
lime-water  j  this  has  the  effect  of  throw- 

ble  ends  are  to  be  secured — strength  and  flavor.  To 
obtain  the  first,  it  must  be  boiled ;  by  boiling,  the 
second  is  lost.  The  difficulty  is  surmounted  by  a 
double  process, — one  thorough  cooking,  one  slight 
one ;  by  the  first  a  strong  infusion  is  obtained,  by 
the  second  that  infusion  is  flavored.  Thus  a  large 
pot  with  coffee-lees  stands  simmering  by  the  fire ; 
this  is  the  sherbet.  When  a  cup  is  wanted,  the 
pounded  coffee  is  put  in  the  little  tin  or  copper  pan, 
and  placed  on  the  embers  ;  it  fumes  for  a  moment, 
then  the  sherbet  is  poured  on ;  in  a  few  seconds  the 
Troth  (cairnah)  rises;  presently  an  indication  that 
It  is  about  to  boil  is  made  manifest,  when  the  coffee 
Is  instantly  taken  from  the  fire,  carried  into  the 
apartment,  turned  into  the  cup,  and  drunk."—  Ur- 
Qufu/rfs  Pillars  of  Hercvle*. 


ing  down  from  the  water  a  large  propor- 
tion of  the  chemical  ingredients,  and  no 
small  multitude  of.  the  animalculae. 
Another  method  of  purification  is  by 
long  slow  boiling,  then  allowing  the 
water  to  cool,  and  filtering  it.  Some 
trouble  no  doubt  there  is  in  any  such 
course ;  but  pure  water,  like  pure  air,  is 
essential  to  a  life  of  health,  and  those 
who  will  not  be  at  the  trouble,  must 
make  up  their  minds  to  some  degree  of 
infirmity  and  unhappiness. 

The  subject  of  the  Water-supply  to 
large  towns  is  one  of  the  highest  impor- 
tance to  the  well-being  of  the  commu- 
nity. > 

The  quality  of  water  for  domestic  pur- 
poses depends  mainly  upon  its  degree  of 
hardness  or  softness  ;  and  this  in  its  turn 
depends  almost  entirely  upon  the  quan- 
tity of  lime  dissolved  in  some  form  or 
other  in  the  water.  It  is  found,  upon 
experiment,  that  one  gallon  (weighing 
70,000  grains)  of  pure  water  will  not 
dissolve  more  than  two  grains  of  chalk, 
and  so  acquire  two  degrees  of  hardness ; 
and  that  whenever  more  is  contained  in 
water,  the  excess  is  always  owing  to  the 
presence  of  carbonic  acid  gas,  which  ena- 
bles it  to  dissolve  a  much  larger  quantity. 
The  practical  part  of  our  subject  depends 
on  this  fact ;  for  if  by  any  means  we  can 
get  rid  of  the  carbonic  acid,  the  dissolved 
chalk  is  necessarily  precipitated,  and  the 
hard  water,  unfit  for  culinary  and  domes- 
tic purposes,  becomes  soft,  and  well 
adapted  to  both  these  uses.  Carbonic 
acid  is  in  part  expelled  from  water  by 
heating  it  to  the  boiling  point:  a  still 
larger  quantity  is  got  rid  of  after  boiling 
for  some  few  minutes,  and  nearly  every 
trace  disappears  at  the  end  of  half  an 
hour  ;  and  just  in  proportion  as  the  car- 
bonic acid  gas  is  expelled,  so  does  the 
chalk  fall,  rendering  the  water  in  the  first 
instance  turbid,  and  becoming  deposit- 
ed .on  the  interior  surface  of  kettles, 


PURITY   OF   WATER. 


51 


where  it  forms  the  well-known  rock  of 
fur. 

It  has  been  found  that  water  of  14  de- 
grees of  hardness  lost  two  degrees  when 
merely  made  to  boil;  boiling  for  five 
minutes  reduced  the  hardness  to  6  de- 
grees ;  and  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  to 
little  more  than  4  degrees.  The  practi- 
cal application  of  this  knowledge  needs 
scarcely  to  be  pointed  out.  Whenever  a 
soft  water  is  required,  boil  for  several 
minutes  before  using.  In  making  tea,  for 
instance,  the  economy  and  general  supe- 
riority of  a  soft  water  is  well  known. 
How  many  a  young  gentleman,  with  a 
smattering  of  science  just  enough  to  in- 
form him  that  water  gets  no  hotter  how- 
ever long  or  violently  it  is  boiled,  has 
laughed  at  his  grandmother's  antiquated 
notions,  because  she  requested  that  the 
water  might  be  made  to  boil  thoroughly 
before  the  te.a  was  made :  the  old  lady 
could  give  no  very  satisfactory  explana- 
tion of  her  prejudice,  yet  it  was  not  the 
less  a  correct  one. 

Before  going  further  in  this  matter,  it 
may  be  stated  that  there  are  some  waters 
in  wtiich  the  lime  is  dissolved  in  the  form 
of  gypsum  (sulphate  of  lime)  :  in  these, 
the  hardness  is  of  a  permanent  character, 
and  cannot  be  lessened  by  boiling.  Tea 
made  under  such  circumstances  may  be 
improved,  either  by  the  addition  of  a 
very  small  quantity  of  carbonate  of  soda 
or  the  tea  should  be  kept  soaking  for  half 
an  hour,  under  such  circumstances  as 
will  retain  the  heat. 

In  washing,  the  use  of  hard  water  is 
as  is  well  known,  extremely  prejudicial 
The  explanation  is  exceedingly  simple 
every  degree  of  hardness  in  a  gallon  o 
water  destroys  10  grains  of  soap. 

There  is  one  practical  matter  of  grea 
importance,  to  which  we  wish  to  draw 
the  attention  of  all  concerned :  it  is  th 
effect  of  boiling  linen  in  hard  water.  I 
clothes  are  put  into  cold  water,  and  the 
boiled  the  precipitation  of  chalk  take 


lace  on  the  clothes,  and  whatever  color- 
ng  matter  exists  in  the  water  goes  down 
rith  the  chalk,  and  also  becomes  attached 
)  tlte  linen,  rendering  it  of  that  disa- 
reeable    and    unremovable    dirty  hue 
vhich  is  so  characteristic  of  certain  laun- 
ries.     If  boiling  is  absolutely  requisite 
or  white  fabrics,  it  should  be  done  in 
water  which  has  been  boiled  half  an  hour, 
llowed  to  stand,  and  then  poured  off 
rom  the  sediment ;  otherwise,  from  the 
mmediate  precipitation  of  the  chalk,  the 
irt  is  boiled  in  and  thoroughly  fixed  to 
he  fabric.     A  moment's   consideration 
ill  convince   any  one,  that  a  deposit 
imilar  to  the  fur  in  a  tea-kettle  cannot 
>e  expected  to  improve  the  appearance 
)f  white  linen.     Where  clean  rain  water 
can  be  obtained,  there  is  no  objection  to 
he  boiling  of  clothes  in  it ;  as,  being  ab- 
solutely free  from  lime,  no  precipitation 
:an  take  place.    The  use  of  soda  in  soft- 
jning  water  employed  in  washing,  is  well 
inown ;  but  the  remedy  is  not  without 
ts  own  evil :  it  weakens  the  fibre  of  the 
;loth,  and  unless  it  is  much  more  thor- 
oughly   removed    by    rinsing    than    is 
usually  the  case,  it  occasions  a  very  per- 
manent yellow  tinge  when  the  cloth  is 
heated. 


CHAPTER  XVH. 

BOILING,   STEWING,    ETC. 

FROM  considering  the  properties  of 
hard  and  soft  water,  we  pass  by  a  natural 
transition  to  the  employment  of  that 
liquid  in  culinary  operations.  In  prac- 
tice, nothing  can  at  first  sight  appear 
more  simple  than  the  operation,  of  boil- 
ing, whether  it  be  confined  to  the  .mere 
heating  of  a  liquid,  or  extended  to  the 
preparation  of  an  article  of  food ;  yet  it 
is  one  which  involves  chemical  principles 
of  a  very  high  order,  and  which  is  by  nc 


82 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


means  so  simple  a  matter  as  it  may  be 
regarded  at  a  cursory  glance. 

To  trace  the  steps  of  the  process  from 
its  commencement,  let  us  imagine  4  ves- 
sel of  water  placed  over  the  fire,  and  re- 
ceiving constantly  a  supply  of  heat  from 
that  source ;  the  effect  is,  that  its  tem- 
perature gradually  rises  from  about  50° 
or  60°,  the  usual  warmth  of  ordinary 
water,  to  212°,  the  point  at  which  boiling 
takes  place;  but  before  it  reaches  that 
height,  a  number  of  bubbles  may  be  ob- 
served foaming  on  the  sides  of  the  ves- 
sel ;  these  gradually  increase  in  size,  and 
when  they  become  sufficiently  buoyant, 
quit  their  position,  rise  to  the  surface, 
and  escape;  they  consist  of  air  previ- 
ously dissolved  in  the»water,  and  which 
is  expelled  by  the  increased  heat.  Water 
which  has  been  boiled  and  allowed  to 
become  cold,  without  much  exposure  to 
the  air,  fails  to  reabsorb  the  quantity  it 
previously  contained,  and  consequently 
hr.s  its  character  somewhat  altered. 
Thus,  it  freezes  more  readily  than  water 
which  has  not  been  boiled,  in  consequence 
of  the  air  not  having  to  be  expelled  in 
the  act  of  solidifying,  as  is  usually  the 
case :  hence,  the  ice  from  boiled  water  is 
free  from  those  numerous  air  bubbles 
which  are  always  to  be  observed  in  com- 
mon ice.  It  possesses  also  a  mawkish, 
unpleasant  taste,  and  is  totally  unable  to 
preserve  the  life  of  any  aquatic  animal. 
The  presence  of  this  minute  quantity  of 
air  in  ordinary  water,  is  very  essential  to 
its  utility.  Faraday  found  that  water, 
totally  destitute  of  air,  does  not  boil  in 
the  usual  mode,  but  when  heated  to  the 
boiling  point,  it  at  once,  with  an  instan- 
taneous and  violent  explosion,  passes  into 
the  form  of  steam.  This  strange  fact,  ' 
which  shows  upon  what  small,  and.  ap-  ! 
parently*  trivial  circumstances,  the  com- 
fort—nay, we  may  truly  say — the  exist- 
ence of  man  depends,  is  strikingly  shown 
by  a  very  ingenious  experiment,  devised  ' 
by  that  celebrated  chemist.  He  took  a  i 


piece  of  Wenham  Lake  ice,  (which,  from 
peculiar  local  causes,  such  as  being  formed 
from  spring  water,  is  totally  destitute  of 
air,)  and  melted  it  under  a  covering  of 
sweet  oil ;  this  prevented  the  absorption 
of  any  air  during  the  liquefaction;  on 
continuing  the  heat,  the  water  rose  in 
temperature,  and  on  reaching  the  boiling 
point,  suddenly  burst  into  steam,  with 
an  explosive  power  sufficiently  great  to 
scatter  the  glass  vessel  in  which  the  ex- 
periment was  made  into  fragments  ;  and 
had  it  not  been  for  a  protecting  covering 
of  wire  gauze,  very  serious  effects  might 
have  ensued. 

From  the  precipitation  of  the  dissolved 
chalk  present  in  most  kinds  of  water^  a 
cloudiness  or  slight  turbidity  is  always 
to  be  observed  in  boiled  water. 

After  the  escape  of  the  air,  bubbles  of 
steam,  at  first  very  small  in  size,  -  are 
formed  at  the  bottom  of  the  vessel,  those 
formed  at  first  are  at  once  cooled  from 
the  whole  water  not  being  of  an  equal 
temperature,  and  are  condensed  before 
they  reach  the  surface :  this  very  rapid 
and  successive  condensation  of  numerous 
small  bubbles  gives  rise  to  that  peculiar 
vibration  which  occasions  what  is  termed 
the  singing  of  the  teakettle,  and  which,  as 
is  well  known,  is  indicative  of  its  approach 
to  the  boiling  point ;  when  the  whole 
water  is  uniformly  heated,  this  effect  no 
longer  occurs,  but  the  bubbles  of  stean? 
rise  to  the  surface  and  escape.  After  hav- 
ing been  heated  to  212°,  the  temperature 
of  water  no  longer  rises ;  it  is  not  possible, 
under  ordinary  circumstances,  to  increase 
the  temperature  in  the  slightest  degree  ; 
for  all  the  extra  heat  that  is  given  to 
boiling  water  merely  produces  increased 
quantity  of  steam,  by  which  it  is  carried 
off,  without  affecting  the  heat  of  the  re- 
maining'water.  This  is  a  matter  of  con- 
siderable practical  importance  in  cookery; 
and  it  should  be  always  borne  in  mind, 
that  the  most  gentle  simmer  is  as  effica- 
cious in  cooking  as  the  most  violent  boil- 


BOILING. THE   BAIN   MARIE. 


83 


ing ;  for  the  degree  of  heat  in  both  cases 
is  precisely  the  same,  so  that  after  hav- 
ing once  raised  the  water  to  the  boiling 
point,  the  most  moderate  fire  is  sufficient 
in  ordinary  cases  to  keep  it  there;  by 
attention  to  this  point,  a  mo*st  enormous 
saving  may  often  be  effected  in  the  con- 
sumption of  fuel,  although  this  is  a  con- 
sideration that  will  be  more  fully  entered 
into  in  a  subsequent  chapter. 

Thick  liquids,  which  do  not  readily 
permit  the  escape  of  steam  or  the  rapid 
motion  between  the  particles  of  fluid, 
may,  however,  be  readily  heated  at  the 
part  exposed  to  the  fire  to  a  much  higher 
degree,  while  those  portions  not  imme- 
diately in  contact  with  the  heat  are  much 
colder ;  from  this  cause  they  are  very  apt 
to  be  charred,  and  if  articles  of  food, 
they  are  totally  spoiled.  To  avoid  this 
effect,  recourse  may  be  had  to  the  "bain 
marie,  which  is  simply  the  same  contri- 
vance that  may  be  observed  in  a  carpen- 
ter's glue-pot,  applied  to  the  preparation 
of  articles  of  food, — being  merely  an  inner 
vessel  to  contain  the  substance  to  be 
heated;  this  is  placed  in  an  outer  one, 
the  space  between  the  two  containing 
water.  O.n  placing  this  contrivance  on 
the  fire,  it  is  obvious  that  the  substance 
in  the  inner  vessel  being  heated  solely 
by  the  boiling  water,  cannot  possibly  be- 
come burnt.  This  most  useful  contrivance 
is  adopted  in  all  first-class  kitchens,  and 
is  equally  indispensable  in  the  chemist's 
laboratory ;  by  its  aid,  soups,  gravies,  &c., 
can  be  kept  hot  any  length  of  time  with- 
out; risk,  preserves  made  without  burning, 
&c.  The  chief  precautions  required  in  its 
use  are,  that  the  inner  vessel  should  be 
thin  and  formed  of  metal,  so  as  to  allow 
the  rapid  transmission  of  heat  from  boil- 
ing water,  and  care  should  be  taken  that 
the  outer  vessel  does  not  boil  dry.  One 
serious  disadvantage  attends  its  use  as  or- 
dinarily employed :  it  is,  that  it  is  impos- 
sible to  heat  substances  in  it  to  the  boil- 
ing point,  for  the  water  itself  is  only  at 


that  temperature:  and  the  substance  in 
the  inner  vessel  is  always  a  few  degrees 
below.  This  evil,  however,  may  be  en- 
tirely obviated,  by  using  a  solution  in  the 
outer  vessel,  which  boils  at  a  higher  tem- 
perature than  212°,  and  which  will  there- 
fore raise  the  inner  vessel  and  its  con- 
tents to  that  point ;  thus,  if  the  water  be 
made  to  dissolve  as  much  common  salt 
as  it  is  capable  of  doing,  it  will  not  boil 
until  it  is  heated  to  224° ;  or  if  it  is  satu- 
rated with  sal-ammoniac  or  nitre,  the 
heat  will  rise  12°  or  14°  higher.  We 
need  scarcely  say  that  the  first  of  these 
substances  will  be  found  a  very  useful 
•and  economical  addition  to  the  bain 
mane.  When  chemists  require  a  still 
higher  temperature,  they  have  recourse 
to  a  bath  of  olive  oil,  which  is  capable  of 
bearing  a  degree  of  heat  as  high  as  500° ; 
but  its  extreme  danger  over  an  open  fire 
entirely  precludes  its  use  in  any  culinary 
operation. 

The  mode  of  conducting  the  operation 
of  boiling  should  not  be  uniform,  but 
vary  with  the  different  purposes  required. 
Thus,  in  the  case  of  meat,  a  temperature 
of  212°  hardens,  instead  of  softening, 
two  of  the  substances  which  it  contains ; 
namely,  the  fibrine,  or  material  forming 
the  chief  part  of  the  muscular  fibre,  and 
the  albumen,  or  portion  which  is  analo- 
gous to  white  of  egg ;  if,  on  the  contrary, 
meat  is  cooked  by  means  of  water  at  a 
lower  temperature,  the  most  nutritious 
parts  are  dissolved  out,  and  the  solid 
food  left  comparatively  innutritions.  The 
celebrated  German  chemist,  Liebig,  pro- 
poses the  following  plan  : — he  recom- 
mends that  a  piece  of  meat  of  considera- 
ble size  should  be  taken  and  plunged  into 
perfectly  boiling  water,  over  a  good  fire ; 
that  the  water  should  be  kept  boiling  for 
a  few  minutes,  and  then  a  portion  of  cold 
water,  eqjial  in  quantity  to  about  one-half 
of  the  boiling  water,  should  be  thrown 
in :  this  will  reduce  the  temperature  to 
about  160°,  at  which  point  the  meat 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


should  be  kept  until  thoroughly  done ; 
which,  however,  takes  a  mueh  longer 
time  than  the  ordinary  mode. 

The  object  of  this  mode  of  proceeding 
is,  in  the  first  instance,  to  harden  the  ex- 
terior of  the  meat,  converting  it  into  a 
sort  of  crust,  which  prevents  the  escape 
of  the  nutritious  juices  into  the  water, 
while  the  long  continuance  of  the  gentle 
heat  afterwards  cooks  the  interior  with- 
out hardening  either  the  albumen  or  the 
fibrine.  Of  course,  where  the  object  of 
boiling  is  to  make  soup,  the  opposite  plan 
must  be  had  recourse  to;  the  meat 
should  be  in  small  instead  of  large  pieces, 
put  on  in  cold  water  and  very  slowly 
heated,  so  that  all  the  soluble  parts  may 
be  dissolved  before  the  fibre  is  hardened 
by  the  action  of  boiling  water. 

In  boiling  eggs,  the  effect  of  heat  in 
hardening  the  albumen  is  well  known ; 
by  being  suddenly  plunged  into  boiling 
water,  the  outside  is  hardened  to  the 
greatest  degree  of  which  it  is  capable, 
and  is  thereby  rendered  exceedingly  dif- 
ficult of  digestion,  while  the  inside  is 
barely  warmed ;  if,  on  the  contrary,  they 
are  placed  in  cold  water,  which  is  then 
raised  to  the  boiling  point,  removed  from 
the  fire,  and  allowed*  to  stand  about  a 
minute  (or  two,  if  required  to  be  well 
done,)  it  will  be  found  that,  instead  of 
having  an  almost  leathery  consistence, 
the  white  will  be  uniformly  partially 
hardened,  and  will  furnish  a  much  more 
pleasant  and  digestible  article  of  diet; 
the  improvement,  in  fact,  is  so  great,  that 
common  eggs  cooked  in  this  manner  very 
nearly  approach  new  laid  ones  in  quality. 
If  the  operation  of  boiling  has  to  be 
performed  on  any  substance  containing 
starchy  matters— as  potatoes,  rice,  flour, 
&c.,  then  the  heat  must,  on  the  contrary, 
be  raised  to  a  sufficient  degree  to  burst 
the  little  grains  of  which  the  starch  con- 
sists, and  liberate  the  interior  nutritious 
portions,  before  it  can  become  fit  food 


for  man;  uncooked  starch  not  being 
readily  or  easily  digested.  And  even  in 
the  case  of  those 'Vegetable-fee ding  ani- 
mals whose  power  of  digesting  such  sub- 
stances surpasses  that  of  man,  there  is 
the  greatest  advantage  to  be  derived  from 
the  use  of  cooked,food,  as  the  most  intelli- 
gent and  scientific  farmers  at  the  present 
day  well  know ;  and  we  would  strongly 
urge  on  those  of  our  readers  who  keep 
pigs  to  try  the  experiment  of  baking  the 
potatoes  they  give  them ;  for  this  process, 
like  boiling,  has  the  effect  of  bursting  the 
starch  grains;  they  will  find  the  effect 
to  be,  that  the  food  will  go  much  further, 
all  of  it  being  digested,  and  that  the 
quality  of  the  flesh  will  be  very  materi- 
ally improved. 


CHAPTER  XVm. 

ECONOMY   OF   HEAT. 

PERHAPS  few  of  our  readers  are  aware 
of  the  extraordinary  wastefulness  of  our 
usual  processes  for  obtaining  artificial 
heat ;  at  the  most  moderate  computation, 
seven-eighths  of  the  warmth  produced 
by  an  open  fire,  pass  up  the  chimney, 
and  are  entirely  useless ;  and  according 
to  other  estimates,  which  we  regard  as 
being  nearer  the  truth,  fourteen  parts  out 
of  every  fifteen  are  uselessly  wasted. 
It  may  be  asked  what  are  the  defects  of 
a  common  fireplace  that  render  it  so 
wasteful,  and  in  what  way  is  the  heat 
carried  off?  In  reply  it  may  be  stated, 
that  one  half  the  heat  produced  passes 
away  with  the  smoke  ajnd  heated  air 
arising  from  the  fire,  a  quarter  is  carried 
up  by  the  draught  of  cold  air  from  the 
room,  which,  flowing  around  the  fire  and 
between  it  and  the  mantel-piece,  rises 
with  the  smoke.  Again,  the  soot  which 
passes  away  is  unburned  fuel,  and  is 
therefore  useless ;  and  a  large  portion  of 


ECONOMY   OF   HEAT. 


85 


heat  is  thrown  downwards  upon  the  ash- 
es and  is  wasted ;  while  the  iron  of 
which  the  ranges  are  generally  made, 
conveys  away  a  considerable  quantity. 
On  the  continent  of  Europe  t;he  produc- 
tion of  heat  is  more  economically  man- 
aged— stoves  of  very  admirable  construc- 
tion being  constantly  had  recourse  to, 
both  for  the  purpose  of  producing  warmth 
and  for  cookery.  It  is  to  the  latter  ap- 
plication of  heat  that  we  must  mainly 
confine  ourselves,  having  been  at  some 
considerable  pains  in  examining  the 
various  stoves  and  ranges  now  to  be  ob- 
tained. 

The  cooking-stove  common  in  Europe, 
consists  of  an  enclosed  fire-pan,  with  a 
grating  below  and  a  lid  at  the  top  for  the 
supply  of  fuel ;  this  is  enclosed  in  an 
oven,  supported  on  the  floor  of  the  room 
by  feet,  and  which  is  heated  by  the 
warmth  thrown  out  by  the  sides  of  the 
fire-pan,  and  also  by  a  flue  spreading  over 
the  top,  which  is  thus  heated;  while  the 
upper  surface  of  the  flue  forms  a  hot 
plate,  on  which  many  saucepans,  &c.,  can 
be  kept  boiling,  and  any  vessel  can  also 
be  placed  over  the  fire  by  the  removal  ol 
the  lid.  As  the  draught  is  under  perfed 
control,  the  fuel  is  slowly  consumed,  anc 
the  stove  affords  means  of  baking,  boiling, 
frying,  and  stewing,  at  a  very  small  ex- 
pense. 

Those  of  our  readers  who  visited  Prince 
Albert's  Model  Cottages  opposite  the  Ex 
hibition  in  London,  may  have  noticed  a 
stove  looking  very  much  like  a  long  ob- 
long box,  standing  on  four  legs,  having 
two  doors  in  the  front,  one  opening  intc 
a  large  sized  oven,  the  other  disclosing 
the  fire-grate,  which  was  fed  by  the  re 
moval  of  a  lid  at  the  top ;— the  draugh 
from  the  fire  passed  over  the  oven,  heat 
ing  it,  and  the  hot  plate  above.    Thi 
stove  combines  all  the  advantages  of  th 
continental  cooking- stove,  with  the  cheer 
ful  appearance  of  an  open  fire;  at  th 
same  time,  by  closing  up  the  fire-plac 
6 


oor,  it  is  converted  into  a  close  stovei 
with  an  excessively  small  consumption 
f  fuel.     It  bakes  admirably,  either  large 
oints,  or  bread,  at  the  same  time  it  boils 
saucepan  and  steamer  over  the  fire-hole, 
nd  also  four  large,  or  six  smaller  sauce- 
ans  on  the  top  of  the  hot  plate.    It  fries 
well,  and  broilw  before  the  fire,  and  this 
with  less  than  one  half  the  fuel  that  was 
mployed  to  do  a  portion  of  the  work  in 
he  range.    The  Bain  Marie,  which  is  so 
xcellentameans  of  keeping  soups,  gravies, 
auces,  &c.,  hot  without  burning  or  dry- 
ng  them  up,  is  readily  used  with  it ;  and 
he  saute  pan.  or  deep  frying-pan,  which 
s  employed  as  a  preliminary  operation  in 
most  French  made  dishes,  is  conveniently 
used ;  this  contrivance  derives  its  name 
rom  the  verb  sauter,  to  jump — the  meat 
3eing  rapidly  turned  over  and  browned 
previous  to  stewing. 

An  apparatus  may  be  connected  with 
this  or  any  other  stove  by  which  many  of 
the  articles  for  the  table  or  sick-room 
may  be  kept  fresh  and  warm.  The  fol- 
lowing cut  represents  a  Patent  Adjusta- 
ble Shelf  for  this  purpose,  manufactured 
by  Gorton  Brothers,  New  London,  Conn. 


Stove  Pipe  Shelf. 

Those  who  object  to  a  stove,  preferring 
a  range,  even  at  a  greater  sacrifice  of 
economy,  should  still  be  somewhat  guidec 
by  correct  principles  in  their  selection; 


86 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


a  range  surrounded  by  iron  is  an  absurdi- 
ty, as  the  metal  conducts  away  the  heat 
rapidly ;  it  should  be  backed  and  lined 
with  fire-brick,  or  Welsh  lumps,  which 
throw  out  the  heat  with  great  power. 
In  an  open  fire-place,  the  active  combus- 
tion is  wanted  in  front  for  roasting,  and 
there  only  should  air  enter  the  fire ;  in 
most  ranges  the  air  enters  below,  causing 
the  greatest  heat  to  be  thrown  upon  the 
ashes.  It  may  be  thought  that  closing 
up  the  bottom  would  produce  the  same 
effect  as  allowing  it  to  be  choked  up  with 
ashes  in  a  common  grate,  deadening  the 
fire ;  this  is  not  the  case  with  a  properly 
constructed  range.  Backed  with  a  slant- 
ing back  of  fire  clay,  the  ashes  can  be  read- 
ily removed  at  the  bottom,  and  all  the 
draught  being  in  front,  there  is  a  bright 
fire  at  the  place  where  it  is  required. 

In  situations  where  gas  is  to  be  ob- 
tained, it  forms  a  ready,  and  for  some 
purposes,  very  economical  means  of  ob- 
taining heat  ;  its  economy  does  not  arise 
from  its  cheapness  com- 
pared with  other  means, 
but  from  the  fact  that  it 
need  not  be  lighted  till 
the  instant  it  is  required, 
and  can  be  as  quickly  ex- 
tinguished when  it  has 
done  its  required  duty; 
Fig.  2.  for  heating  any  vessels 
containing  liquids,  especially  if  the  heat 
is  required  to  be  only  of  short  continu- 
ance, gas  will  be  found  extremely  advan- 
tageous. A  ring  burner,  constructed  as 
shown  in  Fig.  2,  less  than  three  inches 
in  diameter,  will  quickly  boil  a  gallon  of 
water  in  a  metallic  vessel;  burners  of 
this  description  are  usually  used  in  the 
laboratory,  surrounded  by  a  case  made 
of  sheet  iron  or  tinned  plate,  as  in  Fig.  3  ; 
this  serves  to  support  the  vessel  to  be 
heated,  to  steady  the  jets  of  flame,  and  to 
conduct  every  portion  of  hot  air  against 
the  bottom  ;  the  door  also  gives  a  ready 
access  to  the  burner  for  the  purposes  of 
jghting  the  gas. 


For  the  domestic  use  of  gas  in  heating 
we  believe  there  is  no  contrivance  so  use- 
ful as  the  following: — A  circular  hole, 
from  two  to  four  or  more  inches  in  diame- 
ter, is  cut  in  the  dresser,  through  which 
is  passed  a  sheet-iron  tube,  supported  by 
three  little  elbows ;  this  tube  projects  a 
few  inches  above  the  table,  and  about  a 
foot  and  a  half  below ;  its  lower  end  is 
open,  and  into  it  projects  a  gas-pipe,  fur- 
nished with  a  stop -cock ;  the  upper  ex- 
tremity is  covered  with  a  sheet  of  wire 
gauze,  similar  to  that  used  for  blinds,  on 
which,  as  shown  in  Fig.  4,  may  be  placed 
some  pieces  of  pumice-stone,  surrounded 


Fig.  8. 

and  kept  together  by  a  broad  ring ; — nei- 
ther the  pumice-stone  nor  the  ring,  how- 
ever, are  essential  parts  of  the  contriv- 
ance. The  action  of  this  arrangement  is 
as  follows  : — When  the  gas  is  turned  on 


Fig.  4 

it  escapes  from  the  pipe,  rising  through 
the  tube,  and  mixing  with  the  air  contain- 
ed within  it ;  this  mixture  then  escapes 
through  the  wire  gauze,  and  may  be 
lighted  on  its  upper  side,  without  pass- 


ECONOMY   OF   HEAT. 


8T 


ing  through  it  to  the  gas  below;  the 
flame  should  be  perfectly  free  from 
smoke,  which  indicates  too  much  gas — 
should  be  pale,  colorless,  and  not  soil  any 
bright  metal  placed  in  it ;  if  the  flame  is 
in  the  slightest  degree  yellow  it  will  do 
this,  and  then  the  gas  should  be  partly 
turned  off— on  the  contrary,  if  there  is 
not  enough  gas,  the  flame  will  be  extin- 
guished. When  lighted,  the  pumice  be- 
comes red-hot,  and  throws  out  a  great 
heak;  when  used  in  boiling,  the  vessel 
should  be  supported  a  short  distance 
over  the  flame  by  a  trivet ;  if  it  is  made 
to  rest  on  the  top  of  the  ring,  and  is  suf- 
ficiently large  to  close  it  entirely,  the 
current  is  stopped  and  the  flame  extin- 
guished, whilst  the  unburned  gas  still 
escapes  below.  This  contrivance  is  most 
useful ;  it  is  lighted  in  an  instant,  is  per- 
fectly free  from  smoke,  no  unburned  gas 
escapes,  it  throws  out  great  heat,  and 
may  be  employed  to  heat  bright  tools 
with  much  more  convenience  than  a  char- 
coal fire.  The  objections  to  its  use  are, 
that  in  burning  it  produces,  as  all  gas 
does,  a  quantity  of  carbonic  acid  gas,  de- 
teriorating the  air,  and  that  the  flame  can- 
not be  very  much  enlarged  or  diminished, 
so  that  if  fires  of  different  power  are  re- 
quired, two  or  more  of  the  contrivances 
must  be  put  in  order.  Otherwise,  the 
instantaneous  action,  small  cost,  great 
heating  power,  and  cleanliness  of  the 
plan,  strongly  recommend  it.  In  sum- 
mer weather,  in  many  small  families,  it 
can  be  made  to  dispense  altogether  with 
the  use  of  a  fire.  By  a  little  variation, 
the  whole  contrivance  may  be  made  to 
stand  on  the  table,  like  Fig.  2 ;  in  this 
and  other  cases,  vulcanized  India-rubber 
will  be  found  to  form  by  far  the  best 
kind  of  flexible  tube,  being  quite  imper- 
vious, very  durable,  and  excessively  pli- 
ant. Those  who  wish  to  try  the  experi- 
ment of  heating  on  this  plan,  may  readily 
do  so  by  covering  the  top  of  the  glass 


chimney  of  any  common  burner  with  a 
piece  of  wire  gauze,  folding  it  over  the 
sides ;  the  gas  may  then  be  turned  on, 
and  lighted  above  the  gauze,  after  it  has 
mingled  with  the  air  in  the  chimney :  a 
small  burner,  however,  does  not  afford 
sufficient  gas  for  the  purpose,  and  there 
is  consequently  too  much  air,  and  the 
flame  is  weak  and  liable  to  go  out. 

We  cannot  conclude  this  chapter  with- 
out entering  our  most  earnest  protest 
against  all  those  injurious  contrivances 
for  burning  charcoal  without  a  flue.  The 
use  of  charcoal-braziers  in  a  large  kitchen 
is  not  to  be  recommended,  but  a  char- 
coal stove  in  a  dwelling-room  is  most  ob- 
jectionable. Charcoal,  in  burning,  pro- 
duces carbonic  acid  gas,  an  invisible  and 
therefore  insidious  poison,  which  is  so 
deadly  in  its  effects,  that  if  the  air  of  a 
room  contains  but  one-tenth  of  its  bulk, 
the  breathing  of  it  for  any  time  is  fatal. 
Every  pound  of  charcoal,  in  burning,  pro- 
duces more  than  three  pounds  and  a  half 
of  this  deadly  gas. 

In  Paris,  in  the  years  1834  and  1835, 
there  were  360  cases  resulting  from  the 
fumes  of  charcoal,  of  which  more  than 
260  were  fatal.  In  order  to  test  the 
effects  of  these  stoves,  Mr.  Coathupe,  of 
Wraxall,  shut  himself  up  in  a  close  room 
containing  eighty  cubic  yards  of  air,  with 
one  of  them  in  action.  In  four  hours  he 
was  seized  with  giddiness,  which,  in  an 
hour's  time,  became  most  intense ;  he 
then  had  the  desire  to  vomit,  but  not  the 
power;  this  was  followed  by  an  utter 
loss  of  strength,  throbbing  at  the  tem- 
ples, and  agonizing  headache,  but  no 
sense  of  suffocation  ;  finding  that  the  ex- 
periment was  becoming  dangerous,  he 
essayed  to  open  the  window,  but  had  the 
greatest  difiiculty  in  so  doing ;  and  when 
his  wife  came  in !  o  the  room,  he  was  found 
in  a  speechless  state,  in  which  he  re- 
mained for  some  time. 

In  a  fatal  case,  which  happened  in  St. 


88 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


John's  Wood,  where  two  girls  were 
killed  by  the  use  of  these  stoves,  it  was 
found,  that  the  quantity  of  carbonic  acid 
produced  was  capable  of  rendering  poi- 
sonous the  air  of  a  room  ten  times  the 
size  of  -the  one  in  which  it  was  used. 
Men  who,  knowing  the  poisonous  effects 
of  these  stoves,  still  sell  them,  recom- 
mending them  as  wholesome,  with  the 
deliberate  assertion  that  their  prepared 
fuel,  which  is  merely  charcoal  disguised, 
is  not  deleterious,  evince  a  much  more 
•  lively  interest  in  the  state  of  their  own 
pockets,  than  in  the  lives  of  their  cus- 
tomers. 

Let  it  not  be  imagined  that  the  case  of 
Mr.  Coathupe  is  but  a  solitary  one ;  the 
action  of  burning  charcoal  is  of  the  same 
deleterious  nature  on  all  persons.  In 
January  1836,  seventy  people  suffered 
the  same  symptoms,  though  in  a  milder 
degree,  in  the  church  at  Downham,  hi 
Norfolk,  England,  where  two  of  these 
dangerous  contrivances  had  been  intro- 
duced: and  in  the  Annales  cPHygeine, 
torn,  xi.,  will  be  found  an  account  of  the 
suicides  hi  the  department  of  the  Seine 
in  ten  years ;  these  were  4595  in  num- 
ber, of  whict  1426  deaths  were  produced 
by  burning  charcoal.  We  would  again 
recommend  our  readers  undejr  no  circum- 
stances, however  much  they  may  be  re- 
commended by  false  assertions,  to  admit 
stoves  without  flues  into  their  houses. 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

CLEANING   AND   DISINFECTING. 

WE  have  elsewhere  given  directions  as 
to  the  best  mode  of  cleaning  various  arti- 
cles, such  as  bottles,  glass,  &c.  What 
remains,  therefore,  under  this  head,  is  to 
furnish  hints  for  cleaning  miscellaneous 
articles,  which  have  not  been  included 


under  previous  accounts ;  and  the  very 
important  process  of  disinfecting,  which 
may  be  regarded  as  a  medical  cleaning, 
fulls,  naturally,  into  the  same  chapter. 
As  the  substances  to  be  submitted  to  the 
process  of  cleaning  vary  greatly  from  one 
another,  we  shall  find  it  more  convenient 
to  throw  our  remarks  into  the  form  of 
miscellaneous  hints,  than  to  arrange  them 
in  a  chapter  for 'consecutive  reading. 

Iron-work  which  is  exposed  to  wet, 
rusts  rapidly ;  it  is  usually  preserved 
from  the  action  of  moisture  either  by 
covering  it  with  two  pr  three  coatings  of 
paint,  as  is  customary  in  large  out-door 
works,  or  by  brushing  it  over  with  a 
varnish  termed  Brunswick  black;  this 
plan  is  usually  followed  in  the  case  of 
smaller  substances  used  iu-doors.  A 
very  superior  plan  for  protecting  small 
iron  goods  from  the  injurious  action  of 
wet,  is  to  heat  them  a  little  below  red- 
ness, and  whilst  hot  to  brush  them  over 
with  common  linseed  oil,  which  is  de- 
composed by  the  heat,  and  forms  a  thin, 
very  firm  coating  of  varnish,  which  is 
quite  impervious  to  water,  and  unlike 
paint  or  Japan-black,  does  not  chip  off. 
It  is  evident  that  this  plan  can  only  be 
adopted  in  few  cases,  but  where  it  is 
available  we  very  strongly  recommend  it. 

Floor  Hoarding  and  other  wood  work 
is  exceedingly  apt  to  be  stained  by  vari- 
ous substances  spilt  upon  it.  Ink  stains, 
for  instance,  are  extremely  obstinate; 
they  withstand  washing  many  times,  and 
at  last  turn  to  a  rusty  iron  color,  from 
the  application  of  the  alkali  of  the  soap. 
But  the  black  stain  of  recent  ink  and  the 
rusty  iron-mould  may  be  removed  by  the 
action  of  oxalic  or  muriatic  acid.  As 
wood  is  not  likely  to  be  injured  like  cloth 
or  linen,  the  latter  may  be  used,  being 
the  cheaper,  and  it  should  be  diluted 
with  two  or  three  times  its  bulk  of 
water,  and  applied  until  the  stain  is  re- 
moved. Grease  which  has  been  trodden 


CLEANING   AND   DISINFECTING. 


89 


in,  or  has  remained  a  long  time,  should 
be  first  softened  by  the  application  of  a 
little  turpentine,  and  then  it  will  be 
found  to  yield  much  more  readily  than  it 
otherwise  would  to  the  action  of  fuller's 
earth  and  pearlash  or  soda.  Fruit  stains 
are  quickly  removed  by  the  action  of  a 
little  chloride  of  lime,  mixed  with  water, 
and  applied  until  the  desired  effect  is 
produced.  It  should  be  borne  in  mind 
that  all  vegetable  colors  are  utterly  de- 
stroyed beyond  any  restoration,  by  the 
energetic  action  of  this  agent. 

Paint,  when  soiled,  is  readily  cleaned 
by  soap  and  water ;  soda  and  pearlash 
are  frequently  employed,  but  they  act  by 
removing  a  portion  of  the  paint,  and  if 
not  thoroughly  washed  off  with  clean 
water  afterwards,  they  will  be  found  to 
soften  the  whole.  Caustic  alkalies,  such 
as  the  solution  for  washing  on  the  new 
plan,  will  rapidly  dissolve  paint,  and  are 
therefore  inapplicable  for  cleaning;  they 
may,  however,  be  usefully  employed  in 
removing  paint  from  wood,  where  such 
an  operation  is  requisite. 

±  late  may  be  cleaned  by  rouge,  or  if 
this  is  not  readily  obtained,  by  washed 
whiting ;  this  is  readily  made  by  stirring 
some  whiting  up  with  water,  then  allow- 
ing the  larger  particles  and  the  grit  to 
subside,  and  pouring  off  the  water  charged 
with  the  finer  powder,  which  is  allowed 
to  settle,  and  dried  for  use.  When  plate 
is  very  much  stained,  it  may  be  cleaned 
with  putty  powder,  but  this  preparation 
would  soon  wear  away  the  silver  if  used 
frequently  or  unnecessarily.  It  may  be 
mentioned,  that  this  substance  is  not 
made  from  putty,  as  its  name  might  seem 
to  imply,  but  is  a  rust  or  oxide  of  tin, 
obtained  by  heating  the  metal. 

Japanned  Goods,  such  as  tea-boards, 
should  not  have  boiling  water  poured 
upon  them,  but  should  be  washed  with 
warm  water,  and  polished  with  a  piece 
of  wash-leather  and  fine  flour. 

Knives. — The  common  wooden  knife- 


board  wears  out  the  knives  very  rapidly, 
it  is  therefore  much  better  to  employ  a 
piece  of  buff-leather  to  cover  the  board  ; 
for  very  superior  cutlery  emery  powder 
should  be  used  instead  of  Bath-brick. 
Whatever,  the  material  of  the  board,  it 
will  be  rapidly  spoiled  by  cleaning  the 
backs  of  knives  upon  the  edge  of  the 
board ;  to  prevent  this  evil,  a  small  piece 
of  leather  should  be  fixed  on  one  end  to 
clean  the  backs  upon. 

Steel  Forks  are  readily  cleaned  by 
having  a  pot  of  damp  moss  or  hay,  with 
some  sand  intermixed,  into  which  they 
may  be  repeatedly  thrust.  If  knives  or 
forks  get  an  unpleasant  taint  which  can- 
not be  removed  readily,  they  may  be 
plunged  into  the  mould  of  the  garden, 
which  has  much  absorptive  power,  and 
rapidly  removes  such  odors. 

Bedsteads  may  be  freed  from  vermin 
by  brushing  them  over  in  the  cracks  with 
a  mixture  formed  of  one  ounce  of  corro- 
sive  sublimate,  dissolved  in  half  a  pint  of 
oil  of  turpentine,  and  the  same  quantity 
of  any  spirit,  such  as  strong  gin  or 
whiskey ;  this  effectually  prevents  their 
harboring.  But  when  first  applied,  it 
has  a  disagreeable  odor  from  the  tur- 
pentine, and  great  care  must  be  taken 
with  it,  as  it  is  excessively  poisonous.  It 
has  been  found  that  the  presence  of  the 
odor  of  creosote  has  effectually  driven 
away  these  enemies  to  our  nocturnal 
peace.  On  the  whole,  constant  and  un- 
remitting cleanliness,  and  the  employ- 
ment of  iron  bedsteads,  which  are  now 
manufactured  of  the  most  elegant  forms, 
are  the  best  means  of  getting  rid  of  these 
pests. 

We  pass  on  to  the  important  opera- 
tions of  disinfecting.  Various  means 
have  been  proposed  of  lessening  or  utter* 
ly  destroying  the  infectious  emanations 
that  proceed  from  persons  in  certain 
diseases,  and  which  frequently  have  the 
power  of  attaching  themselves  with  great- 
er or  less  tenacity  to  articles  of  wearing 


90 


THE   PKACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


apparel,  furniture,  &c.  Generally  speak- 
ing, a  good  system  of  ventilation  is  suffi- 
cient to  prevent  infection.  When  rooms 
are  properly  aired,  a  disease  can  seldom 
be  caught  more  than  a  few  feet  from  the 
patient ;  or  even  in  the  case,  of  those 
most  infectious  disorders,  scarlet-fever, 
and  small-pox,  it  seldom  spreads  more 
than  a  few  yards;  but  if  the  air  of  a 
room  is  confined,  the  infection  is  concen- 
trated, and  becomes  much  more  certain  in 
its  action. 

Downy  and  fibrous  materials  readily 
receive  infection  ;  it  may,  in  fact,  in  many 
instances,  be  folded  up  in  them,  and  so 
retained  almost  any  length  of  time ;  but  if 
they  are  thoroughly  exposed  to  a  free  cur- 
rent of  air,  it  is  dissipated  in  a  short  time. 
It  should  be  mentioned,  that  infectious  dis- 
eases are  more  readily  received  in  certain 
states  of  the  body ;  thus,,  fear,  timidity, 
mental  anxiety,  and  such  states  of  mind, 
by  lowering  the  general  tone  of  the  sys- 
tem, render  it  much  more  liable  to  con- 
tract infectious  or  contagious  diseases; 
a  state  of  exhaustion  from  bodily  fatigue, 
or  from  hunger,  has  the  same  tendency. 
Infection  is  also  more  readily  received 
through  the  lungs  than  through  the  skin  ; 
therefore,  it  is  important  never  to  re- 
ceive the  breath  of  a  patient,  and,  as  a 
sailor  would  say,  always  to  keep  to  the 
windward  side  of  him.  Amongst  the  do- 
mestic disinfectants,  vinegar  has  a  great 
reputation,  but  undeservedly  so  ;  its  only 
action  is  to  overpower,  by  its  odor,  the 
smell  of  a  sick  room — as  a  destroyer  of 
the  peculiar  influences  that  engender  dis- 
ease, it  has  no  power.  Burning  substances 
act  hi  the  same  manner.  Burnt  brown 
paper,  fumigating  pastiles,  tobacco,  only 
act  by  substituting  one  smell  for  another. 
The  ridiculous  practice  of  carrying  about 
a  piece  of  camphor  is  very  common,  and 
is  perfectly  inefficacious.  If  it  has  any 
action  at  all,  it  must  be  an  injurious  one ; 
for  camphor  is  a  stimulant,  and  its  con- 
stant inhalation  must  tend  to  lower  the 


system,  and  so  produce  the  very  evil  it  is 
supposed  to  remedy. 

The  best  means  of  preventing  infection^ 
are  ventilation  and  cleanliness  in  every 
particular.  The  best  means  of  destroy- 
ing it  are  those  powerful  chemical  agents 
which  have  the  power  of  uniting  with 
the  hydrogen  which  is  supposed  to  form 
part  of  the  infectious  substances. 

The  most  powerful,  easily  controlled, 
and  in  every  sense  the  best  disinfectant, 
is  chlorine  gas.  This  agent  at  once  des- 
troys every  trace  of  infection  in  all  sub- 
stances submitted  to  its  action.  Its  for- 
mation is  perfectly  under  control,  and 
goes  on  in  a  gentle  manner  for  da}Ts  to- 
gether, without  requiring  care  or  attend- 
ance. We  consider  that  the  slow  libera- 
tion of  chlorine  is  far  superior  to  the 
employment  of  chloride  of  lime,  which 
gives  forth  the  gas  in  a  modified  form. 

In  one  case  of  a  school  where  scarlet- 
fever  had  returned  after  several  attempts 
at  purification,  chlorine  effected  the  com- 
plete removal  of  every  trace  of  the  dis- 
ease. Various  modes  of  liberating  chlo- 
rine are  known  to  chemists ;  but,  for  such 
purposes  as  the  present,  where  a  slow, 
uniform,  and  constant  action  is  required, 
there  are  none  equal  to  the  following 
plan : — One  pound  of  common  table-salt 
is  to  be  intimately  mixed  by  stirring 
with  an  equal  weight  of  a  substance  call- 
ed manganese,  which  may  be  readily  ob- 
tained from  any  good  chemist.  Small 
portions  of  this  mixture  should  be  placed 
in  shallow  pans  (the  saucers  of  common 
flower-pots  answer  the  purpose) ;  and 
upon  them  should  be  poured  a  mixture 
of  oil  of  vitriol  (sulphuric  acid)  and  wa- 
ter, the  quantity  required  for  the  above 
weights,  viz.,  for  one  pound  of  each  in- 
gredient, being  two  pounds  of  oil  of  vitriol 
and  one  of  water,  both  by  weight.  These 
should  have  been  previously  mixed  in  a 
wooden  vessel,  being  stirred  by  a  wooden 
lath,  and  allowed  to  become  cool  before 
being  poured  on  the  salt  and  manganese. 


DISINFECTING. FERMENTING. 


91 


as*£he  mixing  of  the  acid  and  water  gen- 
erates great  heat.  Too  much  care  can- 
not be  taken  with  the  acid,  as  it  is  ex- 
cessively corrosive  in  its  nature,  and 
destroys  most  substances  with  which  it 
comes  in  contact.  When  these  materials 
are  all  mixed,  chlorine  is  slowly  evolved 
for  a  period  of  three  or  four  days,  and  in 
so  gentle  a  manner,  that  not  the  slightest 
irritating  or  unpleasant  effect  is  produced. 
If  it  is  wished  to  cause  the  more  rapid 
production  of  gas,  the  saucer  may  be 
placed  over  a  basin  of  boiling  water,  or 
upon  a  hot  brick ;  but  the  slow  genera- 
tion for  a  considerable  length  of  time  is 
what  should  be  more  especially  aimed  at. 
It  is  needless  to  say,  that  all  substances 
supposed  to  have  been  contaminated, 
should  be  spread  out  so  as  to  receive  the 
influence  of  the  gas  ;  the  bed-linen,  and 
all  woollen  garments,  being  exposed  by 
being  spread  out  on  chairs,  lines,  &c. ; 
the  drawers  and  cupboards  opened ;  and 
while  the  disinfecting  is  in  actual  opera- 
tion, the  windows  and  doors  should  be 
kept  shut,  to  prevent  the  dissipation  of 
the  chlorine.  It  is  found  that  two  ounces 
of  manganese,  with  a  proportionate  quan- 
tity of  the  other  materials,  is  sufficient  for 
a  room  twenty  feet  wide,  forty  feet  long, 
and  twelve  feet  high,  which  contains  20 
X40xl2=9600  cubic  feet. 

It  may  be  mentioned,  that  breathing 
chlorine  in  this  highly  diluted  state,  is 
not  injurious  to  the  general  health ;  al- 
though, in  a  concentrated  form,  or  unless 
very  much  diluted  with  air,  it  is  irrita- 
ting in  the  highest  degree.  In  the  very 
dilute  state,  it  is  occasionally  prescribed 
for  the  inhalation  of  consumptive  patients. 

For  the  satisfaction  of  those  who  rely 
on  the  authority  of  a  great  name,  it  may 
be  stated,  that  chlorine  used  in  the  man- 
ner here  recommended,  was  employed  by 
one  of  the  most  illustrious  of  English 
chemists,  in  the  case  of  the  Penitentiary, 
when  a  violent  and  fatal  disease  broke 


out  there,  and  with  complete  success. 
The  operator  in  this  case  was  FARADAY. 
It  may  occasionally  be  found  more 
convenient  to  use  another  mixture  for 
the  liberation  of  chlorine  gas,  in  which 

case  the  following  may  be  employed : 

One  part  of  manganese  is  to  be  drenched 
with  four  parts  by  weight  of  muriatic 
acid  (spirits  of  salts),  mixed  with  one 
part  of  water.  The  gas  is  evolved  slowly 
in  the  cold,  and  rapidly  if  assisted  by  a 
gentle  heat.  This  process  is  rather  more 
expensive,  and  possesses  no  advantage 
over  the  one  previously  described. 


CHAPTER  XX. 

FERMENTING   AND  DISTILLING. 

IN  ordinary  language,  the  term  fermen- 
tation is  employed  to  signify  the  peculiar 
changes  which  take  place  when  a  solu- 
tion of  sugar,  or  any  vegetable  substance 
containing  saccharine  matter,  is  converted 
into  spirit — this,  however,  is  only  one  of 
many  of  such  kinds  of  action,  which  are 
well  known  to  chemists.  The  most  im- 
portant fermentations  are  the  saccharine 
fermentation,  when  sugar  is  formed  by  a 
change  taking  place  in  starch ;  the  vinous, 
when  spirit  is  formed  from  sugar;  and 
the  acetous,  in  which  vinegar  or  acetic 
acid  is  formed  from  spirit. 

The  saccharine  fermentation,  or  the 
formation  of  sugar  from  starch,  is  inter- 
esting, though  it  does  not  influence  such 
operations  as  are  included  in  our  Domes- 
tic Manipulations.  If  starch  is  dissolved 
in  water,  a  little  wheat  flour  added,  and 
the  whole  exposed  to  a  moderately  warm 
temperature,  it  will  be  found  that  after  a 
few  days,  varying  in  number  with  the 
degree  of  warmth,  the  starch  has  disap- 
peared, and  the  liquid  has  become  sweet 
from  the  formation  of  sugar.  The  same 
change  takes  place  with  much  greater 


92 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


rapidity  if  starch  is  boiled  with  a  solution 
of  malt,  which  contains  an  active  princi 
pie  called  diastase,  capable  of  bringing 
about  this  fermentation  in  a  short  time 
The  formation  of  sugar  from  starch  is  an 
operation  which  constantly  occurs  in  al 
growing  seeds,  the  effect  being  to  change 
'  an  insoluble  substance,  such  as  starch 
into  one  which  is  capable  of  being  dis- 
solved in  the  juices  of  the  young  plant 
and  nourishing  it  during  the  early  stages  of 
its  growth.  In  the  operation  of  malting 
barley,  the  change  is  induced  artificially, 
for  the  purpose  of  producing  sugar  in  the 
malt,  which  is  afterwards  made  to 
dergo  the  second  kind  of  fermentation, 
namely,  the  vinous,  or  that  in  which 
spirit  is  produced. 

When  sugar,  either  that  which  natu- 
rally exists,  in  many  plants,  or  as  formed 
from  starch  as  just  mentioned,  is  dis- 
solved in  water,  so  as  to  form  a  moder- 
ately weak  solution,  and  the  *  whole  ex- 
posed to  a  degree  of  warmth  varying 
from  seventy  to  eighty  degrees,  it  rapidly 
undergoes  a  remarkable  change,  provided 
a  small  quantity  of  any  vegetable  fer- 
ment is  present — such  as  yeast,  or  the 
juice  of  the  grape,  or  of  many  other  fruits. 
The  sugar  wholly  disappears,  and  is  re- 
solved into  two  substances — one  a  gas, 
termed  carbonic  acid,"  which  escapes,  giv- 
ing rise  to  a  slow  effervescence ;  and  the 
other,  a  portion  of  spirit,  which  remains 
in  the  liquid.  This  kind  of  fermentation 
is  much  more  difficult  to  prevent  than  to 
establish ;  in  making  syrups,  it  is  found 
especially  annoying ;  for  if  the  quantity 
of  sugar  used  is  too  small,  the  syrup  is 
certain  to  ferment  and  spoil ;  and  if  too 
much  is  "added,  it  crystallizes  cut  hi  the 
solid  form ;  as  a  general  rule,  however, 
it  is  found  that  two  parts,  by  weight,  of 
sugar,  to  one  part,  by  weight,  of  water, 
or  other  liquid — such  as  the  juice  of 
fruits,  made  into  a  syrup  by  boiling  for  a 
short  time — neither  ferments  nor  crys- 
tallizes. 


In  the  act  of  fermentation  the  spirit 
produced  by  the  process  last  described  is 
changed  into  acetic  acid,  or  vinegar. 
Here,  also,  the  presence  of  some  sub- 
stance capable  of  commencing  the  fer- 
mentation is  requisite,  for  pure  spirit  and 
water  will  not  undergo  the  change.  The 
ferment  employed  may  be  the  vinegar- 
plant — or  it  may  be  a  little  vinegar, 
which  may  have  been  previously  formed. 

For  the  rapid  progress  of  the  acetous 
fermentation,  a  high  temperature  is  re- 
quisite— even  as  great  as  about  eighty- 
six  degrees — and  free  exposure  to  air  is 
essential.  The  best  vinegar  is  that  made 
from  weak  wine,  at  Orleans;  the  plan 
followed  is  to  introduce  a  portion  of  vine- 
gar into  the  vessels,  adding  the  wine  at 
intervals,  and  never  quite  emptying  them. 
In  this  country,  a  weak  beer  is  brewed, 
without  hops,  for  the  purpose  of  making 
vinegar,  and  a  small  quantity  of  dilute 
oil  of  vitriol  is  added,  after  the  vinegar  is 
formed,  to  destroy  the  mouldiness  that 
is  otherwise  apt  to  be  present.  Vinegar 
may  be  formed  from  any  weak  spirituous 
iquid  \  but  it  should  be  borne  in  mind 
that  two  circumstances  are  essential  to 
success — namely,  a  high  summer  tem- 
Derature,  either  natural  or  artificial,  and 
ree  exposure  to  air. 

The  process  of  distillation  is  one  which 
s  used  for  separating  liquids  from  each 
other  that  boil  at  different  degrees  of 
heat.  In  domestic  economy,  it  is  most 
requently  employed  to  obtain  spirit, 
more  or  less  flavored,  or  scented,  with 
:ome  volatile  essential  oil.  The  appara- 
,us  commonly  used  is  the  Still,  for  boil- 
ng  the  liquid  to  generate  the  vapor,  and 
a  long  spirally  twisted  tube  termed  the 
worm,  which  is  placed  in  a  tub  of  cold 
vater,  and  through  which  the  steam 
)asses  to  be  condensed.  The  worm  is 
he  most  objectionable  part  of  the  mod- 
rn  still ;  its  great  evil  is  the  difficulty 
with  which  it  is  cleaned,  so  as  to  prevent 
ne  strong-flavored  substance  spoiling 


DISTILLATION. 


93 


those  which  are  distilled  afterwards.    I 
the  coils  of  the  worm  are  not  very  nu 
merous,  a  bullet,  with  a  string  attached 
may  be  passed  through  it,  and  a  sponge  or 
small  bottle-brush,  fastened  to  the  string 
may  be  worked  backwards  and  forwards 
but  if  there  are  several  coils,  it  will  be 
found  impossible  to  do  this,  from  the  re- 
sistance caused  by  friction.    In  this  case 
the  only  plan  is  to  close  one  end  of  the 


Fig.  1. 

worm  with  a  cork,  and  fill  it  with  a  solu- 
tion of  caustic  alkali,  allowing  it  to  re- 
main for  some  hours,  and  repeating  the 
application  with  fresh  liquid,  if  it  be  re- 
quired. 

In  Germany,  the  worm  is  being  super- 
seded by  an  excellent  condenser,  which 
is.  so  superior  that  we  are  induced  to 
give  a  sketch  of  it,  hoping  that  it  may 
lead  to  its  adoption  in  this  country.  The 
vapors  from  the  still  pass  into  the  tube 
A  (Fig  1),  by  which  they  are  conducted 
into  B,  a  hollow  globe,  made  to  unscrew 
at  its  centre.  The  vapors,  passing  along 
the  tubes  0.  -are  condensed,  and  the  dis- 
tilled liquid  drops  from  D.  The  pipe  E 
should  convey  a  constant  stream  of  cold 
water  to  the  bottom  of  the  tub,  and  this, 
rising  as  it  is  warmed  by  abstracting  heat 
from  the  tubes  and  globe,  should  escape  by 
F.  All  the  tubes  being  straight,  it  is 
obvious  that  they  can  be  readily  cleaned 
from  their  ends. 

In  the  laboratory,  distilling  is   most 
frequently  performed  with  vessels  term- 


ed retorts,  or  even  from  flasks;  but  as 
these  are  not  very  applicable  to  domes- 
tic purposes,  we  pass  them  over. 

In  cloirestic  practice,  the  still  is  usual- 
ly employed  to"  obtain  son  e  water  or 
spirit  flavored  with  essential  oil,  or  the 
oil  itself,  and  the  process  should  be 
slight'y  modified  so  as  to  suit  each  case. 
The  vegetable  substance  should  not  be 
placed  on  the  bottom  of  the  still  itself,  as 
in  that  case  it  might  become  burnt,  and 
so  give  an  unpleasant  flavor  to  the 
whole;  but  a  bottom  of  wicker-work 
should  be  placed  in  the  still  in  the  first 
instance  for  it  to  rest  upon,  or  a  perfora- 
ted board.  The  substance  to  be  distilled 
should  be  placed  in  the  still,  covered  with 
water,  for  some  hours  before  the  fire  is 
lighted  ;  no  more  water  being  added  than 
ufficient  to  cover  it,  if  the  preparation  of 
oil  is  the  object. 

Herbs,  for  distilling,  should  be  collect- 
ed on  a  dry  day,  and—unless  the  oil  re- 
sides in  the  seeds,  as  in  the  case  of  cara- 
way, anise,  &c.,  or  in  the  flowers,  as  in 
the  rose,  lavender,  &c. — just  before  the 
flowers  have  opened,  as  at  that  period 
there  is  the  greatest  quantity  of  essential 
oil  in  the  plant.  All  plants  cultivated 
for  distillation,  should  be  grown  in  a 
situation  where  they  can  receive  a  full 
amount  of  sun-light,  as  shade  or  darkness 
very  much  tends  to  prevent  the  formation 
of  essential  oil. 

The  liquid  which  comes  out  of  the 
worm,  is  a  mixture  of  water  highly  fla- 
vored with  the  substance,  and  some  un- 
dissolved   oil — this   latter  is  sometimes 
heavier  and  sometimes  lighter 
M  than  water,  either  sinking  or 
[.fj  floating ;  in  the  latter  c"ase  the 
oil  may  be  readily  separated  by 
filling  a  bottle  with  the  mix- 
ture, and  when  the  oil  has  col- 
lected at  the  top.  carrying  it 
1  off  by  a  few  threads  of  cotton 
Fig-  2-    placed  as  in  the  figure  (fig.  2) 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOTJSEKEEPEK. 


taking  care  that  they  are  moistened  with 
oil  before  arranging  them;  the  cotton 
acts  as  a  syphon,  and  removes  the  whole 
of  the  oil.  If  the  object  of  the  operation 
is  to  obtain  the  oil  and  not  the  distilled 
water,  the  latter  should  be  preserved, 
and  used  again  and  again  with  fresh 
herbs,  because  having  in  the  first  opera- 
tion dissolved  as  much  oil  as  it  is  capa- 
ble of  doing,  it  causes  no  loss  in  the  sub- 
sequent distillations. 


CHAPTER  XXI. 

LAYING     OUT    TABLES  AND   FOLDING 

NAPKINS. 

THE  art  of  laying  out  a  table,  whether 
for  breakfast,  luncheon,  dinner,  tea  or 
supper,  consists  in  arranging  the  various 
dishes,  plate,  glass,  &c.,  methodically,  and 
adhering  to  the  rules  we  are  about  to 
make  known. 

Much  trouble,  irregularity,  and  con- 
fusion will  be  avoided  in  a  house  when 
there  is  company,  if  servants  are  instruct- 
ed to  prepare  the  table,  sideboard,  or 
dinner-wagon,  in  a  similar  manner  and 
order  daily. 

All  tables  are  usually  laid  out  accord- 
ing to  the  following  rules,  yet  there  are 
local  peculiarities  which  will  necessarily 
present  themselves,  and  should  be  adopt- 
ed or  rejected,  as  may  appear  proper  to 
the  good  housewife : — 

BREAKFASTS. — The  table  should  be 
covered  with  a  clean  white  cloth;  the 
cups  and  saucers  arranged  at  one  end,  on 
a  tray  if  desirable ;  or  the  coffee-cups 
and  saucers  may  be  arranged  at  the 
right-hand  side  of  one  end  of  the  table, 
and  the  tea-cups  and  saucers  at  the  left : 
the  tea-pot  and  coffee-pot  occupying  the 
space  between  in  front,  and  the  urn  that 
at  the  back.  Some  persons  substitute 


cocoa  or  chocolate  for  coffee,  in  which 
case  they  are  to  be  placed  the  same.  The 
slop-basin  and  milk-pitcher  should  be 
placed  to  the  left ;  and  the  cream,  and 
hot  milk-pitchers,  with  the  sugar  basin, 
to  the  right. 

The  remainder  of  the  table  should  be 
occupied  in  the  centre  by  the  various 
dishes  to  be  partaken  of ;  while  at  the 
sides  must  be  ranged  a  large  plate  for 
meat,  eggs,  &c.,  and  a  small  one  for  toast, 
rolls,  &c.,  with  a  small  knife  and  fork  for 
each  person ;  the  carving  knife  and  fork 
being  placed  point  to  handle ;  the  butter 
and  bread  knives  to  the  right  of  their 
respective  dishes,  which  occupy  the  cen- 
tre part,  and  spoons  in  front  of  the  hot 
dishes  with  gravy.  Salt-cellars  should 
occupy  the  four  corners,  and,  if  required, 
the  cruets  should  be  placed  in  the  centre 
of  the  table. 

Dry  toast  should  never  be  prepared 
longer  than  five  minutes  before  serving, 
as  it  becomes  tough,  and  the  buttered, 
soppy  and  greasy,  if  too  long  prepared. 
Hot  rolls  should  be  brought  to  table 
covered  with  a  napkin. 

Every  dish  should  be  garnished  appro- 
priately, either  with  sippets,  ornamental 
butter,  water-cresses,  parsley,  or  some 
one  of  the  garnishes  we  shall  point  out 
in  a  future  page. 

The  dishes  usually  set  upon  the  table 
are  selected  from  hot,  cold,  and  cured 
meats  ;  hot,  cold,  cured,  and  potted  fish  ; 
game;  poultry,  cold  or  devilled;  fruit, 
ripe,  preserved,  or  candied ;  dressed  and 
undressed  vegetables ;  meat-pies  and 
patties,  cold ;  eggs ;  honey-comb  ;  and 
savory  morsels  —  as  grilled  kidneys, 
aam-toast,  devils,  &c. 

Dejeuners  a  la  fourcJiette  are  laid  the 
same  as  suppers,  except  that  tea  and 
coffee  are  introduced;  but  in  sporting 
circles  not  until  the  solids  are  removed. 

When  laid  for  a  marriage  or  christen- 
ng  breakfast,  a  bride's  or  christening  cake 


LAYING  THE  TABLE. NAPKINS. 


should  occupy  the  centre  instead  of  the 
epergne  or  plateau. 

LUNCHEONS,  OR  KOONINGS. — The  lun- 
cheon is  laid  in  two  ways  ;  one  wajr  is  to 
bring  in  a  butler's  tray  with  let-down 
sides,  on  which  it  is  previously  arranged 
upon  a  tray  cloth,  and  letting  down  the 
sides  and  spreading  the  cloth  upon  the 
dining  table,  to  distribute  the  things  as 
required.  The  other  is  to  lay  the  cloth 
as  for  dinner,  with  the  pickle-stand  and 
cruets  opposite  each  other ;  and,  if  in 
season,  a  small  vase  of  flowers  in  the  cen- 
tre ;  if  not,  a  water-pitcher  and  tumblers, 
which  may  be  placed  on  a  side-table  at 
other  times.  The  sides  of  the  table  are 
occupied  by  the  requisites  for  each  guest, 
viz.,  two  plates,  a  large  and  small  fork 
and  knives,  and  dessert-spoon.  A  folded 
napkin,  and  the  bread  under,  is  placed 
upon  the  plate  of  each  guest. 

Carafes,  with  the  tumblers  belonging 
to  and  placed  over  them,  are  laid  at 
the  four  corners,  with  the  salt-cellars  in 
front  of  them,  between  two  table-spoons 
laid  bowl  to  handle. 

If  French  or  light  wines  are  served, 
they  may  be  placed  in  the  original  bot- 
tles in  ornamental  wine  vases,  between 
the  top  and  bottom  dishes  and  the  vase 
of  flowers,  with  the  corks  drawn  and 
partially  replaced. 

The  dishes  generally  served  for  lun- 
cheons are  the  remains  of  cold  meat 
neatly  trimmed  and  garnished :  cold  game 
hashed  or  plain ;  hashes  of  all  de- 
scriptions ;  curries ;  minced  meats ;  cold 
pies,  savory,  fruit,  or  plain ;  plainly 
cooked  cutlets,  steaks,  and  chops;  ome- 
lettes ;  bacon ;  eggs ;  devils  and  grilled 
bones ;  potatoes ;  sweetmeats  ;  butter ; 
cheese ;  salad  and  pickles.  In  fact  al- 
most anything  does  for  lunch,  whether 
of  fish,  flesh,  fowl,  pastry,  vegetables,  or 
fruit. 

Ale  and  porter  are  generally  served, 
but  occasionally  sherry,  marsalla.  port, 


or  home-made  wines,  are  introduced, 
with  biscuit  and  ripe  fruit. 

A  good  housewife  should  always  have 
something  in  the  house  ready  to  convert 
into  a  neat  little  luncheon,  in  case  a  few 
friends  drop  in,  and  it  is  astonishing 
how  a  really  nice  looking  affair  may  be 
made  out  of  the  remains  of  the  dinner 
served  the  day  before:  some  glass,  a 
sprinkle  of  plate,  a  few  flowers,  some 
good  ale,  or  a  little  wine,  and  above  all, 
a  hearty  welcome. 

NAPKINS. — Dinner  napkins  should  be 
about  twenty-eight  inches  broad,  and 
thirty  inches  long.  They  may  be  folded 
in  a  variety  of  wa}s,  which  impart  a 
style  to  a  table,  without  adding  much  to 
the  expense,  and  may  be  readily  accom- 
plished with  a  little  practice  and  atten- 
tion to  the  following  directions  and  dia- 
grams. 

1.— THE   MITRE. — {Fig.  ].) 

Fold  the  napkin  into  three  parts 
longways,  then  turn  down  the  right-hand 
corner,  and  turn  up  the  left-hand  one.  as 
in  Fig.  2,  A  and  B.  Turn  back  the 
point  A  towards  the  right,  so  that  it 
shall  lie  behind  C  ;  and  B  to  the  left, 
so  as  to  be  behind  D.  Double  the  nap- 
kin back  at  the  line  E,  then  turn  up  F 
from  before  and  G  from  behind,  when 
they  will  appear  as  in  Fig  3.  Bend  the 
corner  H  towards  the  right,  and  tuck  it 
behind  I,  and  turn  back  the  corner  K  to- 
wards the  left,  at  the  dotted  line,  and 
tuck  it  into  a  corresponding  part  at  the 
back.  The  bread  is  placed  under  the 
mitre,  or  in  the  centre  at  the  top. 

2.— THE  EXQUISITE.— (Fig.  4.) 
Fold  the  napkin  into  three  parts  long- 
ways, then  fold  down  two-fifths  of  the 
length  from  each  side,  as  in  Fig.  5,  at  A ; 
roll  up  the  part  B  towards  the  back,  re- 
peat on  the  other  side,  then  turn  up  the 
corner  towards  the  corner  A.  and  it  will 
appear  as  D.  The  centre  part  E  is  now 


96 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


to  be  turned  up  at  the  bottom,  and  down 
at  the  top,  and  the  two  rolls  brought 
under  the  centre  piece,  as  in  Fig.  4.  The 
bread  is  placed  under  the  centre  band,  K, 
Fig.  4. 

3. — THE   COLLEGIAN. — (Fig.  6.) 

Fold  the  napkin  into  three  parts  long- 
ways, then  turn  down  the  two  sides  to- 
wards you.  so  that  they  shall  appear  as 
in  Fig.  7 .;  then  roll  up  the  part  A  under- 
neath until  it  looks  like  B,  Fig.  8.  Now 
take  the  corner  B  and  turn  it  up  towards 
C,  so  that  the  edge  of  the  rolled  part 
shall  be  even  with  the  central  line ;  re- 
peat the  same  on  the  other  side,  and  turn 
the  whole  over,  when  it  will  appear  as 
in  Fig.  6.  The  bread  is  placed  under- 
neath the  part  K. 

4. — THE   CINDERELLA. — (Fig.  9.) 

Fold  the  napkin  into  three  parts  long- 
ways, then  turn  down  the  two  sides  as 
in  Fig.  7  ;  turn  the  napkin  over,  and  roll 
up  the  lower  part  as  in  Fig.  10,  A,  B. 
Now  turn  the  corner  B  upwards  towards 
C,  so  that  it  shall  appear  as  in  D ;  re- 
peat on  the  other  side,  and  then  bring 
the  two  parts  E  together  so  that  they 
shall  bend  at  the  dotted  line  j  and  the 
appearance  will  now  be  as  Fig.  9.  The 
bread  is  placed  under  the  apron  part,  K, 

Fig.  9. 

i  „ 

5. THE    FLIRT. (Fig.  11.) 

Fold  the  napkin  into  three  parts  long- 
ways, then  fold  across  the  breadth,  com- 
mencing at  one  extremity,  and  continu- 
ing to  fold  from  and  to  yourself  in  folds 
about  two  inches  broad,  until  the  whole 
is  done ;  then  place  in  a  tumbler,  and  it 
will  appear  as  in  the  illustration. 

C. — THE   NEAPOLITAN. — (Fig.  12.) 

Fold  the  napkin  into  three  parts  long- 
ways, then  fold  one  of  the  upper  parts 
upon  itself  from  you  ;  turn  over  the  cloth 
with  the  part  having  four  folds  from  you, 


and  fold  down  the  two  sides  so  as  to  ap- 
pear as  in  Fig.  7 ;  then  roll  up  the  part 
A  underneath,  until  it  appears  as  in  the 
dotted  lines  in  Fig.  13,  at  B.  Now  turn 
up  the  corner  B  towards  C,  so  that  the 
edge  of  the  rolled  part  shall  be  even 
with  the  central  line:  repeat  the  same 
upon  the  opposite  side,  and  turn  the 
whole  over,  when  it  will  appear  as  in 
Fig..l2:  the  bread  being  placed  under- 
neath the  part  K,  as  represented  in  the 
illustration. 

7. THE  "  FAVORITE^'  OR  OUR  OWN. 

(Fig.  14.) 

Fold  the  napkin  into  three  parts  long- 
ways, then  turn  down  the  two  edges  as 
in  Fig.  7,  and  roll  up  the  part  A  on  both 
sides,  until  as  represented  on  the  right- 
hand  side  in  Fig.  14;  then  turn  it  back- 
wards (as  A  B)  on  both  sides  ;  now  fold 
down  the  point  C  towards  you,  turn  over 
the  napkin,  and  fold  the  two  other  parts 
from  you  so  that  they  shall  appear  as  in 
Fig.  15.  Turn  the  napkin  over,  thus 
folded,  and  raising  the  .centre  part  with 
the  two  thumbs,  draw  the  two  ends  (A 
and  B)  together,  and  pull  out  the  parts 
(C  and  D)  until  they  appear  as  in  Fig. 
14.  The  bread  is  to  be  placed  as  repre- 
sented in  K3  Fig.  14. 

DINNERS. 

Dinners. — The  appearance  a  dinner- 
table  presents  does  not  depend  so  much 
upon  a  profuseness  of  viands,  as  upon 
the  neatness,  cleanliness,  and  well-studied 
arrangement  of  the  whole.  Taste,  if 
well  directed,  may  produce  a  handsome 
dinner ;  whereas  three  times  the  amount 
of  money  rr.ay  be  expended  upon  another, 
and  yet  not  make  even  a  respectable  ap- 
pearance. 

We  cannot  too  strongly  urge  the  ne- 
cessity of  having  things  done  in  the  same 
manner  every  day  as  when  there  is.  com- 
pany. The  servants  become  accustomed 


FOLDING   NAPKINS. 


97 


Jiff. 


Jig.*, 
o 


Jig.  IB. 


98 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


to  waiting  properly,  things  are  always 
at  hand,  and  they  do  not  appear  awk- 
ward when  visitors  drop  in ;  then  every 
thing  is  regular,  and  goes  on  smoothly. 


To  Lay  the  Cloth.— The  table  should 
he  well  polished,  and  then  covered  with 
a  cloth,  over  which  a  fine  white  damask 
one  should  be  spread.  If  the  white  cloth 
is  to  be  kept  on  after  dinner,  it  is  cus- 
tomary to  spread  a  small  cloth  at  either 
end  of  the  table  where  the  large  dishes 
are  placed,  to  protect  the  long  cloth  from 
accidental  spots  arising  from  gravy,  &c. ; 
these  slips  are  removed  after  dinner,  and 
the  cloth  cleaned  with  crumVbrushes. 
In  some  houses  an  entire  upper  cloth  is 
placed  upon  the  table  instead  of  slips, 
and  this  being  removed  after  dinner,  does 
not  require  the  tedious  process  of  brush- 
Ing  the  table-cloth. 

When  the  cloth  has  been  spread,  place 
carafes,  with  the  tumblers  belonging  to 
and  placed  over  them,  between  every 
four  persons,  a  salt-cellar  between  every 
third  person,  and  a  large  and  small  knife, 
fork,  and  spoon,  to  each  guest,  with  two 
wine-glasses,  a  champagne-glass,  and  a 
tumbler,  to  the  right  of  each,  and  the 
bread  placed  in  or  under  folded  napkins 
between  the  knives,  forks,  and  spoons ; 
and  at  large  entertainments  or  public 
dinners,  the  name  of  each  guest  neatly 


written  on  a  card  in  front  of  the  napkin,  so 
as  to  prevent  confusion.  The  centre  or- 
nament, usually  a  candelabrum,  plateau, 
an  epergne,  or  a  vase  of  artificial  flowers, 
must  now  be  set  on,  and  the  mats  for  the 
various  dishes  arranged ;  then  the  wine- 
coolers  or  ornamental  vases  placed  be- 
tween the  centre  piece  and  the  top  and 
bottom  dishes,  with  the  wines  in  the 
original  bottles,  loosely  corked ;  the 
spoons  for  helping  the  various  dishes, 
asparagus  tongs,  fish  knife  and  fork  or 
slice,  and  carving  knives  and  forks,  are 
placed  in  front  of  the  respective  dishes 
to  which  they  belong;  and  knife-rests 
opposite  to  those  who  have  to  carve ; 
with  a  bill  of  fare,  and  a  pile  of  soup- 
plates  before  those  that  have  to  help 
the  soup. 

In  arranging  or  laying  out  a  table, 
several  things  require  particular  atten- 
tion, and  especially  the  following : — 

Plate  should  be  well  cleaned,  and  have 
a  bright  polish ;  few  things  look  worse 
than  to  see  a  greasy -looking  epergne  and 
streaky  spoons.  Glass  should  be  well 
rubbed  with  a  wash-leather,  dipped  in  a 
solution  of  fine  whiting  and  stone-blue, 
and  then  dried  ;  afterwards  it  should  be 
polished  with  an  old  silk  handkerchief. 
Plates  and  dishes  should  be  hot,  other- 
wise the  guests  will  be  disgusted  by  see- 
ing flakes  of  fat  floating  about  in  the 
gravy.  Bread  should  be  cut  in  pieces 
about  an  inch  thick,  and  each  round  of  a 
loaf  into  six  parts,  or  if  for  a  dinner 
party,  dinner  rolls  should  be  ordered. 
The  bread  is  placed  under  the  napkins, 
or  on  the  left  of  each  guest,  if  dinner 
napkins  are  not  used ;  some  of  the  bread 
being  placed  in  a  bread-tray  covered  with 
a  crochet  cloth  upon  the  sideboard. 
Lights,  either  at  or  after  the  dinner, 
should  be  subdued,  and  above  the  guests, 
if  possible,  so  as  to  be  shed  upon  the 
table,  without  intercepting  the  view, 
Sauces,  either  bottle,  sweet,  or  boat — 
vegetables,  and  sliced  cucumber,  or  glazed 


THE   DINNER. 


99 


onions  for  stubble  goose,  should  be  placed 
upon  the  sideboard;  a  plate  basket  for 
removing  the  soiled  plates  is  usually 
placed  under  the  sideboard,  or  some  other 
convenient  part  of  the  room ;  and  two 
knife-trays^  covered  with  napkins,  are 
placed  upon  a  butler's  tray;  these  are 
used  for  removing  soiled  carvers  and 
forks,  and  the  soiled  silver.  Ifc  is  useful 
to  have  a  large-sized  brad-awl,  a  cork- 
screw, and  funnel,  with  strainer;  the 
former  to  break  the  wire  of  the  cham- 
pagne bottles,  and  the  latter  to  strain 
port  wine,  if  required  to  be  opened  dur- 
ing dinner. 

To  lay  out  thp  sideboard  or  tray. — Lit- 
tle requires  to  be  done,  except  to  arrange 


the   silver,  knives, 


cruets,  and  various 


dishes  to  be  placed  there.  The  silver 
should  be  arranged  on  one  end  of  the 
sideboard,  as  m  Figs.  1  and  2,  the  gravy 
spoons  being  placed  bowl  to  handle,  and 
the  cheese-scoop,  marrow-spoon,  and  salad 
spoons  or  scissors,  where  most  conven- 
ient. The  knives  are  placed  as  in  Fig.  3, 
for  the  convenience  of  removal,  because 
by  this  means  a  single  knife  can  be  ab- 


Figs.  l  <fe  2. 
Ktracted  without  disturbing  the  others ; 


Figs.  3  <fe  4 
carving  knives  and  forks  should  be  placed 


above  the  others,  point  to  handle.  The 
wine-glasses,  tumblers,  and  finger-glasses, 
for  dessert,  are  placed  where  most  con- 
venient, but  usually  in  the  centre  of  the 
back,  with  ice-plates  near  to  them,  and 
the  wine-glasses  placed  in  the  finger- 
glasses,  as  in  Fig.  4= ;  but  when  only  one 
glass  is  used,  that  is  placed  in  the  centre, 
mouth  downwards.  At  very  large  or 
fashionable  dinners,  the  finger-glasses 
are  sometimes  placed  on  the  dinner-table 
with  the  plain  and  colored  wine-glasses 
in  them,  and  the  same,  refilled,  are  placed 
on  again  at  dessert.  The  cruets,  sauces, 
&c.,  are  placed  at  one  end,  and  the  vege- 
tables, &c.,  in  the  centre  front  of  the  side- 
board. 

To  place  the  dishes  on  the  table. — Each 
servant  should  be  provided,  at  large  din- 
ders,  with  a  bill  of  fare,  and  instructed  at 
small  ones,  where  the  dishes  are  to  be 
placed.  No  two  dishes  resembling  each 
other  should  be  near  the  same  part  of 
the  table.  Soups  or  broth  should  always 
be  placed  at  the  head  of  the  table ;  if 
there  are  two,  top  and  bottom;  if  four, 
top,  bottom,  and  two  sides,  opposite  each 
other,  or  alternately  with  fish.  Fish 
should  be  placed  at  the  head  of  the  table ; 
if  there  are  two  sorts,  have  fried  at  the 
bottom  and  boiled  at  the  top ;  if  four, 
arrange  the  same  as  the  soup.  We  may 
observe,  that  a  white  and  a  brown,  or  a 
mild  and  a  high- seasoned  soup,  should 
occupy  either  side  of  the  centre  piece, 
and  that  it  looks  handsomer  to  have  fried 
and  boiled  fish  opposite  each  other,  but 
they  should  never  be  placed  upon  the 
same  dish.  Fish  is  generally  served  up- 
on a  napkin,  the  corners  of  which  are 
either  turned  in  or  thrown  over  the  fish, 
or  upon  a  piece  of  simple  netting,  which 
is  turned  in  all  round ;  but  we  recommend 
our  readers  to  use  the  elegant  serviette, 
as  being  more  stylish. 

The  first  course  generally  consists  of 
soups  and  fish,  which  are  removed  by  the 
roasts,  stews,  &c.,  of  the  second  course. 


100 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


The  second  course,  when  there  are  three, 
consists  of  roasts  and  stews  for  the  top 
and  bottom ;  turkey  or  fowls,  ham  gar- 
nished, tongue,  or  fricandeau,  for  the 
sides ;  with  small  made  dishes  for  corners, 
served  in  covered  dishes,  as  curries,  ra- 
gouts, fricassees,  stews,  &c. 

When  there  are  two  roasts,  one  should 
be  white,  and  the  other  brown.  Removes 
are  generally  placed  upon  large  dishes, 
for,  as  they  supply  the  place  of  the  fish 
and  soups,  they  constitute  the  princi- 
pal part  of  the  dinner.  What  are  termed 
flancs  are  not  so  large  as  the  removes, 
nor  so  small  as  the  entrees,  or  made  dish- 
es, and  are  generally  served  in  a  different- 
ly formed  dish.  They  are  seldom  used 
except  when  there  are  eighteen  or  twen- 
ty persons. 

Entrees,  or  made  dishes,  require  great 
care  in  placing  them  upon  the  table,  other- 
wise the  gravy  slops  over  and  soils  the 
dish ;  they  are,  therefore,  usually  served 
with  a  wall  of  mashed  potatoes,  rice,  or 
other  vegetables,  to  keep  them  in  their 
proper  place.  They  should  also  be  served 
as  hot  as  possible. 

When  there  is  but  one  principal  dish, 
it  should  be  placed  at  the  head  of  the  ta- 
ble. If  three  dishes,  the  principal  to  the 
head,  and  the  others  opposite  each  other, 
near  the  bottom ;  if  four,  the  largest  to 
the  head,  the  next  size  to  the  foot,  and 
the  other  two  at  the  sides ;  if  five,  place 
the  same  as  for  four,  with  the  smallest  in 
the  centre ;  if  six^  place  the  same  as  for 
four,  with  two  small  dishes  on  each  side ; 
if  seven,  put  three  dishes  down  the  cen- 
tre of  the  table,  and  two  on  each  side ;  if 
eight,  four  dishes  down  the  middle,  and 
two  on  each  side,  at  equal  distances  ;  if 
nine,  place  them  in  three  equal  lines,  but 
with  the  proper  dishes  at  the  top  and 
bottom'of  the  table ;  if  ten,  put  four  down 
the  centre,  one  at  each  corner,  and  one 
on  each  side,  opposite  the  vacancy  be- 
tween the  two  central  dishes;  or  four 
down  the  middle  and  three  on  each  side, 


opposite  the  vacancies  of  the  centre  dish- 
es ;  if  twelve,  place  them  in  three  rows 
of  four  each,  or  six  down  the  middle,  and 
three  at  equal  distances  on  each  side.  If 
more  than  twelve,  they  must  be  arranged 
dn  the  same  principles,  but  varying  ac- 
cording to  number. 

Oval  or  circular  dining-tables  require 
to  have  the  dishes  arranged  in  a  shape 
corresponding  to  the  table. 

The  third  course  consists  of  game,  deli- 
cate vegetables,  dressed  in  the  French 
style,  then  puddings,  creams,  jellies,  &c. 

When  there  are  only  two  courses,  the 
first  generally  consists  of  soups  and 
fish,  removed  by  boiled  poultry,  ham, 
tongue,  stews,  roasts,  ragouts,  curries,  or 
made  dishes  generally,  with  vegetables. 
The  second  consists  of  roasted  poultry  or 
game  at  the  top  and  bottom,  with  dressed 
vegetables,  maccaroni,  &c.,  succeeded  by 
jellies,  creams,  preserved  fruit,  pastry  and 
general  confectionery.  It  is  generalty  con- 
trived to  give  as  great  a  variety  as  possi- 
ble in  these  dinners:  thus — a  jelly,  a 
cream,  a  comp6te,  an  ornamental  cake;  a 
dish  of  preserved  fruit,  fritters,  a  blanc- 
mange, a  pudding,  &c. 

Salads  and  celery  are  usually  served 
before  the  puddings  and  pastry  are  in- 
troduced. In  Great  Britain,  after  the 
third  course,  cheese,  ornamented  butter, 
salad,  radishes,  celery  in  a  glass  bowl  or 
on  a  dish,  sliced  cucumber  (and  at  small 
parties,  marrow-bones),  are  served.  A 
marrow-spoon,  cheese-scoop,  and  butter- 
knife,  being  required  upon  the  table,  are 
to  be  placed  near  the  dishes,  a  knife 
and  fork  near  the  celery,  and  a  pair  of 
salad-scissors  or  a  fork  and  spoon  in  the 
bowl  with  the  salad. 

The  cheese  may  be  served  in  a  glass 
bowl,  and  handed  round  from  right  to 
left;  or  surrounded  with  the  elegant 
serviette,  and  placed  upon  the  cheese- 
cloth. The  bread  may  be  served  as 
usual,  piled  up  on  a  crochet  cloth  in  a 
plated  bread-basket  placed  in  the  centre. 


ATTENDANCE   AT   TABLE. 


101 


Waiting  at  Table. — Much  confusion  is 
avoided  by  having  an  attendant  upon 
each  side  of  the  table ;  or,  if  the  party  is 
large,  more  than  one,  according  to  the 
number.  The  usual  number  required 
for  parties  is  given  below ;  and  if  the  in- 
come admit  of  it,  the  scale  may  be  in- 
creased according  to  the  second  column, 
which  will  materially  add  to  the  comfort 
of  the  guests. 


Guests. 


12 
15 
20 
30 
40 


Servants. 
.    1    2 


2  3 

3  4 

4  6 
6    8 
9  12 


50 12  20  &c. 

Every  attendant  should  be  neatly  attired, 
have  a  white  neckcloth  and  white  gloves 
on,  should  know  where  all  the  articles 
reqired  are,  where  the  cashes  are  to  be 
placed,  and,  in  fact,  be  acquainted  with 
the  whole  routine  of 'the  party;  and 
therefore  it  is  better  to  provide  each  one 
with  a  bill  of  fare. 

When  every  guest  is  seated,  a  servant 
appointed  for  that  purpose  should  stand 
by  the  side  of  each  dish,  with  the  right 
hand  upon  the  cover;  and  as  soon  as 
grace  is  said,  the  cover  is  to  be  removed, 
and  placed  in  some  convenient  part  of  the 
room.  The  plates  for  soup  should  then 
be  taken  singly  from  the  pile  opposite 
the  person  serving  it,  and  carried  to  those 
guests  who  desire  that  particular  soup, 
observing  that  ladies  are  to  be  attended 
to  before  gentlemen,  and  that  these 
should  commence  from  the  head  of  the 
table,  continuing  until  both  sides  are 
helped. 

Soon  after  the  soup  has  been  served, 
the  servants  may  pass  down  each  side  of 
the  table,  and  ask  each  guest  what  they 
will  take,  helping  them  to  the  dish  de- 
sired as  soon  as  it  can  be  procured. 
When  champagne  is  given,  it  is  handed 
7 


round  upon  a  waiter  or  salver  at  small 
parties,  commencing  at  the  right-hand 
side  of  the  table  from  the  top  and  bottom 
simultaneously,  without  any  distinction 
as  regards  ladies  or  gentlemen.  In  large 
parties — and  we  prefer  the  arrangement 
ourselves  even  in  small  ones — the  bottle 
being  enveloped  as  far  as  the  neck  with 
a  clean  dinner-napkin,  the  wine  is  helped 
in  the  same  order  as  before;  but  in- 
stead of  being  handed  round  on  a  salver, 
the  servants  pour  the  wine  into  the  glass, 
at  the  right-hand  side  of  each  guest.  By 
these  means  there  is  less  danger  of  the 
glasses  being  broken  by  any  awkward 
collision.  The  champagne  is  generally 
iced  in  summer,  and  cool  in  winter,  and 
is  served  as  soon  as  the  soup  is  finished, 
or  just  after  the  guests  have  been  helped 
to  the  second  course  of  removes. 

Liqueurs  are  handed  round  when  sweets 
are  on  the  table.  Sauces  are  handed 
round  in  the  sauce-boat,  and  when  served 
placed  on  the  side-board  or  dinner 


J 


wagon ;  if  only  a  family  party,  they  are 


102 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOTTSEKEEPEK. 


returned  to  the  table.  Sweet  sauces  are 
handed  round  in  glass  dishes,  and  bottle 
sauces  in  a  stand  or  basket  made  for  that 
purpose. 

In  removing  the  dinner  things,  one 
servant  goes  round  the  table  with  a 
butler's  tray,  and  the  other  removes  and 
places  the  things  upon  it.  The  cloth  is 
then  brushed  with  a  crumb-brush;  or 
the  two  sides  are  turned  in,  and  then  the 
cloth  dexterously  jerked  off  the  table, 
the  lights  replaced,  and  the  dessert  set 
on. 

When  knives,  forks,  and  spoons  are  re- 
moved from  dishes  or  plates,  they  should 
be  placed  in  proper  trays  covered  with 
napkins ;  one  being  used  for  the  silver,  the 
other  for  the  steel  articles. 

When  plates  or  dishes  are  removed  from 
the  table,  great  care  is  to  be  observed 
with  respect  to  holding  them  horizontally, 
otherwise  the  gravy,  syrup,  or  liquid, 
may  injure  the  dresses  of  the  guests. 

In  some  circles,  the  fashion  prevails  of 
placing  finger-glasses  on  table  imme- 
diately preceding  dessert ;  but  in  others, 
cut-glass  bowls,  partially  filled  with  rose 
or  orange  flower  water,  iced  in  summer 
and  lukewarm  in  winter,  are  handed  down 
each  side  of  the  table,  upon  salvers ;  into 
these  the  guest  dips  the  corner  of  the 
dinner  napkin,  and  just  touches  the  lips 
and  the  tips  of  the  fingers. 

DESSERTS,  TEAS,  AND  SUPPERS. 

THE  DESSERT.— The  dessert  may  con- 
sist of  merely  two  dishes  of  fruit  for  the 
top  and  bottom;  dried  fruits,  biscuits, 
filberts,  &c.,  for  the  sides  and  corners ; 
and  &  cake  for  the  centre. 

When  the  party  is  large,  and  ices  are 
served,  the  ice- plates  are  placed  round 
the  table,  the  ice-pails  at  both  ends  of 
the  table,  and  dishes  with  wafer-biscuits, 
at  the  sides.  Some  persons  have  the  ices 
served  in  glass  dishes,  which,  together  with 
the  wafer  biscuits,  are  handed  round  be1 
fore  the  usual  dessert. 


When  there  is  preserved  ginger,  it 
follows  the  ices,  as  it  serves  to  stimulate 
the  palate,  so  that  the  delicious  coolness 
of  the  wines  may  be  better  appreciated. 

The  side  and  corner  dishes  usually  put 
on  for  dessert,  consist  of  : — Competes 
in  glass  dishes ;  frosted  fruit  served  on 
lace-paper,  in  small  glass  dishes ;  pre- 
served and  dried  fruits,  in  glass  dishes ; 
biscuits,  plain  and  fancy;  fresh  fruit, 
served  in  dishes  surrounded  with  leaves 
or  moss ;  olives,  wafer  biscuits,  brandy- 
scrolls,  &c. 

The  centre  dish  may  consist  either 
of  a  savoy  or  an  ornamental  cake,  on  an 
elevated  stand — a  group  of  waxen  fruit, 
surrounded  with  moss — a  melon — a  pine 
apple — grapes — or  a  vase  of  flowers. 

Each  plate  should  contain  a  knife,  fork, 
and  spoon,  with  two  wine-glasses,  ar- 
ranged upon  a  d'oyley,  as  in  Fig.  5. 
These  are  to  be  placed  before  each  guest, 
and  a  finger-glass,  with  cold  water  in 


Fig.  5. 


summer,  andluke-warm  water  in  "winter, 
on  the  right  of  each  plate ;  with  grape- 
scissors,  and  melon  knife  and  fork,  before 
their  respective  dishes.  Glass  bowls 
containing  sifted  sugar,  with  pierced 
ladles,  or  others  filled  with  cream,  are  to 
be  placed  near  the  centre  dish,  if  they 
are  required.  A  cut  glass  pitcher  with 
tumbler  on  either  side  should  be 


SUPPERS. — TRUSSING. 


103 


placed  in  a  convenient  part  of  the  centre 
of  the  table. 

The  wine,  either  cooled  or  not,  should 
be  placed  at  both  ends  of  the  table,  or  at 
the  bottom,  if  only  a  small  party,  the 
decanters  being  placed  in  castors, 
though  this  fashion  is  now  nearly  abol- 
ished. 

Zests  are  put  down  after  the  dessert  is 
removed,  and  consist  chiefly  of  anchovy 
toasts,  devilled  poultry  and  game,  and 
biscuits,  gravy  toast,  grills,  &c. 

Coffee  is  the  last  thing  served,  and  is 
generally  handed  round  upon  a  salver ; 
after  this,  the  gentlemen  withdraw  to  the 
drawing-r&om. 

Tea. — After  a  dinner  party,  the  tea  is 
generally  handed  round  by  two  servants, 
the  one  having  tea  and  coffee,  with  hot 
milk,  cream,  and  sugar  upon  one  tray; 
the  other  having  thinly  cut  and  rolled 
bread  and  butter,  biscuits  and  cake,  upon 
another  tray.  . 

If  served  at  an  evening  party  or  dance, 
a  servant  helps  the  guests  to  tea  or  cof- 
fee, which  is  arranged  upon  a  side-table 
in  a  small  room.  The  tea  and  coffee  oc- 
cupy the  two  ends  of  the  table,  on  either 
side  of  the  urn,  which  is  placed  in  the 
centre  and  back.  In  front  of  the  urn 
are  ranged  the  sugar-candy  for  coffee, 
sugar,  hot  milk,  cream,  bread  and  butter, 
cake,  and  biscuits. 

Tea,  when  only  for  a  small  party,  may 
be  brought  in  upon  a  tray,  the  tea  and 
coffee-pots  occupying  the  centre  of  the 
tray;  the  cups  and  saucers  the  front; 
and  the  hot  milk,  cream,  slop-basin,  and 
sugar,  the  ends.  The  urn  is  placed  at 
the  back  of  the  tray  ;  and  the  bread  and 
butter,  cut  or  not,  with  cake,  biscuits, 
muffins,  crumpets,  or  toast,  at  the  sides. 

Suppers. — The  great  secret  of  laying 
out  a  supper  consists  in  arranging  the 
china,  glass,  silver,  linen,  lights,  confec- 
tionery, substantials,  trifles,  flowers,  and 
other  articles,  with  a  due  regard  to  form, 
color,  size,  and  material. 


A  supper  table  should  neither  be  too 
much  crowded,  nor  too  scanty,  nor  scat- 
tered and  broken  up  with  small  dishes. 
Two  dishes  of  the  same  description 
should  not  be  placed  near  each  other: 
dishes  should  not  be  heaped  up  as  if  for 
a  ploughman's  repast,  but  contain  suffi- 
cient to  make  them  look  well,  without 
being  over  or  under-done  as  regards 
quantity. 

Hot  suppers  are  now  seldom  served ; 
for  people  dine  later  than  they  did  for- 
merly ;  and  besides  being  more  expen- 
sive than  cold  ones,  they  also  give  more 
trouble. 

The  centre  of  the  table  is  generally  oc- 
cupied by  an  6pergne,  vase  of  flowers, 
globe  of  fish  upon  an  elevated  stand,  a 
plateau,  or  small  fountain  ;  around  which 
are  arranged  : — Dried,  preserved,  frosted, 
or  candied  fruits ;  custards,  jellies,  and 
trifles,  in  glasses ;  and  small  biscuits. 
The  top  and  bottom  of  the  table  are  fur- 
nished with  game,  fowls,  or  meat;  the 
sides  have  dishes  of  ham  sliced ;  tongue ; 
collared,  potted,  hung,  and  grated  beef; 
brawn,  mock  or  real ;  savory  pies ;  lob- 
sters ;  oysters ;  dressed  crab  or  cray-fish ; 
prawn  pyramids ;  sandwiches  of  ham, 
beef,  tongue,  anchovy,  or  other  savory 
morsels  ;  tarts,  tartlets ;  cake,  biscuits ; 
whipped  and  other  creams ;  jellies,  blanc- 
mange ;  caramel  baskets  j  patties,  &c. 


CHAPTER 

TRUSSING  AND  OAEVING. 

Poultry.— The  feathers  must  be  pluck- 
ed as  soon  as  possible  after  killing — and 
the  down  singed  off  with  lighted  paper, 
the  crop  emptied  by  a  slit  cut  in  the  back 
of  the  neck,  the  vent  opened  to  clean  out 
the  entrails,  the  gall-bag  carefully  remov- 
ed, and  the  liver  and  gizzard  cleansed  in 
cold  water.  The  necks  are  to  be  cut  off 
close  to  the  body,  the  skin  being  pushed 


104 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


up  above  the  part  where  it  is  cut,  and 
afterwards  drawn  down  and  wrapped 
over  the  end  of  the  neck.  Before  fasten- 
ing it  down,  pour  cold  water  through  the 
body  of  the  fowl.  The  back-bone  and 
two  bones  leading  to  the  pinions  may  be 
broken,  and  then  the  bird  is  to  be  trussed. 

Carving. — The  carving-knife  for  poul- 
try and  game  is  smaller  and  lighter  than 
that  for  meat ;  the  point  is  more  peaked, 
and  the  handle  longer. 

In  cutting  up  wild-fowl,  duck,  goose, 
or  turkey,  more  prime  pieces  may  be  ob- 
tained by  carving  slices  from  pinion  to 
pinion  without  making  wings,  which  is 
a  material  advantage  in  distributing  the 
bird  when  the  party  is  large. 

To  Truss  a  Goose. — Pick  and  stub  it 
clean,  cut  the  feet  off  at  the  joint,  and 
the  pinion  off  at  the  first  joint.  Then 
cut  off  the  neck  close  to  the  back,  leav- 
ing the  skin  of  the  neck  long  enough  to 
turn  over  the  back.  Pull  out  the  throat, 
and  tie  a  knot  at  the  end.  Loosen  the 
liver  and  other  matters  at  the  breast  end 
with  the  middle  finger,  and  cut  it  open 
between  the  vent  and  the  rump.  Draw 
out  the  entrails,  wipe  the  body  out  clean 
with  a  cloth,  beat  the  breast-bone  flat 
with  a  rolling  pin,  put  a  skewer  into  the 
wing,  and  draw  the  legs  up  close ;  put 
the  skewer  through  the  middle  of  the 
leg,  and  through  the  body,  and  the  same 
on  the  other  side.  Put  another  skewer 
in  the  small  of  the  leg,  tuck  it  close 
down  to  the  sidesman,  run  it  through, 
and  do  the  same  on  the  other  side.  Cut 
off  the  end  of  the  vent,  and  make  a  hole 
large  enough  for  the  passage  of  the  rump, 
as  by  that  means  it  will  keep  in  the  sea- 
soning much  better.  The  best  parts  are 
the  breast  slices ;  the  fleshy  part  of  the 
wing,  which  may  be  divided  from  the 
pinion;  the  thigh-bone,  which  may  be 
easily  divided  in  the  joint  from  the  leg- 
bone  ;  the  pinion ;  and  next,  the  side- 
bones.  The  rump  is  a  nice  piece  to  those 


who  like  it ;  and  the  carcass  is  preferred 
by  some  to  other  parts. 

To  Truss  a  Turley. — When  the  bird  is 
picked  carefully,  break  the  leg  bone  close 
to  the  foot,  hang  on  a  hook,  and  draw  out 
the  strings  from  the  thigh  ;  cut  the  neck 
close  off  to  the  back,  taking  care  to  leave 
the  crop-skin  long  enough  to  turn  over 
the  back.  Remove  the  crop,  and  loosen 
the  liver  and  gut  at  the  throat  end  with 
the  middle  finger.  Cut  off  the  vent,  re- 
move the  gut,  pull  out  the  gizzard  with 
a  crooked  wire,  and  the  liver  will  soon 
follow ;  but  be  careful  not  to  break  the 
gall.  Wipe  the  inside  perfectly  clean 
with  a  wet  cloth,  then  cut  the  breast-bone 
through  on  each  side  close  to  the  back, 
and  draw  the  legs  close  to  the  crop,  then 
put  a  cloth  on  the  breast,  and  beat  the 
thigh  bone  down  with  a  rolling-pin  till  it 
lies  flat. 

If  the  turkey  is  to  be-  trussed  for  foil- 
ing,  cut  the  first  joint  of  the  legs  off; 
pass  the  middle  finger  into  the  in- 
side, raise  the  skin  of  the  legs  and  put 
them  under  the  apron  of  the  bird.  Put 
a  skewer  into  the  joint  of  the  wing  and 
the  middle  joint  of  the  leg,  and  run  it 
through  the  body  and  the  other  leg  and 
wing.  The  liver  and  gizzard  must  be 
put  in  the  pinions,  care  being  taken  to 
open  and  previously  remove  the  contents 
of  the  latter ;  the  gall  bladder  must  also 
be  detached  from  the  liver.  Then  turn 
the  small  end  of  the  pinion  on  the  back, 
and  tie  a  packthread  over  the  ends  of  the 
legs  to  keep  them  in  their  places. 

If  the  turkey  is  to  be  roasted,  leave 
the  legs  on,  put  a  skewer  in  the  joint  of 
the  wing,  tuck  the  legs  close  up,  and  put 
the  skewer  through  the  middle  of  the 
legs  and  body ;  on  the  other  side  put  an- 
other skewer  in  at  the  small  part  of  the 
I6g.  Put  it  close  on  the  outside  of  the 
sidesman,  and  push  the  skewer  through, 
and  the  same  on  the  other  side.  Put  the 
liver  and  gizzard  between  the  pinions, 


TRUSSING. 


105 


and  turn  the  point  of  the  pinion  on  the 
back.  Then  put,  close  above  the  pinions, 
another  skewer  through  the  body  of  the 
bird. 

To  Truss  Fowls. — Fowls  must  be  picked 
very  clean,  and  the  neck  cut  off  close  to 
the  back.  Take  out  the  crop,  and,  with  the 
middle  finger,  loosen  the  liver  and  other 
parts.  Cut  off  the  vent,  draw  it  clean, 
and  beat  the  breast-bone  flat  with  a  roll- 
ing pin. 

If  the  fowl  is  to  be  lolled,  cut  off  the 
nails  of  the  feet,  and  tuck  them  down 
close  to  the  legs.  Put  your  finger  into 
the  inside,  and  raise  the  skin  of  the  legs; 
then  cut  a  hole  in  the  top  of  the  skin, 
and  put  the  legs  under.  Put  a  skewer 
\n  the  first  joint  of  the  pinion,  and  bring 
the  middle  of  the  leg  close  to  it ;  put  a 
skewer  through  the  middle  of  the  leg, 
and  through  the  body,  and  then  do  the 
same  on  the  other  side.  Open  the  giz- 
zard, remove  the  contents,  and  wash  it 
well ;  remove  the  gall-bladder  from  the 
liver.  Put  the  gizzard  and  the  liver  in 
the,  pinions,  turn  the  points  on  the  back, 
and  tie  a  string  over  the  tops  of  the  legs 
to  keep  them  in  their  proper  places. 

If  the  fowl  is  to  be  roasted,  put  a 
skewer  in  the  first  joint  of  the  pinion 
and  bring  the  middle  of  the  leg  close  tc 
it.  Put  the  skewer  through  the  middle 
of  the  leg,  and  through  the  body,  and  do 
the  same  on  the  other  side.  Put  another 
skewer  in  the  small  of  the  leg,  and 
through  the  sidesman ;  do  the  same  on 
the  other  side,  and  then  put  another 
through  the  skin  of  the  feet,  which 
should  have  the  nails  cut  off. 

The  prime  parts  of  a  fowl,  whethe 
roasted  or  boiled,  are  the  wings,  breas 
and  merry-thought ;  and  next  to  these 
the' neck-bones  and  side-bones;  the  leg 
are  rather  coarse— of  a  boiled  fowl,  how 
ever,  the  legs  are  rather  more  tender  tha 
a  roasted  one ;  of  the  leg  of  a  fowl  th 
thigh  is  the  better  part,  and  therefor 


hen  given  to  any  one  should  be  sepa- 
ated  from  the  drum-stick,  which  is  done 
y  passing  the  knife  underneath,  in  the 

ollow,  and  turning  the  thigh-bone  back 

om  the  leg-bone. 

To  Truss  ChicJcens.—'Pick  and  draw  them 
n  the  same  manner  as  you  would  fowls ; 
ut,  as  their  skins  are  very  tender,  plunge 
hem  into  scalding  water,  and  remove, 
when  the  feathers  will  come  off  readily. 

If  they  are  to  be  boiled,  cut  off  the  nails, 
otch  the  sinews  on  each  side  of  the  joint} 
ut  the  feet  in  at  the  vent,  and  then  peel 
he  rump.  Draw  the  skin  tight  over 
le  legs,  put  a  skewer  in  the  first  joint 
f  the  pinion,  and  bring  the  middle  of 
he  legs  close.  Put  the  skewer  through 
he  middle  of  the  legs,  and  through  the 
X)dy;  and  do  the  same  on  the  other 
ide.  Clean  the  gizzard,  and  remove  the 
gall  from  the  liver ;  put  them  into  the 
linions,  and  turn  the  points  on  the  back. 

If  for  roasting,  cut  off  the  feet,  put  a 
skewer  in  the  first  joint  of  the  pinions, 
and  bring  the  middle  of  the  legs  close. 
Run  the  skewer  through  the  middle  of  $ie 
legs  and  body,  and  do  the  same  on  the 

ther  side.  Put  another  skewer  into  the 
sidesman,  put  the  legs  between  the  apron 
and  the  sidesman,  and  run  the  skewer 
through.  Having  cleaned  the  liver  and 
^izzardj  put  them  under  the  pinions,  turn 
the  points  on  the  back,  and  pull  the  breast- 
skin  over  the  neck. 

To  Truss  Pheasants.— Pick  them  clean, 
cut  a  slit  at  the  back  of  the  neck,  take 
out  the  crop,  loosen  the  liver,  and  gut  the 
breast  with  the  fore-finger;  then  cut  off  the 
vent,  and  draw  them.  Cut  off  the  pinion 
at  the  first  joint,  and  wipe  out  the  in- 
side with  the  pinion.  Beat  the  breast- 
bone flat  with  a  rolling-pin,  put  a  skewer 
in  the  pinion,  and  bring  the  middle  of 
the  legs  close.  Then  run  the  skewer 
through  the  legs,  body,  and  the  other 
pinion,  twist  the  head,  and  put  it  on  the 


106 


THE   PRACTICAL  HOUSEKEEPER. 


end  of  the  skewer,  with  the  bill  fronting 
the  breast.  Put  another  skewer  into 
the  sidesman,  and  put  the  legs  close  on 
each  side  of  the  apron,  and  then  run  the 
skewer  through  all.  If  you  wish  the 
cock-pheasant  to  look  well,  leave  the  beau- 
tiful feathers  on  the  head,  and  cover  with 
paper  to  protect  them  from  the  fire. 
Save  the  long  feathers  from  the  tail; 
and  when  cooked,  stick  them  into  the 
rump  before  sending  to  table. 

If  the  pheasants  are  for  lolling,  put 
the  legs  in  the  same  manner  as  in  truss- 
ing a  fowl. 

To  Truss  Pigeons.— Pick  clean,  take  off 
the  neck  close  to  the  back ;  then  remove 
the  crop,  cut  off  the  vent,  and  draw  out  the 
entrails  and  gizzard,  but  leave  the  liver, 
as  a  pigeon  has  no  gall-bladder. 

If  for  roasting,  cut  off  the  toes,  cut  a 
slit  hi  one  of  the  legs,  and  put  the  other 
through  it.  Draw  the  leg  tight  to  the 
pinion,  put  a  skewer  through  the  pinion, 
legs,  and  body,  and  with  the  handle  of 
the  knife  break  the  breast  flat.  Clean 
the  gizzard,  and  put  it  under  one  of  the 
pinions,  and  turn  the  points  on  the  back. 

If  for  boiling  or  stewing,  cut  the  feet 
off  at  the  joint,  turn  the  legs,  and  stick 
them  in  the  sides,  close  to  the  pinions. 
If  for  a  pie,  they  must  be  done  in  the 
same  manner. 

To  Truss  Wild  Fowl— Pick  clean,  cut 
off  the  neck  close  to  the  back,  and,  with 
the  middle  finger,  loosen  the  liver  and 
other  parts.  Cut  off  the  pinions  at  the 
first  joint ;  then  cut  a  slit  between  the 
vent  and  the  rump,  and  draw  them  clean. 
Clean  them  properly  with  the  long  feath- 
ers on  the  wing,  cut  off  the  nails,  and  turn 
the  feet  close  to  the  legs.  Put  a  skewer 
in  the  pinion,  pull  the  legs  close  to  the 
breast,  and  run  the*  skewer  through  the 
legs,  body,  and  the  other  pinion.  Cut  off 
the  end  of  the  vent,  and  put  the  rump 
through  it. 


All  kinds  of  wild-fowl  are  to  be  truss- 
ed thus : 

To  Truss  Woodcock,  Plover  and  Snipe. 
— If  these  birds  are  not  very  fresh,  great 
care  must  be  taken  in  picking  them,  as 
they  are  very  tender  to  pick  at  any  time ; 
for  even  the  heat  of  the  hand  will  some- 
times take  off  the  skin,  which  will  de- 
stroy the  beauty  of  the  bird.  When 
picked  clean,  cut  the  pinions  in  the  first 
joint,  and  with  the  handle 
of  a  knife  beat  the  breast- 
bone flat.  Turn  the  legs 
close  to  the  thighs,  and  tie  them  together 
at  the  joints.  Put  the  thighs  close  to 
the  pinions,  put  a  skewer  into  the  pin- 
ions, and  run  it  through  the  thighs,  body, 
and  other  pinions.  Skin  the  head,  turn 
it,  take  out  the  eyes,  and  put  the  head  on 
the  point  of  the  skewer,  with  the  bill 
close  to  the  breast.  These  birds  must 
never  be  drawn. 

To  Truss  small  Birds. — Pick  well,  cut 
off  their  heads,  and  the  pinions  of  the 
first  joint.  Beat  the  breast-bone  flat,  and 
turn  the  feet  close  to  the  legs,  and  put 
one  into  the  other.  Draw  out  the  gizzard, 
and  run  a  skewer  through  the  middle  of 
the  bodies.  Tie  the  skewer  fast  to  the 
spit  when  you  put  them  down  to  roast. 

To  Truss  Hare  or  Rabbit. — A  hare  or 
rabbit  should  be  pauncTied,  or  cleaned,  as 
soon  as  it  is  killed.  The  inside  should  be 
kept  dry  and  peppered.  "When  trussed, 
the  sinews  of  the  hind-legs  must  be  cut, 
and  the  legs  turned  towards  the  head  and 
fastened  to  the  sides.  The  fore-legs  must 
be  turned  to  meet  the  hind-legs,  and  fas- 
tened, with  slight  skewers  to  the  body. 
The  head  is  thrown  back  and  kept  in 
place  by  a  skewer  passed  through  it. 
The  stuffing  is  put  in,  and  the  skin  sew- 
ed up.  A  string  fastens  all  compactly 
together.  The  ears  of  a  rabbit  are  to  be 
cut  off  when  roasted  or  boiled. 


CARVING. 


107 


CAKVINGk 

Ladies  ought  especially  to  make  carv- 
ing a  study ;  at  their  own  houses,  they 
grace  the  table,  and  should  be  enabled  to 
perform  the  task  allotted  to  them  with 
sufficient  skill  to  prevent  remark  or  the 
calling  forth  of  eager  proffers  of  assist1 
ance  from  good-natured  visitors  near, 
who  probably  would  not  present  any  bet- 
ter claim  to  a  neat  performance. 

Carving  presents  no  difficulties  ;  it  re- 
quires simply  knowledge.  All  display 
of  exertion  or  violence  are  in  very  bad 
taste;  for,  if  not  an  evidence  of  the 
want  of  ability  on  the  part  of  the  car- 
ver, they  present  a  very  strong  testi- 
mony of  the  toughness  of  a  joint  or  the 
more  than  full  age  of  a  bird :  in  both 
cases  they  should  be  avoided.  A  good 
knife  of  moderate  size,  sufficient  length 
of  handle,  and  very  sharp,  is  requisite ; 
for  a  lady  it  should  be  light,  and  smaller 
than  that  used  by  gentlemen.  Fowls  are 
very  easily  carved,  and  joints,  such  as 
loins,  breasts,  fore-quarters,  &c.  The 
butcher  should  have  strict  injunctions  to 
separate  the  joints  well. 

The  dish  upon  which  the  article  to  be 
carved  is  placed  should  be  conveniently 
near  to  the  carver,  so  that  he  has  ful 
control  over  it ;  for  if  far  off,  nothing 
can  prevent  an  ungraceful  appearance 
nor  a  difficulty  in  performing  that  which 
in  its  proper  place  could  be  achieved  wit! 


In  serving  fish,  some  nicety  and  car* 
must  be  exercised ;  here  lightness  of  ham 
and  dexterity  of  management  is  neces 
sary,  and  can  only  be  acquired  by  prac 
tice.  ^The  flakes  which,  in  such  fish  a 
salmon  and  cod  are  large,  should  not  b 
broken  in  serving,  for  the  beauty  of  th 
fish  is  then  destroyed,  and  the  appetit 
for  it  injured.  In  addition  to  '.he  skil 
*  in  the  use  of  the  knife,  there  is  also  re 
quired  another  description  of  knowledge 
and  that  is  an  acquaintance  with  the  bes 
parts  of  the  joint,  fowl,  or  fish  bein 


arved.  Thus,  in  a  haunch  of  venison, 
le  fat,  which  is  a  favorite,  must  be  serv- 
d  with  each  slice ;  hi  the  shoulder  of 
.utton  there  are  some  delicate  cuts  in 

e  under  part.    The  breast  and  wings 
re  the  best  parts  of  a  fowl,  the  trail  of  ' 

woodcock  on  a  toast  is  the  choicest 
art  of  the  bird.  In  fish  a  part  of  the 
oe,  melt,  or  liver  should  accompany  the 
iece  of  fish  served ;  the  list,  however, 
3  too  numerous  to  mention  here ;  and, 
ndeed,  the  knowledge  can  only  be  ac- 
uired  by  experience.  In  large  establish- 
ments the  gross  dishes  are  carved  at  the 
>uffet  by  the  butler,  but  in  general  they 
ire  placed  upon  the  table. 

Fish  is  served  with  a  fish-slice,  or  the 
new  fish-knife  and  fork,  and  requires 

ery  little  carving,  care  being  required, 
lowever,  not  to  break  the  flakes,  which, 
from  their  size,  add  much  to  the  beauty 
of  cod  and  salmon.  Serve  part  of  the 
roe,  melt,  or  liver,  to  each  person.  The 
heads  of  carp,  part  of  those  of  ctfd  and 
salmon,  sounds  of  cod,  and  fins  of  turbot, 
are  likewise  considered  delicacies. 


Mackerel 

Should  be  deprived  of  the  head  and  tail 
by  passing  the  slice  across  in  the  direc- 
tion of  lines  1  and  2 ;  they  should  then 
be  divided  down  the  back,  so  as  to  assist 
each  person  to  a  slice  ;  but  if  less  is  re- 
quired, the  thicker  end  should  be  given, 
as  it  is  more  esteemed.  If  the  roe  is 
asked  for,  it  will  be  found  between  1  and 

2. 

'  Barbel,  Carp,  Haddock,  Herring,  Perch, 
Whiting,  &c.,  should  be  helped  the  same 


108 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


as  Mackerel ;  remembering  that  the  head 
of  the  Carp  is  esteemed  a  delicacy. 


Cod's  Head  and  Shoulders. 

Pass  the  fish-slice  or  knife  from  1  to  6 
down  to  the  bone ;  then  help  pieces  from 
between  1 — 2,  and  3 — 4,  and  with  each 
slice  give  a  piece  of  the  sojmd,  which 
lies  under  the  back-bone,  and  is  procured 
by  passing  the  knife  in  the  direction  4 — 
5.  There  are  many  delicate  parts  about 
the  head,  particularly  the  oyster,  which 
is  the  cheek,  below  the  eye  ;  and  a  great 
deal  of  the  jelly  kind,  which  lies  about 
the  jaws.  The  tongue  aud  palate  are 
considered  delicacies,  and  are  obtained 
by  passing  the  slice  or  a  spoon  into  the 
mouth. 


Salmon. 

Give  a  portion  of  the  back  and  belly 
to  each  person,  or  as  desired.  If  a  whole 
salmon  is  served,  remember  that  the 
choice  parts  are  next  the  head,  the  thin 
part  is  the  next  best,  and  the  tail  the 
least  esteemed.  Make  an  incision  along 
the  back,  9  to  10,  and  another  from  1  to 
2,  and  3  to  4;  cut  the  thickest  part,  bc- 
•  tween  5—6.  10—2,  for  the  lean  j  and 
7—8  for  the  fat.  When  the  fish  is  very 
thick,  do  not  help  too  near  the  bone,  as 
the  flavor  and  color  are  not  so  good. . 

Although  carving  with  ease  and  ele- 
»  gance  is  a  very  necessary  accomplish- 
ment, yet  most  people  are  lamentably 


deficient  not  only  in  the  art  of  dissecting 
winged  game  and  poultry,  but  also  in 
the  important  point  of  knowing  the  parts 
most  generally  esteemed.  Practice  only 
can  make  good  carvers  ;  but  the  direc- 
tions here  given,  with  accompanying 
plates,  will  enable  any  one  to  disjoint  a 
fowl,  and  avoid  the  awkwardness  of  dis- 
figuring a  joint. 

In  the  first  place,  whatever  is  to  be 
carved  should  be  set  in  a  dish  sufficiently 
large  for  turning  it  if  necessary ;  but  the 
dish  itself  should  not  be  moved  from  its 
position,  which  should  be  so  close  before 
the  carver  as  only  to  leave  room  for  the 
plates.  The  carving-knife  should  be 
light,  sharp,  well-tempered,  and  of  a  size 
proportioned  to  the  joint,  strength  being 
less  required  than  address  in  the  manner 
of  using  it.  Large  solid  joints,  such  as 
ham,  fillet  of  veal,  and  salt  beef,  cannot 
be  cut  too  thin ;  but  mutton,  roast  pork, 
and  the  other  joints  of  veal,  should  never 
DC  served  in  very  slender  slices. 

A  Sound  (buttock)  or  Aitch-bone  of 
Beef. — Pare  off  from  the  upper  part,  of 


Aitch-bone  of  Beet 

ither,  a  slice  from  the  whole  surface,  of 
about  half  an  inch  thick,  and  put  it  aside ; 

;hen  cut  thin  slices  of  both  lean  and  fat, 

n  the  direction  from  a  to  5.     Tne  soft 

fat,  which  resembles  marrow,  lies  at  the 
back  of  the  aitch-bone,  below  c,  but  the 
firm  fat  must  be  cut  in  slender  horizon- 

al  slices  at  #,  and  is  much  better  than 

he  soft  when  eaten  cold. 
Ribs  of  Beef. — Cut  along  the  whole 

length  of  the  bone,  from  end  to  end,  a  to 


CARVING. 


109 


Z>,  either  commencing  in  the  centre  or  at 
one  side,  having  the  thin  end  towards 
you  ;  but  if  cut  from  the  bone  and  form- 
ed into  a  round,  with  the  fat  end  doubled 
into  the  centre,  it  must  then  be  cut  in 
the  same  manner  as  the  round  of  beef. 


Brisket  of  Beef. 

Brisket  of  Beef  must  be  carved  in  the 
direction  1  and  2,  quite  down  to  the  bone, 
after  cutting  off  the  outside,  which  should 
be  about  three-quarters  of  an  inch  thick. 

Sirloin  of  Beef . — Cut  in  the  same  man- 


Sirloin  of  Beef. 

ner  as  the  ribs,  commencing  either  at  the 
centre  or  the  side,  as  from  a  to  5.  The 
under  part  should  be  cut  across  the  bone, 
as  at  c  for  the  lean,  and  d  for  the  rich  fat ; 
many  persons  prefer  the  under  to  the 
upper  part,  the  meat  being  more  tender. 
Fillet  of  Veal.— Carve  it  in  the  same 


Fillet  of  Veal. 

manner  as  the  round  of  beef;  but  the  up- 


per slice  should  be  cut  somewhat  thinner, 
as  most  persons  like  a  little  of  the  brown, 
and  a  portion  of  it  should  be  served  along 
with  each  slice,  together  with  a  slice  of 
the  fat  and  stuffing,  which  is  skewered 
within  the  flap. 

Neck  of  Veal. — Cut  across  the  ribs,  as 


Neck  of  Teal 
at  a  to  & :  the  small  bones,  as  at  c  to  d, 
being  cut  off,  divided,  and  served  separate- 
ly, for  it  is  not  only  a  tedious,  but  a  vul- 
gar operation  to  attempt  to  disjoint  the 
ribs. 

Loin  of  Veal. — The  joint  is  placed  in 
the  dish  in  the  same  manner  as  a  sirloin 
of  beef,  but  should  be  turnsd  up,  and  the 
whole  of  the  kidney  and  fat  cut  out ;  the 
fat  being  usually  put  upon  a  dry  toast 
and  served  as  marrow.  The  loin  is  then 
returned  to  its  former  position,  and  the 
meat  should  be  cut  across  the  ribs  as  in 
the  neck,  serving  it  with  a  slice  of  kid- 
ney. 


Knuckle  of  VeaL 

Knuckle  of  Veal  is  to  be  carved  in  the 
direction  1—2.  The  most  delicate  fat 
lies  about  the  part  4,  and  if  cut* in  the 
line  3—4,  the  two  bones,  between  which 
the  marrowy  fat  lies,  will  be  divided. 

Breast  of  Veal,  being  very  gristly,  is 


110 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


not  easily  divided  into  pieces.  In  order, 
therefore,  to  avoid  this  difficulty,  put 
your  knife  at  a  about  four  inches  from 


Breast  of  VeaL 

the  edge  of  the  thickest  part  (which  is 
called  "  the  brisket"),  and  cut  through 
it  to  5,  to  separate  it  from  the  long  ribs  : 
cut  the  short  bones  across,  as  at  d,  d,  d, 
and  the  long  ones  as  at  c,  c,  c ;  ask  which  is 
chosen,  and  help  accordingly.  The  re- 
maining scrag  part  is  seldom  served  at 
table,  but  forms  an  excellent  stew  when 
dressed  in  the  French  mode. 

Shoulder  of  Veal— Cut  in  the  same 
manner  as  a  shoulder  of  mutton,  begin- 
ning on  the  under  side. 

Calf  s  Head.— Cut  slices  from  a  to  I  in 


Calf  s  Head. 

the  figure,  which  describes  only  half 
the  head,  letting  the  knife  go  close  to  the 
bono.  Many  like  the  eye  at  c,  which 
you  roust  cut  out  with  the  point  of  your 
knife,  and  divide  hi  two,  along  with  some 
of  the  glutinous  bits  which  surround  it. 
If  the  jaw-bone  be  taken  off,  there  will 
be  found  some  fine  lean,  and  under  the 
head  is  the  palate,  which  is  reckoned  a 
delicacy. 

The  tongue  and  brains  are  dished  sep- 
arately, but  served  in  small  portions 
along  with  the  head. 


Leg  of  Mutton. — The  best  part  of  a  leg 
:f 


d     < 
Leg  of  Mutton. 

of  mutton,  whether  boiled  or  roasted,  is 
midway  between  the  knuckle  and  the 
broad  end.  Begin  to  help  there  from  the 
roundest  and  thickest  part,  by  cutting 
slices,  not  too  thin,  from  5  down  to  c. 
This  part  is  the  most  juicy ;  but  many 
prefer  the  knuckle,  which,  in  fine  mutton, 
will  be  very  tender,  though  dry.  There 
are  very  fine  slices  in  the  back  of  the  leg ; 
therefore,  if  the  party  be  large,  turn  it  up 
and  cut  the  broad  end  ;  not  across  in  the 
direction  you  did  the  other  side,  ~but  long- 
wise, from  the  thick  end  to  the  knuckle- 
bone. To  cut  out  the  cramp-bone,  which 
some  persons  look  upon  as  a  delicacy, 
pass  your  knife  under  in  the  direction  of 
e,  and  it  will  be  found  between  that  and  d. 

Shoulder  of  Mutton,  though  commonly 
looked  upon  as  a  very  homely  joint,  is 
by  many  preferred  to  the  leg,  as  there  is 
much  variety  of  flavor,  as  well  as  texture, 
in  both  the  upper  and  under  parts. 

The  figure  represents  it  laid  in  the  dish 
as  always  served,  with  its  lack  upper- 
most. Cut  through  it  from  a  down  to 


Shoulder  of  Mutton. 

the  blade-bone  at  & ;  afterwards  slice  it 
along  each  side  of  the  blade-bone  from  c 


CAKV1NG. 


Ill 


c  5.    The  prime  part  of  the  fat  lies  on 
the  outer  edge,  and  is  to  be  cut  in  thin 
slices  in  the  direction  of  d. 
The  under  part,  as  here  represented, 


contains  many  favorite  pieces  of  different 
sorts,  as,  crosswise,  in  slices,  near  the 
shank-bone  at  &;  and,  lengthwise,  in 
broad  pieces,  at  the  further  end  a;  as 
well  as  in  the  middle  and  sides  in  the 
manner  designated  at  c  and  d. 

Should  it  be  intended  to  reserve  a  por- 
tion of  the  joint  to  be  eaten  cold,  all  this 
undermost  part  should  be  first  cut  away 
and  served  separately,  both  as  it  eats  bet- 
ter hot  than  cold,  and  as  the  upper  re- 
maining part  will  appear  more  sightly  in 
the  table. 

Loin  of  Mutton.— Cut  the  joints  into 
chops  and  serve  them  separately ;  or  cut 
slices  the  whole  length  of  the  loin ;  or 
run  the  knife  along  the  chine-bone,  and 
then  slice  it,  the  fat  and  lean  together, 
as  shown  in  the  cut  of  the  saddle,  hi 
the  next  column. 

Neck  of  Mutton.— It  should  be  prepar- 
ed for  table  as  follows:— Cut  off  the 
scrag;  have  the  chine-bone  carefully 
sawn  off,  and  also  the  top  of  the  long 
bones  (about  an  inch  and  a  half,)  and  th< 
thin  part  turned  under ;  carve  in  the  di 
rection  of  the  bones. 

The  scrag  of  mutton,  when  roasted,  i 
very  frequently  separated  from  the  ribi 
of  the  neck,  and  in  that  case  the  mea 
and  bones  may  be  helped  together. 

Saddle  of  Mutton.— Gut  in  long  anc 
rather  thin  slices  from  the  tail  to  th 
end,  beginning  at  each  side  close  to  th 


back-bone,  from  a  to  &,  with  slices  of  fat 


Saddle  of  Mutton. 

Tom  c  to  d;  or  along  the  bone  which 
divides  the  two  loins,  so  as  to  loosen 
from  it  the  whole  of  the  meat  from  that 
side  which  you  then  cut  crosswise,  thus 
giving  with  each  slice  both  fat  and  lean. 
The  tail  end  is  usually  divided  and  partly 
turned  up.  Some  butchers  also  skewer 
the  kidneys  across  the  incision,  but  it  is 
not  usual  at  genteel  tables,  and  the  inci 
sion  is  better  omitted. 


Fore-Quarter  of  Lamb.       Haunch  of  Venison, 


112 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


Haunch  of  Mutton. — A  haunch  is  the 
leg  and  part  of  the  loin,  and  is  cut  in  the 
same  manner  as  a  haunch  of  venison. 

Fore-Quarter  of  Lamb.— Pass  the 
knife  under  the  shoulder  in  the  direction 
of  /z,  c,  5,  d,  so  as  to  separate  it  from  the 
ribs  without  cutting  the  meat  too  much 
off  the  bones.  A  Seville  orange  or 
lemon  should  then  be  divided,  the  halves 
sprinkled  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  the 
juice  squeezed  over  the  under  part.  A 
little  cold  or  melted  butter  is  then  put 
between  both  parts,  after  which  the 
shoulder  is  placed  in  a  separate  dish  to 
be  helped  by  some  other  person.  Divide 
the  ribs  from  d  to  e:  and  then  serve  the 
neck/,  and  breast  g-,  as  may  be  chosen. 

Haunch  of  Venison. — Have  the  joint 
lengthwise  before  you,  the  knuckle  being 
the  farthest  point.  Cut  from  a  to  &,  but 
be  careful  not  to  let  out  the  gravy ;  then 
cut  along  the  whole  length  from  a  down 
to  d.  The  knife  should  slope  in  making 
the  first  cut,  and  then  the  whole  of  the 
gravy  will  be  received  in  the  well.  The 
greater  part  of  the  fat,  which  is  the  fa- 
vorite portion,  will  be  found  at  the  left 
side,  and  care  must  be  taken  to  serve 
some  with  each  slice. 

Neck  of  Venison. — Cut  across  the  ribs 
diagonally ;  or  it  may  be  cut  in  slices 
the  whole  length  of  the  neck.  The  first 
method  is  equally  good,  and  much  more 
economical. 


Leg  of  Pork. 

A  leg  of  Por\  whether  boiled  or  roast- 
ed, is  carved  the  same.  Commence  about 
midway,  between  the  knuckle  and  the 
thick  end,  and  cut  thin  deep  slices  from 
cither  side  of  the  line  1  to  2. 


PorJc. — In  helping  the  roast  loin  and 
leg,  your  knife  must  follow  the  direction 
of  the  scores  cut  by  the  oook  upon  the 
skin  which  forms  the  crackling,  as  it  is 
too  crisp  for  being  conveniently  divided, 
and  cannot  therefore  be  cut  across  the 
bones  of  the  ribs,  as  in  loin  of  mutton. 
The  scores  upon  the  roasted  leg  are,  how- 
ever, always  marked  too  broadly  for 
single  cuts  ;  the  crackling  must  therefore 
be  lifted  up  from  the  back  to  allow  of 
thin  slices  being  cut  from  the  meat ;  the 
seasoning  is  under  the  skin  at  the  larger 
end. 


Ham. 

Ham. — Serve  it  with  the  back  upwards, 
sometime^  ornamented,  and  generally 
having,  as  in  France,  the  shank-bone 
covered  with  cut  paper.  Begin  in  the 
middle  by  cutting  long  and  very  thin 
slices  from  a  to  5,  continuing  down  to 
the  thick  fat  at  the  broad  end.  The  first 
slice  should  be  wedge-shaped,  that  all  the 
others  may  be  cut  slanting,  which  gives 
a  handsome  appearance  to  them.  Many 
persons,  however,  prefer  the  hock  at  d 
as  having  more  flavor ;  it  is  then  carved 
lengthwise  from  c  to  d. 


A  Tongue. 

A  Tongue  should  be  cut  across,  nearly 


CARVING. 


113 


through  the  middle,  at  the  line  1,  and  thin 
slices  taken  from  each  side  ;  a  portion  of 
the  fat,  which  is  situated  at  the  root  of  the 
tongue,  being  helped  with  each. 


Boast  Pig. 

Sucking-pig. — The  cook  usually  divides 
the  body  before  it  is  sent  to  table — as 
thus — and  garnishes  the  dish  with  the 
jaws  and  ears. 

Separate  a  shoulder  from  one  side,  and 
then  the  leg,  according  to  the  direction 
given  by  the  line  along  the  carcass.  The 
ribs  are  then  to  be  divided ;  and  an  ear 
or  jaw  presented  with  them,  and  plenty 
of  sauce  and  stuffing.  The  joints  may 
either  be  divided  into  two  each,  or  pieces 
may  be  cut  from  them.  The  ribs  are 
reckoned  the  finest  part ;  but  some  peo- 
ple prefer  the  neck  end,  between  the 
shoulders. 


,nd  back,  and  give  it  a  little  turn  in- 
wards at  the  joint,  which  you  must  en- 
deavor to  hit,  and  not  to  break  by  force. 
The  shoulders  may  be  removed  by  a 
ircular  cut  around  them.  The  back  is 
he  most  delicate  part,  and  next  to  that 
he  thighs.  A  portion  of  the  stuffing 
should  be  served  with  each  slice.  The 
brains  and  ears  of  sucking-pig  and  rabbit 
ire  also  considered  epicurean  titbits, 
which  must  not  be  neglected ;  wherefore, 
when  every  one  is  helped,  cut  off'  the 
lead,  put  your  knife  between  the  upper 
and  lower  jaw  and  divide  them,  which 
will  enable  you  to  lay  the  upper  fiat  on 
your  plate ;  then  put  the  point  of  the 
inife  into  the  centre,  and  cut  the  head 
nto  two. 


Babbit. 

Rabbits  —  Put  the  point  of  the  knife 
under  the  shoulder  at  6,  and  so  cut  all 
the  way  down  to  the  rump,  along  the 
sides  of  the  backbone,  in  the  limb  &,  a 
cutting  it  in  moderately  thick  slices  ;  or 
after  removing  the  shoulders  and  legs 
cut  the  back  crosswise  in  four  or  five 
pieces;  but  this  can  only  be  done  when 
the  rabbit  is  very  young,  or  when  it  is 
boned.  To  separate  the'  legs,  and 
shoulders,  put  the  knife  between  the  leg 


Boiled  Babbit 

Boiled  Rabbits.— The  legs  and  shoul- 
ders should  be  first  taken  oft^  and  then 
the  back  cut  across  into  two  parts, 
which  is  easily  done  by  a  bend  of  the 
knife  in  the  joint  underneath,  about  the 
middle  of  the  back.  The  back  is  the 
best,  and  some  of  the  liver  should  al- 
ways accompany  it. 

The  carving  of  both  WINGED  GAME 
and  POULTRY  requires  more  delicacy  of 
hand  and  nicety  in  hitting  the  joints 
than  the  cutting  of  large  pieces  of  meat, 
and,  to  be  neatly  done,  requires  consider- 
able practice. 


Koast  Turkey. 
Roast  Turkey.— Cut  long  slices  from 


114 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPEB. 


each  side  of  the  breast  down  to  the  ribs, 
beginning  at  a  I  from  the  wing  to  the 
breastbone.     Then  turn  the  turkey  upon 
the  side  nearest  you,  and  cut  off  the  leg 
and  wing ;  when  the  knife  is  passed  be- 
tween the  limbs  and  the  body,  and  press- 
ed outward,  the  joint  will  be  easily  per- 
ceived.    Then  turn  the  turkey  on  the 
other  side,  and  cut  off  the  leg  and  wing. 
Separate  the  drumsticks  from  the   leg 
bones,  and  the  pinions  from  the  wings ; 
it  is  hardly  possible  to  mistake  the  joint. 
Cut  the  stuffing  in  thin  slices,  length- 
wise.   Take  off  the  neck-bones,  which 
are  two  triangular  bones  on  each  side  of 
the  breast ;  this%  is  done  by  passing  the 
knife  from  the  back  under  the  blade  part 
of  each  neck-bone,  until  it  reaches  the 
end:    by  raising  the  knife    the    other 
branch  will  easily  crack  off.    Separate 
the  carcass  from  the  back  by  passing  the 
knife  lengthwise  from  the  neck  down- 
ward.   Turn  the  back  upwards  and  lay 
the  edge  of  the  knife  across  the  back- 
bone about   midway  between  the  legs 
and  wings  ;  at  the  same  moment,  place 
the  fork  within  the  lower  part  of  the 
turkey,  and  lift  it  up ;  this  will  make  the 
back-bone  crack  at  the  knife.   The  croup, 
or  lower  part  of  the  back,  being  cut  off, 
put  it  on  the  plate  with  the  rump  from 
you,  and  split  off  the  side-bones  by  forc- 
ing the  knife  through  from  the  rump  to 
the  other  end. 

The  choicest  parts  of  a  turkey  are  the 
side-bones,  the  breast  and  the  thigh-bones. 
The  breast  and  wings  are  called  light 
meat;  the  thigh-bones  and  side-bones 
dark  meat.  When  a  person  declines  ex- 
pressing a  preference,  it  is  polite  to  help 
to  both  kinds. 


Boiled  Turkey. 


Soiled  Turkey  is  carved  in  the  same 
way  as  the  roast,  the  only  difference 
being  in  the  trussing;  the  legs  in  the 
boiled  being,  as  here  shown,  drawn  into 
the  body,  and  in  the  roast  skewered. 

Roa%t  Fowl. — Slip  the  knife  between 
the  leg  and  body,  and  cut  to  the  bone ; 
then  with  the  fork  turn  the  leg  back,  and 
the  joint  will  give  way  if  the  bird  is  not 
old.  Take  the  wing  off  in  the  direction 
of  a  to  5,  only  dividing  the  joint  with 
your  knife.  When  the  four  quarters  are 
thus  removed,  take  off  the  merry-thought 
from  c,  and  the  neck  bones ;  these  last, 
by  putting  in  the  knife  at  d,  and  press- 
ing it,  will  break  off  from  the  part  that 
sticks  to  the  breast.  The  next  thing  is 
to  divide  the  breast  from  the  carcass,  by 


Eoast  FowL 

cutting  through  the  tender  ribs  close  to 
the  breast,  quite  down  to  the  tail.    Then 


Boiled  Fowl,  breast.  Boiled  Fowl,  back. 


ay  the  back  upwards,  put  your  knife  into 
the  bone  half  way  from  the  neck  to  the 


CARVING. 


115 


rump,  and  on  raising  the  lower  end  tt  I  neck,  and  cut  all  the  other  parts  as  in  a 
will  separate  readily.  Turn  the  rump  fowl.  The  breast,  wings,  and  merry- 
from  you,  take  off  the  two  sidesmen,  and  thought  are  the  most  esteemed:  but  the 
the  whole  will  be  done.  To  separate  the!  thigh  has  a  high  flavor. 


thigh  from  the  drumstick  of  the  leg  in- 
sert the  knife  into  the  joint  as  above.  It 
requires  practice  to  hit  the  joint  at  the 
first  trial.  The  breast  and  wings  are 
considered  the  best  parts. 

If  the  bird  be  a  capon,  or  large,  and 
roasted,  the  breast  may  be  cut  into  slices 
in  the  same  way  as  a  pheasant. 


Partridge. — It  may  be  cut  up  in  the 
same  manner  as  a  fowl ; 
but  the  bird  being  small, 
it  is  unusual  to  divide  it 
into  more  than  three 
portions — the  leg  and 
wing  being  left  togeth- 
Partridge.  er,  and  the  breast  help- 


The  difference  in  the  carving  of  boiled  1  e(j  entire  ;  the  back,  being  only  served 
and  roast  fowls  consists  only  in  the  along  with  some  of  the  other  parts.  If 
breast  of  the  latter  being  always  served  |  the  birds  are  very  young,  and  the  party 

not  over  large,  the  whole  body  is  not  un- 
frequently  only  separated  into  two 
pieces,  by  one  cut  of  the  knife  from  head 
to  tail. 

Quails. — Generally  helped  whole. 
Grouse,  Snipe,  and    Woodcock.— Pro- 
ceed as  for  partridge,  except  that  the  trail 
Eoast  Goose.  I  Qr  entrajlg  of  the  two  latter  is  gcrved  Up 

whole,  and  the  thigh-bone  being  generally    on  toastt     ^s  regards    these    different 
preferred  to  the  wing.  sorts  of  game,  the  thigh  of  the  pheasant 

..— Cut  thin  slices  from  the  breast  an(j  the  woodcock  is  the  best,  and  the 
at  a  to  & ;  the  wing  is  generally  separated  ^reast  and  wing  of  the  partridge  and 
as  in  turkeys,  but  the  leg  is  almost  con-  grouse  ;  but  the  most  epicurean  morsel 
stantly  reserved  for  broiling.  Serve  a  of  all  js  the  trail  Of  the  woodcock  serv- 
little  of  the  seasoning  from  the  inside  by  ed  up  on  toast.  Smaller  birds  should 
cutting  a  circular  slice  in  the  apron  at  c.  aiwayg  be  helped  as  they  are  roasted, 
Pheasant.— Slip  the  knife  between  the  |  whole. 

Wild-Duck,  Widgeon,  and  most  sorts 
of  water-fowl.— Make  two  or  three  in- 
cisions, as  long  slices,  into  the  breast,  on 
which  a  glass  of  hot  port-wine  is  poured ; 
have  ready  a  lemon  cut  in  half,  on  one 
,  side  covered  with  salt,  and  on  the  other 


Pheasant. 

leg  and  the  breast :  cut  off  a  wing  small 

from  a  to  I ;  then  slice  the  breast,  and  ,  Pige0n,  breast, 

you  will  have  two  or  three  handsome  Aether 

cuts     Cut   off   the    merry-thought  by    with  cayenne  PepFr     Put  both  together 
passmg  the  knife  under  il  towards  the  |  theu  squeeze  the  juice  over  the  breast, 


116 


THE  PRACTICAL  HOUSEKEEPER. 


after  which  the  slices  and  limbs  may  "D< 
served  round. 

Pigeons. — Cut  them  in  half,  through 
both  back  and  breast ;  the  lower  part  is 
generally  thought  the  best. 

Fish  requires  very  little  carving;  it 
should  be  carefully  helped  with  a  fish- 
slice, which,  not  being  sharp,  prevents 
the  flakes  from  being  broken,  and  in  sal- 
mon and  cod  these  are  large  and  add 
much  to  their  beauty. 


NAMES  OF   THE  VARIOUS   JOINTS    IN 
ANIMALS. 


I.— Beef. 


mnd  Quarter. 
1.  Sirloin. 
2.  Rump. 
8.  Aitch-Bone. 
4.  Buttock. 
5.  Mouse-Buttock. 
6.  Veiny  Piece. 
7.  Thick  Flank. 
8.  Thin  Flank. 
9.  Leg. 
10.  Fore-ribs;  5  ribs. 

Fore  Quarter. 
11.  Middle-rib  ;  4  ribs. 
12.  Chuck  ;  8  ribs. 
18.  Shoulder,  or  Leg  of 
Mutton  Piece. 
14.  Brisket 
15.  Clod. 
16.  Neck     or     Sticking 
Piece. 
IT.  Shin. 
18.  Cheek. 

2. — Mutton  or  Lamb. 


1.  Les. 

2.  Li »in,  best  end. 

8.  Loin,  chump  end. 

4.  Neck,  best  end. 

5.  Neck,  scrag  end. 


6.  Shoulder. 

7.  Breast. 

8.  Head. 

A  Chine  is  two  Neckjs. 
A  Saddle  is  two  Loins. 


3.— Porlc. 


1.  The  Spare-rib. 

2.  The  Hand. 

3.  The  Belly  or  Spring. 

4.  Fore-loin. 


5.  Hind-loin. 

6.  Leg. 

7.  Head. 


4.—  Veal. 


1.  Loin,  best -end. 

2.  Loin,  chump  end. 
8,  Fillet. 

4.  Hind-knuckle. 
).  Fore-knuckle. 
6.  Neck,  best  end. 


7.  Neck,  scrag  end. 

8.  Blade-bone. 

9.  Breast,  best  end. 

10.  Breast,  Brisket  end. 

11.  Head. 


5. —  Venison. 


.  Haunch. 
Neck. 


8.  Shoulder. 
4.  Breast. 


CHAPTER  XXIII. 

CULrNAEY  UTENSILS.* 

THE  various  utensils  used  for  the  pre 
>aration  and  keeping  of  food  are  made 

*  For  the  cuts  in  this  chapter,  and  for  the  engrav- 
ngs  of  house-keeping  utensils  throughout  the  book 


CULINAKY   UTENSILS. 


nr 


either  of  metal,  glass,  pottery  ware,  or 
wood ;  each  of  which  is  better  suited  to 
some  particular  purposes  than  the  others. 
Metallic  utensils  are  quite  unfit  for  many 
uses,  and  the  knowledge  of  this  is  neces- 
sary to  the  preservation  of  health  in 
general,  and  sometimes  to  the  prevention 
of  immediate  dangerous  consequences. 


"Waffle  Iron  to  revolve  over  hole  In  Eange  or  Stove. 

The  metals  commonly  used  in  the 
construction  of  these  vessels  are  silver, 
copper,  brass,  tin,  iron,  and  lead.  Silver 
is  preferable  to  all  others,  because  it  can- 
not be  dissolved  by  any  of  the  substan- 
ces used  as  food.  Brimstone  unites  with 
silver,  and  forms  a  thin  brittle  crust  over 
it  that  gives  it  the  appearance  of  being 
tarnished.  The  discoloring  of  silver 
spoons  used  with  eggs  arises  from  th 
brimstone  contained  in  eggs.  Nitre  or 
saltpetre  has  also  a  slight  effect  upon 


Egg  Trier  or  Fancy  Cake  Baker. 

silver,  but  nitre  and  silver  seldom  remai 

the  Publisher  is  indebted  to  the  courtesy  of  sev 

eral  dealers  in  New  York,  whose  kind  approval 

of  the  work  has  greatly  encouraged  its  issue 

8 


ong  enough  together  in  domestic  uses  to 
equire  any  particular  caution. 

Copper  and  brass  are  both  liable  to  be 
issolved  by  vinegar,  acid  fruits,  and 
>earlash.  Such  solutions  are  highly  poi- 
onous.  and  great  caution  should  be  used 
o  prevent  accidents  of  the  kind.  Ves- 
els  made  of  these  metals  are  generally 
inned,  that  is,  lined  with  a  thin  coating 
f  a  mixed  metal,  containing  both  tin 
nd  lead.  Neither  acids,  nor  any  thing 
ontaining  pearlash,  should  ever  be  suf- 
ered  to  remain  above  an  hour  in  vessels 
)f  this  kind,  as  the  tinning  is  dissolvable 
y  acids,  and  the  coating  is  seldom  per- 
ect  over  the  surface  of  the  copper  or 
rass. 


Muffin  Baker. 

The  utensils  made  of  what  is  called 
Dlock  tin  are  constructed  of  iron  plates 
coated  with  tin.  This  is  as  liable  to  be 
dissolved  as  the  tinning  of  copper  or  brass 
vessels,  but  iron  is  not  an  unwholesome 
substance,  if  even  a  portion  of  it  should 
be  dissolved  and  mixed  in  the  food.  Iron 
is  therefore  one  of  the  safest  metals  for 
the  •  construction  of  culinary  utensils ; 
and  the  objection  to  its  more  extensive 
use  only  rests  upon  its  liability  to  rust, 
so  that  it  requires  more  cleaning  and 
soon  decays.  Some  articles  of  food,  such 
as  quinces,  orange-peel,  artichokes,  &c., 
are  blackened  by  remaining  hi  iron  ves- 
sels, which  therefore  must  not  be  used 
for  them. 

Leaden  vessels  are  very  unwholesome, 
and  should  never  be  used  for  milk  and 
cream  if  it  be  ever  likely  to  stand  till  it 
become  sour.  They  are  unsafe  also  for 
the  purpose  of  keeping  salted  meats. 

The  best  kind  of  pottery  ware  is  ori- 
ental china,  because  the  glazing  is  a  per- 


118 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


feet  glass,  which  cannot  be  dissolved,  and 
the  whole  substance  is  so  compact  that 
liquid  cannot  penetrate  it.  Many  of  the 
English  pottery  wares  are  badly  glazed,, 
and  as  the  glazing  is  made  principally 
of  lead,  it  is  necessary  to  avoid  putting- 
vinegar  and  other  acids  into  them.  Acids 
and  greasy  substances  penetrate  into  un- 
glazed  wares,  excepting  the  strong  stone 
ware ;  or  into  those  of  which  the  glaz- 
ing is  cracked,  and  hence  give  a  bad  fla- 
vor to  any  thing  they  are  used  for  after- 
wards. They  are  quite  unfit,  therefore, 
for  keeping  pickles  or  salted  meats. 
Glass  vessels  are  infinitely  preferable  to 
any  pottery  ware  but  oriental  china,  and 
should  be  used  whenever  the  occasion 
admits  of  it. 

Wooden  vessels  are  very  proper  for 
keeping  many  articles  of  food,  and  should 
always  be  preferred  to  those  lined  with 
lead.  If  any  substance  has  fermented 
or  become  putrid  in  a  wooden  cask  or 
tub,  it  is  sure  to  taint  the  vessel  so  as  to 
produce  a  similar  effect  upon  any  thing 
that  may  be  put  into  it  in  future.  It  is 
useful  to  char  the  msides  of  these  wood- 
en vessels  before  they  are  used,  by  burn- 
ing wooden  shavings,  so  as  to  coat  the 
insides  with  a  crust  of  charcoal. 

As  whatever  contaminates  food  in  any 
way  must  be  sure,  from  the  repetition  of 
its  baneful  effects,  to  injure  the  health,  a 
due  precaution  with  respect  to  all  culi- 
nary vessels  is  necessary  for  its  more 
certain  preservation.  There  is  a  kind 
of  hollow  iron  ware  lined  with  enamel, 
which  is  superior  to  every  other  utensil 
for  sauces  or  preserves ;  indeed  it  is  pre- 
ferable for  every  purpose. 

A  kitchen  should  always  be  well  fur- 
nished ;  there  is  no  necessity  that  it  should 
be  profusely  so,  but  there  should  be  a  suffi- 
ciency of  every  thing  which  can  aid  in 
producing  the  dishes  preparing,  with  the 
success  which  is  so  essential  to  the  grati- 
fication of  the  palate.  A  good  workman 
cannot  work  well  with  bad  tools,  neither 


can  good  cooks  do  justice  to  their  profi- 
ciency, if  they  possess  not  the  necessary 
utensils  suitable  to  the  various  modes  of 
cooking.  And  when  this  important 
point  has  been  realized,  cleanliness  in 
every  article  used  should  be  scrupulously 
observed ;  no  utensil  should  be  suffered 
to  be  put  away  dirty ;  it  not  only  injures 
the  article  itself  materially,  to  say  nothing 
of  the  impropriety  of  the  habit,  but  pre- 
vents its  readiness  for  use  on  any  sudden 
occasion.  No  good  cook  or  servant 
would  be  guilty  of  such  an  act ;  those 
who  are.  do  so  either  from  laziness  or 
want  of  system,  or  a  nature  naturally 
dirty;  if  a  very  strong  hint  will  not 
suffice,  it  is  of  little  use  speaking  out. 
A  servant  who  is  inherently  dirty  or 
slovenly,  should  never  be  retained  ;  it  is 
better  and  easier  to  change  frequently 
until  the  mistress  is  suited,  however  un- 
pleasant frequent  changes  may  prove, 
than  Quixotically  attempt  to  cure  a  per- 
son of  this  description.  Cleanliness  is 
the  most  essential  ingredient  in  the  art 
of  cooking,  and  at  any  personal  sacrifice 
should  be  maintained  in  the  kitchen. 

The  fixtures  or  fittings  of  a  kitchen  de- 
pend upon  the  builder,  and  in  modern 
houses  sufficient  attention  is  paid  to  the 
situations  of  the  range,  dresser,  larder, 
&c.,  to  embody  convenience. 


In  furnishing  a  kitchen,  there  should 
be  every  thing  likely  to  be  required,  but 
not  one  article  more  than  is  wanted. 
Unnecessary  profusion  creates  a  litter  j 


CTTLINAUY   UTENSILS. 


119 


and  a  deficiency  too  often  sacrifices  the 
perfection  of  a  dish.  The  following  arti- 
cles, of  which  we  give  engravings,  are 
requisite. 


gets  hot  or  cold  gradually,  retains  the 
eat  longer,  cooks  better,  and  smokes  less 
mn  ordinary  griddles. 


The  Nursery  Milk  Wanner. 

This  is  a  very  useful  apparatus,  on  the 
principle  of  the  Bam  Marie,  or  Water 
Bath. 

It  consists  of  a  block-tin  saucepan  to 
hold  water,  and  a  smaller  one,  with  cover 
of  the  same  material  to  fit  within,  but 
not  to  reach  to  the  bottom  of  the  exter- 
nal saucepan.  This  effectually  prevents 
the  common  accident  of  burning  what  is 
intended  to  be  boiled;  for  the  reason 
that  the  heat  cannot  be  increased  beyonc 
boiling  or  212° ;  a  represents  the  inner 
.  and  &  the  external  saucepan ;  the  cover 
seen  at  the  top  will  fit  both  saucepans. 
A  Double  Floored  Griddle,  the  bes 


Double  Floored  Griddlo. 

fron  Griddle  in  use.  Very  thick  j  therefor 


Beefeteak  Maul. 

A  Beefsteak  Pounder  for  making  beef- 
teak  tender. 


Beefsteak  Pounder. 

Wooden  Moulds  for  moulding  butter. 


Butter  Moulds. 


For  working  butter  into  form,  similar 
to  Butter  Hands,  the 


Butter  Board  and  Knife. 


120 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


Biscuit  Mould  or  Block. 

The  pastry  is  rolled  into  this  and  forms 
half  the  biscuit  j  others  are  made  and  fas- 
tened together,  either  before  or  after 
being  baked. 


Tea  Bread  Knife. 

Tor  cutting  bread;  it  can  be  regula- 
ted by  screws  at  the  ends  to  cut  any  thick- 


Butter  Pats. 

A  mould  and  stamp  for  butter  by 
which  you  can  have  the  full  size  of  the 
stamp,  and  the  butter  any  thickness. 


Apple  Boaster. 

Tin  Apple  Roasters  are  often  made  with 
a  shelf,  making  two  divisions,  roasting 
double  the  quantity. 


Potato  Masher 


Knife  Washer. 


To  wash  Ivory,  Pearl,  or  other  han- 
dled knives  thoroughly,  without  allowing 
the  greasy  water  to  come  in  contact  with 
and  thereby  soil  or  stain  the  handles. 


CULINARY   UTENSILS. 


121 


Cheese  Toaster. 


Preserve  Pan  Enamelled. 


Etna. 

It  will  boil  a  pint  of  water  in  three 
minutes. 


#1 
fi'l 

oi 

Biscuit,  Cake  aud  Tartlet  Cutters. 


Cake  and  Vegetable  Cutters. 


Sponge  Cake  Pans. 


Queen  Cake,  or  Pound  Cake  Pans. 


Jelly  and  Vegetable  Moulds. 


Oblong  and  Bound  Jelly  Moulds. 


Jelly  and  Cake  Moulds  with  Cylinder. 


Sardine  Opener. 


122 


THE  PRACTICAL   HOTTSEKEEPEK. 


Smoked  Beef  and  Cabbage  Cutter, 


Champalgne  Opener. 


Enamelled  Porringer. 


Enamelled  Saucepan. 


Bain  Marie. 


Enamelled  Preserving  Kettle. 


Oyster  Knife,  for  Opening  Boasted  Oysters. 


Oyster  Broiler,  or  Toast  Gridiron. 


Corkscrews. 


CULINARY   UTENSILS. 


123 


Cucumber  and  Vegetable  Slicer. 

Saucepan  Digester.— The  great  impor- 
tance of  the  digester,  not  only  to  poor 
families,  but  to  the  public  in  general,  in 
producing  a  larger  quantity  of  wholesome 
and  nourishing  food,  by  a  much  cheaper 
method  than  has  ever  been  hitherto  ob- 
tained, is  a  matter  of  such  serious  and 
interesting  consideration,  that  it  cannot 
be  too  earnestly  recommended  to  those 
who  make  economy  in  the  support  of 
their  families  an  object  of  their  attention. 
The  chief,  and  indeed  the  only  thing 
necessary  to  be  done,  is  to  direct  a  proper 
mode  of  using  it  to  advantage ;  and  this 
mode  is  both  simple  and  easy.  Care 
must  be  taken  in  filling  the  digester,  to 
leave  room  enough  for  the  steam  to  pass 
off  through  the  valve  at  the  top  of  the 
cover.  This  may  be  done  by  filling  the 
digester  only  three  parts  full  of  water 
and  bruised  bones  or  meat,  which  it  is 
to  be  noticed  are  all  to  be  put  in  to- 
gether. It  must  then  be  placed  near  a 
slow  fire,  so  as  only  to  simmer,  and  this 
it  must  do  for  the  space  of  eight  or  ten 
hours.  After  this  has  been  done,  the 
soup  is  to  be  strained  through  a  hair 
sieve  or  cullender,  in  order  to  separate 
any  bits  of  bones.  The  soup  is  then  to 
be  put  into  the  digester  again,  and  after 
whatever  vegetables,  spices,  &c.,  are 
thought  necessary  are  added,  the  whole 
is  to  be  well  boiled  together  for  an  hour 
or  two,  and  it  will  then  be  filt  for  imme- 
diate use. 

Any  thing  that  is  to  be  warmed  and 
sent  to  table  a  second  time  should  be  put 
into  a  basin  or  jar,  placed  in  hot  water, 
which  is  not  permitted  to  come  to  the 
boiling  point.  If  allowed  to  boil,  the 
meat  will  harden,  or  the  sauce  will  be 


reduced  and  become  thick :  by  avoiding 
these  chances  the  flavor  will  be  preserved, 
and  the  viands  may  be  warmed  up  more* 
than  once  without  injury.  The  steam- 
apparatus  now  employed  in  most  kitchens 
is  admirably  adapted  to  this  purpose, 
since  the  heat  can  be  regulated  to  the 
required  temperature. 

A  spacious  movable  screen,  large 
enough  to  completely  cover  the  fire^  lined 
throughout  with*  tin,  and  having  shelves 
for  the  warming  of  plates  and  dishes, 
should  also  be  an  appendage  ;  and  there 
should  be  an  abundance  of  kitchen  uten- 
sils of  the  best  kind,  kept  in  their  pro- 
per places  and  strictly  clean.  Cleanli- 
ness is,  indeed,  of  the  first  importance, 
and  no  kitchen-maid  should  ever  put 
away  a  metal  saucepan  which  has  been 
used  for  any  other  purpose  than  merely 
boiling  pure  water,  without  scalding  it 
thoroughly  and  then  drying  it. 

Every  kitchen  should  be  provided  with 
a  clock  to  keep  the  cook  to  her  time ; 
also  with  a  large  and  a  small  marble  mor- 
tar for  the  pounding  of  meat,  with  chop- 
per, meat-saw,  various-sized  scoops  for 
vegetables,  .when  required  for  haricos 
&c.,  paste-cutters,  steak-tongs,  &c.,  and 
those  insignificant,  though  useful  little 
articles,  minute-glasses,  to  regulate  the 
boiling  of  an  egg ;  nor  should  a  epice- 
box,  containing  whole  pepper,  mace,  nut- 
megs, and  cinnamon,  be  forgotten;  to- 
gether with  various  dried  sweet  herbs. 
Scales,  with  weights  from  i  oz.  to  2  Ibs., 
should  be  placed  on  the  dresser,  and  the 
weights  carefully  kept  in  regular  order. 
A  set  of  tin  measures  with  small  spouts 
or  lips,  and  with  the  contents  distinctly 
marked  upon  them,  from  a  gallon  down 
to  half  a  gill,  will  also  be  found  very  con- 
venient. It  is  likewise  well  to  have  a 
set  of  wooden  measures,  from  a  bushel 
to  a  quarter  of  a  peck. 

Let  it  be  remembered,  that,  of  liquid 


measure — 


124: 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


Two  gills  are  half  a  pint. 
Two  pints  are  one  quart. 
Four  quarts  are  one  gallon. 

• 

Of  dry  measure — 

Half  a  gallon  Is  a  quarter  of  a  peck. 
One  gallon  is  half  a  peck. 
Two  gallons  are  one  peek. 
Four  gallons  are  half  a  bushel. 
Eight  gallons  are  one  bushel. 

About  twenty-five  drops  of  any  thin  liquid  will  fill 
a  common-sized  teaspoon. 

A  common  tumbler  holds  half  a  pint. 

Four  tablespoonfuls,  or  hall'  a  gill,  will  fill  a  com- 
mon wine-glass.  * 

Four  wine-glasses  will  fill  a  half-pint  or  common 
tumbler,  or  a  large  coffee-cup. 

A  quart  black  bottle  holds  in  reality  about  a  pint 
and  a  half. 

Of  flour,  butter,  sugar,  and  most  articles  used  in 
cakes  and  pastry,  a  quart  is  generally  about  equal 
in  quantity  to  a  pound  avoirdupois  (sixteen 
'ounces).  Avoirdupois  is  the  weight  designated 
throughout  this  book. 

Ten  eggs  generally  weigh  one  pound  before  they 
are  broken. 

A  tablespoonful  of  salt  or  brown  sugar  is  generally 
about  one  ounce.* 

Sieves,  of  various  descriptions,  are 
very  essential.  Every  utensil  for  cook- 
ery should  be  of  various  sizes,  so  as  to 
suit  the  quantity  of  which  the  dishes 
may  be  composed ;  -and  each  should  be 
kept  in  a  fixed  place,  as  well  as  washed 
nnd  dried  immediately  after  using.  The 
cook  should  also  be  charged  to  take  care 
of  jelly-bags,  tapes  for  the  collared 

*  Mrs.  Hale  gives  the  'following  table,  by  which 
persons  not  having  scales  and  weights  at  hand  may 
readily  measure  the  articles  wanted  to  form  any  re- 
ceipt, without  the  trouble  of  ^weighing.  Allowance 
to  be  made  for  an  extraordinary  dryncss  or  moisture 
of  the  article  weighed  or  measured. 


WEIGHT  AND  MEASURE. 

"Wheat  flour     ....  1  pound  is 

Indian  meal   ....  1  pound,  2  oz., 

Butter,  when  soft     .    .  1  pound  is     . 

Loaf  sugar  broken  .    .  1  pound  is 

"White  sugar,  powdered  1  pound,  1  oz., 

Best  brown  sugar    .    .  1  pound,  2  oz..  i 

E?ga 10  eggs  are    . 

Flour      ......  8  quarts  are     . 

Flourl  ......  4  pecks  are   .    , 


.  1  quart. 
js  1  quart. 
.  1  quart. 

.  1  quart, 
is  1  quart, 
s  1  quart. 
.  1  pound 

.  Ipeck. 
.  1  bushel. 


things,  &c.,  which,  if  not  perfectly  scald- 
ed and  kept  dry,  give  an  unpleasant  fla- 
vor when  next  used. 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 

LIEBIG,  in  his  work  on ':  The  Chemistry 
of  Food,"  says:  "Among  all  the  arts 
known  to  man,  there  is  none  that  enjoys 
a  juster  appreciation,  and  the  products 
of  which  are  more  universally  admired, 
than  that  concerned  in  the  preparation 
of  our  food.  Led  by  an  instinct  which 
has  almost  reached  the  dignity  of  con- 
scious knowledge,  and  by  the  sense  of 
taste  which  protects  the  health,  the  ex- 
perienced cook,  with  respect  to  the 
choice,  admixture,  and  preparation  of 
food,  has  made  acquisitions  surpassing  all 
that  chemical  and  physiological  science 
has  done  in  regard  to  the  doctrine  or 
theory  of  nutrition." 

"  I  do  not  yet  despair,"  says  another 
writer,  "of  seeing  the  day  when  the 
culinary  science,  like  others,  will  have 
its  qualified  professors."  **"The  art  of 
cookery,"  another  observes,  "  is  the 
analeptic  part  of  the  art  of  physic."  Dr. 
Mandeville  says,  "  Physicians  should  be 
good  cooks,  at  least  in  theory." 

Dr.  Arbuthnot  says  —  "  The  choice 
and  measure  of  the  materials  of  which 
our  body  is  composed — of  what  we  take 
daily  by  pounds,  is,  at  least,  of  as  much 
mportance  as  what  we  take  seldom  aftd 
only  by  grains'  and  spoonfuls.  Count 
Rumford  remarks :  "  In  what  'art  or 
cience  coiHd  improvements  be  made 
that  would  more  powerfully  contribute 
:o  increase  the  comforts  and  enjoyments 
of  mankind  ?» 

A  quaint  writer  says  truly :  "  The 
stomach  is  every  man's  master ; "  and 
Armstrong  attributes  to  the  good  cook 
the  useful  knowledge : 


COOKERY. 


125 


"How  best  the  fickle  fabric  to  support 
Of  mortal  man  ;  in  healthful  body,  how 
A  healthful  mind  the  longest  to  maintain." 

To  prevent  diseases  is  surely  better 
than  to  cure  them.  The  French  enjoy  a 
happy  equilibrium  of  spirits  more  con- 
stantly than  any  other  nation ;  Dr. 
Kitchiner  says,  it  is  because  "  their  elas- 
tic stomachs,  unimpaired  by  spirituous 
liquors,  digest  vigorously  the  food  they 
render  easily  assimilable  by  cooking  it 
sufficiently;  doing  half  the  work  of 
digestion  by  fire  and  water,  till 

"  The  tender  morsels  on  the  palate  melt, 
And  all  the  force  of  cookery  is  felt." 

The  cardinal  virtues  of  cookery  are 
cleanliness,  frugality,  nourishment,  and 
palatableness. 

The  term  "  gourmand  "  or  "  epicure," 
says  a  distinguished  writer  on  the  sub- 
ject, is  not  synonymous  with  "  glutton," 
who  eats  as  long  as  he  can  sit,  like  the 
great  eater  of  Kent,  whom  Fuller  places 
among  his  worthies ;  telling  us  "  he  ate 
thirty  dozen  pigeons  at  one  meal ;  at  an- 
other, four  score  rabbits,  and  eighteen 
yards  of  black  pudding,  London  meas- 
ure :"  nor  does  the  term  epicure  suit  a 
fastidious  appetite  only  excited  by  dain- 
ties, such  as  the  brains  of  peacocks  or 
parrots,  the  tongues  of  thrushes  or 
nightingales,  &c.  It  mean's  one  who 
has  good  sense  and  good  taste  enough  to 
relish  food  cooked  according  to  scientific 
principles ;  so  prepared  that  the  palate 
be  not  offended,  and  that  it  be  rendered 
easy  of  digestion.  Thus  the  temperate 
man  is  the  greatest  epicure ;  for  the  per- 
fection of  enjoyment  depends  on  the  per- 
fection of  the  faculties  of  mind  and  body. 

The  philosopher,  Descartes,  when  a 
cavilling  Marquis  said :  "  What,  do  you 
philosophers  eat  dainties  ?"  replied,  "  Do 
you  think  Providence  made  good  things 
only  for  fools  !"  Boswell  says,  Dr.  John- 
son  had  nice  discernment  in  the  science 
of  cookery,  and  talked  of  good  eating 
with  uncommon  satisfaction. 


Boileau  says,  the  Norman  conqueror 
William,  bestowed  portions  of  land  on 
lis  favorite  chief  cook.  The  Doomsday 
Book  records  a  grant  to  Kobert  Argyl- 
.on.  for  the  service  of  {t  making  in  an 
earthen  pot,  in  the  kitchen  of  our  lord 
the  king,  a  mess  called  '  De  la  groute,' " 

i  kind  of  plum-porriclge — on  the  day 
of  the  coronation.  This  dish  was  served 
to  king  George  IV.,  at  his  coronation. 

The  luxury  of  different  ages  has  fur- 
nished many  curiosities  in  cookery. 
Among  the  ancients,  a  porpus  and  wild 
boar  were  highly  esteemed,  and  the  swan 
was  a  dish  of  state ;  the  crane  was  a 
dainty  in  William  the  Conqueror's  time ; 
and  seals,  curlews,  herons,  bitterns,  and 
the  peacock — this  last,  4'  the  food  of  lovers 
and  the  meat  of  lords  " — were  fashionable 
at  baronial  entertainments.  The  peacock 
was  stuffed  with  spices  and  sweet  herbs, 
roasted  and  served  whole ;  after  it  was 
dressed,  being  covered  with  the  skin  and 
feathers,  the  tail  spread,  and  the  beak 
and  comb  gilt.  Some  were  covered  with 
leaf-gold.  These  birds  adorned  English 
tables  till  the  beginning  of  the  seven- 
teenth century. 

The  pie,  full  of  living  birds,  was  a  fa- 
vorite dish,  and  a  common  joke  at  old 
English  feasts.  The  dwarf,  Jeffrey  Hud- 
son, was  served  up  in  a  cold  pie  about 
1630.  before  King  Charles,  at  the  Duke 
of  Buckingham's  table.  The  baron  of 
beef  was  a  favorite  of  old  English  hos- 
pitality. Don  Anthony,  of  Guevara, 
chronicler  to  Charles  V.,  says,  he  saw  at 
a  feast,  "  a  horse  roasted,  a  cat  in  jelly, 
lyzard  in  hot  broth,  and  frogges  fried,  &c." 

The  Roman  sauces  described  by  Coelus 
Apicius,  a  celebrated  Roman .  epicure, 
who  wrote  a  curious  cookery  book  in 
Latin,  and  invented  a  soup  made  of  the 
livers  of  a  peculiar  fish  which  sometimes 
sold  at  the  rate  of  sixty  dollars  the 
pound— would  be  hardly  more  palatable 
to  us  than  the  black  broth  of  the  Spar- 
tans which  caused  the  citizens  of  Sybaris 


126 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


to  wonder  no  longer  why  the  Spartans 
were  so  fearless  of  death.  Yet  one  of 
the  receipts  of  Apicius  required  the  death 
of  three  or  four  dozen  animals.  The  Es- 
quimaux eat  raw  fish,  and  melted  fat  is 
a  delicacy  among  Arctic  natives.  Many 
of  the  northern  Indians  *eat  the  intes- 
tines and  blood.  Tartars  feed  on  dogs, 
and  some  of  the  natives  of  Australia, 
New  Holland,  and  other  countries,  were 
wont  to  regale  themselves  upon  ants  and 
worms,  while  mice  were  an  African  deli- 
cacy. Norwegians  mixed  the  powdered 
bark  of  trees  with  meal  to  bake  in  cakes. 

La  Chapelle's  Nouveau  Cuisinier,  pub- 
lished in  1748,  mentions  the  cooking  of 
a  turkey  in  the  shape  of  a  football  or  a 
hedgehog ;  a  shoulder  of  mutton  in  that 
of  a  beehive  ;  an  entree  of  pigeons  in  the 
form  of  a  spider  or  a  frog.  Such  whim- 
sical harlequinade  has  now  become  old- 
fashioned,  though  the  taste  for  decora- 
tion remains. 

By  a  strange  misconception,  cookery 
has  in  all  ages  been  intrusted  to  ignorant 
persons,  who  practise  it  without  refer- 
ence to  those  general  principles  which 
connect  it  with  chemistry  as  much  as- 
other  arts  are  allied  to  that  science.  Yet 
in  the  days  of  the  patriarchs,  the  prov- 
ince of  the  cook,  it  seems,  was  not  a  ser- 
vile one.  A  princess  would  not  disdain  to 
dress  the  lamb  her  lord  had  killed  and 
brought  from  the  flock.  In  Homer's 
time  kings  and  princes  killed  their  own 
cattle  and  cooked  the  flesh. 

Perhaps  the  march  of  improvement 
may  induce  professors  of  gastronomy  to 
elevate  their  calling  by  connecting  its 
practice  with  the  principles  of  science. 
The  brewers  and  distillers  of  the  present 
day  are  philosophical  chemists,  under- 
standing the  principles  on  which  they 
act,  and  their  processes  are  more  certain, 
economical,  and  manageable  than  for- 
merly ;  why  may  not  cooks  be  philoso- 
phers ?  Why  may  not  equal  advantages 
be  derived  from  the  application  of  sci- 


ence to  those  arts  which  relate  to  the 
management  of  solid  sustenance  ? 

It  has  been  said  that  the  best  books 
on  cookery  have  been  written  by  medi- 
cal men. 


CHAPTER  XXV. 

A   GL08SAET    OF     FOREIGN     TERMS    USED 
IN    COOKERY. 

FRENCH  cookery  is  of  so  diverse  a  na- 
ture that  many  volumes  have  already 
been  written  upon  the  subject ;  and  new 
modes  of  dressing  the  same  things  are  so 
constantly  being  invented,  that  we  must 
content  ourselves  with  merely  giving  a 
few  explanations  of  the  terms  adopted  by 
most  of  our  professed  cooks. 

Atelets.     Small  silver  skewers. 

Baba.    A  French  sweet  yeast  cake. 

Bain  Marie.  A  flat  vessel  containing 
boiling  water,  intended  to  hold  also  other 
saucepans  for  the  purpose  either  of  cook- 
ing or  keeping  their  contents  hot.  The 
Bain  Marie  is  called  in  the  English  kitch- 
en Beau  Mere  Pan.  This  term  is  old, 
having  its  origin  with  the  alchymists, 
who,  finding  that  sea- water  boiled  at  a 
high  temperature,  and  did  not  evaporate  so 
quickly,  used  a  pan  containing  sea-water ; 
hence  the  term :  Bain  Marie ;  or,  Sea- 
Water  Bath. 

Bard. — A  slice  of  thin  bacon  fat,  used 
for  covering  the  breasts  of  birds,  the 
back  of  a  hare,  or  any  substance  that  re- 
quires the  assistance  of  fat  where  larding 
is  not  preferred. 

Beignet)  or  Fritter. — Anything  that 
is  enveloped  in  a  casing  of  batter  or 
egg,  and  fried.  Thus  we  have  fritters  of 
fruit,  vegetables,  cream,  &c. 

Blanc. — A  white  broth  used  to  im- 
prove the  color  of  chickens,  lamb,  &c. 

Blanch. — To  set  anything  on  the  fire  in 


FOREIGN   TERMS. 


127 


cold  water,  and  when  it  boils  strain  it 
off  and  plunge  it  into  cold  water. 

Blanquettes.  —  A  kind  of  fricassee, 
made  of  slices  of  white  meat  cut  thin, 
and  warmed  in  white  sauce  thickened 
with  the  yolk  of  eggs. 

Bouilli. — Beef  very  much  boiled  and 
served  with  sauce. 

Bouillon.  —  The  common  soup  of 
France. 

Bouquet. — A  bunch  of  parsley  and 
scallions  tied  up  to  put  in  soups,  &c. 

Bouquet  garni,  or  Assaisonne.  The 
same,  with  the  addition  of  cloves  or  aro- 
matic herbs. 

Bourguignote. — A  ragout  of  truffles. 
Braise. — This  is  a  method  of  dress- 
ing meat,  poultry.  &c.,  without  evapora- 
tion. It  is  done  by  lining  a  braising  pan 
with  thin  slices  of  bacon,  beef,  or  veal ; 
upon  which  place  whatever  you  may  in 
tend  to  braise;  and  also  add  carrots, 
onions,  lemons,  bay  leaf,  herbs,  pepper, 
and  salt. 

Brioche. — A  French  yeast  cake. 
Buisson  (en). — A  fanciful  mode    of 
dressing  up  pastry,  &c. 

Callipanh. — The  glutinous  meat  of  the 
upper  shell  of  a  turtle. 

Callipee. — The  glutinous  meat  of  th< 
under  shell  of  a  turtle. 

Caramel.— Sugar  boiled  down  untl 
the  water  is  evaporated,  and  then  formed 
in  ornamental  devices  for  decorating 
gateaux-baskets,  &c.  '  It  is  also  used  fo 
coloring  gravies  when  reduced  almost  t( 
the  burning  point,  and  then  dissolved  in 
water.  Its  use  is  not  much  to  the  credi 
of  the  cook. 

Capilotade. — A  hash  of  poultry. 
Civet. — A  hash  of  game  or  wild  fowl. 
Compeigne. — A  French   sweet   yeas 
cake,  with  fruit,  &c. 

Compotier. — A  dish  in  the  dessert  ser 
vice  purposely  for  the  compote. 

Couronne  (en). — To   serve    any  pre- 
scribed articles  on  a  dish  in  the  form  of 
crown. 


Court  or  short,  to  stew.— The  reduction 
f  a  sauce  until  it  becomes  very  thick. 

Croutons. — Bread  cut  in  various  shapes 
nd  fried  lightly  in  butter  or  oil. 

Casserole. — A    rice-crust  moulded  in 
he  form  of  a  pie;  when  baked,  filled 
with  a  mince  or  puree  of  game,  or  witt 
llanquette  of   white  meat.     Also  a 
tewpan. 

Compote. — Stewed  fruits  served  with 
yrup.  There  are  also  compotes  of 
igeons  and  other  small  birds. 

Consomme  is  a  strong  clear  gravy, 
Irawn  from  the  long  stewing  of  any 
tind  of  meat,  to  be  either  used  as  broth, 
>r  made  into  soups  and  sauces. 

Coulis,  or  cullis,  is  a  rich  brown  gravy  *. 
commonly  used  for  the  purpose  of  color- 
ng  as  well  as  thickening  and  flavoring 
many  sorts  of  soups  and  sauces.  It  is 
made  'in  various  ways,  chiefly  upon  a 
bundation  of  ham  and  veal,  slices  of 
which  are  put  into*  a  closely  covered 
stewpan,  with  only  a  small  quantity  of 
water,  and  boiled  over  a  brisk  fire  until 
the  whole  becomes  brown  and  thick.  See 
Sauces. 

Croquettes.— A  mince  of  either  fish, 
meat,  or  poultry,  made  very  savory,  with 

small  quantity  of  sauce,  formed  into 
shapes  of  any  kind,  rolled  in  egg  and 
bread-crumbs,  and  fried  crisp. 

Croustades,  or  Dresden  patties,  made 
of  paste  or  bread  baked  in  small  moulds, 
and  filled  with  mince  of  any  kind. 

Dorez.—To  wash  pastry,  &c.,  with 
yolk  of  egg  well  beaten. 

Dorure.— Yolks  of  eggs  well  beaten. 

uEn  papillate. "  —White  paper  is 
greased  with  oil  or  butter,  and  then 
folded  over  a  cutlet  or  small  fish,  fasten- 
ing it  by  screwing  the  paper  at  the 


Entremets.— Small  ornamental  dishes 
served  in  the  second  and  third  courses. 

Entree.— A  corner  dish  for  the  first 
course.  In  large  dinners  the  side  dishes 
are  called  Jlancs. 


128 


THE  PRACTICAL  .HOUSEKEEPER. 


.  —  An    expensive,    highly 
flavored,  mixed  ragout. 

Flan. — A  French  custard. 

Farce. — Forcemeat. 

Faggot.— A  small  bunch  of  parsley 
and  thyme  and  a  bay-leaf  tied  up. 

Fricandeaux  —  may  be  made  of  any 
boned  piece  of  veal,  in  pieces  of  not  more 
than  two  or  three  Ibs.  weight,  chiefly  cut 
from  that  portion  of  the  fillet  which 
we  have  described  as  the  thick  part. 
It  is  a  frequent  dish  as  an  entree  at 
good  tables,  and  requires  great  care  to 
serve  in  perfection. 

Gateau. — A  cake  or  pudding. 

Glaze  (to). — To  reduce  sauces  to  a 
jelly,  that  they  will  adhere  to  the  meal. 

Glace  or  Glaze. — Stock  boiled  down 
to  a  consistency,  and  used  to  improve 
the  appearance  of  all  braised  dishes ;  it 
should  be  warmed  hi  the  bain-marie,  and 
applied  with  a  brush. 

Glaze,  Glace  Ice,  is  composed  of  white 
of  egg  beaten  with  powdered  sugar. 

Godiveau. — A  common  veal  forcemeat. 

Gras  (an),  —  means  that  the  article 
is  dressed  with  meat  gravy. 

Gratin. — A  layer  of  any  article  in- 
tended for  this  purpose  is  spread  over  a 
dish  that  will  bear  the  fire,  and  is  placed 
on  a  stove  or  hot  ashes  until  it  burns. 

Hors  d'auvre. — A  small  dish  served 
during  the  first  course. 
s  Lard  (to).— To  stick  bacon,  or  what- 
ever meat  may  be  named,  into  poultry, 
meat,  &c.  It  is  accomplished  with  a  lard- 
ing pin,  one  end  of  which  is  square  and. 
one  hollow.  The  lardon  is  put  into  this 
hollow,  the  point  is  then  inserted  in  the 
meat,  and  on  being  drawn  through  leaves 
the  bacon  or  lardon  standing  in  its  pro- 
per place.  'It  requires  practice  to  do 
this  well. 

Lardon.— The  pieces  into  which  bacon 
or  other  meats  are  cut  for  the  purpose 
of  lardir.g. 

Liaison.— A  finish  with  yolks  of  eggs 
and  cream  for  ragouts  and  sauces. 


Madeleines. — Cakes  made  of  the  samo 
composition  as  pound  cakes. 

Maigre  (au). — Soups,  &c.,  dressed 
without  meat. 

Mask. — To  cover  completely. 

Marinade.  —  A  liquor  prepared  foi 
boiling  or  stewing  fish  or  meat  in  :  it  ia 
sometimes  used  cold. 

Meringue. — A  very  light  preparation, 
made  of  sugar  and  whites  of  eggs  beaten 
to  snow. 

Matelote. — A  rich  stew  of  fish  with 
wine. 

Miroton  consists  of  small  slices  of  meat 
cut  thin,  and  not  larger  than  a  crown- 
piece,  and  made  into  various  sorts  of 
ragouts ;  and  dished  up  in  a  circular  form. 

Nouilles. — An  Italian  paste  resembling 
macaroni,  but  flat  instead  of  being  in  pipes. 

Panada. — Bread  soaked  in  milk,  used 
principally  for  quenelles  and  fine  farces. 

Passer.— To  fry  lightly. 

Pate. — A  raised  crust  pie. 

Poelee. — A  light  braise  for  white  meats ; 
the  difference  between  this  and  the  braise 
is  that  in  the  former,  the  meat,  or  what- 
ever it  may  be,  need  not  be  so  much  dona 
as  the  latter. 

Potane. — A  term  for  soup. 

The  Pot-au-feu  is  truly  the  foundation 
of  all  good  cookery,  and  of  that  we  shall 
treat  rather  largely  in  our  chapters  on 
soups  and  sauces. 

Puree. — A  culinary  operation  which 
should  be  carefully  attended  to,  and 
which,  although  known  for  preparing 
potted  meats  and  fish,  is  seldom  employ- 
ed by  common  cooks  in  any  thing  but 
pea-soup.  It  consists  in  either  pounding 
the  meat  or  fish  in  a  mortar  until  it  be- 
comes a  paste,  or  in  stewing  roots  or 
pulse  in  boiling  water  until  they  are 
softened  into  a  thick  pulp,  when  they 
are  passed,  first  through  a  colander,  or 
through  a  puree  presser,  and  afterwards 
through  a  wire  or  hair  sieve,  and 
being  thinned  with  broth,  may  be  form- 
ed into  soups  of  various  sorts. 


FOREIGN   TERMS. CONDIMENTS. 


129 


Quenelles  and  Godiveaux  are  different 
sorts  of  forcemeat,  composed  of  meat  or 
fish,  with  bread  and  yolk  of  egg,  and  fat 
of  some  kind ;  seasoned  in  various  ways, 
and  either  spread  upon  rolled  meat,  or 
formed  into  balls  and  fried  as  garnish  to 
entrees,  or  served  separately  as  entrees. 

To  make  Quenelles. — When  the  force- 
meat is  made,  take  two  tablespoons,  fill 
one  with  the  meat,  dip  a  knife  in  hot  water, 
with  which  smooth  it  over ;  then  dip  the 
other  spoon  into  boiling  water,  and  with 
it  remove  the  meat  from  the  first  spoon, 
and  slip  it  into  a  buttered  stewpan ;  so 
on  until  you  have  the  number  you  want : 
then  cover  them  with  stock,  and  boil 
them  about  ten  minutes,  or  until  firm, 
and  they  are  fit  for  use.  For  small 
quenelles  use  teaspoons. 

Rissole. — A  mince  of  meat  or  fish,  en- 
closed in  paste,  or  made  up  into  shapes 
or  balls  in  the  manner  of  minced  collops, 
and  used  either  as  side-dishes,  or  as  a 
garnish  for  stews  or  hashes,  now  more 
elegantly  termed  fricassees  and  ragouts. 

Roux. — A  thickening  for  white  soups 
or  gravy,  made  of  flour  and  butter. 

Salmis. — A  hash  made  of  game,  which 
is  cut  up  when  only  half  roasted ;  where- 
as a  hash  is  made  from  dressed  game. 
Sauter. — To  fry  very  lightly. 
Sabotiere  or  Saubetiire. — A  pewter  or 
tin  vessel  in  which  are  placed  the  moulds 
containing  whatever  is   intended  to  be 
frozen. 

Tourner  or  turn. — To  stir  a  sauce 
also  to  pare  and  cut  roots,  vegetables 
and  fruits  very  neatly. 

Tamfa,  or  u  tammy,"  a  strainer  of  thin 
woollen  canvas,  or  silk,  used  for  straining 
soups  and  sauces. 

Tourte.—K  kind  of  tart  baked  in  a 
shallow  tin. 

Vanner. — To  take  up  sauce  or  am 
other  liquid  in  a  spoon  and  turn  it  ove: 
very  quickly. 

Veloute. — For  heightening  the  flavor 
of  soups,  made  dishes,  &c. 


Vol-au-vent. — An  extremely  light  puff 
raste,  in  which  are  enclosed  minces  of 
weetbread,  poultry,  game,  &c. 


CHAPTER  XXVI. 

CONDIMENTS. 

THERE  is  one  class  of  materials  in  con- 
tant  use   in  the  kitchen: — the  condi- 
ments ;  without  these,  soups,  sauces,  and 
,11  made  dishes,  would  be  insipid ;  and 
the  judicious  application  of  them  is  es- 
sential. 

If  all  kinds  of  condiments  were  of  the 
same  quality— that  is,  if  all  salt,  pepper, 
and  mustard,  &c.,  were  alike,  receipts 
might  be  given  as  in  a  Pharmacopoeia, 
with  distinct  measures  for  each ;  but  as 
nothing  differs  so  much  as  these  simple 
ondiments,  everything  must  be  left  to 
the  palate  of  the  cook,  and  on  him  or 
her  alone  depends  the  flavor  of  the  ali- 
mentary substances  partaken  of. 

Of  all  condiments,  that  in  most  gene- 
ral use  is  SALT  ;  the  health  of  every  indi- 
vidual depends  upon  it,  and  it  is  as  much 
required  as  food  or  drink.  Even  on 
those  continents  far  away  from  the 
shores  washed  by  the  briny  ocean,  we 
find  it  in  springs,  and  in  crystal  globules 
encrusting  the  earth. 

It  is  chemically  known  as  chloride  of 
sodium,  being  a  combination  of  chlorine 
and  sodium.  Its  use  as  an  antiseptic, 
and  as  a  condiment,  is  too  well  known  to 
be  repeated  here. 

Bock  Salt  is  the  unpurified  salt,  as  dug 
from  the  mines.  This  is  purified  by  boil- 
ing, &c.,  and  crystallized  by  heat. 

Bay  Salt  is  the  coarse  large  crystal 
salt,  taking  its  name  from  the  salt  that 
formerly  was  made  in  pits  by  the  over- 
flow or  letting  in  of  the  sea  at  the  head 
of  Bays,  and  which  was  evaporated  by 
the  heat  of  the  sun.  Almost  all  the  fish 


130 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


cured  in  France  at  the  present  day  is  done 
by  this  kind  of  salt,  the  duty  upon  foreign 
salt  being  so  high. 

PEPPER,  so  extensively  used  at  pres- 
ent in  Europe,  may  be  said  to  be  a  mod- 
ern invention.  Before  the  introduction 
of  pepper,  many  plants,  such  as  saffron, 
&c.,  were  used,  until  this  West  Indian 
fruit  became  more  general  and  easy 
to  obtain.*  The  plant  is  a  climbing  one 
(piper  nigrum,}  and  exceedingly  pretty 
when  in  fruit.  The  berry  is  gathered 
with  the  skin  or  pulp  around  the  stone, 
and  that  which  is  intended  for  black  pep- 
per is  allowed  to  remain  thus,  while  for 
white  pepper  it  is  blanched  and  rubbed 
until  the  skin  comes  off.  In  all  dark 
sauces  use  the  black  pepper. 

LONG  PEPPER,  the  fruit  of  the  piper 
longum,  is  a  plant  very  similar  to  the  for<- 
mer,  and,  if  possible,  it  has  a  more  aro- 
matic flavor  than  the  black  pepper. 

I  doubt  if  pepper  was  known  to  the 
Romans.  If  so,  it  would  have  been 
known  in  Egypt,  where  we  find  no  trace 
of  it,  although  some  authors  have  consid- 
ered it  as  the  ammonium  of  the  an- 
cients. 

ALLSPICE,  or,  as  it  was  formerly  called, 
Pimenta,  is  another  of  those  productions 
of  the  climes  near  the  Equator,  which 
has  come  much  into  use  by  Europeans. 
It  is  the  fruit  of  the  pimento,  vulgar  is. 
That  which  is  the  freshest  is  the  best ; 
as  the  aromatic  oil  which  it  contains  is 
not  dissipated  by  keeping.  The  essential 
oil  it  contains  can  be  used  in  very  small 
quantities  in  cookery,  but  should  not  be 
subjected  to  long  boiling,  or  it  loses  its 
flavor. 

*  It  is  a  singular  circumstance,  that  this  very 
email  fruit  should  be  the  cause  of  England's  possess- 
ing one  of  the  largest  portions  of  her  dominions. 
In  the  reign  of  Elizabeth,  and  during  the  war  with 
Spain,  pepper,  which  had  then  become  an  article  of 
necessity,  rose  to  an  extravagant  price,  and  to  ob- 
tain it  cheaper,  the  Queen  granted  Letters  Patent 
to  certain  merchants  to  trade  to  the  East  Indies, 
which  was  tho  origin  of  the  present  East  India 
Company. 


GINGER  is  the  root  of  a  plant,  a  na- 
tive of  the  East  Indies  and  Brazils,  and 
also  naturalized  in  the  "West  India 
[slands%  The  plant  grows  in  moist  places, 
and  is  of  a  reed-like  form,  bearing  a  yel- 
ow  flower.  The  root,  when  fresh,  should 
DC  of  a  light  green,  solid  and  heavy.  A 
spongy  or  woolly  root  should  be  avoided. 
The  virtues  of  ginger  chiefly  consist  in  a 
volatile  oil  which  it  possesses.  This  is 
best  obtained  by  bruising  the  root,  and 
making  an  infusion  in  spirits  of  wine  or 
boiling  water  in  a  closed  bottle ;  or,  if 
thinly  sliced  and  infused  in  vinegar,  it  is 
pleasant  in  a  salad.  It  is  usually  em- 
ployed in  cookery  by  having  the  root 
desiccated  by  the  heat  of  the  sun  until 
perfectly  dry  and  hard,  and  then  pow- 
dered till  its  aromatic  oil  is  lost.  It 
should  be  more  frequently  used  in  cook- 
ry,  and  as  a  condiment  as  well  as  for 
dessert.  ^ 

CLOVES  are  the  buds  of  a  flower,  not 
arrived  at  maturity,  of  an  East  Indian 
tree,  called  caryophillus  aromaticus. 
This,  in  common  with  many  other  buds 
of  flowers  of  various  kinds,  contains  a 
large  quantity  of  essential  oil.  It  has  a 
very  pungent,  aromatic  smell.  Its  na- 
ture is  stimulating.  It  should  not  be 
boiled  too  long,  or  its  flavor  is  lost  in 
evaporation. 

NUTMEG  is  the  interior  of  a  fruit  be- 
longing to  a  tree,  a  native  of  the  Islands 
of  the  Eastern  Archipelago,  called  Banda, 
and  known  in  botany  as  the  myristica 
moscTiata.  It  is  strongly  aromatic,  and 
very  volatile,  and  considered  agreeable. 
It  is  used  in  powder,  and  not  subjected  to 
much  heat,  which  would  cause  it  to  lose 
its  qualities. 

MACE. — This  is  the  skin  which  covers 
the  shell  containing  the  nutmeg.  It  is 
cut  into  small  pieces  and  dried.  This  is 
more  frequently  used  in  cookery  than 
the  nutmeg,  as  its  essential  oil  and  aro- 
matic flavor  are  not  so  soon  evaporated. 

CAYENNE  is  the  dried  pod  of  a  well- 


CONDIMENTS. 


131 


known  plant,  the  capsicum,  now  so  often 
reared  in  hot-houses.  It  is  a  native  of 
the  East  and  West  Indies,  and  South 
America.  It  is  of  a  very  pungent  nature, 
and  a  strongly  acrid  flavor.  The  best  is 
of  an  orange  color.  There  are  several 
kinds  of  capsicums ;  the  capsicum  annuum 
or  annual  capsicum ;  the  capsicum  gros- 
sum,  or  hell  pepper;  and  the  capsicum 
cerasiforme,  or  cherry  pepper.  The  pods 
of  these  are  frequently  pickled.  The  es- 
sence of  cayenne,  by  infusing  in  alcohol, 
is  a  very  excellent  seasoning.  - 

C  INNAMON  is  the  under-bark  of  a  tree, 
the  laurus  cinnamomum:  a  species  of  bay, 
with  leaves  like  laurel,  found  in  many 
East  India  Islands,  but  chiefly  in  Ceylon. 
It  possesses  a  very  fine  aromatic  flavor 
and  smell.  The  essential  oil,  when  ex- 
tracted, is  better  to  use  than  the  bark 
itself. 

This  tree  bears  a  fruit  similar  in  shape 
to  the  acorn,  but  smaller.  It  has  neither 
smell  nor  taste ;  but,  boiled  in  water, 
yields  an  oil  which,  on  becoming  cold,  is 
as  hard  as  tallow :  it  is  used  as  an  oint- 
ment, and  also  to  burn.  The  outside  of 
the  root  of  this  tree  yields  camphor  and 
oil  of  camphor. 

C  ASS  i  A  is  also  a  bark  of  a  similar  kind 
of  tree  to  the  cinnamon ;  the  laurus  cas- 
sia. It  does  not  contain  so  much  flavor 
as  cinnamon ;  but  the  aromatic  qualities 
are  very  similar.  Its  oil  is  often  sold  for 
that  of  cinnamon. 

CASSIA  BUDS  are  the  pods  of  the  seed 
of  the  cinnamon  tree.  They  contain  an 
oil  equal  in  flavor  and  pungency  to  the 
cinnamon.  They  are  not  often  used  in 
cookery,  their  value  not  being  generally 
known. 

MUSTARD  is  the  powder  of  the  seed  of 
the  plant,  the  sinapis  nigra.  It  grows 
wild  in  many  places,  and  can  be  cultivat 
ed  in  almost  any  soil.  It  is  of  a  strong 
pungent  nature,  and  is  difficult  to  concen 
trate.  It  should  be  mixed  with  cold 
water  and  salt.  It  derives  its  name  from 


tie  French  moutarde,  who  derive  it  from 
he  Latin  of  multum  ardet,  which  be- 
ame  corrupted  into  moult  arde.  In 
ranee  they  prepare  it  in  a  variety  of 
ways.  Mustard  is  a  condiment  easily 
dulterated;  and  particular  care  should 
>e  used  in  its  selection. 

IOXS,  a  bulbous  root,  so  much  used 
n  cookery,  is  a  native  of  this  country. 
5y  some  it  is  eaten  in  the  raw  state ;  and 
f  partaken  of  freely,  its  effects  pervade 
,he  whole  system,  and  the  person  who 
uses  them  may  be  known  at  some  dis- 
ance,  from  the  peculiar  odor  which  be- 
ongs  to  the  root  Its  moderate  use  is 
wholesome.  It  is  also  good  against 
many  diseases  of  the  skin;  but  should 
never  be  eaten  too  freely  by  weak  stom- 
achs. There  are  several  sorts.  The  com- 
mon, called  the  allium  cepa;  the  GAR- 
LIO,  allium  stamum  ;  the  SHALOT,  allium 
iscalonicum  ;  the  LEEK,  the  allium  por- 
um;  the  ROCAMBOLE,  the  allium  scordo- 
prasum;  the  CHIVE,  the  allium  chosno- 
prasum.  The  manner  of  using  them  is 
described  briefly  in  the  various  receipts. 

Onions  have  been  used  in  cookery  from 
a  very  early  period;  and  in  Spain  and 
Portugal  form  the  principal  food  of  the 
lower  classes — being,  from  the  nature  of 
the  climate,  much  milder  than  in  this 
country. 

The  next  articles  among  the  condi- 
ments are  the  herbs;  among  these, 
MAEJOEAM  is  that  most  in  use ;  it  is  an 
herb  which  contains  a  large  quantity  of 
what  may  be  called  essential  oil,  which  is 
extracted  in  cooking,  and  imparts  its 
flavor  to  the  viands  in  which  it  may  be 
used.  There  are  several  kinds  of  mar- 
joram hi  use,  but  that  known  as  the  pot 
marjoram,  origanum  onites,  when  well 
cultivated,  is  the  best  for  general  use; 
there  is  the  sweet  marjoram,  origanum 
marjorana  ;  the  winter  sweet  marjoram, 
origanum  heracloticum  ;  and  the  com- 
mon marjoram,  origanum  vulgare.  The 
essence  of  this  herb  may  be  used  in 


132 


THE  PRACTICAL  HOUSEKEEPER 


cookery;  the  more  common  plan  is  to 
dry  it  for  use,  but  it  should  be  used  fresh 
when  it  can  be  procured. 

SAVOEY.— There  are  two  kinds,  the 
winter  and  summer  ;  the  latter  contains 
the  most  flavor — it  can  be  easily  dried 
and  bottled  for  keeping. 

BASIL  is  also  an  herb  in  great  use ;  it 
grows  to  great  perfection  if  well  cultivat- 
ed. Its  aromatic  smell  is  very  similar 
to  cloves  :  there  are  two  kinds,  the  sweet 
basil,  ocymum  ~basilicum;  and  the  least 
basil,  ocymum  minimum.  The  first  has 
the  best  flavor  and  smell. 

THYME.— There  are  two,  the  lemon, 
tJiymus  citriodorus,  and  the  common 
thyme,  thymus  vulgar  is  ;  the  first  is  the 
best  to  use  in  all  dishes  wherever  this 
herb  is  required. 

PENNYBOYAL  is  not  much  in  use  in 
cookery,  but  can  be  used  where  mint  can- 
not be  had. 

MINT  — Spearmint  or  common  mint  is 
that  most  in  use ;  it  should  never  be 
used  in  large  quantities.  Some  of  it  in- 
fused in  vinegar,  and  the  vinegar  after- 
wards used  with  a  salad,  gives  a  fine  flavor 
and  a  novelty  to  that  dish,  and  it  is  used 
in  vinegar  with  lamb. 

SAGE  is  an  important  herb,  and  by 
many  considered  an  agreeable  condiment ; 
there  are  several  kinds;  that  whose 
leaves  have  a  purple  tinge  is  considered 
best  for  culinary  use. 

PARSLEY,  although  at  present  so  prom- 
inent in  use  in  our  kitchens,  was  un- 
known to  our  forefathers;  it  is  only 
within  a  century  that  it  has  become  so 
general :  it  was  introduced  into  England 
from  Italy.  There  are  three  varieties, 
the  common  or  plain-leaved,  the  curled 
or  double-leaved,  and  the  broad-leaved ; 
the  curled  is  the  best-looking,  but  has 
not  so  much  flavor  as  the  common  ;  the 
broad-leaved  is  used  for  its  root,  which 
is  excellent  cut  up  thinly  in  soup.  &c.  It 
may  be  obtained  all  the  year.  To  keep 


it  well,  it  should  be  dried  and  cut  up, 
and  placed  in  well  corked  bottles,  but 
should  only  be  used  when  fresh  cannot 
be  procured. 

TABEAGON  is  not  so  much  used  as  it 
ought  to  be ;  if  used  more  in  soup,  in- 
stead of  the  stronger  herbs,  it  would  be 
liked  ;  but  great  care  must  be  observed, 
as  its  aromatic  qualities  are  quickly  dis- 
sipated by  heat.  It  is  a  native  of  the 
north  of  Europe,  and  known  in  botany 
as  the  artemisia  dracuriculus. 

CLARY*  is  a  plant  of  the  sage  kind ;  its 
leaves  are  sometimes  used  to  flavor 
soups,  and  it  is  liked  by  a  few. 

FENNEL  may  be  used  often  with  ad- 
vantage ;  it  is,  however,  rarely  used  but 
with  fish. 

CELERY,  now  grown  to  such  perfection, 
is  the  cultivated  wild  plant  known  as 
smallage.  Celery  is  a  great  deal  used  in 
cookery^  but  it  should  not  be  subjected 
to  too  long  boiling ;  if  its  flavor  is  re- 
quired, and  no  root  to  be  obtained,  the 
seed  of  the  smallage  can  be  used  instead. 
It  is  geneiwlly  supposed  that  the  roots 
and  leaves  of  smallage  are  poisonous; 
we  would  not  recommend  them  to  be 
used,  as  the  seed  can  always  be  obtained, 
and  the  flavor  is  finer.  The  salts  of 
celery  is  a  modern  improvement,  and  a 
great  addition  to  our  culinary  condi- 
ments. 

BORAGE  is  not  much  used  in  cookery ; 
its  flavor  is  slightly  bitter,  and  it  is  some- 
times used  to  flavor  ale,  cider,  &c.,  for  a 
summer  drink. 

HORSE-RADISH  is  the  root  of  a  plant ; 
the  aroma  which  it  contains  is  quickly 
dissipated  by  heat — it  is  therefore  used 
in  a  raw  state  by  being  grated ;  an  es- 
sence may  be  obtained  by  infusion  with 
spirits  of  wine,  which,  added  to  mustard 
after  it  is  made,  gives  it  an  agreeable 
ffcivor. 

CHERVIL  is  getting  more  into  use 
every  day ;  its  flavor  is  exceedingly  pleas- 


CONDIMENTS. 


133 


ant,  and  can  be  employed  in  soups  and 
salads,  especially  in  made  dishes,  with 
the  greatest  advantage. 

CAPERS  are  the  buds  of  a  small  trail- 
ing shrub,  a  native  of  the  south  of  Eu- 
rope ;  those  grown  on  the  Rock  of  Gib- 
raltar are  considered  the  finest  in  the 
world.  They  are  very  excellent  with 
almost  all  boiled  meats,  fish,  and  salads. 

BROOM  BUDS,  when  pickled,  sometimes 
replace  capers. 

NASTURTIUMS  are  sometimes  used  in 
the  place  of  capers,  being  pickled  in  the 
same  way,  but  they  have  not  the  least 
resemblance;  they  may  be  used  for 
salads.  The  flower  of  the  nasturtium  is 
a  very  pretty  decoration  for  boiled  fish 
and  salads. 

BAE BERRIES  are  the  fruit  of  a  plant ; 
some  centuries  since,  they  appear  to  have 
been  often  used,  but  more  modern  im- 
portations have  superseded  them;  they 
have  a  very  acid  flavor,  and,  if  pickled, 
could  enter  into  the  composition  of  many 
dishes,  and  also  make  a  good  preserve. 

GHERKINS  are  the  young  cucumber,  or 
often  the  fruit  of  the  uncultivated  plant ; 
they  are  almost  always  pickled,  and  are 
an  elegant  addition  to  all  salads  and 
many  entrees. 

BEET-ROOT  is  a  root  of  a  plant  which 
of  late  years  has  been  extensively  culti- 
vated for  the  purpose  of  feeding  cattle  ; 
the  color  which  it  possesses  is  easily  ex- 
tracted, for  the  purpose  of  tinting  vari- 
ous articles  employed  in  cookery.  When 
boiled,  it  is  a  beautiful  addition  to  every 
salad. 

MUSHROOMS  are  greatly  used  in  domes- 
tic cookery,  and  are  a  general  favorite  ; 
their  liquor,  when  extracted  with  salt, 
becomes  a  condiment  known  under  the 
name  of  Ketchup,  very  extensively  em- 
ployed in  cookery ;  this  may  be  consider- 
ed wholesome,  as  it  is  known  to  facilitate 
the  digestion.  The  largest  are  the  best 
to  produce  the  ketchup,  and  the  small 
button  ones  to  use  in  dishes  ;  they  should 
9 


be  nicely  trimmed,  and  put  into  a  jar 
with  lemon-juice  to  blanch  them ;  should 
)e  submitted  to  very  little  heat  or  their 
delicacy  will  be  lost,  and  nothing  but  a 
tough  substance  left  to  eat. 

TRUFFLE  is,  without  doubt,  a  modern 
ntroduction.  So  late  as  the  year  1720, 
m  the  regency  of  Louis  XV.,  we  first 
near  of  its  being  used,,  when  Dubois,  the 
minister,  introduced  it  at  his  dinners, 
the  Duke  of  Orleans  gave  it  to  his  mis- 
resses,  and  the  gallants  of  the  day 
brought  it  into  notice  in  their  nocturnal 
repasts. 

It  was  at  this  period  that  the  science 
of  cookery  made  such  rapid  improve- 
ment in  France,  and  when  extravagance 
n  the  preparation  of  the  repasts  was 
carried  to  the  highest  point ;  this  was  a 
period  when  l"non  ex  pane  solo  vivit 
homo."  Many  of  the  sauces  first  discov- 
d  at  that  period  have  descended  to  the 
present  day — such  as  Soubise  and  Bech- 
amel, named  after  the  noblemen  who  first 
partook  of  them.  Then  it  was  that  the 
celebrated  '  Dinde  aux  Truffes"  (turkey 
with  truffles)  first  made  its  appearance. 
Since  this  period,  the  truffle  has  been 
considered  the <;  to  kalon  "  of  condiments, 
and  as  the  indispensable  ornament  of  all 
banquets;  or,  as  Brillat  Savarin  says, 
"  La  truffe  est  le  diamant  de  la  cuisine." 

Within  the  last  half  century,  the  place 
(Perigord)  which  produces  the  finest  of 
these  roots,  produced  the  first  of  diplo- 
matists— namely,  Talleyrand,  who  was  at 
the  same  time  a  great  gourmet.  The  lo- 
cality may  have  nad  its  influence ;  cer- 
tain it  is  he  would  never  give  a  decision 
upon  any  momentous  question  until  after 
dinner,  and  having  partaken  of  his  favor- 
ite dish,  Truife  aux  Vin  de  Champagne. 
They  are  a  species  of  fungus,  tube,  or 
root,  generally  found  within  a  few  inches 
of  the  surface  of  the  earth,  and  under 
oak  trees ;  known  also  as  the  subterra- 
nean "puff-ball,"  tula  nibarium.  The 
best  are  supposed  to  come  from  "  Peri- 


134: 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


gord,'  the  next  from  Angoul£me — these 
are  black ;  the  white  come  from  Pied- 
mont, and  the  Carolinas ;  they  ought  to 
be  eaten  fresh.  On  the  European  conti- 
nent, they  are  found  by  means  of  dogs 
and  pigs,  trained  on  purpose. 

They  should  not  be  subjected  to  too 
long  boiling,  as  the  aroma  is  very  vola- 
tile. 

BAY  is  the  leaf  of  a  species  of  laurel, 
but  in  using  it  care  must  be  taken  that 
the  leaf  of  the  bay-laurel,  or  cherry- 
laurel,  (prunus  laurocerasus,)  is  not  used 
for  it,  as  it  contains  prussic  acid.  This  is  a 
common  evergreen  in  the  southern  States. 
The  bay  or  sweet  bay,  (laurus  nobilis,) 
an  evergreen  of  the  South  of  Europe,  may 
be  used  to  great  advantage  in  cookery, 
as  it  imparts  an  agreeable  and  aromatic 
flavor,  differing  very  widely  from  any 
spices  that  can  be  used  for  the  same  pur- 
poses. It  is  cultivated  extensively  in 
gardens,  and  should  be  used  according  to 
the  directions  given  in  the  receipts. 

SAFFRON  was  formerly — that  is,  in  the 
fourteenth  century — much  used  in  cook- 
ery in  Europe.  It  has  bulbous  roots,  like 
the  onion  and  flowers ;  the  fibres  grow 
from  the  botton  of  the  bulb,  having  roots 
with  coats  or  skin  one  over  the  other, 
and  bears  naked  flowers  without  stem. 
At  present  it  is  only  used  in  the  kitchen 
for  the  purpose  of  coloring.  In  Portu- 
gal, Spain,  and  Turkey,  it  is  used  at  the 
present  day  to  a  great  extent. 

ANGELICA,  a  condiment  much  used  in 
the  confectionery  department  of  the  kitch- 


a  climbing  plant  like  ivy,  having  a  large 
leaf  and  black  flower,  which  leaves  a 
pod  containing  black  peas  ;  the  form  of 
the  pod  is  like  a  scimitar,  from  which  it 
takes  its  name,  being  in  Spanish  var- 
garila.  * 

When  covered  with  tin-foil,  and  kept 
in  a  moist  place,  it  will  become  covered 
with  flakes  of  silver.  It  denotes  the 
best  quality,  and  is  fit  for  use ;  it  will  do 
to  be  infused  several  times. 

SUGAR  is  the  concentrated  juice  of  a 
plant  which  grows  in  hot  cli ma.es,  and 
is  also  to  be  obtained  from  other  trees 
and  vegetables,  especially  from  beet-root. 
It  is  used  very  extensively  in  cookery, 
imparting  a  mellow  flavor  to  all  di.shes  ; 
it  is  of  an  antiseptic  nature,  and  ought  to 
be  employed  more  abundantly  in  preserv- 
ing animal  substances  than  it  is.  This 
condiment  was  unknown  to  the  ancients, 
who  employed  honey  in  place  of  it. 

ORANGE  is  the  fruit  of  a  tree  originally 
a  native  of  China,  but  now  grown  exten- 
sively in  all  warm  climates.  The  juice 
of  this  fruit  is  a  sweet  acid,  differing 
greatly  in  flavor  from  the  lemon  ;  its  peel 
is  of  use  in  cookery.  The  Seville  and 
Malta  oranges  are  a  variety  of  this 
fruit. 

ORANGE-FLOWER,  a  distillation  from 
the  flower,  is  used  a  great  deal  in  cookery. 

VERJUICE  is  the  juice  of  a  grape  of  that 
name,  and  on  the  European  continent 


was  used  to  a  great  extent,  until  the  in- 
troduction of  the  lemon.  The  grape  is 
gathered  unripe,  pressed,  allowed  to  fer- 
en.  is  the  stalk  of  a  plant  like  celery,  ment,  and  then  put  into  large  vats  to 
which  grows  in  gardens,  and  is  also  found  !  mature  ;  the  older  it  is,  the  better  the 
wild.  When  gathered,  it  is  dried,  pre-  '  flavor.  It  enters  into  the  composition 
served,  and  candied.  Rouen,  in  France, 


is  very  celebrated  for  it. 


of  several  of  the  sauces  in  use  at  the  pres- 
ent day ;  if  pure,  it  m&y  be  preferable 
VANILLA  is  used  chiefly  to  impart  fla-  for  several  dishes  to  vinegar. 
Vor  to  various  articles  in  confectionery;  it  |  OLIVE  is  a  fruit  not  much  used  in 
h^s  also  a  very  agreeable  smell,  which  !  cookery ;  it  grows  on  a  low  tree  with 
has  caused  it  to  be  used  in  scenting  dif-  I  long  narrow  leaves,  rough  underneath  ; 
ferent  perfumes,  and  thus  diminished  its  j  the  fruit  contains  a  long  and  small  ker- 
use  in  the  kitchen.  It  is  the  produce  of  [  nel  j  the  fruit,  when  pressed,  yields  the 


CONDIMENTS. 


135 


oil  known  as  olive  oil.     This  is  a  most 

valuable  article  in  cookery  ;  it  ought  to 

be  tasteless  and  inodorous,  but  when  long 

exposed  to  the  air  becomes  rank  and  un- 
fit for  use. 

ARROW-ROOT  is  the  powder  of  the  root 

of  a  tree  growing  in  very  warm  and 

moist  climates,  of  about  two  to  three 

feet  in  height,  known  in  botany  as  the 

maranta  arundinarea.    In  some  coun- 
tries, the  flour  of  this  root  is  mixed  with 

that  of  Indian  corn,  and  makes  excellent 

bread.     It  is  produced  in  the  same  way 

as  the  starch  from  potatoes. 

TAPIOCA  is  also  a    starch,   produced 

from  the  roots  of  a  Brazilian  plant  called 

Cassava,  a  very  elegant  but  poisonous 

plant,   with   beautiful   white   and    pink 

flowers.     It  is  now  in  general  use,  as  it 

is  found,  when  mixed  with  a  little  wine 

or  spirits,  to  be  an  excellent  stimulant  to 

an  invalid,  without  possessing  any  heat- 
ing qualities.     It  should  be  well  washed 

in  water,  and  boiled  until  it  becomes 

transparent,   when  it    should    be    well 

stirred,  and  whatever  is  required  to  be 

mixed  with  it  should  be  added.    It  will, 

when  mixed  with  other  flour,  make  very 

good  bread. 

SALSOP  is  another  root  of  a  plant  called 

orchis  morio,  a  native  of  the  East,  where 

it  is  used  as  an  article  of  food  to  a  greal 

extent;    it  is  reduced  to  powder,  anc 

readily  dissolves  in  boiling  water.  It  is 
a  light,  pleasant  drink,  and,  to  persons 
of  a  feverish  constitution,  is  exceedingly 
wholesome. 

SAGO   is   another  of    these    starches 
similar  to  Tapioca,  made  from  the  pith 
of  the  palm-tree,  a  native  of  the  Indies 
It  is  prepared  precisely  in  the  same 
as  Tapioca. 

SOY  is  obtained  from  the  seed  or  frui 

of  an  Indian  plant,  called  doliclios  soja,  \  antiseptic  liquor  can  be  produced  from 
or  soya;  it  is  made  like  ketchup;    it  I  all  herbs,  plants,  vegetables,  and       iTts, 
enters  greatly  into  use  in  the  variety  of  [  which  produce  sugar,  and  even  t 
sauces  that  are  made  for  the  table,  being  ;  gular  production  of  nature   kno* 
of  a  very  strong,  sweet-bitter  taste ;  it  |  honey,  and  of  which  the  juices  will  go 


hould  be  used  in  moderation  in  cook- 
- 

CHETNEY  is  a  production  of  the  East 
ndies,  which,  of  late  years,  has  come 
onsiderably  into  use;    it  is  made  by 
mixing  together  a  variety  of  fruits,  and 
llowing  them  to  ferment  until  they  be- 
ome  acid :  some  spices  are  then  mixgd 
with  them — and  it  is  bottled  for  use ;  the 
Ider  it  is,  the  better  it  becomes.    That 
made  in  the  Vale  of  Cashmere  is  con- 
sidered the  best. 

CURRY-POWDER  is  another  of  those 
ndian  condiments  which  have  latterly 
come  much  into  use,  and  it  is  only  to  be 
regretted  that  it  is  not  cheaper,  to  allow 
t  to  be  more  generally  used,  as  it  is  one 
of  those  stimulating  condiments  which 
would  be  invaluable  to  the  poor ;  its  use 
would  prevent  the  habit  of  taking  other 
stimulants  which  produce  intoxication. 

LEMON  is  the  fruit  of  a  tree,  a  native 
of  the  South  of  Europe  and  the  Indies  j 
it  is  a  most  valuable  production,  not  only 
for  cookery,  but  for  the  health  of  the 
human  race.  Its  juice,  when  diluted 
with  water,  and  sweetened,  makes  a 
most  refreshing  and  wholesome  drink. 
The  peel  contains  an  essential  oil.  which 
imparts  a  strong  pungent  flavor  to  those 
dishes  to  which  it  is  added.  The  true 
flavor  of  this  fruit  can  only  be  had  when 
fresh  and  ripe.  In  the  time  of  Henry 
VIII.,  this  fruit  was  a  great  rarity,  and 
was  partaken  of  at  dessert  with  a  quan- 
tity of  sugar  mixed  with  it. 

The  LIME  is  a  species  of  lemon,  the 
juice  of  which  is  more  acid. 

The  CITRON  is  also  another  species  ; 
the  juice  is  sweeter. 

VINEGAR  derives  its  name  from  the 
French  tin  aigre,  or  sour  wine,  and  is 
known  in  chemistry  as  acetic  acid.  This 


136 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


into  fermentation.  These  juices,  when 
first  expressed,  are  called  wine,  or  syrup ; 
they  undergo  a  fermentation  known  as 
the  vinous,  after  which,  when  exposed  to 
a  certain  degree  of  heat,  they  enter  into 
the  acetous  fermentation,  and  produce 
that  acid  pungent  liquor  known  as  vine- 
gar. Of  late  years,  it  has  also  been  pro- 
duced by  the  distillation  of  wood,  more 
particularly  oak,  and  known  aspyrcligne- 
ous  acid,  which  is  intensely  acid,  and 
highly  stimulating.  When  employed  in 
cookery,  it  should  be  used  judiciously, 
and  with  great  care.  The  best  vinegar 
is  that  which  contains  the  least  vegetable 
matter,  such  as  coloring,  &c.,  and  which 
has  the  strongest  acid  taste,  without 
being  hot. 

The  different  flavored  vinegars  may  be 
made  by  infusion,  without  the  aid  of 
heat,  of  the  different  substances  from 
which  the  flavor  is  required. 


CHAPTER  XXVH. 

RUDIMENTS    OF    COOKERY. 

A  FEW  simple  general  directions,  on  a 
subject  of  so  much  importance  to  family 
and  individual  comfort  as  cooking,  will 
be  found  useful,  even  though  there  be 
some  repetition  in  subsequent  instruc- 
tions. 

The  kitchen  should  be  furnished  with 
long  and  round  tables;  a  dresser  with 
shelves  serving  as  a  plate  rack ;  closets 
or  cupboards,  common  chairs,  benches, 
wooden  stools  and  sinks.  Towel  rollers, 
plate  warmers,  a  weighing  machine,  speak- 
ing tubes  a  dumb  waiter,  a  refrigerator, 
hot  water  dishes,  and  dish  covers  of  wire 
gauze,  are  also  among  the  indispensables. 
The  fireplace  should  have 'plenty  of  light. 
•  The  chief  object  of  cookery  is  to  make 
the  meat  tender  and  easy  of  digestion, 
without  depriving  it  of  its  juices.  Solid 
food,  especially  plain  roast  or  boiled  meat, 


requires  to  be  well  adapted  to  the  diges- 
tive powers ;  for  it  is  trying  to  many  con- 
stitutions, and  health  is  often  injured  by 
dining  upon  improperly  cooked  u  plain 
joints."  Butchers  meat,  when  brought 
from  market,  should  be  examined,  trim- 
med, and  wiped  clean ;  sprinkled  in  sum- 
mer with  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  and  hung 
up.  Mutton  and  veal  must  be  taken 
down  and  wiped  each  day.  Venison  is 
hung  some  time  before  cooking,  and 
should  be  wiped  dry  and  dredged  with 
ginger  or  pepper,  to  prevent  the  fly  from 
settling  on  it ;  the  dredging  wiped  off  be- 
fore cooking.  We  will  take  up  the  sim- 
ple culinary  processes  in  turn. 

Boiling. — This  is  seldom  done  proper- 
ly ;  the  error  most  common  among  Ameri- 
can cooks  is  that  of  boiling  meat  fast  over 
a  strong  fire,  which  renders  it  hard  and 
nearly  tasteless ;  whereas,  a  gentle  sim- 
mering for  nearly  double  the  time,  with 
half  the  quantity  of  fuel  and  water,  will 
better  accomplish  the  purpose. 

For  instance :  the  most  common,  and  al- 
most universal  dish  throughout  France,  is 
a  large  piece  of  plainly  boiled  fresh  beef, 
from  which  the  soup — or  "  pot  age"  as  it  is 
there  called — has  been  partly  made,  and 
which  is  separately  served  up  as  "  bouilli" 
accompanied  by  strong  gravy  and  minced 
vegetables,  or  stewed  cabbage.  Now  this, 
as  constantly  dressed  in  the  French  mode, 
is  ever  delicate  both  in  libre  and  flavor ; 
while,  in  the  English  manner  of  boiling 
it,  it  is  always  hard  and  insipid.  The 
reason  of  which,  as  explained  by  that 
celebrated  cook,  Careme.  who  superin- 
tended the  kitchen  of  His  Majesty  George 
IV..  is  this :— '•  The  meat,  instead  of  being 
put  down  to  boil,  as  in  the  English  meth- 
od, is  in  France  put  in  the  pot  with  the 
usual  quantity  of  cold  water,  and  placed 
at  the  corner  of  the  fireplace,  where,  slow- 
ly becoming  hot,  the  heat  gradually 
swells  the  muscular  fibres  of  the  beef, 
dissolving  the  gelatinous  substances  there- 
in contained,  and  disengaging  that  portioc 


RUDIMENTS   OF   COOKERY. 


137 


which  chemists  term  'osmazome,'  and 
which  imparts  savor  to  the  flesh — thus 
both  rendering  the  meat  tender  and  pala- 
table, and  the  broth  relishing  and  nutri- 
tive ;  while,  on  the  contrary,  if  the  pot 
be  inconsiderately  put  upon  too  quick  a 
fire,  the  boiling  is  precipitated,  the  fibre 
coagulates  and  hardens,  the  osmazome  is 
hindered  from  disengaging  itself,  and 
thus  nothing  is  obtained  but  a  piece  of 
tough  meat,  and  a  broth  without  taste  or 
succulence." 

Meat,  salted  or  fresh,  should  be  put 
first  into  cold  water  just  sufficient  to 
cover  it ;  to  be  warmed  gradually  and  re- 
newed, as  it  wastes  away,  with  hot  wa- 
ter. The  scum  must  be  skimmed  off  as 
fast  as  it  rises.  As  soon  as  the  water 
boils,  the  kettle  should  be  taken  off  the 
fire,  but  placed  near  enough  to  keep  it 
simmering,  which  it  will  do  with  little 
heat.  The  allowance  of  time  in  the  sum- 
mer is  eighteen  or  twenty  minutes  to 
each  pound ;  in  winter  rather  more.  The 
time  of  reckoning  must  begin  when  the 
water  boils.  Salt  meats  require  very 
slow  simmering,  and  must  have  more  time. 
Allowance  must  also  be  made  for  age. 

The  nice  look  of  every  thing  boiled  de- 
pends on  skimming  the  pot  well.  If  let 
alone,  the  scum  boils  down  and  sticks  to 
the  meat,  giving  it  a  coarse  and  uncleanly 
appearance.  A  little  cold  water  and  salt 
thrown  in  will  help  to  bring  up  the  scum. 
It  is  not  necessary  to  wrap  the  meat  in  a 
cloth.  Less  heat  is  required  to  keep 
liquids  boiling  in  copper  and  iron,  than 
in  tin  saucepans. 

Dried  or  salted  fish  and  meats  require 
soaking  in  cold  water  before  boiling. 

Meat  and  poultry  will  lose  their  flavor 
and  firmness,  if  left  in  the  water  after 
they  are  done ;  as  will  also  fish,  which 
will  break  to  pieces. 

The  water  in  which  fish,  meat,  or  poul- 
try has  been  boiled,  should  be  saved; 
this  pot-liquor,  as  it  is  called,  may  be 
made  into  soup. 


Remember  to  heat  the  water  contain- 
ing the  meat,  very  slowly;  a  joint  often 
pounds'  weight  should  not  boil  in  less 
than  forty  minutes.  The  more  slowly  it 
simmers  afterwards,  the  tenderer,  plump- 
er, and  whiter  it  will  be. 

An  experienced  cook  placed  a  thermom- 
eter in  water  in  that  state  which  cooks 
call  gently  simmering  ;  the  heat  was  212° 
viz.,  equal  to  the  strongest  boiling.  Two 
mutton  chops  were  covered  with  cold 
water ;  one  was  boiled  on  a  gallop,  the 
other  simmering  gently  for  three-quarters 
of  an  hour ;  the  flavor  of  the  simmered 
chop  was  decidedly  superior ;  the  liquor 
was  more  savory,  and  when  cold  had  more 
fat  on  its  surface.  The  chop  boiled  quick- 
ly was  hard  and  insipid. 

Take  care  that  the  covers  of  your  boil- 
ing pots  fit  closely,  and  only  remove  them 
for  skimming.  If  exposed  to  the  smoke 
the  meat  will  have  a  bad  taste. 

The  less  water  the  better,  so  that  the 
joint  is  covered ;  a  quart  of  water  is  gen- 
erally allowed  to  a  pound.  As  the  wa- 
ter is  diminished  by  evaporation,  fresh 
boiling  water  may  be  poured  into  tho 
saucepan. 

Beef  and  mutton  may  be  a  little  under, 
done ;  but  lamb,  pork,  and  veal,  are  un- 
eatable unless  thoroughly  boiled. 

A  fishdrainer,  four  skewers,  or  a  soup 
plate,  wrong  side  upwards,  laid  on  the 
bottom  of  the  boiling  pot,  will  prevent 
the  lower  side  of  the  meat  from  being 
overdone,  or  burnt  by  sticking. 

The  broth  of  every  joint  may  be  made 
into  savory  soup. 

Meat  loses  in  cooking  from  one-fifth 
to  one-third  of  its  weight.  Boiling  is  the 
more  economical  way  of  cooking,  if  the 
broth  be  used.  One  pound  a  day  for  each 
person  in  the  family  is  a  liberal  allow- 
ance for  dinner. 

The  sauces  sent  to  table  with  boiled 
meat  must  be  served  in  boats,  not  poured 
!  over  it. 

Eoasting.— The  first  preparation  must 


138 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


be  to  see. that  the  spit  is  cleaned  with 
sand  and  water.  It  should  be  wiped 
while  hot,  as  soon  as  meat  is  drawn  from 
it.  and  scoured  always  before  use.  Joint 
the  meat  properly  for  the  convenience  of 
the  carver,  and  balance  it  evenly  on  the 
spit,  that  its  motion  may  be  regular  and 
the  fire  operate  equally  on  each  part  of 
it.  Use  balance  skewers,  if  necessary 
and  do  not  run  the  spit  through  the 
prime  part  of  the  joint.  Take  care  that 
the  meat  has  been  kept  long  enough  to 
be  tender.  A  leg  of  mutton  should  never 
be  spitted,  as  the  spit  lets  out  the  gravy, 
and  leaves  an  unsightly  perforation  just 
as  you  are  cutting  into  the  pope's  eye. 

Roast  meat  by  the  radiant  heat  of  a 
clear,  glowing  fire,  otherwise  it  is  baked. 
The  "old  English  roast  beef"  was  not 
done  hi  an  oven. 

The  Paschal  lamb  among  the  Jews, 
was  roasted  whole;  among  eastern  na- 
tions sheep  are  thus  brought  to  table; 
but  it  is  not  done  among  us,  except  when 
pigs,  with  apples  in  their  mouths,  grace 
the  board  at  country  taverns,  at  some 
Fourth  of  July  celebration. 

Put  the  joint  to  roast  when  the  fire  is 
newly  made  up.  that  the  heat  may  in- 
crease by  degrees ;  proportion  the  fire  to 
the  size  of  the  joint,  making  it  a  few 
inches  longer.  What  would  roast  a  sirloin 
will  burn  up  a  smaller '  piece.  Clear  the 
fire  of  smoky  coals  before  the  joint  is 
put  down.  The  distance  from  the  fire  is 
mentioned  by  Webster  as  from  nine  to 
thirteen  inches ;  by  Kitchiner.  from  ten 
to  fourteen.  It  should  be  put  at  the  fur- 
thest point  at  first.  The  fat  parts  should 
have  paper  skewered  or  tied  over  them, 
or  be  covered  with  a  coarse  paste  of  flour 
and  water,  fastened  on  by  paper  and  a 
string,  and  taken  off  in  time  to  brown 
and  froth  the  meat.  Fat  meat  requires 
more  roasting  than  lean.  In  roasting  by 
a  string,  pass  a  skewer  through  each  end 
of  the  joint,  and  turn  it  bottom  upwards, 
that  the  gravy  may  flow  to  each  part. 


If  the  joint  is  thicker  at  one  end  than 
the  other,  place  the  spit  slanting,  the  thick- 
est part  nearest  the  fire.  Be  careful  not 
to  put  meat  too  near  the  fire  at  first ; 
and  the  larger  the  joint  the  farther  off 
it  must  be  kept ;  if  once  scorched,  the 
outside  will  become  hard,  and  the  fire 
will  not  penetrate  the  interior. 

Mrs/ Hale  says  :  In  stirring  the  fire, 
be  carefth  to  remove  the  dripping-pan, 
else  dust  and  ashes  may  fall  in.  On  no 
account  let  the  fire  get  dull  and  low,  as  a 
strong  heat  is  requisite  to  brown  the 
meat. 

A  thin  joint  requires  a  brisk  fire ;  a 
large  joint,  a  strong,  sound  and  even  fire. 
When  steam  rises  from  the  meat,  it  is 
done. 

Large  joints  should  be  put  at  a  moder- 
ate distance  from  the  fire,  and  gradually 
brought  nearer;  else  the  meat  will  be 
overdone  half  way  through  the  joint,  and 
be  nearly  raw  at  the  bone. 

Such  meat  as  is  not  very  fat  should 
have  paper  placed  over  it,  to  prevent  it 
from  being  scorched. 

Do  not  sprinkle  the  meat  with  salt 
when  first  put  down,  as  the  salt  draws 
out  the  gravy. 

Old  meats  require  more  cooking  than 
young.  The  longer  the  meat  has  been 
killed,  the  less  time  it  requires  to  roast 
it.  Very  fat  meat  requires  more  time 
than  usual. 

The  general  rule  is  to  allow  fifteen 
minutes  to  a  pound  for  roasting  with  a 
good  fire,  and  ten  or  twenty  minutes  over, 
as  the  family  like  it  well  done  or  not. 

Kitchiner  says:  u  Slow  roasting  is  equal- 
ly important  with  slow  boiling."  There 
should  be  a  meat-screen  to  guard  it  from 
currents  of  air.  Reckon' the  time  to  the 
moment  the  roast  will  be  eaten — allow- 
ing for  the  previous  courses.  If  a  joint 
stands  after  roasting,  it  will  not  be  "  done 
to  a  turn."  Its  size  and  age,  the  weather, 
the  fire,  the  degree  of  attention,  and 
many  other  circumstances,  have  to  be 


RUDIMENTS    OF   COOKEKY. 


139 


considered,  and  make  this  process  very 
difficult  to  perform  in  perfection. 

When  the  joint  is  half  done,  stir  up 
the  fire  thoroughly.  When  it  is  satura- 
ted with  heat,  steam  will  begin  to  rise. 

To  Baste  roast  meat,  is  to  moisten  it 
while  before  the  fire,  to  prevent  the  sur- 
face from  being  scorched.  Meat  should 
be  basted  at  first  every  ten  minutes,  and 
afterwards  more  frequently.  Beef  and 
mutton  may  be  basted  with  their  own 
dripping.  Veal  and  poultry  require  an 
addition  of  butter,  suet,  or  dripping. 
Some  meats  are  basted  with  flavored 
material:  claret,  sweet-herbs  and  but- 
ter being  used  for  mutton  and  lamb.  For 
a  pig,  cream  and  melted  butter  are  re- 
commended. For  veal  and  other  white 
meats,  a  basting  is  made  of  the  yolk 
of  eggs,  grated  biscuits,  and  the  juice  of 
an  orange.  Butter,  clarified  suet  and 
drippings,  are  used  commonly  for  roast 
meat. 

To  Brown  Meat. — Make  the  fire  brisk- 
er when  the  joint  is  half  done,  or  add 
a  glaze  to  improve  the  appearance. 

To  Froth  it. — Dredge  the  whole  joint 
lightly  with  flour,  when  sufficiently 
roasted,  and  immediately  baste.it  with 
butter  or  dripping.  Stir  the  fire,  and  in 
three  minutes  take  down  and  dish  the 
meat.  Use  butter  to  froth  poultry  or 
lamb.  The  process  plumps  up  the  skin, 
and  improves  its  appearance.  Do  not 
use  too  much  flour  ;  the  meat  should 
have  a  light  varnish  of  froth,  not  a  cover- 
ing of  paste. 

Dredgings  are  of  flour  simply,  or  flour 
and  grated  bread  ;  or  sweet  herbs  dried, 
powdered  and  mixed  with  flour ;  or  pow- 
dered sugar  mixed  with  pounded  cinna- 
mon and  grated  breaJ;  or  dried  and 
pounded  lemon  peel  mixed  with  flour ; 
or  fennel,  or  coriander  seed,  cinnamon 
and  sugar,  powdered  and  mixed  with 
grated  bread. 

Dripping  is  the  fat  which  drops  from 
roasting  meat,  and  is  used  in  frying, 


basting,  or  making  plain  pastry.  When 
a  joint  of  beef  is  roasted,  pour  the  melt- 
ed fat  into  a  basin  of  cold,  clean  water ; 
the  heavy  particles  sink  to  the  bottom ; 
the  melted  fat  floats,  and  when  cold, 
forms  a  clear  cake  of  fat,  fit  for  use 
several  days  in  cool  weather.  Drip- 
ping that  has  been  used  for  frying  (un- 
less fish  or  pork  has  been  fried  in  it) 
may  be  clarified  in  this  way,  for  use 
a  second  time.  Beef  suet  should  be  slow- 
ly melted,  and  passed  through  a  sieve 
into  cold  water ;  when  caked  it  may  be 
put  into  a  jar,  and  kept  in  a  cool  place. 

The  Skimmings  of  Soups  and  Gravies 
—  called  " top-pot" — is  used  by  French 
cooks  with  flour,  to  thicken  gravies  and 
soups,  and  by  some  for  frying. 

French  Cooking. — French  cooks  sub- 
ject their  meats  to  a  gradual  long  con- 
tinued action  of  heat,  making  the  fibre 
perfectly  tender.  The  English  and  Amer- 
icans cook  them  too  fast;  the  French 
would  pronounce  such  food  only  fit  for 
barbarians.  Another  peculiarity  of  French 
cooking  is  the  variety  of  flavors  impart- 
ed to  meat.  A  great  number  of  dishes 
are  prepared  from  a  few  original  sub- 
stances, and  the  addition  of  a  particular 
sauce  gives  a  name  to  the  dish.  In  our 
cooking,  the  flavor  peculiar  to  each  meat 
is  preserved,  and  no  condiment  is  suffer- 
ed to  overpower  it.  French  dishes  are 
more  sightly  ;  light  and  elegant  dishes, 
not  ponderous  masses,  tempt  the  appe- 
tite. The  French  cooking  is  also  more 
economical.  Nothing  is  wasted ;  and 
many  ingredients  are  brought  into  use 
which  we  would  cast  aside  as  useless. 

Braising  is  an  important  part  of  the 
art  of  cooking,  and,  like  the  saute,  be- 
longs entirely  to  the  French  school  from 
which  it  takes  its  name,  braise  being  the 
remains  of  wood  burnt  in  the  oven,  or 
live  charcoal :  this  plan  of  cookery  re- 
quires the  action  of  the  fire  under  and 
over  the  braising  pan,  which  is  air-tight, 
in  order  that  the  aromatic  flavor  arising 


140 


THE    PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


from  its  contents  may  be  imbibed  by  the 
meat  or  poultry,  and  give  it  that  succu- 
lence so  much  esteemed  by  epicures.  Its 
origin  is  stated  to  be  owing  to  a  gastro- 
nomic society  which  was  formerly  in 
existence  in  Paris,  whose  object  was  to 
benefit  and  improve  the  art  of  cookery, 
and  who  offered  a  reward  of  a  silver 
gridiron  to  any  culinary  artist  who 
would  discover  a  new  mode  of  dressing 
a  turkey.  Although  a  gridiron  was,  no 
doubt,  intended  to  be  used,  yet  a  young 
artist  named  La  Gacque,  warmed  by  the 
offer,  directed  his  imagination  to  quite 
a  different  mode,  and  used  the  pan  instead 
of  the  gridiron,  and  thus  composed  the 
braise,  which  was  unanimously  approved 
of  by  that  scientific,  gastronomic,  and 
epicurean  body,  who  awarded  him  the 
prize.  The  chief  art  in  braising  is  to  do 
it  slowly,  taking  care  that  the  ingredients 
are  well  proportioned.  Put  the  meat 
you  would  braise  into  a  stewpan.  and 
cover  it  with  thick  slices  of  fat  bacon  ; 
then  lay  round  it  six  or  eight  onions,  a 
fagot  of  sweet  herbs,  some  celery,  and, 
if  to  be  brown,  some  thick  slices  of 
carrots,  and  trimmings  of  any  fresh  meat- 
bones  you  have,  with  a  pint  and  a  half  of 
water,  or  the  same  quantity  of  stock, 
according  to  what  the  meat  is,  and  add 
seasoning.  Lay  on  a  sheet  of  paper, 
cover  the  pan  close,  and  set  it  over  a 
slow  stove  ;  it  will  require  two  or  three 
hours,  as  its  size  and  quality  may  direct. 
Then  strain  the  gravy;  keep  the  meat 
quite  hot ;  take  the  fat  off  by  plunging 
the  basin  into  cold  water,  which  will 
cause  the  fat  to  coagulate ;  and  boil  it  as 
quickly  as  you  can  till  it  thickens.  If, 
however,  you  wish  the  gravy  to  adhere 
to  the  meat,  it  must  be  still  further 
thickened ;  then  with  a  brush  kept  for 
the  purpose  do  over  the  meat,  and  if 
that  has  been  larded,  put  it  into  the  oven 
for  a  few  minutes.  This  is  called  "  glaz- 
ing," and  is  much  in  use  for  made- 
dishes. 


A  Braising  Pan  is  a  sort  of  oblong 
kettle,  with  a  bordered  lid  on  which 
coals  or  ashes  may  be  put.  The  lid 
should  closely  fit  the  pan. 

Glazing  is  strong  gravy,  boiled  quickly 
till  thick ;  and  it  is  put  on  meat  with  a 
brush.  Hams,  tongues,  and  stewed  beef 
may  be  glazed. 

Jerked  Beef  is  made  by  cutting  it  into 
thin  slices,  dipping  them  into  salt  or  sea 
water,  and  drying  them  in  the  sun.  This 
is  done  in  the  West  Indies. 

Broiling. — The  gridiron  must  be  kept 
perfectly  clean  and  bright ;  always  wiped 
when  hot  after  use,  and  rubbed  just  be- 
fore the  meat  is  laid  on  it.  with  clean  fat 
or  suet.  The  bars^  must  be  thoroughly 
hot,  but  not  so  as  to  burn.  They  should 
be  concave,  and  terminate  in  a  trough  to 
catch  the  gravy.  The  fire  must  be  clear 
and  glowing,  especiall}7"  for  a  beefsteak, 
for  which  the  passage  in  Macbeth  is  a 
good  direction.  "  When  'tis  done,  then 
'twere  well  it  were  done  quickly."  Mut- 
ton chops  do  not  require  quite  so  brisk 
a  fire.  If  the  article  to  be  broiled  is 
thick,  it  must  be  warmed  through  more 
gradually.  The  broiling  must  be  done  as 
quickly  as  possible,  to  avoid  drying  up 
the  juices  and  hardening  the  fibre  of 
meat.  Beef  and  mutton  require  a  hotter 
fire  than  pork  or  veal,  poultry,  or  fish. 
Let  the  steak  be  uniformly  thick  ;  beef- 
steaks not  more  than  half  an  inch  thick; 
mutton  a  little  thicker. 

Do  not  sprinkle  the  steak  with  salt 
before,  or  while  broiling.  It  draws  out 
the  gravy.  Pepper  may  be  used.  Do 
not  turn  the  steaks  with  a  fork,  but  with 
a  small  tongs. 

A  charcoal  fire  is  convenient  for  broil- 
ing. When  the  chops  are  placed  on  the 
gridiron,  set  the  dish  to  heat  in  which 
they  are  to  be  f-erved,  and  send  to  table 
as  hot  as  possible. 

Soyer  says:  "As  regards  the  thick- 
ness of  the  meat  to  be  broiled,  that  de- 
pends in  a  great  measure  on  the  intensity 


RUDIMENTS    OF   COOKERY. 


141 


of  the  fire,  but  the  quicker  the  better, 
and  also  the  sooner  it  is  eaten  after  taken 
from  the  fire  the  better  it  will  be.  I 
have  latterly,  in  broiling  rump-steaks, 
added  that  which,  by  a  great  many,  is  con- 
sidered an  improvement ;  it  is,  on  turn- 
ing them  the  last  time,  to  dredge  them  out 
of  a  dredger  with  fine  holes,  in  which  have 
been  placed  four  table-spoonfuls  of  fine 
biscuit  or  rusk-powder,  one  -tablospoon- 
ful  of  salt,  one  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  a 
saltspooriful  of  either  eschalot  powder  or 
mushroom-powder,  or  finely  pulverized 
salts  of  celer}*-,  well  mixed  together,  and 
the  steak  to  be  placed  in  a  very  hot  dish, 
with  a  little  mushroom-catsup,  and  a  small 
piece  of  butter,  and  served  immediately." 

Frying. — Though  a  convenient  mode 
of  cooking,  this  is  seldom  done  well.  It 
is  to  roast  quickly,  or  scorch  meat,  &c., 
in  fat  in  an  iron  pan.  If  little  fat  is  used, 
it  is  called  sauteing.  The  pan  should 
be  flat  and  thick-bottomed,  with  perpen- 
dicular sides.  Dripping,  oil,  butter, 
fresh  lard,  or  clarified  suet  —  perfectly 
clean,  fresh  and  sweet,  must,  when  melt- 
ed, cover  the  bottom  of  the  pan  ;  when 
this  is  heated  sufficiently,  the  meat  or  fish 
must  be  put  in  and  turned  frequently, 
from  one  side  to  the  other.  When  near- 
ly done,  they  may  be  browned  by  being 
pressed  firmly  against  the  bottom  of  the 
pan. 

Be  careful  that  the  fat  or  oil  is  fresh, 
clean,  and  free  from  salt,  else  what  you 
fry  in  it  will  be  of  bad  color  and  flavor ; 
salt  will  prevent  it  from  browning. 

Fat  or  oil,  to  be  used  again,  should  be 
strained  through  a  sieve  before  it  is  set 
aside. 

Fat  becomes  richer  from  having  meat 
fried  in  it,  and  maybe  used  repeatedly ; 
but  the  fat  that  has  been  used  for  fish 
cannot  be  used  again  for  meat. 

To  prepare  crumbs  for  frying,  dry  thor- 
oughly in  a  warm  oven,  or  before  the 
fire,  any  waste  pieces  of  bread;  then 
pound  them  in  a  mortar  and  sift  them,  j 


and  put  them  away  till  wanted.  This  is 
much  better  than  grating  bread  as  it  is 
needed,  or  using  oatmeal,  &c. 

When  you  wish  fried  things  to  look  ns 
well  as  possible,  do  tl.era  twice  over  with 
egg  and  crumbs. 

If  eggs  be  very  dear,  a  little  flour  and 
water  may  be  substituted  for  them  in 
preparing  fish  to  fry. 

In  frying  use  a  slice  to  lift  the  articles 
in  and  out  of  the  pan,  and  drain  thorn. 

To  make  batter  for  frying :  melt  two 
ounces  of  butter  in  a  little  warm  water, 
and  pour  it  upon  half-a-pound  of  flour ; 
stir  it  and  add  water  enough  to  form  a 
batter,  thick  enough  to  adhere  to  what- 
ever is  put  into  it ;  but  it  should  run 
freely:  add  some  salt  and  the  beaten 
whites  of  two  eggs. 

A  small  shallow  frying-pan,  or  sauie- 
pan,  as  it  is  called,  is  very  useful  to  fry 
articles  to  be  stewed :  this  method  dif- 
fers from  common  frying,  as  it  only  re- 
quires butter  enough  to  keep  the  article 
from  sticking  to  the  pan  and  burning.' 

The  fire  for  frying  should  be  free  from 
smoky  coals,  sharp,  and  even.  Charcoal 
makes  the  best  frying  fire. 

The  fat  should  be  carefully  drained 
from  all  fried  articles ;  indeed,  they 
should  be  so  dry  as  scarcely  to  soil  a 
cloth.  Fish  is  best  drained  by  wrapping 
it  in  soft  whitey-brown  paper,  by  which 
it  will  so  dry  as  not  to  soil  the  napkin 
upon  which  it  is  served. 

The  great  secret  in  frying  is  to  know 
when  the  fat*  is  of  a  proper  heat.  Put 
nothing  in  till  it  has  done  hissing,  and  is 
still.  Or  throw  a  small  bit  of  bread  into 
the  pan ;  if  it  fries  crisp,  the  fat  is  ready ; 
if  it  burns,  too  hot.  Whatever  is  tried 
in  fat  not  heated  enough,  will  be  pale  and 
sodden.  Fish  should  be  crisp  and  dry 
in  a  few  minutes  after  it  is  out  of  the 
pan ;  when  it  is  not  so,  dry  it  on  a  cloth 
before  the  fire. 

Baking. — Baking  is  a  very  common 
and  convenient  mode  of  dressing  a  dinner 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


in  small  families,  and  much  used  in  these 
United  States.  The  southern  cook  will 
often  stand  in  the  midst  of  a  circle  of 
portable  ovens,  placed  on  the  brick  floor 
of  the  kitchen,  which  is  usually  at  some 
distance  from  the  dwelling-house. 

Legs  of  mutton  and  pork,  fillets  of 
veal,  and  many  other  joints,  will  bake 
nicely  if  inclined  to  ba  fat ;  if  lean,  they 
will  not  taste  well,  but  will  shrivel  up 
and  lo-e  much  in  weight. 

A  pig,  geese  and  ducks,  a  buttock,  leg 
or  shin  of  beef,  a  ham,  oxcheek,  and  va- 
rious kinds  of  fidh,  make  very  nice  baked 
dishes.  The  oven  in  preparing  all  kinds 
of  bread  and  farinaceous  food,  is  indis- 
pensable. 

Stewing. — All  articles  to  be  stewed 
should  first  be  boiled  gently,  then  skim- 
med and  set  aside  in  an  even  heat :  on 
this  account,  charcoal  makes  the  best  fire 
for  Ktewing. 

All  stews,  or  meat  dressed  a  second 
time,  should  be  only  simmered,  as  the 
meat  should  only  be  made  hot  through. 

A  stewpan  is  the  most  advantageous 
vessel  in  which  stews,  hashes,  soups,  or 
gravies,  can  be  made ;  indeed,  for  all  pur- 
poses of  boiling,  a  stewpan  is  preferable 
to  a  deep  saucepan,  as,  in  the  former,  the 
articles  are  exposed  to  more  even  heat 
than  when  they  are  placed  one  above 
another  in  the  saucepan,  and  are  likely 
to  be  broken  in  stirring. 

The  best  stewpans  are  made  of  copper 
or  iron  ;  they  should  be  kept  covered  as 
much  as  possible,  unless  you  wish  to  re- 
duce the  gravy. 

Ee  careful  not  to  fry  in  a  stewpan ;  or 
if  so,  with  great  care,  and  sufficient  but- 
ter to  save  the  tinning  from  melting. 

Most  of  the  directions  for  making 
soups  and  gravies  apply  also  to  this 
branch  of  cookery. 

Poeling. — Put  into  a  stewpan  with 
two  pounds  of  veal,  a  pound  of  beef  suet, 
one  of  butter,  one  of  very  fat  bacon,  all 
cut  up ;  fry  them  till  the  veal  becomes 


white;    put   in   three   pints  of   boiling 

water,  a  handful  of  salt,  a  few  sprigs  of 

thyme,  a  bay  leaf,  an  onion  stuck  with 

'  cloves,  and  a  bundle  of  parsley  and  green 

onions.     Boil  the  whole  gently  till  the 

I  onion  is  done,  strain  it  through  a  sieve, 

j  and  set  it  by  for  use.     i  cele  will  keep 

for  a  week,   and   will  give  relish  and 

whiteness  to  everything  boiled  in  it.     Do 

not  boil  any  lean  of  bacon ;  it  will  give 

a  red  color  from  the  saltpetre.     Meat  in 

poe  ling  must  be  under-done. 

Larding. — Have  ready  larding-pins  of 
different  sizes,  according  to  the  article  to 
be  done  ;  cut  slices  of  bacon  into  bits  of 
a  proper  length,  quite  smooth,  and  put 
on  a  larding-needle  to  suit  it,  with  which 
pierce  the  skin  and  a  very  little  of  the 
meat,  leaving  the  bacon  in,  and  the  two 
ends  of  equal  length  outwards.  Lard  in 
rows  the  size  you  think  fit. 

The  same  effect  with  regard  to  flavor, 
may  be  produced  by  raising  the  skin  and 
laying  a  slice  of  fat  bacon  beneath  it. 

Doubing  consists  in  passing  bacon 
through  meat,  while  larding  is  on  the 
surface  only. 

Glazing  is  done  by  brushing  melted 
glaze  or  jelly  over  the  article,  and  letting 
it^cool;  in  some  cases  it  is  requisite  to 
cover  the  articles  with  two  'or  three 
coats  of  glaze,  allowing  each  to  cool  as  it 
is  laid  on.  The  glaze  should  be  of  a  clear 
yellow  brown,  and  as  thick  as  good 
treacle. 

If  you  have  not  the  glaze  ready,  sift  a 
little  sugar  over  the  article  to  be  glazed, 
and  finish  in  the  oven,  with  a  salaman- 
der, or  red  hot  shovel. 

Blanching  makes  the  article  plump 
and  white,  and  consists  in  putting  it  into 
cold  water  over  the  fire,  allowing  it  to 
boil  up,  and  then  plunging  it  into  cold 
water,  where  the  article  should  remain 
until  quite  cold. 

Danger  from  Copper  Saucepans. — The 
precise  danger  from  the  use  of  copper 
saucepans,  or  stewpans,  imperfectly  tin- 


HINTS   AND   MAXIMS. 


143 


ned.  is  hardly  understood.  It  appears 
that  the  acid  contained  in  stews  and 
other  made  dishes,  as  lemon-juice,  though 
it  does  not  dissolve  copper  by  being 
merely  boiled  in  it  a  few  minutes,  never- 
theless, if  allowed  to  cool  and  stand  in 
it  for  some  time,  will  acquire  poisonous 
matter,  as  verdigris,  in  the  form  of  a 
green  band,  or-  crust,  inside  the  vessel. 
It  has  likewise  been  proved  that  wealc 
solutions  of  common  salt,  such  as  are 
daily  made  by  adding  a  little  salt  to  boil- 
ing vegetables,  fish,  or  meat,  act  power- 
fully on  copper  vessels,  although  strong 
solutions  or  brine  would  not  affect  them. 

It  is.  however,  in  vain  to  hope  that 
cooks  will  attend  to  the  nice  distinctions 
by  which  copper  stewpans  may  be  ren- 
dered safe  ;  the  general  advice  given  by 
prudent  physicians  is,  therefore,  against 
their  use  at  all. 

The  kettles  in  which  the  soups  are 
made  should  be  well  tinned,  and  kept 
particularly  clean,  by  being  washed  in 
hot  water  and  rubbed  dry  before  they 
are  put  away.  If  they  are  not  kept  well 
tinned,  the  taste  as  well  as  the  color  of 
the  soup  will  be  liable  to  be  affected  by 
the  iron ;  and  if  the  soup-kettfe  be  made 
of  copper,  and  the  tinning  not  quite  per- 
fect, everything  cooked  in  it  will  be  more 
or  less  poisonous,  as  everything  which  is 
sweet,  salt,  or  sour,  extracts  verdigris 
from  copper. 

Boning,  besides  its  other  advantages, 
is  particularly  recommended,  on  account 
of  its  econcnr/ :  the  bones  of  turkeys, 
fowls,  hares,  &c.,  assisting  to  make  gravy, 
while  they  are  nearly  useless  when  left 
in  the  bodies  of  the  animals  •  a  boned 
fowl  also,  rendered  solid  by  stuffing,  will 
go  much  further  than  when  dressed  in 
the  common  way.  Hares  should  always 
be  boned,  for  the  sake  of  the  improve- 
ment in  their  appearance,  and  being  so 
much  more  easily  carved.  In  the  hiring 
of  a  cook  b}7  persons  resident  in  the 
country,  it  is  therefore  essential  to  ascer-  1 


tain  whether  she  is  mistress  of  that  art ; 
for  as  to  teaching  her  by  printed  direc-' 
tions,  it  would  be  tiroie  "thrown  away 
and  she  can  only  acquire  it  by  practice  ; 
but  it  may  be  learned  by  a  few  lessons 
from  the  poulterer. 


Napkin  Rings. 


CHAPTER  XXVIII. 

H:NTS  AND  MAXIMS. 

IF  you  chance  to  occupy  the  important 
position  of  a  cook,  remember  that  clean- 
liness is  the  first,  second  and  third  requi- 
site in  point  of  importance,  to  be  ob- 
served. 

Keep  your  flour-box,  sugar,  salt,  and 
spices  always  covered,  that  dust  and  in- 
sects may  not  get  in. 

Never  put  onions  or  cheese  on  the 
same  dish  with  anything  else,  and  never 
cut  anything  else  with  the  knife  you  use 
for  them.  Keep  a  particular  pitcher  for 
beer  or,  buttermilk,  or  you  may  chance 
to  put  milk  or  water  into  the  remains. 

Empty  into  some  outside  drain  the 
saucepan  in  which  you  have  boiled  vege- 
tables, as  soon  as  you  have  done  with  it ; 
and  never  put  by  anything  eatable  in  a 
saucepan.  This  is  a  fearfully  common 
practice  with  southern  cooks.  Keep  your 
tin  and  copper  vessels  as  sweet  and  clean 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


as  glass  or  china.  The  saucepans  are  of 
far  more  consequence  than  tumblers  or 
teacups.  If  glaf  ses  be  dirty,  those  who 
drink  from  them  are  disgusted ;  but  if 
saucepans  be  foul,  they  may  chance  to  be 
poisoned.  Many  have  died  from  this 
cause.  The  sort  of  rust  which  forms  in 
copper  vessels  not  kept  clean  is  a  deadly 
poison.  If  a  housekeeper  is  careful,  she 
will  look  into  all  her  saucepans  at  least 
once  a  week,  to  see  if  they  are  well  clean- 
ed, or  want  tinning. 

Let  the  dinner  be  served  quite  hot, 
and  have  the  plates  as  hot  as  you  can 
handle  them,  Cold  plates  spoil  the  fin- 
est joint  of  meat;  and  it  is  very  easy  to 
have  plates  hot.  At  breakfast  and  tea 
carry  in  the  water  quite  boiling,  and  then 
it  will  not  be  your  fault  if  the  tea  is  not 
good.  It  is  a  very  common  fault  in  cooks, 
as  soon  as  the  teakettle  boils,  to  set  it  on 
one  side  where  the  water  coo!s  a  little,  so 
that  it  is  not  quite  boiling  when  poured 
on  the  tea. 

-The  true  economy  of  housekeeping  is 
simply  the  art  of  gathering  up  all  the 
fragments,  so  that  nothing  be  lost.  I 
mean  fragments  of  time,  as  well  as  ma- 
terials. Nothing  should  be  thrown  away 
so  long  as  it  is  possible  to  make  any  use 
of  it,  however  trifling  that  use  may  be ; 
and  whatever  be  the  size  of  a  family, 
every  member  should  be  employed  either 
in  earning  or  in  saving  money. 

In  early  childhood,  you  lay  the  founda- 
tion of  poverty  or  riches  in  the  habits 
you  give  your  children.  Teach  them  to 
save  everything ;  not  for  their  own  use — 
for  that  would  make  them  selfish — but 
for  some  use.  Teach  them  to  share  even-- 
thing with  their  playmates;  but  never 
allow  them  to  destroy  anything. 

As  far  as  possible,  have  bits  of  bread 
eaten  before  they  become  hard.  Spread 
the  rest  out  to  dry  to  be  pounded  for 
puddings,  or  soaked  for  "  brewis."  This 
is  made  of  dry  crusts  and  bits  of  bread 


soaked  in  hot  milk,  mashed,  salted  and 
buttered  like  toast. 

An  ox's  gall  will  set  any  color  in  silk, 
cotton  or  woollen.  The  colors  of  calico 
which  would  fade  in  one  washing  will  be 
fixed  by  it.  It  is  worth  while  to  buy 
cheap  fading  goods,  and  set  them  in  this 
way.  Get  out  all  the  liquid  from  the  gall, 
and  cork  it  up  in  a  large  phial.  One  large 
spoonful  in  a  gallon  of  warm  water  is 
sufficient.  It  is  also  excellent  for  taking 
out  spots  from  bombazine  and  stiff  goods, 
which,  washed  in  it,  look  as  well  as  new. 
It  must  be  stirred  into  the  water.  After 
washing  cloth  in  this  water,  you  must 
wash  it  if  you  wish  to  clear  it,  in  warm 
suds,  not  putting  soap  upon  it. 

Lamps  will  have  a  less  disagreeable 
smell  if  you  dip  the  wick  yarn  in  strong 
hot  vinegar  and  dry  it. 

Do  not  let  coffee  and  tea  stand  in  tin. 
Keep  tinware  dry,  and  scald  wooden- 
ware  often. 

Eggs  will  keep  almost  any  length  of 
time  in  lime  water  properly  prepared. 
One  pint  of  coarse  salt,  and  one  pint  of 
nnslacked  lime,  to  a  common  pailful  of 
water.  If  there  be  too  much  lime  it  will 
eat  the  eggs  from  the  shells ;  and  if  a  sin- 
gle egg  be  cracked  it  will  spoil  the  whole. 
They  should  be  covered  with  lime  water, 
and  kept  in  a  cold  place.  It  is  a  good 
plan  to  lay  down  eggs  in  the  spring  and 
September  for  the  winter. 

Few  know  how  to  keep  the  flavor  of 
sweet  marjoram,  the  best  of  all  herbs  for 
broth  and  stuffing.  It  should  be  gathered 
in  bud  or  blossom  and  dried  in  a  tin  kitch- 
en at  a  moderate  distance  from  the  fire ; 
when  dry  it  should  be  rubbed,  sifted,  and 
corked  up  in  a  bottle. 

Bones  from  which  roasting  pieces  have 
been  cut  may  be  bought  in  market  for  a 
trifle,  and  a  very  rich  soup  made  of  them, 
besides  skimming  the  fat  for  shortening. 
Bones  from  the  rump  are  full  of  marrow, 
and  will  yield  a  pint  of  good  shortening 


HINTS   AND   MAXIMS. 


145 


without  impairing  the  richness  of  the 
soup.  The  best  pieces  of  beef  for  soup 
are  the  leg  and  shin ;  if  boiled  very  long. 
the  sinews  add  to  the  richness  of  the 
soup. 

The  shoulder  of  veal  is  the  most 
economical  for  roasting  or  boiling ;  two 
dinners  may  be  made  from  it — the  shoul- 
der roasted,  and  the  knuckle  cut  off  to  be 
boiled  with  pork  and  greens,  or  made 
into  soup. 

Keep  an  old  blanket  and  sheet  for  iron-- 
ing,  and  on  no  account  suffer  any  other 
to  be  used.  Have  plenty  of  holders,  and 
do  not  put  towels  to  such  service. 


Scrubbing  Brush. 


Keep  a  coarbe  broom  for  the  cellar 
stairs,  wood  shed,  yard,  &c.  Never  use 
a  carpet  broom  for  such  places. 

Never  drop  knives  into  hot  dishwater 
Have  a  large  tin  basin  to  wash  them  in 
just  high  enough  to  wash  the  blades  with- 
out icetting  the  handles.  Keep  your  cas 
tors  covered  with  blotting  paper  ana 
green  flannel.  Keep  your  salt  spoons  ou 
of  the  salt,  and  clean  them  often. 

Do  not  wrap  knives  and  forks  in  wool 
lens,  but  in  strong  paper.     Steel  is  in 
jured  by  lying  in  woollens.    It  is  a  good 
plan  to  rub  the  blades  with  nice  grease, 
and  wrap  them  up  separately,  to  prevent 
rust. 

Herbs  should  be  kept  from  the  air. 
Herb  tea,  to  do  any  good,  should  be 
made  very  strong.  Herbs  must  be  gath- 
ered while  in  blossom.  Those  who  have 


little  ground  will  do  well  to  raise  the 
most  useful  herbs ;  apothecaries  make 
arge  profits  on  them. 

The  same  pickle  used  for  bacon  is  good 
or  neats'  tongues.  Pigs'  tongues  are  nice, 
n-epaved  in  the  same  way.  They  are 
old  in  England  for  reindeers'  tongues, 

a  great  luxury. 

Buffaloes'  tongues  should  soak  a  day 
md  a  night,  and  boil  six  hours. 

Molasses  used  in  cooking  should  be 
irst  boiled  and  skimmed.  One  or  two 
gallons  may  be  thus  prepared  at  a  time. 
;t  is  a  prodigious  improvement. 

Always  have  a  heavy  stone  on  the  top 
of  your  pork  in  pickle.  You  may  keep 
a  bit  of  fresh  meat  on  this  stone,  in  sum- 
mer, when  you  fear  it  may  spoil. 

Have  plenty  of  towels  in  the  kitchen, 
or  Biddy  will  use  your  white  napkins. 

Soap  dirty  clothes,  and  soak  them  hi 
water  over  night.  Use  hard  soap  for 
clothes,  and  soft  for  washing  floors. 

Cut  lemon  and  orange  peel,  when  fresh, 
into  a  bottle  kept  full  of  brandy.  This 
brandy  gives  a  delicious  flavor  to  pies, 
cakes,  &c.  Roseleaves  may  be  preserv- 
ed in  brandy.  Peach  leaves  steeped  in 
it  make*  an  excellent  seasoning  for  cus- 
tards and  puddings. 

Grate  horseradish  when  the  root  is  in 
perfection,  put  it  in  bottles,  fill  it  with 
strong  vinegar,  and  keep  it  corked  tight, 
for  winter  use. 

Keep  a  bag  for  odd  pieces  of  tape  and 
strings,  and  a  bag  or  box  for  old  buttons. 
A  little  salt  sprinkled  in  starch,  while 
boiling,  prevents  its  sticking  :  it  is  also 
good  to  stir  it  with  a  clean  sperm 
candle. 

To  separate  wax  from  honeycomb,  tie 
up  the  comb  in  a  linen  or  woollen  bag ; 
place  it  in  a  kettle  of  cold  water,  - 
hang  it  over  the  fire. 


and 
The  wax  melts 


and  rises  to  the  surface,  while  all  the 
impurities  remain  in  the  bag.    A  few 


146 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


pebbles  in  the  bag  will  prevent  its  float 
ing. 

Honey  may  be  separated  from  the 
comb  by  placing  it  in  the  hot  sun  ,or 
before  the  fire,  with  two  or  three  col- 
anders or  sieves  under  it — each  .finer 
than  the  other. 

Potatoes  boiled  and  mashed  hot,  are 
good  in  shortcakes  and  puddings;  they 
save  flour  a«d  shortening. 

To  corn  meat  simply — rub  in  plenty 
of  salt,  and  set  it  in  the  cellar  for  a  day 
or  two.  In  summer  it  is  good  to  corn 
meat,  which  will  not  keep  more  than  a 
day  and  a  half.  If  you  want  to  keep  it 
longer,  rub  in  more  salt,  and  secure  it 
from  the  flies.  A  little  saltpetre  rubbed 
in  before  you  apply  the  common  salt, 
makes  the  meat  tender;  but  it  is  not 
best  to  use  it  in  summer. 

Legs  of  mutton  are  good,  aired  in  the 
same  way  as  hams — six  pounds  salt, 
eight  ounces  saltpetre,  five  pints  molasses, 
will  make  pickle  enough  for  one  hundred 
pounds.  Small  legs  should  be  kept  in 
pickle  twelve  or  fifteen  days  j  large,  four 
or  five  weeks  ;  and  they  should  be  hung 
up  a  day  or  two  before  being  smoked. 
Lay  them  in  the  oven  on  crossed  sticks, 
and  make  a  fire  at  the  entrance  with 
cobs  or  walnut  bark,  or  chips,  which  im- 
part a  sweet  taste.  Smoke  the  smallest 
pieces  forty-eight  hours ;  the  large  legs 
four  or  five  days.  If  hung  till  thorough- 
ly dry,  the  mutton  mny  be  eaten  in  thin 
slices,  like  hung  beef.  When  legs  of 
meat  are  put  in  pickle,  the  thickest  part 
should  be  uppermost,  as  the  creature 
stood  while  living ;  also  when  hung  to 
dry;  thus  the  juices  of  the  meat  are  kept 
in.  Meat  should  be  turned  over  once  or 
twice  while  smoking. 

Hams  should  be  well  covered  in  paper 
bags,  and  put  in  a  chest  or  barrel,  with 
layers  of  charcoal  or  ashes  between. 
When  you  take  one  out  to  cut  for  use, 
put  it  away  in  a  dark  place,  well  covered! 


Let  there  be  a  place  for  every  article, 
and  when  not  in  use  let  every  article  be 
hi  its  place. 

Keep  every  utensil  ready  for  immediate 
use. 

The  stock  pot  should  never  be  suffered 
to  be  empty,  as  almost  any  meats  (save 
salt  meats)  or  fowls  make  stock;  the 
remnants  should  never  be  thrown  any- 
where but  into  the  stock  pot,  and  should 
too  much  stock  be  already  in  your  pos- 
session, boil  it  down  to  a  glaze:  waste 
is  thus  avoided. 

Keep  your  meat  in  a  cool,  dry  place ; 
your  fish  on  ice.  and  your  vegetables  on 
a  stone  floor  free  from  air. 

Cut  your  soap  when  it  comes  in,  and 
let  it  dry  slowly. 

Keep  your  sweet  herbs  in  paper  bags, 
each  bag  containing  only  one  description 
of  herb.  They  should  be  dried  in  the 
wind  and  not  in  the  sun,  and  when  order- 
ed in  a  receipt  should  be  cautiously  used, 
a  preponderance  in  any  seasoning 
spoils  it. 

When  oranges  or  lemons  are  used  for 
juice,  chop  down  the  peel,  put  them  in 
small  pots  and^tie  them  down  for  use. 

APPLES. — In  choosing  apples,  be  guided 


Apple  Peeler, 
by  the  weight ;  the  heaviest  are  the  best. 


HINTS   AND   MAXIMS. 


147 


and   those    should    always   be   selected 
which,  on  being  pressed  by  the  thumb 
yield  with  a  slight  crackling  noise.     Pre 
fer  large  apples  to  small,  for  waste  i 
saved  in  peeling  and  coring. 

Apples  should  be  kept  on  dry  straw 
in  a  dry  place,  and  pears  hung  up  by  the 
stalk. 

BATTER  for  fish,  meat,  fritters,  &c.— 
Prepare  it  with  fine  flour,  salt,  a  little  oil 
beer,  fvinegar,  or  white  wine,  and  the 
whites  of  eggs  beaten  up ;  when  of  a  pro- 
per thickness,  about  the  size  of  a  nutmeg 
it  will  drop  out  of  the  spoon  at  once 
Fry  in  oil  or  hog's  lard. 

CABROTS,  if  young,  need  only  be  wiped 
when  boiled— if  old,  they  must  be  scraped 
before  boiling.  Slice  them  into  a  dish, 
and  pour  over  them  melted  butter. 

CAULIFLOWEKS.  —  Cut  off  the  stalks, 
but  leave  a  little  of  the  green  on  ;  boil  in 
spring  water  with  a  little  salt  in  it :  they 
must  not  boil  too  fast. 

CELERY.— Very  little  is  sufficient  for 
soups,  as  the  flavor  is  very  predominating. 
It  should  be  particularly  cleanly  washed 
arid  curled  when  sent  to  table.  To  curl 
celery,  wash  well,  and  take  off  the  out- 
eide  stalks,  cut  it  to  a  ^proper  length, 
split  each  stalk  into  three  or  four  divi- 
sions with  a  large  needle,  then  place  the 
head  of  celery  in  spring  water  with  the 
root  uppermost,  and  let  it  remain  for 
four  or  five  hours — it  may  then  be  taste- 
fully arranged  on  the  dish. 

GAME  may  often  be  made  fit  for  eating 
when  it  seems  spoiled,  b}'  cleaning  it  and 
washing  with  vinegar  and  water.  Birds 
that  are  not  likely  to  keep,  should  be 
drawn,  cropped,  and  picked,  then  washed 
in  two  or  three  waters,  and  rubbed 
with  salt;  have  in  readiness  a  large 
saucepan  of  boiling  water,  and  plunge 
them  into  it  one  by  one,  drawing  them 
up  and  down  by  the  legs,  so  that  the  wa- 
ter may  pass  through  them.  Let  them 
stay  for  five  or  six  minutes,  then  hang 
them  up  in  a  cold  place  ;  when  they  are 


completely  drained,  well  salt  and  pepper 
the  insides,  and  thoroughly  wash  them 
before  roasting. 

GRAVIES  —The  skirts  of  beef  and  the 
kidney  will  make  quite  as  good  gravy  as 
any  other  meat,  if  prepared  in  the  same 
manner.  The  kidney  of  an  ox.  or  the 
milt,  makes  excellent  gravy,  cut  to  pieces 
and  prepared  as  other  meat,  and  so  with 
the  shank  end  of  mutton  that  has  been 
dressed,  if  much  gravy  is  not  required. 
The  shank  bones  of  mutton  add  greatly 
to  the  richness  of  gravies,  but  they  should 
be  first  well  soaked  and  scoured  clean. 
The  taste  of  gravies  is  improved  by  tar- 
ragon, but  it  should  be  sparingly  used 
immediately  before  serving. 

LARD  should  be  carefully  melted  in  a 
jar  put  in  a  kettle  of  water  and  boiled, 
and  run  into  bladders  that  have  been 
strictly  cleaned ;  the  bladders  should  not 
be  too  lar-e,  as  the  lard  will  become  rank 
if  the  air  gets  to  it.  While  melting  it, 
put  in  a  sprig  of  rosemary. 

MUSTARD  mixed  smooth  with  new 
milk,  and  a  little  cream  added,  will  keep; 
it  is  very  soft,  and  by  no  means  bitter. 

SAGO  should  soak  for  an  hour  in  wa- 
ter previous  to  using,  to  take  oft'  the 
earthy  taste. 

SUF.T  ma}'  be  kept  for  a  twelvemonth, 
thus:  choose  the  firmest  and  most  free 
from  skin  or  veins,  remove  all  traces  of 
these,  put  the  suet  in  a  saucepan  at  some 
distance  from  the  lire,  and  let  it  melt 
gradually ;  when  melted,  pour  it  into  a 
>an  of  cold  spring  water;  when  hard, 
vipe  it  dry,  fold  it  in  white  paper,  put  it 
nto  a  linen  bag,  and  keep  it  in  a  dry, 
300!  place ;  when  used,  it  must  be  scrap 
ed,  and  will  make  an  excellent  crust, 
ither  with  or  without  butter. 

TONGUE,  which  has  been  dried,  should 
>e  soaked  in  water  throe  or  four  hours. 
)ne  that  has  not  been  dried  will  re- 
uire  but  little  soaking;  put  it  in  cold 
vater,  and  boil  gently  till  tender. 


148 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


Raisin  wine  may  be  substituted  for 
sherry,  for  sweets  generally. 

Copper  vessels,  when  the  tinning  is 
worn  off,  must  never  be  used,  or  the 
poisoning  of  those  who  partake  of  what- 
ever may  have  been  cooked  in  them  is 
inevitable.  They  should  be  sent  to  be 
re-tinned  immediately  they  require  it. 

Keep  tapes  and  jelly  bags  clean,  or 
when  again  used  they  will  impart  an  un- 
pleasant flavor. 

All  soups  should  be  moderately  thin 
and  bright. 

Meats,  such  as  beef,  mutton,  and  veni- 
son, must  rather  be  underdone  than  over- 
done, excepting  veal  and  pork,  which  re- 
quire to  be  well  done. 

Fish  should  be  quite  done,  but  not 
overdone. 

Pastry  must  be  carefully  baked;  it 
should  be  sent  to  table  a  pale  gold  color. 
Onions  should  be  kept  on  ropes  in  a 
dry  place — a  specked  one  should  be  re- 
moved or  it  will  contaminate  the  others. 
Cold  water  cracks  hot  iron  infallibly. 
Pudding  towels  should  be  carefully 
washed,  and  kept  clean  in  a  dry  place. 
Put  a  clean  round  towel  on  the  roller 
quite  as  often  as  necessary. 

Be  very  particular  in  not  letting  your 
stocks  and  sauces  pass  over  two  days 
without  boiling  them  up,  and  be  careful 
to  stir  the  thick  soups  and  sauces  all  the 
time  they  are  on  the  fire,  and  change  all 
your  cold  meats  into  fresh  clean  dishes 
every  morning,  wiping  down  the  dressers 
and  shelves,  and  if  allowed  larding  cloths 
see  that  they  are  clenn.  Keep  your  lard- 
er door  shut,  free  from  dust  and  damp 
do  not  have  your  baked  paste  in  the 
larder,  but  in  your  kitchen  cupboard 
and  then  see  to  your  game,  wiping,  and 
peppering  and  gingering  your  venison 
arranging  the  game  which  requires  to  be 
dressed  first,  and  see  that  all  the  blood 
which  may  have  dropped  from  the  game 


or  venison  is  cleaned  from  the  dresserp 
and  flooring.  Then  see  to  the  vegetables, 
removing  all  stale  and  what  is  not  want- 
ed, giving  it  to  the  poor,  either  dressed 
n  some  way  or  uncooked ;  do  not  be  over- 
stocked, but  always  keep  a  little  reserve. 
Be  sure  to  look  well,  every  morning  to 
your  pickled  pork  and  hams,  keep  and 
rub  them  well,  and  turn  them,  marking 
;hose  to  be  used  first.  Your  fish  must  be 
ooked  to  and  well  cleaned  and  washed, 
and  if  intended  for  that  day's  dinner, 
kept  in  water  until  required;  if  not, 
Keep  it  on  the  marble  or  stones ;  your 
doors  should  always  be  shut. 

Clean  hands,  always  clean  hands. 

A  dirty  kitchen  is  a  disgrace  to  every 
one  connected  with  it. 

With  these  few  hints  we  wind  up  our 
remarks,  merely  adding  that  many  of  the 
receipts  given,  which  are  on  too  large  a 
scale  for  a  small  famil}7,  may  have  their 
proportions  equally  reduced,  and  an  ex- 
cellent dish  will  be  the  result.  In  some 
instances  also,  the  more  expensive  ingre- 
dients may  be  left  out  without  destroy- 
ing the  integrity  of  the  receipt,  discre- 
tion and  judgment  being  alone  required 
in  these  cases. 

In  conclusion,  the  mistress  of  the 
household  will  understand  that  the  well- 
being  of  her  establishment  depends  upon 
her  surveillance;  and  though  her  too  fre- 
quent presence  in  the  kitchen  would  be 


unnecessary  and  annoying  to  the  cook 


FOOD   FOK   THE  MONTHS. 


yet  she  should  not  be  deterred  from  vis 
iting  it  by  any  false  delicacy,  or  defer 
ence  to  an  absurd  custom  which  make 
it   vulgar  for  a  lady  to  visit  her  cook 
in   her  own   domains.      If  the   cook 
thrifty  and  clean,  she  will  be  glad  to  re 
ceive  the  praise  to  which  she  is  fairl 
entitled ;  if  dirty  and  careless,  it  is  very 
essential   that  the   lady  should  be  ac 
quainted  with  the  fact  in  order  to  remedy 
it  by  a  change. 


CHAPTER  XXIX. 


AETICLES    IN  SEASON     FOE    EACH   MONTH. 


JANUARY. 

Fish,— Eels,  flounders,  haddocks,  lam- 
preys, oysters,  whitings,  clams,  muscles, 
striped  bass,  salt  mackerel,  smoked  sal- 
mon, sardines,  anchovies,  fish  pickled 
and  soused. 

Meats. — Beef,  mutton,  fish,  pork,  ham, 
venison,  veal,  sausages,  &c. 

Poultry  and  game. — Capons,  fowls, 
ducks,  geese.  Scotch  grouse,  prairie  fowls, 
young  rabbits,  partridges,  pheasants}  pi- 
geons, wild  birds,  turkeys,  woodcock, 
snipe,  quails,  ducks — canvas  back,  red- 
head, broad  bill,  teal — bear's  meat,  jugged 
hare. 

Vegetables. — Winter  spinach,  turnips, 
potatoes,  sweet  potatoes,  rice,  celery, 
cabbage,  parsnips,  carrots,  dried  white 
beans,  beets,  dried  herbs,  garlic,  onions, 
shalots,  leeks,  mint,  mustard,  parsley, 
sage,  rosemary,  salsify,  thyme,  &c. 

Fruits. — Apples,  oranges,  dried  figs, 
imported  grapes,  almonds,  raisins,  dates, 
filberts,  prunes,  hard  nuts,  Brazil  and 
Madeira-nuts,  black-walnuts,  hickory- 
nuts,  peccan-nuts.  butternuts,  chestnuts. 


FEBRUARY. 


Fish.— Codfish. 


eels, 
10 


flounders,  had- 


docks, lamiyeys,  oysters,  smelts,  whiting* 
clams,  muscles,  striped  bass,  smoked  sal- 
mon, salt  mackerel,  sardines,  anchovies 
pickled  and  soused  fish. 

Meats.— Beet  mutton,  fresh  pork,  sau 
sages,  venison,  ham. 

Poultry  and  Game.— Yowls,  capons, 
ducks,  geese:  Scotch  grouse,  prairie  fowls, 
partridges,  rabbits,  pheasants,  pigeons, 
turkeys,  woodcock,  reed  birds,  quails, 
snipe,  ducks— canvas  back,  red  head, 
teal,  broad  bill,— hare,  bear's  meat. 

Vegetables.— Turnips,  potatoes,  sweet 
potatoes,  winter  spinach,  rice,  celery, 
cabbage,  parsnips,  carrots,  white  beans,' 
beets,  garlic,  onions,  shalots,  mint,  leeks, 
mustard,  parsley,  sage,  salsify,  thyme, 
dried  herbs. 

fruits. — Apples,  oranges,  figs,  import- 
ed grapes,  almonds,  raisins,  filberts,  dates, 
prunes,  hazel-nuts,  Brazil  and  Madeira- 
nuts,  black  walnuts,  hickory  nuts,  pec- 
can-nuts,  butternuts,  chestnuts. 


MARCH. 

Fish. — Codfish,  eels,  haddocks,  flound- 
ers, oysters,  clams,  whitings,  striped  bass 
perch,  smelts,  lampreys,  salt  mackerel, 
smoked  salmon,  sardines,  anchovies, 
pickled  and  soused  fish. 

Meats. — Bee^  mutton,  pork,  ham. 

Poultry  and  Game. — Fowls,    capons, 
ame  ducks,  geese,  Scotch  grouse,  prairie 
hens,  rabbits,  partridges,  pheasants,  pi- 
geons,   turkeys,  reed    birds,   woodcock, 
nipe,  quails,  hare,  bear's  meat. 

Vegetables. — Spinach  lettuces,  cresses, 
urnips,  potatoes,  sweet  potatoes,  rice, 
adishes,  celery,  cabbage,  parsnips,  carrots, 
white  beans,  beets,  garlic,  onions,  shalots, 
eeks,  salsify,  parsley,  sage,  thyme,  dried 
erbs. 

Fruits.— Apples,  oranges,  figs,  almonds, 
aisins,  filberts,  prunes,  hazel-nuts,  Brazil 
nd  Madeira-nuts,  hickory-nuts,  peccan- 
uts,  chestnuts,  dates. 


150 


THE   PRACTICAL    HOUSEKEEPER. 


APBIL. 

Fish. — Brook  trout,  codfish,  halibut, 
shad,  striped  bass,  eels,  lobsters,  oysters, 
perch,  roach,  smelts,  clams,  shrimps, 
cray,  small  fish. 

Meats. — Beef,  mutton,  veal,  ham. 

Poultry  and  Game. — Spring  chickens, 
fowls,  capon,  turkeys,  ducks,  Scotch 
grouse,  prairie  hens,  partridges,  pheasants, 
pigeons,  quails,  woodcock,  snipe,  bear's 
meat. 

Vegetables. — Lettuces,  spinach,  turnips, 
cresses,  potatoes,  rice,  radishes,  parsnips, 
carrots,  white  beans,  beets,  garlic,  onions, 
shalots,  leeks,  mint,  mustard,  'parsley, 
sage,  salsify,  thyme,  dried  herbs,  Jerusa- 
lem artichokes. 

Fruits. — Apples,  oranges,  figs,  almonds, 
raisins,  prunes,  dates,  &c. 

MAY. 

Fish. — Terrapin,  fresh  salmon,  turtle, 
trout,  codfish,  halibut,  perch,  shad,  carp, 
striped  bass,  eels,  English  soles,  soft 
crabs,  lobsters,  salmon,  roach,  smelts, 
shrimps,  cray  fish,  prunes,  salt  and 
smoked  fish. 

Meats. — Beef,  mutton,  veal,  ham. 

Poultry  and  Game. — Spring  chickens, 
fowls,  capons,  Scotch  grouse,  prairie  hens, 
bear's  meat. 

Vegetables. — Asparagus,  lettuces,  cress- 
es, mushrooms,  spinach,  turnips,  pota- 
toes, radishes,  rice,  parsnips,  carrots, 
white  beans,  onions,  mint,  mustard,  pars- 
ley, sage,  thyme,  salsify,  Jerusalem  arti- 
chokes, dry  herbs. 

Fruits. — Apples,  oranges,  figs,  almonds, 
raisins,  prunes,  dates. 

JUNE. 

Fish. — Terrapin,  fresh  salmon,  turtle, 
trout,  codfish,  halibut,  perch,  pickerel, 
fresh  mackerel,  shad,  carp,  sea-bass, 
striped  bass,  eels,  fresh  herring,  king 
fish,  English  soles,  soft  crabs,  lobsters, 
salmon-trout,  sturgeon. 


Meat. — Beef,  mutton,  lamb,  veal,  ham 
salt  pork. 

Poultry  and  Game. — Spring  chickens, 
fowls,  capons,  bear's  meat,  grouse,  prairie 
fowl. 

Vegetables.  —  Asparagus,  green  peas, 
Lima  beans,  white  beans,  mushrooms, 
lettuces,  cresses,  spinach,  celery,  potatoes, 
radishes,  rice,  carrots,  onions,  garlic, 
mint,  mustard,  parsley,  sage,  thyme,  sal- 
shy,  Jerusalem  artichokes,  dry  herbs. 

Fruits. — Strawberries,  cherries,  cur- 
rants, oranges,  figs,  almonds,  raisins, 
prunes,  dates. 

JULY. 

Fish. — Terrapin,  turtle,  carp,  cod,  cray 
fish,  eels,  flounders,  fresh  salmon,  herring, 
lobsters,  fresh  mackerel,  perch,  pickerel, 
salmon-trout,  trout,  sea-bass,  striped 
bass,  halibut,  English  soles,  blue  fish, 
king  fish,  soft  crabs,  sturgeon. 

Meats. — Beef,  lamb,  mutton,  salt  pork. 

Poultry  and  Game. — Chickens,  fowls, 
green  geese,  pigeons,  plovers. 

Vegetables.  —  Artichokes,  asparagus, 
string  beans,  Lima  and  white  beans,  peas 
of  some  kinds,  carrots,  celery,  chervil, 
cucumbers,  endive,  herbs  of  all  kinds, 
lettuces,  mint,  mushrooms,  potatoes, 
purslane,  cresses,  radishes,  salads  of  all 
sorts,  salsify,  spinach,  turnips,  green 
corn,  tomatoes,  succory,  squashes,  egg- 
plant, cold-slaw. 

Fruits.  —  Apricots,  currants,  straw- 
berries, raspberries,  blackberries,  goose- 
berries, cherries,  nectarines,  peaches,  hot- 
house grapes,  melons  of  various  kinds, 
oranges,  almonds,  raisins,  prunes,  figs, 
fresh  figs,  pine  apples,  damsons,  plums. 

AUGUST. 

Fish. — Terrapin,  turtle,  perch,  codfish, 
pickerel,  carp,  eels,  fresh  salmon,  salmon- 
trout,  brook-trout,  lobster,  fresh  .mack- 
erel, striped  bass,  sea-bass,  English  soles, 
soft  crabs,  halibut,  cray-fish,  blue-fish, 


FOOD   FOR   THE   MONTHS. 


151 


king-fish,  sturgeon,  smelts,  roach,  black- 
bas>s. 


Meats. — Beef,  mutton,  lamb,  veal,  salt 
pork,  ham. 

Poultry  and  Game. — Chickens,  fowls, 
ducks,  green  geese,  plovers,  bear's  meat. 

Vegetables. — Artichokes,  string- beans, 
lima  and  white  beans,  carrots,  celery, 
chervil,  cucumbers,  endive,  herbs  of  all 
kinds,  lettuces,  mint,  potatoes,  purslane, 
radishes,  cresses,  salads,  oyster-plant, 
spinach,  turnips,  green  corn,  tomatoes, 
succory,  squashes,  cold  slaw,  egg  plant. 

Fruits.  —  Raspberries,  blackberries, 
peaches,  nectarines,  green  grapes,  plums, 
gooseberries,  apricots,  harvest  apples, 
mulberries,  melons  of  various  kinds,  hot- 
house grapes,  pears  of  different  sorts, 
summer  pippins,  green  gages. 

SEPTEMBER. 

Fish.  —  Terrapin,  turtle,  perch,  cod, 
pickerel,  eels,  fresh  salmon,  salmon-trout, 
trout,  lobster,  striped  bass,  sea-bass, 
black  bass,  English  soles,  soft  crabs,  hali- 
but, cray-fish,  blue-fish,  king-fish,  smelts, 
sturgeon,  roach. 

Meats— ~Beef,  mutton,  lamb,  veal,  ham, 
salt  beef  and  pork. 

Poultry  and  Game.— Chickens,  fowls, 
ducks,  green  geese,  meadow-larks,  bear's 
meat. 

Vegetables.  —  Artichokes,  white  and 
lima  beans,  carrots,  celery,  chervil,  cu- 
cumbers, herbs  of  all  kinds,  lettuces, 
mint,  potatoes,  purslane,  radishes,  salads 
oyster  plant,  spinach,  turnips,  beets 
green  corn,  tomatoes,  succory 
cold  slaw,  egg  plant. 

Fruits.— Green  grapes,  magnum  bo- 
num  plum,  Palmer  and  Columbia  grapes 
egg  plums,  gooseberries, 
peaches,  apples,  grapes  of  different  varie- 
ties, pears  of  all  kinds. 

OCTOBER. 
Fish.— Terrapin,  salmon,  striped  bass, 


sea-bass,  blue-fish,  salmon-trout,  lobsters, 
codfish,  halibut,  black-fish,  pickerel,  carp, 
eels,  soft  crabs,  perch,  trout,  oysters. 

Meats. — Beef,  mutton,  pork,  veal,  veni- 
son, lamb. 

Poultry  and  Game. — Meadow-larks, 
chickens,  capons,  ducks,  turkeys,  par- 
tridges, wild  pigeon,  English  snipe,  grouse 
or  prairie-hens,  pheasants,  quails,  wild 
ducks,  hares,  rabbits,  bear's  meat. 

Vegetables.  —  Artichokes,  cauliflower, 
>roccoli,  succory,  carrots,  celery,  leeks, 
mions,  parsnips,  potatoes,  spinach,  tur- 
iips,  egg-plant,  lettuce,  tomatoes,  car- 
ots,  cabbage,  rice,  cauliflower,  artichokes, 
iclery,  leeks,  onions,  parsnips,  sweet  po- 
tatoes, potatoes,  radishes,  salads,  savoys, 
winter  spinach,  tomatoes,  turnips,  suc- 
jory,  beets,  oyster-plant,  egg-plant,  dry 
icrbs. 

Fruits. — Late  peaches,  apples,  filberts, 
almonds,  hazel-nuts,  grapes,  quinces,  wal- 
nuts, hickory-nuts,  chestnuts,  chincopins, 
peccan-nuts. 


NOVEMBER. 

Fish* — Eels,  oysters,  clams,  codfish, 
haddock,  lampreys,  whitings,  muscles, 
striped  bass,  salt  mackerel,  smoked  sal- 
mon, sardines,  anchovies,  &c. 

Meats.  —  Beef,  mutton,  lamb,  pork, 
venison. 

Poultry  and  Game.— Chickens,  fowls, 
capons,  ducks,  geese,  Scotch  grouse, 
prairie-hens,  hares,  rabbits,  partridges, 
pheasants,  pigeons,  turkeys,  reed-birds, 
woodcock,  snipe,  quails,  canvas-back, 
red-head,  broadbill,  teal-ducks,  meadow- 
larks,  bear's  meat. 

Vegetables.— Celery,  cauliflower,  cab- 
radishes,  winter-spinach,  turnips, 


potatoes,  sweet  potatoes,  rice,  parsnips, 
carrots,  dry  white  beans,   beets,   dried 
herbs,  garlic,  onions,  shalots,  leeks,  mint, 
mustard,  parsley,  sage,  thyme,  salsify. 
fruits.— Lute  peaches,  apples,  oranges, 


152 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


almonds,  raisins,  filberts,  prunes,  figs, 
hazelnuts,  Brazil  and  Madeira  nuts,  dates, 
walnuts,  hickory-nuts  and  chestnuts. 

DECEMBER. 

Pith. — Oysters,  clams,  eels,  haddock, 
lampreys,  whitings,  muscles,  striped- 
bass,  salt  mackerel,  smoked  salmon,  sar- 
dines, anchovies,  &c. 

Meats.  —  Beef,  mutton,  pork,  veal, 
venison. 

Poultry  and  Game. — Fowls,  turkeys, 
capons,  ducks,  geese,  Scotch  grouse,  prai- 


rie-hens, hares,  rabbits,  partridges, 
pheasants,  pigeons,  reed-birds,  woodcock 
snipe,  quails,  ducks,  canvas  back,  red- 
head, broadbill,  teal, — bear's  meat. 

Vegetables. — Cauliflower,  celery,  cab- 
bage, winter  spinach,  turnips,  potatoes, 
sweet  potatoes,  rice,  parsnips,  carrots, 
dry  beans,  beets,  dried  herbs,  garlic, 
onions,  shalots,  leeks,  mint,  mustard, 
parsley,  sage,  thyme,  salsify. 

Fruits. — Apples,  oranges,  bananas,  al- 
monds, raisins,  filberts,  prunes,  figs, 
hazelnuts,  Brazil  and  Madeira  nuts,  dates, 
walnuts,  hickory-nuts,  chestnuts. 


PAKT  SECOND. 


RECEIPTS 


RECEIPTS. 


SOUPS. 


THERE  is  no  dish,  perhaps,  that  comes 
to  table  which  gives  such  general  satis- 
faction as  well  prepared  soup ;  let  the 
appetite  be  vigorous  or  delicate,  an  ex- 
cellent soup  will  always  prove  grateful 
to  it ;  and  as  this  is  beyond  contradic- 
tion, it  should  be  the  province  of  the 
cook  to  be  always  in  a  position  to  pro- 
duce it  at  a  short  notice. 

There  should  always  be  plenty  of  dried 
herbs  in  the  store  closet ,  these  may  be 
purchased  chiefly  in  quantities  at  the  be- 
ginning of  the  autumn,  of  any  market- 
gardener.  Herbs  may  be  very  well  kept, 
as  indeed  they  are  usually,  in  paper  bags ; 
they  should  he  all  labelled.  When  time 
is  an  important  object,  the  necessity  for 
this  is  obvious — they  are  always  to  be 
had  when  wanted,  and  the  bag  should  be 
immediately  replaced  after  using. 

There  should  be  a  saucepan,  or  a  kettle 
of  iron  well  tinned,  kept  for  soup  only  ; 
the  lid  should  fit  tightly;  one  will  be 
found  to  answer  all  purposes,  being  es- 
pecially useful  as  a  "  stock-pot."  The 
inexperienced  reader  will  understand  by 
the  term  "  stock-pot,"  that  soups  being 
of  two  kinds,  brown  and  white,  have  dif- 
ferent foundations,  that  of  brown  being 
always  beef,  and  that  of  white,  veal; 
there  are  many  ingredients  in  each,  and 
it  is  the  various  articles  which,  when  put 
together,  are  called  "  stock,"  hence  the 


soup  utensil  is  technically  termed  the 
stock-pot. 

When  fat  remains  on  any  soup,  a  tea- 
cupful  of  flour  and  water  mixed  quite 
smooth,  and  boiled  in  it,  will  make  it 
rise  as  scum,  when  it  may  be  taken  off. 

If  richness  or  greater  consistency  be 
wanted,  a  good  lump  of  butter  mixed 
with  flour,  and  boiled  in  the  soup,  'will 
give  either  of  these  qualities. 

Long  boiling  is  necessary  to  give  the 
full  flavor  of  the  ingredients,  therefore 
time  should  be  allowed  for  soups  and 
gravies.  Skim  frequently  and  simmer 
slowly;  but  do  not  let  the  broth  cool 
until  it  is  completely  made. 

Be  sparing  in  the  use  of  pepper,  salt, 
and  spices. 

If  onions  are  too  strong,  boil  a  turnip 
with  them,  and  it  will  render  them 
mild. 

Do  not  keep  either  soups  or  gravies  in 
any  vessel  of  tin  or  copper ;  and  in  stir- 
ring soup,  do  it  always  with  a  wooden 
spoon. 

Arrow-root,  or  the  mere  farina  or 
flour  of  the  potato,  is  far  better  for  the 
thickening  of  soups  than  wheaten  flour. 

The  basis  of  all  well-made  soups,  is 
composed  of  what  English  cooks  call 
"  Stoclc,"  or  broth,  made  from  all  sorts 
of  meat,  bones  and  the  remains  of  poul- 
try or  game  ;  all  of  which  may  be  put  to- 


156 


THE  PRACTICAL  HOUSEKEEPER. 


gether  and  stewed  down  in  the  "  Stock- 
pot  ;  "  the  contents  of  which  are,  by  the 
French,  termed  Consomme.  This  is  chiefly 
used  for  the  preparation  of  brown  or  gravy 
soups :  that  intended  for  white  soups  being 
rather  differently  compounded,  though 
made  in  nearly  the  same  manner. 

To  the  medley  of  ingredients,  add 
carrots  cut  in  thin  slices,  herbs,  onions, 
pepper,  and  salt ;  when  it  has  stewed 
slowly  for  a  short  time,  pour  in  the  boil- 
ing water  in  proportion  to  the  quantity 
of  meat  and  soup  required ;  then  stew  it 
until  it  is  of  a  rich  consistency,  take 
it  from  the  fire,  let  it  cool,  remove  the 
pot. 

If  required  the  following  day,  care 
should  be  taken  that  the  deposit  or  sedi- 
ment is  removed,  as  also  the  fat  previous 
to  warming ;  if  kept  long  the  pans  must 
be  changed  ;  there  is  as  much  danger  in 
red  glazed  earthenware  as  in  metal  pans ; 
the  latter  should  never  be  employed  to 
keep  gravies  in,  if  possible.  Wherever 
greater  richness  is.  required,  it  may  be 
obtained  by  the  addition  of  the  jelly  of 
cow-heel,  or  a  lump  of  butter  and  flour. 

Remember,  soup  is  richer  and  better 
for  being  made  the  previous  day,  or  even 
two  or  three  days  previously  to  its  being 
required,  if  it  be  warmed  each  day ;  to 
be  really  good  it  must  be  well  stewed. 

Seasonings  for  Soups. — Spices  should 
be  put  whole  into  soups ;  allspice  is  one 
of  the  best,  though  it  is  not  so  highly 
esteemed  as  it  deserves.  Seville  orange- 
juice  has  a  finer  and  milder  acid  than  le- 
mon-juice ;  but  both  should  be  used  with 
caution.  Sweet  herls,  for  soups  and 
broths,  consist  of  knotted  marjoram, 
thyme,  and  parsley,— a  sprig  of  each  tied 
together.  The  older  and  drier  onions 
are,  the  stronger  their  flavor;  in  dry 
seasons,  also,  they  are  very  strong :  the 
quantity  should  be  proportioned  accord- 
ingly. Although  celery  may  be  gener- 
ally obtained  for  soup  throughout  the 
year,  it  may  be  useful  to  know,  that 


dried  celery-seed  is  an  excellent  substi- 
tute. It  is  so  strongly  flavored,  that  a 
drachm  of  whole  seed  will  enrich  half  a 
gallon  of  soup  as  much  as  two  heads  of 
celery.  Mushrooms  are  much  used,  and 
when  they  cannot  be  obtained,  fresh 
mushroom  ketchup  will  answer  the  pur- 
pose, but  it  should  be  used  very  sparing- 
ly, as  nothing  is  more  difficult  to  remove 
than  the  over- flavoring  of  ketchup.  A 
piece  of  butter,  in  proportion  to  the 
liquid,  mixed  with  flour,  and  added  to 
the  soup,  when  boiling,  will  enrich  and 
thicken  it.  The  finer  flavoring  articles, 
as  ketchup,  spices,  wines,  juice,  &c., 
should  not  be  added  till  the  soup  is  near- 
ly done.  A  good  proportion  of  wine  is  a 
gill  to  three  pints  of  soup  ;  this  is  as 
much  as  can  be  used  without  the  vinous 
flavor  predominating,  which  is  never  the 
case  in  well  made  soups.  Wine  should 
be  added  late  in  the  making,  as  it  evapo- 
rates very  quickly  in  boiling.  Be  cau- 
tious of  over-seasoning  soups  with  pep- 
per, salt,  spices,  or  herbs,  for  it  is  a  fault 
that  can  seldom  be  remedied  ;  any  provi- 
sion over-salted  is  spoiled.  A  teaspoon- 
ful  of  sugar  is  a  good  addition  in  flavor- 
ing soups.  Vermicelli  is  added  to  soups 
in  the  proportion  of  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
for  a  tureen  of  soup  for  eight  persons ; 
it  should  be  broken,  then  blanched  in 
cold  water,  and  is  better  if  stewed  in 
broth  before  it  is  put  into  the  soup. 

MEAT  SOUPS. 

1. STOCK    FOR    WHITE    SOUPS. 

This  is  a  soup,  the  foundation  of  which 
is  veal, — the  knuckle,  the  scrag,  or  calf's 
head  being  the  best  meat  for  the  purpose, 
— an  old  fowl,  a  little  ham,  or  bacon,  mut- 
ton, sheep's  head,  &c.,  nearly  the  same 
ingredients  as  for  brown  soups,  save  that 
there  must  not  be  much  beef,  and  the 
proportion  of  ham  and  bacon  smaller  in 
the  latter  than  former,  and  when  made 
for  white  sauce,  care  must  be  taken  to 
leave  out  the  pepper. 


MEAT    SOUPS. 


157 


2. BROWN    STOCK. 

Put  ten  pounds  of  shin  of  beef,  six 
pounds  of  knuckle  of  veal,  and  some 
sheep's-trotters  or  a  cow-heel,  in  a  close- 
ly covered  stewpan,  with  very  little 
water  to  draw  out  the  gravy  very  gently5 
and  allow  it  nearly  to  dry  in  until  it  be- 
comes brown.  Then  pour  in  sufficient 
boiling  water  to  entirely  cover  the  meat, 
and  let  it  boil  slowly,  skimming  it  fre- 
quently ;  Reasoning;  it  with  whole  peppers 
and  salt,  roots,  herbs,  and  vegetables  of 
any  kind.  That  being  done,  let  it  boil 
gently  five  or  six  hours,  pour  the  broth 
from  off  the  meat,  and  let  it  stand  dur- 
ing the  night  to  cool.  The  following 
morning  take  off  the  scum  and  fat,  and 
put  it  away  in  a  stone  jar  for  use*, 

Or: — Put  into  a  stewpan  a  piece  of 
beef,  a  piece  of  veal,  an  old  fowl,  some 
slices  of  ham  or  bacon,  and  all  the  trim- 
mings of  meat  that  can  be  obtained  ;  add 
to  these  materials,  where  such  things  are 
abundant,  partridge,  grouse,  or  other 
game,  which  may  not  be  sufficiently 
young  and  tender  for  the  spit.  Put  a 
little  water  to  it,  just  enough  to  cover 
half  the  meat,  and  stew  very  gently  over 
a  slow  fire  or  steam  apparatus.  When 
the  top  piece  is  done  through,  6over  the 
meat  with  boiling  water  or  broth;  sea- 
son with  spices  and  vegetables ;  stew  all 
together  for  eight  or  ten  hours  in  an  un- 
covered stewpan ;  skim  off  the  fat,  and 
strain  the  liquor  through  a  fine  sieve. 

Brown  stock  may  be  made  from  an  ox- 
cheek,  ox-tail,  brisket,  flank,  or  shin  of 
beef;  which  wfll,  either  together  or  sepa- 
rately, make  a  strong  jelly  if  stewed 
down  with  a  piece  of  ham  or  lean  bacon, 
in  the  proportion  of  one-half  pound  to 
every  seven  pounds  of  meat;  but  the 
shin  of  beef  alone  will  afford  a  stronger 
and  better  flavor. 

This  stock  may  also  be  reduced  to  a 
glaze  by  boiling  the  skimmed  liquor  as 
fast  as  possible  in  a  newly  tinned  stew- 


pan, until  it  becomes  of  the  desired  con- 
sistence and  of  a  good  brown  color ;  tak- 
"ng  care  at  the  same  time  to  prevent  it 
from  burning. 

3. — BROWN    GRAVY   SOUP. 

The  meat  used  for  making  this  soup 
should  be  quite  fresh,  and  of  the  common 
gravy  beef;  if  the  shin  be  used,  break 
the  bones,  as  the  marrow  will  add  to  its 
richness. 

Take  seven  to  eight  pounds  of  the 
meat,  cut  a  small  portion  of  it  into  thick 
pieces  and  put  it  with  three  or  four  large 
sliced  onions  into  a  close  stewpan,  with  a 
little  butter,  until  fried  to  a  fine  brown. 
That  done,  add  a  shank  of  ham,  just 
cover  the  meat  with  cold  water — say  a 
couple  of  quarts — and  let  it  simmer  by 
the  fire  for  at  least  three  hours ;  during 
which  time  it  should  not  be  allowed  to 
boil,  but,  when  coming  to  that  point, 
check  it  with  cold  water,  and  skim  it. 
As  the  pores  of  the  meat  will  then  be 
opened,  and  the  gravy  drawn,  throw  hi 
three  quarts  of  warm  water,  along  with 
a  handful  or  one  quarter  ounce  each  of 
black  pepper,  allspice,  and  salt,  as  well  as 
a  bundle  of  sweet  herbs,  a  few  cloves,  a 
couple  of  shalots,  two  or  three  middling- 
sized  carrots  and  turnips  (the  latter  an 
hour  afterwards),  together  with  a  couple 
of  heads  of  celery,  and  allow  the  whole 
to  boil  slowly  until  the  meat  is  done  to 
rags,  and  the  vegetables  become  tender. 
Then  strain  it  off,  and  let  it  stand  during 
the  night.  Remove  the  fat  on  the  fol- 
lowing day,  set  any  portion  of  it  on  the 
fire  an  hour  before  dinner,  and,  when 
thoroughly  heated,  season  it  with  mush- 
room or  walnut  ketchup,  and  send  it  up 
with  a  plate  of  toasted  bread,  cut  into 
small  square  pieces,  without  crust. 

You  will  thus  form  a  gallon  to  five  or 
six  quarts  of  strong  soup,  according  to 
the  quality  of  the  meat ;  but  as  it  is  a 
winter  soup,  it  will  bear  keeping,  and, 
if  served  more  than  once,  the  flavor 


158 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


may  be  varied  by  the  addition  of  differ- 
ent sorts  of  ingredients,  as  for  instance 
— first,  plain  gravy ;  secondly,  gravy  and 
vegetables ;  and  thirdly,  vermicelli :  or 
if  only  one-half  or  a  third  part  of  the 
quantity  be  wanted,  it  maj7  be  prepared 
in  the  same  manner  by  proportionally 
reducing  the  materials.  It  may  be  also 
flavored  with  red  wine. 

4. — SOYER'S  STOCK  FOR  ALL  KINDS  OF 
SOUP. 

Procure  a  knuckle  of  veal  about  six 
pounds  in  weight,  which  cut  into  pieces 
about  the  size  of  an  egg,  as  also  half  a 
pound  of  lean  ham  or  bacon ;  then  rub  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  upon  the 
bottom  of  the  stewpan  (capable  of  hold- 
ing about  two  gallons),  into  which  put 
the  meat  and  bacon,  with  half  a  pint  of 
water,  two  ounces  of  salt,  three  middle- 
sized  onions,  with  two  cloves  in  each, 
one  turnip,  a  carrot,  half  a  leek,  and  half 
a  head  of  celery :  put  the  cover  upon 
the  stewpan,  which  place  over  a  sharp 
fire,  occasionally  stirring  round  its  con- 
tents with  a  wooden  spoon,  until  the 
bottom  of  the  stewpan  is  covered  with  a 
white  thickish  glaze,  which  will  lightly 
adhere  to  the  spoon ;  fill  up  the  stewpan 
with  cold  water,  and  when  upon  the  point 
of  boiling,  draw  it  to  the  corner  of  the 
fire,  where  it  must  gently  simmer  for 
three  hours,  carefully  skimming  off 
every  particle  of  grease  and  scum ;  pass 
your  stock  through  a  fine  hair  sieve,  and 
it  is  ready  for  use  when  required. 

The  above  will  make  a  delicious  broth 
for  all  kinds  of  clear  soups,  and  of  course 
for  thick  soups  or  purees ;  by  boiling  it 
rather  faster  about  five  minutes  before 
passing,  you  will  be  better  enabled  to 
take  off  every  particle  of  grease  .  from 
the  surface.  In  making  a  stock  of  beef 
proceed  as  above,  but  allow  double  the 
time  to  simmer ;  mutton  or  lamb',  if  any 
trimmings,  might  also  be  used ;  if  beef, 
use  seven  pounds ;  if  mutton,  eight ;  or 


lamb,  seven ;  of  course  bones  are  all  in- 
cluded ;  with  care,  this  broth  would  be 
quite  clear.  To  give  a  little  color,  as 
required  for  all  clear  soups,  use  a  little 
brown  gravy  or  browning,  but  never  at- 
tempt to  brown  it  by  letting  it  color  at 
the  bottom  of  the  stewpan,  for  in  that 
case  you  would  destroy  the  greater  part 
of  the  osmazome. 

5. ANOTHER  WAY,  MORE  ECONOMICAL. 

Instead  of  cutting  up  the  knuckle  of 
veal  so  small,  cut  it  in  four  or  five  pieces 
only,  and  leave  the  bacon  in  one  piece ; 
then,  when  the  broth  is  passed,  take  out 
the  veal,  which  is  very  excellent  served 
with  a  little  of  the  broth  for  gravy,  and 
the  bacon  with  a  few  greens  upon  another 
dish.  This  is  as  I  always  eat  it  myself ; 
but>  some  persons  may  probably  prefer  a 
little  parsley  and  butter  sauce  or  piquant 
sauce,  served  with  it.  Should  any  of  the 
veal  be  left  until  cold,  it  might  be  cut 
into  thin  slices,  and  gradually  warmed 
in  either  of  the  before-mentioned  sauces. 
Should  you  make  your  stock  from  the 
leg  or  shin  of  beef,  stew  it  double  the 
time,  preserve  the  vegetables  boiled  in 
the  stock,  and  serve  with  beef,  or  serve 
the  beef  with  some  nice  sharp  sauce 
over  i  the  remainder,  if  cold,  may  also 
be  hashed  in  the  ordinary  way.  If  of 
mutton,  and  you  have  used  the  scrags  of 
the  neck,  the  breast,  head,  or  the  chump 
of  the  loin,  keep  them  in  as  large  pieces 
as  possible  ;  and,  when  done,  serve  with 
a  few  mashed  turnips,  and  caper  sauce, 
separately ;  if  any  remaining  until  cold, 
mince  it.  Lamb  would  be  seldom  used 
for  stock,  being  much  too  expensive ;  but 
in  case  of  an  abundance,  which  may 
sometimes  happen  in  the  country,  pro- 
ceed the  same  as  for  mutton. 

6. — SOYER'S  BROWN  GRAVIES. 
Rub  an  ounce  of  butter  over  the  bot- 
tom of   a  stewpan   capable   of  holding 
about  three  quarts ;  have  ready  peeled 


MEAT   SOUPS. 


159 


four  onions,  cut  them  into  thick  slices, 
with  which  cover  the  bottom  of  the 
stewpan;  over  these  lay  about  three 
pounds  of  beef  from  the  leg  or  shin, 
cut  into  thin  slices,  with  the  bone  chop- 
ped very  small ;  add  a  small  carrot,  a 
turnip  cut  in  slices,  and  a  couple  of 
cloves;  set  the  stewpan  upon  a  gentle 
fire  for  ten  minutes,  shaking  it  round 
occasionally  to  prevent  burning;  after 
which  let  it  go  upon  a  slow  fire  for  up- 
wards of  an  hour,  until  the  bottom  is 
covered  with  a  blackish  glaze,  but  not 
burnt ;  when  properly  done,  and  ready 
for  filling  up,  you  will  perceive  the  fat 
that  runs  from  the  meat  quite  clear ;  fill 
up  the  stewpan  with  cold  water,  add  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt ;  and  when  upon  the 
point  of  boiling,  set  it  on  a  corner  of  the 
fire,  where  let  it  simmer  gently  about  an 
hour,  skimming  off  all  the  fat  and  scum 
which  may  rise  to  the  surface;  when 
done  pass  it  through  a  fine  sieve  into  a 
basin,  and  put  by  to  use  for  the  follow- 
ing purposes  : — For  every  kind  of  roast 
meat,  poultry,  or  game  especially ;  also, 
to  give  a  good  color  to  soups  and  sauces. 
This  gravy  will  keep  several  days,  by 
boiling  it  every  other  day.  Although 
beef  is  the  most  proper  meat  for  the 
above  purpose,  it  may  be  made  of  veal, 
mutton,  lamb,  or  even  with  fresh  pork, 
rabbits,  or  poultry. 

7.— SOYEE'S  GLAZE 

Is  an  almost  indispensable  article  in  a 
cuisine  ~bourgeoise,  and  should  be  kept  by 
all  persons  in  the  middle  classes  of  life, 
the  advantage  being  that  it  will  keep  for 
months  together,  is  very  simple  to  make, 
and  is  always  useful  in  cookery,  however 
humble ;  in  fact,  with  it  you  can  dress 
a  very  good  dinner  with  very  little 
trouble. 

Make  a  stock  omitting  the  salt,  which, 
when  done,  pass  through  a  cloth  into  a 
basin  ;  then  fill  the  stewpan  up  a  second 
time  with  hot  water,  and  let  it  boil  four 


lours  longer  to  obtain  all  the  succulence 
from  the  meat,  then  pass  it  through  u 
cloth  the  same  as  the  first ;  then  pour 
)oth  stocks  in  a  large  stewpan  together, 
set  it  over  the  fire,  and  let  it  boil  as  fast 
as  possible,  leaving  a  large  spoon  in,  to 
stir  occasionally  and  prevent  its  boiling 
over ;  reduced  to  about  three  pints,  pour 
t  into  a  smaller  stewpan,  set  again  to 
boil  at  the  corner,  skimming  well  if  re- 
quired ;  when  reduced  to  a  quart,  place 
t  quite  over  the  fire,  well  stirring  with 
a  wooden  spoon  until  forming  a  thickish 
glaze  (which  will  adhere  to  the  spoon) 
of  a  fine  yellowish-brown  color :  pour  it 
into  a  basin,  or,  if  for  keeping  any  time, 
into  a  long  bladder,  from  which  cut  a 
slice  and  use  where  directed. 

8.-BEOWNING  FOE  SOUPS. 

Take  two  ounces  of  coarse  brown 
sugar,  and  pour  upon  it  some  thyme 
water ;  place  it  on  the  fire  till  it  becomes 
burnt.  Or,  take  two  ounces  of  powdered 
lump-sugar,  and  half  an  ounce  of  fresh 
butter ;  put  them  together  in  a  frying- 
pan,  and  keep  on  the  fire  till  the  mixture 
becomes  a  chocolate  brown,  then  add 
three  table -spoonfuls  of  port  wine,  and 
two  wine-glassfuls  of  elder  wine,  six 
shalots.  half  a  dram  of  mace,  a  dram  of 
allspice,  a  dram  of  black  pepper,  half  an 
ounce  of  salt,  two  ounces  of  ketchup, 
and  an  ounce  of  fresh  lemon  juice.  Boil 
all  together,  let  the  liquor  stand  to  set- 
tle, pour  off  the  clear  liquor,  bottle,  and 
cork  tight.  Or,  take  some  sugar,  white 
or  brown,  place  it  in  an  iron  spoon,  heat 
until  liquid,  and  then  drop  into  half  a 
pint  of  water;  repeat  until  sufficiently 
brown. 

9. — PORTABLE   SOUP. 

There  are  many  advantages  connected 
with  this  soup,  which  will  present  them- 
selves to  the  lady  housekeeper,  its  con- 
stant readiness  for  use,  its  forming  an 
excellent  stock  for  gravies,  sauces,  or 


160 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


soups ;  a  few  minutes  will  suffice  to  make' 
a  basin  of  soup  from  it. 

.  Take  three  pounds  of  beef,  a  shin  of 
beef,  the  bones  of  which  break,  a  cow- 
heel  and  two  small  knuckles  of  veal,  put 
them  in  a  stewpan  and  add  as  much 
water  as  will  barely  cover  them,  put  in 
three  onions  and  seasoning  to  taste,  stew 
the  meat  to  ribbons,  strain  and  then  put 
it  in  the  coldest  place  you  can  command, 
when  thoroughly  cold  take  off  the  fat 
and  boil  it  fast  in  a  stewpan  without  the 
lid  on  a  quick  fire,  let  it  boil  and  keep  it 
stirred  for  at  least  eight  hours,  pour  it 
into  a  pan  and  let  it  stand  twenty-four 
hours,  then  take  your  largest  lip-basin 
and  turn  the  soup  into  it,  boil  sufficient 
water  in  the  stewpan  to  reach  as  high 
outside  the  basin  which  is  placed  in  it  as 
the  soup  is  inside,  but  do  not  let  any 
bubble  into  the  basin,  keep  the  water 
boiling  until  the  water  is  reduced  to  a 
good  consistency  ;  it  will  be  then  done ; 
it  should  then  be  poured  into  small  jelly 
pots,  or  in  saucers,  so  as  to  form  cakes 
when  cold,  and  is  best  preserved  in  tin 
canisters  put  in  dry  cool  places. 

This  soup  may  receive  various  flavors 
of  herbs  or  any  thing  else,  by  boiling 
the  herbs  or  other  ingredients,  and  strain- 
ing the  simples  noted  through  water, 
making  it  boil  and  then  melting  the  soup 


in  it. 


10. — WHITE   STOCK. 


Take  scrag  or  knuckle  of  veal,  ox-heel, 
or  calf's  head,  together  with  an  old  fowl 
and  the  trimmings  of  any  white  poultry 
or  game  which  can  be  had,  and  lean  ham 
in  the  proportion  of  one  pound  to  eve^ 
fourteen  pounds  of  meat.  Cut  it  all  into 
pieces  (add  three  or  four  large  -wwroasted 
onions  and  heads  of  celery,  with  a  few 
blades  of  mace;  but  neither  carrots,  pepper, 
nor  spice  of  any  kind  but  mace)  ;  put  it 
into  a  stock-pot  with  just  water  enough  to 
cover  it :  let  it  boil,  and  add  three  onions 


and  a  few  blades  of  mace  ;  let  it  boil  for 
five  hours,  and  it  is  then  fit  for  use. 

11.— WHITE  POKTABLE  SOUP. 

Procure  as  fine  a  leg  of  veal  as  can  be 
obtained,  bone  it,  remove  the  whole  of 
the  skin  and  fat,  chop  hi  pieces  two 
dozen  fowls'  feet,  wash  them  well,  put 
them  into  a  large  iron  kettle  with  three 
gallons  of  water,  stew  until  the  meat  is 
tender  enough  to  separate,  cover  down 
close  and  stew  for  eight  hours,  take  a 
tea-cup  and  fill  it  with  the  soup ;  set  it 
where  it  can  quickly  cool.  If  when  cold  it 
is  hard  enough  to  cut  with  a  knife,  strain 
through  a  sieve  and  remove  all  the  fat, 
pour  into  cups  the  clear  jelly,  put  them 
into  a  stewpan  with  boiling  water  until 
they  are  like  glue ;  let  them  cool,  and 
when  nearly  cold  run  a  ring  round  them 
and  turn  them  on  to  a  piece  of  new  flan- 
nel ;  it  will  draw  all  the  moisture  out  of 
them ;  turn  them  in  seven  hours  and  con- 
tinue until  they  are  quite  hard.  Put 
them  in  tin  canisters  in  a  dry  place. 

When  any  is  required,  cut  a  piece 
about  the  size  of  a  walnut,  pour  a  pint 
of  boiling  water  upon  it,  stir  until  the 
soup  is  dissolved,  season  with  salt,  it  will 
make  a  basin  of  strong  broth ;  if  for  soup 
steep  some  vermicelli  in  water ;  boil  it ; 
then  to  one  cake  of  the  soup  pour  one 
pint  of  water.  If  two  quarts  or  four  pints 
of  soup  are  required,  take  four  cakes  of 
the  soup,  and  when  melted  set  it  over  the 
fire  and  simmer,  pour  it  into  a  soup 
tureen,  add  thin  slices  of  bread  very 
lightly  toasted,  and  upon  them  the  ver- 
micelli ;  season  to  palate. 

12.— TEANSPAEENT  SOUP. 

Cut  the  meat  from  a  leg  of  veal  in  slices 
as  thin  as  possible,  break  the  bone  as 
small  as  possible,  put  the  meat  into  a  very 
large  jar  and  the  bones  at  the  top,  with 
a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  a  quarter  of  an 
ounce  of  mace,  four  ounces  of  blanched 
garden  almonds  beat  fine  j  pour  upon  it  a 


MEAT   SOUPS. 


161 


gallon  of  boiling  water,  let  it  simmer 
over  a  slow  fire  twelve  hours, — all  night 
is  best ;  turn  it  into  a  double-bottomed 
tin  saucepan,  simmer  until  reduced  to 
two  quarts,  remove  the  scum  as  it  rises, 
strain  it  and  let  it  stand  two  hours,  pour 
into  a  saucepan,  taking  care  not  to  let 
any  of  the  sediment  accompany  it. 

Steep  two  ounces  of  vermicelli  in  water, 
boil  it  and  put  it  in  the  soup  before  serv- 
ing up. 

13.— SOUP  ITALIENNE. 
Cut  the  meat  from  a  knuckle  of  veal, 
break  up  the  bones  and  make  a  broth  of 
them,  cut  half  a  pound  of  ham  in  slices 
and  lay  them  at  the  bottom  of  a  stewpan ; 
upon  them  the  meat  from  the  knuckle  of 
veal,  with  the  slices  of  four  carrots,  four 
turnips,  a  dozen  peppercorns,  two  blades 
of  mace,  a  large  onion,  and  a  head  of 
celery;  cover  down  close;  stew  till  the 
gravy  is  drawn  out  and  the  roots  are 
quite  tender,  pour  over  them  the  broth 
made  from  the  bone  of  the  knuckle  until 
they  are  covered,  add  six  spoonfuls  of 
rice,  stew  four  hours,  work  the  soup 
through  a  sieve,  add  vermicelli  before 
serving. 

14.— POT-AU-FEU. 

This  is  by  far  the  most  wholesome  of 
all  soups.  Take  three  pounds  of  good 
rump  of  beef,  of  any  part  free  from  bone 
and  not  too  fat ;  put  it  into  an  earthen 
fire-proof  pot,  with  three  quarts  of  water 
one  large  carrot,  two  turnips,  two  leeks 
a  head  of  celery,  and  one  burnt  onion 
season,  and  let  the  soup  boil  slowly 
skimming  it  from  time  to  time,  for  a 
least  five  hours  ;  then  strain  it  through 
a  fine  sieve,  and  pour  it  over  thin  slice 
of  bread  to  serve.  The  meat  and  vege 
tables  make  a  dish  which  is  afterward 
served.  Thus  cooked,  the  beef  become 
tender  and  juicy,  and  is  excellent  cold. 


15-— OCHRA  SOUP. 

Put  on  six  pounds  of  fresh  beef— al- 
owing  a  little  less  than  a  quart  of  water 
o  each  pound ;  after  it  has  boiled  an 
our  add  two  quarts  of  ochras  minced 
ne  as  possible.  Afterwards  a  dozen  of 
ipe  tomatoes  pared  and  cut  up,  wi^h  two 
urnips,  a  few  Lima  beans,  herbs,  and 
ther  seasoning.  The  ochras  should  be 
issolved.  Strain  and  serve  it  with 
oasted  bread  cut  into  slices,  put  in  after 
t  comes  out  of  the  pot. 

The  soup  may  be  made  in  winter  of 
ried  ochras. 

16.-PEPPEB  POT. 

Put  four  cow's  feet  and  four  pounds 
f  tripe  to  boil  with  water  to  cover  them 
and  a.  little  salt.  When  simmered  to 
)ieces,  take  them  out5  and  skim  and 
strain  the  liquor.  Out  up  the  tripe,  put 
t  in  the  pot,  and  pour  the  liquor  over 
t.  Add  sliced  onions  and  potatoes  and 
lerbs,  also  small  dumplings  made  with 
flour  and  butter,  and  season  with  pepper 
and  salt.  A  little  tmtter  rolled  in  flour 
is  an  improvement.  When  done,  serve 
in  a  tureen. 

IT—WHITE  SOUP. 

Take  a  knuckle  of  veal,  separated  into 
three  or  four  pieces,  a  slice  of  ham  as 
lean  as  possible,  a  few  onions,  thyme, 
cloves,  and  mace,  stew  twelve  or  four- 
teen hours;  an  old  fowl  will  make  it 
much  richer  if  added.  This  soup  must 
be  made  the  day  before  it  is  required ; 
when  removed  from  the  fire,  after  being 
sufficiently  stewed,  let  it  cool ;  and  then 
remove  the  fat ;  add  to  it  four  ounces  of 
pounded  blanched  almonds,  let  it  boil 
slowly,  thicken  it  with  half  a  pint  of 
cream  and  an  egg;  it  should  boil  slowly 
for  half  an  hour,  and  then  be  served. 

18.-GEAVT  SOUP. 

Take  a  leg  of  beef  and  well  wash  and 
soak  it.  break  the  bone  and  put  it  into  a 


162 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


saucepan  with  a  gallon  of  water,  a  large 
bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  two  large  onions 
sliced  and  fried  to  a  nice  brown,  taking 
great  care  they  are  not  burnt,  two  blades 
of  mace,  three  cloves,  twenty  berries  of 
allspice,  and  forty  of  black  pepper,  stew 
till  the  soup  is  as  rich  as  you  wish  it  to 
be,  tHen  take  out  the  meat.  When  it  is 
cold  take  off  the  fat,  heat  the  soup  with 
vermicelli,  and  the  nicest  part  of  a  head 
of  celery  boiled  and  cut  to  pieces,  cay- 
enne, and  a  little  salt ;  carrot  may  be 
added  with  turnip  cut  into  small  pieces 
and  boiled  with  spinach  and  endive,  or 
the  herbs  without  the  vermicelli,  or  ver- 
micelli only ;  add  also  a  large  spoonful  of 
soy  and  one  of  mushroom  ketchup ;  a 
French  roll  should  be  made  hot  and  put 
into  the  soup. 

19.— JENNY  LINE'S  SOUP. 

Soyer  says :  This  is  the  soup  invented 
and  often  partaken  of  by  the  celebrated 
cantatrice  of  the  name  it  bears,  who  par- 
took of  it  every  day  when  on  a  visit  to 
the  talented  authoress,  Mrs.  Anna  Ma- 
ria Hall,  who  was  kind  enough  to  for- 
ward it  to  me  for  this  edition. 

Make  about  three  quarts  of  stock, 
which  strain  through  a  fine  sieve  into 
a  middle-size  stewpan;  set  it  to  boil; 
add  to  it  three  ounces  of  sago;  boil 
gently  twenty  minutes ;  skim ;  just  pre- 
vious to  serving  break  four  fresh  eggs, 
and  place  the  yolk,  entirely  free  from 
the  white,  into  a  basin,  beat  them  well 
with  a  spoon;  add  to  it  a  gill  of 
cream ;  take  the  pan  from  the  fire,  pour 
in  the  yolks,  stir  quickly  for  one  minute, 
serve  immediately  ;  do  not  let  it  boil,  or 
it  will  curdle,  and  would  not  be  fit  to  be 
partaken  of.  The  stock  being  previously 
seasoned,  it  only  requires  the  addition 
of  half  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  a  little 
more  salt,  pepper,  nutmeg ;  also  thyme, 
parsley,  and  bay-leaf  will  agreeably  vary 
the  flavor  without  interfering  with  the 
quality. 


20.— HAEICO  SOUP. 

Cut  some  mutton  cutlets  from  the 
neck;  trim  and  fry  them  of  a  light 
brown ;  stew  in  brown  gravy  soup  till 
tender.  Have  ready  some  carrots,  tur- 
nips, celery,  and  onions ;  fry  them  in 
butter  for  some  time,  and  clear  the  soup 
from  the  fat;  then  add  the  vegetables, 
color  it,  and  thicken  it  with  butter  and 
flour  ;  season,  and  add  to  it  a  little  port 
wine  and  ketchup.  If  the  gravy  be 
ready,  the  soup  will  require  no  more 
time  to  prepare  than  may  be  necessary 
to  render  the  chops  and  vegetables  ten- 
der, and  is  an  excellent  family  dish.  If 
wanted  to  be  made  more  highly  flavored, 
put  in  a  little  curry-powder. 

21.— FEENCH  POT-AU:FEU. 

Out  of  this  earthen  pot  comes  the  fa- 
vorite soup  and  bouilli,  which  has  been 
everlastingly  famed  as  having  been  the 
support  of  several  generations  of  all 
classes  of  society  in  France ;  from  the 
opulent  to  the  poorest  individuals,  all 
pay  tribute  to  its  excellence  and  worth. 
In  fact,  this  soup  and  bouilli  is  to  the 
French  what  the  roast  beef  and  plum- 
pudding  are  on  a  Sunday  to  the  English. 
No  dinner  in  France  is  served  without 
soup,  and  no  good  soup  is  supposed  to  be 
made  without  the  pot-au-feu.  The  fol- 
lowing is  the  receipt : — 

Put  in  the  pot-au-feu  six  pounds  of 
beef,  four  quarts  of  water,  set  near  the 
fire,  skim ;  when  nearly  boiling,  add  a 
spoonful  and  a  half  of  salt,  half  a  pound 
of  liver,  two  carrots,  four  turnips,  eight 
young  or  two  old  leeks,  one  head  of 
celery,  two  onions  and  one  burnt,  with  a 
clove  in  each,  and  a  piece  of  parsnip ; 
skim  again,  and  let  simmer  four  or  five 
hours,  adding  a  little  cold  water  now  and 
then  ;  take  off  part  of  the  fat ;  put  slices 
of  bread  into  the  tureen,  lay  half  the 
vegetables  over,  and  half  the  broth,  and 
serve  the  meat  separately  with  the  veg- 
etables around.  The  remainder  of  the 


MEAT   SOUPS. 


163 


broth  from  the  pot-au-feu  may  be  used 
for  any  kind  of  soup  instead  of  the  stock. 
The  best  part  of  the  beef  for  the  pot- 
au-feu  is  the  mouse-buttock,  tops  of  the 
ribs,  clod  and  stickings. 

22.— WHITE  SOUP. 

Take  a  large  scrag  or  a  knuckle  of 
veal,  and  one-half  pound  of  lean  ham ; 
some  blades  of  mace  and  a  piece  of  un- 
grated  nutmeg,  sliced  onions,  and  heads 
©f  celery,  with  a  little  salt  and  an  equal 
quantity  of  loaf-sugar.  Break  the  bones, 
and  stew  all  gently  with  one  gallon  to 
six  quarts  of  water — according  to  the 
weight  of  the  meat — until  it  is  done  to 
rags  and  the  soup  becomes  sufficiently 
strong :  skim  it,  and  strain  it  through  a 
hair  sieve ;  or,  if  allowed  to  stand  dur- 
ing the  night,  pour  it  into  an  earthen 
vessel,  and  next  morning  take  off  the 
fat.  When  preparing  it  for  table,  add  to 
the  liquor  from  one-quarter  to  one-half 
pound  of  sweet  almonds,  blanched  and 
finely  pounded ;  boil  a  short  time  and 
strain  again ;  then  put  in  one-half  pint 
to  a  pint  of  good  thick  cream,  and  the 
yolk  of  an  egg ;  but  when  the  cream  and 
egg  are  put  in,  be  careful  not  to  let  the 
soup  boil,  or  it  will  curdle.  The  safest 
way  to  avoid  this  is  to  mix  the  cream 
and  egg  in  the  tureen  and  pour  the  soup 
upon  it.  This  in  French  cookery  is 
called  " Liaison" 

23— EICE  AND  MEAT  SOUP. 

Put  a  pound  of  rice  and  a  little  pepper 
and  broth  herbs  into  two  quarts  of  water ; 
cover  them  close,  and  simmer  very  soft- 
ly ;  put  in  a  little  cinnamon,  two  pounds 
of  good  ox-cheek,  and  boil  the  whole  till 
the  juices  are  incorporated  into  the 
liquor. 

24— OX-TAIL  SOUP. 

Two  ox-tails,  if  properly  stewed,  with 
a  couple  of  pounds  of  gravy  beef  and  a 
bone  of  ham,  will  make  an  excellent 


soup.  Cut  the  tails  into  joints,  and  boil 
very  gently  for  several  hours  in  a  suffi- 
cient quantity  of  water,  with  the  beef 
and  ham,  carrots,  turnips,  and  celery, 
;wo  or  three  onions,  a  piece  of  crust  of 
bread,  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  a  clove  or 
two,  and  some  peppercorns.  Take  out 
he  tails  when  tender,  and  let  the  beef, 
&c.,  boil  four  hours  longer,  then  "strain 
the  liquor,  and  remove  the  fat  in  the 
same  manner  as  for  clear  gravy  soup, 
[f  made  without  ham  bones,  or  other 
flavoring  ingredients,  it  will  require  the 
addition  of  a  little  ketchup,  or  some 
of  the  prepared  sauces,  and  a  glass  of 
wine,  with  a  moderate  quantity  of  cay- 
enne. Add  the  tails  and  some  pieces  of 
carrot  and  turnip  cut  into  fancy  shapes. 

When  thickened  ox-tail  soup  is  pre- 
ferred, proceed  in  the  same  manner  as 
above,  and  thicken  the  broth  with  brown 
roux. 

25.— SOUP  A  LA  FRANOAISE. 

Place  in  the  stcwpan  six  pounds  of 
beef,  add  a  few  small  veal  bones,  or  one 
about  a  pound  weight,  add  a  couple  of 
fowls'  heads,  and  a  small  piece  of  calf's 
liver ;  iover  with  four  quarts  of  water ; 
when  it  boils  remove  the  scum,  add  three 
or  four  leeks,  a  couple  of  turnips,  a  head  of 
celery,  a  burnt  onion,  a  large  carrot,  salt, 
and  simmer  slowly  seven  hours;  let  every 
particle  of  scum  be  removed,  serve  with 
sippets  of  bread  in  the  soup. 

26.— TO  MAKE  FAMILY  SOUP. 
Take  a  shin  or  leg  of  beef,  that  has 
been  newly  killed ;  the  fore-leg  is  best, 
as  there  is  the  most  meat  on  it.  Have 
it  cut  into  three  pieces,  and  wash  it 
well.  To  each  pound  allow  somewhat 
less  than  a  quart  of  water ;  to  ten  pounds 
of  the  leg,  two  gallons  of  water.  Put  it 
into  a  large  pot,  and  add  half  a  table- 
spoonful  of  salt.  Hang  it  over  a  good 
fire,  full  eight  hours  before  you  dine. 
When  it  has  come  to  a  hard  boil,  and  the 


164 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


scum  has  risen  (which  it  will  do  as  soon 
as  it  has  boiled),  skim  it  well ;  then  set 
it  on  hot  coals  in  the  corner,  and  keep  it 
simmering  steadily,  so  as»  to  continue  a 
regular  heat. 

About  three  hours  afterwards,  put  in 
a  couple  of  heads  of  celery*,  four  carrots 
cut  small,  and  as  many  onions  sliced  and 
fried,  with  either  a  very  small  head  of 
cabbage  cut  into  little  pieces,  or  a  large 
one  whole,  if  to  be  eaten  with  the  meat, 
or,  if  you  have  any  objection  to  cabbage, 
substitute  a  larger  proportion  of  the 
other  vegetables,  or  else  tomatDes  instead. 
Put  also  in  a  bunch  of  herbs,  tied  up  in 
a  thin  muslin  rag  to  prevent  its  floating 
on  the  surface.  It  will  require  at  least 
eight  hours'  cooking;  remembering  to 
put  in  the  vegetables  three  hours  after 
the  meat,  and  the  turnips  only  half  an 
hpur  before  it  is  done.  If  you  wish  to 
send  any  portion  of  the  meat  to  table, 
take  the  best  part  of  it  out  of  the  soup 
about  two  hours  before  dinner ;  let  the 
remainder  be  left  in  the  pot  till  you  send 
up  the  soup,  as  by  that  time  it  will  be 
boiled  to  rags,  and  have  transferred  all 
its  flavor  to  the  liquid,  and  must  be 
strained. 

Next  day,  take  what  is  left  of  the 
soup  ;  put  it  into  a  pot,  and  simmer  it 
over  hot  coals  for  half  an  hour  ;  a  longer 
time  will  weaken  the  taste.  If  it  has 
been  well  made,  and  kept  in  a  cool  place, 
it  will  be  found  better  the  second  day 
than  the  first. 

If  your  family  is  very  small,  and  the 
leg  of  beef  large,  it  may  furnish  soup  for 
several  successive  days.  Half  the  leg 
may  therefore  be  sufficient,  previously 
breaking  to  pieces  all  the  bones  with  a 
mallet  or  kitchen  cleaver,  which,  by 
causing  them  to  give  out  their  marrow 
will  greatly  enrich  the  soup. 

Or : — When  a  large  quantity  of  any 
butcher's  meat  is  brought  in  for  the  use 
of  the  family,  the  joints  will  require 
tri uming:  take  all  the  parings,  adding 


a  slice  or  two  of  bacon,  beef  or  mutton 
)ones,  with  an  old  fowl,  or  a  rabbit,  if 
ou  have  one.  turnip,  and  all  sorts  of  ve- 
getables, onions,  herbs,  a  few  slices  of 
sarrot,  ketchup,  pepper,  salt,  &c.  ;  put  a 
>iece  of  butter  at  the  bottom  of  the  pan. 
over  it  closely,  and  put  it  over  a  slow 
ire  for  a  few  minutes,  shaking  the  sauce- 
pan occasionally.     Then  pour  in  boiling 
vater,  and  let   it  stew  until  it  is  rich ; 
apportioning  the  water  to  the  quantity 
f  meat.     If  there  be  any  solid  portion  of 
)eef,  of  which  the  soup  is  made,  let  it  be 
;aken   out   previous   to  the  meat  being 
!  done  to  rags,"  and  sent  up  along  with 
he  roots  in  some  of  the  liquor,  thickened 
and  flavored  with  any  piquant  sauce :  it 
will  form  an  excellent  ^tew. 

These  receipts  also,  are  for  the  standing 
lousehold  dish  so  well  known  in  France 
as  the  pot-au-feu. 

Cheap  and  wholesome  potages,  in 
common  use  among  the  middling  classes 
n  various  parts  of  Europe,  are  also  made 
in  different  modes,  a  few  of  which  are 
these : — 

27.— COTTAGE  SOUP. 

Take  two  pounds  of  lean  beef,  cut  into 
small  pieces,  with  one-fourth  of  a  pound  of 
bacon,  two  pounds  of  meally  potatoes, 
three  ounces  of  rice,  carrots,  turnips,  and 
onions  sliced,  or  leeks  and  cabbage.  Fry 
the  meat,  cabbage,  and  onions  in  butter 
or  dripping,  the  latter  being  the  most 
savory  ;  and  put  them  into  a  gallon  of 
water,  to  stew  gently  over  a  slow  fire  for 
three  hours,  putting  in  the  carrots  at  the 
same  time,  but  the  turnips  and  rice  only 
time  enough  to  allow  of  their  being  well 
done ;  and  mashing  the  potatoes,  which 
should  be  then  passed  through  a  colander : 
season  only  with  pepper  and  salt :  keep 
the  vessel  closely  covered.  It  will  make 
five  pints  of  excellent  soup  at  the  cost  of 
about  one  shilling  and  eight  pence. 

28.— SCOTCH  KAIL 

Is  chiefly  made  of  mutton,  either  fresh 


MEAT   SOUPS. 


165 


or  salted  ;  beef  is  only  used  when  mutton 
cannot  conveniently  be  had.  Three  or 
four  pounds  of  meat  should  be  put  into  a 
gallon  of  cold  water,  along  with  a  moder- 
ate quantity  of  pearl-barley,  with  leeks 
or  onions,  and  allowed  to  stew  until  ten- 
der ;  if  salted,  put  the  meat  into  water 
over  night,  changing-  it  once  before  boil- 
ing. Then  have  ready  the  hearts  of  two 
cabbages  cut  small,  or  greens,  if  cabbages 
are  not  in  season;  put  them  into  the 
broth,  which  must  be  allowed  to  boil  up 
uncovered  until  reduced  to  two  quarts. 
It  should  only  be  seasoned  with  pepper 
and  salt;  but  will  be  much  improved  by 
the  addition  of  a  couple  of  onions  fried  in 
butter  ;  indeed,  both  carrots  and  turnips 
are  also  sometimes  used,  but  their  addi- 
tion deprives  the  soup  of  the  title  of 
"  Kail,"  whieh  is  derived  from  the  greens 
which  are  usually  employed. 

The  meat  is  served  with  the  soup,  and, 
in  like  manner  as  the  olla  of  the  Span- 
iards, or  the  pot  aufeu  of  the  French,  is 
the  standing  household  dish  among  the 
middle  classes  of  Scotland. 

29.— COCK-A-LEEKIE— 
Or  as  in  Scotland  called  "  cocky-leeky" 
— is  there  also  a  very  ancient  dish,  and 
is  recorded  to  have  been  a  special  favorite 
of  James  I.     It  is  made  thus : — 

Stew  a  large  fowl,  a  marrow-bone,  and 
two  or  three  pounds  of  beef,  with  two  or 
three  Scotch  pints  (four  to  six  quwrts) 
of  water,  and  the  white  ends  of  two  or 
three  dozen  of  leeks,  cut  in  pieces.  Just 
before  serving,  add  half  a  pound  of  prunes, 
which  dish  with  the  soup  and  the  fowl ; 
but  not  the  meat  or  marrow-bone,  which, 
when  put  to  boil,  must  be  divided,  and 
left  uncovered. 

Or : — Put  seven  pounds  of  the  upper 
end  of  a  leg  of  beef,  and  an  old  fowl,  in  a 
pot,  with  water  enough  to  cover  it,  the 
white  parts  of  two  or  three  dozen  of 
leeks,  half-boiled  and  sliced,  and  one 
pound  of  prunes.  Stew  till  the  meat  be 
11 


.tender,  skimming  it  well,  and,  if  you 
choose,  the  fowl  may  be  disjointed  and 
sent  up  in  the  soup.  The  leeks  should 
be  blanched,  and  as  many  used  as  to 
thicken  the  soup ;  but  no  other  season- 
ing is  usually  employed  than  salt  and 
allspice,  with  a  small  quantity  of  mace. 

80.— SAGO  SOUP. 

Take  three  pounds  of  lean  beef,  a  slice 
of  lean  ham,  and  lay  them  in  a  stewpan 
with  a  lump  of  butter,  draw  the  gravy 
gently,  add  two  quarts  of  water,  and  a 
sliced  onion  which  has  been  browned  by 
frying  in  fresh  butter,  add  a  bunch  of 
sweet  herbs,  six  cloves,  a  blade  of  mace, 
a  teaspoonful  of  allspice,  and  one  of  black 
pepper  whole,  stew  until  the  soup  is  rich 
and  brown,  then  remove  the  meat  and 
strain  the  soup  clear,  put  it  into  a  clean 
stewpan,  thicken  it  to  a  good  consistency 
with  sago. 

81.— SHEEP'S  HEAD  SOUP. 

Have  the  head  carefully  cleaned,  put 
it  into  a  stewpan  with  a  little  water,  and 
when  it  is  heated  through  fill  up  the  pot. 
When  it  is  sufficiently  tender,  take  it  up, 
remove  the  meat  from  the  bones,  and 
return  the  bones  into  the  broth,  adding 
onion,  sweet  herbs,  &c.,  as  before  direct- 
ed The  head  and  trotters  may  also  be 
put  with  some  vegetables  into  an  earthen 
jug,  containing  half  a  gallon  of  water ; 
cover  it  close  up,  and  bake  it ;  either  cut 
the  meat  from  the  bones,  when  sufficient- 
ly tender,  and  put  it  in  small  pieces  into 
the  soup,  or  serve  up  the  head  and  trot- 
ters separately,  either  whole  or  with  the 
meat  cut  off  and  made  into  a  stew. 

In  Scotland,  the  head  is  usually  singed 
with  a  red-hot  iron  to  remove  the  wool, 
but  without  burning  or  otherwise  injur- 
ing the  skin.  The  head  is  then  soaked 
during  the  night,  washed,  scraped,  and 
split ;  the  brains  taken  out,  and  either 
fried  or  made  into  forcemeat  balls,  and 
the  head  stewed  hi  the  broth  till  tender. 


166 


THE    PRACTICAL    HOUSEKEEPER. 


82.— SOYER'S  MULLIGATAWNY  SOUP. 

Cut  up  a  small  knuckle  of  veal,  which 
put  into  a  stewpan,  with  a  piece  of  butter, 
half  a  pound  of  lean  ham,  a  carrot,  a  tur- 
nip, three  onions,  and  six  apples,  add  half 
a  pint  of  water ;  set  the  stewpan  over  a 
sharp  fire,  moving  the  meat  round  occa- 
sionally, let  it  remain  until  the  bottom 
of  the  stewpan  is  covered  with  a  brown- 
ish glaze,  then  add  three  tablespoonsful 
of  curry  powder,  one  of  curry  paste,  and 
hah0  a  pound  of  flour  j  stir  well  in,  and  fill 
the  stewpan  with  a  gallon  of  water ;  add 
a  spoonful  of  salt,  the  half  of  one  of  su- 
gar ;  when  boiling,  place  it  at  the  corner 
of  the  fire,  and  let  it  simmer  two  hours 
and  a  half,  skimming  off  all  the  fat  as  it 
rises,  then  pass  it  through  a  tammy  into 
a  tureen;  trim  some  of  the  pieces  of  veal, 
and  put  it  back  in  the  stewpan  to  boil, 
and  serve  with  plain  boiled  rice  sepa- 
rate. Ox-tails  or  pieces  of  rabbits,  chick- 
ens, &c.,  left  from  a  previous  dinner,  may 
be  served  in  it  instead  of  the  veal.  The 
veal  is  exceedingly  good  to  eat.  Taste, 
before  serving,  if  quite  palatable. 

88.-SCOTCH  BROTH. 

Set  on  the  fire  four  ounces  of  pearl- 
barley,  with  three  Scotch  pints  (or  six 
quarts)  of  salt  water ;  when  it  boils  skim 
it,  and  add  what  quantity  of  salt  beef  or 
fresh  brisket  you  choose,  and  a  marrow- 
bone or  a  fowl,  with  a  couple  of  pounds 
of  either  lean  beef  or  mutton,  and  a  good 
quantity  of  leeks,  cabbages,  or  savoys ; 
or  you  may  use  turnips,  onions,  and  gra- 
ted carrots.  Keep  it  boiling  for  at  least 
four  or  five  hours ;  but  if  a  fowl  be  used, 
let  it  not  be  put  in  till  just  time  enough 
to  bring  it  to  table  when  well  done,  for 
it  must  be  served  up  separately. 

Or : — Take  the  chops  from  a  neck  of 
mutton  ;  cut  the  remainder  up  in  small 
pieces,  and  let  it  stew  the  whole  day. 
Take  also  a  breakfast  cup  of  Scotch  bar- 
ley, and  boil  it  in  water  till  it  gets  dry  j 


then  chop  fine  two  large  onions  and  tur- 
nips, which  put  with  the  barley  and  chops 
into  a  close  stewpan.  strain  the  stock  into 
it,  let  it  boil  one  and  a  half  hours  and 
skim  it  well,  seasoning  it  only  with  salt 
and  black  pepper.  This  will  make  a 
large  tureen  of  broth,  besides  preserving 
the  chops  for  the  table. 

84.— HOTCH  POTCH. 

Take  any  quantity  of  lamb  chops,  pare 
off  the  skin  and  greater  part  of  the  fat, 
trim  the  bones,  cut  the  smaller  end  of  the 
chops  into  pieces,  and  lay  them  along  with 
the  chops  put  in  whole  in  a  stewpan  in 
this  manner : — A  layer  of  chops  at  the 
bottom,  covered  with  every  kind  of  vege- 
table cut  into  small  pieces — onions,  celery, 
lettuce,  carrots,  turnips,  and  green  peas ; 
then  put  on  a  layer  of  chops,  and  so  on 
with  the  vegetables  until  the  whole  are 
added ;  cover  the  ingredients  with  water, 
and  let  it  stew  several  hours  very  gently, 
until  both  the  meat  and  vegetables  be- 
come tender,  and  the  soup  thick. 

Scotch  Hotch  PotcJi  is  made  in  the  same 
manner,  only  that  both  beef  and  mutton 
are  indiscriminately  used,  and  minced  in- 
stead of  being  left  in  chops. 

35.— PEPPER-POT  HOTCH  POTCH. 

To  three  quarts  of  water  put  vegeta- 
bles according  to. the  season.  In  summer, 
peas.  French  beans,  cauliflowers,  lettuce, 
and  spinach ;  in  winter,  beet-root  and  en- 
dive,* carrots,  turnips,  celery,  and  onions 
in  both,  all  cut  small ;  and  stew  with' 
two  pounds  of  neck  of  mutton,  or  a  fowl 
and  one  pound  of  pickled  pork,  in  three 
quarts  of  water,  till  quite  tender. 

On  first  boiling,  skim.  Half  an  hour 
before  serving,  add  a  lobster  or  crab 
cleared  from  the  bones.  Season  with 
salt  and  cayenne.  A  small  quantity  of 
rice  should  be  put  in  with  the  meat. 

*  If  endive  be  used,  it  should,  however,  be  boiled 
in  two  or  three  waters  to  take  off  its  bitterness. 


MEAT   SOUPS. 


167 


Some  people  choose  very  small  suet 
dumplings  boiled  with  it.  Should  any 
fat  rise,  skim  nicely,  and  put  one-half  a 
cup  of  water  with  a  little  flour. 

It  may  be  made  of  various  things, 
using  a  due  proportion  of  fish,  flesh,  fowl, 
vegetables  and  pulse.  In  the  West  In- 
dies it  is  the  universal  dish  of  the  colored 
people;  but  seasoned  so  highly  with 
green  capsicums  and  peppers,  that  it  is 
there  called  "  pepper-pot." 

86.— SOUP  A  LA  SAP. 
Divide  a  pound  of  beef  into  thin  slices, 
grate  half  a  pound  of  potatoes  and  put 
them  in  three  quarts  of  water,  add  an 
onion,  a  pint  of  grey  peas  and  three  ounces 
of  rice ;  reduce  it  by  boiling  to  five  pints  ; 
cut  two  heads  ^of  celery  and  put  them 
into  the  stewpan,  pour  upon  them  the 
five  pints  of  soup  and  pulp  the  boiled 
peas  into  it  through  a  fine  tammy  or 
cparse  cloth.  Stew  until  it  is  quite  tender, 
season  with  pepper  and  salt  and  serve  up 
with  fried  bread  cut  in  dice. 

87.— HESSIAN  SOUP. 

Cut  into  slices  three  pounds  of  shin  of 
beef,  lay  it  in  a  stewpan,  put  in  three 
onions,  five  carrots,  eight  potatoes,  a  pint 
and  a  quarter  of  split  peas,  three  heads  of 
celery,  some  whole  pepper,  salt ;  pour  in 
by  degrees  seven  quarts  of  water,  stew 
until  reduced  to  half.  If  the  soup  alone 
be  required  strain  off  the  vegetables,  if 
not,  serve  as  cooked. 

88.— SOUP  A  LA  KEINE  VICTOKIA 
Take  a  pound  and  a  half  of  lean  veal, 
place  it  in  a  stewpan  with  a  slice  of  bacon, 
which  must  not  be  fat,  an  onion  with  one 
clove,  a  blade  of  mace,  a  head  of  celery 
a  handful  of  sweet  herbs,  four  ounces  of 
fresh  butter,  and  some  whole  white  pep- 
per ;  set  It  over  a  clear  fire,  move  it  fre- 
quently to  prevent  burning,  or  the  flavor 
is  ruirfcd.  Have  some  white  gravy  ready, 


;hicken  it,  add  two  quarts  to  the  above 
ngredients  with  a  few  strips  of  mush- 
rooms ;  let  it  boil,  and  when  it  reaches 
hat  point  remove  it ;  skim  it  clean  of  all 
scum  or  fat.     Have  ready  some  vermicelli 
which  has  been  soaked  five  minutes  in 
jold  water  and  subsequently  stewed  in  a 
trong  broth ;  strain  on  it  the  soup  and 
serve  with  blanched  chervil  leaves  in  it. 


).— MULLIGATAWNEY  SOUP.    (ENGLISH.) 

A  calf's  head  divided,  well  cleaned, 
place  with  a  cow-heel  in  a  well  tinned 
saucepan ;  boil  them  till  tender,'  let  them 
cool,  cut  the  meat  from  the  bones  in 
slices,  and  fry  them  in  butter ;  stew  the 
bones  of  the  head  and  heel  for  some  hours ; 
when  well  stewed,  strain,  let  it  get  cold 
and  remove  the  fat.  When  this  is  accom- 
plished cut  four  onions  in  slices,  flour 
them,  fry  them  in  butter  until  brown, 
add  a  tablespoonful  and  a  half  of  best 
curry  powder  obtainable,  cayenne  pepper, 
one  teaspoonful  with  a  little  salt ;  turme- 
ric powder  sufficient  to  fill  a  dessert 
spoon  is  sometimes  added,  but  the  im- 
provement is  not  manifest  to  a  refined 
English  palate,  the  curry  powder  being 
deemed  all  that  is  necessary ;  add  these 
last  ingredients  to  the  soup,  boil  gently 
for  about  an  hour  and  a  half,  add  two 
dessert  spoonfuls  of  Harvey's  sauce  j 
serve. 

40.— SPRING  SOUP 

May  be  made  of  a  knuckle  of  veal- 
allowing  a  quart  of  water  to  each  pound 
—with  four  calves  feet,  a  little  cold  ham, 
or  salt  and  cayenne,  simmered  slowly  for 
several  hours.  Add  then,  two  quarts 
young  green  peas  and  a  pint  of  asparagus 
tops,  previously  boiled  with  the  juice  of 
spinach  and  other  green  herbs  or  vegeta- 
bles, and-  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter 
rolled  in  flour.— Boil  up  together,  and 
serve. 


168 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


41.— SUMMER  SOUP. 

Made  of  mutton  neck  or  shoulder,  sim- 
mered as  above,  in  the  same  proportion 
of  water,  with  sliced  turnips,  carrots  and 
onions,  a  quart  of  Lima  beans,  and  pars- 
ley, sweet  marjoram  and  other  herbs; 
green  corn  is  an  excellent  addition  late 
in  summer,  or  cauliflower.' and  a  few  pick- 
led nasturtions;  also  small  dumplings, 
mixed  with  egg  and  butter  ;  simmer  the 
vegetables  till  done. 

42.— AUTUMN  SOUP. 

Take  six  pounds  of  lean,  cut  up,  a  quart 
of  water  to  a  gallon,  add  the  hock  of  a 
ham,  boil  and  skim  it,  and  put  in  two 
quarts  ochras,  cut  in  small  slices,  an  onion 
sliced,  two  quarts  ripe  tomatoes,  cut  up, 
one  quart  Lima  beans ;  simmer  four  hours 
slowly,  add  the  green  corn  grated  off 
eight  ears,  season  the  soup,  and  boil  till 
the  meat  is  in  rags  and  the  soup  thorough- 
ly done.  Dried  ochras  may  be  used  in 
winter. 

48.— WINTER  SOUP. 

Take  a  shin  or  leg  of  beef,  cut  in  pieces, 
salt  and  let  it  stand  all  night ;  next  morn- 
ing put  it  on  with  water,  a  quart  to  a 
pound,  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  mace ; 
simmer  and  skim  well.  When  boiling, 
put  in  a  head  of  cabbage  cut  fine,  twelve 
carrots  sliced;  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs 
and  parsley;  add  six  turnips  and  three 
potatoes,  and  an  onion,  all  sliced ;  skim 
off  the  fat  and  simmer  slowly  till  dinner 
time. 

44— HOTCH  POTCH.    (English.) 

Put  a  pint  of  peas  into  a  quart  of  wa- 
ter, boil  them  until  they  are  so  tender  as 
easily  to  be  pulped  through  a  sieve.  Take 
of  the  leanest  end  of  a  loin  of  mutton 
three  pounds,  cut  it  into  chops,  put  it 
into  a  saucepan  with  a  gallon  of  water, 
four  carrots,  four  turnips  cut  in  small 
pieces ;  season  with  pepper  and  salt.  Boil 
until  all  the  vegetables  are  quite  tender, 
put  in  the  pulped  peas,  a  head  of  celery, 


and  an  onion  sliced,  boil  fifteen  minutes 
and  serve. 

45.— MUTTON  SOUP. 

Cut  a  neck  of  mutton  into  four  pieces? 
put  it  aside,  take  a  slice  of  the  gammon 
of  bacon  and  put  it  in  a  saucepan  with  a 
quart  of  peas,  with  enough  water  to  boil 
them,  let  the  peas  boil  to  a  pulp  and 
strain  them  through  a  cloth,  put  them 
aside,  add  enough  water  to  that  in  which 
is  the  bacon  to  boil  the  mutton,  slice 
three  turnips,  as  many  carrots,  and  boil 
for  an  hour  slowly;  add  sweet  herbs, 
onions,  cabf>age,  and  lettuce  chopped 
small,  stew  a  quarter  of  an  hour  longer, 
sufficient  to  cook  the  mutton,  then  take 
it  out,  take  some  fresh  green  peas,  add 
them  with  some  chopped  parsley  and  the 
peas  first  boiled,  to  the-  soup,  put  in  a 
lump  of  butter  rolled  in  flour,  and  stew 
till  the  green  peas  are  done. 

461.— LAMB  SOUP 

May  be  cooked  as  above,  save  that  beef 
should  be  substituted  for  the  bacon. 

47.— LEG  OF  BEEF  BEOTH. 

Take  a  leg  of  beef,  break  the  bone  in 
several  places,  place  it  in  a  pan  with  a 
gallon  of  water,  remove  the  scum  as  it 
rises  and  add  three  blades  of  mace,  a 
crust  of  bread,  and  a  small  bunch  of  pars- 
ley ;  boil  till  the  beef  is  tender ;  toast 
some  bread,  cut  it  in  diamonds,  lay  it  in 
the  bottom  of  the  tureen,  put  the  meat 
on  it,  and  pour  the  broth  over  all. 

48.— VEAL  BROTH. 

Stew  a  knuckle  of  veal ;  draw  gravy 
as  for  stock,  add  four  quarts  of  water, 
with  celery,  parsley,  and  an  onion  ;  sim- 
mer till  reduced  to  half,  add  two  or  three 
ounces  of  rice,  but  not  until  the  soup  is 
nearly  cooked,  so  that  when  served  the 
rice  may  be  no  more  than  ddne.  Ver- 
micelli may  be  used  in  preference,  or  foi 
a  change. 


MEAT   SOUPS. 


169 


49.— MUTTON  BEOTH 

Three  pounds  of  the  scrag  of  mutton, 
put  into  two  quarts  of  cold  water ;  adc 
onion  and  turnips,  pepper  and  salt,  a 
few  sweet  herbs,  and  a  little  pearl  bar- 
ley ;  skim  well,  and  boil  four  hours. 

These  ingredients  chiefly  depend  upon 
whether  this  dish  is  made  for  an  invalid , 
if  so,  the  omission  of  any  of  the  ingre- 
dients will  be  regulated  according  to  the 
advice  of  the  medical  attendant. 


50.— BAKED  SOUPS. 

Take  a  pound  of  any  lean  meat  and  cut 
it  into  dice,  place  in  an  earthen  jar,  or 
pot,  that  will  hold  five  quarts  of  liquid. 
Slice,  and  add  to  it,  two  onions,  two  car- 
rots, two  ounces  of  rice  washed  and  pre- 
viously soaked,  a  pint  of  whole  or  split 
peas,  and  some  pepper  and  salt  to  taste ; 
cover  all  with  a  gallon  of  water,  tie  a 
cloth  over  the  top  of  the  jar,  or  close 
the  lid  of  the  pot  down  very  close,  and 
bake. 

This  is  a  cheap  and  useful  soup  for 
poor  people,  and  may  be  much  improved 
by  using  the  liquor  that  salt  beef,  of  in- 
deed, any  meat  has  been  boiled  in,  in- 
stead of  water. 

Cheap— for  the  poor. — Soak  a  quart  of 
split  peas  for  a  day  in  cold  water,  and 
then  put  them  into  a  boiler  with  two  gal- 
lons and  a  half  of  water,  and  two  pounds 
of  cold  boiled  potatoes,  well  bruised,  a 
faggot  of  herbs,  salt,  pepper,  and  two 
onions  sliced.  Cover  it  very  close,  and 
boil  very  gently  for  five  hours,  or  until 
only  two  gallons  of  soup  remain. 

Another. — Take  two  pounds  of  shin 
of  beef,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  barley, 
a  half-penny  worth  of  parsley,  two  on- 
ions sliced,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and 
having  cut  the  meat  into  dice,  and  bro- 
ken the  bone,  place  in  a  gallon  pot  and 
fill  up  with  water ;  boil  very  gently  for 
five  hours.  Potatoes,  celery  tops,  cab- 


bage, or  any  vegetable  left  from  the  day 
before  may  be  added. 

61.— SCOTCH  BARLEY  BEOTH. 
^  Throw  three-quarters  of  a  pound  ol 
Scotch  barley  into  some  clean  water 
when  thoroughly  cleansed  place  it  with 
a  knuckle  of  veal  in  a  stewpan,  cover  it 
with  cold  water,  let  it  slowly  reach  a 
boil,  keep  it  skimmed,  add  seven  onions, 
and  simmer  for  two  hours ;  ekim  again 
and  add  two  heads  of  celery  and  two  tur- 
nips cut  in  slices,  or  any  shape  it  pleases 
the  cook ;  add  as  much  salt  as  required 
to  make  it  palatable,  let  it  stew  for  an 
hour  and  a  half;  it  must  be  well  skimmed 
before  the  broth  is  dished;  the  meat 
must  be  previously  removed  and  the 
broth  alone  sent  to  table.  If  it  is  intend- 
ed to  send  the  veal  to  the  table  with  it, 
dress  it  as  follows :  take  two  pints  of  the 
broth  and  put  it  into  a  stewpan  over  a 
clear  fire,  add  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
flour  to  the  broth,  and  keep  the  broth 
stirring  as  you  shake  it  hi  until  it  boils ; 
add  a  little  cayenne  pepper,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  port,  boil  for  two  minutes, 
strain  it  over  the  veal  and  send  to  table. 

52.— GIBLET  SOUP. 

Scald  and  clean  thoroughly  two  sets  of 
goose  giblets  or  twice  the  number  of 
duck  giblets,  cut  them  in  pieces,  put 

;hem  in  three  quarts  of  stock ;  if  water 

s  used  instead  of  stock  add  a  pound  of 
gravy  beef,  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  a 
couple  of  onions,  half  a  table-spoonful 

>f  whole  white  pepper,  as  much  salt,  and 

he  peel  of*  half  a  lemon ;  cover  all  with 
water,  stew,  and  when  the  gizzarfe  are 

,ender,  strain  the  soup. 
Now  put  into  a  stewpan  a  paste  made 

)f  an  ounce  of  butter  and  a  spoonful -of 
flour,  stir  it  over  the  fire  until  brown, 

>our  in  the  soup,  let  it  boil,  stirring  it 
tvell  all  the  while  ;  in  ten  minutes  skim 

,nd  strain  it,  add  a  glass  of  Madeira,  a 


170 


THE  PRACTICAL  HOUSEKEEPER. 


salt-spoonful  of  cayenne,  a  dessert-spoon- 
ful of  mushroom  ketchup,  squeeze  in 
the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  serve  up  with 
the  giblets  in  the  soup.  It  should  be  sent 
to  table  as  hot  as  possible. 

53  —POTAGE  1  .LA  EEINE 

Is  so  called  from  its  having  been  said 
to  be  a  favorite  soup  at  the  table  of  Her 
Majesty. 

Stew  two  or  three  young  fowls  for 
about  an  hour  in  good  fresh-made  veal 
broth :  then  take  them  out,  skin  them, 
and  pound  the  breast,  or  only  the  white 
meat,  in  a  mortar  until  it  becomes  quite 
smooth.  That  done,  mash  the  yolks  of 
three  or  four  hard-boiled  eggs  with  the 
crumb  of  a  French  roll  soaked  either  in 
the  broth  or  in  milk,  and  mix  this  with 
the  pounded  meat  to  form  a  paste,  which 
must  be  afterwards  passed  through  a 
sieve.  During  this  operation  the  bones 
and  skin  have  been  left  stewing  in  the 
broth,  which  must  then  be  strained,  and 
;  the  paste  put  gradually  into  it :  tnen 
let  it  boil  briskly  for  a  short  time,  stir- 
ring it  all  the  while  to  ensure  its  thor- 
ough mixture.  When  that  is  done  take 
it  from  the  fire ;  warm  a  pint  or  more  of 
cream,  and  pour  it  gently  into  the  soup. 

This  being  a  delicate  white  soup,  the 
broth  should  only  be  seasoned  with  salt 
and  mace,  nor  should  there  be  any  other 
vegetable  used  than  celery ;  but  the 
cream  may  be  flavored  with  almonds. 

64— RICE  SOUP. 

Take  white  stock,  season  it,  and  either 
whole  rice  boiled  till  very  tender,  or  the 
flour fpf  rice  may  be  used ;  one-half 
pound  will  be  sufficient  for  two  quarts 
of  broth. 


65.— YEAL  POTTAGE. 

Take  off  a  knuckle  of  veal  all  the  meat 
that  can  be  made  into  cutlets,  &c.,  and 


set  the  remainder  on  to  stew,  with  an 
onion,  a  bunch  of  herbs,  a  blade  of  mace 
some  whole  pepper,  and  five  pints  of 
water :  cover  it  close ;  and  let  it  do  on  a 
slow  fire,  four  or  five  hours  at  least. 
Strain  it,  and  set  it  by  till  next  day; 
then  take  the  fat  and  sediment  from  the 
jelly,  and  simmer  it  with  either  turnips, 
celery,  sea-kale,  and  Jerusalem  arti- 
chokes, or  some  of  each,  cut  into  small 
dice,  till  tender,  seasoning  it  with  salt  and 
pepper.  Before  serving,  rub  down  half  a 
spoonful  of  flour  with  half  a  pint  of  good 
cream  and  butter  the  size  of  a  walnut, 
and  boil  a  few  minutes.  Let  a  small  roll 
simmer  in  the  soup,  and  serve  this  with 
it.  It  should  be  as  thick  as  middling 
cream,  and,  if  thus  made  of  the  vegeta- 
bles above  mentioned,  will  make  a  very 
delicate  white  pottage.  The  pottage  may 
also  be  thickened  with  rice  and  pearl- 
barley  ;  or  the  veal  may  be  minced,  and 
served  up  in.  the  tureen. 

56.— VEAL  BROTH. 

Stew  a  knuckle  of  veal  of  four  or  five 
pounds  in  three  quarts  of  water,  with 
two  blades  of  mace,  an  onion,  a  head  of 
celery,  and  a  little  parsley,  pepper,  and 
salt ;  let  the  whole  simmer  very  gently 
until  the  liquor  is  reduced  to  two  quarts ; 
then  take  out  the  meat,  when  the  mu- 
cilaginous parts  are  done,  and  serve  it  up 
with  parsley  and  butter.  Add  to  the 
broth  either  two  ounces  of  rice  sepa- 
rately boiled,  or  of  vermicelli,  put  in  only 
long  enough  to  be  stewed  tender.  Dish 
the  knuckle  separately,  and  serve  it  with 
parsley  and  butter. 

57.— MULLAGATAWNEE. 

Slice  some  onions  and  a  few  shalots, 
put  them  in  a  mortar  with  half  a  pound 
of  fresh  butter,  beat  them  well,  add 
three  or  four  dessert- spoonfuls  of  curry- 
powder,  a  little, cayenne  pepper  and  salt ; 
cut  up  some  India  pickle,  which  pound 


GAME   SOUPS. 


171 


well  with  the  other  ingredients ;  add  flour 
sufficient  to  thicken  the  soup,  and  a  little 
cold  stock  to  work  the  whole  into  a  stiff 
paste.  When  beaten  moisten  it  occa- 
sionally with  broth  made  from  fresh  beef 
free  from  fat ;  when  fine  enough  pass  it 
through  a  sieve,  add  to  it  the  gravy  that 
the  heart  was  stewed  in,  and  as  much 
of  the  beef  broth  as  will  make  the  quan- 
tity of  soup  required.  Boil  it  up,  and 
add  more  seasoning  of  cayenne  and  salt. 
If  not  thick  enough,  add  flour  and  butter, 
until  it  becomes  of  the  consistency  of 
good  cream.  A  spoonful  of  sugar  and  a 
little  port  wine  are  improvements. 

SOUPS  OP  GAME,  POULTRY,  &C. 

58.— VENISON  SOUP.    (English.) 

Take  four  pounds  of  freshly  killed 
venison  cut  off  from  the  bones,  and  one 
pound  of  ham  in  small  slices.  Add  an 
onion  minced,  and  black  pepper  to  ycmr 
taste.  Put  only  as  much  water  as  will 
cover  it,  and  stew  it  gently  for  an  hour, 
keeping  the  pot  closely  covered.  Then 
skim  it  well,  and  pour  in  a  quart  of  boil- 
ing water.  Add  a  head  of  celery  cut  into 
small  pieces,  and  three  blades  of  mace. 
Boil  it  gently  two  and  a  half  hours  ;  then 
put  in  one  fourth  of  a  pound  of  butter,  divi- 
ded into  small  pieces,  and  rolled  in  flour, 
and  add  half  a  pint  of  port  or  Madeira 
wine.  Let  it  boil  a  quarter  of  an  hour  lon- 
ger, and  send  it  to  table  with  the  meat  in  it. 

Or  : — Take  a  breast  of  venison,  cut  it 
in  small  pieces,  and  stew  it  gently  in 
brown  gravy  soup.  Serve  it  with  roots 
cut  in  dice  and  French  beans  in  diamonds, 
adding  two  glasses  of  port  wine  when 
first  put  on. 

The  head  of  the  deer  chopped  in  pieces, 
and  the  flesh  stewed  to  a  jelly,  is  also  an 
excellent  addition  to  the  soup. 

59.— VENISON   SOUP. 
Cut  all  the  meat  off  a  forequarter  and 


shoulder  of  venison,  put  it  into  a  pot 
with  two  gallons  of  water,  a  large  onion, 
a  head  of  celery,  and  some  salt.  Simmer 
it  very  slowly  for  forty-eight  hours. 
Break  all  the  bones  and  put  them  in  an 
earthen  pot  just  covered  with  water ;  add 
a  little  salt,  cloves,  mace,  and  red  pepper. 
Place  the  pot  in  the  oven,  set  in  a  larger 
vessel  of  water,  and  let  them  stew  as 
long  as  the  soup. 

Strain  the  soup  clear,  and  add  the 
juice  of  the  bones.  Color  the  soup  with 
a  little  flour  and  a  lump  of  butter  as 
large  as  a  walnut,  browned  in  the  frying- 
pan.  Boil  it  up  quickly,  and  throw  in 
half  a  pint  of  port  wine. 

60.— TUKTLE   SOUP.* 

Hang  up  the  turtle  by  the  hind  fins, 
cut  off  the  head,  and  allow  it  to  drain. 

Cut  off  the  fore  fins;  separate  the 
callipash  (upper  shell)  from  the  callipee 
(under  shell),  beginning  at  the  hind  fins. 
Cut  off  the  fat  which  will  be  found  ad- 
hering to  the  callipash  and  to  the  lean 
meat  of  the  callipee.  Then  cut  off  the 
hind  fins.  Take  off  the  lean  meat  from 
the  callipee  and  from  the  fins,  and  cut  it 
into  pieces  two  inches  square  and  put 
into  a  stewpan.  The  callipash,  callipee, 
and  fins,  must  be  held  in  scalding  (not 
boiling)  water  for  a  few  minutes,  which 
will  cause  the  shell  to  detach  easily. 

Cut  the  callipash  and  callipee  into 
pieces  six  inches  square,  which  put  into 
a  stock-pot  with  some  light  veal  stock. 
Let  it  boil  until  the  meat  is  tender,  and 
then  take  it  out  into  cold  water ;  free 
the  meat  from  the  bones,  and  cut  it  into 
pieces  an  inch  square.  Return  the  bones 
into  the  stock  and  let  it  boil  gently  for 
two  hours,  strain  it  off,  and  it  is  then  fit 
for  use. 

Cut  the  fins  across  into  pieces  about 

*  This  receipt  Is  a  most  excellent  one,  and  is  in  con- 
stant use  by  the  party  who  favored  us  with  it ;  and 
we  may  add,  that  some  thousands  of  pounds  weight 
of  turtle  pass  through  his  hands  every  year. 


172 


THE  PRACTICAL  HOUSEKEEPER. 


an  inch  wide,  boil  them  in  stock  with  an 
onion,  two  or  three  cloves,  a  fagot  of  pars- 
ley and  thyme,  a  sprig  of  sweet  basil  and 
marjoram.  When  tender  take  them  out 
and  add  this  stock  to  the  other. 

Take  the  lean  meat,  put  into  a  stew- 
pan  with  a  pint  of  Madeira,  four  table- 
spoonfuls  of  chopped  green  shalots,  two 
lemons  sliced,  a  bunch  of  thyme,  marjo- 
ram, and  savory  (about  two  tablespoon- 
fuls  each  when  chopped),  one  and  a  half 
tablespoonfuls  of  sweet  basil  (chopped), 
and  four  tablespoonfuls  of  parsley.  Pound 
together  a  nutmeg,  one  dozen  allspice, 
one  blade  of  mace,  five  or  six  cloves,  one 
tablespoonful  of  pepper  and  of  salt.  Mix 
the  whole  together  with  as  much  curry- 
powder  as  will  lie  on  a  shilling.  Put 
about  two-thirds  of  this  to  the  lean  meat, 
with  half  a  pound  of  fresh  butter  and  one 
quart  stock.  Let  the  whole  be  gently 
sweated  until  the  meat  is  done. 

Take  a  large  knuckle  of  ham,  cut  it  into 
very  small  dice,  put  into  a  stewpan  with 
four  large  onions  sliced,  six  bay-leaves, 
three  blades  of  mace,  one  dozen  allspice, 
three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  butter ;  let 
it  sweat  until  the  onions  are  melted. 
Shred  a  small  bunch  of  basil,  a  larger 
one  of  thyme,  savory,  and  marjoram;  throw 
these  into  the  onions,  and  keep  them  as 
green  as  possible:  when  sweated  suffi- 
ciently, add  flour  according  lo  your  judg- 
ment sufficient  to  thicken  the  soup.  Add 
by  degrees  the  stock  in  which  the  calli- 
pash  and  callipee  were  boiled,  -and  the 
seasoning  stock  from  the  lean  meat.  Boil 
for  an  hour ;  run  through  a  tammy,  and 
add  salt,  cayenne,  and  lemon  juice  to 
palate.  Then  put  in  the  meat ;  let  it  all 
boil  gently  about  half  an  hour  ;  and  if 
more  wine  be  required,  it  must  be  boiled 
before  being  added  to  the  soup.  This  is 
for  a  turtle  of  from  forty  to  fifty  pounds. 
It  should,  however,  be  recollected  that 
the  animal  is  of  various  weight — from  a 
chicken-turtle  of  forty  pounds  to  some 
hundreds— and  the  condiments  must  be 


apportioned  accordingly.  It  should  in 
variably  be  made  the  day  before  it  is 
wanted. 

61.— MOCK  TUETLE. 

Half  a  calf's  head  will  be  quite  suffi- 
cient, even  if  it  be  small,  to  provide  soup 
enough  for  a  moderate  party,  as  it  will 
fill  a  tureen  of  two  quarts ;  but  it  must 
be  fresh  and  unstripped  of  the  skin, 
which  is  the  most  gelatinous  part. 

Take  out  the  brains ;  clean  the  head 
carefully  in  hot  water,  by  squeezing  it 
with  the  hand  to  press  out  the  blood, 
and  leave  it  afterwards  for  an  hour  in 
cold  water.  Then  put  it  into  five  or  six 
quarts  of  warm  water  along  with  two 
pounds  of  veal,  two  pounds  of  delicate 
pickled  pork,  chiefly  fat,  a  roasted  onion 
or  two  stuck  full  of  cloves,  and  the  thinly 
pared  rind  of  a  lemon,  together  with  a 
large  bundle  of  savory  pot-herbs,  two 
slices  carrots,  and  a  head  of  celery.  Let 
this  boil  for  two  hours ;  then  take  up 
the  head  and  the  pork.  The  head  must 
be  stripped  of  its  skin,  and  the  brain, 
tongue,  and  eye  taken  out ;  let  the  bones 
of  the  head  be  broken  and  returned  to 
the  soup,  and  boil  two  hours  longer — the 
brains  being  made  into  forcemeat  balls, 
the  tongue  skinned  and  sliced  ;  the  black 
part  of  the  eye  should  also  be  taken  out, 
and  the  remainder  minced;  the  skin 
being  cut  into  pieces  of  little  more  than 
an  inch  square.  While  the  stock  is  boil- 
ing, put  into  a  saucepan  a  small  quan- 
tity of  fresh  butter,  with  some  onions 
sliced  thin,  a  little  basil,  marjoram,  and 
parsley,  a  very  small  quantity  of  thyme, 
three  bay-leaves,  two  blades  of  mace,  a 
few  allspice;  sweat  all  these  well  over 
the  fire  ;  when  done,  add  sufficient  flour 
to  thicken  the  soup.  Stir  in  the  boiling 
stock  By  degrees  to  avoid  its  being  lumpy 
let  it  boil  gently  for  an  hour,  then  rub  it 
through  a  tammy,  set  it  over  the  fire ; 
when  it  boils  add  the  meat.  About  ten 
minutes  before  you  serve,  season  the  soup 


GAME   SOUPS. 


173 


to  your  taste  with  salt,  a  small  quantity 
of  cayenne  pepper,  a  couple  of  spoonfuls 
of  soy,  a  good  squeeze  of  lemon-juice,  to- 
gether with  nearly  a  pint  of  either  Madei- 
ra or  Sherry.  Serve  with  two  lemons 
upon  a  plate,  cut  in  half,  as  some  people 
like  the  soup  to  be  somewhat  acid.  Mush- 
rooms are  sometimes  added. 

The  soup  will  take  at  least  seven  or 
eight  hours  in  preparation;  A  calf's  head 
requires  half  its  own  weight  of  meat  to 
make  the  broth  of  proper  quality. 

62.— NEAT'S  FEET  SOUP. 

Take  two  neat's  feet,  cut  them  as  you 
d^  a  calf's  head :  take  five  pints  of  any 
sort  of  broth,  the  juice  and  rind  of  one 
lemon,  some  parsley  and  herbs  chopped 
fine  ;  send  these  to  the  oven ;  when  it 
comes  from  the  oven,  put  in  a  pint  of 
strong  gravy  and  a  cup  of  white  wine, 
some  hard  eggs  and  forcemeat  balls ; 
season  with  cayenne  pepper  and  salt, 

To  these  an  excellent  addition  will  be 
found  in  one  pound  of  the  belly  part  of 
very  delicate  pickled  pork;  for  it  will 
improve  the  flavor  of  the  soup,  and,  if 
cut  neatly  into  bits,  will  taste  nearly  as 
rich,  and  quite  as  savory,  as  the  fat  of  the 
head,  or  the  gelatinous  parts  of  the  feet. 
Any  of  these  receipts  for  mock  turtl 
may  be  also  made  from  pig's  face  and 
pettitoes;  and  in  most  country-houses 
as  well  as  at  sea — where  pigs  are  gener- 
ally kept  for  fresh  meat— the  head  is 
commonly  made  into  soup  in  imitation  o' 
turtle. 

It  has  become  unfashionable  among 
first-rate  cooks  to  put  those  egg-balls 
formerly  so  common,  into  mock-turtle 
but  as  they  are  still  used  by  those  of  the 
old  school,  we  here  add  their  mode  of 
preparation : — 

Take  out  the  yolks  of  some  hard-boile( 
eggs,  and  beat  them  in  a  mortar  wit! 
a  very  little  salt  and  cayenne,  and  mak 
them  into  a  paste  with  the  white  of 
raw  egg.    Roll  the  paste  into  balls  no 


arger  than  marbles,  put  them  into  the 
oup,  and  .boil  for  ten  minutes. 

68.— LA  TORTUE-- TURTLE  SOUP. 
(Ude's  Receipt,  most  carefully  revised.)* 

This  soup  will  be  made  with  less  diffi- 
ulfy  if  you  cut  off  the  head  of  the  tur- . 
le  the  preceding  day. 

In  the  morning  open  the  turtle  :  which 

s  done  by  leaning  heavily  with  your  knife 

n  the  shell  of  the  animal's  back,  whilst 

ou  cut  it  off  all  round.     Turn  it  upright 

n  its  end,  that  all  the  water,  &c.,  may 

run  out.     Then  cut  the  flesh  off  along 

he  spine,  with  your  knife  sloped  towards 

;he  bones,  for  fear  of  touching  the  gall, 

which  sometimes  escapes  the  eye.   TV  hen 

you  have  obtained  all  the  flesh  which  is 

about  the  members,  wash  it  clean  and 

tet  it  drain. 

Have  ready  a  large  vessel  full  of  boil- 
ing water  on  the  fire,  put  in  the  shells, 
and  when  you  perceive  that  they  come 
off  easily,  take  them  out  of  the  water, 
and  prick  all  the  shells  of  the  back, 
belly,  fins,  head,  &c.  Boil  the  back  and 
belly  till  you  can  take  off  the  bones, 
without,  however,  allowing  the  softer 
parts  to  be  sufficiently  done,  as  they 
must  boil  again  in  'the  sauce.  When 
these  latter  come  off  easily,  lay  them  on 
earthen  dishes  singly,  for  fear  they 
should  stick  together,  and  put  them  to 
cool.  Keep  the  liquor  in  which  you 
have  blanched  the  softer  parts,  and  let 
the  bones  stew  thoroughly  in  it,  as  this 
liquor  must  be  used  to  moisten  the  broth. 
All  the  flesh  of  the  interior  parts,  the 
four  legs  and  head,  must  be  sweated  in 
the  following  manner:— 

Lay  a  few  slices  of  ham  on  the  bottom 

*  In  perfecting  the  above  receipt  for  turtle  soup, 
which  the  author  can  without  vanity  assert,  is  1 
lest  if  not  the  only  authentic  and  practical  . 
in  print,  the  author  has  bestowed  his  utmost  care 
and  attention.    When  in  manuscript  he  obtained  a 
very  high  price  for  it. 


174 


THE    PRACTICAL    HOUSEKEEPER. 


of  a  very  large  stewpan.  Lay  over  the 
ham  two  or  three  knuckles  of  veal,  ac- 
cording to  the  size  of  the  turtle,  and  over 
the  veal  the  inside  flesh  of  the  turtle, 
and  the  members  over  the  whole.  Then 
partly  moisten  it  with  the  water  in  which 
you  have  boiled  the  shell,  and  sweat  it 
thoroughly.  You  can  ascertain  if  the 
meat  be  thoroughly  done,  by  thrusting 
your  knife  into  the  fleshy  part  of  the 
meat.  If  no  blood  issue,  moisten  it 
again  with  the  liquor  in  which  the  bones, 
&c.,  have  been  boiling:  put  in  a  large 
bunch  of  all  such  sweet  herbs  as  are 
used  in  the  cpoking  of  a  turtle:  sweet 
bacil  sweet  marjoram,  lemon  thyme, 
winter  savory,  two  or  three  bay-leaves, 
common  thyme,  a  handful  of  parsley  and 
green  onions,  and  a  large  onion  stucK 
with  six  cloves.  Let  the  whole  be  thor- 
oughly done.  Observe  that  you  must 
only  put  in  the  bunch  of  parsley  and  the 
stalks  of  the  herbs,  as  you  must  keep  the 
tender  part  of  the  leaves  to  make  a  puree 
of  herbs,  to  introduce  in  the  sauce  when 
finished. 

With  respect  to  the  members,  probe 
them,  to  see  whether  they  are  done,  and 
when  done,  drain  and  send  them  to  the 
larder,  as  they  are  to  make  their  appear- 
ance only  when  the  sauce  is  absolutely 
completed. 

When  the  flesh  is  also  completely  done, 
drain  it  on  the  dish,  and  make  a  white 
thickening,  very  thin,  for  turtle  soup 
must  not  be  much  thickened ;  when  the 
flour  is  sufficiently  done  on  a  slow  fire, 
and  has  a  good  color,  moisten  it  with  the 
liquor  drained  through  a  silk  sieve,  and 
turn  the  sauce  over  the  fire  till  it  boils. 

Ascertain  that  the  sauce  is  neither  too 
thick  nor  too  thin,  and  then  put  the 
etewpan  on  the  side  of  the  stove,  to  skim 
off  all  the  white  scum,  and  all  the  fat  and 
oil,  that  rise  on  the  surface  of  the  sauce. 
By  this  time  all  the  softer  parts  will  be 
cold  enough  ;  cut  them  about  an  inch  or 


two  square,  without  waste,  throw  the 
whole  into  the  sauce,  which  must  sim- 
mer gently.  Then  try  them  again ;  for 
if  done  enough,  they  are  not  to  be  kept 
on  the  fire  any  longer.  Skim  oif  all  the 
fat  and  froth.  Take  all  the  leaves  of  the 
herbs  from  the  stalks,  sweet  basil,  sweet 
marjoram,  lemon  thyme,  winter  savory, 
common  thy  in  e.  a  handful  of  parsley  and 

en  onions,  and  a  large  onion  cut  in 
four  pieces,  with  a  few  leaves  of  mace ; 
put  them  in  a  stewpan,  with  about  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  fresh  butter.  Let 
this  simmer  on  a  slow  fire,  till  they  are 
quits  melted,  then  pour  in  one  bottle  of 
good  Madeira  wine,  adding  a  small  bit  of 
sugar,  and  let  this  boil  gently  for  one 
hour.  When  done,  rub  this  through  a 
tammy,  and  put  it  into  the  sauce.  Let 
this  boil  till  no  white  scum  rises :  then 
take,  with  a  skimmer,  all  the  bits  of  tur- 
tle out  of  the  sauce,  and  put  them  in  a 
clean  stewpan ;  when  you  have  all  out, 
pour  the  sauce  over  the  bits  of  turtle, 
through  a  tammy,  and  proceed  as  fol- 
lows : — 

Make  some  quenelles  a  tortue  (turtle 
quenelles),  which  being  substitutes  for 
eggs  do  not  require  to  be  very  delicate. 
They  are  made  in  the  following  manner : 
Take  out  the  fleshy  part  of  a  leg  of  veal, 
about  one  pound,  scrape  off  all  the  meat, 
without  leaving  any  sinews  or  fat,  and 
soak  in  milk  about  the  same  quantity  of 
crumbs  of  bread.  When  the  bread  is 
well  soaked,  squeeze  it,  and  put  it  into  a 
mortar  with  the  veal,  a  small  quantity 
of  calf  s  udder,  a  little  butter,  the  yolks 
of  four  eggs  boiled  hard,  a  little  cayenne 
pepper,  salt,  and  spices,  and  pound  the 
whole  very  fine.  Then  thicken  the  mix- 
ture with  two  whole  eggs,  and  the  yolk 
of  another. 

Next  try  this  farce  or  stuffing  in  boil- 
ing hot  water,  to  ascertain  its  consisten- 
cy ;  if  you  find  it  too  thin,  add  the  yolk 
of  an  egg.  Wheii  the  stuffing  is  perfect- 


GAME    SOUPS. 


175 


ed3  take  half  of  it,  and  put  into  it  some 
chopped  parsley.  Let  the  whole  cool,  in 
order  to  roll  it  of  the  size  of  the  yolk  of 
an  egg  or  smaller:  poach  it  in  salt  and 
boiling  water,  and  when  very  hard  drain 
on  a  sieve,  and  put  it  into  the  turtle. 
You  must  make  two  sorts  of  quenelles, 
white  and  green,  those  with  parsley 
green,  and  the  other  half  white. 

Before  you  send  up.  squeeze  the  juice 
of  two  or  three  lemons,  with  a  little  cay- 
enne pepper,  and  pour  it  into  the  soup. 
The  fins  may  be  served  as  a  plat  d'en- 
tree,  or  side  dish,  with  a  little  turtle 
sauce  ;  if  not,  on  the  following  day  you 
may  warm  the  turtle  in  the  hot-water 
bath,  and  serve  the  members  entire  with 
a  matelotte  sauce,  garnished  with  mush- 
rooms, cocks'-combs,  quenelles,  &c. 
When  either  lemon-juice  or  cayenne  pep- 
per have  been  introduced,'  no  boiling 
must  take  place.  It  is  necessary  to  ob- 
serve, that  the  turtle  prepared  a  day  be- 
fore it  is  used  is  generally  preferred,  the 
flavor  being  more  uniform.  When  lem- 
on juice  is  used  be  very  cautious  that  the 
lemons  are  good ;  a  musty  lemon  wil] 
spoil  all  the  turtle,  and  too  much  will 
destroy  the  flavor. 

Be  particular,  when  you  dress  a  very 
large  turtle,  to  preserve  the  green  fat  in 
a  separate  stewpan,  and  likewise,  when 
the  turtle   is  entirely  done,  to  have 
many  tureens  as  you  mean  to  serve  each 
time.     You  cannot  put  the  whole  in  a 
large  vessel,  for  many  reasons :  first,  i 
will  be  long  in  cooling ;  secondly,  when 
you  take  some  out,  it  will  break  all  th 
rest  into  rags.     If  you  warm  in  a  hot 
water  bath,  the  turtle  will  always  retain 
the  same  taste,  but  if  you  boil  it  often 
it  becomes  strong  and  loses  the  delicac) 
of  its  flavor. 

It  is  not  the  fashion  to  serve  eggs  with 
turtle,  but  it  may  be  necessary  to  inquire 
whether  they  are  preferred. 

Some  people  require  besides,  frican- 
deaux,  fricassees,  &c.,  all  of  which  are 


repared  in  the  same  manner  as  veal,  but 
made  with  those  parts  of  flesh  that  are 
o  be  found  in  the  turtle,  four  in  number, 
wo  in  the  legs  and  two  in  the  shoulders  j 
rou  may  likewise  make  blanquette,  &c. 

64— MOCK  TURTLE,  ENGLISH  FASHION. 

Take  a  calf's  head  very  white  and  very 
resh,  bone  the  nose  part  of  it ;  put  the 
lead  into  some  warm  water  to  discharge 
;he  blood ;  squeeze  the  flesh  with  your 
land,  to  ascertain  that  it  is  all  out. 
Mind,  the  water  should  never  be  too  hot 
br  you  to  bear  your  hand  in  it ;  as  long 
as  you  can  bear  it  the  blood  will  come 
out,  but  if  you  suffer  it  to  be  too  hot  it 
will  turn  the  head  black.  This  method 
of  disgorging  the  blood  is  to  give  the 
same  heat  to  the  blood  as  when  the  ani- 
mal was  alive,  and  if  your  hand  will  bear 
the  heat  it  shows  that  the  blood  may  cir- 
culate in  the  veins,  but  if  the  water  be 
too  hot  the  blood  will  curdle,  as  it  does 
in  black  pudding.  When  well  disgorged, 
blanch  the  head  in  boiling  water ;  when 
firm,  put  it  into  cold  water,  and  make  a 
blanc  to  boil  the  head,  as  follows  : — Cut 
half  a  pound  of  fat  bacon,  a  pound  of 
beef  suet,  an  onion  stuck  with  a  clove, 
and  two  slices  of  lemon ;  add  to  these 
slices  of  carrot,  a  bunch  of  parsley,  green 
onions,  thyme,  bay-leaves,  sweet  basil, 
salt  and  pepper ;  put  all  these  into  a  ves- 
sel, with  water  enough  to  contain  the 
head ;  tie  the  head  tightly  in  a  clean 
towel,  put  it  in  the  blanc,  and  boil  two 
hours  and  a  half;  ojbserve  that  it  be  not 
overdone  ;  let  it  cool  in  the  liquor,  then 
make  the  sauce  in  tbe  following  man- 
ner : — 

Put  into  a  stewpan  a  pound  of  ham 
cut  in  slices,  put  over  the  ham  two 
knuckles  of  veal,  a  large  onion,  and  two 
carrots  ;  moisten  with  some  of  the  broth 
in  which  you  have  boiled  the  head,  to 
half  the  depth  of  the  meat  only :  cover 
the  stewpan,  and  put  it  over  the  fire  to 
sweat  through ;  let  the  broth  reduce  to 


176 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


a  very  good  color,  turn  up  the  meat  for 
fear  of  burning.  When  you  have  a  very 
good  color,  and  you  find  that  the  glaze  is 
very  brown,  moisten  with  the  whole  of 
the  broth  from  the  head,  season  with  a 
large  bundle  of  sweet  herbs,  viz.,  sweet 
basil,  sweet  marjoram,  lemon  thyme, 
common  thyme,  two  cloves,  a  bay-leaf, 
a  few  allspice,  parsley,  green  onions,  and 
a  few  mushrooms ;  let  this  boil  together 
for  one  hour,  then  drain  it. 

Put  into  a  stewpan  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  very  fresh  butter,  let  it  melt 
over  a  slow  fire ;  put  to  this  butter  as 
much  flour  as  it  can  receive;  let  it  go 
gently  over  a  slow  fire,  till  the  flour  has 
acquired  a  very  good  brown  color ; 
moisten  this  gradually  with  the  broth, 
which  you  put  through  a  silk  sieve,  till 
you  have  employed  it  all ;  add  half  a  bot- 
tle of  Madeira ;  let  the  sauce  boil,  that 
the  flour  may  be  well  done ;  take  off  all 
the  scum  and  fat,  and  drain  the  sauce 
into  a  clean  stewpan  large  enough  to 
contain  the  calf  s  head ;  boil  the  whole 
till  done,  cut  the  calf  s  head  into  square 
pieces  of  about  an  inch  each ;  put  them 
to  boil  in  the  sauce ;  season  with  salt 
and  a  little  cayenne  pepper.  The  bits  of 
calf  s  head  should  always  have  the  skin 
on  one  side,  but  you  should  leave  none 
of  the  meat  on,  which  does  not  adhere  to 
the  skin,  otherwise  the  meat  will  break 
in  the  soup,  and  look  unseemly.  It  is 
out  of  fashion  now  to  use  eggs;  but  on 
this  head  the  taste  of  the  master  should 
be  consulted,  and  you  may  make  quen- 
elles instead. 

Observe,  that  you  must  not  have  the 
quenellgs  too  delicate,  for  they  would 
break  in  the  soup  and  ^spoil  the  look  of 
it ;  the  calf's  head  must  not  be  too  much 
done;  thrust  your  knife  into  tfee  skin, 
and'  if  the  knife  enters  and  detaches  it- 
self easily,  the  meat  is  done  enough. 

Some  persons  will  have  their  mock 
turtle  green ;  in  which  case  you  must  do 
as  follows :  Put  into  a  stewpan  a  quar- 


ter of  a  pound  of  fresh  butter,  mince  one 
or  two  onions,  add  a  handful  of  each  of 
the  herbs  described  above,  and  some 
parsley,  and  sweat  it  all  gently  over  a 
slow  fire.  "When  the  herbs  are  well 
done,  moisten  with  some  of  the  sauce, 
and  rub  it  through  a  tammy.  Mix  this 
with  the  sauce,  and  the  turtle  will  be 
green,  without  any  alteration  in  the  fla- 
vor. Cayenne  and  lemon  are  always 
added  when  you  serve  up  the  soup. 

65.— THE  GAEBUEE,  WITH  BEOWN  BEEAD. 
Take  a  knuckle  of  ham,  perfectly  sweet? 
a  knuckle  of  veal,  and  about  six  pounds 
of  flank  of  beef,  which  put  into  a  pan, 
with  an  onion  stuck  with  two  cloves,  a 
few  carrots,  &c. ;  pour  over  the  above 
two  ladles  of  broth,  and  let  the  whole 
sweat  over  a  slow  fire.  When  the  meat 
is  done  through  the  middle,  cover  it  en- 
tirely with  boiling  broth,  and  let  the 
whole  stew  for  three  hours.  Then  take 
one  or  more  cabbages,  which  are  to  be 
washed  clean  and  blanched.  Braise 
them  between  layers  of  bacon,  and  moist- 
en them  with  the  liquor  in  which  the 
sweating  has  ben  made,  strained  through 
a  silk  sieve.  You  must  observe  that,  if 
the  cabbages  are  not  made  rich  and  mellow, 
they  are  good  for  nothing.  Add  to  the 
above,  either  sausages,  bacon,  or  stewed 
legs  of  geese  :  mind  above  all  things  that 
the  cabbage  be  not  too  briny,  for  the  soup 
then  would  not  be  eatable.  When  the 
cabbage  and  broth  are  stewed  enough, 
cut  very  thin  slices  of  rye-bread  :  drain 
the  cabbage  in  a  cloth,  so  that  there  be 
no  fat  left,  then  take  a  large  deep  silver 
dish,  lay  a  bed  of  bread,  and  over  that 
one  of  cabbage,  and  moisten  them  with  a 
little  broth ;  let  them  stew  on  a  slow 
fire.  When  the  cabbage  and  bread  are 
sufficiently  moistened,  lay  on  six  or 
eight  beds  more  of  each,  and  let  it  sim- 
mer on  the  stove  till  the  bottom  of  the 
dish  is  gratined,  as  what  sticks  to  the 
bottom  of  the  dish  is  most  tasty  and  pal- 


1 


GAME    SOUPS. 


177 


atable.  Send  up  with  the  ham  on  the 
middle ;  the  bacon,  the  legs  of  geese,  and 
sausages  on  the  borders,  and  some  broth 
separately.* 

66.-POTAGE  1  LA  REINE— (Queen  Soup.) 
(Ude's  New  Eeceipt.)t 

For  twelve  people  take  three  fat  chick- 
ens or  pullets,  which  are  generally  cheap- 
er and  better  than  fowls :  skin  them,  take 
out  the  lungs,  wash  them  clean,  and  put 
them  in  a  pah  with  a  bunch  of  parsley 
only;  moisten  the  whole  with  good 
boiling  broth :  let  it  stew  for  an  hour, 
then  take  out  the  chickens:  soak  the 
crumb  of  two  penny  loaves  hi  the  broth ; 
take  off  the  flesh  of  the  chickens,  and 
pound  it  with  the  yolks  of  three  or  four 
eggs  boiled  hard,  and  the  crumb  of  bread 
which  has  been  sufficiently  soaked  in  the 
broth.  Rub  the  whole  through  a  tammy ; 
then  put  a  quart  of  cream  on  the  fire, 
and  keep  stirring  it  continually  till  it 
boils.  Pour  it  into  the  soup.  It  is  not 
so  liable  to  curdle  as  when  the  other 
method  is  used,  and  it  tastes  more  of  the 
chickens.  If  you  think  proper  to  add 
either  barley,  rice,  or  vermicelli,  let  it  be 
stewed  in  broth  beforehand,  and  pour  it 
into  the  soup  only  when  quite  done. 
When  you  have  a  great  dinner,  and  fowls 
are  very  dear,  use  the  fillets  for  the  first- 
course  dishes,  and  make  the  soup  with 
the  legs  only ;  the  soup  is  as  good,  but 
not  quite  so  white,  as  when  mad  3  with 
the  fillets. 

67.-RICE  CEEAM.  (Tide.) 
This  is  flour  of  rice,  which  you  make 
yourself  in  the  following  manner.  Take 
a  pound  of  rice,  well  washed  in  different 
waters,  and  drained  and  wiped  with  a 
clean  towel.  Let  it  get  quite  dry,  then 


*  This  soup  is  never  se«n  in  this  country ;  it 
requires  a  very  deep  and  very  large  dish. 

t  Formerly  I  used  roasted  chicken  to  make  this 
potage,  but  I  have  found  this  new  method  cheaper, 
and  not  so  subject  to  curdle  as  the  other  method. 


pound  and  shake  it  through  a  sieve.  Take 
one  or  two  spoonfuls  of  this  flour,  and 
dilute  it  with  broth,  rather  cold  than 
hot.  All  this  time  have  some  broth  on 
the  fire;  throw  the  flour  of  rice  thus 
diluted  into  the  broth,  and  keep  stirring 
till  you  find  the  soup  is  not  too  thick  and 
may  boil  without  the  rice  burning.  This 
same  kind  of  rice-flour  may  serve  for 
souffles,  or  puffs,  of  the  second  course. 

68.— MOCK  TURTLE  SOUP. 

This  soup,  if  well  made,  gives  general 
satisfaction.  Take  a  calf 's  head,  thorough- 
ly scraped  and  cleane^,  the  .skin  remain- 
ing on ;  place  it  in  a  soup  pot ;  to  this 
add  that  part  of  the  hand  of  pickled  pork 
which  is  free  from  bones,  the  fattest  end, 
observing  that  it  is  proper  to  soak  it  well 
in  water  previous  to  using ;  put  in  sweet 
herbs,  a  couple  of  onions3  a  head  of  celery, 
if  large,  a  few  truffles  and  morels,  two  if 
small,  pounded  mace  and  pepper;  add 
plenty  of  water,  without  quite  filling  the 
saucepan ;  boil  slowly,  until  the  meat  has 
become  tender,  then  remove  it,  and  cut 
the  meat  from  the  bone  into  square 
pieces ;  break  the  bones  and  put  them 
again  into  the  soup ;  let  it  simmer  for 
four  or  five  hours,  then  place  it  where  it 
can  quickly  cool,  remove  the  fat  and 
strain  the  soup ;  thicken  with  flour  and 
butter ;  add  three  table-spoonfuls  of  Har- 
vey's sauce,  four  or  five  glasses  of  Sherry 
or  Madeira,  and  squeeze  a  whole  lemon 
into  it ;  add  the  meat  of  the  head  and 
the  pork  cut  into  well  shaped  pieces; 
conclude  with  egg  balls,  or  force-meat, 
or  both,  warm  it  and  serve ;  it  will  be 
found  a  delicious  soup. 

69.— MOCK  TURTLE  SOUP. 
Blanch  half  a  calf 's  head  sufficiently  to 
draw  out  the  bones  ;  cut  off  the  ear  and 
the  tongue ;  take  off  the  skin  of  the 
tongue,  lay  all  separate  until  cold,  and 
strain  off  the  liquor,  and  add  it  to  your 
veal  or  second  stock ;  cut  the  meat  into 


178 


THE  PRACTICAL  HOUSEKEEPER. 


large  square  dice,  put  it  into  a  stewpan 
with  your  already  prepared  stock,  and 
stew  it  until  tender,  strain  off  some  of  the 
stock ;  get  another  stewpan,  cut  about  one 
pound  of  lean  York  or  Westphalia  ham, 
one  pound  of  lean  veal,  a  good  fagot  of 
basil  and  knotted-marjoram,  two  or  three 
blades  of  mace,  six  or  seven  cloves,  two 
bay -leaves,  four  onions,  the  parings  of  a 
few  mushrooms,  half  a  pound  of  butter ; 
fry  them  for  some  time  a  nice  light  brown, 
dry  all  up  with  flour,  then  add  your  stock 
you  have  previously  strained  from  the  cut 
pieces ;  if  too  thick  add  more  stock ;  let  all 
boil  for  some  timekeeping  it  stirred  with 
a  wooden  spoon ;  when  boiled  sufficient, 
strain  it  through  a  tammy  or  tammy- 
sieve  into  the  stewpan  that  has  the  cut 
pieces  of  the  head ;  boil  all  together ;  sea- 
son with  sugar,  cayenne  pepper,  and  salt, 
juice  of  lemon  and  white  wine ;  if  you 
wish  to  preserve  the  old  fashion,  by  hav- 
ing forcemeat  balls,  egg,  &c.,  refer  for 
them  to  the  previous  receipt ;  add  them 
to  it  when  they  are  blanched.  I  only 
put  hard-boiled  eggs,  and,  if  I  have  any, 
a  few  quenelles. 

70.— HARE  SOUP. 

An  old  hare  is  fitted  only  for  soup  or 
jugging.  To  render  it  into  soup  let  it  be 
cleaned,  cut  into  pieces,  add  a  pound  and 
a  half  or  two  pounds  of  beefj  to  which 
there  is  little  or  no  fat ;  place  it  at  the 
bottom  of  the  pan ;  add  two  or  three 
slices  of  ham  or  bacon,  or  a  little  of  both, 
a  couple  of  onions,  and  some  sweet  herbs ; 
add  four  quarts  of  boiling  water,  let  it 
stew  to  shreds,  strain  off  the  soup  and 
take  away  the  fat ;  reboil  it,  add  a  spoon- 
ful of  soy  or  Harvey's  sauce,  send  to  the 
table  with  a  few  force-meat  balls. 

71.— HAEE  SOUP,  OK  WILD  DUCK  SOUP. 

Take  a  brace  of  Canadian  hares  or  of 
wild  ducks,  and  cut  them  up.  Cook  one 
moderately  in  an  earthen  pot  with  as 
much  water  as  will  cover  it ;  some  cloves, 
salt  and  black  pepper  ;  the  pot  being 


set  in  a  large  vessel  full  of  water,  in  a 
close  oven. 

Simmer  the  other  till  it  is  done  com- 
pletely to  rags  in  a  gallon  of  water,  and 
season  it  with  cloves,  salt,  and  black 
pepper. 

Strain  the  soup  clear  and  make  force- 
meat balls  of  the  residue,  with  the  yolk 
of  an  egg,  some  fine  herbs,  grated  lemon 
peel,  and  a  Jittle  stale  bread. 

The  hare  or  duck  cooked  in  the  earth- 
en pot  must  be  cut  in  pieces  two  inches 
square.  Color  the  soup  with  browning, 
throw  in  the  forcemeat  balls  and  cut 
meat ;  boil  it  up  quick,  and  add  half  a 
pint  of  port  wine. 

72.— YELOUTE. 

Take  the  cuttings  and  remains  of  any 
joints  of  fowls  and  veal  you  may  happen 
to  have,  weigh  four  pounds,  aud  put  into 
a  large  stewpan.  with  some  onions, 
carrots,  parsley,  scallions,  three  bay 
leaves,  three  cloves,  and  a  ladleful  of 
stock ;  put  your  stewpan  upon  a  brisk 
fire,  skim  well,  and  be  careful  the  meat 
does  not  stick;  when  enough  reduced 
add  as  much  stock  as  will  nearly  fill  the 
stewpan,  salt  it  well,  give  it  a  boil,  skim, 
and  then  put  it  on  the  side  of  the  fire  to 
simmer  for  two  hours,  after  which  strain 
it  through  a  tammy ;  make  a  white  roux  ; 
stir  into  it  for  ten  minutes  a  few  cham- 
pignons, then  pour  on  it,  a  little  at  a 
time,  the  above  liquor,  let  it  boil  up 
once,  skim,  and  set  it  again  by  the  side 
of  the  fire  for  an  hour  and  a  half,  remove 
all  fat,  strain  again  and  then  put  by  for 
use.  The  veloute  should  be  colorless, 
the  whiter  it  is  the  better. 

73.— PIGEON  SOUP. 

Take  half  a  dozen  of  the  fattest  pigeons 
you  can  get,  roast  them  only  sufficient  to 
warm  them  through  ;  cut  the  meat  from 
the  bones;  flour  the  latter  well,  and 
pound  them  in  a  mortar ;  stew  them  in 


GAME    AND    VEGETABLE    SOUPS. 


179 


a  pint  and  a  half  of  good  gravy,  add.  a 
piece  of  butter  rolled  in  flour,  a  bunch  of 
tarragon,  chervil,  a  few  onions,  shalots, 
parsley,  and  basil,  a  few  turnips,  and 
carrots  sliced ;  season  with  cayenne  and 
one  blade  of  mace.  Boil  slowry  two 
hours,  pour,  and  pass  through  a  cullen- 
der. Pulp  through  a  tammy,  and  then 
with  the  flesh  of  the  pigeons  put  them 
into  a  saucepan.  Let  it  simmer  one  hour 
and  serve. 

74— SNAPPING  TUETLE  SOUP. 

Clean  and  dissect  your  snapping  turtle ; 
add  water  according  to  size,  taking  care 
not  to  put  in  enough  to  thin  the  soup. 
Stew  six  or  eight  hours.  Add  a  teacup- 
ful  of  browned  flour,  four  ounces  of 
butter,  six  eggs,  one  ounce  of  cloves,  one 
ounce  of  mace,  one  ounce  of  allspice,  half 
a  pint  of  sherry  wine;  boil  up  and 
serve. 

Soup  may  be  made  in  the  same  way  of 
the  "  couter  "  of  the  South.  Forcemeat 
balls  made  of  veal  are  usually  added, 
with  the  eggs  found  in  the  couter. 

75.— SAVOET  JELLY. 

Take  half  a  pig-'s  head,  boil  it  for  one 
hour,  then  cut  the  meat  into  small  pieces, 
put  it  again  into  the  saucepan  with  half 
the  liquor  it  was  boiled  in,  add  a  little 
seasoning  of  pepper,  salt,  and  mace,  boil 
another  hour ;  turn  it  into  a  mould  to 
get  cold.  The  above  is  excellent  made 
from  calf's  head,  which  in  many  country- 
places  can  be  bought  for  a  trifle ;  but  the 
mould  should  then  be  'lined  with  hard 
boiled  eggs,  cut  into  slices,  and  a  little 
parsley  added  to  the  seasoning.  This  is 
.  an  economical  Breakfast  or  supper  dish. 

76— PAETEIDGE  SOUP. 

When  you  have  a  brace  of  partridges 
which  prove  to  be  remarkably  old.  con- 
vert them  into  soup.  Skin  and  cut  them 


up,  cut  a  handsome  slice  of  ham  as  lean 
as  possible  and  divide  it  in  four,  or  cut  as 
many  thin  slices,  put  them  in  the  pan, 
add  the  partridges  with  an  oniori  sliced, 
some  celery,  and  four  ounces  of  butter  ; 
brown  nicely  without  burning,  put  them 
into  the  stewpan  with  one  quart  and  a 
pint  of  water,  throw  in  a  few  white  pep- 
pers whole,  a  shank  of  mutton,  salt  it  to 
palate,  strain,  add  stewed  celery,  fried 
bread,  and  previous  to  its  boiling  skim 
very  clean  and  serve  up. 

77.— VEGETABLE  SOUPS. 

Although  many  of  the  following  soups 
are  made  purely  of  vegetables,  yet  some 
— and  those  generally  the  best— are 
made  on  a  foundation  of  some  sort  of 
meat-broth  in  which  the  roots  are  stewed. 

The  broth  is  therefore  the  real  stock 
on  which  these  soaps  are  made,  though 
each  bears  the  name  of  the  vegetable 
which  gives  it  flavor ;  but  when  made 
solely  from  herbs,  roots,  and  vegetables, 
and  used  as  the  basis. for  the  formation  of 
soupes-maigresj*  the  stock  is  then  com- 
posed of  every  sort  in  season  which  can, 
by  long  stewing,  be  reduced  to  a  pulp, 
in  which  every  species  of  savory  herbs — 
such  as  chervil,  tarragon,  and  marjoram 
— are  mixed,  together  with  a  few  chilis, 
shalots,  and  a  head  of  garlic,  seasoned 
with  mace,  whole  peppers,  salt,  and 
mushroom  ketchup;  to  which  may  be 
added  a  little  curry-powder.  The  pulp 
is  then  strained ;  and,  being  thus  rather 
highly  seasoned,  inay  be  kept  for  a  few 
days,  and  used  in  aid  of  any  other  soup. 
It  must  be  left  to  simmer  during  several 
hours;  and  should  it  need  browning, 
some  sliced  onions,  fried  in  butter,  will 
be  all  that  is  necessary. 

Thus  all  the  roots  and  most  of  such 
vegetables  as  can  be  easily  made  into 
purees,  and  combined  with  any  sort  of 
broth,  will,  in  this  manner,  make  excel- 
lent soup  of  different  denominations, 


180 


THE    PRACTICAL    HOUSEKEEPER. 


though  all  founded  upon  the  same  meat- 
stock.  The  gravy  of  beef  is  always  pre- 
ferred for  savory  soups,  and  that  of  veal 
or  fowls  for  the  more  delicate  white 
soups:  to  which  from  half  a  pint  to  a 
pint  of  cream,  or,  if  that  cannot  be  had, 
the  same  quantity  of  milk  and  the  yolks 
of  a  couple  of  raw  eggs  should  be  added 
for  every  two  quarts  of  soup ;  remember- 
ing, however,  that  the  latter  will  not  im- 
part the  richness  of  cream. 

Collect  whatever  vegetables  are  in 
season,  take  equal  quantities,  turnips, 
carrots-,  cabbage,  spinach,  celery,  parsley, 
onions,  a  little  mint,  &c.,  add  plenty  of 
herbs,  cut  them  fine,  put  them  into  the 
stewpan,  in  which  has  previously  been 
placed  some  oil ;  stew  gently  until  the 
vegetables  become  tender,  then  add  two 
quarts  of  boiling  water  j  stew  a  quarter 
of  an  hour  and  serve. 

Some  cooks  advocate  the  introduction 
of  peas,  green  or  white,  to  this  soup: 
where  they  are  used,  they  must  be  boil- 
ed until  tender  hi  very  little  water,  then 
mashed  into  a  very  loose  paste;  the 
vegetables  having  been  scalded  are  then 
added,  and  two  nours  will  suffice  for 
stewing ;  season  it  with  salt  an J  pepper. 

Be  careful  that  it  does  not  burn  while 
cooking,  or  the  whole  is  spoiled. 

78.-TOMATO  SOUP. 

Stew  half  a  ^eck  of  tomatoes  slowly 
an  hour  and  a  half  in  a  pint  of  water ; 
pass  them  through  a  tamis ;  add  half 
a  gallon  of  veal  or  mutton  broth.  Pass 
through  a  tamis  enough  stale  bread 
to  thicken  the  soup.  Fry  twelve  onions 
brown,  and  strain  them  the  same  way. 
Add  them  to  the  soup  with  a  bunch  of 
fine  herbs,  and  seasoning  to  taste.  Boil 
up  well,  and  serve. 

79.-BEAN  SOUP. 

Soak  two  quarts  of  dried  white  beans 
all  night  and  put  on  the  soup  early.  To 


five  pounds  of  beef  allow  one  of  bacon 
cut  small.  Boil  and  skim  it  and  put 
in  the  beans,  drained,  and  a  head  of  celery 
cut  small.  Boil  slowly  till  the  beans  are 
melted  and  the  soup  is  done ;  strain  it, 
and  serve  with  toasted  bread. 

80.— ASPARAGUS  SOUP  WITH  GREEN 
PEAS. 

Make  a  soup  of  roots,  and  when  strain- 
ed, boil  a  pint  of  green  peas  in  the  liquor. 
Choose  some  middling-sized  asparagus, 
cut  them  in  pieces  about  three  inches 
long,  blanch  them  in  boiling  water,  and 
then  throw  them  into  cold  water ;  drain 
them  and  tie  them  in  small  bunches,  split 
the  tops  and  boil  them  with  the  peas. 
When  done  make  a  puree  of  them  and 
mix  it  with  the  root  soup,  and  garnish 
with  the  asparagus.  Good  meat-broth 
may  be  used  instead  of  the  root  soup. 

81.— SOUP  DE  L'ASPEKGE. 
Cut  into  thin  slices  half  a  pound  of 
bacon,  lay  them  in  the  bottom  of  the 
stewpan,  cut  into  lumps  six  pounds  of 
lean  beef  and  roll  it  well  in  flour,  cover 
the  pan  close,  shake  occasionally  until 
the  gravy  is  all  drawn,  then  add  half  a 
pint  of  old  ale  and  two  quarts  of  water ; 
throw  in  some  whole  peppers  and  a 
spoonful  of  salt,  stew  gently  for  an  hour, 
skim  the  fat.  and  when  an  hour  has 
elapsed  strain  off  the  soup,  then  put  in  it 
some  spinach,  two  cabbage  lettuces,  the 
leaves  of  white  beet,  a  little  mint,  pow- 
dered sweet  aroma  and  sorrel,  boil  them, 
then  put  in  the  tops  of  asparagus  cut 
small ;  when  they  are  tender  the  soup  is 
done ;  serve  up  hot  with  a  French  roll  hi 
the  middle. 

82.— POTAGE  A  LA  JULIENNE— (Julien  Soup.) 
Take  some  carrots  and  turnips,  and 
turn  them  ribbon  like,  a  few  heads  of  celery, 
some  leeks  and  onions,  and  cut  them  all 
into  fillets,  thus  .  Then  take 


VEGETABLE   SOUPS. 


181 


about  two  ounces  of  butter  and  lay  it  at 
the  bottom  of  the  stewpan,  with  the  roots 
over  the  butter.  Fry  them  on  a  slow 
fire,  and  keep  stirring  gently ;  moisten 
them  with  broth  and  gravy  of  veal,  and 
let  them  boil  on  the  corner  of  the  stove ; 
skim  all  the  fat  off,  and  put  in  a  little 
sugar  to  take  off  the  bitter  taste  of  the 
vegetables :  you  may  in  summer-time  add 
green  peas,  asparagus-tops,  French  beans, 
some  lettuce,  or  sorrel.  In  winter-time, 
the  taste  of  the  vegetables  being  too 
strong,  you  must  blanch  them,  and  im- 
mediately after  stew  them  in  the  broth  : 
if  they  were  fried  in  butter  "their  taste 
would  also  be  too  strong.  Add  bread, 
as  above,  in  the  tureen. 

83.— THE    JULIENNE    WITH    CONSOMME— 
(or  Broth  of  Fowl.) 

The  same  as  above,  only  you  moisten 
it  with  consomm  of  fowl,  and  put  in 
the  back  of  a  roasted  chicken,  from  the 
preceding  day,  which  stew  with  the 
roots ;  when  boiled  for  one  hour,  take  it 
out  of  the  broth,  and  send  up  with  the 
bread,  as  above. 

84.— JULIENNE,  OE  VEGETABLE  BKOTH. 

Cut  various  kinds  of  vegetables  in 
pieces,  celery,  carrots,  turnips,  onions,  &c., 
and  having  put  two  ounces  of  butter  in  the 
bottom  of  a  stewpan,  put  the  vegetables 
on  the  top  of  the  butter,  together  with 
any  others  that  may  be  in  season  ;  stew  or 
fry  them  over  a  slow  fire,  keeping  them 
stirred,  and  adding  a  little  of  the  stock 
occasionally  ;  soak  small  pieces  of  crust 
of  bread  in  the  remainder  of  the  broth 
or  stock,  and  when  the  vegetables  are 
nearly  stewed,  add  them,  and  warm  the 
whole  up  together 

85-SOYEE'S  JULIENNE  SOUP. 
This  soup  is  entirely  the  hereditary 
property  of  France,  and  is  supposed  to  be 
so  called  from  the  months  of  June  and 
12 


July,  when  all  vegetables  are  in  full 
'eason;  and  to  make  it  in  reality  as 
originally  made,  a  small  quantity  of 
every  description  of  vegetables  should 
)e  used,  including  lettuce,  sorrel,  and 
tarragon;  however,  some  few  sorts  of 
vegetables,  mixed  together,  make  a  most 
estimable  soup.  Weigh  half  a  pound  of 
;he  vegetables  in  fair  proportions  to  each 
other,  that  is.  carrots,  turnips,  onions, 
celery,  and  leeks,  which  cut  into  small 
fillets  an  inch  in  length,  and  of  the  thick- 
ness of  a  trussing-needle  j  when  done, 
wash  dry,  and  pass  them  in  butter  and 
ugar  as  before,  add  two  quarts  of  clear 
soup,  adding,  just  before  it  is  done,  a 
little  sorrel,  cabbage-lettuce,  and  chervil 
or  peas,  if  handy,  but  it  will  be  excellent 
without  either. 


86.— A  SPRING  SOUP. 
The  following  is  recommended  for  puri- 
fying the  blood,  and  consequently  clear- 
ing the  complexion : — Take  a  handful  of 
fresh  sorrel  and  a  handful  of  water-cress- 
es ;  cut  them  up  fine,  but  do  not  chop 
them  ;  put  them  into  about  two  quarts 
of  boiling  water,  adding  a  carrot  cut  up 
in  small  pieces,  three  or  four  potatoes, 
cut  in  quarters,  two  slices  of  bread  (if 
of  a  sixpenny  loaf),  also  cut  up;  pepper 
and  salt  to  taste.  Boil  well  till  the  soup 
assumes  a  consistency,  which  it  will  do 
as  the  vegetables  and  bread  dissolve  in 
it.  Stir  it  frequently,  and  it  will  prove 
a  very  palatable  soup.  With  a  moderate 
fire  it  may  be  prepared  in  about  two 
hours.  The  liquor  from  any  boiled  meat 
may  be  used  instead  of  plain  water. 

87.-MACAEONI,    WITH    CONSOMM6,    OE 
STOCK-BROTH. 

Take  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  Naples 
macaroni,  and  boil  it  in»  water,  till  it  is 
nearly  done.  Strain  well,  and  put  it 
into  a  rich  consomme  to  boil.  Let  it  be 


182 


THE    PRACTICAL    HOUSEKEEPER. 


well  done ;  grate  some  Parmesan  cheese, 
which  send  up  separately  in  a  plate. 

88.-CABBAGE  SOUP. 

Take  four  or  six  pounds  of  beef,  boil 
with  it  some  black  pepper  whole  for 
three  hours,  cut  three  or  four  cabbages 
in  quarters,  boil  them  until  they  are 
quite  tender,  turn  them  into  a  dish,  and 
serve  all  together. 

89.-MACAEONI   SOUP. 

Take  a  quart  of  gravy  soup:  break 
two  ounces  of  Naples  macaroni  into 
pieces  of  little  more  than  an  inch  long, 
putting  them,  by  degrees,  into  a  small 
portion  of  the  boiling  soup,  to  prevent 
them  from  sticking  together,  and  let 
them  boil  until  quite  tender,  but  not  soft 
or  pulpy — from  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes 
if  quite  fresh,  but  nearly  half  an  hour  if 
at  all  stale.  Vermicelli  is  used  in  the 
same  manner.  They  will  improve  the 
consistence  of  the  soup  if  the  quantity 
above  stated  be  added :  but  it  is  useless 
and  does  not  look  well  to  see,  as  at  some 
tables,  only  a  few  strings  of  it  floating 
in  the  tureen.  The  flavor  will  also  be 
much  improved  if  a  small  quantity  of 
Parmesan  cheese  be  either  melted  in  it, 
or  grated  and  served  up  separately. 

90.— SOUP  1  LA  CKECI,  OE  CAEEOT  SOUP. 
Cut  half  a  pound  of  lean  ham  in  dice, 
three  onions,  four  turnips,  twelve  carrots, 
the  outer  side  red  only,  a  head  of  celery,  a 
fagot  of  sweet  herbs,  two  blades  of  mace, 
six  cloves,  a  bay-lea^  and  half  a  pound  of 
salt  butter ;  fry  all  well  down  in  a  stew- 
pan  until  they  get  a  little  brown,  then 
add  some  second  stock,  and  stew  until 
all  the  roots  are  quite  tender,  then  rub  it 
through  a  tammy  sieve  or  tammy  cloth 
with  two  long  spoons ;  if  very  thick,  add 
more  stock.  Season  with  cayenne  and 
black  pepper,  and  salt,  and  a  good  bit  of 
sugar  j  send  up  on  a  napkin  some  nice 


fried  bread  cut  in  small  dice,  and  not 
greasy. 

91.— GEEEJT  PEA  POEEIDGE. 

(A  most  delicious  potage.) 

Green  peas  three  pints,  milk  three 
pints,  butter  one-quarter  of  a  pound,  flour 
enough  for  thickening. 

Boil  the  peas  in  just  water  enough  to 
cook  them  until  they  are  tender;  then 
pour  in  the  milk ;  when  it  boils,  add  the 
butter  and  flour  rubbed  well  together; 
let  it  boil  long  enough  to  cook  the  flour ; 
season  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  serve 
hot. 

92.— GEEEN  PEA  SOUP. 
Put  two  quarts  of  green  peas  into  a 
stewpan  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
butter,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  lean  ham, 
cut  into  small  dice,  two  onions  in  slices, 
and  a  few  sprigs  of  parsley ;'  add  a  quart 
of  cold  water,  and  with  the  hands  rub  all 
well  together ;  then  pour  off  the  water, 
cover  the  stewpan  close,  and  stand  it  over 
a  sharp  fire,  stirring  the  contents  round 
occasionally  ;  when  very  tender,  add  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  which  mix  well 
in  mashing  the  peas  with  your  spoon 
against  the  sides  of  the  stewpan ;  add 
two  quarts  of  stock,  or  broth  from  the 
Pot-au-feu,  a  table-spoonful  of  sugar,  and 
a  little  pepper  and  salt,  if  required ;  boil 
all  well  together  five  minutes,  when  rub 
it  through  a  tammy  or  hair  sieve ;  then 
put  it  into  another  stewpan,  with  a  pint 
of  boiling  milk ;  boil  five  minutes,  skim 
well,  and  pour  it  into  your  tureen.  It 
must  not  be  too  thick  j  serve  with  crou-* 
tons  of  bread. 

93.— WINTEB  PEA  SOUP. 

Wash  a  quart  of  split  peas,  which  put 

into  a  stewpan  with  half  a  pound  of 

streaked  bacon,  two  onions  in  slices,  two 

pounds  of  veal  or  beef,  cut  into  small 


VEGETABLE    SOUPS. 


183 


pieces,  and  a  little  parsley,  thyme,  and 
bay-leaf;  add  a  gallon  of  water,  with  a 
little  salt  and  sugar ;  place  it  upon  the 
fire,  and  when  boiling,  stand  it  at  the  side 
until  the  peas  are  boiled  to  a  puree,  and 
the  water  has  reduced  to  half;  then  take 
out  the  meat,  which  put  upon  a  dish,  to 
be  eaten  with  the  bacon,  keeping  it  hot ; 
rub  the  soup  through  a  hair  sieve  or  tam- 
my, $ut  it  into  another  stewpan,  and 
when  boiling,  serve.  The  meat  may  also 
be  served  in  the  tureen  if  approved  of. 
Maigre  pea  soup  may  also  be  made  by 
omitting  the  meat,  adding  half  a  pound 
of  butter,  one  quart  of  milk,  and  omitting 
a  quart  of  water. 

94.- LEEK,  OR  ONION   SOUP. 

The  liquor  in  which  a  leg  of  mutton 
has  been  boiled  will  do  very  well  for  this 
broth.  Mix  a  spoonful  or  two  of  oat- 
meal, according  to  the  quantity  of  broth, 
in  cold  water,  very  smooth,  the  same  as 
if  for  grjiel ;  add  a  little  of  the  broth,  by 
degrees,  until  the  whole  is  incorporated ; 
then  boil  the  liquor  with  any  quantity  of 
leeks  or  onions — both  or  either — until  it 
becomes  of  the  consistence  of  cream.  Or? 
omit  the  oatmeal,  and  substitute  flour, 
stirring  the  soup  very  hard  for  five  min- 
utes ;  and  when  „  you  are  about  taking  it 
from  the  fire,  stir  in  the  yolks  of  two  raw 
eggs  beat  up  with  a  little  more  broth, 
and  serve  it  immediately. 

Onions,  peeled,  pared,  and  cut  into 
pieces,  then  shred  into  a  pan  and  fried  in 
either  oil  or  butter,  without  any  broth 
but  simply  having  boiling  water  poured 
over  them,  and  some  toasted  bread,  sea- 
soned merely  with  pepper  and  salt,  are 
considered  very  refreshing  when  thus 
made  into  a  soup,  and  much  used  by 
ladies  throughout  Europe  after  the  fa- 
tigues of  a  ball. 

95.— POTATO  SOUP  MAIGEE. 

Take  some  large  mealy  potatoes ;  pee! 


and  cut  them  into  small  slices  with  an 
onion ;  boil  them  in  three  pints  of  water 
till  tender,  and  then  pulp  them  through  a 
colander ;  add  a  small  piece  of  butter,  a 
ittle  cayenne  pepper  and  salt,  and,  just  be- 
bre  the  soup  is  served,  two  spoonfuls  of 
good  cream.  The  soup  must  not  be  al- 
owed  to  boil  after  the  cream,  has  been 
put  into  it. 

96.— TOMATO  SOUP. 

Wash,  scrape,  and  cut  small  the  red 
part  of  three  large  carrots,  three  heads  of 
celery,  four  large  onions,  and  two  large 
turnips ;  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with 
a  table-spoonful  of  butter,  and  half  a 
pound  of  lean  new  ham ;  let  them  stew 
very  gently  for  an  hour,  then  add  'three 
quarts  of  brown  gravy  soup,  and  some 
whole  black  pepper,  with  eight  or  ten 
ripe  tomatoes ;  let  it  boil  an  hour  and  a 
half,  and  pulp  it  through  a  sieve ;  serve 
it  with  fried  bread  cut  hi  dice. 

97.-SOUP  SOEEEL— A  SUMMEE  SOUP. 

Take  a  good  quantity  of  sorrel  and  mix 
with  it  the  top  leaves  of  beet-root ;  boil 
them  thoroughly;  press  them  enough  to 
extract  all  the  water,  and  chop  them  un- 
til they  are  almost  a  paste ;  when  they 
are  quite  cold,  add  the  coldest  spring  wa- 
ter attainable,  and  mix  until  rather  thick- 
er than  cream ;  cut  in  thin  slices  two 
cucumbers  steeped  in  a  mixture  of  vine- 
gar and  a  little  cayenne ;  boil  three  eggs 
hard,  and  cut  them  in  very  small  pieces ; 
now,  having  chopped  the  green  ends  of 
young  onions  small,  and  added  to  the 
paste,  pour  over  cream  to  your  taste,  and 
then  add  the  sliced  cucumber  and  boiled 
egg ;  serve  up  garnished  with  clean  pieces 
of  ice. 

98.— TOMATO  SOUP. 

Slice  two  onions  and  fry  them  in  but- 
ter until  brown;  remove  them  and  fry 
two  dozen  tomatoes  just  sufficient  to  heat 


184 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


them  through,  then  put  them  into  a  stew- 
pan  with  their  gravy  and  the  onions,  add 
a  head  of  celery  and  a  carrot  sliced  ;  ste\jr 
gently  for  half  an  hour,  add  three  pints 
of  grayy,  stew  an  hour  and  a  half,  pulp 
the  whole  of  the  vegetables  through  a 
sieve,  season  with  white  pepper,  salt,  and 
cayenne,  serve  with  sippets  of  toasted 
bread  cut  in  shapes. 

99.— PEPPEB  POT.  (English.) 
Put  in  a  stewpan  three  quarts  of  wa- 
ter ;  to  this  add  celery,  turnips,  carrots, 
lettuces,  cut  small;  add  the  bones  of 
cold  roast  meat  of  any  description ;  half 
a  pound  of  bacon,  the  same  weight  of 
salted  pork ;  stew  gently  until  the  meat 
is  tender,  taking  care  to  skim  when  it 
first  boils. 

Boil  half  a  peck  of  spinach  and  rub  it 
through  a  colander ;  take  the  bones  out 
of  the  soup  and  add  the  spinach ;  with  it 
the  meat  of  a  lobster  or  crab  minced ; 
season  with  plenty  of  cayenne  pepper, 
and  salt  to  taste. 

Suet  dumplings  may  be  boiled  with  it, 
or  a  fowl,  but  this  is  matter  of  taste. 
Mutton  or  beef  may  be  substituted  for 
bacon  or  pork ;  this  will  be  obvious  when 
it  is  understood  that  a  pepper  pot  is  pre- 
sumed to  consist  of  an  equal  proportion 
of  flesh,  fish,  fowl  and  vegetables. 

100.— PUEEE  OE  TUENIP  SOUP. 
Get  a  bunch  of  turnips,  pare  them  and 
cut  them  in  thin  slices  ;  one  head  of  white 
celery,  one  onion ;  fill  up  your  stewpan 
with  good  second  white  stock,  boil  them 
until  quite  tender,  then  pass  it  all  through 
a  tammy  by  rubbing  it  with  wooden 
spoons,  or  a  tammy  sieve ;  season  with 
sugar,  cayenne  and  salt.  Send  up  fried 
bread,  as  for  former  soups ;  add  half  a 
pint  of  cream  the  last  thing. 

101.-SAUT3  SOUP. 
Cut  carrots,  and  turnips,  and  onions 


and  celery,  as  straws,  about  one  inch 
long,  quite  thin;  the  carrots  you  will 
trim,  using  only  the  red  part,  the  yellow 
that  is  left  use  for  your  stock  pot ;  cut 
your  onions  in  quarters,  then  cut  them 
the  size  endways,  blanch  them  for  two 
or  three  minutes,  strain  them  on  the  back 
of  a  hair  sieve  to  drain  ;  then  add  them 
to  the  quantity  of  soup  required,  allowing 
half  a  pint  to  each  person  ;  therefore,  as 
you  must  reduce  it  to  have  the  flavor 
of  your  vegetables,  allow  a  pint  more,  re- 
ducing it  to  the  quantity  you  require; 
season  it  with  lump  sugar,  cayenne  pep- 
per and  salt ;  be  sure  and  not  go  to  the 
extreme. 

102.— SPEING  SOUP. 

As  saute  ;  the  same  roots  cut  different- 
ly, and  add,  if  to  be  had,  spinach,  cab- 
bage-lettuce, a  very  little  sorrel,  as  it 
turns  acid  on  the  stomach,  all  cut  rather 
small,  tarragon,  chervil,  green  asparagus, 
young  peas,  cucumbers  ;  cut  the  asparagus 
about  one  inch  long,  cut  the  tarrHgon  and 
chervil  a  little,  and  a  few  French  beans 
cut ;  use  your  consomme  stock  as  before, 
boiling  all  your  green  parts  particularly 
green  in  water  a  few  minutes,  leaving 
them  to  be  sufficiently  done  in  your 
stock ;  if  you  have  a  cauliflower  boiled, 
pick  a  few  small  pieces  and  put  in  the 
soup-tureen ;  the  boiling  soup  when  pour- 
ed in  will  make  it  hot ;  season  as  before. 

103.— WINTEB  VEGETABLE  SOUPS. 

Take  carrots,  turnips,  and  the  heart  of 
a  head  of  celery,  cut  into  dice,  with  a 
dozen  button  onions  ;  half  boil  them  in 
salt  and  water,  with  a  little  sugar  in  it ; 
then  throw  them  into  the  broth ;  and, 
when  tender,  serve  up  the  soup :  or  use 
rice,  dried  peas  and  lentils,  and  pulp 
them  into  the  soup  to  thicken  it. 

With  many  of  these  soups,  small  suet 
dumplings,  very  lightly  made,  and  not 
larger  than  an  egg,  are  boiled  either  in 
broth  or  water,  and  put  into  the  tureen 


FISH   SOUPS. 


185 


lust  before  serving,  and  are  by  most  per- 
sons thought  an  improvement,  but  are 
more  usually  put  into  plain  gravy-soup 
than  any  other,  and  should  be  made  light 
enough  to  swim  in  it. 

Such  are  the  chief  soups  made  of  veg- 
etables on  a  foundation  of  meat;  both 
those  made  solely  of  vegetables,  without 
any  intermixture  of  meat  broth,  may  be 
made  into  very  palatable  soups  by  using 
the  vegetable  stock. 

HSH  SOUPS. 

Notwithstanding  the  quantity  of  ex- 
cellent fish,  this  nutritious  and  economi- 
cal viand  is  not  often  introduced  at  table 
in  the  form  of  soup.  Nothing  could  be 
more  easy  than  to  multiply  receipts  for 
an  almost  endless  variety:  those  that 
follow  will,  however,  show  how  much 
may  be  done  with  many  kinds  of  fish 
which  are  not  in  very  high  estimation. 

"When  not  wanted  as  soupe-maigre,  the 
foundation,  or  stock,  though  called  "  fish- 
soup,"  is  always  better  if  made  of  meat, 
and  veal  is  generally  preferred.  We. 
therefore,  here  add  a  receipt  for  its  com- 
position, as  it  may  be  applied  to  any  kind 
of  fish ;  though,  in  those  which  we  shall 
hereafter  specify,  it  is  not  mentioned,  as 
they  are  all  intended  to  be  maigre. 

104— STOCK  FOB  FISH  SOUP. 
Take  a  dozen  flounders,  or  any  small 
flat  fish,  and  the  same  number  of  perch ; 
gut  and  clean  them  carefully ;  put  them 
into  a  stewpan  with  two  quarts  of  strong 
veal-broth ;  add  a  few  slices  of  lean  ham, 
two  or  three  carrots,  celery,  and  onions 
cut  in  slices,  some  sweet  herbs  and  salt, 
with  a  little  cayenne  ;  stew  till  the  fish 
will  pass  through  a  coarse  sieve ;  then 
return  it  into  the  stewpan,  with  a  good 
lump  of  butter  and  some  flour  to  thicken 
it ;  add  a  couple  of  large  glasses  of  white 
wine,  and  a  large  spoonful  of  garlic  vine- 
gar. The  gravy  from  potted  herrings, 


anchovies,  or  a  little  Oude  sauce,  will 
also  improve  the  flavor. 

This  stock,  if  once  reboiled.  will,  in 
cold  weather,  keep  well  for  a  month  ;  or. 
if  served  as  soup,  the  quantity  may  of 
course  be  reduced  according  to  the  num- 
ber of  the  party  intended  to  partake  of 
it,  and  it  will  be  found  excellent.  In- 
deed, tiny  species  of  fish  may  be  made 
into  soup  in  the  same  manner.  If  meant 
to  be  browned,  the  onions  should  be  fried, 
and  a  good  spoonful  of  mushroom  ketch- 
up or  India  soy  be  added  ;  and  red  wine 
will  be  better  than  either  sherry  or  Ma- 
deira. But  if  left  white,  cream  should 
be  substituted  for  ketchup  and  soy;  a 
glassful  of  ginger  wine  will  answer  the 
purpose  of  red  wine. 

105.— LOBSTER  SOUP. 
If  prepared  fish-stock  be  not  used,  the 
stock  of  this  soup  may  be  made  of  any 
fish  not  of  sufficient  consequence  to  be 
dressed  in  any  other  way.  Clean  and 
cut  them  in  pieces,  take  the  meat  out  of 
one  or  two  lobsters,  cut  it  into  small 
pieces,  and  lay  it  aside ;  break  the  shell 
and  add  it  to  the  fish  for  the  stock, 
which  should  be  boiled  gently  for  several 
hours;  take  the  coral  of  the  lobster, 
pound  it  in  a  mortar,  with  a  small  piece 
of  the  stock,  partly  pounded,  and  make 
it  up  into  forcemeat-balls,  with  a  little 
chopped  parsley,  bread-crumbs,  and  an 
egg.  When  the  stock  is  sufficiently 
done,  strain  it,  thicken  it  with  butter  and 
flour,  or  cream :  warm  the  lobster  in  it, 
and  send  it  up,  cut  small,  with  the  force- 
meat-balls. Season  it  also  delicately, 
but  yet  sufficiently  to  give  it  flavor, 
which  can  be  imparted  by  any  of  the 
compound  sauces  so  commonly  adver- 
tised. 

106.— LOBSTER  SOUP. 
To  one  large  hen  lobster  scalded  and 
cleaned,  take  two  quarts  of  strong  calf  s 


186 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


feet  broth ;  pound  the  shells,  small  claws, 
eggs,  fat  and  coral  in  a  mortar,  and  sim- 
mer three  hours  in  the  soup.  Cut  the 
tails  into  square  pieces,  and  fry  them 
brown.  Make  the  claws  into  forcemeat* 
balls  with  the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  grated 
lemon-peel,  parsley,  thyme,  a  very  little 
olives,  and  grated  biscuit,  and  fry  them 
brown.  Boil  them  up  in  the  soup  quick- 
ly in  five  minutes  ;  add  half  a  pint  of 
port  wine,  and  lemon  to  taste ;  with  salt, 
pepper,  and  a  little  mace.  (This  is  the 
best  soup  on  record.) 

107.— LOBSTEE  SOUP.  (English.) 
Extract  the  meat  from  the  shells  of 
four  hen  lobsters,  which  have  been  boil- 
ed :  put  the  spawn  aside,  beat  the  fins 
and  small  claws  in  a  mortar ;  then  place 
both  in  a  saucepan,  with  two  quarts  of 
water,  until  the  whole  goodness  of  the 
fish  has  been  drawn;  then  strain  the 
liquor.  Beat  in  a  mortar  the  spawn,  a 
lump  of.flour  and  butter ;  rub  it  through 
a  sieve  into  the  soup  previously  strained ; 
simmer  without  boiling,  that  the  color 
may  be  preserved,  ten  minutes  ;  squeeze 
in  a  piece  of  a  lemon,  with  a  little  of 
the  essence  of  anchovies. 

When  this  dish  is  sent  to  table  as  a 
feature,  forcemeat-balls  are  served  with 
it;  they  are  made  of  minced  lobster, 
spawn,  crumb  of  French  roll,  egg,  and 
mace  pounded ;  roll  it  in  flour,  and  serve 
in  the  soup. 

108.— PUREE  OF  LOBSTER  SOUP. 
Get  two  large  hen  lobsters,  take  out 
all  the  meat,  chop  and  pound  it  fine,  six 
anchovies  boned,  put  the  shells  in  some 
second  stock  to  boil  for  some  time,  strain 
off  the  liquor  into  your  pounded  lob- 
sters, boil  all  until  tender,  rub  all  through 
a  tammy,  add  one  pint  of  cream ;  season 
with  cayenne  pepper,  a  little  sugar,  and 
salt,  and  lemon-juice. 

109.— CLAM  SOUP. 
To   the  liquor  of  fifty  clams,  allow 


three  quarts  of  water,  and  put  it  on 
with  a  knuckle  of  veal,  the  bone  chop- 
ped. Simmer  three  hours,  put  in  a 
bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  nutmeg,  mace,  a 
table-spoonful  of  whole  pepper,  and  stew 
an  hour  longer.  Then  strain  and  add 
four  ounces  of  butter  rubbed  in  flour,  and 
the  clams  chopped  in  pieces.  Boil  a 
quarter  of  an  hour  and  serve. 

110.— OTSTEK  SOUP. 

Beard  four  dozen  oysters,  preserve  the 
liquor  hi  opening  them,  which  must  be 
placed  with  the  beards  of  the  oysters  in 
a  stewpan ;  slice  any  fish,  small  fresh- 
water fish  will  serve  excellently  well, 
and  adding  them,  stew  for  five  or  six 
hours;  strain  and  thicken  it,  add  two 
spoonfuls  of  soy  or  any  fish  sauce,  or 
omit  it,  to  taste.  Add  the  oysters,  and 
when  they  are  warm  through,  serve* 

ill.— OYSTER  SOUP. 

Get  four  flounders,  or  similar  portions 
of  any  fish,  four  dozen  of  large  oysters, 
blanch  them  slightly,  take  off  the  beards 
and  gristle,  put  the  beards  and  fish  into 
some  of  your  best  white  stock,  boil  all 
together  for  several  hours,  add  four  an- 
chovies washed,  strain  all  off  and  thicken 
it  with  flour  and  butter,  add  one  pint  of 
cream,  put  in  your  oysters  you  had  tak- 
en care  of,  the  last  thing,  just  boiling 
them  up  in  the  soup ;  having  passed  it 
through  a  tammy,  season  it  with  cayenne 
pepper,  salt,  and  a  small  piece  of  sugar. 

112.— OYSTER  SOUP. 

Take  fifty  oysters,  tyancji  them,  but 
do  not  let  them  boil;  strain  them 
through  a  sieve,  and  save  the  liquor. 
Put  one-quarter  pound  of  butter  into 
a  stewpan;  when  it  is  melted,  add  six 
ounces  of  flour  ;  stir  it  over  the  fire  for 
a  few  minutes ;  add  the  liquor  from  the 
oysters,  two  quarts  of  veal  stock,  one 
quart  of  new  milk;  season  with  salt, 
peppercorns,  a  little  cayenne  pepper,  a 
blade  of  mace,  Harvey  sauce  and  essence 


FISH   SOUPS. 


187 


of  anchovies,  a  tablespoonful  each ;  strain 
it  through  a  tammy ;  let  it  boil  ten  min- 
utes ;  put  the  oysters  into  the  tureen 
with  a  gill  of  cream,  and  pour  the  boil- 
ing soup  upon  them. 

118.-EEL  SOUP. 

Take  any  number  of  pounds  of  eels, 
according  to  the  quantity  required ;  add 
two-thirds  water.  If  about  three  or  four 
pounds  of  eels,  add  one  onion,  a  small 
quantity  of  mace,  a  little  pepper  whole, 
sweet  herbs,  a  crust  of  the  top  side  of 
bread ;  cover  down  close ;  stew  till  'the 
fish  separates,  strain.  Toast  slices  of 
bread  deep  brown,  but  not  to  burn ;  cut 
into  triangular  pieces  or  squares,  a  piece 
of  carrot  two  inches  long,  cut  into  four 
slices  lengthwise,  put  into  a  tureen  with 
the  toast,  pour  the  soup  on;  boiling 
cream  may  be  added  thickened  with  a 
little  flour,  but  it  should  be  rich  enough 
without  it. 

114.— NEW  ENGLAND  CHOWDEB. 
Have  a  good  haddock,  cod,  or  any  other 
solid  fish,  cut  it  in  pieces  three  inches 
square,  put  a  pound  of  fat  salt  pork  in 
strips  into  the  pot.  set  it  on  hot  coals, 
and  fry  out  the  oil.  Take  out  the  pork, 
and  put  in  a  layer  of  fish,  over  that  a 
layer  of  onions  in  slices,  then  a  layer  of 
fish  with  strips  of  fat  salt  pork,  then 
another  layer  of  onions,  and  so  on  alter- 
nately until  your  fish  is  consumed.  Mix 
some  flour  with  as  much  water  as  will 
fill  the  pot;  season  with  black  pepper 
and  salt  to  your  taste,  and  boil  it  for  hal: 
an  hour.  Have  ready  some  crackers 
soaked  in  water  till  they  are  a  little  soft 
ened;  throw  them* into  your  chowde 
five  minutes  before  you  take  them  up 
Serve  in  a  tureen. 

« 

115.— NEW  ENGLAND  CHOWDEB. 

Cover  the  bottom  of  a  pot  with  slice 

of  boiled  salt  pork,  with  a  little  onions 

on  this  place  a  layer  of  fish  in  larg 


ieces,  season  with  pepper,  and  cover  it 
with  a  layer  of  biscuit  soaked  in  milk, 
md  a  layer  of  sliced  potatoes.  Put  above 

his  another  layer  of  pork,  as  before, 
with  fish,  &c.,  the  biscuit  being  on  the  top 
)f  all.  Pour  In  a  pint  and  a  half  of 
water,  cover,  and  boil  it  slowly  an 
iour ;  then  skim  and  turn  it  into  a  deep 
dish.  Thicken  the  gravy  with  butter 
rolled  in  flour,  and  parsley. 

116  .—CLAM  SOUP. 

Boil  a  knuckle  of  veal  in  as  much 
water  as  will  cover  it  well.  When  it  has 
soiled  about  half  or  a  quarter  of  an  hour, 
open  hah0  a  peck  of  clams  by  placing 
the.m  over  the  fire,  in  a  very  small  quan- 
tity of  water.  Pour  the  juice  of  the  • 
clams  into  the  pot  which  contains  the 
knuckle  of  veal.  Boil  the  soup  three  or 
four  hours,  seasoning  it  with  a  table- 
spoonful  of  pepper.  Add  no  salt,  as  the 
clam  juice  will  have  made  it  salt  enough. 
When  the  veal  is  quite  tender,  cut  up 
the  clams  in  small  pieces  (that  is  to  say, 
each  clam  in  three  or  more  pieces),  and 
throw  them  into  the  soup,  with  a  quar- 
ter of  a  pound  of  butter  chopped  into 
bits.  Some  persons  roll  the  butter  in 
flour,  which  they  think  makes  it  mix 
with  the  clam  juice ;  others  use  no  flour, 
as  they  dislike  to  detect  the  taste  of  the 
flour. 

117.— CLAM  SOUP, 
(Prepared  by  a  Dublin  Lady.) 
Put  forty  or  fifty  clams,  in  the  shells, 
with  as  little  water  as  possible.  When 
the  liquor  has  run  out  from  the  opened 
shells,  take  the  clams  out  and  chop  them 
fine,  with  an  onion,  a  bunch  of  minced 
celery,  and  some  mace  and  pepper.  Put 
all  in  the  soup,  and  thicken  it  with  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  butter  rolled  in  flour, 
and  if  you  choose,  add  a  little  milk. 
Simmer  twenty  minutes;  stir  in  the 
beaten  yolks  of  five  eggs ;  put  bits  of 
toasted  bread  into  the  tureen  and  serve. 


188 


THE   PRACTICAL    HOUSEKEEPER. 


118.— LAKE  AND  POND  FISH  SOUP. 
For  every  person  take  a  pound  each  of 
any  fresh-water  fish  that  can  be  obtain- 
ed ;  wash  them  in  salt  and  water,  and 
stew  them  with  a  tomato,  carrots,  leeks, 
fried  onions,  and  sweet  herbs,  in  as  much 
water  as  will  cover  them ;  and  let  them 
stew  until  the  whole  is  reduced  to  a 
pulp ;  then  strain  the  liquor,  and  boil  it 
for  another  hour  until  it  becomes  quite 
smooth.  Then  have  ready  some  roots 
of  any  sort  that  may  be  in  season,  which 
have  been  chopped  small,  and  boiled 
either  in  milk  or  water :  add  them  to  the 
soup,  and  let  it  simmer  for  one-quarter  of 
an  hour ;  season  it,  if  milk  has  been 
used,  with  mace  and  celery,  with  a  little 
cayenne ;  but  if  made  solely  with  water, 
then  use  Chili  vinegar,  soy,  mushroom 
ketchup,  or  any  of  the  savory  sauces. 


FISH. 

Fish  should  be  well  washed,  scaled, 
and  cleaned,  by  .drawing  the  entrails 
through  a  slit  in  the  under  side.  The 
roe  and  liver  should  be  separated,  wash- 
ed, and  cooked  with  the  fish.  The  roe 
proves  the  fish  in  season.  Slimy  fish 
may  be  scalded  in  salt  and  water,  but 
must  be  dried  before  cooking. 

Fresh  fish,  when  boiled,  should  be 
placed  in  cold,  and  shell-fish  in  boiling 
water. 

To  keep  oysters  after  washing  them, 
lay  them  in  a  tub  in  a  cool  cellar,  with 
the  deep  part  of  the  shell  undermost. 
Sprinkle  them  with  salt  and  Indian  meal, 
then  fill  the  tub  with  cold  water.  Change 
the  water  every  day.  and  the  oysters 
will  keep  fresh  a  fortnight. 

Fish  should  be  garnished  with  horse- 
radish or  parsley.  The  only  vegetable 
served  with  fish  is  potatoes. 

119.— SALT  AND  FBESH- WATER  FISH. 

When  boiling  fish  put  a  little  salt  and 


a  little  vinegar  into  the  water  to  give  the 
fish  firmness.  Be  careful  to  let  fish  be 
well  done,  but  not  to  let  it  break.  When 
very  fresh,  cod  and  whiting  are  very 
much  improved  by  keeping  a  day,  and 
rubbing  a  little  salt  down  the  back-bone. 
Fresh-water  fish  often  have  a  muddy 
smell  and  taste,  which  is  easily  got  rid 
of  by  soaking  it.  After  it  has  been 
thoroughly  cleansed  in  strong  salt  and 
water,  if  the  fish  is  not  too  large,  scald 
it  in  the  same,  then  dry  and  dress  it. 

Fish  that  is  to  be  boiled  must  be  put  on 
the  fire  in  cold  hard  water ;  when  it  boils, 
skim  with  the  greatest  care  ;  throw  in  a 
little  cup  of  cold  water  to  check  the  ex- 
treme of  heat,  then  keep  it  simmering 
only,  lest  the  outside  break  before  the 
thick  and  inner  part  be  done;  but 
"crimped  fish"  should  be  put  into  boil- 
ing water,  and  simmered  a  few  minutes. 

When  it  boils  up,  some  cold  water 
should  be  put  into  it  to  check  it,  and 
keep  it  simmering.  The  cover  should  be 
kept  on  the  kettle  to  prevent  soot  falling 
in  and  discoloring  the  fish.  Fish  should 
be  boiled  with  a  handful  of  salt,  and  half 
a  teacupful  of  vinegar.  All  fish  should 
be  taken  out  of  the  water  the  instant  it 
is  done,  or  it  will  become  woolly.  To  as- 
certain when  it  is  done,  the  fish-plate 
may  be  drawn  up,  and,  if  done,  the  meat 
will  leave  the  bone.  To  keep  it  hot.  and 
to  prevent  it  losing  its  color,  the  fish-plate 
should  be  placed  across  the  fish-kettle,  and 
a  clean  cloth  put  over  the  fish.  If  left  in 
the  water  after  it  is  ready,  fish  loses  its 
firmness.  Serve  fish  on  a  napkin. 

It  is  impossible  to  dress  fish  too  fresh. 
Some  kinds  will  bear  keeping  better  than 
others,  but  none  ar<»  improved  by  it. 

Families  who  purchase  a  whole  salmon, 
and  like  it  quite  fresh,  should  parboil  the 
portion  not  required  for  the  day's  con- 
sumption, and  lay  it  aside  in  the  liquor, 
boiling  up  the  whole  together  when 
wanted.  By  this  means  the  curd  will 
set,  and  the  fish  be  equally  good  on  thf 


FISH. 


189 


following  day.  The  custom  of  serving 
up  rich  sauces,  such  as  lobster,  is  unknown 
in  salmon  countries;  a  little  lemon  peel 
or  white  vinegar  being  quite  sufficient, 
added  to  melted  butter.  Salmon  should 
be  garnished  with  parsley  and  scraped 
horseradish. 

Small  fish  may  be  nicely  fried  plain,  or 
done  with  egg  and  bread  crumbs,  and  then 
fried.  Upon  the  dish  on  which  the  fish 
is  to  be  served  should  be  placed  a  damask 
napkin,  folded,  and  upon  this  put  the 
fish,  with  the  roe  and  liver ;  then  garnish 
the  dish  with  horseradish,  parsley,  and 
lemon. 

To  boil  or  fry  fish  nicely,  after  it  is 
well  washed,  it  should  be  put  in  a  cloth, 
and  when  dry,  wetted  with  egg  and  bread 
crumbs.  It  will  be  much  improved  by 
being  wetted  with  egg  and  crumbs  a 
second  time.  Then  have  your  pan  with 
plenty  of  boiling  dripping  or  lard,  put 
your  fish  into  it,  and  let  it  fry  rather 
quickly  till  it  is  of  a  nice  brown  and  ap- 
pears done.  If  it  is  done  before  being 
nicely  browned,  it  should  be  taken  from  the 
pan,  and  placed  on  a  sieve  before  the  fire 
to  drain  and  brown.  If  wanted  very  nice, 
put  a  sheet  of  cap  paper  to  receive  the 
fish.  Should  you  fry  3  our  fish  in  oil,  it 
obtains  a  much  finer  color  than  when 
done  in  lard  or  dripping.  Never  use 
butter,  as  it  makes  the  fish  a  bad  color 
Garnish  your  dish  with  green  or  fried 
parsley. 

In  broiling  fish,  be  careful  that  you 
gridiron  is  clean  ;  place  it  on  the  fire 
and  when  hot,  rub  it  over  with  suet  t< 
hinder  the  fish  from  sticking.  The  fish 
must  be  floured  and  seasoned  before  broil 
ing.  It  must  be  broiled  over  a  clear  fire 
only,  and  great  care  must  be  taken  tha 
it  does  not  bum  or  become  smoky. 

Broiled  fish  for  breakfast  should  al 

ways  be  skinned,  buttered,  and  pepperec 

Fish  are  broiled,  fried,  boiled,  baked 

stewed,  in  fact  cooked  in  every  imaginabl 


ashion  ;    thdse    named    are    the    chief 
methods.     In  every  kind,  the    greatest 
ttention  and  cleanliness  ^nust  be  exer- 
ised.     A  broken,  disfigured,  or  ill-cook- 
d   dish   of  fish  presented  at  table,   is 
juite  sufficient  to  destroy  the  taste  for 
t  for  ever;  on  the  contrary,  when  neatly 
done  it  heightens  the  relish  which  every 
possesses  more  or  less,  and  imparts 
an  appetite  where  one  may  be  wanting, 
while  the  cook  is  held  hi  grateful  reniein- 
jrance. 

120.— MAKINADE 

Is  commonly  used  in  France  for  the 
purpose  of  boiling  fish,  which  imbibes 
rom  it  a  more  pleasant  flavor  than  it 
naturally  possesses,  and  has  been  so 
generally  adopted  by  professed  cooks 
that  we  here  insert  the  receipt: — Cut 
up  two  carrots,  three  onions,  half  a  dozen 
shalots,  a  single  clove  of  garlic,  and  put 
them  into  a  stewpan  with  a  piece  of  but- 
ter, a  bunch  of  parsley,  and  a  bundle  of 
sweet  herbs;  fry  the  whole  for  a  few 
minutes,  then  add,  very  gradually,  two 
bottles  of  any  light  wine  or  of  cider. 
Put  in  a  handful  of  salt,  two  dozen  of 
peppercorns,  the  same  quantity  of  all- 
spice, and  a  couple  of  cloves.  Simmer 
the  whole  together  for  one  and  a  half 
hours,  strain  the  liquor,  and  put  it  by  for 
use. 

This  marinade,-  if  carefully  strained  af- 
ter the  fish  has  been  taken  out,  will  serve 
several  times  for  the  same  purpose,  add- 
ing a  little  water  each  time.  Fish  dress- 
ed in  it  should  simmer  very  gently,  or 
rather  stew  than  boil,  as  it  affords  to 
mackerel,  fresh  herrings,  perch,  roach, 
and  any  of  the  small  river  fish,  the  ad- 
vantage of  dissolving,  or  so  thoroughly 
softening  their  bones  as  to  render  them 
more  agreeable  in  eating.  For  large  fish, 
they  should  be  cut  into  steaks  before 
being  marinaded.  Instead  of  the  wine 
or  cider,  a  quart  of  table-beer,  a  glass  of 


190 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


BO  j,  one  of  essence  of  anchovies,  and  one 
of  ketchup,  may  be  used ;  or  a  pint  of 
vinegar  and  £hese  sauces,  fennel,  chives, 
thyme,  and  bay-leaves,  may  be  added 
with  the  wine,  cider,  &c.  Or,  choose  a 
kettle  that  will  suit  the  size  of  the  fish, 
into  which  put  two  parts  water,  one  of 
light  (not  sweet)  white  wine,  a  good 
piece  of  butter,  some  stewed  onions  and 
carrots,  pepper,  salt,  two  or  three  cloves, 
and  a  good  bunch  of  sweet  herbs ;  sim- 
mer one-quarter  of  an  hour,  let  it  be- 
come cold,  then  boil  the  fish  therein. 
Serve  with  anchovy-sauce  and  a  squeeze 
of  lemon. 

121.— COD  FISH. 

Fresh  cod  is  good  boiled,  fried,  or 
made  into  a  chowder.  It  is  too  dry  a 
fish  to  broil.  Salt  cod  should  be  soaked 
in  lukewarm  water  till  the  skin  will 
come  off  easily — then  take  up  the  fish, 
scrape  off  the  skin,  and  put  it  in  fresh 
water,  and  set  it  on  a  very  moderate  fire, 
where  it  will  keep  warm  without  boil- 
ing, as  it  hardens  by  boiling.  It  takes 
between  three  and  four  hours  to  cook  it 
soft — serve  it  up  with  drawn  butter. 

122.— TO  BOIL  COD  FISH. 

Crimped  cod  is  preferable  to  the  plain ; 
it  is'  likewise  better  cut  in  slices  than 
cooked  whole ;  to  boil  it  well,  have  the 
water  ready  boiling  with  one  pound  of  salt 
to  every  six  quarts ;  put  in  your  fish,  draw 
your  fish-kettle  to  the  corner  of  the  fire, 
where  let  it  simmer  slowly  from  twenty 
minutes  to  half  an  hour;  when  done, 
the  bone  in  the  centre  will  draw  out 
easily ;  if  boiled  too  much,  it  would  eat 
tough  and  stringy ;  should  the  fish  not 
be  crimped,  add  more  salt  to  the  water, 
it  will  cause  the  fish  to  eat  firmer. 

128.— COD  FISH  WITH  OYSTEE  SAUCE. 

Boil  three  slices  of  the  fish  as  above, 
drain  and  dress  them  upon  a  dish  with- 
out a  napkin,  blanch  three  dozen  oys- 
ters, by  putting  them  into  a  stewpan, 


with  their  juice,  upon  the  fire,  move 
them  round  occasionally,  do  not  let  them 
boil;  as  soon  as  they  become  a  lit- 
tle firm,  place  a,  sieve  over  a  basin, 
pour  in  the  oysters,  beard  them,  put  the 
liquor  again  into  the  stewpan ;  when 
boiling,  add  two  cloves,  half  a  blade  of 
mace,  six  peppercorns,  and  two  ounces  of 
butter,  to  which  you  have  added  a  table- 
spoonful  of  flour,  breaking  it  into  small 
pieces,  stir  well  together,  when  boiling, 
season  with  a  little  salt,  cayenne  pepper, 
and  essence  of  anchovies  ;  finish  with  a 
gill  of  cream  or'  milk,  add  the  oysters, 
and  sauce  over.  The  remains  of  the  fish 
may  be  taken  from  the  bone  and  placed 
upon  a  dish,  with  a  little  of  the  above 
sauce  (to  which  you  have  added  the 
yolks  of  two  eggs),  then  sprinkle  over 
with  bread-crumbs,  and  place  it  twenty 
minutes  in  a  hot  oven  till  the  bread- 
crumbs become  brown. 

124— COD  SOUNDS.— EAGOUT. 

The  sounds  should  not  be  much  soaked, 
but  thoroughly  cleaned.  Simmer  them 
for  a  short  time,  broil  them,  having  first 
floured  them ;  when  they  are  just  tender, 
stew  them  in  white  gravy  which  has 
been  well  seasoned,  add  a  little  cream,  a 
bit  of  butter,  a  spoonful  of  flour,  give  it 

boil,  flavor  with  nutmeg^a  small  piece 
of  lemon-peel,  and  a  dash  of  pounded 
mace;  serve. 

125.-SLICES  OF  COD. 
Three  slices  make  a  small  dish  ;  put 
them  in  a  baking-dish,  cover  them  over 
with  some  go'od  second  stock,  a  little  es- 
sence of  anchovies ;  when  done  thicken 
the  stock,  and  pass  it  through  a  ttlmmy, 
pour  it  over  your  fish,  season  with  cay- 
enne pepper,  and  salt,  and  lemon  juice ; 
if  for  capers  add  them,  if  for  maitre 
d'hotel,  add  cream  and  parsley  chopped 
fine. 

126.— CODFISH  AU  GEATIN. 

This  is  the  best  mode  of  using  the  re 


FISH. 


191 


mains  of  a '  dressed  codfish.  Put  some 
cold  oyster-sauce  at  the  bottom  of  a  pie- 
dish,  then  a  layer  of  the  codfish  (season- 
ed with  pepper,  salt,  and  an  atom  of 
nutmeg),  with  any  of  the  liver  and 
sound  that  remains  ;  then  repeat  the  lay- 
ers of  sauce  and  fish  until  the  dish  is  full ; 
cover  it  with  bread-crumbs,  sprinkle  a 
little  butter  over,  and  bake  for  about 
half  an  hour. 

127.— COD  OMELETTE. 

Break  into  small  pieces  the  thickest 
parts  of  a  dressed  cod,  season  it  with  a 
little  grated  nutmeg  and  a  little  pounded 
mace,  beat  up. six  eggs  well  and  mix  with 
it,  forming  it  into  a  paste,  fry  it  as  an 
omelette,  and  serve  as  hot  as  possible. 

128.— FISH  CAKE. 

Take  the  meat  from  the  bones  of  any 
kind  of  cold  fish,  which  latjer  put  with 
the  head  and  fins  into*  a  stewpan  with  a 
pint  of  water,  a  little  salt,  pepper,  an  on- 
ion, and  a  fagot  of  sweet  herbs  to  stew 
for  gravy.  Mince  the  meat,  and  mix  it 
well  with  crumbs  of  bread  and  cold  po- 
tatoes (equal  parts),  a  little  parsley  and 
seasoning.  Make  into  a  cake,  with  the 
white  of  an  egg,  or  a  little  butter  or 
milk  ;  egg  it  over  and  cover  with  bread- 
crumbs, then  fry  a  little  brown.  Pour 
the  gravy  over,  and  stew  gently  fifteen 
minutes,  stirring  it  carefully  twice  or 
thrice.  Serve  hot,  and  garnish  with 
slices  of  lemon,  or  parsley. 

• 

129.— TO  COOK  SHEEPSHEAD. 

Rub  it  with  salt  and  lemon  before  put- 


Fried  Whiting. 
ting  it  into   the  water.    To  every  six 


quarts  of  water  add  one  pound  of  salt 
Boil  a  twenty  pound  fish  twenty  min- 
utes. Serve  on  a  napkin ;  garnish  with 
parsley,  and  eat  it  with  shrirtp  or  lob- 
ster sauce. 

130.— WHITING  AND  GEATIN. 

Skin  the  whitings,  and  turn  their  tails 
into  their  mouths  ;  put  them  into  a  but- 
tered saut6pan,  with  a  table-spoonful  of 
chopped  onions  and  four  of  brofvn  sauce 
over  each;  sprinkle  over  them  bread- 
crumbs and  butter,  and  bake  in  a  mode- 
rate oven  half  an  hour.  Dress  them  on 
a  dish  without  a  napkin.  Put  twelve 
table-spoonfuls  more  brown  sauce  into 
the  pan.  with  a  tea-spoonful  of  chopped 
mushrooms,  one  of  chopped  parsley,  one 
of  essence  of  anchovy ;  pepper,  salt,  and 
sugar  a  little ;  pour  round  the  dish,  and 
brown  it  with  a  salamander. 

131.— HALIBUT. 

Halibut  should  be  cut  into  slices  of 
four  pounds  each,  and  may  be  baked  or 
fried.  The  skin  on  the  back  must  be 
scored.  When  baked,  use  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  butter  to  keep  it  moist.  If 
boiled,  lay  it  in  the  kettle  on  a  strainer, 
cover  it  with  salted  water ;  boil  it  slowly 
half  or  three-quarters  of  an  hour  and  skim 
it  well.  Garnish  it  with  horseradish, 
serve  it  with  melted  butter.  To  fry  hal- 
ibut, cut  it  in  slices  less  than  an  inch 
thick ;  and  with  this,  as  with  all  other 
fish,  take  care  to  have  plenty  of  butter, 
lard,  or  oil  in  the  pan,  and  that  it  be  hot 
before  the  fish  is  put  in. 

182.— HALIBUT— STEWED. 

Put  into  a  stewpan  half  a  pint  of  fjsh 
broth,  a  table-spoonful  of  vinegar,  and 
one  of  mushroom  ketchup ;  add  an  ancho- 
vy, two  good-sized  onions  cut  in  quarters, 
a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  and  one  clove  of 
garlic ;  add  a  pint  and  a  half  of  water, 
let  it  stew  an  hour  and  a  Quarter,  strain 


192 


THE    PRACTICAL    HOUSEKEEPER. 


it  off  clear,  put  into  it  the  head  and 
shoulders  of  a  fine  halibut  and  stew  un- 
til tender ;  thicken  with  butter  and  flour, 
and  serve* 

133.— TO  COLLOP  HALIBUT. 

Cut  the  fish  into  nice  cutlets  of  about 
an  inch  thick  and  fry  them ;  then  put 
them  into  a  broth  made  of  the  bones, 
four  onions,  a  stick  of  celery,  and  a  bun- 
dle of  sweet  herbs  boiled  together  for 
half  an  hour.  Strain  this  broth,  thicken 
it,  and  stew  the  fish  for  half  an  hour, 
adding  salt,  pepper,  a  grating  of  nutmeg 
and  pounded  mace,  a  spoonful  of  soy  or 
fish-sauce,  and  half  that  quantity  of  lem- 
on juice  with  a  little  shred  lemon  peel. 

134.— HALIBUT  A  LA  CEEME. 

Bub  the  halibut  with  salt  and  lemon ; 
put  it  to  boil  in  a  kettle,  allowing  one 
ounce  of  salt  to  every  six  quarts  of  wa- 
ter ;  simmer  oven,  a  moderate  fire.  A 
halibut  of  eight  pounds  should  simmer 
twenty  minutes  or  more.  When  it  be- 
gins to  crack  slightly,  lift  it  with  a  drain- 
er, and  dish  it  without  a  napkin,  having 
it  first  carefully  drained,  and  absorbing 
the  water  that  runs  from  the  fish  with  a 
napkin.  Put  one  pint  of  cream  on  the 
fire  in  a  stewpan,  and  when  near  simmer- 
ing add  half  a  pound  of  fresh  butter ;  stir 
it  quickly  till  the  butter  is  melted,  but  do 
not  let  the  cream. boil ;  add  three  yolks 
of  eggs,  season  with  salt,  pepper  and  lem- 
on juice  ;  pour  as  much  over  the  halibut 
as  will  cover  it,  and  serve  the  remainder 
in  a  boat.  Or,  if  preferred,  dish  the  fish 
on  a  napkin,  garnish  with  parsley,  and 
serve  the  sauce  in  a  boat.  This  sauce 
must  not  be  made  until  the  moment  it  is 
panted. 

185.— TO  DEY  HADDOCK. 
Choose    the  finest    you  can  obtain; 
clean  them,  remove  the  eyes,  the  entrails, 
and  the  gills ;   clear  away  also  all  the 


blood  from  the  backbone.  Wipe  them 
as  dry  as  you  can  with  a  clean  soft  cloth, 
and  fill  in  with  salt  the  spaces  which  con- 
tained the  eyes  ;  also  rub  in  a  quantity 
in  the  inside  of  the  fish  ;  lay  them  in  a 
cool  place  on  a  dry  flag -stone,  or  a  piece 
of  board  for  eighteen  or  twenty  hours, 
then  hang  them  in  a  dry  place.  Foiir 
days  will  be  found  quite  sufficient  to  pre- 
pare them  for  eating. 

136.— TO  DEES8  DEIED  HADDOCK. 

They  should  be  skinned,  rubbed  with 
egg,  and  rolled  in  new  bread-crumbs ;  lay 
them  in  a  dish  before  the  fire  to  brown, 
baste  with  butter,  and  when  well  brown- 
ed serve  with  egg  sauce. 

137. — TO  DEESS  HADDOCK. 

Clean  them  very  thoroughly,  and  take 
off  the  heads  and  the  skin ;  put  them 
into  boiling,  water,  throw  in  two  moder- 
ate-sized handfuls  of  salt ;  let  them  boil 
as  fast  as  possible,  and  when  they  rise  to 
the  surface  (which  they  will  do,  if  they 
have  sufficient  room),  they  are  done 
enough.  They  are  sent  to  table  with 
plain  butter  for  sauce. 

138.— BAKED  HADDOCK— (Soycr's.) 

Fill  the  interior  of  the  fish  with  veal 
stuffing;  sew  it  up  with  packthread,  and 
truss  it  with  the  tail  in  its  mouth,  rub  a 
piece  of  butter  over  the  back,  or  egg  and 
bread-crumb  it  over;  set  it  on  a  baking- 
dish,  which  put  in  a  moderate  oven  to 
bake ;  a  common  haddock  would  require 
but  half  an  hour.  The  better  plan  is  to 
run  the  point  of  a  knife  down  to  the  back- 
bone, from  which  if  the  flesh  parts  easily, 
it  is  done ;  dress  it  upon  a  dish  without 
a  napkin,  and  serve  a  sauce  round. 

189.— TO  BAKE  HADDOCK. 

Cut  off  the  heads,  trim  and  bone  them, 

season  with  pepper  and  salt ;  chop  very 

fine  a  small  quantity  of  mushroom,  onion 

and  parsley ;  spread  it  over  the  fish,  la;y 


FISH. 


193 


on  them  small  pieces  of  butter,  arid  place 
them  in  a  dish  with  crumbs  of  bread ; 
bake  them  from  fifty  minutes  to  an  hour ; 
gkim  the  gravy,  and  serve  up  in  the  same 
dish  as  that  in  which  it  was  cooked. 

140.— HEEEINGS. 

Herrings  are  dressed  in  a  variety  of 
fashions  ;  they  are  fried,  boiled,  broiled, 
dried,  potted,  baked,  smoked  pickled. 

There  are  three  sorts  of  herrings,  fresh, 
salted,  and  red  herrings ;  they  are  cleaned 
like  any  other  sort  of  fish  ;  when  fresh 
they  are  boiled  and  served  with  melted 
butter,  white  sauce,  &c. ;  the  salted  her- 
ring should  be  soaked  in  cold  water  be- 
fore it  is  cooked  ;  this  is  broiled.  Some- 
times it  is  cut  in  pieces  and  eaten  raw ; 
the  red  herring  is  split  down  the  back, 
the  head  and  tail  taken  off,  and  the  fish 
broiled  like  the  others  ;  they  may  be  also 
dressed  in  the  following  manner :  when 
they  have  lain  in  cold  water  some  time, 
soak  them  in  milk  for  two  hours ;  then 
split  them  down  the  back;  have  ready 
some  melted  butter  in  which  have  been 
mixed  basil  and  bay  leaf  minced  small ; 
the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  pepper  and  nut- 
meg; rub  the  herrings  well  with  this 
bread,  then  broil  them  over  a  gentle  fire, 
serve  with  lemon  juice ;  the  best  red  her- 
rings are  full  of  roe,  are  firm  and  large, 
*  and  have  a  yellow  cast ;  of  the  fresh  her- 
rings the  scales  are  bright ;  if  good,  the 


eye  is  full  and 
should  be  stiff. 


the  gill  red;  the  fish 


141.— FEESH  HEEEINGS  BAKED. 
"Wash  the  herrings  in  clear  spring  wa- 
ter ;  when  they  are  thoroughly  clean  drain 
them,  and  then,  without  wiping  them,  lay 
them  in  a  dish  or  baking  pan ;  pepper 
and  salt  them ;  chop  finely  two  or  three 
onions,  some  parsley,  thyme,  and  strew 


They  should  be  kept  in  the  pickle,  and 
make  a  pleasant  dish  when  cold. 

142.-TO  POT  HEEEINGS. 

Take  from  one  to  two  dozen  herrings, 
according  to  the  number  you  purpose 
potting ;  choose  them  as  large,  fine,  and 
fresh  as  you  can.  Take  two  ounces  of 
salt,  one  of  saltpetre,  two  of  allspice ;  re- 
duce them  to  an  impalpable  powder,  and 
rub  them  well  into  the  herrings ;  let 
them  remain  with  the  spice  upon  them 
eight  hours  to  drain ;  wipe  off  the  spice 
clean,  and  lay  them  in  a  pan  on  which 
butter  has  been  rubbed;  season  with 
nutmeg,  mace,  white  pepper,  salt,  and  one 
clove  in  powder,  one  ounce  each,  save  the 
last ;  lay  in  two  or  three  bay  leaves,  cov- 

r  with  butter,  and  bake  gently  three 
hours. 

When  cool,  drain  off  the  liquor,  pack 
the  fish  in  the  pots  intended  for  their  use, 
cover  to  the  depth  of  half  an  inch  with 

larified  butter,  sufficiently  melted  just 

;o  run,  but  do  not  permit  it  to  be  hot ; 
they  will  be  ready  for  eating  in  two  days. 

143.— POTTED  HEEEING. 

Take  off  the  heads  and  tails ;  clean  the 
fish  and  shake  salt  on  them  to  draw  out 
the  blood ;  leave  them  one  night,  then 
rub  them  with  black  pepper  and  allspice. 
Pack  them  in  a  tin  pan ;  put  slices  of 
onions  and  bay  leaves  between  the  layers, 
and  pour  on  vinegar  enough  to  cover 
them.  Lay  over  them  a  sheet  of  butter- 
ed paper,  or  a  crust  of  oatmeal  bread; 
bake  them  till  the  bones  are  dissolved 
A  little  mace,  whole  pepper,  and  butter 
improve  them. 

144.— TO  STEW  MACKEEEL— (Now  "Way.) 

Take  off  the  heads,  the  fins,  the  tails. 


over  them ;  cover  them  with  equal  propor- 
tions of  vinegar  and  small  beer ;  tie  them 
over,  and  let  them  bake  one  hour  in  a 
slow  oven. 


and,  having  opened  the  fish,  and  taken 
out  all  the  hard  roes,  dry  them  with  a 
cloth,  and  dredge  them  lightly  with 
flour ;  place  three  or  four  of  them  in  a 


194 


THE    PEACTICAL    HOUSEKEEPER. 


stewpan,  with  a  lump  of  butter  the  size 
of  a  walnut,  to  each  fish;. put  into  a 
small  basin  a  teacupful  of  water,  a  table- 
spoonful  of  finely  chopped  onions,  the 
same  of  chopped  parsley,  a  blade  or  two 
of  mace,  a  little  pepper  and  salt,  a  table- 
spoonful  of  anchovy  essence,  and  a  small 
teacupful  of  ale  or  porter  (if  not  bitter). 
Add  a  tablespoonful  of  grated  bread-crust, 
not  burnt,  but  a  light  brown :  pour  all 
these  ingredients  over  the  fish,  and  let 
them  stew  gently  for  twenty  minutes ; 
have  ready  the  yolks  of  three  eggs,  well 
beaten,  and  when  the  fish  is  sufficiently 
done,  take  some  of  the  gravy  and  mix 
gradually  with  the  eggs,  and,  pouring 
them  on  the  fish,  shake  the  stewpan  a 
little  over  the  fire  to  thicken  the  whole, 
but  not  to  curdle  the  eggs ;  the  soft  roes 
added  are  an  improvement :  have  ready 
more  grated  crust,  and  having  placed  the 
fish  whole  in  the  dish,  shake  a  little  of 
the  grated  crust  over  the  whole,  so  as  to 
make  it  of  a  handsome  brown.  The  re- 
ceipt requires  to  be  carefully  followed. 
If  the  gravy  is  too  thick,  more  water 
may  be  added ;  also  a  glass  of  sherry,  if 
liked. 

146.— MACKEEEL 

Are  generally  served  up  plain  boiled ; 
put  them  in  a  kettle  containing  enough 
boiling  water  according  to  the  number, 
well  salted ;  let  simmer  nearly  half  an 
hour,  take  them  up,  drain,  and  dish  them 
upon  a  napkin  ;  serve  melted  butter  in  a 
boat,  with  which  you  have  mixed  a  table- 
spoonful  of  chopped  fennel,  boiling  it  a 
few  minutes. 

146.— MACKEREL. 

Cleanse  the  fish  thoroughly  inside  and 
out,  remove  the  roe  carefully,  steep  it  in 
vinegar  and  water,  and  replace  it ;  place 
the  fish  in  water  from  which  the  chill 
has  been  taken,  and  boil  very  slowly, 
from  fifteen  to  twenty  minutes  ;  the  best 
criterion  is  to  be  found  in  the  starting  of 


the  eyes  and  splitting  of  the  tail,  when 
that  takes  place  the  fish  is  done  ;  take  it 
out  of  the  water  instantly,  or  you  will 
not  preserve  it  whole.  Garnish  with 
fennel  or  parsley,  and  serve  up  as  sauce, 
either,  chopped  fine  in  melted  butter. 
Gooseberry  sauce  is  occasionally  sent  to 
table,  but  it  does  not  suit  every  palate. 

An  English  cook  says :  They  should  be 
carefully  cleaned  both  inside  and  out  ; 
then  washed  in  vinegar  and  water,  and 
left  to  hang  a  little  to  dry  before  being 
put  into  the  fish-kettle.  A  handful  of 
salt  should  be  put  into  the  water,  which 
should  be  at  firs-t  cold,  and  only  allowed 
to  boil  gently  from  fifteen  to  twenty 
minutes,  though  some  prefer  having  the 
water  boiling  hot.  The  fish  should  be 
watched  about  that  time,  as  "  when  the 
eye  starts  and  the  tail  splits  they  are 
done,  and  should  be  immediately  taken 
up  ;  if  left  in  the  water  they  will  break." 

The  most  customary  sauce  is  that  of 
fennel,  which  has  partly  superseded  the 
gooseberry ;  but  parsley  and  butter  are 
still  in  use. 

To  Broil. — Split  them  down  the  back, 
rub  the  inside  with  a  little  vinegar 
sprinkled  with  pepper  and  salt,  flour 
them,  broil  on  a  quick  fire,  and  serve 
them  up  with  melted  butter,  parsley, 
fennel,  or  lemon  sauce.  Or,  if  intended 
for  breakfast,  send  up  the  fish  plainly 
Iroiled  without  condiments  or  sauce,  and 
merely  rubbed,  when  done,  with  a  bit  of 
butter. 


147.— TO  EOAST  SHAD— (Sea-shore  Eeceipt.) 
Split  your  fish  down  the  back  after  he 
is  cleansed  and  washed  ;  nail  the  halves 
on  shingles  or  shortboard ;  stick  them 
erect  in  the  sand  round  a  large  fire ;  as 
soon  as  they  are  well  browned,  serve  on 
whatever  you  have ;  eat  with  cold  butter, 
black  pepper,  salt,  and  a  good  appetite. 
(This  is  a  delicious  way  of  cooking  this 
fish.) 


FISH. 


195 


148.— FOE  PEESEEVING  SHAD. 
l 

Place  the  shad,  cleaned  and  washed, 
on  a  layer  of  salt  in  the  bottom  of  the 
vessel,  alternating  the  layers  of  shad  and 
salt ;  the  salt  covering  the  top  ones. 
Leave  them  twenty-four  hours;  then 
take  them  out  and  wipe  them  dry.  For 
fifty  shad,  make  a  pickle  of  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  saltpetre  and  a  pound  of  brown 
sugar  mixed  with  salt  enough  to  cure  the 
fish ;  put  the  shad  in  alternate  layers 
with  this  dry  preparation ;  and  put  them 
away.  When  a  shad  is  taken  out  to 
cook,  it  should  be  soaked  a  few  hours 
before  broiling. 

149.— TO  BEOIL  A  SHAD. 

Shad  should  be  well  washed  and  dried. 
It  may  be  cut  in  half  and  broiled,  or  you 
may  split  it  open  and  lay  a  small  quan- 
tity of  salt  over  it,  and  lay  it  upon  a  grid- 
iron well  buttered.  It  will  broil  in 
about  twenty  minutes,  and  should  be 
thoroughly  done.  Melted  butter  may 
be  served  in  a  sauce-boat  with  it.  Shad 
is  even  more  palatable  when  baked  than 
broiled.  To  lake  Shad  it  should  be  stuff- 
ed with  mashed  potatoes  and  chopped 
parsley.  Lay  it  in  the  oven  on  a  pan 
which  is  well  covered  with  butter 
chopped  in  pieces ;  baste  the  fish  with 
the  butter  and  add  fresh  quantities  as 
fast  as  it  is  absorbed.  Half  or  three- 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  butter  should  be 
used  for  large-sized  shad. 

150.— TO  EOAST  PIKE— (Soycr.) 
This  fish,  in  France,  is  found  daily  on 
.the  tables  of  the  fish  epicures.  It  is 
usually  baked,  when  dressed  plain. 
Having  cleaned  the  fish,  stuff  it,  and  sew 
the  belly  up;  butter -a  saucepan,  (a  shal- 
low frying-pan,)  put  the  fish  into  it,  and 
place  it  in  the  oven  for  an?'  hour  or  more, 
according  to  the  size ;  when  done,  dish 
it  without  a  napkin,  and  pour  anchovy 
sauce  round  it.  The  fish,  before  baking, 


should  be  trussed  with  its  tail  in  its 
mouth,  and  have  four  incisions  cut  in 
each  side,  and  well  buttered  over. 

151.— FISH  CAKES. 

Cold  boiled  fresh  fish,  or  salt  codfish 
is  nice  minced  fine,  with  potatoes,  moist> 
ened  with  a  little  water,  and  a  little 
butter  put  in,  done  up  into  cakes  of  the 
size  of  common  biscuit,  and  fried  brown 

in  pork-fat  or  butter. 

« 

152.— TO  COOK  CAEP. 

Scour  a  fresh  caught  carp,  and  rub 
clean  with  salt  and  water ;  but  scale  him 
not;  open  him,  and  put  him.  with  his 
blood  and  liver  into  a  small  pot;  take  a 
handful  of  sweet  marjoram,  thyme,  or 
parsley,  a  sprig  of  rosemary  and  another 
of  savory.  Bind  them  in  small  bundles, 
and  add  them  to  the  carp,  with  four  or 
five  whole  onions,  twenty  pickled  oysters, 
and  three  anchovies.  Pour  on  claret 
wine  enough  to  cover  the  carp,  seasoned 
with  salt,  cloves,  mace  and  lemon-peel. 
Cover  the  pot,  and  set  it  on  a  quick  fire. 
When  done,  take  out  the  carp,  lay  it 
with  the  broth  into  a  dish.  Pour  over 
it  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  melted 
and  beaten  with  six  spoonfuls  of  the 
broth,  the  yolks  of  two  or  three  eggs, 
and  some  of  the  herbs  shred ;  garnish 
the  dish  with  lemons,  and  serve  up,  and 
much  good  to  you. 

153.— TO  COOK  TEOUT. 
(Frank  Forrester's  Method.) 

This  is  the  method  of  the  woods,  and 
in  the  woods  I  learned  it:  The  trout 
must  be  cooked  in  the  open  air,  by  a 
wood  fire  on  the  ground,  or  a  charcoal 
fire  in  a  small  Boston  furnace. 

Clean  and  scale  your  fish ;  open,  clean 
and  wash  the  inside ;  for  a  pound  fish 
take  two  small  -skewers  of  red  cedar 
wood ;  upon  each  thread  a  piece  of  fat 
salt  pork  half  an  inch  square;  with 


196 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


these  fasten  the  belly  of  the  fish  asun- 
der, annex  him  by  the  tail  to  a  twig  of 
pliant  wood,  which  suffer  to  bend  over 
the  fire  so  as  to  bring  the  fish  opposite 
to  the  blaze ;  place  a  large  biscuit,  or 
a  thin  slice  of  dry  toast,  under  the  drip 
of  the  gravy ;  cook  quickly.  For  a  two 
pound  fish  ten  minutes  will  suffice  j  dish 
with  the  biscuit  under  him,  and  eat  with 
salt  and  lemon-juice,  or  with  shrimp  or 
lobster  sauce ;  or  a  dash  of  Worcester- 
shire or  Harvey  sauce ;  though  I  think 
these  bad  taste. 

154.— TO  DEESS  PICKEEEL— (Nobbs.) 

Open  and  rub  the  fish  within  with  salt 
and  claret  wine ;  save  the  milt  and  a  little 
of  the  bloody  fat ;  cut  him  in  two  or  three 
pieces,  and  put  him  into  boiling  water, 
with  sweet  marjoram,  savory,  thyme,  or 
fennel,  and  a  good  handful  of  salt.  Boil 
nearly  half  an  hour.  For  the  sauce,  take 
butter,  anchovies,  horseradish,  claret 
wine,  a  little  of  the  blood,  shalot,  or  gar- 
lic, and  lemcn  sliced ;  beat  all  together, 
and  serve. 

155.— STEWED  CAEP. 

Three  carps  will  make  a  dish;  put 
them  in  a  baking-dish,  cut  up  in  thin 
pieces  a  carrot,  turnip,  onion,  celery,  a 
fagot  of  sweet  herbs,  a  bay-leaf,  a  little 
mace,  six  cloves,  whole  pepper,  some 
good  second  stock,  six  anchovies,  half  a 
pint  of  port  wine ;  boil  all  this  together, 
pour  it  over  the  carp  while  hot,  put  but- 
tered paper  over  them,  do  them  in  the 
oven ;  when  done,  strain  off  the  stock 
from  the  fish  and  thicken  it,  strain  it 
through  a  tammy,  add  a  glass  more  port 
wine,  season  it  with  sugar,  lemon-juice, 
cayenne  pepper,  and  salt. 

156.— SOLES,  FEIED. 

Have  about  four  pounds  of  lard  or 
clean  fat  in  a  small  fish-kettle,  which 
place  over  a  moderate  fire ;  cut  off  the 
fins  of  the  sole,  and  dip  it  into  flour, 


skake  part  of  the  flour  off,  have  an  egg 
well  beaten  upon  a  plate,  with  which 
brush  the  fish  all  over,  and  cover  it  with 
fine  bread-crumbs ;  ascertain  if  the  lard 
is  hot,  by  throwing  in  a  few  bread- 
crumbs ;  it  will  hiss  if  sufficiently  hot ; 
put  in  the  fish,  which  will  require  nearly 
ten  minutes'  cooking,  and  ought  to  be 
perfectly  crisp ;  drain  it  on  a  cloth,  dish 
upon  a  napkin,  garnish  with  parsley,  and 
serve  with  shrimp  sauce  in  a  boat. 

The  above  quantity  of  lard  or  fat,  if 
carefully  used  and  not  burnt,  would  do 
for  several  occasions,  by  straining  it  off 
each  time  after  using.  All  kinds  of  fish, 
such  as  eels,  smelts,  whitings,  flounders, 
perch,  gudgeons,  &c.,  are  fried  precisely 
in  the  same  manner.  Regulate  the  time 
according  to  the  size  of  your  fish. 

157.— PIKE. 

Clean  and  stuff  the  interior  as  directed 
for  haddocks,  only  adding  some  fillets  of 
anchovies,  if  handy,  and  chopped  lemon- 
peel  with  it ;  curl  round  and  put  in  a 
baking-dish,  spread  a  little  butter  all 
over,  put  in  a  moderate  oven;  when 
about  half  done  egg  over  with  a  paste- 
brush,  and  sprinkle  bread-crumbs  upon 
it ;  a  middling-sized  pike  will  take  about 
an  hour,  but  that  according  to  the  size 
and  the  heat  of  the  oven ;  when  done, 
dress  upon  a  dish  without  a  napkin,  and 
sauce  round  as  directed  for  baked  had- 
dock. 

158.— TO  FEY  SMELTS. 

Dry  them  slightly  in  a  cloth,  and  dip 
them  in  flour;  then  have  half  an  ounce 
of  butter  or  clear  fat  melted  in  a  basin, 
into  which  break  the  yolk  of  two  eggs, 
with  which  rub  the  smelts  over  with  a 
brush,  dip  them  in  bread-crumbs,  fry  in 
very  hot  lard,  dress  them  on  a  napkin, 
garnish  with  parsley,  and  serve  with 
shrimp  sauce^n  a  boat. 

159.— BEOILED  SMELTS. 

When  cleansed  and  wiped  dry  with  a 


FISH. 


197 


cloth,  dip  them  lightly  into  flour,  and 
put  them  upon  a  gridiron  over  a  slow 
fire,  for  five  or  six  minutes,  turning  them 
carefully  when  half  done ;  serve  plain, 
or  with  3  little  sauce.  They  are*much 
relished  by  sick  persons.  I  can  highly 
recommend  any  kind  of  white  fish  cook- 
ed in  this  manner  ;  and  it  is  well  known 
that  nothing  in  the  way  of  food  is  more 
digestible  than  fish. 

Wate£  souchet  of  flounders,  soles,  and 
slips  may  also  be  served  to  invalids,  by 
proceeding  the  same  as  above. 

160.— STUEGEON  CUTLETS. 

Cut  in  slices  one-quarter  inch  thick; 
dry,  flour,  and  egg  them;  dip  them  in 
crumbs,  seasoned  with  pepper,  salt,  pars- 
ley, and  thyme;  fry  them,  and  serve 
with  Indian  pickle,  tomato,  or  piquant 
sauce. 


161.— TO  STEW  STUEGEON. 
Cut  the  fish  in  slices  one  and  a  half 
inch  thick,  dip  them  in  vinegar,  dry  them 
well,  flour,  and  broil  the  slices;  then 
flour  and  lay  th$m  in  a  stewpan  with 
some  good  broth,  and  let  them  stew 
gently  until  perfectly  tender;  thicken 
the  gravy  with  butter  or  cream,  add  a 
spoonful  of  Harvey's  sauce,  one-half  a 
glass  of  wine,  and  serve  it  up  with  ca- 
pers strewed  over  the  top,  and  garnished 
with  slices  of  lemon. 


162.— ECONOMICAL  MODE  OP  COOKING 
STUEGEON. 

Take  a  piece  of  sturgeon  about  two 
pounds'  weight,  and  on  sending  a  piece  of 
meat  to  the  baker's  to  be  baked  on  a 
stand  in  a  dish,  put  the  sturgeon  under 
it,  with  a  little  water,  salt,  pepper,  &c., 
and  a  little  chopped  eschalot  may  be 
used ;  you  can  also  put  potatoes  round 
it.  Peas,  if  in  season,  are  a  good  accom- 
paniment, with  melted  butter. 
13 


163.-SHEIMP  TOAST-CEOUTE    AUX  CEE- 
VELLE3-(French.) 

Boil  five  pints  of  shrimps,  and  as  soon 
as  they  are  cold  shell  them ;  take  the 
heads  and  bruise  them  in  a  mortar,  put 
them  into  barely  a  quart  of  water,  and 
let  them  boil  an  hour,  strain  them  very 
clear,  and  add  three  parts  to  half  the 
quantity  of  good  veal  stock.  Put  into 
a  stewpan  a  lump  of  butter  the  size  of 
an  egg,  and  when  it  has  commenced  to 
bubble,  stir  in  one  teaspoonful  of  flour, 
a  little  grated  nutmeg,  a  sprinkling  of 
cayenne,  and  a  small  quantity  of  mace, 
the  fourth  of  a  teaspoonful ;  when  this 
browns,  pour  in  the  stock  gradually,  add- 
ing a  glass  of  vin  fie  Bordeaux,  and  let 
it  boil,  then  add  the  shrimps,  cut  oif  the 
bottom  crust  of  a  French  loaf,  hollow 
out  the  crumb,  and  fry  the  crust  in  fresh 
butter  until  a  golden  brown ;  as  soon  as 
the  shrimps  are  thoroughly  heated,  which 
will  be  in  about  three  or  four  minutes, 

pour  them  into  the  hollowed  toast. 

I 

164— SMELTS.-{English). 

This  is  a  very  delicate  fish,  requires 
delicate  handling,  and  is  quickly  cooked ; 
draw  through  the  gills  and  wipe  with  a 
soft  cloth,  but  do  not  wash  them ;  dip 
them  into  the  yolk  of  an  egg  beaten  very 
smooth,  and  sprinkle  them  with  bread- 
crumbs as  finely  as  they  can  be  powder- 
ed, a  little  flour  may  be  mixed  with  the 
bread-crumbs  ;  fry  them  a  clear  light 
brown ;  four  minutes  will  suffice  to  cook 
them. 

The  French  method  of  serving  is  to 
skewer  six  through  the  gills  with  a  sil- 
ver skewer,  and  serve  them  in  sixes.  If 
dished,  lay  them  head  and  tail  alternate- 
ly, serve  with  melted  butter  and  garnish 
with  parsley. 

165.— TO  BAKE  SMELTS. 
Prepare    as    above,    and    instead    of 
strewin'*  forcemeat  over  them,  employ 


198 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


only  bread  crumbs,  and  moisten  with 
clarified  butter ;  mix  in  addition  to  the 
gravy  a  glass  of  Madeira,  with  a  dash 
of  anchovies;  this  must  be  added  be- 
fore the  smelts  are  laid  in.  They  will 
be  done  in  ten  minutes. 

166.— TROUT. 

Scale,  gut,  clean,  dry,  and  flour,  fry 
them  in  butter  until  they  are  a  rich  clear 
brown,  fry  some  green  parsley  crisp,  and 
make  some  plain  melted  butter,  put  in 
one  teaspoonful  of  essence  of  anchovy, 
and  one  glass  of  white  wine ;  garnish 
when  the  trout  are  dished  with  the  crisp- 
ed parsley  and  lemon  cut  in  slices  ;  the 
butter  may  be  poured  over  the  fish,  but 
it  is  most  advisable  to  send  it  in  a  but- 
ter tureen. 

167.— TO  FEY  TEOUT. 

Scale,  gut,  and  clean  them ;  take  out 
the  gills ;  egg  and  crumb  them ;  then  fry 
in  lard  or  oil  until  of  a  light  brown. 
Serve  with  anchovy-sauce  and  sliced 
lemon. 

188.— IN  THE  FOREIGN  MODE. 

Cover  the  bottom  of  a  small  oval  pa- 
per form  with  a  few  very  thin  slices  of 
fat  bacon ;  cut  down  the  back  some  nice- 
ly-washed small  trout,  and,  having  re- 
moved the  bones,  lay  the  fish  open,  flat 
upon  the-  bacon ;  sprinkle  with  chopped 
parsley,  pepper,  salt,  a  little  mace,  and 
two  cloves  finely  pounded.  Bake  one- 
half  hour  in  a  quick  oven,  and  serve  in 
paper. 

169—  TRUITE  A  LA  GENEVOISE. 

Clean  the  fish  as  above,  lay  them  in  a 
Btewpan  with  two  glasses  of  champagne, 
two  glasses  of  sherry,  a  fagot  of  parsley, 
an  onion  stuck  with  cloves,  thyme,  pep- 
per, and  salt,  and  a  piece  of  the  well 
baked  crust  of  French  bread  ;  stew  on  a 


quick  fire,  take  out  the  bread  when  the 
fish  is  done,  brown  it,  mix  in  butter  roll- 
ed in  flour,  and  boil  up  to  thicken  the 
sauce ;  the  fish  having  been  taken  out 
when  done,  pour  over  them  the  thicken- 
ed sauce,  serve  with  lemon  sliced  and 
fried  bread. 


170.— TllUITE  1  LA  PEINCESSE  EOYALE. 

Take  equal  parts  of  Madeira  and 
water,  and  let  them  come  to  a  boil,  having 
emptied,  cleansed,  washed,  and  wiped  per- 
fectly dry  the  trout ;  lay  them  in ;  they 
should  only  be  just  covered  with  the  li- 
quor, and  will  be  done  in  twenty  minutes 
if  not  boiled  too  fast ;  take  out  the  fish 
and  thicken  with  a  piece  of  butter  rolled  in 
flour ;  add  two  well  beaten  eggs  with  one 
teaspoonful  of  cream  to  the  sauce,  pour- 
ing them  from  one  vessel  to  another  un- 
til they"  are  of  a  creamy  consistency ; 
season  with  salt,  pour  the  sauce  upon 
the  fish,  and  serve. 


171.— TEOUT  1  LA  TWICKENHAM. 

When  you  have  cleaned  your  trout, 
put  them  into  a  kettle  of  boiling  water, 
to  which  you  have  added  a  good  handful 
of  salt,  and  a  wine-glassful  of  vinegar; 
boil  gently  abojit  twenty  minutes,  or  ac- 
cording to  their  size ;  dress  upon  a  nap- 
kin, and  serve  melted  butter,  into  which 
you  have  put  a  table-spoonful  of  chopped 
gherkins,  two  sprigs  of  chopped  parsley, 
salt  and  pepper,  in  a  boat. 

The  remains  of  trout,  salmon,  or  mack- 
erel, are  excellent  pickled: — put  three 
onions  in  slices  in  a  stewpan,  with  two 
ounces  of  butter,  one  turnip,  a  bouquet 
of  parsley,  thyme,  and  bay-leaf,  pass 
them  five  minutes  over  the  fire,  add  a 
pint  of  water  and  a  pint  of  vinegar,  two 
teaspoonfuls  of  salt  and  one  of  pepper; 
boil  until  the  onions  are  tender,  then 
strain  it  through  a  sieve  over  the  fish ; 
it  will  keep  some  time  if  required,  and 


FISH. 


199 


then  do  to  pickle  more  fish  by  boiling 
aver  again. 

1T2. -TROUT  STEWED. 

This  is  a  pleasing  and  delicate  fish 
when  nicely  stewed.  It  is  dressed  very 
much  in  the  fashion  of  other  small  fish 
stewed,  only  that  it  requires  perhaps 
more  care  in  the  different  processes. 

First  wash  and  clean  the  fish,  wipe  it 
perfectly  dry;  put  into  a  stewpan  two 
ounces  of  butter,  dredge  in  as  it  melts, 
flour,  and  add  grated  nutmeg,  a  little 
mace,  and  a  little  cayenne.  Stew  well, 
and  when  fluid  and  thoroughly  mixed, 
lay  in  the  fish,  which,  having  suffered  to 
slightly  brown,  cover  with  a  pint  of  veal 
gravy;  throw  in  a  little  salt,  a  small 
fagot  of  parsley,  a  few  rings  of  lemon- 
peel  ;  stew  slowly  forty  minutes ;  take 
out  the  fish,  strain  the  gravy  clear  and 
pour  it  over  the  fish ;  it  may  be  strained 
over  it ;  before  however,  it  is  poured  over ; 
a  glass  of  bucellas  may  be  added  to  the 
gravy. 

173.— TUEBOT. 

Place  the  turbot,  previously  to  cook- 
ing, to  soak  in  salt  and  water  in  which  a 
little  vinegar  has  been  poured;  lay  it 
upon  its  back  in  the  fish-kettle,  fill  the 
latter  three  parts  full  with  cold  water, 
throw  in  a  handful  of  salt,  a  gill  of  vine- 
gar, let  it  boil  very  gradually,  and  when 
it  boils,  add  cold  water  to  check ;  thirty 
minutes  are  sufficient  to  cook  it ;  serve  it 
upon  a  cloth  as  boiled  with  its  back  to 
the  dish ;  garnish  tastefully  with  sprigs 
of  parsley,  and  horseradish  scraped  into 
curls,  or  with  fried  smelts,  or  barberries 
and  parsley.  Lobster  sauce.  • 

174.-TUEBOT  A  LA  CREME 

Is  made  from  the  remains  of  a  turbol 
left  from  a  previous  dinner  :  pick  all  the 
flesh  from  the  bones,  which  warm  in  salt 
and  water,  and  have  ready  the  following 
sauce :  put  one  ounce  of  flour  into  a  stew- 


pan,  to  which  add  by  degrees  a  quart  of 
milk,  mixing  it  very  smoothly;  then 
add  two  peeled  eschalots,  a  bouquet  of 
parsley,  a  bay-leaf  and  a  sprig  of  thyme 
tied  together ;  add  a  little  grated  nutmeg, 
a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  a  quarter  ditto 
of  pepper  ;  place  it  over  the  fire,  stirring 
until  it  forms  a  thickish  sauce;  then 
take  it  from  the  fire,  stir  in  a  quarter  of 
a  pound  of  fresh  butter,  and  pass  it 
through  a  tammy;  lay  a  little  of  it  upon 
the  bottom  of  a  convenient-sized  dish, 
then  a  layer  of  the  fish ;  season  lightly 
with  a  little  white  pepper  and  salt,  then 
another  layer  of  sauce,  proceeding  thus 
until  the  fish  is  all  used,  finishing  with 
sauce ;  sprinkle  a  few  bread-crumbs  over, 
and  put  it  into  a  warm  oven  half  an  hour ; 
brown  with  the  salamander,  and  serve 
upon  the  dish  it  is  baked  on.  Any  re- 
mains of  boiled  fish  may  be  dressed  the 
same  way. 

175.— CRIMPED  SALMON— 1  LA  CREME. 
The  salmon,  like  cod,  must  be  quite 
fresh  or  it  will  not  crimp.  Cut  the  body 
into  slices  about  two  inches  thick  ;  have 
ready  some  salt  and  water  in  the  propor- 
tion of  three  ounces  of  salt  to  a  quart  of 
water,  with  the  smallest  knob  of  salt- 
petre  about  the  size  of  a  nut ;  dip  the  sal- 
mon slices  into  this  as  they  are  cut,  hold 
them  for  half  a  minute,  and  then  rinse 
them  in  clear  cold  spring  water,  and  lay 
them  upon  a  dish ;  put  a  lump  of  butter 
well  rubbed  in  flour  into  a  stewpan ;  while 
the  butter  is  melting  sprinkle  in  a  little 
salt  and  cayenne,  and  when  the  butter  is 
on  the  simmer  stir  in  half  a  pint  of  cream, 
keep  stirring,  and  as  it  boils  squeeze  in 
the  juice  of  a  quarter  of  a  lemon,  and  stir 
in  a  large  teaspoonful  of  essence  of  an- 
chovies ;  add  a  little  more  salt  to  taste. 

Having  boiled  the  crimped  salmon  slices 
in  quick  boiling  water  ten  minutes,  take 
them  out  and  let  them  drain  one  minute, 
put  them  in  a  clean  stewpan,  and  pour 


200 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


over  the  prepared  cream  and  let  it  sim- 
mer ten  minutes ;  it  should  not  if  possible 
be  suffered  to  boil. 

The  lemon  juice  is  sometimes  deferred 
until  the  fish  is  removed  from  the  cream, 
a  minute's  simmer  is  allowed,  and  it  is 
then  all  poured  over  the  salmon  and  sent 
very  hot  to  table. 

176.— TO  BOIL  SALMON. 

(Frank  Forrester's  own  receipt.) 

If  you  are  ever  so  lucky  as  to  catch  a 
salmon,  where  incontinently  you  can  pro- 
ceed to  cook  him — that  is  to  say,  in  the 
wilderness,  within  ten  yards  of  the  door 
of  your  own  shantee,  with  the  fire  burn- 
ing and  the  pot  boiling — good. 

Stun  him  by  a  heavy  blow  on  the  head ; 
crimp  him  by  a  succession  of  cuts  on  each 
side,  through  the  muscle,  quite  down  to 
the  back-bone,  with  a  very  sharp  knife, 
in  slashes  parallel  to  the  gill  cover. 
Then  place  him  for  ten  minutes  in  a  cold 
spring,  or  under  the  jet  of  a  waterfall. 
Meanwhile,  keep  your  pot  boiling,  nay, 
screeching  with  intense  heat,  filled  with 
brine  strong  enough  to  bear  an  egg. 
Therein  immerse  him,  having  cujt  out  the 
gills,  open  the  belly,  and  wash  the  inside  ; 
boil  him  at  the  rate  of  seven  minutes  and 
a  half  to  the  pound ;  dish  him,  and  serv- 
ing him  with  no  sauce,  save  a  tureenful 
of  the  water  in  which  he  has  been  boiled, 
proceed  to  eat  him.  with  no  other  condi- 
ments than  a  little  salt  and  the  slightest 
squeeze  of  a  lemon.  I  do  not  object  to 
cucumber  sliced  very  fine,  with  a  dressing 
of  oil,  three  tablespoonfuls  to  one  of  vine- 
gar, salt  and  black  pepper  to  taste  ;  but 
I  regard  green  peas,  or  any  vegetable, 
with  this  grand  fish,  as  a  Cockney  abomi- 
nation. 

ITT.-SOYEK'S  KECEIPT-SALMON  AU 
NATUEEL. 

Clean  and  prepare  as  before  ;  but  if  he 
be  not  fresh  enough  to  crimp,  scale  him 
and  proceed  as  follows  : 


Put  your  fish  in  cold  water,  using  a 
pound  of  salt  to  every  six  quarts  ;  let  it 
be  well  covered,  and  set  it  over  a  moder- 
ate fire;  when  it  begins  to  simmer,  set  it 
on  one  side  the  fire.  If  the  fish  weigh 
four  pounds,  let  it  simmer  half  an  hour  ; 
if  eight,  three-quarters,  and  so  on  in  pro- 
portion ;  dish  it  on  a  napkin,  and  serve 
lobster  or  shrimp  sauce  in  a  bowl. 

178.— TO  BOIL  SALMON. 
Salmon  is  dressed  in  various  ways,  but 
chiefly  boiled  in  large  pieces  of  a  few 
pounds'  weight.  The  middle  piece  is 
considered,  if  not  the  richest,  yet  the 
most  sightly;  then  that  adjoining  the 
jowl;  the  tail  part,  though  nearly  as 
good,  being  usually  kept  for  steaks.  It 
requires  great  attention,  and  the  boiling 
must  be  checked  more  than  once ;  a  piece 
of  four  to  five  pounds,  will  take  nearly 
an  hour,  but  if  double  that  weight  will 
not  require  more  than  twenty  minutes 
beyond  that  time,  and  if  crimped,  still 
less  will  be  sufficient :  let  it,  however, 
boil  slowly,  in  the  hardest  water,  on  a 
strainer  placed  in  a  large  fish-kettle,  and 
be  thoroughly  done,  for  nothing  is  more 
disgusting  than  fish  that  is  under- cooked ; 
skim  it  well,  or  the  color  will  be  bad ; 
the  moment  it  is  ready,  lift  up  the  strain- 
er and  rest  it  across  the  kettle,  that  the 
fish  may  drain ;  cover  it  with  a  thick 
cloth. 

179.— TO  BAKE  SALMON. 
Scale  it,  and  take  out  the  bone  from 
the  part  to  be  dressed,  but  fill  up  the 
cavity  with  forcemeat,  and  bind  the 
piece  with  tape.  Then  fiour  it,  »ub  it  with 
yolk  of  egg,  and  put  it  into  a  deep  baking- 
dish,  covering  it  very  thickly  with  crumbs 
of  bread,  chopped  parsley,  and  sweet  herbs, 
together  with  shrimps,  if  they  can  be  got, 
and  put  into  the  covering  a  few  small 
bits  of  fresh  butter;  place  it  in  a  Dutch 
oven,  or,  if  already  boiled  and  thus  re- 


FISH. 


201 


dressed,  heat  it  only  before  the  fire  until 
browned. 

180.— SALMON,  PLAIN  BOILED— (Soyer.) 
I  prefer  always  dressing  this  fish  in 
slices  from  an  inch  to  two  inches  in  thick- 
ness, boiling  it  in  plenty  of  salt  and  water 
about  twenty  minutes;  the  whole  fish 
•may  be  boiled,  or  the  head  and  shoulders 
of  a  large  fish,  but  they  require  longer 
boiling.  Salmon  eats  firmer  by  not 
being  put  into  the  water  until  boiling. 
Dress  the  fish  upon  a  napkin,  and  serve 
with  lobster  sauce,  shrimp  ditto,  or 
plain  melted  butter  in  a  boat  with 
fresh  sprigs  of  parsley  boiled  a  few 
minutes  in  it.  A  salmon  weighing  about 
ten  pounds  will  require  an  hour's  gentle 
boiling ;  a  head  and  shoulders  weighing 
six  pounds,  half  an  hour ;  the  remains 
may  be  dressed  a  la  cre'me,  as  directed 
for  turbot. 

181.— SALMON— TO  BOIL. 
This  fish  cannot  be  too  soon  cooked 
after  being  caught ;  it  should  be  put  into 
a  kettle  with  plenty  of  cold  water,  and  a 
handful  of  salt ;  the  addition  of  a  small 
quantity  of  vinegar  will  add  to  the  firm- 
ness of  the  fish;  let  it  boil  gently;  if 
four  pounds  of  salmon,  fifty  minutes  will 
suffice;  if  thick,  a  few  minutes  more 
may  be  allowed.  The  best  criterion  for 
ascertaining  whether  it  be  done,  is  to 
pass  a  knife  between  the  bone  and  the 
fish ;  if  it  separates  readily,  it  is  done ; 
this  should  be  tried  in  the  thickest  part ; 
when  cooked  lay  it  on  the  fish  strainer 
transversely  across  the  kettle,  so  that 
the  fish  while  draining  may  be  kept  hot. 
Place  a  fish  plate  upon  the  dish  on  which 
the  salmon  is  to  be  served  ;  fold  a  clean 
white  napkin,  lay  it  upon  the  fish  plate, 
and  place  the  salmon  upon  the  napkin. 
Garnish  with  parsley. 

Sp 

182.— BEOILED  SALMON. 
Dip  each  piece  in  flour,  put  it  on  a  grid- 
iron, turn  occasionally;  fifteen  minutes 


will  give  it  a  nice  pale  yellow  color ;  it 
should  be  served  with  Dutch,  or  caper 
sauce. 

188.-SALMON  BEOILED. 

Cut  the  fish  in  slices  from  the  best 
part,  each  slice  should  be  an  inch  thick ; 
season  well  with  pepper  and  salt ;  wrap 
each  slice  in  white  paper,  which  has  been 
buttered  wi£h  fresh  butter ;  fasten  each 
end  by  twisting  or  tying ;  broil  over  a 
very  clear  fire  eight  minutes.  A  coke 
fire,  if  kept  clear  and  bright  is  best.  Serve 
with  butter,  anchovy,  or  tomato  sauce. 

184.— DRIED  SALMON  BEOILED. 

Cut  and  cook  as  above,  save  that  when 
it  is  warmed  through,  it  is  enough.  Serve 
plain  for  breakfast,  or  with  egg  sauce  if 
for  dinner. 

185.— TO  DET  SALMON. 
Cut  the  fish  down,  take  out  the  inside 
and  roe,  rub  the  whole  with  common  salt 
after  scaling  it ;  let  it  hang  twenty-four 
hours  to  drain.  Pound  three  or  four 
ounces  of  saltpetre,  according  to  the  size 
of  the  fish,  two  ounces  of  bay  salt,  and 
two  ounces  of  coarse  sugar ;  rub  these, 
when  mixed  well,  into  the  salmon,  and 
lay  it  in  a  large  dish  or  tray  two  days ; 
then  rub  it  well  with  common  salt,  and 
in  twenty-four  hours  more  it  will  be  fit 
to  dry;  wipe  it  well  after  draining.  Hang 
it  either  in  a  wood  chimney  or  in  a  dry 
place,  keeping  it  open  with  two  small 
sticks.  Dried  salmon  is  eaten  broiled  in 
paper,  and  only  just  warmed  through, 
egg-sauce  and  mashed  potatoes  with  it ; 
or  it  may  be  boiled,  especially  the  part 
next  the  head. 

186.— TO  PICKLE  SALMON. -The  Newcastle 
Method. 

Put  any  quantity  of  salmon  into  an 
earthen  jar ;  cover  it  with  equal  parts  of 
good  vinegar  and  water;  add  cayenne 
pepper  and  salt  in  proportion  to  the  fish, 
and  bake  if  in  a  moderate  oven.  This 


202 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


pickle  will  keep  a  long  time,  with  the  ad- 
dition of  a  little  fresh  vinegar ;  and  if 
mace  or  oloves  be  added,  with  a  few  bay- 
leaves  laid  in  the  mouth  of  the  jar,  it  will 
be  found  an  improvement.  Trout  may 
be  preserved  the  same  way.  Fish  thus 
pickled,  must  not  be  washed  previously, 
but  rubbed  with  a  dry  cloth. 

Though  generally  eaten  cold,  yet  in 
Newcastle  it  is  not  unfrequently  warmed 
up  in  its  pickle-liquor. 

18T.-SALMON— TO  PICKLE  UNDKESSED. 

Scale  the  fish,  rub  well  with  a  cloth, 
and  scrape  away  all  the  blood  about  the 
backbone,  but  do  not  wash  it ;  cut  off  the 
head,  and  divide  the  fish  into  pieces  about 
six  inches  long  ;  then  boil  the  pieces  in  a 
pickle  made  of  equal  parts  of  vinegar  and 
water,  with  a  few  cloves  and  two  or 
three  blades  of  mace  until  done.  Skim 
carefully  all  the  time  the  fish  is  boiling, 
and  when  done  remove  the  fish  and  pour 
the  liquor  into  a  jar  or  tub.  so  that  both 
may  become  cold;  when  cold,  put  the 
fish  into  the  liquor,  with  one-third  more 
vinegar,  and  some  whole  pepper. 

188.— SALMON  POTTED. 

Cut  a  handsome  piece  from  the  middle 
of  the  salmon;  remove  the  scales,  and 
wipe  it  with  a  clean  cloth.  Rub  into  it 
some  common  salt  thoroughly. 

Beat  up  some  mace,  cloves,  and  whole 
pepper ;  season  the  salmon  with  it ;  place 
it  in  a  pan  with  a  few  bay  leaves ;  cover 
it  with  butter,  and  bake  it  until  thorough- 
ly done ;  remove  it  from  the  gravy,  let- 
ting it  drain  thoroughly,  then  place  it  in 
the  pots.  Clarify  sufficient  butter  to 
cover  all  the  pots  after  the  salmon  has 
been  put  into  them ;  put  it  to  cool. 

189.-TO  PICKLE  SALMON. 

Scale,  clean,  split,  and  divide  into  hand- 
some pieces  the  salmon ;  place  them  in 


the  bottom  of  a  stewpan,  with  just  suffi- 
cient water  to  cover  them. 

Put  into  three  quarts  of  water  one  pint 
of  vinegar,  a  dozen  bay  leaves,  half  that 
quantity  of  mace,  a  handful  of  salt,  and 
a  fourth  part  of  an  ounce  of  black  pepper. 

When  the  salmon  is  sufficiently  boiled 
remove  it,  drain  it,  place  it  upon  a  cloth. 
Put  in  the  kettle  another  layer  of  salmon  ;> 
pour  over  it  the  liquor  which  you  have 
prepared,  and  keep  it  until  the  salmon  is 
done.  Then  remove  the  fish,  place  it  in 
a  deep  dish  or  pan,  cover  it  with  the  pic- 
kle, which,  if  not  sufficiently  acid,  may 
receive  more  vinegar  and  salt,  and  be 
boiled  forty  minutes.  Let  the  air  be 
kept  from  the  fish,  and,  if  kept  for  any 
length  of  time  it  will  be  found  necessary 
to  occasionally  drain  the  liquor  from  the 
fish ;  skim,  and  boil  it. 

190.— COLLAKED  SALMON. 
Cut  off  the  head  and  shoulders,  and 
the  thinnest  part  of  the  tail,  thus  leaving 
the  primest  part  of  the  salmon  to  be  col- 
lared. Split  it,  and  having  washed  and 
wiped  it  well,  make  a  compound  of  cay- 
enne pepper,  white  pepper,  a  little  salt, 
and  some  pounded  mace.  Rub  the  fish 
well  with  this  mixture  inside  and  out ; 
roll  and  bandage  with  broad  tape ;  lay 
it  in  a  saucepan ;  cover  it  with  water  and 
vinegar,  one  part  of  the  latter  to  two  of 
the  former ;  add  a  table-spoonful  of  pep- 
per, black  and  white  whole,  two  bay 
leaves,  and  some  salt.  Keep  the  lid 
closed  down.  Simmer  until  enough, 
strain  off  the  liquor ;  let  it  cool ;  pour 
over  the  fish  when  cold,  garnish  with 
fennel. 

191.-COLLAEED  EELS. 

The  eels  destined  to  be  dressed  as 
above  should  be  the  finest  which  can  be 
selected :  the  sjdn  must  not  be  removed, 
but  the  bone  must  be  carefully  and  cle- 
verly extracted.  Spread  out  the  fish, 


FISH. 


203 


and  with  some  finely  chopped  sage,  pars- 
ley, and  mixed  spices,  rub  the  fish  well 
over ;  then  take  some  broad  white  tape, 
bind  up  the  fish  tightly ;  throw  a  good 
handful  of  salt  into  the  water  in  which 
it  is  to  be  boiled,  and  a  couple  of  bay 
leaves.  Boil  three-quarters  of  an  hour, 
and  if  the  fish  be  taken  out  and  hung  to 
dry  for  twelve  hours,  it  will  be  the  better 
for  it  when  served.  Add  to  the  water 
in  which  the  fish  has  been  boiled  a  pint 
of  vinegar,  a  little  whole  pepper,  some 
knotted  marjoram  or  thyme.  This  pickle 
also  should,  after  boiling  about  twelve 
minutes,  be  suffered  to  stand  as  long  as 
the  eels  are  recommended  to  be  hung  ; 
previous  to  serving,  the  fish  must  be  un- 
rolled so  as  to  abrase  the  skin  as  little  as 
possible,  and  put  them  into  the  pickle. 
Send  up  in  slices  or  whole,  according  to 
taste  ;  garnish  with  parsley. 

192.— EELS  BEEAD  CEUMBED. 

Cut  into  pieces  same  length  as  above, 
cleaned  nicely  and  well  dried ;  let  them 
be  coated  with  yolk  of  egg,  powdered 
with  bread  crumbs ;  fry  them  brown ; 
serve  with  parsley  and  butter.  Garnish 
with  handsome  sprigs  of  parsley. 

193.— SPITCHCOCKED  EELS. 
There  are  several  ways  to  spitchcock 
eels.  They  are  either  broiled  or  stewed. 
To  broil  them,  see  that  the  gridiron  is 
cleansed  and  rubbed  with  suet,  to  prevent 
the  adhesion  of  the  skin  of  the  fish, 
which  must  be  suffered  to  remain  on; 
cut  the  eels,  which  should  be  large,  into 
lengths  of  six  or  seven  inches,  not  less, 
and  coat  them  well  with  yolk  of  egg. 
Pound  in  a  mortar,  parsley,  nutmeg,  mace, 
cloves,  and  pepper ;  this  should  be  rubbed 
over  the  fish,  and  they  should  be  broiled 
a  clear  brown ;  serve  with  melted  butter, 
fish  sauce,  according  to  palate. 

194— EELS  FKIED. 

Cut  your  eels  into  pieces  three  inches 


long,  trim  them,  dip  the  pieces  into  flour, 
egg  over  with  a  paste-brush,  and  throw 
them  into  some  bread-crumbs ;  fry  in 
hot  lard  as  directed  for  fried  soles. 

195.— EELS  1  LA  TAETAEE. 

Fry  as  directed  above,  and  serve  on 
some  Tartare  sauce  ;  or  partly  stew  first, 
and,  when  cold,  egg,  bread-crumb,  and 
broil  gently.  This  last  I  much  prefer. 

196.— STEWED  EELS. 

Procure  as  large  eels  as  possible,  which 
cut  into  pieces  three  inches  long,  and  put 
them  into  a  stewpan,  with  an  onion,  a 
bouquet  of  two  bay-leaves,  a  sprig  of 
thyme  and  parsley,  six  cloves,  a  blade  of 
mace,  a  glass  of  sherry,  and  two  of  water ; 
place  the  stewpan  over  a  moderate  fire, 
and  let  simmer  about  twenty  minutes, 
or  according  to  the  size  of  the  eels ;  when 
done,  drain  upon  a  cloth,  dress  them  in 
pyramid  upon  a  dish  without  a  napkin, 
with  a  matelote  sauce  over,  made  as 
directed  for  salmon  sauce  matelote,  but 
using  the  stock  your  eels  have  been  cook- 
ed in  to  make  the  sauce,  having  previous- 
ly well  boiled  it  to  extract  all  the  fat 

197.— EEL  PIE. 

Take  six  skinned  eels,  remove  tho 
heads,  and  cut  them  into  pieces  four 
inches  lojig  ;  add  two  dozen  oysters,  boil 
them  together  in  a  very  little  water  ; 
take  out  the  oysters,  and  bone  the  eels 
by  passing  them  through  a  sieve. 

Take  six  hard  boiled  eggs,  parsley, 
fried  herbs,  lemon-peel,  black  pepper, 
salt,  mace,  nutmeg,  and  allspice;  the 
whole  ground  very  fine;  add  these  to 
the  eels  and  oysters  with  the  broth  and  a 
bit  of  fresh  butter.  ^ 

Take  a  large,  deep  dish,  of  yellow 
earthen  ware ;  put  the  mass  into  it,  and 
cover  the  dish  with  a  fine  pastry  crust 
Bake  it  in  a  very  hot  oven  from  half  an 
hour  to  three-quarters  according  to  the 
heat. 


204: 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


198.— SHELL  FISH. 

Although  crabs  and  lobsters  may  be 
bought  the  whole  year  round,  they  are 
yet  only  in  high  season,  from  the  month 
of  July  till  the  close  of  October.  They 
should  be  always  purchased  alive. 

If  lobsters  have  not  been  long  taken, 
the  claws  will  have  a  strong  motion  when 
you  put  j^our  finger  on  the  eyes  and 
press  them.  The  heaviest,  if  of  good 
size,  are  the  best,  but  the  largest  are  not 
the  best.  When  you  buy  them  ready 
boiled,  try  whether  their  tails  are  stiff, 
and  pull  up  with  a  spring ;  if  otherwise, 
they  are  either  watery  or  not  fresh.  The 
<c  cock-lobster,"  as  the  male  is  called,  is 
known  by  the  narrow  back  part  of  his 
tail,  and  the  two  uppermost  fins  within  it 
are  stiff  and  hard  ;  but  those  of  the  hen 
are  soft,  and  the  tail  broader.  The  male, 
though  generally  smaller,  has  the  highest 
flavor ;  the  flesh  is  firmer,  and  the  color, 
when  boiled,  is  a  deeper  red  ;  but  the  fe- 
male has  that  fine  coral  so  highly  prized 
by  cooks  for  the  improvement  of  their 
sauces,  which  appears  with  the  rudiments 
.of  the  spawn. 

199.— TO  BOIL  LOBSTERS. 

Put  them  alive,  with  their  claws  tied 
together,  into  the  water  when  boiling 
hot,  and  keep  it  so  un.til  the  fisli'  is  done, 
which,  if  of  a  pound  weight,  will  take 
about  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  and  if  larger 
will  require  not  quite  the  same  propor- 
tion of  time,  for  if  boiled  too  long  the 
meat  will  be  stringy.  Many  people  are 
shocked  at  the  apparent  cruelty  of  thus 
killing  them,  but  death  takes  place  im- 
mediately, and  life  cannot  be  taken  away 
without  pain.  * 

When  sent  to  table  to  be  eaten  cold, 
the  tail  and  body  should  be  split  from 
'end  to  end,  the  claws  cracked,  but  not 
unshelled,  and  the  meat  may  be  made 
into  salad,  or  mixed  in  such  manner  as 


each  person  pleases,  and  many  persons  add 
a  teaspoonful  of  white  pondered  sugar, 
thinking  that  it  gives  a  mellowness  to 
the  whole.  It  is  scarcely  necessary  to 
mention  that  the  head  of  a  lobster,  and 
what  are  called  the  "  lady-fingers,"  are 
not  to  be  eaten". 


Lobster  as  served. 
200.— TO  STEW  LOBSTERS. 

Pick  the  meat  out  of  the  shell,  put  it 
into  a  stewpan  with  half  a  pint  of  good 
gravy  and  a  glass  of  claret ;  add  an  onion 
minced  fine,  some  sweet  herbs,  and  pep- 
per and  salt,  stew  till  tender ;  add  a  large 
spoonful  of  mushroom  ketchup3  one  of 
essence  of  anchovy,  and  a  lump  of  butter 
rolled  in  flour.  Serve  hot,  and  garnish 
with  bread  sippets.  If  brought  on  cold 
as  a  supper  dish,  serve  in  a  shape  cover- 
ed with  clear  jelly. 

201.— BOILING*  LOBSTERS. 

Put  the  lobsters  into  boiling  water, 
with  a  little  salt,  and  boil  them  till  they 
are  cooked  through ;  the  color  of  the 
shell  is  of  importance,  and  is  made  bright 
by  rubbing  the  shell  with  sweet  oil  after 
it  is  wiped.  Split  the  body  and  tail 
through,  and  crack  the  claws.  It  is  then 
fit  to  go  to  the  table,  where  it  must  be 
cut  up  fine  before  eating.  A  dressing, 
made  of  salt,  mustard,  oil,  cayenne  pep- 
per and  vinegar,  mixed  with  the  yolk  of 
an  egg,  is  usually  prepared  for  it.  The 
white  of  an  egg  (boiled  hard,  of  course,) 
may  be  minced  fine  and  strewn  over  it. 


SHELL-FISH. 


205 


202.— LOBSTER  CURRIED. 

Take  the  meat  of  a  fine  lobster,  or 
two,  if  they  should  be  small,  place  in  a 
stewpan  two  dessert-spoonfuls  of  curry 
powder,  add  of  butter  two  ounces,  an 
onion  cut  in  very  fine  strips,  and  three 
large  spoonfuls  of  fish  stock.  When 
they  are  stewed  well,  add  the  lobster, 
simmer  gently  for  an  hour,  squeeze  in 
half  a  lemon,  season  with  a  little  salt. 
In  the  'eastern  method  the  expressed 
luice  of  spinach  is  usually  added.  This 
is  obtained  by  simply  putting  spinach, 
without  any  water,  into  a  saucepan,  and 
when  done  enough,  press  out  the  juice, 
and  add  it  with  butter,  cayenne,  and  salt, 
to  the  gravy.  Prawns  may  be  dressed 
in  this  fashionf 


203.— CROQUETTES  OF  LOBSTER. 
Take  the  meat  from  the  shell,  chop  it 
finely,  mix  it  with  a  little  salt,  pepper, 
and  pounded  mace ;  take  one-fourth  part 
of  fine  bread  crumbs,  make  it  up  into 
balls  with  melted  butter,  brush  the  balls 
with  yolk  of  egg,  and  dredge  them  with 
bread  crumbs^  and  fry  them,  serving  with 
or  without  gravy :  if  dry,  they  must  be 
sent  up  with  crisped  parsley. 


204.— GRATIN  OF  LOBSTER. 

Take  out  all  the  meat  from  a  large  lob- 
ster, then  wash  the  body,  tail,  and  shells 
if  the  lobster  is  first  cut  in  halves  down 
the  back ;  then  dry  and  butter  them,  and 
sprinkle  them  with  bread  crumbs,  chop 
up  the  meat  fine,  with  a  little  parsley 
and  shalot,  a  few  drops  of  essence  of  an- 
chovies, a  spoonful  of  vinegar,  cayenne 
pepper  and  salt,  a  little  bechamel  sauce, 
and  boil  all  well  together ;  then  add  a 
yolk  of  egg,  put  it  to  cool,  then  fill  your 
shells  or  paper  cases,  cover  it  with  bread 
crumbs  and  some  pieces  of  butter,  brown 
them  in  the  oven,  and  dish  on  a  napkin. 


205.— LOBSTER  SALAD. 

Extract  the  fish  from  the  shell,  place 
it  in  the  centre  of  the  dish  in  which  it  is 
to  be  served,  in  the  form  of  a  pyramid ; 
arrange  the  salad  round  tastefully,  and 
add  salad  mixture.  This  dish  is  not  in- 
frequently garnished  with  the  smallest 
claws  of  the  fish.  This  is  a  matter  of 
fancy — or  it  may  be  formed  into  a  heap, 
ornamented  with  the  claws  of  several 
lobsters.  The  first  row  is  formed  of  cut 
cucumbers,  the  second  of  eggs  boiled 
hard,  and  each  egg  split  into  four  pieces, 
and  the  points  laid  round  the  salad ;  the 
third  and  bottom  row  is  composed  of 
slices  of  beet-root  and  lobster. 

206.— LOBSTERS,  IN  AN  ITALIAN  SALAD. 

Take  two  lobsters,  cut  them  into  pieces 
by  taking  off  the  claws  and  tail,  each  of 
which  split  in  two ;  the  spawn  rub 
through  a  dry  sieve  to  garnish  the  salad, 
made  in  the  following  manner :  wash  two 
or  three  cabbage  lettuces,  cut  them  in 
large  shreds,  slice  a  beet-root  and  cucum- 
ber, wash,  pick,  and  cut  into  long  shreds 
four  anchovies,  chop  some  tan-agon  and 
chervil,  two  boiled  eggs,  the  yolks  and 
whites  chopped  separately ;  if  you  have 
any  cauliflowers  or  French  beans,  boil 
and  put  them  with  the  other  things  to 
garnish.  Having  every  thing  prepared, 
place  the  lettuce  in  the  centre  of  the 
dish  in  a  heap,  and  place  the  lobsters  and 
other  things  according  to  your  taste,  and 
just  before  you  serve  garnish  with  Ital- 
ian salad  sauce. 

207. -LOBSTER  SALAD.-<Soyer's.) 

Dress  a  border  of  hard-boiled  eggs,  as 
directed  in  salad  of  game,  fill  the  centre 
with  some  nice  fresh  salad,  then  take  the 
flesh  from  a  middling- sized  lobster,  which 
cut  into  as  large  slices  as  possible,  which 
put  into  a  basin,  and  season  with  a  little 
pepper,  salt,  oil,  and  vinegar,  after  which 
dress  them  pyramidically  upon  the  salad 


206 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


and  have  ready  the  following  sauce :  put 
the  yolks  of  two  fresh  eggs  in  a  basin, 
with  the  yolk  of  a  hard-boiled  one  rub- 
bed through  a  sieve ;  add  half  a  saltspoou- 
ful  of  salt,  and  half  that  quantity  of 
white  pepper,  and  commence  stirring 
round  with  a  wooden  spoon  with  the 
right  hand,  holding  a  bottle  of  salad  oil 
in  the  left,  dropping  it  in  by  degrees 
and  continually  stirring ;  when  becoming 
thickish  add  a  couple  of  spoonfuls  of 
common  vinegar  by  degrees,  still  keep- 
ing it  stirred,  then  more  oil,  proceeding 
thus  until  you  have  used  three  parts  of 
a  pint  of  oil,  and  a  corresponding  quan- 
tity of  vinegar ;  by  continually  working 
it  will  form  a  stiffish  cream-looking  sauce 
perfectly  smooth ;  add  a  little  more  sea- 
soning if  required,  and  a  teaspoonful  of 
chopped  parsley,  with  half  that  quantity 
of  chopped  eschalots ;  pour  over  the  lob- 
ster and  serve.  Should  the  sauce  curdle 
in  making,  the  operation  must  be  again 
performed,  putting  a  yolk  of  an  egg  into 
another  basin,  working  it  with  a  little 
oil  until  forming  a  stiffish  paste,  then 
stir  in  the  curdled  sauce  by  degrees  un- 
til the  whole  becomes  smooth ;  always 
choose  a  cool  place  to  make  it  in.  This 
requires  a  little  practice. 


208.— ANCHOVIES,  ESSENCE  OF. 
A  pound  of  the  best  anchovies,  two 
quarts  of  water,  two  bay-leaves,  some 
whole  pepper,  a  little  scraped  horse- 
radish, a  little  thyme,  two  blades  of 
mace,  six  shalots  chopped  small,  a  gill  of 
port  wine,  half  the  rind  of  a  lemon,  a 
gill  of  ketchup  ;  boil  them  together  for 
twenty  minutes,  then  rub  them  through 
a  tammy  with  a  wooden  spoon ;  when 
cold  put  it  into  pint  bottles,  cork  them 
close,  and  keep  them  in  a  dry  place. 

209.— TOAST  OF  ANCHOVIES. 

Prepare  toast;  fillet  some  anchovies, 


pound  them  in  a  mortar,  add  a  little  but- 
ter well  pomnded  into  it,  a  little  cayenne 
pepper,  a  few  drops  of  lemon-juice  ;  take 
it  out  and  spread  it  on  the  toast. 

210.— ANCHOVIES  WITH  FEIED  BEEAD. 

Cut  some  bread  thin,  then  cut  out  with 
a  plain  paste  cutter  the  quantity  you 
require,  as  you  will  put  one  on  the  other ; 
fry  them  in  lard  a  very  nice  brown,  then 
fillet  and  pound  anchovies  as  before ; 
add  a  little  parsley,  and  a  grain  of  shalot, 
rub  all  through  a  fine  wire  or  hair  sieve, 
spread  one  of  your  toasts  rather  thick, 
place  another  piece  of  bread  on  the  top  ; 
have  ready  some  more  filleted  ancho- 
vies, and  garnish  each  toast,  using 
pickles  likewise,  or  parsley. 


211.— TO  KNOW  GOOD  ANCHOVIES. 

The  best  look  red  and  mellow,  and  the 
bones  moist  and  oily,  the  flesh  high  fla- 
vored, and  a  fine  smell ;  if  the  liquor  and 
fish  become  dry,  add  to  it  a  little  beef 
brine. 

212.— CHOWDEE-A  SAILOE'S  DISH. 
Cut  salmon,  halibut,  or  any  rich 
fish,  into  steaks  an  inch  thick ;  season 
them  highly  with  pepper,  salt,  and  cay- 
enne; put  a  layer  of  sliced  potatoes 
(raw)  in  the  bottom  of  the  stewpan  ; 
then  a  layer  of  broken  cabin-biscuit; 
next  the  fish  ;  then  a  layer  of  thin  sliced 
ham.  Fill  the  stewpan  in  this  manner ; 
finish  with  a  large  piece  of  butter.  Add 
water  enough  to  moisten  the  whole; 
stew  slowly  two  hours,  never  stirring, 
but  occasionally  shaking  the  pan  to  pre- 
vent it  burning  to  the  bottom.  If  it 
gets  too  dry,  add  a  little  more  water. 

213.-CEAB, 

Though  not  so  well-known  as  the  lob- 
ster, is  looked  upon  by  many  as  being 
a  better-flavored  fish,  and  perhaps  rather 


SHELL-FISH. 


20T 


more  digestible.  The  female  is  consider- 
ed inferior  to  the  male,  and  maj  be  known 
by  the  claws  being  smaller,  and  the  tail 
much  wider.  The  heaviest  are  usually 
thought  to  be  the  best,  but  those  of  a 
middling  size  are  the  sweetest.  If  light, 
they  are  watery  ;  when  in  perfection,  the 
joints  of  the  legs  are  stiff,  and  the 
body  has  a  very  agreeable  smell.  The 
eyes  look  dead  and  loose  when  stale,  or 
when  the  fish  have  died  a  natural  death. 
They  are  boiled  in  the  same  manner  as 
lobster,  but  require  rather  longer  time, 
and  are  most  usually  eaten  cold  with  oil 
and  vinegar,  as  thus  : — Pick  out  all  the 
fish  from  the  shell,  divide  it  into  small 
pieces,  mixing  the  rich  part  well  with  the 
rest ;  moisten  it  with  salad  dressing,  and 
return  it  to  the  shell  with  an  edge  all 
round  with  sliced  lemon. 

If  hot,  pick  the  fish  out  as  above ;  then 
put  the  meat,  with  a  little  nutmeg,  salt, 
pepper,  bits  of  butter,  crumbs  of  bread, 
and  three  spoonfuls  of  vinegar,  into  the 
shell  again,  and  set  it  before  the  fire. 
You  may  brown  it  with  a  salamander, 
but  it  should  be  always  served  in  the 
shell.  Dry  toast  should  be  served  to  eat 
with  it.  Observe  to  remove  "  the  lady," 
as  it  is  called. 

214— TO  BOIL  CEABS. 

Having  boiled  them  twenty  minutes, 
wipe  them,  crack  the  claws,  rub  the  shells 
with  oil,  and  dish  them  as  lobster.  To 
cook  soft  crabs,  take  away  the  claws,  cut 
them  open,  and  remove  the  sand  bag  and 
spongy  part ;  then  put  some  butter  into  a 
frying-pan,  and  do  them  brown  on  both 
sides. 

215.— TO  STEW  CEABS. 

Pick  the  meat  carefully  out  of  a  large 
crab  and  its  claws ;  cut  into  small  pieces, 
mix  it  with  about  a  fourth  part  of  bread- 
crumbs, and  a  very  small  quantity  of 
finely  shred  parsley.  Season  it  well,  and 


return  it  to  the  shell  with  some  small 
bits  of  butter  here  and  there,  enough, 
when  warmed,  to  keep  it  moist.  Squeeze 
the  juice  of  a  lemon  over  it,  or  a  spoonful 
of  lemon-pickle  or  acid  sauce.  Put  a 
thick  layer  of  crumbs  of  bread  upon  the 
top  with  small  bits  of  butter  laid  all  over 
it,  and  bake  it  in  the  shell  before  the  fire, 
or  in  the  oven.  The  shell  of  one  crab 
will  contain  the  meat  of  two. 

Or : — Boil  them,  take  the  meat  out  of 
the  bodies  and  the  large  claws,  put  it  into 
a  stewpan  with  half  a  pint  of  claret,  a 
spoonful  of  eschalot-vinegar,  a  little  cay- 
enne, some  salt,  and  a  piece  of  butter : 
let  them  stew  for  an  hdur  over  a  gentle 
fire,  until  they  are  almost  dry.  Then 
add  a  small  quantity  of  fish-stock  or 
gravy,  a  table-spoonful  of  essence  of  an- 
chovy, and  a  small  piece  of  butter  rolled 
in  flour.  Serve  with  sippets  of  fried 
bread  round  the  dish. 

Another  way  is  to  put  the  meat  into  a 
stewpan  with  half  a  pint  of  white  wine, 
a  spoonful  of  eschalot  or  garlic  vinegar,  a 
little  parsley  and  thyme  minced  fine,  the 
yolks  of  three  eggs  boiled  hard  and 
minced  small,  and  some  salt  and  cayenne 
pepper.  Let  it  stew  gently  till  quite 
tender  and  almost  dry  ;  then  add  a 
piece  of  butter,  stir  it  about  for  a  few 
minutes  over  the  fire,  wash  the  shells, 
butter  them,  put  the  stewed  meat  into 
them,  and  serve  on  a  napkin. 

216.— SMALL  CEABS  AND  CEATFISH 
Are  made  sometimes  into  soup,  but 
more  commonly  plain,  boiled  for  about  a 
quarter  of  an  hour  and  eaten  cold.  In 
the  lower  parts  of  Germany  they  are 
eaten  hot,  with  rye-bread  and  butter, 
and  are  there  a  favorite  supper  dish  in 
the  heat  of  summer. 

21T.-TO  STEW  CEAYFISH. 
Boil  them  in  salt  and  water,  pick  the 
meat  out  of  the  tails  and  claws,  put  them 


208 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


into  a  stewpan  with  a  little  butter,  some 
mushrooms,  and  truffles;  moisten  them 
with  a  little  fish-stock,  and  simmer  a 
short  time  over  a  gentle  fire.  When 
nearly  done,  beat  the  yolks  of  two  or 
three  eggs  with  a  teacupful  of  cream  and 
a  little  chopped  parsley ;  let  all  stew  to- 
gether for  a  few  minutes,  stirring  it  all 
the  time,  and  serve  up  in  a  deep  dish. 

218.-SOFT  SHELLED  CEABS. 

Fry  the  crabs  in  lard,  having  taken  off 
the  spongy  substance,  and  the  sand  bag. 
Crisp  parsley  in  the  fat  after  they  come 
out,  and  add  pepper  and  salt  and  rich 
milk,  for  the  gravy. 

219.— TEEEAPINS. 

Put  them  in  boiling  water  to  kill 
them ;  then  skin  them  and  take  off  the 
nails,  wash  and  put  them  on  again  to 
boil,  adding  a  teaspoon 'of  salt  to  every 
two.  "When  tender,  remove  the  shells, 
sand  bags,  and  gall,  carefully ;  cut  up  the 
meat,  season  it  with  pepper,  mace,  and 
nutmeg,  and  put  it  in  a  stewpan  with 
the  juice  that  has  come  out,  and  for 
every  two  terrapins,  four  ounces  of 
butter  in  flour,  a  glass  of  white  wine  and 
the  yolks  of  two  eggs  beaten.  The  wine 
and  eggs  to  be  added  after  the  whole  is 
stewed  perfectly  tender. 

220.— CEABS  MINCED. 

Remove  the  meat,  mince  small  and 
place  in  a  saucepan  with  a  wineglassful 
of  white  wine,  pepper  and  salt,  nutmeg, 
cayenne  pepper,  and  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  vinegar.  Let  it  stew  for  ten  minutes ; 
melt  a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of  a  hen's 
egg,  with  an  anchovy  and  the  yolks  of 
two  eggs  ;  beat  up  and  mix  well,  stir  in 
with  the  crab,  and  add  sufficient  stale 
bread-crumbs  to  thicken.  Garnish  with 
thin  toast  cut  with  a  pastry  leaf-cutter,  or 
with  the  claws,  and  parsley.  Lobster 
may  be  dressed  in  the  same  manner. 


221.— CEAYFISH  BUTTEE. 

Take  tfce  shells  of  twenty-four  cray- 
fish, clean  them  well  from  skin  and 
fibre,  put  them  into  an  oven  to  dry,  with- 
out burning  or  browning,  until  they  can 
be  beaten  to  a  fine  powder;  mix  the 
powder  very  well  with  three  ounces  of 
fresh  butter,  then  put  it  into  a  stewpan 
with  a  spoonful  of  hot  water,  mixing  it 
well  together;  then  squeeze  the  whola 
through  a  tamis  over  a  stewpan  of  boil- 
ing water ;  skim  and  butter  off  into  a 
basin  of  cold  water,  that  it  may  set; 
when  cold  press  it  in  a  napkin. 

It  forms  a  beautiful  coloring  addition 
to  many  kinds  of  dishes,  fish  especially, 
and,  when  mixed  with  the  meat  pounded 
after  being  taken  from  the  shells,  makes 
fine  sauce". 

222.— OTSTEES 

Depend  very  much  for  goodness  upon 
the  beds  from  which  they  have  been 
taken.  There  are  several  kinds. 

They  all  come  into  season,  according 
to  an  old  saying,  "  so  long  as  there  is  an 
R  in  the  month."  They  are,  however, 
not  perfectly  good  until  the  beginning  of 
October,  and  should  go  out  at  the  end  of 
March. 

When  the  fish  is  alive  and  strong,  the 
shell  closes  on  the  knife.  They  should 
be  eaten  as  opened,  the  flavor  becoming 
poor  if  long  exposed  to  the  air. 

223.-TO  SCALLOP  OYSTEES. 

Take  twelve  of  the  smaller  sort,  beard 
them,  cut  out  the  hard  part  which  ad- 
heres to  their  shells,  and  leave  them  in 
their  liquor ;  have  ready  a  quantity  of 
crumbs  of  fresh  bread,  not  too  finely 
grated,  and  mixed  with  a  little  pepper 
and  salt;  then  grease  a  scallop-shell, 
strew  upon  it  some  of  the  crumbs  with 
bits  of  butter,  and  lay  upon  them  a  layer 
of  the  oysters ;  then  crumbs,  bits  of 
butter,  and  oysters,  layer  upon  layer, 


SHELL-FIEH. 


209 


until  the  shell  is  filled  up  ;  cover  it  with 
a  thick  coating  of  the  crumbs  well  but- 
tered, and  brown  it  in  a  Dutch  oven.  A 
dozen  oysters,  with  a  proper  quantity  of 
crumbs,  will  fill  up  the  largest  scallop- 
shell,  and  take  an  hour  to  be  thoroughly 
done. 

Some  cooks  scald  the  oysters  for  five 
minutes,  in  their  own  liquor,  and  mix 
with  them  minced  shalot,  or  chives,  and 
pot-herbs  ;  but  these,  although  they  may 
please  an  epicurean  palate,  will  destroy 
the  natural  flavor  of  the  oyster. 

224.— TO  SCALLOP  OYSTEES. 

For  one  hundred  oysters,  take  four 
eggs,  boiled  hard,  and  chopped  very  fine  ; 
mix  them  with  a  sixpenny  loaf  crumbled 
or  grated,  and  add  pepper  and  salt  to 
taste.  Put  some  of  the  mixture  in  the 
bottom  of  a  pie  dish,  and  lay  on  it  light- 
ly a  layer  of  oysters,  previously  rinsed 
and  drained  j  add  a  few  bits  of  butter, 
then  cover  the  oysters  with  a  layer  of 
bread-crumbs  and  eggs;  another  layer 
of  oysters,  and  so  on ;  covering  the  top 
with  bread-crumbs.  Bake  it  three-quar- 
ters of  an  hour. 

225.— TO  MAKE  OYSTEE  FEITTEES. 
Make  a  batter  with  milk,  flour,  and 
eggs,  beaten  light.  Have  some  lard  quite 
hot ;  dip  out  a  tablespoonful  of  the  bat- 
ter, put  an  oyster  into  it,  and  let  it  down 
into  the  boiling  lard  carefully  and  fry  it 
on  both  sides*.  This  is  a  better  plan  than 
mixing  the  oysters  and  batter  together. 

226.— TO  BEOIL  OYSTEES. 

Take  them  from  the  shells,  bearc 
them,  and  put  them  with  their  liquor 
into  tin  shapes  made  to  imitate  scallops, 
six  in  a  shell  (not  more),  with  a  little 
pepper  and  butter.  Put  the  shells  upon 
a  gridiron  over  a  good  fire,  and  serve 
them  when  plump  and  quite  hgt.  They 
are  delicious  this  way ;  but  to  be  eaten 
in  perfection  should  be  cooked  in  the 


room  where  they  are  eaten.    Squeeze  a 
ittle  lemon-juice  over  them  when  they 

come  from  the  fire. 

Or : — They  may  be  put  singly  in  their 

under  shells  along  with  their  own  liq^pr,  a 
ittle  minced  parsley  and  spice,  and  a  bit 

of  butter,  and  thus  put  upon  the  gridiron, 

to  be  taken  off  when  thoroughly  heated. 

22T.— WITH  WHITE  SAUCE. 

Beard  the  oysters,  wash  them  in  their 
own  liquor,  then  strain  it,  thicken  it  with 
melted  butter,  or  white  sauce  made  of 
cream,  not  milk,  and  flour ;  season  it  with 
a  blade  of  mace  and  a  few  whole  pepper- 
corns tied  in  a  muslin  bag.  Simmer  the 
oysters  very  gently,  and  serve  up  with 
sippets  of  bread :  they  will  require  only 
a  few  minutes,  and  if  allowed  to  boil  will 
become  hard. 

223.— WITH  BROWN  SAUCE. 

Wash  the  oysters  in  their  liquor,  and 
then  strain  it,  add  a  glass  of  wine,  two 
spoonfuls  of  beef-gravy,  some  whole  pep- 
per, a  little  salt,  a  piece  of  butter,  and  a 
spoonful  of  lemon-juice ;  boil  the  whole, 
stirring  it  until  it  is  smooth,  then  put  in 
the  oysters,  and  warm  or  plump  them  up 
without  boiling. 

229.— OYSTEE  EOLLS. 
Take  about  a  quart  of  the  largest  and 
finest  oysters  you  can  procure,  stew 
them  in  their  own  liquor  with  some  pep- 
per, a  very  little  mace,  and  some  green 
onion  chopped  fine,  thicken  them  with  a 
little  butter  and  a  dust  of  flour  when 
nearly  done  enough.  Take  two  French 
rolls  of  the  square  sort  baked  in  tins, 
cut  a  piece  off  the  top,  and  scoop  out  the 
greater  part  of  the  crumb,  fill  your  roll 
with  the  oysters  and  the  liquor,  and  set 
them  near  the  fire  on  a  chafing-dish  fill- 
ed with  hot  coals ;  as  the  liquor  soaks  in 
fill  them  with  more,  or  if  you  have  not 
any  left,  add  a  little  good  gravy  boiling- 
hot. 


210 


THE    PRACTICAL    HOUSEKEEPER. 


Or  :—Let  them  first  soak  ;  then  fasten 
in  the  top,  cover  the  entire  of  the  roll  in 
batter,  and  bake  it  in  the  Dutch  oven  till 
well  browned. 

Or  .-—Mince  the  oysters,  season  them 
only  with  mace  and  nutmeg,  and  fill  the 
rolls  up  with  cream  or  rich  white  sauce, 
and  bake  them  as  above:  even  one  large 
roll  will  make  a  nice  little  dish,  and  is 
better  than  the  smaller  sort. 

280.-OYSTEE  SAUSAGES 

May  also  be  made  of  the  larger  kind, 
bearded  and  minced  small,  together  with 
a  moderate  quantity  of  beef  suet  and 
bread-crumbs,  to  which  should  be  added 
a  forcemeat  of  pounded  pork  or  veal, 
seasoned  with  spice  and  put  into  the 
usual  skins.  If  well  seasoned,  they  will 
keep  good  for  a  full  week :  one  pound  of 
beef  suet  shred  fine,  and  the  same  quan- 
tity of  forcemeat,  with  bread-crumbs, 
should  be  put  to  each  pint  of  oysters. 

Or : — Take  one-half  pound  of  lean 
beef  or  mutton,  three-quarters  pound 
of  beef  suet,  two  score  of  oysters  beard- 
ed and  scalded  in  their  own  liquor,  then 
dried  and  all  chopped  together,  adding 
bread-crumbs  and  yolks  of  eggs  to  bind 
the  materials.  Season  well  with  salt, 
white  pepper,  mace,  and  a  grate  of  nut- 
meg ;  or  if  you  wish  to  make  it  very 
savory,  leave  out  the  mace  and  nutmeg, 
but  add  a  little  cayenne,  with  a  minced 
shalot  and  a  spoonful  of  garlic-vinegar. 
They  may  be  either  made  as  sausages,  or 
fried  into  shapes  in  the  usual  way. 

281.— OYSTERS  A  I/IMPERIALS. 

Procure,  quite  fresh,  a  barrel  of  oys- 
ters, packed  as  for  transmission  to 
the  country.  Put  into  a  vessel  large 
enough  to  contain  the  barrel  sufficient 
water,  that  when  the  barrel  is  in,  it  may 
be  covered.  Heat  the  water  to  a  boil ; 
when  it  is  boiling,  put  in  the  barrel  of 
oysters  just  as  you  have  received  it  from 


the  oysterseller ;  let  it  boil  twelve  min- 
utes ;  take  it  out,  knock  off  the  head, 
and  serve  immediately.  The  flavor  of 
the  hot  oyster  will  be  found  delicious. 

282.— OYSTER  CURRY. 

Blanch  and  beard  six.  dozen  oys- 
ters, leaving  them  in  their  own  liquor ; 
then  cut  two  middling-sized  onions 
into  small  dice,  and  saute  them  in  a 
stewpan,  with  an  ounce  of  butter  ;  when 
done,  mix  in  two  teaspoonfuls  of  curry 
powder  and  one  of  curry  paste,  and  pass 
all  through  a  tammy — it  ought  to  be 
thick ;  then  add  the  oysters  with  their 
liquor,  and  keep  stirring  over  the  fire 
until  the  oysters  become  enveloped  in  a 
thick  sauce,  which  they  should  be  in  two 
minutes,  when  turn  them  out  upon  your 
dish,  and  serve  with  rice  separately. 

283.— ROAST  OYSTERS. 

Large  oysters  not  opened,  a  few  min- 
utes before  they  are  wanted,  put  on  a 
gridiron  over  a  moderate  fire.  When 
Hone  they  will  open;  do  not  lose  the 
liquor  that  is  in  the  shell  with  the  oys- 
ter ;  send  them  hot  upon  a  napkin. 

234— AN  OYSTER  PIE,  WITH  SWEET- 
BREADS. 

Blanch  them  and  take  off  the  beards, 
separate  them  from  the  liquor,  blanch 
some  throat  sweetbread.8,  and  when  cold 
cut  them  in  slices,  then  lay  them  and  the 
oysters  in  layers  in  your  -dish,  season 
with  salt,  pepper,  a  few  grains  of  mace 
and  nutmeg;  add  some  thick  sauce,  a 
little  cream,  and  the  oyster  liquor,  and 
some  good  veal  stock ;  bake  in  a  slow 
oven. 

235.— BREADED  OYSTERS. 

Scoop  out  the  crumb' from  a  small  loaf, 
or  some  small  rolls  of  bread,  and  put 
into  the  cavity  oysters  stewed  with  but- 
ter and  mace,  and  a  little  of  their  liquor, 
with  two  or  three  spoonfuls  of  rich  milk 


SHELL-FISH. 


added  as  they  are  done.  Put  on  the  top 
of  the  rolls,  the  pieces  sliced  off;  set 
them  in  the  oven  a  few  minutes,  and 
serve  on  a  dish,  hot. 


Stewpan. 


236.— STEWED  OYSTEES. 

The  oysters  should  be  bearded  and 
rinsed  in  their  own  liquor,  which  should 
then  be  strained  and  thickened  with 
flour  and  butter,  and  placed  with  the 
oysters  in  a  stewpan ;  add  mace,  lemon- 
peel  cut  into  threads,  some  white  pepper 
whole ;  these  ingredients  had  better  be 
confined  in  a  piece  of  muslin.  The  stew 
must  simmer  only ;  if  it  is  suffered  to 
boil,  the  oysters  will  become  hard ;  serve 
with  sippets  of  bread.  This  may  be 
varied  by  adding,  a  glass  of  wine  to  the 
liquor,  before  the  oysters  are  put  in  and 
warmed. 

23T.— SCALLOPED  OYSTEES. 

Beard  the  oysters,  wash  in  their  own 
liquor,  steep  bread-crumbs  in  the  latter, 
put  them  with  the  oysters  into  scallop 
shells,  with  a  bit  of  butter  and  season- 
ing of  salt,  pepper,  and  a  little  grated 
nutmeg ;  make  a  paste  of  bread-crumbs 
and  butter;  cover,  and  roast  them  be- 
fore the  fire,  or  in  an  oven. 


238.— PICKLED  OYSTEES  IN  THE  FEENCH 
WAY.— (A  supper  dish.) 

Take  four  dozen  oysters,  strain  the 
liquor,  add  six  blades  of  mace,  twelve 
peppercorns,  a  little  grated  lemon-peel 
and  two  or  three  bay-leaves.  Put  the 
liquor  to  boil ;  when  boiling,  add  the 
oysters  for  two  minutes.  (Some  per- 
sons put  half  vinegar,  half  liquor.] 


When  cold,  strain  off  the  liquor.  Place 
he  oysters  in  a  small  dish,  and  garnish 
vith  parsley. 

289.— PICKLED  OYSTEES. 
(By  a  Lady  of  New  York.) 

Scald  the  oysters  in  their  liquor,  or  in 
water  with  a  little  salt ;  take  them  out 
with  a  skimmer,  and  throw  them  into 
cold  water.  Take  whole  allspice,  black 
)epper  and  mace,  and  boil  it  up  in  the 
iquor  in  which  the  oysters  were  boiled ; 
when  it  tastes  enough  of  the  spices  take 
t  off.  Let  the  oysters  drain  on  a  sieve. 
When  the  liquor  is  cold  add  vinegar  to 
taste,  and  then  put  in  the  oysters. 

240.— TO  DEESS  COLD  FISH. 

Dip  a  flat  dish  in  hot  water,  to  prevent 
cracking;  smear  it  with  butter,  and 
sprinkle  white  pepper  on  it ;  then  a 
thick  layer  of  stale  bread,  grated  fine ; 
a  layer  of  the  fish,  picked  from  bones, 
and  broken  small ;  a  little  melted  butter 
— prepared  without  milk — poured  over 
another  layer  of  bread — then  of  fish, 
with  butter  as  before ;  repeated  as  often 
as  required  for  quantity  of  fish,  and  size 
of  dish.  Smooth  the  surface  with  a 
spoon,  and  sprinkle  slightly  fine  bread, 
mixed  with  white  pepper  on  the  top. 
Place  it  for  twenty  or  thirty  minutes, 
according  to  thickness,  before  a  brisk 
fire,  with  a  tin  shade  at  back  of  dish, 
to  reflect  the  heat.  Cold  washed  mut- 
ton may  be  redressed  the  same  way ; 
first  wiping  the  meat,  quite  free  from 
gravy,  in  a  napkin. 


Is 


Fish  Scissors,  to  trim  pan-fish  for  frying. 
241.— CASSEEOLE  OF  FISH 

a  title  given,   among   others, 


by 


212 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


French  cooks,  to  " poisson  recliauffe" 
or  fish  which  has  been  left  after  being 
dressed,  and  is  meant  to  be  re-heated. 
There  are  almost  as  many  modes  of 
doing,  this,  as  of  originally  dressing  the 
various  sorts ;  but  we  here  only  retain 
a  few  of  the  most  simple : — 

Take  any  kind  of  cold  fish,  and  divide 
it  into  large  flakes ;  boil  two  or  three 
eggs  hard,  and  cut  them  into  slices; 
have  also  some  mashed  potatoes ;  butter 
a  mould,  and  put  in  the  fish,  eggs,  and 
potatoes,  with  a  little  delicate  seasoning 
of  white  pepper ;  moisten  the  whole  with 
cream,  or  thin  melted  butter,  and  a  spqon- 
ful  of  essence  of  anchovies ;  boil  the 
mould  and  turn  it  out. 

Or: — Take  some  fish  which  has  been 
dressed,  and  rub  it  througn  a  sieve  ;  to 
half  a  pound  of  fish  allow  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  bread-crumbs,  two  eggs  well 
beaten,  one  tablespoonful  of  essence  of  an- 
chovies, one  of  Harvey  sauce,  and  a  little 
salt  and  cayenne  pepper ;  mix  all  well  to- 
gether, and  put  it  into  a  mould ;  let  it  boil 
half  an  hour,  and  serve  it  with  a  good 
fish- sauce  in  the  dish. 

Or : — Take  half  a  pint  of  good  gravy, 
with  a  couple  of  glasses  of  wine,  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  anchovy  liquor,  and 
two  of  vinegar,  seasoned  high  with  cay- 
enne, mustard,  salt,  and  shalot;  mince 
the  fish,  but  do  not  put  it  in  the  mortar, 
and  either  warm  it  as  a  fricassee,  and 
bring  it  up  in  a  dish  with  sippets  j  or, 
put  it  into  a  form,  piled  up  high  in  the 
centre,  cover  it  with  bread-crumbs  and 
bits  of  butter,  and  brown  it  with  a  sala- 
mander. 


242.— FISH  TURTLE.  (English.) 

For  this  imitation,  sturgeon  is  the 
best  material,  but,  if  not  in  season,  cut 
some  ling  into  handsome  pieces,  and  fry 
it ;  then  boil  an  equal  quantity  of  skate, 
also  cut  in  pieces  j  and  having  cleaned 


and  soaked  two  or  three  cod-sounds, 
stew  them  until  green,  with  a  little 
spinach,  and  cut  them  into  pieces  ;  then 
have  a  sufficient  quantity  of  good  gravy, 
into  which  the  liquor  of  two  or  three 
dozen  of  oysters  has  been  strained ;  thick- 
en it  with  cream  or  butter ;  put  it  into 
a  stewpan  with  the  fish  already  named,  a 
lobster  cut  in  pieces,  a  spoonful  of  es- 
sence of  anchovies,  and  a  glass  of  Madeira. 
Warm  the  whole  together,  and  send  it  to 
table  with  a  lemon  garnish.  The  sauce 
to  this  dish  must  be  very  rich,  and  of  a 
fine  dark  color. 


243.— FISH 

This  is  a  pretty  mode  of  enclosing  a 
fricassee  of  fish  with  a  potato  wall  with- 
out a  crust  of  pastry.  Mash  in  a  mortar 
as  many  potatoes  as  you  may  want,  with 
a  good  piece  of  butter ;  then,  with  the 
bowls  of  two  silver  spoons,  raise  a  wall 
of  it  two  and  a  half  inches  high  within  the 
rim  of  the  dish  to  be  used.  Let  the 
upper  part  be  a  little  thinner  than  the 
lower;  smooth  it;  and,  after  brushing 
it  all  over  with  egg,  put  it  into  the  oven 
to  become  hot,  and  a  little  colored.  Be- 
fore egging  it,  the  outside  may  be  orna- 
mented with  flowers,  leaves,  &c.,  by  the 
small  tin  shapes  used  to  cut'  paste. 

Beat  the  whole  of  a  crab  picked  clean 
from  the  shell  in  a  marble  mortar,  with 
white  pepper  and  salt,  nutmeg,  and  a 
very  few  crumbs  of  bread ;  warm  it  with 
a  little  gravy  thickened  with  cream  or 
butter  and  a  spoonful  of  wine,  and,  when 
thoroughly  warmed,  add  a  little  lemon- 
juice.  Pour  it  into  potato  walls  pre- 
viously baked,  but  not  covered  like  a 
pie,  and  serve  it  up  hot,  either  browning 
it  with  the  salamander,  or  covering  the 
top  with  fancifully  arranged  small  claws. 

244— FISH  CAKE. 

Cut  the  meat  from    the  bones,  put 


DKESSED   FISH. 


213 


them,  the  head  and  fins,  over  the  fire  to 
stew  for  gravy,  with  a  pint  of  water,  an 
onion,  herbs,  popper,  and  salt.  Mince 
the  meat,  put  to  it  one-third  part  of 
crumbs  of  bread,  a  little  minced  onion, 
parsley,  pepper,  salt,  and  a  very  small  bit 
of  mace  ;  mix  well,  and  make  it  into  a 
cake  with  white  of  egg  and  a  little  melt- 
ed butter ;  cover  it  with  raspings,  and  fry 
it  a  pale  brown,  keeping  a  plate  on  the 
top  while  doing.  Then  lay  it  in  a  stew- 
pan,  with  the  fish  gravy,  and  stew  it 
gently  a  quarter  of  an  hour  ;  turn  it  twice, 
but  with  great  care  not  to  break  it :  cover 
it  closely  while  stewing. 

Cake  of  dressed  meat,  done  in  the  same 
way,  is  remarkably  good. 


245.— FISH-CUTLETS. 

Chop  a  considerable  quantity  of  herbs 
with  a  small  piece  of  shalot,  season  it 
with  pepper  and  salt,  and  put  it  into  a 
stewpan  with  two  ounces  of  butter ;  as 
the  butter  is  melting  add  a  teaspoonful 
of  essence  of  anchovies.  Do  not  allow 
the  butter  to  more  than  melt,  and  mix 
the  whole  well  together ;  then  cut  any 
kind  of  white  fish,  dressed  or  raw,  into 
handsome  cutlets,  and,  when  the  herb 
seasoning  is  nearly  cold,  spread  it  on  the 
fish  thickly  with  a  knife;  dredge  the 
fish  with  bread-crumbs,  and  cook  them 
on  buttered  pans  in  an  oven,  or  before  the 
fire.  Stew  a  few  silver  button-onions, 
or  a  chopped  onion,  with  any  green  vege- 
tables in  season,  cut  it  into  dice  in  a  little 
broth,  add  nasturtiums  and  a  little  of  the 
pickle;  keep  them  in  the  middle  of  a 
dish,  and  lay  the  cutlets  round. 

Or : — Take  any  fish  previously  dress- 
ed, pull  it  in  pieces,  and  mix  it  with  a 
little  good  stock,  and  any  fish  sauce 
which  may  have  been  left  from  table ; 
spread  it  on  a  flat  dish,  brush  it  with  egg 
and  sprinkle  thick  with  bread-crumbs, 
cut  it  out  in  cutlets,  and  fry  brown. 


246.— KEDGEREE  FOE  BEEAKFAST. 

Boil  two  tablospoonfnls  of  rice,  add  any 
fish  previously  cooked  (salmon  or  turbot 
is  preferable),  and  nicely  picked ;  beat 
up  an  egg  well,  and  stir  it  in  just  before 
serving.  The  egg  must  not  boil. 

247.— FEICANDELLES  OF  FISH. 

Take  any  quantity  that,  may  be  con- 
venient of  either  dressed  or  undressed 
fish  of  firm  quality ;  skin  and  bone  it ; 
mince  it  of  the  size  of  dice,  with  a  few 
anchovies,  say  two  to  each  pound,  sea- 
soned with  mace,  cayenne,  and  a  grating 
of  nutmeg ;  soak  the  crumb  of  a  French 
roll,  one  to  each  pound,  in  milk,  and 
beat  it  up  with  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  to 
each  roll,  so  as  to  make  it  into  a  puree, 
and  put  the  fish  into  it ;  warm  the  whole 
gently,  and  add  to  it  a  moderate  quan- 
tity of  cream. 

Put  the  fish  thus  prepared  into  a  but- 
tered mould,  cover  it  thickly  with  bread- 
crumbs, and  either  bake  it  in  a  Dutch 
oven,  or  warm  it  before  the  fire,  and 
brown  it  with  the  salamander. 

A  few  o}*sters  are  an  excellent  addi- 
tion ;  and  if  wine  be  employed  instead  of 
milk,  the  dish  may  be  dressed  in  the  same 
manner,  but  rather  more  highly  sea- 
soned. 

248.— A  MATELOTE  OF  FISH.  (English.) 
Take  carp  or  tench,  or  both,  together 
with  an  eel  and  any  small  fish ;  cut  them 
into  pieces,  and  put  them  along  with  a 
quantity  of  button-onions  into  a  stewpan 
containing  just  wine  or  gravy  enough  of 
any  sort  to  cover  them,  and  let  them 
stew  very  gently  until  nearly  done  ;  then 
have  ready  a  couple  of  minced  truffles 
and  a  good  handful  of  shrimps  to  mix 
into  the  sauce,  which  may  be  made  of 
either  white  or  red  wine ;  the  red  may 
be  made  the  more  savory,  but  the  white 
wine  will  be  found  the  most  delicate  :  it 
should  be  thickened  with  yolk  of  egg? 


214 


THE   PRACTICAL    HOUSEKEEPER. 


and  the  dish  garnished  with  sippets  of 
fried  bread. 

249.— KAGOUT  OF  FISH. 

Take  carp,  perch,  pike,  and  eels ;  clean 
and  scale  them  well,  and  cut  them  into 
pieces  for  serving;  put  in  your  stew- 
pan  a  good-sized  piece  of  butter,  let  it 
fry  to  a  pale  brown,  fry  some  flour  in  it, 
and  add  a  quart  or  two  of  good  bouillon 
with  a  glass  or  two  of  red  wine,  and  a 
few  cloves  and  onions.  When  boiling 
put  your  ragout  into  it,  let  it  well  boil, 
and  add  some  lemon-juice  before  serving 
it  up. 

250.— A  VOL-AU-VENT 

Of  fish,  of  any  sort,  is  an  elegant  side- 
dish  when  prepared  either  with  meat 
gravy  or  made  up  maigre. 

Muscles  also  make  an  excellent  wl~ 
au-vent. 


251.— STEWED  FISH,    HEBREW  FASHION. 

Take  three  or  four  parsley-roots,  cut 
them  into  long  thin  slices,  and  two  or 
three  onions  also  sliced,  boil  them  to- 
gether in  a  quart  of  water  until  quite 
tender ;  then  flavor  it  with  ground  white 
pepper,  nutmeg,  mace,  and  a  little  saffron, 
the  juice  of  two  lemons,  and  a  spoonful 
of  vinegar.  Put  in  the  fish,  and  let  it 
stew  for  twenty,  or  thirty  minutes  ;  then 
take  it  out,  strain  the  gravy,  thicken  it 
with  a  little  flour  and  butter,  have  balls 
made  of  chopped  fish,  bread-crumbs, 
spices,  and  the  yolk  of  one  or  two  eggs 
mixed  up  together,  and  drop  them  into 
the  liquor.  Let  them  boil,  then  put  in 
the  fish,  and  serve  it  up  with  the  balls 
%nd  parsley-roots. 


252.-SAUCES  FOR  FISH. 
The  stock  for  fish  sauces  should  be 
made  of  the  water  in  which  fish  has  been 
boiled,  adding  the  bones;  fins,  &c.,-all  well 


stewed  down ;  when  fish  is  filleted,  the 
bones  should  always  be  employed  in  this 
way :  Stew  them  with  an  onion  and  a 
little  white  pepper;  strain  the  broth, 
which  will  be  very  rich,  thicken  it  with 
cream,  butter,  and  flour,  or  roux.  and  add 
whatever  the  sauce  is  to  be  made  of.  The 
following  may  be  generally  used,  accord- 
ing to  fancy,  for  nearly  every  species  of 
fish: 

253.— HOESEEADISH  SAUCE. 

Stew  an  onion  in  a  little  fish-stock  un- 
til it  will  pulp  ;  add  a  teaspoonful  of 
grated  horseradish,  and  one  or  two  spoon- 
fuls of  essence  of  anchovies.  Beat  all  to- 
gether over  a  fire,  thicken  it  with  a  little 
butter,  and  finish  with  a  spoonful  of  lem- 
on pickle  or  lemon. juice.  Vinegar  may 
be  substituted,  in  which  case  it  must  be 
mixed  with  the  horseradish,  and  boiled 
with  it ;  while  the  lemon,  or  lemon  pic- 
kle, being  of  a  more  delicate  flavor,  should 
only  be  warmed. 

Or : — Scrape  the  horseradish  thin  and 
chop  it  small,  or  grate  it.  which  is  better ; 
warm  it  in  melted  butter,  adding  a  spoon- 
ful of  mushroom  ketchup,  and  one  of  wal- 
nut, or  the  vinegar  from  walnut-pickle. 

254.— FOE  ALL  SOETS  OF  FISH. 
t 

Take  a  spoonful  of  vinegar,  one  of  In- 
dian soy,  the  same  of  mushroom  ketchup 
aud  Harvey's  sauce,  with  a  little  cayenne. 
Add  three  large  spoonfuls  of  melted  but- 
ter; stir  all  well,  and  heat  it  over  the 
fire. 

Or: — Put  equal  quantities  of  water 
and  vinegar  into  a  saucepan,  and  thicken 
it  with  the  yolk  of  an  egg  to  every  four 
spoonfuls  of  the  water  and  vinegar.  Make 
it  quite  hot,  but  do  not  boil  it ;  stir  it  or 
shake  the  pan  all  the  time ;  season  it  to 
your  liking,  and  add  a  spoonful  of  the 
liquid  to  every  three  of  melted  butter. 

255.— WHITE  SAUCE. 

Haifa  pint  of  cream}  two  tablespoonfuls 


SAUCES   FOR  FISH. 


215 


of  mushroom  ketchup ;  one  of  essence  of 
anchovy,  with  a  little  cayenne  pepper, 
and  an  ounce  or  two  of  butter  rolled  in 
flour  ;  boil  all  together  for  five  minutes. 

256.— BEOWN  SAUCE. 
Fry  an  onion  in  butter  and  flour  until 
it  becomes  brown ;  then  simmer  it  in  a 
glass  of  port  wine,  with  a  tablespoonful 
of  soy  and  walnut  ketchup,  seasoned  with 
salt  and  cayene  ;  strain  it,  and  thicken  it 
with  the  necessary  quantity  of  melted 
butter. 

257.— ANCHOVY  SAUCE. 
To  about  half  a  pint  of  melted  butter 
put  two  tablespoonfuls  of  good  essence  of 
anchovies,  with  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon. 
Serve  very  hot. 

258.— FENNEL  SAUCE. 
This  is  a  sauce  principally  used  for 
boiled  mackerel.  Make  the  same  quan- 
tity of  melted  butter  as  in  the  last,  to 
which  add  a  good  tablespoonful  of 
chopped  fennel ;  it  is  usually  served  in  a 
boat. 

259.— BUTTER  OF  ANCHOVIES. 
To  make  this  butter  you  must  have 
young  anchovies.  Take  them  out  of  the 
pickle  and  wash  them  well.  Take  off  the 
bones  and  head,  and  then  pound  them  in 
a  mortar  with  fresh  butter,  till  very  fine  J 
rub  this  through  a  hair  sieve.  Put  this 
butter  when  made,  into  a  pot  well  cover- 
ed, to  use  when  wanted;  observe,  how- 
ever, that  it  soon  becomes  rank. 

260.— EGG  SAUCE 
Is  generally  served  with  salt  fish  or 
haddock.  Boil  six  eggs  ten  minutes ;  let 
them  get  cold ;  then  cut  them  in  pieces 
about  the  size  of  dice ;  put  them  into  a 
stewpan  with  three  parts  of  a  pint  of 
melted  or  drawn  butter;  add  an  ounce 
more  fresh  butter,  with  a  little  pepper  anc 


salt ;  keep  the  stewpan  moving  round  over* 
foe  fire  until  the  whole  is  very  hot,  and 
serve  in  a  boat. 

261.-CAPEE  SAUCE  FOE  FISH. 
Take  some  melted  butter,  into  which 
throw  a  small  bit  of  glaze,  and  when  the 
sauce  is  in  a  state  of  readiness  throw  into 
t  some  choice  capers,  salt  and  pepper, 
and  a  spoonful  of  essence  of  anchovies. 

262.— NEW  LOBSTEE  SAUCE. 

If  you  use  the  'Solid  flesh  for  salad, 
pound  the  soft  part  and  shell  together  (in 
a  mortar)  very  fine,  which  put  into  a 
stewpan,  covered  with  a  pint  of  boiling 
water ;  place  it  over  the  fire  to  simmer 
for  ten  minutes,  then  pass  the  liquor 
through  a  hair  sieve  into  a  basin;  put 
three  ounces  of  butter  into  a  stewpan. 
into  which  rub  (cold)  a  good  tablespoon- 
ful of  flour,  add  the  liquor  from  the  lob- 
ster, place  it  upon  the  fire,  stirring  until 
the  point  of  boiling ;  season  with  a  little 
cayenne,  and  add  a  piece  of  anchovy  but- 
ter, the  size  of  a  walnut ;  or,  if  any  red 
spawn  is  in  the  lobster,  mix  it  with  butter, 
as  in  the  last,  and  add  it,  with  the  juice 
of  hah0"  a  lemon,  just  before  serving.  An 
anchovy  pounded  with  the  lobster-shells 
would  be  an  improvement,  and  part  of 
the  flesh  of  the  lobster  might  be  served 
in  the  sauce. 

263.— LOBSTEE  SAUCE  1  LA  CEEME. 

Cut  a  small  lobster  into  slices  the  size 
of  half-crown  pieces,  which  put  into  a 
stewpan ;  pound  the  soft  and  white  parts 
with  an  ounce  of  butter,  and  rub  it 
through  a  sieve  ;  pour  ten  spoonfuls  of 
melted  butter,  and  two  of  cream,  over 
the  slices  in  the  stewpan,  add  half  a 
blade  of  mace,  a  saltspoonful  of  salt,  a 
quarter  ditto  of  pepper,  and  a  little  cay- 
enne ;  warm  gently,  and  when  upon  the 
point  of  boiling,  add  the  butter  and  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  thick  cream;  shake 


216 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


round  over  the  fire  until  quite  hot,  when 
it  is  ready  to  serve. 

264— LOBSTER  SAUCE  SIMPLIFIED. 
Put  the  slices  of  lobster  into  a  stew- 
pan,  with  ten  tablespoonfuls  of  milk; 
add  a  little  pepper,  salt,  cayenne,  two 
cloves,  and  half  a  blade  of  mace ;  set  it 
upon  the  fire,  and  when  on  the  point  of 
boiling,  add  a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of 
two  walnuts,  with  which  you  have  mix- 
ed a  little  flour ;  shake  round  over  the 
fire,  and  when  getting  rather  thick,  add 
two  spoonfuls  of  cream,  if  at  hand,  and 
serve  very  hot. 

265.-LOBSTEE  SAUCE.- (French  receipt.) 
A  hen  lobster  is  indispensable  for  this 
sauce.  Put  some  of  the  spawn  of  the 
fish  into  a  mortar,  to  be  pounded  very 
fine ;  add  to  it  a  small  bit  of  butter. 
"When  very  fine,  rub  it  through  a  hair 
sieve,  and  cover  till  wanted.  Break  the 
lobster  with  great  care,  cut  all  the  flesh 
into  dice,  not  too  small ;  dilute  some  of 
the  red  spawn  in  melted  butter,  with 
two  spoonfuls  of  essence  of  anchovies, 
a  little  salt  and  cayenne  pepper,  two 
spoonfuls  of  thick  cream,  and  mix  all 
well  before  the  meat  is  added,  as  that 
must  retain  its  dice-like  form.  Do  not 
let  this  sauce  boil.  It  must  be  very  red. 
Add  to  it  a  teaspoonful  of  cavice,  and 
observe  that  the  cavice  should  be  very 
old ;  two  or  three  years'  age  renders  it 
excellent. 

266.— SOYER'S  LOBSTER  AND  SHRIMP 
SAUCE  FOR  SALMON. 

Lobster. — Put  twelve  spoonfuls  of 
melted  butter  into  a  stewpan;  cut  a 
middle-sized  hen  lobster  into  dice,  make 
one-quarter  pound  of  lobster  butter 
with  the  spawn  by  pounding  it  well  in  a 
mortar,  adding  one-quarter  pound  fresh 
butter,  and  rubbing  the  mixture  through 
a  hair  sieve  ;  add  this  to  the  melted  but- 
ter when  just  boiling ;  stir  it  over  the 


fire  till  the  butter  is  melted ;  season  with 
a  little  essence  of  anchovy,  the  juice  ol 
half  a  lemon,  and  a  -quarter  of  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  cayenne ;  pass  it  through  a 
tamis  (a  coarse  flannel)  into  another 
stewpan ;  then  add  the  flesh  of  the  lob- 
ster. Serve  it  hot.  This  sauce  must  be 
red ;  if  not  red  hi  the  lobster,  use  live 
spawn. 

Shrimp. — Make  the  melted  butter  as 
above,  but  finish  with  essence  of  shrimps, 
and  serve  half  a  pint  of  pickled  shrimps 
in  the  boat  with  it;  or  the  anchovy 
sauce  may  be  served  with  shrimps  in  it 
as  a  substitute,  if  there  is  no  essence  of 
shrimps. 

267.— SHRIMP  SAUCE 
Is  also  very  good  as  follows :  Pound 
half  a  pint  of  shrimps,  skins  and  all,  in  a 
mortar,  and  boil  them  ten  minutes  in 
half  a  pint  of  water ;  pass  the  liquor 
through  a  hair  sieve  into  a  stewpan,  and 
add  a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of  two" 
walnuts,  with  which  you  have  mixed  a 
good  teaspoonful  of  flour,  stir  it  round 
over  the  fire  until  upon  the  point  of 
boiling ;  if  too  thick,  add  a  little  more 
water ;  season  with  a  little  cayenne  and 
a  teaspoonful  of  essence  of  anchovies ; 
serve  very  hot ;  a  few  picked  shrimps 
might  also  be  served  in  it. 

268.— LOBSTER  SAUCE. 

Put  twelve  tablespoonfuls  of  melted 
butter  in  a  stewpan,  cut  up  a  small-sized 
lobster  into  dice  ;  make  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  lobster  butter  with  the  spawn, 
as  directed ;  when  the  melted  butter  is 
upon  the  point  of  boiling,  add  the  lobster 
butter,  stir  the  sauce  round  over  the  fire 
until  the  butter  is  melted,  season  with  a 
little  essence  of  anchovies,  the  juice  of 
half  a  lemon,  and  a  quarter  of  a  salt- 
spoonful  of  cayenne  pepper;  pass  it 
through  a  tammy  into  another  stewpan, 
and  add  the  flesh  of  the  lobster.  This 
sauce  must  be  red. 


SAUCES   FOR   FISH. 


217 


269.— MATELOTE  SAUCE. 

For  about  a  pound  slice  of  salmon 
make  the  following  quantity  of  sauce  > 
—Peel  thirty  button  onions,  and  put 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar  in  a  quart- 
sized  stcwpan,  place  it  over  a  sharp  fire, 
and  when  melted  and  getting  brown,  add 
a  piece  of  butter  (the  size  of  two  wal- 
nuts) and  the  onions,  toss  them  over 
now  and  then  until  rather  brown,  then 
add  a  glass  of  sherry ;  let  it  boil ;  then 
add  half  a  pint  of  brown  sauce  and  a 
gill  of  broth ;  simmer  at  the  corner  of 
the  fire  until  the  onions  are  quite  tender ; 
skim  it  well,  and  add  a  few  mushrooms, 
if  at  hand  ;  season  with  a  little  salt  and 
sugar,  and  sauce  over  any  kind  of  fish 
where  described.  The  addition  of  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  essence  of  anchovies  is  an 
improvement.  Use  where  directed. 

2TO.— MATELOTE  SAUCE  SIMPLIFIED. 

Proceed  as  above  respecting  the  on- 
ions, only  add  a  fourth  more  butter,  and 
fry  them  a  little  browner ;  then  add  a 
glass  of  sherry  and  two  teaspoonfuls  of 
flour,  which  stir  round  gently  with  a 
small  wooden  spoon ;  add  to  it  about  a 
pint  of  water,  stir  now  and  then  till  boil- 
ing, add  three  saltspoonfuls  of  salt,  two 
of  sugar,  one  of  pepper,  and  a  bouquet 
garni ;  simmer  and  skim,  add  a  few  drops 
of  coloring  to  give  it  a  nice  brown  color ; 
when  ready  to  serve,  add  a  good  table- 
spoonful  of  anchovy  essence ;  it  ought  to 
adhere  lightly  to  the  back  of  the  spoon, 
but  not  be  too  thick ;  sauce  over  or  un- 
.der,  as  directed ;  small  pieces  of  glaze, 
if  thickened  with  the  eggs — (great  care 
must  be  exercised,  for  if  it  should  be- 
come too  hot  the  eggs  would  curdle,  and 
render  the  sauce  useless ;)  then  add  half 
a  pint  of  melted  butter  ;  stir  all  together 
over  the  fire4. 

271.— OYSTEE  8AUQE. 

Blanch  three  dozen  oysters5which  again 


put  into  the  stewpan,  with  their  liquor 
(after  having  detached  the  beards)  ;  add 
six  peppercorns  and  half  a  blade  of  mace  ; 
place  them  over  the  fire,  and  when  be- 
ginning to  simmer,  add  a  piece  of  butter 
the  size  of  a  walnut,  with  which  you 
have  mixed  sufficient  flour  to  form  a 
paste,  break  it  in  four  or  five  pieces  j 
shake  the  stewpan  round  over  the  fire, 
and  when  upon  the  point  of  boiling,  and 
becoming  thick,  add  half  a  gill  of  milk,  or 
more  if  required;  season  with  a  little 
cayenne,  salt,  pepper,  and  a  few  drops  of 
essence  of  anchovies :  serve  very  hot. 

272.— MUSSEL  SAUCE. 
Proceed  exactly  the  same  as  for  oyster 
sauce,  using  only  the  liquor  of  the  mus- 
sels (not  the  beards)  instead  of  the 
oysters,  and  serving  the  mussels  in  the 
sauce ;  about  four  dozen  would  be  suffi- 
cient. 

278.-*COD  SAUCE. 

Take  a  bunch  of  parsley,  chervil,  two 
shalots,  two  cloves,  a  bay-leaf,  some 
mushrooms,  and  a  bit  of  butter,  soak  all 
together  on  the  fire,  adding  a  small 
spoonful  of  flour,  and  milk  or  cream 
sufficient  to  boil  to  the  consistence  of  a 
sauce,  and  add  to  it  some  chopped  pars- 
ley first  scalded. 

.,*  274— EEL  SAUCE. 

Cut  the  eels  into  large  pieces  and  put 
them  into  a  stewpan  with  a  few  slices  of 
bacon,  ham,  veal,  two  onions,  with  all 
sorts  of  roots;  soak  it  till  it  catches, 
then  add  a  glass  of  white  wine  and  good 
broth,  a  little  cullis,  three  or  four  tarra- 
gon leaves,  chervil,  a  clove  of  garlic,  two 
of  spices,  and  a  bay-leaf;  simmer  for  an 
hour,  skim  it  very  well,  and  sift  it  in  a 
sieve  for  use. 

275.-SAUCE  FOE  FISH. 

Twenty-four  anchovies  chopped;   ten 


218 


THE   PEACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


eschalots  ;  two  ounces  of  horseradish, 
scraped ;  four  blades  of  mace ;  one  lemon 
sliced;  twelve  cloves;  quarter  of  an 
ounce  of  black  pepper,  whole ;  one  gill 
of  the  anchovy  liquor ;  one  quart  of  best 
vinegar;  one  quart  of  water.  Let  the 
whole  simmer  on  the  fire  until  reduced  to 
one  quart,  in  a  covered  saucepan ;  strain 
and  bottle  for  use.  If  required  for  long 
keeping,  add  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  cay- 
enne pepper. 


276.— LOBSTER  SAUCE. 
Pick  the  meat  from  a  lobster  and  cut 
it  into  small  pieces.  Break  the  shell, 
and  stew  it  with  the  legs,  &c.,  in  a  pint 
and  a  half  of  water,  until  reduced  to  the 
quantity  required  ;  then  strain  ;  add 
flour  and  water  to  thicken  it.  Pound 
some  of  the  live  spawn  from  the  tail,  add- 
ing a  little  water  to  it ;  when  well  pound- 
ed pour  it  by  degrees  into  the  sauce  ;  let 
it  boil  up ;  add  fresh  butter  to  it  in  the 
proportion  of  three-fourths  of  a  pound 
of  butter  to  a  quart  of  sauce  ;  throw  in 
the  lobster :  season  with  a  little  anchovy, 
cayenne,  salt,  and  a  small  quantity  of 
lemon-juice.  It  should  be  thick  rather 
than  thin. 

Or  : — Take  a  cold  boiled  hen  lobster ; 
split  the  tail,  and  pound  the  coral,  which 
is  found  in  the  tail  and  in  the  body,  in  a 
mortar,  adding  a  little  sweet  oil.  Then 
chop  the  meat  of  the  body  into  very  small 
pieces,  and  rub  it,  along  with  the  soft 
parts  and  coral,  through  a  sieve.  That 
done,  cut  up  the  flesh  of  the  claws  and 
tail  into  dice,  and  stir  the  entire  mixture 
gradually  into  the  proper  quantity  of 
melted  butter,  without  suffering  it  to 
boil ;  as,  if  too  much  heated,  the  flavor 
and  color  of  the  sauce  will  be  injured. 
The  seasoning  should  only  be  a  moderate 
quantity  of  mace  and  cayenne,  with  half 
a  glass  of  white  wine,  or  a  cup  of  cream, 
to  a  pint  tureen  of  sauce. 


Crab  Sauce  is  made  in  the  same  man- 
ner ;  but  crabs,  being  without  coral,  and 
.the  flesh  less  firm  than  that  of  lobster, 
form  a  rather  inferior  sauce. 

27T.— SHEIMP  SAUCE. 

Pick  the  heads  and  skins  from  some 
fresh  shrimps  and  stew  these  offals  for 
half  an  hour  in  a  small  quantity  of 
boiling  water  to  extract  their  flavor  ; 
then  strain  the  liquor  and  make  use  of  it 
in  melting  the  butter  in  which  the  shell- 
ed shrimps  are  to  be  dressed  ;  these  are 
then  to  be  put  into  the  butter  and  liquor 
to  simmer  gently  for  about  twenty  min- 
utes, in  which  time  they  will  be  suffi- 
ciently done,  and  their  flavor  is  so  deli- 
cate that  neither  anchovy  sauce,  mace, 
cayenne  pepper,  nor  any  other  condiment 
than  salt,  should  be  put  to  them  ;  add  a 
little  cream.  * 

A  pint  of  unshelled  shrimps  will  make 
a  tureen  of  sauce  large  enough  for  four 
or  five  persons. 


GEAYY,  SAUCES,  ETC. 

THERE  is  nothing  that  requires  more 
attention  on  the  part  of  the  cook  than  the 
sauces  which  are  wanted  to  all  made 
dishes.  Where  a  calf's  head  or  a  breast 
of  veal  is  stewed,  nothing  more  will  be 
required,  as  both  will  yield  an  abundant 
supply,  and  it  will  only  be  necessary  to 
give  it  the  proper  flavor  with  ham,  or 
beef-bone,  and  ketchup. 

GEAYY 

May  be  made  quite  as  good  of  the 
skirts  of  beef,  kidney,  or  of  the  liver  of  a 
fat  ox,  as  of  any  other  kind  of  meat,  if 
cut  in  pieces,  fried  with  onions,  and  sea- 
soned with  herbs  and  spices,  as  other 
gravies.  -  A  clever  servant  will  contrive 
to  supply  at  a  trifling  expense,  as  much 
gravy  as  is  wanted  for  the  use  of  a  small 


GRAVIES. 


219 


family  by  stewing  down  the  trimmings 
of  meat  and  bones.  It  may  even  be  made 
of  the  shank-bones  of  legs  and  shoulders 
of  mutton ;  they  should  be  thrown  into 
water,  and,  after  a  good  soaking  and 
brushing,  be  long  boiled.  The  water  in 
which  they  are  done  will  add  greatly  to 
the  richness  of  gravy,  as  does  the  jelly  of 
cow-heels.  The  latter  must  lie  all  night 
in  water,  which  causes  the  jelly  to  be  of 
a  good  color.  When  boiled  three  hours, 
and  become  cold,  let  the  fat  be  carefully 
taken  off;  and  when  apparently  quite 
clear,  lay  some  white  paper  upon  it,  rub- 
bing it  close  with  a  spoon,  which  will  re- 
move every  particle  of  grease,  and  it  will 
be  as  pure  as  the  jelly  of  a  calf's  foot. 

In  preparing  meat  to  stew  for  gravy, 
beat  it  with  a  mallet  or  rolling-pin,  and 
score  it  across  in  various  places,  as  this 
will  make  it  give  out  its  juices ;  season 
it  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  put  it  into 
a  stewpan  with  butter, only,  heating  it 
gradually  until  it  becomes  brown,  but 
shaking  the  pan  frequently  to  see  that  it 
does  not  burn  or  stick  to  the  bottom.  It 
will  generally  be  browned  sufficiently  in 
half  an  hour.  If  kept  in  a  very  cool 
place  and  covered  closely  in  a  stone  jar, 
it  will  keep  good  for  two  or  three  days  in 
summer,  and  more  than  a  week  in  winter, 
but  should  not  be  thickened  until  it  is 
meant  to  be  used. 

Tarragon  and  knotted  marjoram,  by 
some  called  "  London  thyme,"  are  a  great 
improvement  to  gravies,  as  also  all  those 
condiments  enumerated  in  the  chapter  on 
soups,  but  should  be  added  only  a  short 
time  before  serving. 

Truffles  and  morels  also  thicken  anc 
improve  the  flavor  of  gravies  and  soups 
half  an  ounce    being  carefully  washed 
of  each,  simmer  them  in  a  pint  of  water 
and  add  the  whole. 

In  the  preparation  of  large  dinners  for 
company,  it  is  indispensable  to  procure 
strong  gravy  to  color  ami  impart  flavor 
to  sauces  and  ragouts,  and  this  can  be 


lone  by  using  coarse  pieces  of  the  lean  of 
>eef  or  veal,  and  the  giblets  or  trimmings 
f  poultry  and  game,  with  a  small  portion 
)f  a  knuckle  of  ham ;  but  for  this  purpose 
t  must  be  stewed  for  a  long  time,  skim- 
med, strained,  thickened,  and  afterwards 
lavored  with  whatever  condiments  are 
most  suited  to  the  dish  it  is  to  accompany. 

2T8.— STOCK  FOE  GRAVY. 

A  good  mode  of  making  stock  for  gra- 
ies  is  to  cut  lean  beef  thin,  put  it  into  a 
jjravy  pot  without  any  butter  or  fat,  and 
set  it  on  a  fire  covered,  but  take  care  it 
does  not  burn ;  let  it  stay  till  all  the  gra- 
vy that  comes  out  of  the  meat  is  dried  up 
into  it  again,  often  shaking  it;  put  as 
much  water  as  will  cover  the  meat,  and 
let  that  stew  away.  Then  put  to  the 
meat  a  small  quantity  of  water,  herbs, 
onions,  spice,  and  a  bit  of  lean  ham ;  sim- 
mer till  it  is  rich,  and  keep  it  in  a  closet 
refrigerator.  Do  not  take  off  the  fat  till 
going  to  be  used. 


Closet  Refrigerator. 

Or,  an  excellent  stock  may  be  made  in 
this  manner :— Put  into  a  casserole  three 
ounces  of  butter,  four  large  carrots,  six 
middling-sized  onions,  three  roots  of  pars- 
ley sliced ;  a  small  sprig  of  thyme ;  three 
cloves;  three  bay-leaves ;  two  pounds  of 
small  fresh  fish  cut  fine,  with  salt,  pep- 
per, and  one-half  a  bottle  of  white  (but 
not'  sweet)  wine,  and  nearly  as  much 
broth.  Cover  close,  and  simmer  until  the 


220 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


whole  be  mashed;  strain  it  through  a 
fine  sieve.  In  another  casserole  stew  a 
pint  of  mushrooms,  a  little  parsley  and 
herbs,  in  half  a  pint  of  water,  till  the 
flavor  of  all  be  obtained ;  strain  both  li- 
quors, and  heat  them  together.  - 

279 —BEEF  GRAYT. 

Cut  a  piece  of  the  cheek  or  neck  into 
pieces ;  strew  some  fiour  over  it ;  mix  it 
•well  with  the  meat,  and  put  it  into  the 
saucepan  with  as  much  water  as  will  cov- 
er it ;  an  onion,  a  little  allspice,  a  little 
pepper,  and  some  salt ;  cover  it  close,  and 
when  it  boils  skim  it ;  then  throw  in  a 
small  crust  of  bread,  or  raspings,  and  stew 
it  till  the  gravy  is  rich  and  good  ;  strain 
it  off,  and  pour  it  into  a  sauce  boat. 

280.— GEAYY  FOR  A  HAUNCH  OF  YENISON. 
Cut  off  the  fat  from  two  or  three  pounds 
of  a  loin  of  old  mutton,  and  set  it  in 
steaks  on  a  gridiron  for  a  few  minutes, 
just  to  brown  one  side ;  put  them  into 
a  saucepan  with  a  quart  of  water ;  cover 
quite  close  for  an  hour,  and  simmer  it 
gently ;  then  uncover  it,  and  stew  till  the 
gravy  is  reduced  to  a  pint ;  season  with 
salt  only. 

231.— YEAL  GRAVY. 

When  all  the  meat  has  been  taken  from 
a  knuckle  of  veal,  divide  the  bones,  and 
lay  them  in  a  stewpot,  with  a  pound  of 
the  scrag  of  a  neck,  an  ounce  of  lean  ba- 
con, a  bunch  of  parsley,  a  little  thyme, 
a  bit  of  lemon  peel,  and  a  dessert-spoon- 
ful of  pepper ;  add  as  much  water  as  will 
cover  them.  Boil  and  skim  it ;  stop  the 
pot  down  close,  and  let  it  simmer  as  slow- 
ly as  possible  three  hours.  Strain  off, 
and  let  it  stand  till  cold ;  then  skim  it, 
and  take  the  jelly  from  the  sediment. 
Pound  some  mace  fine,  and  boil  it  with 
two  spoonfuls  of  water,  and  add  to  the 
gravy.  If  cream  is  to  be  put  to  it,  do 
not  add  the  salt  until  the  gravy  comes 
off  the  fire. 


2S2.— GRAYY  TO  MAKE  MUTTON  EAT 
LIKE  YENISON. 

Pick  a  very  stale  woodcock  or  snipe ; 
cut  it  in  pieces  (but  first  take  out  the 
bag  from  the  entrails),  and  simmer  with 
as  much  unseasoned  meat-gravy  as  you 
vill  want.  Strain  it  and  serve  in  the  dish ; 
but  if  the  mutton  be  not  long  kept,  it 
will  not  acquire  the  venison  flavor. 

288.— YELOUTE. 

Take  one  pound  of  veal,  with  the  re- 
mains of  a  fowl  and  a  dozen  full-grown 
mushrooms,  or  a  smaller  number  of  green 
truffles ;  heat  these  in  melted  butter,  or 
beef  fat,  without  browning ;  season  with 
salt,  pepper,  nutmeg,  or  mixed  spices,  to 
which  may  be  added  a  couple  of  carrots 
and  onions,  with  a  table-spoonful  or  two 
of  flour.  When  boiled,  skim  off  the  fat, 
and  let  it  simmer  for  one  and  a  half  hours, 
after  which  strain  it,  and  keep  it  closely 
stopped  for  furtker  use. 

284.— BEEF  GRAYY.  (French  Receipt.) 
Trim  with  layers  of  fat  bacon  the  bot- 
tom of  a  thick  stewpan ;  cut  four  large 
onions  in  halves,  and  lay  the  flat  part 
over  the  bacon ;  take  a  few  pieces  of  beef, 
put  them  in  the  same  manner  as  in  the  veal 
gravy ;  moisten  with  the  first  broth  only. 
Let  this  sweat,  to  get  all  tjie  gravy  out  of 
the  beefj  and  when  the  broth  is  reduced, 
thrust  a  knife  into  the  meat ;  let  it  stew 
gently  on  a  slow  fire  till  the  gravy  is  a 
light  brown  color.  Next  moisten  with 
some  broth ;  thro^v  in  a  large  bunch  of 
parsley  and  of  green  onions ;  a  little  salt, 
and  a  peppercorn.  Let  the  whole  boil 
for  an  hour ;  take  the  fat  off,  and  drain 
it  through  a  silken  sieve,  to  use  when 
wanted. 

285.— GRAYY— CLEAR. 

Slice  some  beef  thinly,  broil  a  part  of 
it  over  a  very  clear,  quick  fire,  just 
enough  to  give  color  to  the  gravy,  but 


GRAVIES. 


221 


not  to  dress  it ;  put  that  with  the  raw 
into  a  tinned  stewpan  with  a  couple  of 
onions,  one  or  two  cloves,  whole  black 
pepper,  berries  of  allspice,  and  a  bunch 
of  sweet  herbs  ;  cover  it  with  hot  water, 
give  it  one  boil,  and  skim  it  two  or  three 
times,  then  cover  it,  and  let  it  simmer 
till  quite  strong. 

286.— CUEEY  POWDERS. 

One  ounce  of  ginger,  the  same  of  cori- 
ander-seed, one-half  ounce  of  cayenne 
pepper,  and  two  ounces  of  fine  pale  tur- 
meric ;  these  ingredients  to  be  pounded 
separately  to  a  fine  powder,  and  then 
warmed  by  the  fire,  and  mixed  together. 
Put  the  powder  into  a  wide-mouthed 
bottle,  cork  it  well  down,  and  put  it  into 
a  dry  place. 

Or : — One  tablespoonful  of  coriander- 
seed,  one  teaspoonml  of  cumin-seed,  the 
same  of  turmeric  and  of  cayenne  pepper, 
anjl  one  table-spoonful  of  common  flour. 
When  to  be  used  mix  all  these  ingredi- 
ents in  their  several  proportions,  with 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  lemon-pickle  and 
four  of  cream,  adding  this  mixture  to  the 
fried  onions  and  butter,  &c. 

Or : — One  and  a  •  half  ounces  of  mus- 
tard-seed scorched  and  finely  powdered, 
four  ounces  of  coriander  seed  powdered, 
four  and  a  half  ounces  of  turmeric,  three 
ounces  of  black  pepper,  one  and  a  quar- 
ter ounces  of  cayenne  pepper,  one  ounce 
of  the  lesser  cardamoms,  one-half  ounce 
of  ginger,  and  one  .of  cumin-seed,  all 
finely  powdered.  The  flavor  may  be 
varied  by  the  addition  of  all  or  any  of 
the  following  ingredients  :  cinnamon,  in 
powder,  one  ounce ;  cloves,  ditto,  one- 
half  ounce ;  mace,  ditto,  one-half  ounce. 

28T.— CUEEY  POWDEE. 
(Kitchiner's  tried  Eeceipt) 

Dry  and  reduce  to  a  fine  powder  the 
following  spices : 
Coriander-seed,  three  ounces, 


Turmeric,  three  ounces, 

Black  pepper,     one  ounce, 
Mustard,  one  ounce,      .  . 

Ginger,  one  ounce, 

Lesser  cardamoms  half  an  ounce, 
Cayenne  pepper,  a  quarter  of  an  ounce, 
Cumin-seed,  a  quarter  of  an  ounce. 
Thoroughly  pound  and  mix,  and  keep 
them  in  a  closely  stopped  bottle.     Three 
ounces  of  the  powder  steeped  ten  days 
in  a  quart  of  vinegar  or  white  wine,  will 
impregnate  it  with  the  flavor. 

288.— DELHI  CUEEY  POWDEE. 
Twenty     teaspoonfuls    of     turmeric, 
eight  of  pounded  chilis  or  cayenne  pep- 
per, and  twelve  each  ^of  cumin,  corian- 
der-seed, and  dried  cassia-leaves. 

289.— A  PLAIN  CUEEY. 

Put  into  a  fryingpan  a  piece  of  butter, 
a  small  onion  cut  into  pieces,  and  two 
cloves  of  garlic ;  fry  these  until  brown, 
put  the  meat  to  the  above,  and  add  the 
curry  powder,  and  sufficient  cold  water 
to  cover  the  meat,  and  boil  the  whole 
gently  until  the  meat  is  cooked ;  then 
add  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  and  a  little 
salt. 

290.— THE  ASPIC,  A  JELLY. 

Take  a  handful  of  aromatic  herbs, 
such  as  burnet,  chervil,  and  tarragon. 
Boil  them  in  white  vinegar ;  when  the 
vinegar  is  well  scented,  pour  into  the 
stewpan  some  consomme  of  fowl  reduc- 
ed; season  well  before  you  clarify. 
When  the  aspic  is  highly  seasoned,  break 
the  whites  of  four  eggs  into  an  earthen 
pan,  and  beat  them  with  an  osier  rod ; 
throw  the  aspic  into  the  whites  of  eggs, 
and  put  the  whole  on  the  fire  in  a  stew- 
pan; keep  beating  or  stirring  till  the 
jelly  gets  white ;  it  is  then  very  near  boil- 
ing. Put  it  on  the  corner  of  the  stove, 
with  a  cover  over  it,  and  a  little  fire  on 
the  top  of  it.  When  quite  clear  and 
bright,  strain  it  through  a  bag,  or  sieve, 
or  napkin,  to  be  used  when  wanted. 


222 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


N.  B.  If  this  is  wanted  for  a  mayon- 
aise,  or  as  a  jelly  in  moulds,  make  sure 
of  its.  being  stiff  enough.  Then  put  a 
knuckle  of  veal  in  a  small  stock-pot,  a 
small  part  of  a  knuckle  of  ham,  and  two 
calves'  feet,  some  trimming  of  fowl  or 
game.  Season  this  with  onions,  carrots, 
and  a  bunch  of  herbs  well  seasoned ; 
pour  into  it  half  a  bottle  of  white  wine, 
and  moisten  with  good  broth ;  let  it  boil 
gently  for  four  hours,  then  skim  away 
all  the  fat,  and  drain  it  through  a  silken 
sieve ;  put  that  in  a  stewpan,  with  two 
spoonfuls  of  tarragon  vinegar,  and  four 
whites  of  eggs,  salt,  and  pepper,  to 
clarify ;  and  keep  stirring  it  on  the  fire 
till  the  whole  becomes  very  white,  then 
put  this  on  the  side  with  a  little  fire 
over  the  cover ;  when  you  find  it  clear, 
drain  it  in  a  cloth  or  jelly-bag,  and  use 
it  for  aspic ;  if  not,  do  not  put  in  any 
vinegar :  jelly  for  pie  or  galantine  does 
not  require  acid. 

291.— EPICUREAN  SAUCE. 
Indian  soy,  two  ounces ;  walnut  and 
mushroom  ketchup,  of  each  eight  ounces  ; 
port  wine,  two  ounces;  white  pepper, 
bru^ed,  half  an  ounce;  shalots,  three 
ounces  ;  cayenne,  a  quarter  of  an  ounce ; 
cloves,  half  an  ounce.  Macerate  for  four- 
teen days  in  a  warm  place ;  strain,  and 
add  sufficient  white  wine  vinegar  to  make 
exactly  one  pint.  The  above  forms  a 
piquant  sauce  for  chops,  steaks,  &c.  For 
fish,  a  little  essence  of  anchovy,  and  an 
additional  quantity  of  vinegar,  should  be 
added. 

292.— CARRACK  OR  INDIAN  SAUCE  FOR 
COLD  MEAT. 

Two  heads  of  garlic  sliced,  five  spoon- 
fuls of  soy,  five  spoonfuls  of  mushroom 
ketchup,  eight  spoonfuls  of  walnut  pickle, 
fifteen  anchovies,  or  five  spoonfuls  of  es- 
sence of  anchovies,  three  spoonfuls  of 
mango  pickle,  one  quart  of  vinegar — mix 


in  a  bottle  and  set  it  in  the  chimney  corner;' 
shake  daily  for  a  month.  It  is  excellent 
without  the  mango.  [This  is  an  excel- 
lent sauce,  and  without  the  mango  would 
be  mild.] 

293  -HOT  SPICE— A  DELICIOUS  ADJUNCT 
TO  CHOPS,  STEAKS,  GRAVIES,  SOUPS,  &c. 

Three  drachms  each  of  ginger,  black 
pepper,  and  cinnamon ;  seven  cloves  ; 
mace  half  an  ounce ;  cayenne  one  quarter 
of  an  ounce  ;  nutmegs  one  ounce  ;  white 
pepper,  one  ounce  and  a  half;  mix.  The 
quantity  of  cayenne  may  be  increased, 
should  the  above  not  be  enough  to  suit 
the  palate. 

294.— A  RICH  GRAYY. 

Cut  beef  into  thin  slices,  according  to 
the  quantity  wanted  ;  slice  onions  thin, 
and  flour  both ;  fry  them  of  a  light  pale 
brown,  but  do  not  on  any  account  suifer 
them  to  get  black  :  put  them  into  a  stew- 
pan,  pour  boiling  water  on  the  browning 
in  the  frying-pan,  boil  it  up,  and  pour  on 
the  meat.  Put  to  it  a  bunch  of  parsley, 
thyme,  and  savory,  a  small  bit  of  knotted 
marjoram,  the  same  of  tarragon,  some 
mace,  berries  of  allspice,  whole  black 
pepper,  a  clove  or  two,  and  a  bit  of  ham, 
or  gammon  of  bacon.  Simmer  till  you 
have  extracted  all  the  juices  of  the  meat, 
and  be  sure  to  skim  the  moment  it  boils, 
and  often  after.  If  for  a  hare,  or  stewed 
fish,  anchovy  should  be  added. 


295.— MELTED  BUTTER. 

Although  it  may  be  presumed  that 
every  cook  who  understands  her  business 
knows  how  to  melt  butter,  it  is  yet  con- 
stantly brought  to  table  either  too  thick 
or  too  thin,  and  not  unfrequently  filled 
with  lumps  of  flour  or  in  a  state  of  oil, 
and  requires  more  care  in  the  manage- 
ment than  is  generally  thought  neces- 
sary. 


SAUCES. 


223 


The  excellence  of  melted  butter  greatly 
depends  upon  the  pains  taken  to  blend  it 
with  the  flour  before  it  is  put  upon  the 
fire,  the  best  plan  of  doing  which  is  to 
rub  them  together  with  a  knife  on  a 
wooden  trencher.  When  well  mixed, 
add  two  table-spoonfuls  of  hot  water,  or 
the  same  quantity  of  milk ;  put  it  into  a 
small  pipkin,  shaking  it  one  way  until  it 
boils,  and  not  leaving  it  an  instant ;  it 
must  boil  a  minute  to  take  off  the  raw- 
ness, and  if  made  of  fresh  Gutter  add  a 
little  salt.  Remember  that  if  you  set 
it  on  the  hot  coals,  or  over  the  fire,  it 
will  be  oily ;  if  the  butter  and  flour  be 
not  well  mixed,  it  will  be  lumpy ;  and 
if  you  put  too  much  water,  it  will  be  thin 
and  poor.  By  attending  to  these  direc- 
tions, and  only  using  sufficient  flour  to 
prevent  the  butter  from  oiling,  it  will 
be  rich  and  smooth. 

Or:— Mix  together  by  degrees  two 
spoonfuls  of  flour  in  cold  water  ;  make  it 
smooth  and  thin  ;  then  put  on  a  pint  of 
water,  let  it  boil,  stir  in  the  flour  and 
water  to  make  the  required  thickness, 
cut  half  a  pound  of  fresh  butter  in  smal 
pieces,  put  it  into  the  flour  and  water 
let  it  boil  well ;  it  is  then  fit  for  use;  a 
pinch  of  salt  may  be  required. 

When  thin  melted,  butter  is  required  t< 
pour  over  puddings,  roast  veal,  &c.,  mak< 
it  the  same  way,  adding  a  larger  propor 
tion  of  water  or  milk,  the  latter  render 
ing  it  rather  whiter  than  the  water ;  an 
if  meant  to  be  more  rich  than  common 
use  cream  instead  of  milk.  Indeed  th 
French  frequently  enrich  melted  butte 
by  adding  the  yolk  of  a  raw  egg. 

296.— MAlTKE  D'H6TEL  BUTTEE. 

Put  one-fourth  of  a  pound  of  fresh  butte 
upon  a  plate,  the  juice  of  two  lemons,  an 
two  large  table-spoonfuls  of  chopped  pars 
ley,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  hal 
that  quantity  of  white  pepper ;  mix  a 
well  together,  and  keep  in  a  cool  place  fo 
use. 


297.— TO  BEOWN  MELTED  BUTTEE. 
Put  a  lump  of  butter  into  a  frying-pan, 
nd  toss  it  round  over  the  fire  until  it 
ecomes  brown  ;  then  dredge  some  flour 
ver  it,  which  has  been  also  browned  by 
utting  it  either  in  the  oven  or  before  the 
fire,  and  stir  it  round  with  a  spoon  until 
tie  butter  boils. 

By  adding  some  of  the  flavored  vine- 
ars  and  compound  sauces  to  melted  but- 
er  thus  prepared,  most  of  the  fish-sauces 
an  be  made,  and  many  of  those  in  com- 
non  use  are  composed  in  this  simple 
manner. 

298.— PAESLEY  AND  BUTTEE. 

Scald  a  large  handful  of  parsley  in 
boiling  water  that  has  some  salt  in  it ; 
when  tender  chop  it  fine,  and  stir  it  into 
some  rather  thick  melted  butter.  There 
should  be  sufficient  parsley  to  make  the 
auce  green,  and  the  parsley  should  not 
be  put  to  the  melted  butter  until  about 
to  be  served,  otherwise  it  will  burn 
brown. 

299.— FENNEL  SAUCE. 

Proceed  as  for  parsley  and  butter. 

The  first  is  used  for  the  various  pur- 
poses of  fish,  poultry,  and  fresh  boiled 
meats  ;  fennel  mostly  for  mackerel. 

300.— CAPEE  SAUCE,  WHITE. 
Put  whole  capers  into  melted  butter, 
adding  a  little  of  the  vinegar  they  are 
pickled  in,  a  pinch  of  salt,  and  sufficient 
cream  to  make  it  white.  This  is  used 
principally  for  boiled  mutton. 

801.—CAPEE  SAUCE,  BEOWN. 

Take  some  thick  brown  sauce,  adding 
the  vinegar  the  capers  are  pickled  in; 
season  it  highly  with  cayenne  and  salt. 
Put  capers  to  the  sauce  just  before  serv- 
ing ;  and  they  must  be  used  liberally. 

Nasturtium  buds  or  seeds  are  some- 
times used  as  a  substitute. 


224 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


802.— EGG  SAUCE. 

Boil  the  eggs  hard,  cut  them  in  small 
dice,  and  put  the  pieces  into  melted  but- 
ter. The  yolk  may  however  be  crushed 
to  a  powder,  and  used  to  thicken  the 
butter.  Or,  if  a  more  savory  sauce  is  re- 
quired, boil  two  eggs  hard,  mince  them 
very  fine,  add  a  third  portion  of  grated 
ham  or  tongue,  a  very  little  white  pepper, 
and  the  juice  of  a  lemon ;  warm  it  up  in 
melted  butter.  It  is  chiefly  used  for 
roast  fowl  and  salt  codfish ;  and  if  the 
butter  fee  sound,  the  salted  will  be  found 
quite  as  good  for  all  these  purposes  as 
the  fresh. 

803.-SAUCES  FOE  EOAST  BEEF  OK 
MUTTON. 

Grate  horseradish  on  a  bread-grater 
into  a  basin,  then  add  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  cream  with  a  little  mustard  and  salt ; 
mix  them  well  together ;  then  add  four 
table-spoonfuls  of  the  best  vinegar,  and 
mix  the  whole  thoroughly.  The  vinegar 
and  cream  are  both  to  be  cold.  This  is 
a  very  fine  sauce ;  it  may  be  served  in  a 
small  tureen. 

Or : — Scrape  the  horseradish  thin  and 
chop  it  small,  or  grate  it,  which  is  better ; 
warm  it  in  melted  butter,  adding  a  spoon- 
ful of  mushroom  ketchup,  and  one  of 
walnut,  or  the  vinegar  from  walnut 
pickle. 

Or: — Scrape  very  fine  or  grate  the 
horseradish ;  add  a  little  made  mustard, 
and  two  spoonfuls  o*f  pounded  white 
sugar  to  four  of  vinegar  :  mix  the  whole 
well  together,  and  place  it  under  the 
meat,  when  nearly  done,  to  catch  the 
gravy  which  drops  from  it  while  roast- 
ing. This  sauce  should  be  very  thick. 

804— HOKSEEADISn  SAUCE, 
Two  teaspoonfuls  of  mustard,  two  of 
white  sugar,  half  a  one  of  salt,  and  a 
little  more  than  a  wineglass  of  vinegar — 


mixed  and  poured  over  a  stock  of  grated 
horseradish.  This  sauce  is  good  for 
beef. 

805.-  QUEEN  MAST'S  SAUCE. 
Take  a  shoulder  of  mutton  that  has 
hung  till  it  is  tender.  When  three  parts 
roasted,  put  a  soup-plate  under  it,  with 
three  spoonfuls  of  hot  water,  the  same 
of  port  wine,  a  shalot,  an  anchovy 
chopped  fine,  and  a  little  pepper ;  baste 
the  meat  with  this  and  the  gravy  that 
drops  from  it.  When  the  mutton  is 
taken  up,  turn  the  inside  upwards,  score 
it  various  ways,  pour  the  gravy  over, 
and  cover  it  with  a  quantity  of  fried 
crumbs  of  bread. 

806.— MANDEAM, 

Is  a  sauce  commonly  used  in  the  West 
Indies  with  roast  beef  and  mutton.  It 
is  made  with  a  sliced  cucumber,  a  chop- 
ped shalot,  and  a  minced  green  capsicum, 
mixed  up  in  a  couple  of  table-spoonfuls 
of  Madeira  wine  and  vinegar;  and  as 
capsicums  can  be  had  green  during  great 
part  of  the  autumn,  it  can  be  also  made 
elsewhere ;  but  neither  chilis  nor  capsi- 
cums, if  dried,  will  impart  the  same 
flavor. 

807.— MINT  SAUCE,  FOE  EOAST  LAMB. 

Pick  the  leaves  off  the  stalks ;  wash 
and  dry  them  carefully ;  chop  them  with 
a  sharp  knife  very  quickly  to  preserve 
their  green  color ;  put  it  into  a  boat ;  add 
sufficient  vinegar  to  make  it  liquid,  and 
powdered  sugar  to  take  off  the  acidity 
of  the  vinegar. 

808.— MUSHEOOM  SAUCE. 

White. — Put  the  mushrooms  into  a 
stewpan  with  one  ounce  of  butter,  some 
pepper  and  salt,  and  squeeze  over  them 
the  juice  of  half  a  lemon ;  set  them  over 
the  fire ;  when  they  have  given  out  their 
liquor,  thicken  it  with  flour  and  butter, 


SAUCES. 


225 


and  add  sufficient  cream  to  whiten  the 
sauce.  This  is  a  very  excellent  sauce 
for  fowls,  rabbits,  and  all  sorts  of  white 
fricassees. 

Or  : — Wash  and  pick  a  pint  of  young 
mushrooms,  and  rub  them  with  salt,  to 
take  off  the  tender  skin ;  put  them  into 
a  saucepan  with  a  little  salt,  some  nut- 
meg, a  blade  of  mace,  a  pint  of  cream, 
and  a  good  piece  of  butter  rubbed  in 
flour.  Boil  them  up,  and  stir  them  till 
done ;  then  pour  it  round  the  chickens, 
&c.  Garnish  with  lemon.  If  you  can- 
not get  fresh  mushrooms,  use  pickled 
ones,  done  white,  with  a  little  mushroom- 
powder  with  the  cream. 

Brown. — It  may  also  be  made  brown 
by  either  putting  the  buttons  into  a  pip- 
kin, and  frying  them  with  a  little  butter 
until  they  become  of  a  delicate  brown, 
and  then  stewing  them  in  strong  gravy 
of  either  beef  or  veal ;  or  by  making  it 
of  old  mushrooms  chopped  small,  fried 
and  stewed  in  the  same  manner,  and 
then  seasoned  according  to  taste.  It  is 
much  used  for  cutlets  and  many  sorts  of 
ragouts. 

809.— CELEET  SAUCE. 

Strip  the  outer  parts  of  the  stem,  and, 
after  carefully  washing  the  remaining 
portion,  cut  it  into  small  pieces ;  put  to 
it  a  blade  of  mace,  without  any  other 
spice,  and  stew  it  in  good  veal  broth 
until  very  tender ;  it  will  take  a  good 
deal  of  time,  more  particularly  the  thick 
hard  end  of  the  root.  After  this  thicken 
it  with  melted  butter,  and  flavor  it  with 
a  small  quantity  of  white  wine ;  or  it 
may  be  thickened  with  boiled  cream 
without  wine.  It  is  usually  served  with 
boiled  turkey,  but  is  very  delicate  with 
any  kind  of  white  poultry  or  veal. 

810.— ONION  SAUCE. 

The  onions  must  be  peeled,  and  then 
boiled  till  they  are  tender,  then  squeeze 


the  water  from  them,  chop  them,  and 
add  butter  that  has  been  melted,  rich 
and  smooth,  with  a  little  good  milk  in- 
stead of  water ;  give  it  one  boil,  serve  it 
with  boiled  rabbits,  partridges,  scrag  or 
knuckle  of  veal,  or  roast  mutton ;  a 
turnip  boiled  with  the  onions  draws  out 
the  strength.  * 

811.-ONION  SAUCE,  BEOWN. 

Peel  and  dice  the  onions ;  some  put 
an  equal  quantity  of  cucumber  and  of 
celery,  into  a  quart  stewpan,  with  an 
ounce  of  butter ;  set  it  over  a  slow  fire, 
and  turn  the  onion  about  till  it  is  slight- 
ly browned,  then  gradually  stir  in  half 
an  ounce  of  flour,  add  a  little  broth, 
and  a  little  pepper  and  salt,  boil  up  for 
a  few  minutes ;  add  a  table-spoonful  of 
claret,  or  port  wine,  and  mushroom- 
ketchup  ;  'you  may  add,  if  you  think 
proper,  lemon-juice  or  vinegar,  and  rub 
it  through  a  tammy  or  fine  sieve. 

312.-OTSTEE  SAUCE. 

In  opening  the  oysters,  savo.  the  liquor, 
and  boil  it  with  the  beards,  a  bit  of  mace, 
and  lemon-peel ;  in  the  mean  time  throw 
the  oysters  into  cold  water,  and  drain  it 
off;  strain  the  liquor,  and  put  it  into  a 
saucepan  with  the  oysters  just  drained 
from  the  cold  water,  with  sufficient  quan- 
tity of  butter,  mixed  with  as  much  milk 
as  will  make  enough  sauce,  but  first  rub 
a  little  flour  with  it ;  set  them  over  the 
fire,  and  stir  all  the  while,  and  when  the 
butter  has  boiled  a  few  times,  take  them 
off,  and  keep  them  close  to  the  fire,  but 
not  upon  it,  for  if  too  much  done,  the 
oysters  will  bscorae  hard ;  add  a  squeeze 
of  lemon-juice,  and  serve ;  a  little  is  a 
great  improvement. 

813.— SAUCE,  HAEEVT. 
Chop  twelve  anchovies,  bone  and  all, 
very  small,  with  one  ounce  of  cayenne 
pepper,  six  spoonfuls  of  soy,  six  ditto  of  • 


226 


THE   PEACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


good  walnut  pickle,  three  heads  of  garlic 
chopped  not  very  small,  a  quarter  of  an 
ounce  of  cochineal,  two  heads  of  shalots 
chopped  rather  large,  one  gallon  of  vine- 
gar ;  let  it  stand  fourteen  days,  stir  it 
well  twice  or  thrice  every  day,  then  pass 
it  through  a  jelly  bag,  and  repeat  this  till 
it  is  quite  clear ;  then  bottle  it,  and  tie  a 
bidder  over  the  cork. 

814.— SAUCE  (Italian)  FOE  SALADS. 

Mix  together  three  table-spoonfuls  of 
sauce  tournee,  one  of  mustard,  some  tar- 
ragon and  chervil  shred  small,  with  three 
table-spoonfuls  of  Florence  oil ;  putting 
in,  however,  a  little  at  a  time  ;  when  per- 
fectly smooth,  add  also,  by  degrees,  a  glass 
of  tarragon  vinegar,  and  a  little  salt. 
This  sauce  cannot  be  too  much  mixed. 

815.— TARRAGON  SAUCE. 

Put  two  table-spoonfuls  of  tarragon 
vinegar  into  a  saucepan,  and  .reduce  it  to 
half  the  quantity,  then  put  to  it  six 
spoonfuls  of  good  butter  sauce  and  mix 
all  well  together,  and  if  not  sufficiently 
strong  put  to  it  a  little  bit  of  glaze,  and 
a  very  little  more  tarragon  vinegar. 

816. -TOMATO  SAUCE. 

Fresh  tomatoes ;  take  out  stalk,  press 
them  all  tightly  down  in  a  stewpan, 
cover  them,  put  them  on  the  fire,  strain 
off  the  liquor  that  is  drawn  from  them, 
add  to  the  tomatoes  a  slice  of  raw  ham. 
two  shalots,  a  few  spoonfuls  of  good 
stock ;  let  it  stew  for  an  hour,  then  rub  it 
through  a  tammy  sieve.  Have  in  an- 
other stewpan  a  little  good  brown  sauce, 
put  your  tomato  into  it,  boil  all  together, 
season  with  cayenne,  salt,  sugar,  and 
lemon-juice. 

817.— ORANGE  GRAVY  SAUCE. 

Put  half  a  pint  of  veal  gravy  into  a 
saucepan,  add  to  it  half  a  dozen  basil 
leaves,  a  small  onion,  a  roll  of  orange  or 
lemon-peel,  and  let  it  boil  for  a  few  min- 


utes, and  strain  it  off;  put  to  the  clear  gra- 
vy, the  juice  of  a  Seville  orange  or  lemon, 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  the  same  quan- 
tity of  pepper,  and  a  glass  of  red  wine, 
serve  it  hot ;  shalot  and  .cayenne  may  be 
added. 

818.— SAUCE  1  LA  TARTARE. 

Take  the  yolk  of  an  egg,  and  drop 
into  it  very  slowly  a  table-spoonful  of 
sweet  oil,  beating  it  up  by  degrees  until 
perfectly  mixed ;  add  a  table-spoonful  of 
vinegar,  a  little  chopped  parsley,  a  table- 
spoonful  of  French  mustard,  pepper  and 
salt ;  beat  up  the  whole  together :  make 
and  keep  the  sauce  in  a  cold  place  ;  put 
it  into  a  dish,  and  lay  the  boiled  fowl 
upon  it.  This  sauce  should  be  beaten 
till  it  resembles  cream. 

819.-MINT  SAUCE. 

Make  mint  vinegar  by  adding  a  very 
little  co!d  vinegar  to  the  chopped  leaves, 
with  powdered  sugar. 

820.— FENNEL  SAUCE. 
Take  as  many  branches  of  green  fennel 
as  you  may  require ;  pick  and  wash  it  in 
the  same  manner  as  parsley  ;  chop  it  very 
small,  scald  and  then  lay  it  on  a  sieve  to 
cool  ;  put  two  spoonfuls  of  veloute,  and 
the  same  of  butter  sauce  into  a  saucepan, 
make  them  quite  hot,  take  care  to  stir  it 
well,  that  they  may  be  properly  mixed ; 
rub  the  fennel  in  a  little  butter,  and 
then  throw  it  into  the  sauce  ;  mix  it  in 
thoroughly,  and  season  it  with  salt,  pep- 
per, and  nutmeg. 

821.— FRESH  PORK  SAUCE. 
Cut  two  or  three  good-siz^l  onions 
into  slices,  and  fry  them  .ghtly,  then 
add  two  spoonfuls  of  cullis,  a  little 
broth,  a  few  mushrooms  chopped,  a  clove 
of  garlic,  vinegar,  and  spice  ;  let  it  boil 
half  an  hour,  reduce  to  a  proper  consist- 
ence, skim  and  strain  it. 


SAUCES. 


227 


822.— GLAZE.— (A  French  Eeceipt.) 
Glaze  is  very  seldom  made  on  purpose, 
except  on  particular  occasions.  Lay  on 
the  fire  a  stock-pot,  with  plenty  of  veal, 
and  a  small  quantity  of  beef  and  ham ; 
moisten  with  broth  ;  when  stewed  for  a 
proper  time,  skim  it  well.  The  glaze  of 
sweated  broth  is  not  so  bright.  Season 
the  broth  with  carrots  and  onions,  a  large 
bunch  of  parsley,  and  green  onions  }  but 
no  turnips  or  celery,  for  they  give  a 
bitter  taste.  If  you  should  have  a  grand 
dinner,  and  wish  to  glaze  of  a  nice  co- 
lor, put  more  veal  into  your  Espagnole 
(Spanish  sauce.)  The  moment  it  comes 
to  a  glaze,  put  part  of  it  into  a  small 
stewpan  for  the  purpose  of  glazing  only. 
The  most  common  glaze  is  made  of  rem- 
nants of  broth,  the  liquor  of  braize,  or 
fricandeaux,  &c.,  which  are  to  be  reduced 
on  a  brisk  fire.  If  you  keep  your  re- 
duction too  long,  it  will  become  black 
and  bitter.  Always  warm  your  glaze  in 
the  hot  water  bath,  that  it  may  not  get 
too  brown  when  you  have  a  grand 
dinner. 


323.— SAUCE  KOBEKT.— (French  Eeceipt.) 
Cut  some  onions  into  small  dice,  fry 
them  of  a  fine  brown,  dust  them  with 
flour,  and  moisten  them  with  some  Span- 
ish sauce.  Skim  it,  that  the  sauce  may 
look  bright ;  put  in  a  little  pepper  and  salt 
and  just  before  you  send  up  mix  a  spoon- 
ful of  mustard. 


824.— SAUCE  KOBEKT. 
Cut  a  few  onions  into  dice,  which  pu 
into  a  frying-pan  with  a  bit  of  butter 
and    fry    them    lightly  ;    when    nicety 
browned,  add  a  dessert  spoonful  of  flour 
a  ladleful  of  stock,  the  same  of  vinegar 
.some  salt,  and   pepper ;  reduce  it  to  a 
proper  thickness,   and  when   ready  fo: 
table   stir  in   two   dessert-spoonfuls  of 
mustard. 


825.— PUREE  OF  ONION,  OR  SOUBISE 
SAUCE. 

Take  a  dozen  white  onions.  After 
laving  peeled  and  washed  them,  cut  them 
nto  halves,  take  off  the  tops  and  bottoms, 
mince  them  as  fine  as  possible,  and  blanch 
hem  to  make  them  taste  sweeter,  and 
:ake  off  the  green  color.  Then  let  them 
nelt  on  a  small  stove,  with  a  little  butter. 
Vhen  they  are  thoroughly  done,  and  no 
dnd  of  moisture  is  left,  mix  four  spoon- 
uls  of  bechaxel.  Season  them  well, 
rub  the  puree  through  a  tammy,  and 
seep  the  sauce  hot,  but  without  boiling. 
You  must  also  put  a  small  lump  of  sugar 
with  the  sauce  if  necessary.  When  you 
lave  the  oven  hot,  put  the  onions  herme- 
tically closed  in  a  small  stewpan,  and  let 
them  simmer  for  one  hour,  with  a  small 
bit  of  ham.  This  method  gives  a  better 
flavor. 

826.— BECHAMEL  SAUCE. 

Take  about  half  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  butter,  about  three  pounds  of  veal  cut 
into  small  slices,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
ham,  some  trimmings  of  mushrooms,  two 
small  white  onions,  a  bunch  of  parsley 
and  green  onions ;  put  the  whole  into  a 
stewpan,  and  lay  it  on  the  fire  till  the 
meat  be  made  firm  Then  put  three 
spoonfuls  of  flour;  moisten  with  some 
boiling-hot  thin  cream  and  a  ladle  of 
consomme*  Keep  this  sauce  rather  .thin, 
so  that  whilst  you  reduce  it  the  ingre- 
dients may  have  time  to  be  stewed 
thoroughly.  Season  it  with  a  little  salt, 
and  strain  it  through  a  tammy.  This 
sauce  should  retain  no  taste  of  flour,  and 
be  very  palatable. 

827.— DUTCH  SAUCE.— (French  Receipt) 
Put  into  a  stewpan  a  teaspoonful  of 
flour,  four  spoonfuls  of  elder  vinegar,  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  fresh  butter,  the 
yolks  of  five  eggs,  and  a  little  salt.  Put 
it  on  the  fire  and  keep  continually  stir- 
ring it.  When  it  has  acquired  thickness 


228 


THE  PRACTICAL  HOUSEKEEPER. 


enough,  work  it  well,  that  you  may  re- 
fine it.  If  it  should  not  be  curdled,  you 
have  no  occasion  to  strain  it  through  a 
tammy;  season  well  and  serve  it  up. 
Some  people  do  not  like  elder  vinegar ; 
in  that  case  use  tarragon  or  plain  vine- 
gar. But  odorous  vinegar  is  far  prefera- 
ble. 

82S.— SAUCE  BLANCHE— (Or  French  Melted 
Butter.) 

Put  into  a  stewpan,  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  fresh  butter,  a  spoonful  of  flour, 
a  little  salt,  half  a  gill  or  glass  of  water, 
half  a  spoonful  of  white  vinegar,  and  a 
little  grated  nutmeg.  Put  it  on  the  fire : 
let  it  thicken,  but  do  not  allow  it  to  boil, 
for  fear  it  should  taste  of  the  flour. 
Serve  hot. 


329. -WHITE  EOUX  *— (WHITE  THICKEN- 
ING.)—(A  French  Receipt.) 

Put  a  good  lump  of  butter  into  a  stew- 
pan,  let  it  melt  over  a  slow  fire,  and, 
when  melted,  drain  the  butter  and  take 
out  the  buttermilk ;  then  put  in  the  but- 
ter two  or  three  spoonfuls  of  good  flour, 
enough  to  make  a  thin  paste :  keep  it  on 
the  fire  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  and 
take  care  not  to  let  it  color ;  pour  it  into 
an  earthen  pan  to  use  when  wanted. 


880.— BEOWN  THICKENING. 
(A  French  Eeceipt) 

Put  into  a  stewpan  a  piece  of  butter 
proportionate  to  the  quantity  of  thick- 
ening intended  to  be  prepared.  Melt  it 
gently ;  take  out  the  buttermilk,  then 
put  flour  enough  to  make  a  paste.  Fry 
it  on  a  slow  fire,  and  then  put  it  again 
over  very  red  ashes,  till  it  be  of  a  nice 

*  This  is  an  indispensable  article  in  cookery,  and 
servos  to  thicken  sauces ;  the  brown  is  for  sauces  of 
the  same  color ;  and  the  color  must  be  obtained  by 
slow  degrees,  otherwise  the  flour  will  burn  and 
give  a  bitter  taste,  and'  the  sauces  become  spotted 
with  black. 


color.  Observe,  this  is  only  to  be  ob- 
tained by  slow  degrees.  When  of  a  light 
brown  pour  it  into  an  earthen  pan  and 
keep  it  for  use.  It  will  keep  a  long 
time. 

881.— LEMON  SAUCE,  WHITE,  FOE  BOILED 
FOWLS. 

Put  the  peel  of  a  small  lemon,  cut 
very  thin,  into  a  pint  of  sweet,  rich 
cream,  with  a  sprig  of  lemon,  thyme,  and 
ten  white  peppercorns.  Simmer  it  gen- 
tly till  it  tastes  well  of  tlje  lemon,  then 
strain  it  and  thicken  it  with  a  quarter  of 
a  pound  of  butter  rubbed  in  a  dessert- 
spoonful of  flour ;  boil  it  up ;  then  pour 
the  juice  of  the  lemon  strained  into  it, 
stirring  well ;  dish  the  fowls,  and  then 
mix  a  little  white  gravy,  quite  hot,  with 
the  cream,  but  do  not  boil  them  together ; 
add  salt  according  to  taste. 

832.— LEMON  SAUCE  FOE  BOILED  FOWLS. 

Cut  small  slices  of  lemon  into  very 
small  dice,  and  put  them  into  melted 
butter,  give  it  one  boil,  and  pour  it  over 
boiled  fowls. 

888.-BEEAD  SAUCE. 

Cut  in  slices  the  crumb  of  a 
French  roll,  to  which  add  a  few  pepper- 
corns, one  whole  onion,  a  little  salt,  and 
boiling  milk  enough  to  cover  it ;  let  it 
simmer  gently  by  the  side  of  the  fire  till 
the  bread  soaks  up  the  milk,  add  a  little 
thick  cream,  take  out  the  onion,  and  rub 
the  whole  through  a  sieve ;  make  it  very 
hot,  and  serve  with  game  or  fowls. 

834— BECHAMEL  SAUCE. 

Take  some  veal  and  ham,  cut  them 
into  dices ;  some  carrots,  cloves,  onions, 
laurel  leaves,  shalots,  parsley,  and  seal- 
lions,  all  chopped  fine;  pepper,  grated 
nutmeg,  a  little  salt  and  butter,  a  little 
veloute  and  consomme,  reduce  it  to  half, 
and  then  put  in  some  cream  ;  mix  it  well 
with  your  sauce,  boil  it  all  together  over 


SAUCES. 


229 


a  quick  fire,  shaking  it  constantly  for  an 
hour  ;  if  thick  enough,  strain  it  through 
a  sieve. 

885.— LIVER  SAUCE. 

Take  the  livers  of  poultry  or  game, 
chop  them  very  small  with  parsley,  seal- 
lions,  tarragon  leaves,  and  shalots ;  soak 
them  in  a  little  butter  over  the  fire,  and 
then  pound  them ;  add  cullis  stock,  pep- 
per and  salt.  Give  the  whole  a  boil  with 
two  glasses  of  red  wine,  coriander,  cin- 
namon, and  sugar ;  reduce  and  strain  it, 
thicken  with  a  bit  of  butter  rolled  in 
flour ;  serve  it  in  a  sauce-boat. 

336.— LIVEE  SAUCE  FOE  BOILED 
CHICKENS. 

Boil  the  livers  till  you  can  bruise  them 
with  the  back  of  a  spoon  ;  mix  them  in 
a  little  of  the  liquor  they  were  boiled  in, 
melt  some  butter  very  smooth  and  put 
to  them ;"  add  a  little  grated  lemon-peel, 
and  boil  up  altogether. 

337.— TEUFFLE  SAUCE. 
Take  a  pound  of  truffles ;  brush  and 
wash  them  carefully ;  put  them  in  a 
stewpan  with  some  good  gravy,  two  wine- 
glasses of  white  wine,  a  small  onion,  a 
faggot  of  parsley  and  thyme,  and  an  ounce 
of  bacon  fat.  Let  them  stew  gently  un- 
til quite  tender;  take  them  out,  strain 
and  skim  the  gravy,  thicken  it  with  roux 
or  a  lump  of  flour  and  butter ;  peel  the 
truffles,  cut  them  in  slices  as  thick  as  a 
penny-piece,  warm  them  in  the  sauce,  and 
serve. 

338.— CHESTNUT  SAUCE. 
Scald  a  score  of  chestnuts  in  hot  water 
for  ten  minutes ;  skin  them ;  let  them 
stew  gently  for  about  half  an  hour  in 
some  good  ^gravy  seasoned  with  a  glass 
of  white  wine,  a  little  white  pepper,  salt, 
and  mace  or  nutmeg;  and  when  quite 
soft,  serve  them  in  the  dish. 
15 


Or  /—Pulp  them  through  a  colander 
to  thicken  the  gravy,  making  it  either 
Irown  or  white,  by  using  in  the  formei 
leef-gravy,  and  in  the  latter  veal-brot^ 
with  pounded  almonds,  and  without 
pepper. 

Either  of  these  is  equally  fit  for  sauce 
to  guinea-bird  or  turkey,  as  well  as  for 
stuffing  the  body  of  the  bird. 

1    839.— SAUCES  FOE  WHITE  POULTEY. 
BOILED. 

Liver-sauce. — Take  the  livers  of  as  many 
fowls  as  may  be  required  for  the  intend- 
ed quantity  of  sauce,  or,  that  of  a  rabbit 
being  much  larger,  take  one  liver,  boil  it 
with  some  sprigs  of  thyme  and  parsley  ? 
dissolve  in  the  water,  after  taking  it  out, 
two  anchovies,  boned;  boil  two  eggs 
hard,  leave  out  one  white,  and  shred  the 
rest  with  the  liver,  herbs,  and  anchovies  ; 
pound  them  together  in  a  mortar,  adding 
a  saltspoonful  of  grated  lemon-peel  and  a 
little  pepper  and  salt.  Put  it  into  the 
saucepan,  squeeze  upon  it  the  juice  of 
half  a  lemon,  thicken  the  liquor  with 
butter  and  a  little  flour,  add  to  it  the 
pounded  ingredients,  and  stir  it  until  fin- 
ished. 

Or: — If  gravy  be  used  instead  of 
water,  and  butter  be  omitted,  the  above 
may  be  properly  employed  as  an  excel- 
lent sauce  for  roasted  rabbit,  or  for  fall- 
grown  poultry. 

340.-WHITE  SAUCE. 

Boil  a  large  blade  of  mace,  a  few  cloves 
and  peppercorns,  in  half  a  pint  of  soft 
water,  until  the  flavor  be  obtained; 
strain  it  off,  pat  it  into  a  saucepan  with 
four  anchovies  chopped  fine,  a  quarter  of 
a  pound  of  butter  rolled  in  flour,  and 
half  a  pint  of  cream:  boil  and  stir  it 
well  two  minutes.  Put  some  in  a  tu- 
reen, and  the  remainder  in  the  dish. 

841.-FOE  CHICKENS. 

Take  the  legs  and  necks,  with  a  small 


230 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


bit  of  the  scrag  of  veal  or  mutton  ;  put 
them  into  a  saucepan  with  two  blades  of 
mace,  a  few  white  peppercorns,  an  an- 
chovy, a  head  of  celery  sliced,  a  bunch  of 
sweet  herbs,  and  a  small  bit  of  lemon- 
peel  ;  boil  these  in  a  quart  of  water  to 
half  a  pint ;  strain,  and  thicken  it  with 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  and  some 
flour ;  boil  it  five  minutes,  then  put  in  two 
spoonfuls  of  mushrooms,  and,  having  beat- 
en up  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  with  a  teacup- 
ful  of  cream,  put  it  into  the  sauce,  and 
keep  shaking  it  one  way  over  the  fire  till 
it  is  nearly  boiling ;  then  put  it  into  a 
sauce-tureen. 

842.— VEGETABLE  MABEOW  SAUCE. 

Few  sauces  are  more  delicate  as  an  ac- 
companiment for  young  chickens,  whether 
roast  or  boiled,  than  vegetable  marrow 
when  deprived  of  its  seeds,  if  stewed  to 
a  pulp  and  passed  through  a  fine  sieve, 
so  as  to  form  it  into  a  puree,  which  may 
be  then  thinned  either  with  fowl-broth 
seasoned  with  mace,  or  with  cream  and 
nutmeg. 

848.— SAUCES  FOE  EOAST  FOWLS. 

Stew  any  moderate  quantity  of  ham, 
veal,  and  mushrooms,  with  sweet  herbs, 
a  shalot,  a  little  allspice,  and  a  piece  of 
butter,  until  all  become  brown ;  then 
let  the  whole  simmer  gently  for  a  long 
time  in  either  weak  broth  or  water,  until 
they  form  a  strong  gravy  ;  strain  it.  and 
season  it  with  any  additional  flavor 
that  may  be  given  by  some  of  the  made 
sauces.  Serve  hot  in  a  sauce-tureen. 

Or: — Put  into  a  small  stewpan  two 
slices  of  ham,  a  clove  of  garlic,  a  laurel- 
leaf,  and  sliced  onion :  add  a  little  good 
gravy,  a  sprig  of  knotted  marjoram,  and 
a  spoonful  of  tarragon  vinegar ;  simmer 
slowly  an  hour,  strain  off,  and  put  into 
the  dish  or  a  boat. 

Or: — Boil  some  veal-gravy,  pepper, 
salt,  the  juice  of  a  Seville  orange  and  a 
lemon,  and  one-quarter  as  much  of  port 


wine  as  of  gravy  j  and  pour  it  into  the 
dish  or  a  boat. 

Or  : — If  wanted  in  a  hurry,  cut  a  few 
slices  of  calf's  liver,  or  any  kind  of  brown 
meat ;  fry  them  with  a  little  lean  bacon 
and  an  onion,  and,  when  browned,  pour 
upon  them  boiling  water  to  what 
strength  you  please,  and  strain  it. 

844— WHITE  SAUCE. 

It  is  seldom  necessary  to  buy  meat  for 
this  favorite  sauce,  as  the  proportion  of 
that  flavor  is  but  small.  The  water  that 
has  boiled  fowls,  veal,  or  rabbit,  or  a 
little  broth  that  may  be  in  the  house,  or 
the  feet  and  necks  of  chickens,  or  raw 
or  dressed  veal,  will  suffice.  Stew  any 
of  these  with  a  little  water,  a  bit  of 
lemon-peel,  some  sliced  onion,  a  few 
white  peppercorns,  a  little  pounded  mace 
or  nutmeg,  and  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs, 
until  the  flavor  be  good ;  then^  strain  it, 
add  a  little  good  cream,  a  piece  of  butter, 
and  a  little  flour :  salt  to  your  taste.  A 
squeeze  of  lemon  may  be  added  after  the 
sauce  is  taken  off  the  fire,  shaking  it 
well.  Yolk  of  egg  is  often  used  in  fric- 
assee ;  but  if  you  have  any  cream  it  is 
better,  as  the  former  is  apt  to  curdle. 

Or: — Boil  a  stick  of  celery  and  a 
bunch  of  parsley  in  a  pint  of  milk,  add- 
ing white  pepper  and  a  little  salt ;  then 
put  two  ounces  of  butter  into  a  sauce- 
pan, let  it  melt,  add  to  it  an  onion  sliced 
thin,  dredge  in  flour  until  it  is  a  paste, 
but  do  not  allow  it  to  become  brown. 
Strain  the  milk,  and  add  it  by  degrees  to 
the  butter  and  flour,  stirring  it  very' 
well ;  then  boil  the  whole  together,  stir- 
ring all  the  time,  and  boiling  it  until  it 
is  quite  thick  and  smooth;  pass  it 
through  a  fine  sieve  or  tammy.  If  want- 
ed to  be  very  rich,  let  it  cool  a  little,  and 
then  add  an  egg  previously  beaten,  and 
mix  very  gradually ;  warm  it  over  the 
fire,  stirring  it  well,  but  do  not  let  it 
boil,  or  it  will  curdle. 


SAUCES. 


231 


Or  : — Mix  a  teaspoonful  of  flour  with 
one-quarter  pound  of  butter,  a  little  salt, 
and  ground  white  pepper ;  let  them  be 
well  blended  together  with  a  wooden 
spoon,  then  add  a  spoonful  of  vinegar, 
and  one  or  two  of  water ;  mix  the  whole 
together,  stirring  it  one  way  over  the 
fire. 

845.— CULLIS. 

Lay  over  the  bottom  of  a  stewpan  as 
much  lean  veal  as  will  cover  it  an  inch 
thick  :  cover  the  veal  with  thin  slices  of 
undressed  gammon,  two  or  three  onions, 
two  or  three  bay-leaves,  some  sweet 
herbs,  two  blades  of  mace,  and  a  few 
cloves.  *Cover  the  stewpan,  and  set  it 
over  a  slow  fire;  but  when  the  juices 
come  out,  let  the  fire  be  a  little  quicker. 
When  the  meat  is  of  a  fine  brown,  fill 
the  pan  with  good  beef  broth,  boil  and 
skim  it,  then  simmer  an  hour;  add  a 
little  water,  mixed  with  as  much  flour  as 
will  make  it  properly  thick  ;  boil  it  half 
an  hour,  and  strain  it.  This  will  keep  a 
week. 

846.— EOUX, 

White. — Put  two  ounces  of  butter  into 
a  stewpan  over  a  slow  fire,  allow  it  to 
melt,  then  drain  off  the  buttermilk: 
make  it  into  a  paste  by  dredging  flour 
over  it,  and  keep  it  on  the  fire  for  a  quar- 
ter of  an  hour,  taking  care  that  it  does 
not  lose  its  color. 

Brown  is  made  in  the  same  manner 
only  allowed  to  fry  of  a  dark  color. 
French  cooks  use  no  other  kind  of 
browning. 

847.-LIAISON. 

To  thicken  or  enrich  White  or  Fish 
Soups,  use  the  following : — Pour  the  soup, 
boiling  hot,  on  the  beaten  yolks  of  two 
or  three  fresh  eggs,  from  which  the  smal 
tough  substance  found  in  it,  and  callec 
"the  tread,"  should  be  removed,  nor 
should  the  soup  be  suffered  to  boil  after 


the  eggs  are  added,  as  it  is  then  apt  to 
curdle. 

Or  : — Break  the  yolk  of  an  egg  with 
three  spoonfuls  of  cream,  beat  them  up 
n  the  tureen  and  pour  the  boiling  soup 
upon  it.  This  may  be  made  in  the  same 
proportion,  and  kept  in  a  basin  for  other 
dishes. 

848.— SAUCE  FOE  FEICANDEAU,  OE  EOAST 
VEAL. 

Boil  an  unwashed  anchovy  cut  small, 
with  a  cup  of  gravy,  a  glass  of  port  wine, 
a  shalot  minced,  and  the  juice  of  half 
a  small  lemon ;  strain,  and  mix  in  the 
dish  with  the  -gravy  of  the  meat.  Or 
use  sorrel  sauce. 

849.— SAUCE  A  LA  MAlTBE  D'H6TEL. 

Put  eight  table-spoonfuls  of  white 
sauce  in  a  stewpan  with  four  of  milk ; 
boil  it  five  minutes,  then  stir  in  three 
ounces  of  mattre  d'hotel  butter ;  stir  it 
quickly  over  the  fire  till  the  butter  is 
melted,  but  do  not  let  it  boil.  This 
sauce  should  be  made  atr  the  time  of 
serving. 

850.— SAUCES  FOE  GEESE. 

For  a  Green  Goose.— Take  half  a  pint 
of  sorrel-juice,  two  glasses  of  white  wine, 
a  nutmeg  quartered,  a  cupful  of  fried 
crumbs,  and  two  lumps  of  sugar ;  let  all 
boil  together,  then  beat  it  smooth,  add- 
ing a  piece  of  fresh  butter,  and  serve  it 
very  hot  in  a  tureen,  or  in  the  dish  with 
the  goose.  It  should  not  be  made  too 
thick  with  the  bread-crumbs;  and  if 
much  acid  should  not  be  approved,  the 
wine  must  be  equal  in  quantity  to  the 
sorrel-juice. 

851.— GOOSEBEEEY  SAUCE. 

Wash  some  sorrel,  put  it  into  a  cloth 
and  press  out  the  juice ;  melt  a  piece  of 
butter  with  flour,  using  this  juice  instead 
of  water;  let  it  be  very  thick.  Scald 
green  gooseberries  until  very  tender,  and 


232 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


add  them  to  the  sauce.  This  is  a  fine 
acid  sauce  if  not  spoiled  with  sugar.  If 
not  sweetened  add  a  little  cayenne  pep- 
peiv 

852.— APPLE  SAUCE. 

Pare,  core,  and  slice  some  apples  ;  and 
put  them  in  a  stone  jar,  into  a  saucepan 
of  water,  or  on  a  hot  hearth.  If  on  a 
hearth,  let  a  spoonful  or  two  of  water  be 
put  in  to  hinder  them  from  burning. 
When  they  are  done,  bruise  them  to  a 
mash,  and  put  to  them  a  piece  of  butter 
the  size  of  a  nutmeg,  and  a  little  brown 
sugar  if  required;  but  it  destroys  the 
slight  acid  flavor  of  the  apples,  and  its 
corrective  to  goose  and  pork. 

858.— SAVOEY  APPLE  SAUCE. 

Pulp  the  apples,  and,  if  wanted  of  a 
good  color,  add  to  them  a  little  juice  of 
beet-root  or  cochineal :  season  with  cay- 
enne pepper,  and  a  glass  of  vinegar  or 
lemon-pickle,  taking  care  not  to  make  it 
too  acid.  This  will  prove  a  substitute 
for^tomato  qr  sorrel  sauce,  when  neither 
can  be  obtained ;  if  for  the  latter,  a  little 
spinach-juice  will  give  it  a  color. 

854.— SAUCE  FOE  DUCKLINGS. 

Take  young  green  onions  or  chives ; 
chop  them  very  small,  then  put  them 
into  some  thick  melted  butter,  with  pep- 
per, salt,  and  a  spoonful  of  lemon-pickle ; 
stir  it  well  together,  and,  when  very  hot, 
put  it  into  the  dish  with  the  ducks  upon 
it.  Should  the  flavor  of  the  onions  be 
thought  too  strong,  they  may  be  scalded 
previously. 

Or : — Mix  one-quarter  pint  of  sorrel- 
juice,  a  glass  of  white  wine,  some  scalded 
gooseberries,  some  white  sugar,  and  a 
bit  of  butter.  Boil  them  up  and-  serve 
in  a  boat. 

•  t 

855.— SAUCE  FOE  SUCKING-PIG. 

Take  the  inside  of  a  French  roll  and 
boil  it  to  a  pulp,  along  with  an  onion  and 


a  little  salt ;  chop  the  brains  and  put 
them  into  a  teacupful  of  the  gravy  that 
runs  from  the  pig ;  then  take  as  much 
butter  as  will  be  sufficient  for  the  sauce, 
and  put  into  it  a  goo4d  squeeze  of  lemon, 
with  half  a  glass  of  white  wine. 

Some  cooks  make  a  stuffing  for  the 
pig  in  nearly  the  same  manner,  only 
making  it  with  less  butter  and  more 
bread,  besides  sometimes  seasoning  it 
with  sage. 

856.— CUEEANT  SAUCE. 

Clean  an  ounce  of  currants,  and  boil 
them  in  one-half  pint  of  water  for  a  few 
minutes,  pour  the  whole  over  a  teacup- 
ful of  bread-crumbs;  let  it  soak,  and 
then  add  a  piece  of  butter  rolled  in  flour, 
four  or  six  cloves,  and  a  glass  of  port 
wine ;  beat  it  a  little,  and  stir  it  over  the 
fire  until  it  is  quite  smooth.- 

85T.— SAUCES  FOE  WILD-FOWL.    (English.) 

A  teaspoonful  of  made  mustard,  the 
same  of  essence  of  anchovies  and  red 
pepper ;  a  tablespoonful  of  ketchup,  and 
a  glass  of  claret.  This  receipt  is  from 
the  Palace,  and  comes  highly  recom- 
mended. 

Or  : — Simmer  a  teacupful  of  port  wine, 
the  same  quantity  of  good  meat  gravy, 
a  little  shalot,  a  little  pepper,  salt,  a  grate 
of  nutmeg,  and  a  bit  of  mace,  for  ten, 
minutes :  put  in  a  bit  of  butter  and  flour, 
give  it  all  one  boil,  and  pour  it  through 
the  birds.  In  general  they  are  not  stuff- 
ed, but  may  be  done  so  if  liked. 

Or: — Mince  some  shalots  very  fine, 
put  them  into  a  small  saucepan  with 
some  peppercorns,  two  tablespoon  fuls  of 
strong,  clear  gravy,  and  the  same  quan- 
tity of  vinegar ;  when  sufficiently  boiled 
add  a  little  salt,  and  strain  it  through  a 
sieve.  It  may  be  served  either  hot  or 
cold. 

858.— WHITE  SAUCE.    (Soyer's.) 

Cut  and  chop  a  knuckle  of  veal  weigh- 


SAUCES. 


233 


ing  about  four  pounds,  into  large  dice; 
also  half  a  pound  of  lean  bacon;  butter 
the  bottom  of  a  large  stewpan  with  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter ;  add  two 
onions,  a  small  carrot,  a  turnip,  three 
cloves,  half  a  blade  of  mace,  a  bouquet  of 
a  bay-leaf,  a  sprig  of  thyme,  and  six  of 
parsley ;  add  a  gill  of  water ;  place  over 
a  sharp  fire,  stirring  round  occasionally, 
until  the  bottom  of  the  stewpan  is  cover- 
ed with  whitish  glaze ;  then  fill  up  with 
three  quarts  of  water ;  add  a  good  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  and  let  it  simmer  at  the 
corner  of  the  fire  an  hour  and  a  half, 
keeping  it  well  skimmed ;  pass  it  through 
a  hair  sieve  into  a  basin.  In  another 
stewpan  put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  but- 
ter, with  which  mix  six  ounces  of  flour, 
stirring  over  the  fire  about  three  minutes ; 
take  oif,  keep  stirring  until  partly  cold, 
when  add  the  stock  all  at  once,  contin- 
ually stirring  and  boiling  for  a  quar- 
ter of  an  hour ;  add  half  a  pint  of  boil- 
ing milk ;  stir  a  few  minutes  longer,  add 
a  few  chopped  mushrooms ;  if  handy,  pass 
through  a  hair  sieve  into  a  basin,  until  re- 
quired for  use,  stirring  it  round  occasion- 
ally until  cold.  The  above  being  a  sim- 
plified white  sauce,  will  be  referred  to 
very  often  in  receipts. 

859.— BEOWN  SAUCE.  (Soyer's.) 
Put  two  ounces  of  butter  into  a  stew- 
pan ;  rub  it  over  the  bottom ;  peel  two 
or  three  large  onions ;  cut  them  in  thick 
slices ;  lay  them  on  the  bottom ;  cut  in- 
to small  pieces  about  two  pounds  of 
knuckle  of  veal,*  all  meat,  or  three 
pounds  if  with  bone;  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  lean  bacon,  cut  small,  two  cloves, 
a  few  peppercorns,  a  table-spoonful  of 
salt,  two  bay-leaves,  a  gill  of  water ;  set 
it  on  a  brisk  fire ;  let  it  remain  ten  min- 
utes, when  stir  it  well  round,  subdue  the 
fire,  let  it  remain  twenty  minutes  longer, 

*  Half  veal  and  beef  can  be  used;  or  if  no  veal, 
all  beef. 


and  stir  now  and  then  until  it  has  a  nice 
brown  color;  fill  your  pan  with  three 
quarts  of  water ;  when  boiling,  set  it  on 
the  corner  of  the  stove,  with  the  lid  three 
parts  on  the  saucepan;  when  boiling, 
skim  fat  and  all ;  after  one  hour,  or  one 
hour  and  a  half  simmering,  pass  it  through 
a  sieve  into  a  basin.  To  make  the  thick- 
ening or  Eoitxfor  it,  proceed  as  follows : 
— Roux.  Put  two  ounces  of  butter  into 
a  pan,  which  melt  on  a  slow  fire,  then 
add  three  ounces  of  flour,  stir  it  with  a 
wooden  spoon  until  getting  a  thin  deep 
yellow  color ;  this  in  France  is  called  Roux, 
being  very  useful  in  cookery,  and  will  be 
often  referred  to  in  these  receipts.  This 
process  will  take  ten  minutes,  when  re- 
move from  the  fire  for  two  minutes  to 
cool ;  then  add  at  once  three  pints  and  a 
quarter  of  the  above  stock ;  very  quickly 
set  it  on  the  fire  to  boil ;  remove  it  to  the 
corner  to  simmer,  and  skim.  It  ought  to 
be  entirely  free  from  grease,  and  of  a  light 
chestnut  color. 

860.— DEMI-GLAZE— THIN  BEOWN  SAUCE 
FOE  MADE  DISHES.  • 

When  I  have  a  small  dinner-party,  I 
always,  as  I  told  you  before,  make  small 
quantities  of  white  and  brown  sauce  as 
above,  but  this  is  a  nice  way  of  clarifying 
a  brown  sauce  without  much  trouble,  and 
makes  it  a  beautiful  transparent  brown 
color ;  but  although  I  have  made  it  quite 
a  study  that  each  entree,  or  made  dish 
for  daily  use,  should  make  its  own  sauce, 
yet  I  must  impress  upon  you  that  this 
sauce  is  the  real  key  to  cooking  a  good 
and  ceremonious  dinner.  Put  a  pint  of 
brown  sauce,  in  a  middle-sized  stewpan ; 
add  to  it  half  a  pint  of  broth  or  consom- 
me, put  it  on  the  stove,  stir  with  wooden 
spoon,  let  it  boil  as  fast  as  possible,  take 
the  scum  oflf  which  will  rise  to  the  sur- 
face ;  reduce  it  until  it  adheres  lightly  to 
the  spoon,  pass  it  through  a  sieve  or  tarn- 
my  into  a  basin ;  stir  now  and  then  until 
cold,  to  prevent  a  skin  forming  on  the  top ; 


234 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


put  it  by  until  wanted  for  use.  It  will 
keep  for  a.  week  in  winter,  by  adding  half 
a  gUl  of  white  broth  every  other  day,  and 
giving  it  a  boil ;  the  addition  of  a  table- 
spoonful  of  tomato  sauce  gives  it  a  beau- 
tiful color ;  use  where  indicated. 

861.— THIN  BKOWN  SAUCE  OP  MUSH- 
BOOMS. 

Put  twelve  table-spoonfuls  of  thin 
brown  sauce  in  a  small  stewpan  to  boil, 
then  have  six  or  eight  small  mushrooms, 
well  cleaned  and  washed,  chop  them  fine, 
and  place  in  sauce,  and  boil  for  five  min- 
utes; taste  if  it  is  to  your  liking;  the 
addition  of  a  little  sugar  is  an  improve- 
ment ;  a  little  cayenne,  if  liked,  may  be 
introduced.  The  sauce  is  good  for  cutlets, 
broiled  fowl,  and  game,  &c. 

862.— ESCHALOT  SAUCE. 

Chop  fine  about  a  good  table-spoonful 
of  eschalot,  place  it  in  the  corner  of  a 
napkin,  and  pour  water  over ;  press  un- 
til dry,  and  put  in  a  small  stewpan  with 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  vinegar,  one  clove, 
a  little  mace ;  boil  two  minutes,  add  ten 
table-spoonfuls  of  demi-glaze,  boil  a  little 
longer,  add  a  little  sugar,  and  serve. 

863.— PIQUANT  OB  SHARP  SAUCE. 
Put  two  table-spoonfuls  of  chopped 
onions,  or  eschalots,  cleaned  as  above,  into 
a  stewpan  ;  put  also  four  table-spoonfuls 
of  vinegar,  and  a  bay-leaf,  and  boil ;  then 
add  ten  table-spoonfuls  of  brown  sauce, 
half  a  one  of  chopped  parsley,  ditto  of 
green  gherkins  ;  boil  five  minutes ;  skim, 
add  a  little  sugar,  taste  if  well  seasoned, 
take  out  bay-leaf  and  serve. 

864.— TAEEAGON  SAUCE.  (Soyer's.) 
Put  eight  table-spoonfuls  of  demi-glaze, 
and  four  of  broth,  into  a  stewpan ;  boil 
for  a  few  minutes ;  add  a  table-spoonful 
of  vinegar;  have  ready  picked  twenty 
leaves  of  fresh  tarragon ;  put  in  to  sim- 


mer two  minutes,  and  serve  with  any 
kind  of  poultry,  but  especially  spring 
chickens. 

365.— BKOWN  CUCUMBEE  SAUCE. 

*  Peel  a  small  fresh  cucumber ;  cut  it  in 
neat  pieces ;  put  in  a  stewpan  with  a  lit- 
tle sugar ;  add  half  an  ounce  of  butter ; 
set  it  on  a  slow  fire ;  stir  it  now  and 
then ;  add  twelve  table-spoonfuls  of  brown 
sauce,  and  eight  of  broth ;  let  it  simmer 
till  tender ;  skim  the  butter  off;  remove 
the  cucumber  into  another  stewpan ;  pass 
the  sauce,  reduce  it  a  little,  taste  it,  pour 
over,  and  serve. 

866.— MINCE  HEEB  SAUCE. 
Put  two  table-spoonfuls  of  finely  chop- 
ped onions  in  a  stewpan,  and  a  table- 
spoonful  of  oil ;  place  it  on  the  fire ;  stir 
a  few  minutes,  add  ten  table-spoonfuls  of 
demi-glaze,  and  four  of  broth  or  water ; 
boil,  skim;  if  too  thick,  and  the  scum 
should  not  rise,  add  half  a  gill  of  broth 
or  water ;  boil,  and  reduce  to  a  proper 
thickness,  and  add  a  table-spoonful  of 
chopped  parsley  ;  if  at  hand,  one  of  mush- 
rooms, and  season  with  a  little  cayenne  ; 
the  juice  of  a  quarter  of  a  lemon ;  serve. 
I  often  introduce  a  little  garlic  in  this. 

867.— EOBEKT  SAUCE.  (Soyer's.) 
Peel  and  cut  up  two  good-sized  onions ; 
put  them  in  a  stewpan  with  an  ounce  of 
butter,  till  they  are  a  nice  yellow  color ; 
then  add  eight  table-spoonfuls  of  demi- 
glaze,  and  two  of  water  or  broth ;  skim, 
boil  quickly ;  when  of  a  proper  thickness 
add  a  good  table-spoonful  of  French  mus- 
tard ;  season  rather  high ;  if  no  French 
mustard,  use  English,  but  it  completely 
changes  the  flavor,  though  still  very  pal- 
atable. 

868.-EAVIGOTE  SAUCE. 

Put  in  a  stewpan  one  middle-sized 
onion  sliced,  with  a  little  carrot,  a  little 


SAUCES. 


235 


thyme,  bay-leaf,  one  clove,  a  little  mace, 
a  little  scraped  horseradish,  a  little  but- 
ter ;  fry  a  few  minutes,  then  add  three 
teaspoonfuls  of  vinegar,  ten  table-Spoon- 
fuls of  brown  sauce,  four  of  broth ;  when 
boiling,  skim,  add  a  table-spoonful  of  cur- 
rant jelly ;  when  melted,  pass  all  through 
a  tammy,  and  serve  with  any  kind  of 
meat  or  poultry;  with  hare  or  venison 
it  is  excellent. 

869.— BEOWN  MUSHEOOM  SAUCE. 
Clean  and  cut  twelve  small  mushrooms 
in  slices  ;  place  them  in  a  stewpan  with 
a  little  butter,  salt,  pepper,  the  juice  of  a 
quarter  of  a  lemon ;  set  it  on  a  slow  fire 
for  a  few  minutes,  then  add  ten  spoonfuls 
of  demi-glaze ;  boil  till  they  arc  tender,  and 
serve.  &  little  mushroom  ketchup  may 
be  introduced. 

370.— OEANGE  SAUCE  FOE  GAME. 
Peel  half  an  orange,  removing  all  the 
pith ;  cut  it  into  slices,  and  then  in  fillets ; 
put  them  in  a  gill  of  water  to  boil  for 
two  minutes  ;  drain  them  on  a  sieve, 
throwing  the  water  away ;  place  in  the 
stewpan  two  spoonfuls  of  demi-glaze,  or 
ten  of  broth ;  and,  when  boiling,  add  the 
orange,  a  little  sugar ;  simmer  ten  min- 
utes, skim,  and  serve.  The  juice  of  half 
an  orange  is  an  improvement.  This  is 
served  with  ducklings  and  water  fowl: 
those  that  like  may  add  cayenne  and 
mustard. 

871.— GAELIC  SAUCE. 
Though  many  dislike  the  flavor  of  this 
root,  yet  those  that  like  it  ought  not  tc 
be  deprived  of  it.  Put  in  a  stewpan  ten 
table-spoonfuls  of  demi-glaze,  a  little 
tomato  sauce,  if  handy ;  boil  it  a  few  min- 
utes, scrape  half  a  clove  of  garlic,  put  it 
in  with  a  little  sugar,  and  serve. 

8T2.— MINT  SAUCE.  FOE  LAMB. 

Take  three  table-spoonfuls  of  choppec 
leaves  of  green  mint,  three  table-spoon- 


uls  of  brown  sugar,  and  put  into  a  basin, 
with  half  a  pint  of  brown  vinegar ;  stir 

t  well  up,  add  one  salt-spoonful  of  salt, 
and  serve. 

873.— LIAISON  OF  EGGS. 
Break  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  in  a  ba- 
in, with  which  mix  six  spoonfuls  of  milk, 
or  eight  of  cream ;  pass  it  through  a  fine 
sieve,  and  use  when  directed. 

874.— ANCHOVY  BUTTEE  SAUCE. 

Put  into  a  stewpan  eight  spoonfuls  of 
demi-glaze,  or  three  of  broth ;  when  boil- 
ing, add  one  ounce  of  anchovy  butter ;  stir 
continually  till  melted ;  serve  where  di- 
rected. 

875.-SOYEE'S  SAUCE. 

Put  six  spoonfuls  of  demi-glaze  into  a 
stewpan ;  when  hot,  add  four  spoonfuls 
of  Soyer's  Brown  Sauce ;  let  boil,  and 
serve  with  either  chop,  steak,  cutlet,  poul- 
try, or  game. 

876.— PAPILLOTTE  SAUCE. 

Scrape  half  an  ounce  of  fat  bacon,  put 
it  in  a  pan  with  four  table-spoonfuls  of 
chopped  onions ;  stir  over  the  fire  for  a  few 
minutes,  then  add  ten  table-spoonfuls  of 
brown  sauce  and  boil ;  then  add  a  table- 
spoonful  of  mushrooms  chopped,  one  ditto 
of  parsley,  a  little  nutmeg,  a  little  pepper 
and  sugar,  a  quarter  of  a. clove  of  scraped 
garlic;  reduce  till  rather  thickish;  put 
on  dish  till  cold,  and  use  it  for  any  thing 
you  may  put  up  "  en  Papillotte." 

877.— TOMATO  SAUCE.  (Soyer's.) 
if  fresh,  put  six  in  a  stewpan;  having 
removed  the  stalk,  and  squeezed  them  hi 
the  hand  to  remove  pips,  &c.,  add  half  an 
onion,  sliced,  a  sprig  <of  thyme,  a  bay- 
leaf,  half  an  ounce  of  celery,  one  ounce 
of  ham  or  bacon,  same  of"  butter,  teaspoon- 
ful  of  sugar,  same  of  salt,  a  quarter  one 
of  pepper,  set  on  fire  to  stew  gently  j 


236 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


when  all  tender,  add  a  table-spoonful  of 
flour,  moisten  with  half  a  pint  of  broth, 
boil  five  minutes  ;  add  a  little  cayenne, 
taste  if  highly  seasoned,  pass  it  through 
sieve  or  tammy,  put  it  back  in  stewpan, 
until  it  adheres  rather  thick  to  the  back 
of  the  spoon,  and  use  it  for  any  kind  of 
meat  or  poultry.  If  preserved  tomato, 
proceed  as  for  poivrade  sauce,  respecting 
the  vegetables,  omitting  the  vinegar,  and 
adding  the  tomato,  instead  of  the  brown 
sauce,  with  a  table-spoonful  of  flour  and 
broth  to  bring  it  to  a  proper  thickness ; 
pass  it  through  a  sieve,  and  serve  as 
above. 

878.- CURRY  SAUCE.    (Soyer's.) 

Put  into  a  pan  four  good-sized  onions, 
sliced,  and  two  peeled  apples,  with  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  the  same  of 
lean,  ham,  a  blade  of  mace,  four  pepper- 
corns, two  bay-leaves,  two  sprigs  of 
thyme ;  stir  them  over  a  moderate  fire 
until  the  onions  become  brown  and  ten- 
der, then  add  two  table-spoonfuls  of  the 
best  curry  powder,  one  of  vinegar,  two 
of  flour,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  of  su- 
gar ;  moisten  it  with  a  quart  of  broth  or 
milk,  or  even  water,  with  the  addition  of 
a  little  glaze ;  boil  till  in  a  pulp,  and  ad- 
hering rather  thickly  to  the  back  of  the 
spoon ;  pass  all  through  -a  fine  sieve  or 
tammy  j  give  it  another  boil  for  a  few 
minutes,  put  it  in  a  basin,  and  use  when 
required.  Any  kind  of  meat,  poultry, 
and  fish,  or  parts  of  game,  are  excellent 
warmed  in  this  sauce,  and  served  with 
well  boiled  and  dry  rice.  I  have  kept 
this  sauce  in  a  cool  place  in  the  winter 
for  a  month,  boiling  it  now  and  then. 
The  quantity  of  powder  may  be  omitted, 
and  a  spoonful  of  curry  paste  used,  or 
some  mangoes. 

879.— A  VEEY  GOOD  AND  USEFUL  WHITE 
SAUCE— (quite  new.) 

Put  a  quart  of  white  sauce  in  a  stew- 
pan  of  a  proper  size  on  a  fire ;  stir  con- 


tinually until  reduced  to  one-third ;  put 
two  yolks  of  eggs  in  a  basin,  stir  them 
well  up,  add  your  sauce  gradually,  keep 
stirring,  put  back  in  stewpan,  set  it  to 
boil  for  a  few  minutes  longer,  then  add 
one  pint  of  boiling  milk,  which  will 
bring  it  to  its  proper  thickness ;  that  is, 
when  it  adheres  transparently  to  the 
back  of  a  spoon ;  pass  through  a  tammy 
into  a  basin,  stir  now  and  then  till  cold. 
If  not  immediately  required,  and  I  have 
any  stock  left,  I  use  half  of  it  with  half 
of  milk.  I  also  try  this  way,  which  is 
very  convenient ;  when  the  yolks  are  m, 
and  well  boiled,  I  put  it  in  a  large  galli- 
pot, and  when  cold,  cover  with  pieces  of 
paper  j  it  will  keep  good  in  winter  for 
two  or  three  weeks,  and  above  a  week  in 
summer:  when  I  want  to  use  a. little  of 
it,  I  only  take  a  spoonful  or  two  and 
warm  it  on  the  fire,  and  add  enough 
milk  or  white  broth  to  bring  it  to  a 
proper  thickness,  and  use  when  required. 
This  sauce  is  very  smooth,  and  never 
turns  greasy  j  it  lies  beautifully  on  fowl, 
or  any  white  made  dish  j  the  addition  of 
a  drop  of  cream  gives  it  a  very  fine  white 
appearance. 

880.— ONION  PUREE  SAUCE. 
Peel  and  cut  six  onions  in  slices ;  put 
in  a  stewpan,  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  butter,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt;  one  of 
sugar,  a  half  one  of  pepper ;  place  on  a 
slow  fire  to  simmer  till  in  a  pulp,  stir- 
ring them  now  and  then  to  prevent  them 
getting  brown,  then  add  one  tablespoon- 
ful  of  flour,  a  pint  of  milk,  and  boil  till 
a  proper  thickness,  which  should  be  a 
little  thicker  than  melted  butter ;  pass 
through  a  tammy,  warm  again,  and  serve 
with  mutton  cutlets,  chops,  boiled  rab- 
bits, or  fowl  3  by  not  passing  it,  it  will 
do  for  roast  mutton  and  boiled  rabbit  as 
onion  sauce. 

331.— PUREE  OF  CAULIFLOWER  SAUCE. 

Boil  a  cauliflower  well  in  three  pints 


SAUCES. 


237 


of  water,  in  which  you  have  previously 
put  one  ounce  of  butter,  one  tablespoon- 
ful  of  salt ;  when  done,  chop  it  up,  hav- 
ing prepared  and  slowly  cooked  in  a 
stewpan  an  onion  sliced,  a  little  celery, 
half  a  turnip,  one  ounce  of  ham,  two  of 
butter,  a  little  bay-leaf,  mace,  add  then 
the  cauliflower,  stir  round,  add  a  table- 
spoonful  of  flour,  moisten  as  above  for 
onions,  pass,  and  finish  the  same  way. 
It  may  be  made  of  Jerusalem  artichoke 
or  turnip. 

3S2.— BEOWN  SHAEP  SAUCE,  OE  POI- 
VEADE.— (French  Eeceipt.) 

Put  a  small  bit  of  butter,  a  small  car- 
rot cut  into  dice,  a  few  shalots  cut  in  the 
same  way,  some  parsley  roots,  six  green 
onions,  some  parsley,  a  few  slices  of  ham, 
a  clove,  a  little  thyme,  the  half  of  a  bay- 
leaf,  a  few  grains  of  peppercorn  and  all- 
spice, with  a  little  mace,  in  a  small  stew- 
pan.  Let  the  stewpan  be  put  on  a  slow 
fire,  till  it  begins  to  be  of  a  fine  brown 
all  round;  then  keep  stirring  with  a 
wooden  spoon ;  pour  into  the  stewpan 
four  spoonfuls  of  white  vinegar  and  a 
small  bit  of  sugar.  Let  this  reduce 
nearly  to  a  glaze;  then  moisten  with 
some  Spanish  sauce  and  a  little  consom- 
me, that  you  may  be  enabled  to  take  the 
fat  off  from 'the  sauce ;  season  with  cay- 
enne and  a  little  salt.  Taste  whether  it 
be  salt  enough,  but  observe  that  it 
should  not  be  too  acid ;  skim  off  the  fat, 
and  strain  the  sauce  through  a  tammy, 
and  serve  up.  When  this  sauce  is  well 
made,  not  too  thick,  and  of  good  color, 
it  is  good  with  the  following  entrees : — 
Cotelettes  Maintenon,  broiled  chicken, 
broiled  pigeon,  fried  chicken,  marinades 
of  all  sorts,  such  as  calf  s  feet,  lamb's 
ears,  trotters,  calf's  head,  and  generally 
with  every  thing  requiring  tart  sauces 
You  may  add  to  it  a  little  preserved  to- 
matoes, to  give  a  good  color  and  sharp 
taste. 


383.— WHITE  CUCUMBEE  PUEEE. 

Peel  two,  or  one  large  one,  cut  in  slices, 
put  in  the  stewpan  with  the  same  veg- 
tables,  &c.  as  for  the  cauliflower;  when 
tender,  add  a' table-spoonful  of  flour,  four 
gills  of  milk  or  broth,  boil,  finishing  as 
the  cauliflower. 

884.-SOEEEL  SAUCE,  OE  PUEEE. 

Wash  well  six  handfuls  of  sorrel,  put 
it  nearly  dry  into  a  middle-sized  stewpan 
with  a  little  butter ;  let  it  melt,  add  a  ta- 
ble-spoonful of  flour,  at  easpoonful  of  salt, 
half  one  of  pepper ;  moisten  to  a  thick 
puree,  with  milk,  or  broth,  or  cream; 
pass  it  through  a  sieve,  put  it  back  in  a 
stewpan,  warm  again,  add  two  whole 
eggs,  two  ounces  of  butter,  and  stir  well, 
and  serve  where  directed. 

885.— SPINAGE  PUEEE. 

Endive  puree  is  often  used  in  France, 


Spice  Box. 

and  called  chicoree.  This  puree  may  be 
made  like  the  cauliflower,  or  only  plain 
boiled,  plainly  chopped,  put  into  a  pan 
with  two  ounces  of  butter,  a  gill  of  white 
sauce,  a  little  grated  nutmeg,  and  a  little 
salt,  pepper,  and  sugar. 

886.— INDIA-PICKLE  SAUCE. 

Take  some  gravy,  thicken  with  flour 
and  butter ;  cut  in  small  dice  some  In- 
dia-pickle, add  a  little  of  the  vinegar, 
let  it  boil  up,  throw  in  the  dice^  and 
serve  hot.  This  is  for  salmon  cutlets  j 


238 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


it  is  also  good  for  broiled  mackerel  or 
for  grilled  chicken. 

88T.-SAUCE  PIQUANTE. 

Put  into  a  stewpan  the  muscles  of  a 
knuckle  of  veal,  some  slices  of  ham  or 
bacon,  a  cupful  of  gravy,  a  spoonful  or 
two  of  strong  vinegar,  a  bay -leaf,  a  clove 
of  garlic,  a  little  thyme,  one  clove,  and  a 
littlo  salt;  skim  it,  and,  when  it  has 
stewed  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  pass  it 
through  a  sieve  :  then  add  sorrel,  parsley, 
and  mushrooms,  all  chopped  fine,  and 
whole  capers  ;  heat  it  again,  and  serve  it 
in  the  dish. 

Or : — Put  one  or  two  ounces  of  but- 
ter, with  two  shred  onions,  a  carrot,  a 
parsnip,  a  little  thyme,  laurel,  basil,  two 
cloves,  two  shalots,  a  clove  of  garlic,  and 
some  parsley,  into  a  stewpan ;  turn  the 
whole  over  the  fire  till  it  becomes  brown, 
then  shake  in  some  flour,  and  moisten  it 
with  some  broth  and  a  spoonful  of  vine- 
gar. Let  it  boil  over  a  slow  fire ;  skim 
and  strain  it ;  then  add  pepper  and  salt ; 
and  serve  with  any  dish  of  which  you 
would  wish  to  have  the  flavor  heightened. 

388.— A  L'ESPAGNOLE-{or  Spanish  Sauce.) 

Besides  a  few  slices  of  ham  and  veal, 
put  into  a  stewpan  any  remains  which 
you  may  have  of  poultry  and  game,  and 
let  them  boil  for  one  hour  in  water  more 
than  sufficient  to  cover  them;  after 
which  skim  off  the  fat  from  the  gravy, 
add  fried  onions,  sweet  herbs,  a  bay-leaf, 
spice,  mace,  and  mushrooms,  with  minced 
carrots,  celery,  shalots,  and  a  small 
clove  of  garlic,  and  leave  the  whole  to 
stew  until  quite  mashed:  it  will  take 
full  two  hours.  Then  strain  it,  and  if 
the  gravy  be  not  strong  enough  add  suf- 
ficient coulis  or  glaze  to  make  it  so.  If 
it  wants  flavor,  add  soy,  and  if  mush- 
rooms have  not  been  one  of  the  ingredi- 
ents, put  in  ketchup :  if  not  thick  enough, 
a  little  arrowroot,  or  common  flour,  with 


a  piece  of  butter,  will  have  the  effect  J 
but  if  the  gravy  be  truly  rich,  it  will  not 
require  the  addition. 

Such  is  the  foundation  of  the  sauce ; 
but  in  most  cases  white  wine  is  added, 
for  the  purpose  of  stewing  game :  it  is 
needless  to  say  that  Madeira  and  sherry 
are  best,  but  Cape  or  ginger  wine  will 
be  found  good  substitutes. 

889.— SAUCE,  1  LA  PKOVENQALE. 

Put  into  a  casserole  two  spoonfuls  of 
sweet  oil,  a  shalot,  a  clove  of  garlic,  and 
some  mushrooms,  all  minced,  and  placed 
upon  the  fire  in  any  sort  of  good  strong 
broth,  seasoned  with  pepper  and  salt,  to- 
gether with  pot-herbs  ;  leave  it  there  for 
half  an  hour ;  then  skim  it  so  far  as  to 
remove  much  of  the  appearance  of  the 
oil ;  strain  ifr,  and  add  some  white  wine 
to  suit  the  taste. 

890.-SAUCE  MAIGEE. 

Fry  a  large  quantity  of  onions  and  put 
them  along  with  the  above  into  the  casse- 
role, with  white  wine,  until  well  brown- 
ed ;  then  strain  it ;  add  a  table-spoonful 
of  salad-oil  with  a  little  flour,  and  mix 
it  gently,  but  continually,  for  a  few  min- 
utes, until  completely  mingled.  » 

891.— A  L'  HOLLAND AISE, 

For  meat,  fowl,  or  fish.  Put  six 
spoonfuls  of  water  and  two  of _ tarragon 
vinegar,  With  one  ounce  of  butter,  into 
a  stewpan ;  warm  and  thicken  it  with 
the  yolks  of  two  eggs.  Make  it  quite 
hot,  but  do  not  boil  it ;  stir  it  all  the 
time;  squeeze  in  the  juice  of  half  a 
lemon,  and  strain  it  through  a  sieve. 
Season  with  salt  and  cayenne.  It  should 
be  quite  thick. 

.892.— SPINACH  SAUCE. 

Pick  off  the  stalks  of  the  spinach ; 
wash  and  drain  it ;  then,  without  water, 
stew  till  it  will  beat  to  a  mash.  Put  in 


SAUCES. 


239 


a  good  piece  of  butter  and .  some  milk ; 
simmer,  and  stir  over  a  slow  fire  till  the 
sauce  be  of  the  consistence  of  thick  melt- 
ed butter.  Add  a  little  pepper  and  salt 
while  dressing. 

893.— PUEEE  OF  CUCUMBEES. 

Slice  thin  some  middling-sized  cucum- 
bers, drain  the  liquor  from  them,  and 
put  them,  with  four  onions,  into  a  stew- 
pan,  with  a  piece  of  butter ;  when  suffi- 
ciently stewed  to  pulp  through  a  col- 
ander, add  a  large  teacupful  of  cream,  a 
little  flour  and  pepper.  Boil  twenty 
minutes  and,  when  going  to  serve^  put 
in  salt. 

894.— SAUCE  1  LA  SAINTE  MENEHOULD. 

Put  some  butter  into  a  stewpan,  shake 
over  it  a  little  flour;  add  a  cupful  of 
cream,  parsley,  young  onions,  one-half  a 
bay-leaf,  and  a  shalot.  Put  it  on  the 
fire,  keeping  it  stirred.  Then  pass  it 
through  a  sieve :  put  it  on  the  fire  again 
with  some  chopped  parsley,  a  little  pep- 
per, and  minced  mushrooms.  Serve  it 
over  beiled  fowls. 

895.— LA  MAGNONNAISE. 

Perhaps  the  most  esteemed  mode  of 
making  sauce  for  any  sort  of  cold  meats 
or  fish  is  that  known  in  France  by  this 
title. 

Put  into  a  round-bottomed  basin  the 
yolk  oF  an  egg  and  a  pinch  6f  salt ;  stir 
in  very  quickly,  drop  by  drop,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  sweet  oil,  working  the  spoon 
very  rapidly  round,  to  work  in  the  oil ; 
when  it  is  thick  add  a  few  drops  of  tar- 
ragon vinegar,  then  more  oil,  until  there 
is  sufficient  sauce ;  thin  it  with  a  little 
more  vinegar.  It  should  be  quite  thick, 
and  rather  acid. 

896.— CAEACHI. 

Take  one  head  of  garlic  and  cut  each 
clove  into  two  pieces  j  two  teaspoonfuls 


of  cayenne  pepper,  three  tablespoonfula 
of  soy,  three  of  mushroom  ketchup, 
three  of  walnut  pickle,  six  anchovies  dis- 
solved, two  or  three  spoonfuls  of  man- 
goe  or  India  pickle  liquor,  and  a  pint  of 
the  best  vinegar,  with  sufficient  cochi- 
neal to  color. 

Both  the  above  are  thus  sauces  mai- 
gres,  but  when  not  intended  for  fast-days, 
may  be  much  improved  by  being  made 
into  a  puree  with  an  admixture  of  melt- 
ed calf's-foot  jelly. 

897.— SAUCE  EOYALE 

Is  made  by  cutting  a  slice  of  white 
bread,  and  stewing  it  in  white  broth 
until  it  is  quite  thick ;  then  take  it  off 
the  fire ;  pound  in  a  mortar  the  yolks  of 
two  hard-boiled  eggs,  and  half  a  dozen 
almonds  reduced  to  paste,  with  the  breast 
of  a  cold  roast  fowl ;  mix  this  with  the 
eggs  and  bread,  and  pound  them  all  to- 
gether with  a  little  pepper  and  salt; 
add  a  sufficient  quantity  of  cream  to 
make  it  of  a  proper  consistence,  and  sim- 
mer the  whole  over  the  fire,  stirring  it 
all  the  time  without  letting  it  boil. 

898.-SAUCE  1  LA  EEINE 

Is  nearly  the  same.  Bruise  the  breast 
of  a  chicken  to  a  paste,  and  moisten  it 
with  a  consomme  of  veal  or  fowl  broth ; 
let  it  stew  gently  over  a  slow  fire,  and 
then  pas*  it  through  the  tamis  and  mix 
with  it  some  bechamel  sauce.  Then 
have  ready  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  beaten 
up  with  a  large  spoonful  of  thick  cream, 
and  stir  the  mixture  into  the  sauce  a 
minute  or  two  before  serving  it  up. 

Both  the  above  are  served  at  the  most 
fashionable  tables,  and  may  be  used  with 
turkey-poults  and  guinea-birds. 

899.— THE  OEIGINAL  OUDE  SAUCE 
Is   made  with  two  ounces  of  butter 
put  into  a  stewpan;  when  melted  add 
six  onions  shred;  as  soon  as  they  begin 


240 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


to  take  color,  put  in  one  and  a  half  dozen 
of  chilis  chopped  fine ;  stir  it  well  to- 
gether for  four  minutes,  then  put  in  a 
small  quantity  of  dried  salt  fish,  not  ex- 
ceeding two  square  inches,  chopped  very 
fine;  keep  stirring,  and,  as  the  butter 
dries,  add  a  large  cupful  of  the  pulp  of 
fresh  tomatoes,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  the 
juice  of  a  lemon,  and  a  little  water ;  mix 
the  whole  very  well  together,  and  let  it 
be  of  the  consistence  of  a  paste,  though 
not  too  dry.  It  is  eaten  with  cold  meat, 
but  will  not  keep. 

400.— CHETNEY  AND  QTJIHI  SAUCtf..- 

Take  eight  ounces  of  sharp  apples 
pared  and  cored,  eight  ounces  of  toma- 
toes, eight  ounces  of  salt,  eight  ounces  of 
brown  sugar,  eight  ounces  of  raisins, 
four  ounces  of  red  chilis,  four  ounces  of 
ginger  powdered,  two  ounces  of  garlic, 
and  two  ounces  of  shalots.  Pound  all 
these  ingredients  separately  in  a  mortar, 
using  cayenn3  pepper  if  chilis  are  not  to 
be  had.  Mix  the  whole  together,  and 
add  three  quarts  of  vinegar  and  one 
quart  of  lemon-juice.  Place  the  jar  con- 
taining this  composition  on  a  stove,  or 
by  the  side  of  a  fire  in  a  heat  not  less 
than  one  hundred  and  thirty  degrees 
Fahrenheit,  and  stir  it  twice  a-day  for  a 
month ;  then  strain,  but  do  not  squeeze 
it  dry.  Bottle  the  liquor,  which  is  an 
excellent  sauce  for  any  kind  of  fish  or 
meat,  hot  or  cold.  A  teaspodbful1  will 
impart  a  fine  flavor  to  any  ragout,  or  be 
sufficient  for  a  pint  of  broth.  The  resi- 
due, which  is  the  chetney,  should  be 
put  into  pots  or  jars.  It  may  also  be 
used  in  sauces  and  gravies,  or  eaten  like 
mustard,  with  cold  meat,  or  spread  upon 
grills,  being  an  excellent  ingredient  for 
devils,  wet  or  dry. 

401.— YEAL  GEAVY,  OR  BLOND  OF 
VEAL.  (Ude.) 

Put  a  few  slices  of  Westmoreland  ham 
(the  lean  only)  into  a,  pretty  thick  stew- 


pan,  and  lay  over  them  some  fleshy  pieces 
of  veal.  The  rump  may  be  used.  Pour 
into  the  stewpan  a  sufficient  quantity  of 
stock-broth  to  cover  about  half  the  thick- 
ness of  the  meat.  Let  it  sweat  on  a  stove 
over  a  brisk  fire.  Watch  the  stewpan 
and  the  contents  for  fear  of  burning. 
When  the  broth  is  reduced,  thrust  a 
knife  into  the  meat,  that  all  the  gravy 
may  run  out ;  then  stew  the  glaze  more 
gently.  When  the  whole  is  absolutely 
glazed,  of  a  good  color,  let  it  stew  till 
brown,  but  take  care  it  does  not  burn,  to 
prevent  which,  put  it  on  red-hot  ashes. 
Keep  stirring  the  stewpan  over  the  firer- 
that  the  glaze  may  be  all  of  the  same 
color,  and  turn  the  meat  upside  down, 
that  it  may  not  stick,  When  the  glaze 
is  of  a  dark-red  color,  moisten  with  some 
hot  broth,  and  let  the  glaze  detach  before 
the  stewpan  is  put  on  the  fire,  for  it  might 
still  burn.  Season  with  mushroomg  and 
a  bunch  of  parsley  and  green  onions. 
When  the  gravy  has  boiled  for  two  hours, 
it  will  be  done.  Take  off  the  fat,  and 
strain  it  through  a  silken  sieve.  ..^ 

402.— THE  CULLIS— (a  Brown  Jelly.) 

Make  the  cullis  in  the  same  manner  as 
veal  gravy,  with  slices  of  ham  and  slices  ' 
of  veal,  &c.  When  the  glaze  is  of  a  nice 
color,  moisten  it,  and  let  it  stew  entirely. 
Season  it  with  a  bunch  of  parsley  and 
green  onions,  mushrooms,  &c.  Then  mix 
some  brown  thickening  with  Tie  veal 
gravy,  but  do  not  make  it  too  thick,  as 
the  fat  could  not  be  got  out  of  the  sauce ; 
and  a  sauce  with  fat  has  neither  a  pleas- 
ing appearance  nor  a  good  flavor.  Let  it 
boil  for  an  hour  on  the  corner  of  the 
stove;  skim  off  the  fat,  and  strain  it 
through  a  tammy,  &c. 

403.— SAUCE  TOURNEE.* 

Take  some  white  thickening,  dilute  it 

*  Sauce  tournee  is  the  sauce  that  the  moder* 
cooks  call  velout6 ;  but  veloute,  properly  so  called 
will  be  found  hereafter. 


SAUCES. 


241 


with  some  consomme  or  broth  of  fowl ; 
neither  too  thin  nor  too  thick.  A  sauce 
when  too  thick  will  never  admit  of  the 
fat  being  removed.  Let  it  boil  on  the 
corner  of  the  stove.  Throw  in  a  few 
mushrooms,  with  a  bunch  of  parsley  and 
green  onions.  Skim  it  well,  and  when 
there  is  no  grease  left,  strain  it  through 
a  tammy,  to  use  when  wanted. 

404.— SAUCE  1  L'  ALLEMANDE.— (German 
Sauce.) 

This  is  the  same  as  the  last  sauce,  with 
the  addition  of  a  thickening*  of  eggs  well 
seasoned.  This  sauce  is  always  used  for 
the  following  sauces  or  ragouts,  viz., 
""blan.quettes,  or  white  fricassees,  of  all  des-t 
criptions,  of  veal,  of  fowl,  of  game,  or  pal- 
ates, ragout,  loin  of  veal,  with  bechamel, 
&c.,  &c. 

405.— THE  VELOUTE. 

*  Take  about  the  same  quantity  of  stock- 
broth,  arid  sauce  tournee,  and  boil  them 
down  over  a  large  fire.  When  this  sauce 
ilvery  thick,  have  some  thick  cream  boil- 
ing and  reduced,  which  pour  into  the 
'  sauce,  and  give  it  a  couple  of  boilings  ; 
season  with  a  little  salt,  and  strain  through 
a  tammy.  If  the  ham  should  be  too  salt, 
put  in  a  little  sugar.  Observe,  that  this 
sauce  is  net  to  be  so  thick  as  the  becha- 
mel. 

406.— VELOUTE,  OE  BECHAMEL,  A  NEW 
METHOD.    (Ude.) 

Put  into  a  stewpan  a  knuckle  of  veal, 
some  slices  of  ham,  four  or  five  pounds 
of  beef,  the  legs  and  loin  of  a  fowl ;  all 
the  trimmings  of  meat  or  game  that  you 
have,  and  moisten  with  boiled  water  suffi- 
cient to  cover  half  the  meat;  make  il 
sweat  gently  on  a  slow  fire,  till  the  meat 
'  is  done  through ;  this  you  may  ascertain 
by  thrusting  your  knife  into  it ;  if  no 

*  This  thickening  is  what  is  called  in  French,  lia 
Ison ;  the  yolks  of  two  or  four  eggs. 


)lood  follows,  it  is  time  to  moisten  with 
soiling  water  sufficient  to  cover  all  the 
meat.  Then  season  with  a  bundle  of 
Darsley  and  green  onions,  a  clove,  half  a 
my -leaf,  thyme,  a  little  salt,  and  trim- 
mings of  mushrooms.  When  the  sauce 
las  boiled  long  enough  to  let  the  knuckle 
:>e  well  done,  skim  off  all  the  fat,  strain 
t  through  a  silken  sieve,  and  boil  down 
this  consomme  till  it  is  nearly  a  glaze ; 
next  take  four  spoonfuls  of  very  fine  flour, 
dilute  it  with  three  pints  of  very  good 
cream,  in  a  stewpan  big  enough  to  con- 
tain the  cream,  consomme,  flour,  &c.  j 
boil  the  flour  and  cream  on  a  slow  fire. 
When  it  boils,  pour  in  the  consomme, 
and  continue  to  boil  it  on  a  slow  fire  if 
the  sauce  be  thick,  but  on  the  contrary, 
if  the  sauce  be  thin,  on  a  quick  fire,  in 
order  to  thicken  it.  Season  with  salt, 
but  put  no  pepper.  No  white  sauce  ad- 
mits pepper,  except  when  you  introduce 
into  it  something  chopped  fine.  Pepper 
appears  like  dust,  and  should  therefore 
be  avoided.  This  sauce  should  be  very 
thick.  Put  it  into  a  white  basin  through 
a  tammy,  and  keep  it  in  the  larder  out  of 
the  dust. 

This  sauce  is  the  foundation,  if  I  may 
so  speak,  of  all  sorts  of  little  sauces, 
where  white  sauces  are  preferred.  It 
should  always  be  kept  very  thick,  as  you 
can  thin  it  whenever  you  please,  either 
with  stock-broth  or  with  cream.  If  too 
thin,  it  could  not  be  used  for  so  many 
purposes. 

40T.— CAPEK  SAUCE  1  LA  FRANQAISE. 

Take  some  capers,  cut  them  small,  put 
some  essence  of  ham  into  a  small  sauce- 
pan with  some  pepper ;  let  it  boil  ;  then 
put  in  the  capers ;  let  them  boil  two  or 
three  times,  and  they  are  ready  to  serve. 

40S.-CAPER  SAUCE,  TO  IMITATE. 

Boil  some  parsley  very  slowly  to  let 
it  become  of  a  bad  color ;  then  cut  it  up, 


242 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


but  do  not  chop  it  fine ;  put  it  into  melt- 
ed butter,  with  a  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
and  a  dessert-spoonful  of  vinegar;  boil 
up,  and  then  serve. 

409.— CAPEE  SAUCE  FOE  MEAT. 

Take  some  capers,  chop  half  of  them 
very  fine,  and  put  the  rest  in  whole ; 
then  chop  some  parsley  with  a  little 
grated  bread,  and  put  to  it  some  salt ; 
put  them  into  butter  melted  very  smooth, 
let  them  boil  up,  and  then  pour  them 
into  a  sauce-boat. 

410.— TOMATO  SAUCE  FEANgAISE. 

Cut  ten  tomatoes  into  quarters  and 
put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  four  on- 
ions sliced,  a  little  parsley,  thyme,  one 
clove,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  but- 
ter ;  set  the  saucepan  on  the  fire,  stirring 
occasionally,  for  three-quarters  of  an 
hour  ;  strain  the  sauce  through  a  horse- 
hair sieve,  and  serve  with  the  directed 
articles. 

411.-TOMATOES,  GAENITUEE  OF. 

Take  thirty  tomatoes,  all  as  near  of  a 
size  as  possible,  and  of  a  good  form,  cut 
them  in  halves,  press  out  the  juice,  seeds, 
and  pieces  by  the  side  of  the  stalk,  but 
do  it  with  great  care,  lest  the  skins 
should  be  injured ;  make  a  farce  as  fol- 
lows : — take  a  little  ham,  garlic,  parsley, 
shalots,  champignons  shred,  the  yolks  of 
two  hard  boiled  eggs,  crumb  of  bread, 
an  anchovy,  butter,  salt,  nutmeg,  and  all- 
spice ;  give  all  these  a  boil,  then  pound 
them  well,  adding  at  times  a  little  oil, 
strain  it  through  a  quenelle  sieve;  fill 
the  tomatoes  with  this  farce,  place  them 
on  a  baking  tin,  cover  them  with  grated 
bread  crumbs  and  Parmesan  cheese, 
moisten  them  with  a  little  oil,  and  bake 
them  in  a  hot  oven  ;  serve  the  tomatoes 
as  a  garnish  to  a  rump  of  beef,  or  any 
other  joint  you  may  think  proper. 


412.— TOMATO  SAUCE  1  L'lTALlENNE. 

Take  five  or  six  onions,  slice,  and  put 
them  into  a  saucepan  with  a  little  thyme, 
bay-leaf,  twelve  tomatoes,  a  bit  of  but- 
ter, salt,  half  a  dozen  allspice,  a  little 
Indian  saffron,  and  a  glass  of  stock  ;  set 
them  on  the  fire,  taking  care  to  stir  it 
frequently,  as  it  is  apt  to  stick ;  when 
you  perceive  the  sauce  is  thick  strain  it 
Like  a  puree. 


KETCHUPS. 

413.— MUSHEOOM  KETCHUP. 

Take  the  full  grown  flaps  of  mush- 
rooms, wipe  them  clean,  crnsh  them  with 
the  hands,  throw  in  a  handful  of  salt  with 
every  peck  of  mushrooms,  and  let  them 
stand  all  night;  then  put  them  into 
stewpans,  and  set  them  in  a  quick  oven 
for  twelve  hours ;  strain  them  through  a 
hair  sieve  and  press  out  all  the  juice. 
To  every  gallon  of  liquor  put  of  cloves, 
Jamaica  and  black  pepper,  and  of  ginger, 
one  ounce  each,  and  half  a  pound  of 
common  salt.  Set  it  on  a  slow  fire  and 
let  it  boil  until  half  the  liquor  is  wasted, 
then  put  it  into  a  clean  china  vessel,  and 
when  cold  bottle  it. 

Another  mode  of  making  mushroom 
ketchup,  is  to  take  a  stewpan  full  of  the 
large  flap  mushrooms  that  are  not  worm 
eaten,  and  the  skins  and  fringe  of  those  • 
you  have  pickled ;  throw  a  handful  of 
salt  among  them,  and  set  them  by  a  slow 
fire.  They  will  produce  a  great  deal  of 
liquor,  which  you  must  strain,  and  put 
to  it  four  ounces  of  shalots,  two  cloves 
of  garlic,  an  ounce  of  pepper,  a  table- 
spoonful  of  ginger,  mace,  and  cloves; 
boil  the  liquor  slowly  and  skim  it  well. 
When  cold,  bottle  and  cork  it  close.  In 
two  months  boil  it  again  with  a  little 
additional  spice,  and  a  stick  of  horse- 
radish,— it  will  then  keep  a  year ;  which 
mushroom  ketchup  rarely  does,  if  not 
boiled  a  second  time. 


KETCHUPS. 


243 


414.-WALNUT  KETCHUP. 

Take  six  half-sieves  of  green  walnut- 
shells,  put  them  into  a  tub,  mix  them  up 
well  with  common  salt,  (from  two  to 
three  pounds,)  let  them  stand  for  six 
days,  frequently  beating  and  mashing 
them ;  by  this  time  the  shells  become 
soft  and  pulpy.  Then  by  banking  it  up 
on  one  side  of  the  tub,  and  at  the  same 
time  by  raising  the  tub  on  that  side,  the 
liquor  will  drain  clear  off  to  the  other ; 
then  take  that  liquor  out ;  the  mashing 
and  banking  up  may  be  repeated  as  often 
as  liquor  is  found.  The  quantity  will  be 
about  six  quarts.  When  done  let  it  be 
simmered  in  an  iron  boiler  as  long  as  any 
scum,  arises  ;  then  bruise  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  ginger,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
allspice,  two  ounces  of  long  pepper,  two 
ounces  of  cloves,  with  the  above  ingredi- 
ents ;  let  it  .slowly  boil  for  half  an  hour. 
When  boiled,  let  an  equal  quantity  of 
the  spice  go  into  each  bottle  ;  when  cork- 
ed, let  the  bottle  be  filled  quite  up  ;  cork 
them  tight,  seal  them  over,  and  put  them 
into  a  cool  and  dry  place  for  one  year 
before  they  are  used. 

415.— TOMATO  KETCHUP. 

Take  six  pounds  of  tomatoes,  sprinkle 
them  with  salt  and  let  them  remain  for 
a  day  or  two,  then  boil  them  until  the 
skins  will  separate  easily;  pour  them 
into  a  colander  or  coarse  sieve,  and  press 
them  through,  leaving  the  skins  behind ; 
put  into  the  liquor  a  pint  of  Chili  vinegar, 
half  a  pint  of  wine,  pepper,  cloves,  ginger 
and  allspice ;  boil  them  together  until  a 
third  part  has  wasted— bottle  them  tight. 
The  ketchup  must  be  shaken  before  it  is 
used.  If  it  is  boiled  down  to  one-third, 
and  the  corks  sealed,  it  will  be  much 
richer,  and  keep  for  years. 

416.— SAUCE  FOE  CHOPS  AND  STEAKS. 

Pound  together  in  a  mortar  one  ounce 
of  black  pepper,  half  an  ounce  of  allspice, 
one  ounce  of  salt,  half  an  ounce  of  horse- 


radish scraped,  half  an  ounce  of  eschalots. 
Pour  on  this  half  a  pint  of  mushroom  ket- 
chup, and  half  a  pint  of  walnut  pickle. 
Infuse  for  a  fortnight,  and  strain  for  use. 

41T.-NASTUETIAN  SAUCE 

Is  eaten  with  boiled  mutton.  It  is 
made  with  the  green  seeds  of  nasturtians, 
pickled  simply  in  cold  vinegar.  Cut  about 
six  ounces  of  butter  into  small  bits,  and 
put  them  into  a  small  saucepan.  Mix 
with  a  wine-glass  of  water  sufficient  flour 
to  make  a  thick  batter,  pour  it  on  the 
butter,  and  hold  the  saucepan  over  hot 
coals,  shaking  it  quickly  round,  till  the 
butter  is  melted.  Let  it  just  boil  up,  and 
then  take  it  from  the  fire.  Thicken  it 
with  the  pickled  nasturtians,  and  send  it 
to  table  in  a  boat. 

418.-CEANBEEEY  SAUCE. 

This  sauce  is  very  simply  made.  A 
quart  of  cranberries  is  washed  and  stew- 
ed with  sufficient  water  to  cover  them ; 
when  they  burst  mix  with  them  a  pound 
of  brown  sugar,  and  stir  them  well.  Be- 
fore you  remove  them  from  the  fire,  all 
the  berries  should  have  burst.  When 
cold  they  will  be  jellied,  and  if  thrown  into 
a  form  while  warm,  will  turn  out  whole. 

419.-CELEET  SAUCE. 

Wash  and  pare  a  bunch  of  celery,  cut 
it  into  pieces,  and  boil  it  gently  until  it 
is  tender ;  add  half  a  pint  of  cream,  and 
a  small  piece  of  butter  rolled  in  flour; 
now  boil  it  gently.  This  is  a  good  sauce 
for  fowls  of  all  kinds,  either  roasted  or 
boiled. 


FAECES  AM)  STUFFINGS. 

420.  -PANADA. 

Put  into  a  small  stewpan  one  ounce  of 
fresh  butter,  a  table-spoonful  of  chopped 
mushrooms,  a  little  chopped  thyme  and 


244: 


THE  PRACTICAL  HOUSEKEEPER. 


parsley,  half  a  blade  of  mace,  pepper  and 
salt ;  stew  the  whole  over  the  fire  for  a  few 
minutes,  then  add  to  it  a  spoonful  of  white 
broth,  the  crumb  of  two  Drench  rolls 
previously  soaked  in  milk  and  squeezed 
thoroughly  dry ;  stir  over  the  fire  until 
it  no  longer  adheres  to  the  stewpan; 
take  it  off,  add  the  yolks  of  two  eggs, 
turn  it  out  and  leave  it  to  cool  j  it  is  then 
ready  for  use. 

421.-UDDER. 

Boil  a  calf  s  udder  in  broth  or  water ; 
when  cold  trim  off  the  outside :  pound 
and  rub  through  a  sieve. 

422.-QUENELLE. 

This  is  one  of  the  most  delicate  prepa- 
rations of  forcemeat  that  we  have,  and 
requires  practice,  care  and  attention  to 
make  it  in  perfection.  It  is  called  accord- 
ing to  the  meat  of  which  it  is  composed ; 
quenelles  of  rabbit,  chicken,  fish,  or  game. 

Take  the  meat  of  two  rabbits,  pound  it 
and  rub  it  through  a  sieve ;  take  the  same 
quantity  of  panada,  and  also  of  udder  or 
very  sweet  fresh  butter,  pound  these  in- 
gredients for  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  add  a 
table-spoonful  of  white  sauce,  two  eggs, 
and  two  yolks ;  take  a  small  piece,  roll 
it  in  a  ball,  and  throw  it  in  boiling  water ; 
when  done  it  should  cut  firm  and  consist- 
ent, yet  light  and  delicate ;  if  more  sea- 
soning is  required  it  should  be  added  be- 
fore H  is  taken  out  of  the  mortar. 

To  mould  them :  have  two  table-spoons, 
fill  one  with  the  farce,  shape  with  a  knife, 
dipping  it  in  boiling  water  to  make  it 
perfectly  smooth ;  dip  the  other  spoon  in 
hot  water,  with  which  take  out  the  que- 
nelle and  lay  it  in  a  buttered  stewpan ; 
they  should  be  egg-shaped,  and  perfectly 
smooth,  and  boiled  for  a  quarter  of  an 
hour. 


428.— PANADA  FOE  FISH  QUENELLE,  OE 
FOECEMEAT. 

Put  two-thirds  of  half  a  pint  of  water 


into  a  stewpan  holding  a  quart,  with 
nearly  one  ounce  of  butter ;  when  boiling, 
stir  in  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  flour ;  keep 
it  moving  over  the  fire  until  it  forms  a 
smooth  and  tough  paste.  Take  it  off  the 
fire,  add  the  yolks  of  three  eggs.  When 
cold,  use  it  where  directed. 

424.— FOECEMEAT. 

Take  equal  quantities  of  cold  chicken, 
veal,  and  beef,  shred  very  small,  and 
mixed  together ;  season,  at  the  same  time, 
with  a  moderate  quantity  of  pepper,  salt, 
sweet  herbs,  and  grated  nutmeg — that  is 
to  say,  if  intended  for  white  meat,  or  for 
any  thing  delicately  flavored ;  but  if  meant 
for  a  savory  dish,  add  a  little  mpced 
ham,  and  an  atom  of  garlic  or  a  shalot. 
Put  the  whole  in  a  stone  mortar,  and 
pound  it  until  quite  fine,  then  make  it 
into  a  paste  with  a  raw  egg,  some  butter, 
marrow,  or  fat  of  some  kind.  When 
used,  it  may  either  be  rolled  into  round 
balls  and  fried  for  any  made  dish,  or  put 
into  any  joint  of  meat  or  poultry  as  stuf- 
fing ;  and  if  kept  in  a  cool  place,  and  well 
seasoned,  it  will  keep  goocl  for  several 


Indeed,  ~by  mixing  with  any  potted  meat 
or  game  an  equal  proportion  of  panada, 
which  will  always  be  lighter  than  bread- 
crumbs, the  cook  will  have  at  once  a  very 
fine  species  of  farce,  to  be  employed  in 
stuffing  olives,  fillets  of  fowl,  &c. 

The  "  farce  "  is  sometimes  a  delicious 
preparation  of  sausage-meat,  and  is  served 
up  alone  ;  but  it  enters  into  the  composi- 
tion of  numerous  other  dishes. 


425.— ANOTHEE  FOECEMEAT. 

Take  a  pound  and  a  half  of  lean  veal, 
pound  it,  and  pass  it  through  a  sieve ; 
one  pound  of  chopped  bsef  suet,  and  six 
ounces  of  panada,  pounded  well  together ; 
add  the  veal,  season  with  pepper,  salt, 
and  a  little  nutmeg ;  mix  well ;  then  add 
the  yolks  of  six  eggs  and  the  whites  of 


FARCES    AND    STUFFINGS. 


245 


three ;  when  these  are  thoroughly  mixed, 
whisk  the  other  three  whites  of  eggs  to  a 
very  stiff  froth,  and  add  it  to  the  force- 
meat ;  when  all  is  well  mixed  together,  it 
is  fit  for  use. 

426.— FAKCE  CUITE. 

Cut  in  small  pieces  some  undressed 
fowl ;  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  a  piece 
of  butter,  a  little  salt,  pepper,  and  a  little 
nutmeg ;  shake  them  over  the-  fire  for  ten 
minutes,  drain,  and  let  them  cool.  Put 
an  equal  portion  of  crumbs  of  bread  in 
the  same  stewpan  with  some  broth,  and 
a  little  parsley  chopped  fine ;  stir  it  with 
a  wooden  spoon  till  it  becomes  quite  soft. 
Let  it  get  cold,  then  pound  the  fowl  until 
it  will  pass  through  a  tamis ;  pound  the 
bread  also,  and  put  it  through  the  sieve ; 
then  put  equal  parts  of  the  meat,  butter, 
and  bread  together,  and  pound  them  with 
yolks  of  eggs  sufficient  to  make  it  into  a 
proper  consistence,  and  keep  it  in  a  jar 
for  use. 

427.— FAECE  OF  HAM  AND  VEAL. 

Mince  equal  quantities  of  ham  and  veal. 
a  bunch  of  parsley,  and  some  pepper; 
put  it  on  the  fire  with  a  little  broth ;  let 
it  stew  very  gently,  then  pound  it  in  a 
mortfir;  add  to  it  an  equal  portion  of 
bread  soaked  in  milk  and  pounded ;  pound 
the  whole  together  with  some  butter,  and 
mix  it  with  the  yolks  of  eggs. 

Bacon  and  veal  which  have  been  used 
in  braising,  or  any  thing  highly  impreg- 
nated with  the  flavor  of  herbs  and  onions, 
and  very  rich,  may  be  employed  after- 
wards as  a  farce,  pounded  and  mixed 
with  panada.* 

428.— STUFFING. 

Take  equal  quantities  of  beef  suet  and 
crumbs  of  bread;  chop  the  suet  very 
finely;  chop  together  marjoram,  thyme, 
and  parsley,  having  as  much  parsley  as 

*  Farce  for  pies. 

16 


there  is  thyme  and  marjoram  together ; 
add  to  them  a  salt-spoonfui  of  grated 
lemon  peel,  pepper,  salt,  and  a  little 
grated  nutmeg;  add  eggs  sufficient  to 
bind  it  together. 

429.— SEASONING  FOE  STUFFING. 
One  pound  of  salt  dried  and  sifted,  half 
an  ounce  of  ground  white  pepper,  two 
ounces  of  dried  thyme,  one  ounce  of  dried 
marjoram,  and  one  ounce  of  nutmeg. 
When  this  seasoning  is  used,  parsley 
only  is  required  to  be  chopped  in  suffi- 
cient quantity  to  make  the  stuffing  green. 
The  proportions  are — half  a  pound  of 
bread-crumbs,  three  eggs,  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  suet,  half  an  ounce  of  season- 
ing, and  peel  of  half  a  lemon  grated. 

480.— FOECEMEAT. 

Shred  a  little  ham  or  gammon,  some 
cold  veal  or  fowl,  some  beef  suet,  a  small 
quantity  of  onion,  some  parsley,  very 
little  lemon-peel,  salt,  nutmeg,  or  pounded 
mace,  and  either  white  pepper  or  cayenne, 
and  bread  crumbs.  Pound  it  in  a  mor- 
tar, and  bind  it  with  one  or  two  eggs, 
beaten  or  strained.  Fo*r  forcemeat  pat- 
ties, the  mixture  as  above. 

431.-FOE  HAEE,  OE  ANY  THING   IN  IMI- 
TATION OF  IT. 

The  scalded  liver,  an  anchovy,  some 
fat  bacon,  a  little  suet,  some  parsley, 
thyme,  knotted  marjoram,  a  little  shalot, 
and  either  onion  or  chives,  all  chopped 
fine ;  crumbs  of  bread,  pepper,  and  nut- 
meg, beat  in  a  mortar  with  an  egg. 

432.— FISH  FOECEMEAT. 

Chop,  and  afterwards  pound  in  a  mor- 
tar, any  kind  of  fish,  adding  an  anchovy 
or  two,  or  a  tea-spoonful  of  the  essence 
of  anchovies,  but  do  not  allow  the  taste 
to  prevail,  and  the  yolk  of  a  hard-boiled 
egg.  If  for  maigre^  pound  butter  with 
it ;  but  otherwise,  the  fat  of  bacon  pound- 
ed separately,  and  then  mixed.  Add  a 


246 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


third  portion  of  bread,  prepared  by  soak- 
ing and  pounding  previously,  and  mix 
the  whole  up  with  raw  eggs.  For  mack- 
erel, pike,  haddock,  and  soles,  take  the 
veal  forcemeat,  add  a  little  anchovy  es- 
sence, and  use  rather  less  herbs. 

438.— OYSTER  FOECEMEAT. 
Take  a  dozen  oysters,  strain  them  from 
the  liquor,  mince  them,  and  add  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  finely  grated  bread-crumbs, 
one  ounce  and  a  half  of  butter  broken 
very  small,  a  dessert-spoonful  of  parsley, 
the  grated  rind  of  half  a  lemon ;  season 
with  a  little  mace,  cayenne,  and  salt; 
mix  well;  then  bind  together  with  the 
yolk  of  an  egg  unbeaten,  and  a  little  of 
the  oyster  liquor.  Care  must  be  taken 
that  the  oyster  flavor  predominates. 

484— FOKCEMEAT  BALLS  FOE  SOUP 
MAIGEE. 

Forcemeat  balls  for  maigre  soups  of 
any  description  should  be  always  used  to 
compensate  for  the  savor  of  which  they 
are  deprived  by  the  want  of  meat-broth  ; 
and  may  be  made  of  fish  and  sweet  herbs, 
or  only  of  herbs»and  crumbs  of  bread,  in 
the  following  manner : — 

Pound  in  a  mortar  the  soft  parts  of  a 
crawfish,  or  a  few  shrimps,  with  an  an- 
chovy, and  the  yolk  of  a  hard-boiled  egg, 
beaten  up  with  crumbs  of  stale  bread, 
pounded  mace,  cayenne  pepper,  salt,  and 
a  very  little  finely  minced  garlic.  Then 
work  it  up  into  a  paste  with  a  raw  egg  to 
bind  it  into  dough ;  roll  it  out,  cut  it  into 
small  balls  of  the  size  of  marbles,  and 
fry  them  of  a  fine  brown.  ' 

Or: — Leave  out  the  fish,  and  make 
them  entirely  of  bread  and  savory  chop- 
ped herbs — chervil,  tarragon,  marjoram, 
and  thyme,  with  a  little  garlic  and  a 
shalot — and  bind  them  up  as  above,  with 
egg,  butter,  and  crumbs  of  bread. 

Or : — Chop,  and  afterwards  pound  in  a 
mortar,  any  kind  of  fish,  adding  an  an- 
chovy or  two,  or  a  tea-spoonful  of  the  es- 


sence of  anchovies,  but  do  not  allow  the 
taste  to  prevail,  and  the  yolk  of  a  hard- 
boiled  egg :  pound  butter  with  it ;  add  a 
third  portion  of  bread,  prepared  by  soak- 
ing and  pounding  previously,  and  mix  the 
whole  up  with  raw  eggs. 

Or : — Beat  the  flesh  and  soft  parts  of  a 
middling-sized  lobster,  half  an  anchovy, 
a  large  piece  of  boiled  celery,  the  yolk  of 
a  hard  egg,  a  little  cayenne,  mace,  salt, 
and  white  pepper,  with  two  table-spoon- 
fuls of  bread-crumbs,  one  ditto  of-  oyster 
liquor,  two  ounces  of  butter  warmed,  and 
two  eggs  long  beaten:  make  into  balls, 
and  fry  of  a  fine  brown  in  butter. 

Or : — Take  a  few  shrimps,  stripped  of 
their  shells,  an  anchovy,  and  the  yolk  of 
a  hard-boiled  egg,  with  bread-crumbs  and 
seasoning  as  above,  but  adding  some 
finely  minced  sweet  herbs,  and  omitting 
the  oyster  liquor :  make  all  this  into  a 
paste  with  a  little  butter  and  a  raw  egg, 
made  up  in  balls  and  fried  as  before. 

Or : — Instead  of  making  the  balls  of 
fish  and  frying  them,  it  is  a  more  simple 
way  to  make  them  merely  of  bread- 
crumbs, hard-boiled  egg,  and  sweet  herbs 
seasoned  with  raw  egg:  drop  the  balls, 
one  by  one,  into  the  boiling  soup  a  few 
minutes  before  serving.  Two  eggs  and  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  bread  should  make 
twelve  or  fifteen  balls. 

Or : — Pound  in  a  mortar,  into  a  smooth 
substance,  an  anchovy,  the  yolk  of  a 
hard-boiled  egg,  a  head  of  boiled  celery, 
and  some  sweet  herbs,  with  a  couple  of 
table-spoonfuls  of  bread-crumbs,  seasoned 
with  mace,  a  grating  of  nutmeg,  cayenne, 
and  salt ;  then  add  two  ounces  of  butter 
melted,  and  work  it  into  a  paste  with  a 
little  flour  and  the  yolk  of  a  raw  egg ; 
make  it  into  balls  the  size  of  marbles, 
and  fry  them  quite  brown. 

485.— FOECEMEAT  FOE  TUETLE.— (As  at  the 
Bush,  Bristol.) 

One  pound  of  fine  fresh  suet,  one  pound 


FARCES   AND    SEASONING. 


247 


of  ready-dressed  veal  or  chicken  chopped 
fine,  crumbs  of  bread,  a  little  shalot  or 
onion,  salt,  white  pepper,  nutmeg,  mace, 
pennyroyal,  parsley,  and  lemon-thyme 
finely  shred;  beat  as  many  fresh  eggs, 
yolks  and  whites  separately,  as  will  make 
the  above  ingredients  into  a  moist  paste ; 
roll  into  small  balls,  and  boil  them  in 
fresh  lard,  putting  them  in  just  as  it  boils 
up.  When  of  a  light  brown,  take  them 
out,  and  drain  them  before  the  fire.  If 
the  suet  be  moist  or  stale,  a  great  many 
more  eggs  will  be  necessary. 

Balls  made  this  way  are  remarkably 
light ;  but  being  greasy,  some  people  pre- 
fer them  with  less  suet  and  eggs.  They 
may  therefore  be  made  thus : — Chop  up 
the  materials  with  a  little  white  pepper 
and  salt,  a  sage  leaf  or  two  scalded  and 
finely  chopped,  and  the  yolk  of  an  egg ; 
make  them  into  small  cakes  or  fritters, 
and  fry  them. 

486.— EISSOLES  OF  ALL  KINDS. 
Chop  some  dressed  chicken  or  veal 
very  fine,  fry  a  little  chopped  parsley, 
shalot,  and  mushrooms,  very  fine,  and  a 
little  slice  of  tongue  or  ham  or  not,  fry 
them  in  one  ounce  of  butter  a  few  min- 
utes, stirring  it  with  a  wooden  spoon  all 
the  time ;  dry  the  butter  up  with  flour, 
then  add  a  few  small  spoonfuls  of  good 
veal  stock,  a  gill  of  cream, -three  spoon- 
fuls of  bechamel  sauce;  now  put  in  all 
your  chopped  meat,  add  a  little  sugar,  a 
few  drops  of  lemon  juice,  cayenne  pepper 
and  salt,  and  the  yolks  of  three  eggs,  boil 
all  well  until  quite  stiff,  take  it  out  of 
your  stewpan  on  to  a  dish  to  get  cold ; 
when  cold  form  them  into  a  shape,  either 
as  pears  or  long  balls,  using  bread-crumbs 
to  form  them  ;  put  them  to  get  cold ;  in 
the  mean  time  break  two  eggs  in  a  basin 
and  then  egg  the  forms  once  or  twice,  and 
bread-crumb  them ;  fyave  your  fat  quite 
hot  to  fry  them,  dish  them  on  a  napkin 
with  fried  parsley. 


437.— EGGS  FOR  TURTLE. 

Beat  three  hard  yolks  of  eggs  in  a  mor- 
;ar,  and  make  into  a  paste  with  the  yolk 
)f  a  raw  one ;  roll  it  into  small  balls,  and 
;hrow  them  into  boiling  water  for  two 
minutes  to  harden.  Though  formerly 
much  used,  they  have  latterly  gone  out 
of  fashion. 


488.— PASSOVER  BALLS  FOR  SOUP. 
Chop  an  onion  and  half  a  pound  of 
suet  very  finely;  stew  them  together 
until  the  suet  is  melted,  then  pour  it  hot 
upon  eight  spoonfuls  of  biscuit-flour ; 
mix  it  well  together ;  add  a  little  salt,  a 
little  grated  nutmeg,  lemon-peel,  and  gin- 
ger, and  six  eggs.  Put  the  balls  into  the 
soup  when  it  boils,  and  boil  them  for  a 
quarter  of  an  hour.  The  quantity  of 
eggs  and  flour  may  appear  disproportion- 
ed,  but  the  flour  employed  is  of  a  peculiar 
kind,  used  for  the  purpose  in  Jewish  fami- 
lies. Nothing  can  exceed  the  excellence 
of  the  balls  made  after  this  receipt:  they 
are  applicable  to  any  kind  of  soups. 


439.— FARCE  OF  VEAL  OR  FOWL. 
Cut  up  a  fowl,  or  some  veal,  form  the 
fillet  into  small  dice,  cut  in  the  same 
quantity  of  good  fat  ham  cut  small,  and 
a  few  truffles,  a  little  parsley,  shalots,  and 
a  little  of  all  kinds  of  fine  sweet  herbs, 
and  a  few  chopped  mushrooms,  and  one 
blade  of  mace,  three  cloves,  put  it  all  in  a 
stewpan  to  draw  down,  with  half  a  pound 
of  butter  for  one  hour;  season  it,  add 
bread-crumbs  to  dry  up  the  fat.  then  put 
it  into  your  mortar  and  pound  it  very 
fine,  then  rub  it  through  a  wire  sieve,  re- 
turn it  back  into  the  mortar,  and  work  in 
three  or  four  eggs,  leaving  out  one  or  two 
whites ;  mix  it  well  up  together,  and  put 
it  into  the  larder  until  required.  If  you 
want  any  green,  color  some  with  prepared 
spinach  juice;  this  will  do  for  all  cold 


248 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


pies,  or  game,  or  filling  turkeys,  or  boned 
fowls,  or  galantine. 

You  may  make  this  farce  with  dressed 
meat,  then  you  must  not  place  it  to  draw 
down  on  the  fire ;  all  the  rest  the  same, 
only  truffles,  and  mushrooms  as  well  as 
the  rest  must  be  first  dressed. 

440— SEASONING  FOR  EOAST  POEK, 
DUCKS,  OE  GEESE. 

Two-thirds  onion,  one-third  green  sage, 
chopped  fine,  bread  crumbs  equal  to 
weight  of  both ;  season  with  pepper  and 
salt,  and  mix  with  a  bit  of  butter  and  the 
yolk  of  an  egg. 

441.— FOE  A  SUCKING  PIG. 

A  teacupful  of  grated  bread,  two  ounces 
of  butter  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper  and 
nutmeg ;  scald  and  chop  fine  two  small 
onions  and  thirty  leaves  of  young  sage ; 
mix  with  a  beaten  egg,  and  sew  it  in  the 
Pig- 

442.— FOE  A  GOOSE. 

Scald  and  chop  fine  the  liver,  crumb 
twice  its  weight  in  bread,  chop  fine  four 
small  onions,  half  their  weight  of  green 
sage,  with  half  an  ounce  of  butter,  the 
yolk  of  an  egg,  and  a  table-spoonful  of 
potato  starch ;  season  highly  with  salt 
and  pepper. 

448.— GAENISHES. 

Parsley  is  the  most  universal  garnish 
to  all  kinds  of  cold  meat,  poultry,  fish, 
butter,  cheese,  etc.  Horseradish  is  the 
garnish  for  roast  beef,  and  fish  in  general ; 
sometimes,  for  the  latter,  it  is  alternated 
with  slices  of  lemon.  Slices  of  lemon  gar- 
nish boiled  fowl,  turkey,  fish,  roast  veal, 

and  calf's  head. 

t 

444.— FAECES  AND  STUFFINGS. 

A  veal  stuffing.  Chop  some  suet  fine, 
a  little  parsley,  a  small  piece  of  shalot, 
rub  through  a  dry  sieve  a  small  quantity 
of  basil,  knotted  marjoram,  thyme,  add 


these  to  your  suet,  a  grating  of  half  a 
lemon,  a  few  grains  of  nutmeg,  a  few 
bread-crumbs,  and  one  or  two  eggs,  mix 
all  well  up  together,  season  with  pepper 
and  salt. 

If  for  game,  scrape  the  raw  livers  into 
the  stuffing,  prepared  as  above,  only  in 
addition  pound  it  all  fine. 

445.— FOECEMEAT  INGEEDIENTS. 

Forcemeat  should  be  made  to  cut  with 
a  knife,  but  not  dry  or  heavy,  no  one 
flavor  should  predominate ;  according  to 
what  it  is  wanted  for,  a  choice  may  be  made 
from  the  following  list ;  be  careful  to  use 
the  least  of  those  articles  that  are  most 
pungent;  cold  fowl,  or  veal,  or  ham, 
scraped  fat  bacon,  beef  suet,  crumbs  of 
bread,  parsley,  white  pepper,  salt,  nut- 
meg, yolks  and  whites  of  eggs  beaten  to 
bind  the  mixture.  Any  of  the  following 
articles  may  be  used  to  alter  the  taste  ; 
oysters,  anchovies,  tarragon,  savory, 
pennyroyal,  marjoram,  thyme,  basil, 
yolks  of  hard  eggs,  caj^enne,  garlic,  sha- 
lots,  endives,  Jamaica  pepper  in  powder, 
or  two  or  three  cloves. 

446.— FOECEMEATS,  ETC. 

Cold  fowl,  veal,  or  mutton. 

Scraped  ham,  or  gammon. 

Fat  bacon,  or  fat  ham. 

Beef  suet. 

Veal  suet.     „ 

Butter. 

Marrow. 

Soaked  bread,  and  crumbs  of  bread. 

Parsley  and  white  pepper. 

Salt  and  nutmeg. 

Cold  soles. 

Oysters. 

Anchovies. 

Lobster,  tarragon. 

Savoy,  pennyroyal. 

Knotted  marjoram. 

Thyme  and  lemon  thyme. 

Basil  and  sage. 

Lemon  peel. 


BEEF. 


249 


Yolks  of  hard  eggs. 

Whites  and  yolks  of  eggs. 

Mace  and  cloves. 

Cayenne  and  garlic. 

Shalot  and  onion. 

Chives  and  chervil. 

Ground  pepper  and  two  or  three  cloves. 

447.— BROWN  COLOEING  FOE  MADE 
DISHES. 

Take  four  ounces  of  sugar,  beat  it  fine, 
put  it  into  an  iron  fryingpan  or  earthen 
pipkin,  set  it  over  a  clear  fire,  and  when 
the  sugar  is  melted  it  will  be  frothy ;  put 
it  higher  from  the  fire  until  it  is  a  fine 
brown,  keep  it  stirring  all  the  time ;  fill 
the  pan  up  with  red  wine,  take  care  that 
it  does  not  boil  over,  add  a  little  salt  and 
lemon,  put  a  little  cloves  and  mace,  a 
shalot  or  two,  boil  it  gently  for  ten 
minutes,  pour  it  in  a  basin  till  it  is  cold, 
then  bottle  it  for  use. 


BEEF. 

BEEF  is  dressed  in  various  ways  all 
the  year  round;  but,  for  roasting,  the 
best  season  is  from  November  to  the 
end  of  March.  For  joints,  the  only 
really  good  roasting  pieces  are-the  sir- 
loin and  the  long  ribs ;  the  short  ribs, 
which  are  cut  near  the  neck,  never  roast 
well,  and  should  not  be  used  for  this 
purpose ;  the  middle  ribs  are  the  best. 
The  under  part,  or  fillet,  of  the  sirloin, 
if  cut  out,  may  be  made  into  a  delicious 
stew;  or,  if  cut  crosswise  into  steaks, 
tli«y  will  be  found  more  tender  than 
those  of  the  rump. 

Beef  requires  to  be  hung  a  long  time, 
in  order  to  insure  its  being  tender. 
When  however  the  weather  is  not  favor- 
able for  keeping,  it  will  b.e  much  improv- 
ed by  being  laid  for  a  few  hours,  previ- 
ous to  roasting,  in  a  marinade  of  this 


kind — three  parts  water  to  one  of  vine- 
gar, some  salt,  with  a  few  peppercorns. 
Each  joint  must  be  carefully  examined 
before  it  is  spitted,  and  any  portions  that 
may  have  been  injured  cut  away. 

The  round  is,  in  large  families,  one  of 
the  most  profitable  parts :  it  is  usually 
boiled,  and,  like  most  of  the  boiling  parts 
of  beef,  is  generally  sold  at  less  than  the 
roasting  joints. 

The  brisket  is  also  less  in  price  than 
the  roasting  parts  ;  it  is  not  so  economi- 
cal a  part  as  the  round,  having  more 
bone  to  be  weighed  with  it,  and  more  fat. 
Where  there  are  children,  very  fat  joints 
are  not  desirable,  being  often  disagreea- 
ble to  them,  and  sometimes  prejudicial, 
especially  if  they  have  a  dislike  to  it. 
This  joint  also  requires  more  cooking 
than  many  others ;  that  is  to  say,  it  re- 
quires a  double  allowance  of  time  to  be 
given  for  boiling  it :  it  will,  when  served, 
be  hard  and  scarcely  digestible  if  no 
more  time  be  allowed  to  boil  it  than  that 
which  is  sufficient  for  other  joints  and 
meats.  When  stewed  it  is  excellent; 
and  when  cooked  fresh,  (i.  e.  unsalted,) 
an  excellent  stock  for  soup  may  be  ex- 
tracted from  it,  and  yet  the  meat  will 
serve  as  well  for  dinner. 

The  edgebone,  or  aitchbone,  is  not  con- 
sidered to  be  a  very  economical  joint, 
the  bone  being  large  in  proportion  to  the 
meat ;  but  the  greater  part  of  it,  at  least, 
is  as  good  as  that  of  any  prime  part. 

The  rump  is  the  part  of  which  the 
butcher  makes  profit,  by  selling  it  in  the 
form  of  steaks.  In  the  country,  as  there 
is  not  an  equal  demand  for  steaks,  the 
whole  of  it  may  be  purchased  as  a  joint, 
and  at  the  price  of  other  prime  parts. 
It  may  be  turned  to  good  account  in  pro- 
ducing many  excellent  dishes.  If  salt- 
ed, it  is  simply  boiled ;  if  used  unsalted, 
it  is  usually  stewed. 

The  veiny  piece  is  sold  at  a  low  price 
per  pound ;  but  if  hung  for  a  day  or  two, 
it  is  very  good  and  very  profitable. 


250 


THE    PRACTICAL    HOUSEKEEPER. 


Where  there  are  a  number  of  servants 
and  children  to  have  an  early  dinner, 
this  part  of  beef  will  be  found  desira- 
ble. 

From  the  leg  and  shin  excellent  stock 
for  soup  may  be  drawn ;  and  if  not  re- 
duced too  much,  the  meat  taken  from 
the  bones  may  be  served  as  a  stew  with 
vegetables ;  '  or  it  may  be  seasoned, 
pounded  with  butter,  and  potted;  or 
chopped  very  fine,  and  seasoned  with 
herbs,  and  bound  together  by  egg  and 
bread-crumbs ;  it  may  be  fried  in  balls, 
or  in  the  form  of  large  eggs,  and  served 
with  a  gravy  made  with  a  few  spoonfuls 
of  the  soup. 

Of  half  an  ox-qheek  excellent  soup 
may  be  made :  the  meat,  when  taken 
from  the  bones,  may  be  served  as  a  stew. 

When  one  or  two  ribs  are  purchased 
by  a  small  family,  it  is  a  good  plan  to 
have  the  bones  taken  out,  and  the  meat 
rolled  round  in  the  shape  of  a  fillet ;  a 
considerable  saving  is  eifected  by  this 
plan,  as,  when  not  so  prepared,  the  thin 
part  of  the  extremity  of  the  bone  is  fre- 
quently wasted.  The  bone  cut  out  when 
the  meat  is  raw  will  assist  in  making 
soap,  and  is  much  preferable  to  a  cold 
beef-bone.  They  are  sometimes  cut  off 
short,  and  salted  or  stewed,  but  rolled  is 
the  better  plan;  and  in  this  manner  a 
single  rib  can  be  skewered  into  a  hand- 
som3  fillet ;  the  fat  and  lean  being  mar- 
bled, and  the  appearance  of  the  whole 
improved. 

448.— TO  COLLAE  EIBS  OF  BEEF. 

Take  two  or  three  ribs  of  beef;  cut  it 
from  the  bones;  rub  it  well  with  salt, 
brown  sugar,  and  saltpetre ;  let  it  remain 
a  fortnight,  turning  it  every  day ;  then 
season  it  with  pepper,  mace,  cloves,  all- 
spice, and  a  clove  of  garlic  chopped  very 
fine  ;  cover  it  well  with  parsley,  thyme, 
and  sweet  marjoram ;  roll  it  up  very 
tight,  and  bind  it  round  with  tape  ;  put 
it  into  a  pot  with  some  water,  cover  it 


close  up,  and  send  it  to  the  oven  to  be 
baked  very  slowly  three  or  four  hours ; 
then  take  it  out,  and  press  it  between 
two  boards  with  weights.  This  is  an 
excellent  dish  for  luncheon  or  break- 
fast. 

449.— A  MAEINADE  TO  BASTE  EOAST 
MEATS. 

Chop  up  some  fat  bacon  with  a  clove 
of  garlic  and  a  sprig  of  parsley ;  add  salt, 
pepper,  a  spoonful  of  vinegar,  and  four 
spoonfuls  of  oil ;  beat  it  up  well,  and 
baste  the  meat  with  it. 

450.— SIELOIN  OF  BEEF  fiOASTED. 

Break  the  upper  part  of  the  chine 
bones,  cut  them  out,  and  cut  through 
the  strong  gristle  on  the  top  about  an 
inch  apart,  and  skewer  it  in  its  place, 
which  will  prevent  its  drawing  up  or 
looking  unsightly.  Run  the  spit  just 
under  the  bark  at  the  thin  end,  and 
bring  it  out  between  the  joints.  By 
spitting  it  thus  you  avoid  showing  where 
the  spit  has  gone  through.  Cover  the 
fat  with  a  sheet  of  buttered  paper,  and 
roast  gently  for  three  or  four  hcurs,  ac- 
cording to  the  size  of  the  joint.  The 
under  part  is  sometimes  stuffed  with 
forcemeat,  in  the  following  manner : — 

Carefully  lift  up  the  fat  from  the  in- 
side of  the  sirloin  with  a  sharp  knife ; 
take  out  all  the  meat  close  to  the  bone, 
and  mince  it  small ;  take  one-half  pound 
of  suet,  and  chop  it  fine  ;  mix  with  it  some 
grated  bread-crumbs,  a  little  lemon-peel, 
thyme,  eschalot  minced  very  fine ;  mix 
all  together  with  a  glass  of  port  wine ; 
put  it  back  again  into  the  same  place, 
and  cover  it  with  the  skin  and  fat ; 
skewer  it  down  neatly  with  small  wooden 
skewers,  and  cover  it  with  paper.  The 
meat  should  be  spitted  before  you  take 
out  the  inside  ;  and  when  done  do  not 
take  off  the  paper  until  the  joint  is  put 
into  the  dish :  then  serve  it  up  garnished 
with  scraped  horseradish. 


BEEF. 


251 


The  method  of  taking  the  meat  from 
the  bone,  and  rolling  it  so  as  to  have  the 
forcemeat  in  the  middle,  is  easier,  but 
adds  its  flavor  to  the  whole  joint ;  while 
this  way  keeps  the  upper  and  the  under 
part  separate. 

451.— TO  DEESS  THE  INSIDE  OF  A  8IELOIN. 

Cut  it  out  in  one  piece,  if  not  used^at 
table ;  stew  it  with  good  broth  or  gravy, 
a  little  spice,  and  a  table-spoonful  of 
walnut  ketchup.  Serve  with  chopped 
pickles. 

452.— TO  DEESS  THE  INSIDE  OF  A  COLD 

SIELOIN. 

• 

Cut  out  all  the  meat,  and  a  little  fat, 
into  pieces  as  thick  as  your  finger,  and 
four  inches  long ;  dredge  them  with  flour, 
and  fry  in  butter  of  a  nice  brown :  drain 
the  butter  from  the  meat,  and  toss  it  up 
in  a  rich  gravy,  seasoned  with  pepper, 
salt,  anchovy,  and  shalot.  Do  not  let  it 
boil  on  any  account.  Before  you  serve, 
add  two  spoonfuls  of  vinegar  and  a  glass 
of  port  wine.  Garnish  with  crimped 
parsley. 

Or: — Cut  the  meat  in  slices  about 
four  inches  long,  and  one-half  an  inch 
thick,  the  fat  with  the  lean ;  season  them 
with  pepper  and  salt,  and  fry  them  in 
good  fresh  butter ;  have  ready  some 
good  brown  gravy,  and  stew  them  gently 
for  half  an  hour ;  add  a  little  mush- 
room ketchup,  and  a  table-spoonful  of 
eschalot  vinegar,  with  a  wine,  glass  of 
port,  and  just  before  serving  put  in  a 
small  piece  of  butter  rolled  in  flour. 
Serve  hot  in  a  covered  dish.  This  part 
is  called  the  "fillet,"  and,  when  raw, 
may  be  either  stewed  whole  or  in  the 
above  manner. 

453.— ANOTHEE  WAY. 

Cut  the  inside  of  the  sirloin  into  pieces, 
dredge  it  with  flour,  put  it  into  a  frying- 
pan  in  which  some  butter  is  boiling; 


when  it  is  browned,  put  it  into  a  stew- 
pan  with  some  brown  gravy,  highly  sea- 
soned, squeeze  in  half  a  lemon,  and 
serve. 

454.— ANOTHEE  WAY. 

Cut  it  in  strips,  as  for  collops,  flatten 
it,  flour,  and  fry  in  butter;  lay  in  the 
centre  of  a  hot  dish  a  mound  of  spinach, 
with  poached  eggs  on  the  top :  lay  the 
beef  round  the  spinach. 

455.— FILLET  OF  BEEF,  EOASTED. 

If  unaccustomed  to  the  use  of  the 
knife,  the  butcher's  aid  may  be  obtained 
to  cut  the  fillet,  which  comes  from  the 
inside  of  the  sirloin ;  it  may  be  larded 
or  roasted  plain ;  for  high  dinners  it  is 
larded;  baste-  with  fresh  butter.  It 
must  be  a  large  fillet  which  takes  longer 
than  an  hour  and  twenty  minutes ;  serve 
with  tomato  sauce,  garnish  with  horse- 
radish, unless  served  with  currant  jelly, 
then  serve  as  with  venison  or  hare,  on 
warmed  dishes  and  plates. 

456.-FILLET  OF  BEEF. 

To  dress  the  inside  of  a  Sirloin  of  Beef 
to  taste  like  Hare.  Take  the  inside  of 
a  large  sirloin  that  has  hung  until  ten- 
der ;  soak  it  twenty-four  hours  in  a  few 
glasses  of  port  wine  and  vinegar.  Have 
ready  a  good  stuffing  as  for  hare;  do 
not  spread,  but  put  it  into  the  middle 
of  the  beef,  and  roll  it  up  tight.  Roast 
it  on  a  hanging  spit,  and  baste  it  with 
a  glass  of  the  wine  and  vinegar,  mixed 
with  a  teaspoonful  of  Jamaica  pepper, 
and  a  clove  or  two,  in  the  finest  .powder, 
until  it  is  all  dried  up ;  then  baste  with 
butter.  Serve  with  a  rich  gravy  in  the 
dish,  and  currant-jelly  sauce  in  a  tureen. 

457.— EUMP  OF  BEEF. 
If  of  a  well-fed  ox,  and  hung  till  ten- 
der, this  is  one  of  the  most  juicy  and  best 
flavored  of  all  the  joints  of  beef,  but  is 


252 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


more  frequently  stewed  than  roasted.  It 
is  generally  sold  in  the  country  undivided 
from  the  aitch-bone ;  or  cut  across,  and 
not  lengthwise,  which  makes  it  too  large 
for  one  dressing,  and  neither  fit  for  boil- 
ing nor  roastin'g. 

At  family  dinners,  a  Yorkshire  pudding 
is  a  usual  accompaniment,  but  now  sel- 
dom served  at  genteel  tables. 

458. -TO  STEW  BEEF. 

It  should  be  put  down  in  a  pot  with 
just  sufficient  cold  water  to  cover  the 
meat,  and  closely  covered  After  boiling 
three  or  four  hours,  according  to  the  size 
of  the  piece,  cut  in  small  pieces,  not  larger 
than  dice,  two  or  three  carrots  and  heads 
of  celery,  with  a  little  sweet  herbs,  and 
put  them  into  the  pot  along  with  popper- 
corns,  mace,  and  a  couple  of  large  onions 
stuck  full  of  cloves,  and  let  it  then  sim- 
mer by  the  side  of  the  fire  for  two  or 
three  hours,  taking  care  to  skim  off  any 
grease  that  may  appear  on  the  top. 

By  this  time  the  meat  will  probably  be 
tender  enough ;  when  take  out  the  whole 
onions,  mince  them,  and  fry  them  in  but- 
ter, to  be  mixed  in  the  gravy  made  by  the 
meat,  which  season  with  salt  and  cayenne, 
or  Chili-vinegar,  to  which  add  some  mush- 
room or  walnut  ketchup.  Thicken  the 
gravy  with  a  little  flour,  and  brown  it, 
if  necessary,  with  a  spoonful  of  sugar 
burnt  soft ;  which,  besides  imparting  its 
color,  adds  an  agreeable  flavor.  Such  is 
the  most  simple  mode;  but  the  sauce 
may  be  much  improved  by  a  glass  or  two 
of  port  wine  and  a  spoonful  of  curry  pow- 


Stewed  Beet 
der ;  if  the  odor  of  garlic  be  not  objected 


to,  a  clove  boiled  in  the  stew  will  be  found 
to  give  it  a  fine  flavor.  Garnish  with 
vegetables. 

A  small  piece  of  beef — say  of  four 
pounds — will  take  the  time  mentioned ; 
the  large  joints  will  require  full 
double  that  time ;  and  should  be  put  to 
stew  overnight,  adding  the  vegetables  in 
morning. 


459.-EUMP  OF  BEEF  STEW. 

Half  roast  it ;  then  put  it  into  a  pot 
with  three  pints  of  water,  a  pound  of 
sliced  bacon,  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  two 
wine-glasses  of  vinegar,  and  a  bottle  of 
cider  or  small  wine  ;  stick  cloves  into  a 
couple  of  large  onions,  add  a  few  sage- 
leaves,  and  cover  the  beef  closely,  adding 
more  water  should  there  npt  be  sufficient 
gravy  from  the  meat.  Let  it  simmer  for 
three  hours  ;  then  strain  the  gravy.  Boil 
or  bake  some  button  onions,  and  lay 
them  round  the  beef;  cover  it  also  with 
forcemeat  balls,  fried  ornaments  of  paste, 
and  mushrooms,  if  in  season ;  add  to  the 
gravy  a  glass  of  port  wine,  a  spoonful  of 
soy  and  Oude  sauce ;  boil  down  a  part  to 
a  glaze,  and  put  it  on  the  beef:  thicken 
the  remainder  if  necessary,  and  pour  it 
round,  garnishing  the  dish  with  pickles. 

Or: — Season  it  high  with  cayenne, 
salt,  allspice,  cloves,  and  a  blade  of  mace, 
all  in  fine  powder.  Bin J  it  up  tight,  and 
lay  it  into  a  pot  that  will  just  hold  it : 
resting  it  on  two  or  three  twigs,  to  pre- 
vent the  megt  from  sticking.  Fry  three 
large  onions  sliced,  and  put  them  to  it. 
with  carrots,  turnips,  a  shalot,  a  blade  of 
mace,  and  some  celery.  Cover  the  meat 
with  good  beef-broth,  and  simmer  it  as 
gently  as  possible  for  several  hours  until 
quite  tender.  Clear  off  the  fat ;  and  add 
to  the  gravy  half  a  pint  of  port  wine,  a 
small  glass  of  Chili  vinegar,  and  a  large 
spoonful  of  ketchup ;  simmer  half  an 
hour,  and  serve  in  a  deep  dish.  The 
herbs  to  be  used  should  be  burnet,  tarra- 


BEEF. 


253 


gon,  parsley,  thyme,  basil,  marjoram,  and 
all  or  any  of  the  most  savory  sort. 

Or : — Prepare  the  beef  as  directed  in  the 
foregoing  receipts,  and  glaze  it  twice  ; 
stew  some  white  haricot  beans  in  good 
brown  gravy,  with  an  onion  sliced,  a  car- 
rot, some  parsley,  and  a  bunch  of  sweet 
herbs,  a  clove  of  garlic,  a  bay-leaf,  and  a 
slice  of  lean  ham ;  let  all  simmer  gently 
together  till  the  beans  are  sufficiently 
tender ;  then  separafe  them  from  the  other 
Toge tables,  and  put  them  in  a  sieve  to 
drain;  pass  the  sauce  and  vegetables 
through  a  tammy,  add  a  table-spoonful 
of  vinegar,  and  if  not  thick  enough,  a 
bit  of  butter  rolled  in  flour ;  put  in  the 
haricot  beans,  make  all  boiling-hot,  and 
pour  the  sauce  into  the  dish  round  the 
beef. 

460.— BEISKET  OF  BEEF  STEWED. 

Stew  it  in  sufficient  water  to  cover  the 
meat ;  when  quite  tender,  take  out  the 
bones,  and  skim  off  the  fat ;  add  to  the 
gravy,  when  strained,  a  glass  of  wine  and 
a  little  spice  tied  up  in  a  muslin  bag. 
Have  ready  either  mushrooms,  truffles, 
or  vegetables  boiled,  and  cut  into  shapes. 
Lay  them  on  and  round  the  beef;  reduce 
part  of  the  gravy  to  a  glaze ;  lay  it  on 
the  top,  and  pour  the  remainder  into  the 
dish. 

It  is  a  good  piece  to  be  stewed,  as  it 
may  be  cut  from  the  bone,  and  of  any 
size. 

461.— LEG  OF  BEEF  STEWED. 

Salt  six  pounds  of  the  half-leg,  or  stiff 
marrow-bone  of  beef  for  three  or  four 
days.  Make  holes  in  it  about  one  and  a 
half  inches  deep,  and  press  in,  very  hard, 
forcemeat  made  in  the  following  manner : 
one  and  a  half  pounds  of  suet  sliced  very 
fine ;  pepper,  salt,  and  a  few  cloves,  some 
winter  savory,  and  sweet  marjoram,  mix 
ed  well  together.  The  beef  must  be 
baked  in  a  deep  pan,  with  water  reaching 
about  three-quarters  of  the  way  up,  and 
forcemeat  spread  over  the  top,  which, 


when  the  meat  is  baked,  is  taken  off,  cut 
into  shapes,  and  laid  round  the  dish. 

462.— BOUILLON 

Is  the  common  soup  of  France,  and  is 
in  use  in  almost  every  French  family. 
Put  into  an  earthen  stock-pot  in  the  pro- 
portion of  one  pound  of  beef  to  one  quart 
of  cold  water.  Place  it  on  the  side  of  the 
fire,  and  let  it  become  slowly  hot.  By  so 
doing  the  fibre  of  the  meat  is  enlarged, 
the  gelatine  is  dissolved,  and  the  savor- 
ous  parts  of  the  meat  are  diffused  through 
the  broth.  "When  the  object  is  simply  to 
make  a  good,  pure-flavored  beef  broth, 
part  of  the  shin  or  leg  will  answer, the 
purpose,  adding  some  vegetables,  and  let- 
ting it  stew  four  or  five  hours ;  but  if  the 
meat  is  to  be  eaten,  the  rump  or  leg-of- 
mutton  piece  should  be  used 

463.— BOUILLI. 

The  rump  of  beef  is  best  for  this  pur- 
pose, as  the  meat  is  to  be  served  up  in  a 
separate  dish,  and  will  make  a  finely  fla- 
vored sort  of  soup.  Take  as  much  of  it 
as  may  be  thought  necessary  ;  but  for  a 
small  party,  say  from  four  to  six  pounds, 
along  with  two  or  three  large  roasted 
onions,  in  one  of  which  some  cloves  may 
be  stuck,  and  a  moderate  quantity  of 
whole  pepper,  with  a  bunch  of  sweet 
herbs  ;  to  which  an  anchovy  may  be  add- 
ed; put  it  in  a  stewpan.  covered  with 
rather  more  than  a  pint  of  cold  water  to 
every  pound  of  meat ;  and  let  it  simmer 
by  the  side  of  the  fire  for  four  or  five 
hours,  or  until  it  has  become  quite  ten- 
der ;  then  take  out  the  herbs  and  onions, 
and  add  carrots,  turnips,  and  celery, 
either  cut  into  small  squares  or  sliced,  and 
let  the  whole  boil  until  sufficiently  stew- 
ed, and  ready  for  the  table. 

The  soup  should  then  be  strained  off 
and  served  separately,  leaving  only  so 
much  as  may  be  necessary  for  making 
sauce  for  the  vegetables.  The  sauce 
should  be  a  little  thickened,  and  seasoned 


254 


THE    PRACTICAL    HOUSEKEEPER. 


to  the  palate ;  if  a  clove  of  garlic,  or  a 
teaspoonful  of  garlic  and  Chili  vinegar,  be 
added,  it  will  improve  the  flavor.  In 
Ireland  it  is  not  uncommon  to  send  up 
the  bouilli  smothered  in  onion  sauce,  the 
other  vegetables  being  either  not  used,  or 
brought  up  in  the  soup ;  in  France  it  is 
very  usual  to  dress  cabbage  and  sausages 
as  an  accompaniment  to  the  bouilli ,  in 
England,  it  is  more  customary  to  serve  it 
up  with  the  vegetable-sauce  as  above- 
stated.  Cucumbers  cut  into  dice  and 
stewed,  with  a  spoonful  of  Chili  vinegar 
added,  are  served  at  most  of  the  German 
hotels.  The  meat  if  gently  stewed  until 
quite  tender,  without  being  boiled  to  rags, 
will  be  found  excellent,  and  the  whole  an 
admirable  dish. 

464-TO  KESTOEE  TAINTED  MEAT. 

Pour  a  few  drops  of  hydrochloric  acid 
in  water  till  of  a  slight  sour  taste,  and 
immerse  the  tainted  meat  in  it  for  an 
hour  or  so,  and  it  will  become  quite  sweet 
again. 

465.— BKOILING. 

The  cook  must  prepare  her  fire  in  due 
time.  When  ready,  it  should  be  clear 
and  bright,  so  clear  from  black  coal  and 
smoke  that  the  chop  or  steak  may  come 
from  the  gridiron  without  blemish  or 
taint  of  sulphur  or  smoke.  The  best 
fuel  for  a  broil  is  composed  of  charcoal 
and  coke,  as  little  smoke  is  emitted  from 
either,  even  on  commencing  the  fire,  and 
when  well  ignited,  it  is  entirely  free  from 
it ;  coke,  added  to  a  brisk  coal  fire,  also 
burns  bright,  and  is  well  suited  for  the 
operation,  though  with  care  a  proper  fire 
may  be  made  of  good  hard  coal.  There  is 
this  amongst  other  disadvantages,  in  cut- 
ting too  thick  a  steak,  the  outside  is 
likely  to  be  scorched  to  horny  hardness 
before  the  interior  is  half  cooked ;  hence, 
to  say  nothing  of  the  misery  of  those 
who  have  not  large  mouths,  the  disap- 


pointed epicure  must  either  wait  until  it 
is  put  again  on  the  gridiron,  or  instead 
of  eating  it  rare,  be  constrained  to  eat  it 
raw.  N0  gridiron  should  be  used  but 
those  with  fluted  bars,  which,  forming 
channels,  the  greater  part  of  the  fat 
which  otherwise  falls  into  the  fire,  and 
scorches  the  steak,  is  drawn  off  into  a 
gutter  at  the  bottom ;  the  gridiron 
should  be  thoroughly  heated,  and  the 
bars  rubbed  with  beef  or  mutton  suet 
previously  to  putting  on  the  steak,  to 
prevent  its  being  marked  by,  or  adhering 
to,  the  bars.  A  close  eye  should  be 
kept  on  the  steak  to  watch  the  moment 
for  .turning  it.  which  is  repeatedly  done 
during  the  process;  broiling  tongs  of 
convenient  size  should  be  used,  with 
which,  by  a  little  practice,  the  steak  may 
be  turned  with  ease  and  despatch  ;  the 
cook  must  have  her  dish  thoroughly 
heated  to  receive  the  broil  when  done, 
and  the  cover  hot  to  place  on  it  instant- 
ly. Even  when  she  has  accomplished 
her  task,  if  the  servant  who  is  to  take  it 
to  table  loiters  on  the  way,  the  steak 
will  have  lost  its  zest.  A  steak  or  chop 
should  be  briskly  cooked,  speedily  con- 
veyed to  table,  and  served  with  despatch. 


466.— BEEF  STEAKS,  BKOILED. 

Be  particular  that  the  fire  is  clear  ;  it 
is  of  no  use  to  attempt  to  broil  a  steak 
over  a  dull,  smoky,  or  flaring  fire ;  see 
that  the  gridiron  is  clean,  and  the  bars 
rubbed  with  suet  preparatory  to  laying 
on  the  steak  ;  when  they  are  browned 
turn  them ;  do  not  be  afraid  of  doing 
this  often,  as  this  is  the  best  plan  to  pre- 
serve the  gravy.  When  they  are  done 
rub  them  over  with  a  piece  of  fresh  but- 
ter, pepper  and  salt  them,  sprinkle  the 
shalot  or  onion  cut  very  small,  and  send 
them  to  table  with  oyster  .sauce,  a  dish 
of  nicely  cooked  greens,  and  well  boiled 
potatoes  :  they  are  frequently  and  pleas- 


BEEF. 


255 


antly    garnished    with    scraped    horse- 
radish. 

467.— THE  ENGLISH  DISH  OF  BEEF  STEAK 
AND  ONIONS. 

Pound  the  steak,  season,  and  fry  it  in  a 
saute  or  frying-pan;  then  dredge  flour 
over  it,  and  add,  by  degrees,  a  cup  of 
boiling  water  with  more  seasoning. 
Drain  the  onions,  which  must  have  been 
boiled,  cut  them  up.  and  put  them  into 
the  pan,  having  taken  out  the  steak ; 
add  a  lump  of  butter  and  a  little  more 
flour;  stir  them  to  prevent  scorching; 
and  when  the  onions  are  well  browned, 
put  in  the  steak,  and  place  the  whole  over 
the  fire  till  heated  thoroughly.  In  serv- 
ing, heap  the  onions  upon  the  steak. 

468.— BEEF  STEAKS  EOLLED  AND 
BOASTED. 

Cut  handsome  steaks  from  the  rump, 
and  if  not  sufficiently  tender  let  them  be 
well  beaten  ;  make  a  rich  stuffing  of  equal 
parts  of  ham  and  veal  well  peppered ; 
stew  it  for  a  short  time,  and  pound  it  in 
a  mortar  with  bread  steeped  in  milk,  a 
lump  of  butter,  and  the  yolk  of  two  or 
three  eggs;  spread  this  forcemeat  over 
the  steaks,  roll  them  up  and  tie  them 
tightly,  roast  them  before  a  clear  fire. 
They  will  occupy  an  hour  and  twenty 
minutes  to  an  hour  and  a  half  roasting  ; 
baste  well  with  butter  while  roasting, 
and  serve  with  brown  gravy. 

469.— STEWED  BEEF  STEAKS. 

Stew  the  steaks  in  three  parts  of  a 
pint  of  water,  to  which  has  been  added  a 
bunch  of  s\veet  herbs,  two  blades  of 
mace,  an  onion  stuck  with  cloves — say 
three,  an  anchovy,  and  a  lump  of  butter 
soaked  in  flour ;  pour  over  a  glass  of 
sherry  or  Madeira.  Stew  with  the  pan 
covered  down,  until  the  steaks  are  ten- 
der, but  not  too  much  so ;  then  place 
them  in  a  fryingpan-  with  enough  of  fresh 


butter,  hissing  hot,  to  cover  them,  fry 
them  brown,  pour  off  the  fat,  and  in  ita 
place  pour  into  the  pan  the  gravy  in 
which  the  steaks  were  stewed ;  when 
the  gravy  is  thoroughly  heated,  and  is  of 
a  rich  consistency,  place  the  steaks  in  a 
hot  dish,  pour  the  sauce  over  them. 
The  steaks  should  be  large,  the  finest 
from  the  rump,  and  have  a  due  propor- 
tion of  fat  with  them. 

470.— BEEF  STEAKS,  1  LA  FRANQAISE. 

Take  a  fine  steak  and  dip  it  into  cold 
spring  water,  let  it  drain  a  few  minutes, 
lay  it  in  a  dish  and  pour  over  it  sufficient 
clarified  butter  hot,  and  cover  it ;  let  it 
remain  twelve  hoijrs,  then  remove  the 
butter,  and  roll  the  steak  with  the  roll- 
ing-pin a  dozen  times  rather  hardly,  let 
it  lie  in  front  of  a  clear  fire  ten  minutes, 
turning  it  once  or  twice,  put  it  into  a 
fryingpan.  with  water  half  an  inch  in 
depth,  and  let  it  fry  until  it  browns. 

Mince  some  parsley  very  fine,  chop  an 
eschalot  as  fine  as  can  be,  and  season 
them  with  cayenne,  salt,  and  a  little 
white  pepper ;  work  them  with  a  lump 
of  fresh  butter,  and  when  the  steak  is 
brown  take  it  from  the  pan,  rub  it  well 
with  the  mixture  on  both  sides,  and  re- 
turn it  to  the  pan  until  done  enough ;  dish 
it,  thicken  the  gravy  in  the  pan  with  a 
little  butter  rolled  in  flour  if  it  requires 
it,  and  pour  it  over  the  steak  and  serve. 

471.— BEEF  STEAKS  A  LA  PAKISIENNE. 

Cut  thin  steaks  from  the  finest  and 
tendcrest  part  of  the  rump,  sprinkle 
pounded  salt,  a  little  cayenne  and  white 
pepper  combined,  over  them ;  lay  them  in 
a  pan  with  an  ounce  of  fresh  butter,  cut 
in  pieces ;  work  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
flour  with  three  ounces  of  fresh  butter, 
as  much  parsley  minced  exceedingly  fine 
as  would  lie  on  a  shilling,  roll  it,  and  cut 
in  large  dice,  lay  it  in  a  dish,  squeeze  the 
half  of  a  lemon  over  the  butter,  and 


256 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


when  the  steaks  are  done  lay  them  upon 
the  butter;  have  ready  a  quantity  of 
raw  peeled  potatoes,  cut  in  thin  slices, 
and  washed  in  milk  and  water  ready,  fry 
them  in  the  butter  and  gravy  left  by  the 
steak,  and  lay  them  round  the  dish  ;  they 
will  be  done  when  they  are  a  rich 
brown. 

472.— PALATES  OF  BEEF. 

Four  white  skinned  palates;  if  for  a 
white  dish  lay  them  all  night  in  salt  and 
water,  wash  them  well,  put  them  on  to 
scald,  take  off  all  the  skin,  then  put  them 
into  your  stock  pot,  let  them  boil  several 
hours  until  so  tender  that  you  can  pass 
a  straw  through  them,  then  take  them 
up  and  lay  them  flat  on  a  large  dish 
separate,  placing  another  on  the  top  of 
them  with  a  weight  to  keep  them  flat : 
if  to  be  dressed  whole  turn  the  sides 
smooth,  spread  each  with  quenelle  or 
forcemeat,  roll  them  up  and  tie  them ; 
it  will  take  six  for  this  dish;  steam 
them  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  take  them 
up  and  glaze  them  well,  and  take  off  the 
string  ;  if  for  a  turban  or  timbales,  cut 
them  out  with  a  plain  round  cutter, 
either  using  two  small  moulds  or  one 
large ;  proceed  with  those  two  as  you 
would  for  the  timbale  of  macaroni,  leav- 
ing out  the  cheese  and  any  other  layer ; 
introduce  slices  of  truffles  all  round,  and 
then  palates,  then  mushrooms  until  your 
mould  is  full,  put  a  layer  of  quenelle  on 
the  top,  paper  it  on  the  top  with  but- 
tered paper,  steam  as  other  timbales; 
haricot  roots,  truffles,  mushrooms,  to- 
mato, piquant,  any  of  these  will  do  for 
sauces,  or  Italienne ;  glaze  the  tops  when 
turned  out. 


478.— BEEF  PALATES. 

Take  as  many  as  required,  let  them 
simmer  until  they  peel,  put  them  in  a 
rich  gravy,  stew  until  very  tender,  sea- 


son with  cayenne,  salt,  two*  teaspoonfuls 
of  mushroom  ketchup — serve. 


474— BEEF  COLLOPS. 

Any  part  of  beef  which  is  tender  will 
serve  to  make  col  lops ;  cut  the  beef  into 
pieces  about  three  inches  long,  beat  them 
flat,  dredge  them  with  flour,  fry  them  in 
butter,  lay  them  in  a  stewpan,  cover 
them  with  brown  gravy,  put  in  half  an 
eschalot  minced  fine,  a  lump  of  butter 
rolled  in  flour  to  thicken,  with  a  little 
pepper  and  salt ;  stew  without  suffering 
it  to  boil ;  serve  with  pickles,  or  squeeze 
in  half  a  lemou,  according  to  taste  ; 
serve  in  a  tureen,  and  serve  hot. 

475.— A  BEEF  STEW. 

Take  two  or  three  pounds  of  the  rump 
of  beef,  cut  away  all  the  fat  and  skin,  and 
cut  it  into  pieces  about  two  or  three 
inches  square,  put  it  into  a  stewpan,  and 
pour  upon  it  a  quart  of  broth,  let  it  boil, 
sprinkle  in  a  little  salt  and  pepper  to 
taste  ;  when  it  has  boiled  very  gently,  or 
simmered  two  hours,  shred  finely  a  large 
lemon,  add  it  to  the  gravy,  and  in  twenty 
minutes  pour  in  a  flavoring  composed  of 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  Harvey's  sauce, 
the  juice  of  the  lemon  the  rind  of  which 
has  been  sliced  into  the  gravy,  a  spoonful 
of  flour,  and  a  little  ketchup;  add  at 
pleasure  two  glasses  of  Madeira,  or  one 
of  sherry,  or  port,  a  quarter  of  an  hour 
after  the  flavoring,  and  serve. 

476.— BEEF  HASHED. 

Take  the  bones  of  the  joint  to  be  hash- 
ed, and  break  them  small,  stew  them  in 
very  little  water,  with  a  bunch  of  sweet 
herbs,  and  a  few  onions ;  roll  a  lump  of 
butter  in  flour,  brown  it  in  a  stewpan, 
pour  the  gravy  to  it,  and  add  the  meat  to 
be  hashed,  cut  two  small  onions  in  thin 
slices,  a  carrot  also,  and  a  little  parsley 
shred"  finely ;  stew  gently  until  the  meat 
is  hot  through,  and  serve. 


BEEF. 


257 


477.— HASH  BALLS. 

Mince  cold  roast  meat  very  fine,  mix 
it  with  cold  boiled  potatoes  chopped ; 
season  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  a  little 
of  the  gravy ;  make  it  into  cakes  as  large 
as  a  biscuit,  cover  each  with  beaten  egg 
and  then  with  bread  crumbs,  and  fry  the 
cakes  a  light  brown  in  butter,  lard,  or 
dripping. 

478.— BEEF  TONGUE— TO  CUKE. 

Throw  a  handful  of  salt  over  the 
tongue,  seeing  that  it  is  sprinkled  on  both 
sides,  let  it  remain  to  drain  until  the  fol- 
lowing day,  make  a  pickle  of  a  table- 
spoonful  of  common  salt,  half  that  quan- 
tity of  saltpetre,  and  the  same  quantity 
of  coarse  sugar  as  of  salt ;  rub  this  mix- 
ture well  into  the  tongue,  do  so  every 
day  for  a  week;  it  will  then  be  found 
necessary  to  add  more  salt,  a  table-spoon- 
ful will  suffice ;  in  four  more  days  the 
tongue  will  be  cured  sufficiently. 

Some  persons  do  not  rub  the  pickle 
into  the  tongue,  but  let  it  absorb  it, 
merely  turning  it  daily ;  this  method  will 
be  found  to  occupy  a  month  or  five  weeks 
before  it  will  be  cured.  When  the  tongue 
is  to  be  dried  affix  a  paper  to  it  with 
a  date ;  smoke  over  a  wood  fire  four  days 
unless  wrapped  in  paper,  and  then  as 
many  weeks  will  be  required. 

479.— TO  DEESS  BEEF  TONGUES. 

To  dress  them,  boil  the  tongue  tender, 
it  will  take  five  hours;  always  dress 
them  as  they  come  out  of  the  pickle,  un- 
less they  have  been  very  long  there,  then 
they  may  be  soaked  three  or  four  hours 
in  cold  water,  or  if  they  have  been  smok- 
ed, and  hung  long,  they  should  be  soften- 
ed by  lying  in  water  five  or  six  hours. 
They  should  be  brought  to  a  boil  gently, 
and  then  simmer  until  tender;  when 
they  have  been  on  the  fire  about  two 
hours,  and  the  scum  removed  as  it  rises, 
throw  in  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs  of  a 


;olerable  size  ;  it  will  improve  the  flavor 
of  the  tongue. 

480.— A  FAMILY  STEW  OF  BEEF. 

Take  any  piece  of  beef  good  for  stew- 
ing, cut  it  into  small  pieces,  slice  two  or 
three  large  onions,  and  put  them  into  the 
stewpan  with  two  ounces  of  butter  or 
good  beef-dripping.  When  melted,  dredge 
in  some  flour,  add  the  meat  also  dredged 
with  flour,  and  enough  water  to  keep  it 
from  burning.  When  the  gravy  has 
drawn,  fill  up  with  boiling  water,  let  it 
come  to  a  boil  gently,  skim  the  pot  well, 
then  add  a  spoonful  of  mixed  spices,  and 
a  bay-leaf  or  two;  set  the  pan  by  the 
side  of  the  fire  to  stew  slowly  for  a 
couple  of  hours.  Eleven  pounds  of  meat 
will  take  four  hours.  This  dish  may  be 
thickened  like  Irish  stew,  with  potatoes, 
or  it  may  be  served  with  the  addition  of 
chopped  vegetables  of  all  kinds,  previ- 
ously fried. 

481.— TONGUE  LAEDED. 

This  when  well  cooked  is  especially 
pleasant  to  some  palates.  Take  a  tongue 
which  has  been  pickled,  a  small  one 
is  the  best,  cut  off  the  root,  and  put  it 
into  a  pan ;  cover  it  with  water,  and  let 
it  boil  tive-and-twenty  or  thirty  minutes. 
Take  it  out,  and  then  dip  it  in  scalding 
water  to  blanch,  and  remove  the  skin. 

Take  a  piece  of  fat  bacon,  cut  it  into 
strips  for  larding.  Make  a  seasoning  of 
pounded  sweet  herbs,  eschalot,  mace,  and 
a  little  cayenne  pepper  mixed  with  white 
pepper  and  salt;  sprinkle  the  bacon 
strips  with  it,  and  leaving  a  line  for  divi- 
sion down  the  centre  of  the  tongue.  Lard 
it  all  over.  Braise  the  tongue,  and  then 
glaze ;  separate  it  in  the  space  left,  but 
leave  it  attached  at  either  end,  so  that 
when  laid  ojoen  on  the  dish  it  is  not  en- 
tirely divided  in  two.  Have  ready  some 
brown  sauce,  flavored  with  minced  capers, 
sliced  pickled  gherkins,  the  juice  of  half 
a  lemon,  ana  half  a  small  tea-spoonful  of 


258 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


cayenne  pepper.  Pour  it  when  ready 
into  a  dish ;  lay  the  tongue  upon  it,  and 
serve  as  hot  as  possible. 

482.— BEEP  OLIVES. 

Cut  some  handsome  steaks,  flatten 
them  well  with  a  roller,  dredge  them 
well  with  a  small  quantity  of  white  pep- 
per and  salt,  have  some  forcemeat,  made 
with  the  fat  and  lean  of  veal  mixed  to- 
gether, a  small  bit  of  lean  ham  or  bacon, 
parsley,  and  sweet  herbs,  with  a  few 
bread  crumbs,  all  beaten  in  a  mortar,  and 
mixed  with  an  egg ;  lay  a  little  over  each 
steak,  and  roll  them  up  tightly,  fastening 
with  a  skewer ;  dip  them  in  the  yolk  of 
an  egg,  then  in  crumbs  of  bread,  and  fry 
them  of  a  pale  brown;  rolling  up  each 
separate  steak,  and  binding  it  together 
with  thread;  dish  them  with  brown  sauce, 
in  which  put  a  glass  of  white  wine,  with 
some  strong  gravy,  seasoned  with  cayenne. 

483.— B(EUF  TEEMBLANT. 

Cut  a  handsome  piece  of  beef  from  the 
rump,  either  a  fillet  or  square ;  hang  it 
up  for  four  daj'.s,  then  put  it  all  night  to 
soak  in  a  pickle  of  salt  and  vinegar;  put 
it  into  a  stewpan,  and  let  it  be  covered 
with  water;  add  a  seasoning  of  whole 
pepper  and  salt,  a  bundle  of  swe^t  herbs, 
and  an  onion.  Let  it  simmer  very  slowly 
as  long  as  it  will  hang  together,  taking 
care  to  skim  it  well.  Strain  the  gravy, 
and  add  to  it  carrots  previously  boiled, 
and  cut  into  pieces  an  inch  long ;  add  also 
a  few  capers  and  a  mushroom,  with  a 
glass  of  wine  and  the  juice  of  a  lemon. 
"When  the  beef  has  been  sufficiently 
stewed  take  it  up,  and  set  it  for  a  short 
time  in  a  Dutch  oven,  and  glaze  it,  or 
brown  it  with  a  salamander. 

484.— SPICED  BEEF. 

d 

A  joint  from  the  round,  rump,  or  flank, 
from  ten  to  fourteen  pounds,  is  the  usual 
weight  of  the  piece  intended  to  be  thus 
dressed.  Make  a  mixture  of  the  follow- 


ing ingredients,  and  let  them  be  well 
amalgamated ;  pound  finely  as  much  mace 
as  will  quite  fill  a  teaspoon,  grind  a  nnt- 
meg  to  powder,  and  add  it,  also  two  spoon- 
fuls of  cloves,  one-fourth  of  that  quantity 
of  cayenne  pepper,  and  half  a  pound  of 
coarse  brown  sugar;  rub  the  beef  well 
with  this  mixture  for  three  days,  turning 
it  each  day  once  ;  add  three-quarters  of  a 
pound  of  salt,  and  then  continue  rubbing 
well  each  day,  for  ten  days  more ;  at  the 
expiration  of  that  time  dip  it  into  some 
cold  clear  spring  water,  twice  or  thrice, 
secure  it  into  a  handsome  shape,  put  it 
into  a  stewpan  with  a  quart  of  good  beef 
broth,  let  it  come  to  a  boil,  skim  as  the 
scum  rises,  and  as  soon  as  it  boils  put  in 
three  carrots  cut  in  slices,  a  bundle  of 
sweet  herbs,  a  little  parsley,  and  an  onion ; 
stew  gently  four  hours. 

If  it  is  intended  to  serve  this  dish  cold, 
let  it  remain  until  it  is  cool  in  the  liquor 
in  which  it  was  boiled,  but  take  the  pre- 
caution to  put  the  meat  into  a  clean  pan, 
and  pour  the  liquor  over  it. 

485.— A  PICKLE  FOE  BEEF. 

To  one  gallon  of  water  put  two  pounds 
and  a  half  of  common  salt,  one  ounce  of 
saltpetre,  half  a  pound  of  coarse  sugar, 
boil  it  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  and  be 
particular  white  boiling  to  remove  every 
particle  of  scum  while  rising,  that  it  may 
be  as  clear  as  possible,  let  it  be  cold  when 
poured  upon  the  beef.  If  it  is  desired  to 
make  the  pickle  last  for  a  very  long  time, 
add  a  gallon  of  spring  water  to  the  above 
quantity,  which  should,  if  for  keeping,  be 
also  spring  water,  add  three  ounces  of 
saltpetre,  two  pounds  of  bay  salt,  and  a 
pound  and  a  half  of  coarse  brown  sugar. 
\Vhatever  joints  are  put  into  this  pickle, 
they  should  be  kept  closely  covered  down. 
Prepare  thus  the  beef  for  pickling,  keep 
it  as  long  as  you  can  without  taint,  spread 
over  it  coarse  sugar,  and  let  it  remain  for 
two  days  to  drain.  Rub  the  beef  thor- 
oughly with  the  pickle,  and  let  it  remain 


BEEF. 


259 


in  it  eight,  ten,  twelve,  or  fourteen  days, 
according  to  its  size  and  quantity ;  a  con- 
siderable quantity  of  beef  may  be  pickled 
together,  indeed  the  closer  it  is  packed 
the  better,  so  that  it  is  covered  with  the 
pickle  and  kept  tightly  down  ;  when  they 
are  taken  out  of  the  pickle,  lay  some  sticks 
across  the  pan  and  lot  them  drip  into  it, 
when  as  much  has  fallen  from  them  as 
will,  wipe  them  dry,  and  they  may  either 
be  cooked  at  once  or  dried ;  if  the  latter 
be  determined  upon,  after  having  well 
dried  them,  smoke  eight  hours  over  burnt 
sawdust  and  damp  straw,  or  sew  them  in 
a  cloth  and  send  them  to  the  baker,  and  let 
them  hang  seven  or  eight  days.  Do  not, 
as  in  the  other  receipt  boil  the  pickle 
before  using  the  first  time,  but  after  it 
has  been  once  used,  and  every  succeeding 
time,  observing  that  it  must  be  kept 
skimmed,  and  each  time  of  boiling  add  a 
quart  of  water  and  a  couple  of  pounds  of 
salt.  This  pickle  will  answer  equally 
well  for  hams  or  tongues. 

486.— HUNG  BEEF 

Take  twelve  to  fourteen  pounds  of  'the 
flank  of  beef,  throw  over  it  a  handful  of 
salt ;  let  it  drain  twenty-four  hours. 
Make  a  brine  of  one  pound  of  salt,  one 
ounce  of  saltpetre ;  let  them  be  quite  dry, 
and  pound  them  to  a  fine  powder  before 
using,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  bay  salt 
and  two  ounces  of  coarse  sugar.  If  it  is 
intended  to  make  the  beef  red,  add  three 
grains  of  cochineal ;  rub  the  beef  with 
this  brine  for  a  week,  and  then  turn  it ; 
let  it  remain  two  days,  and  then  rub  it 
again  for  seven  or  eight  days ;  then  let 
it  drain  from  the  pickle.  Send  it  to  the 
baker's  to  be  smoked.  Yvrhen  wanted  for 
dressing,  put  it  into  cold  water  more  than 
enough  to  cover  it,  boil  gradually  until 
enough,  and  put  it  under  a  heavy  weight 
while  hot.  It  may  be  served  with  car- 
rots and  greens,  or,  if  for  grating,  choose 
a  lean  piece,  put  it  in  boiling  water ;  keep 


it  boiling  rapidly ;  four  pounds  will  take 
an  hour. 

487.— BEEF  HUNG. 

The  best  piece  is  the  navel  piece,  it 
must  be  hung  up  in  a  cellar  until  it  is  a 
little  damp,  but  not  long  enough  to  change, 
take  it  down  and  wash  it  well  in  brown 
sugar  and  water,  dry  it  with  a  cloth,  cut 
it  in  two  or  three  pieces,  take  half  a  nound 
of  brown  sugar,  two  pounds  of  bay  salt 
dried  and  pounded  smal',  six  ounces  of 
saltpetre  dried  and  beat  fine,  rub  it  well 
into  the  beef,  then  rub  common  salt  over 
it  as  much  as  will  make  it  salt  enough ; 
let  it  lie  together  ten  days,  changing  the 
pieces  from  the  bottom  to  the  top  ;  hang 
it  where  it  may  have  the  warmth  of  the 
fire,  but  not  too  near ;  when  it  is  dressed 
boil  it  in  hay  and  water  until  tender; 
it  will  keep  two  or  three  months  ;  when 
mouldy  dip  it  in  water. 

488.— DUTCH  HUNG  BEEF. 

Rub  a  lean  piece  of  beef — about  twelve 
pounds — with  molasses,  and  turn  it  fre- 
quently, in  three  days  wipe  it  dry,  salt  it 
with  a  pound  of  salt  and  an  ounce  of  salt- 
petre in  fine  powder,  rub  well  in,  turning 
every  day  for  fourteen  days,  roll  it  as 
tightly  as  you  can  in  a  coarse  cloth,  lay 
a  heavy  weight  upon  it,  hang  it  to  dry  in 
the  smoke  from  wood,  reversing  it  every 
day,  boil  in  spring  water,  press  it  while 
hot  and  grate  or  rice  it  to  fancy. 

489.-EUMP  STEAK  STEWED. 

Cut  a  steak  about  an  inch  thick  with  a 
good  bit  of  fat,  fry  it  over  a  brisk  fire, 
place  it  in  a  stewpan  with  the  gravy,  a 
little  good  stock,  a  little  port  wine,  and 
some  chopped  mushrooms,  stew  gently  ; 
when  tender  put  into  it  some  good  brown 
sauce,  shake  it  gently  about ;  dish  it,  and 
put  scraped  or  grated  horseradish  on  the 
top ;  if  for  oysters  or  mushrooms,  see 
those  sauces ;  season  with  salt,  cayenne 
pepper,  and  sugar. 


260 


THE    PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


490.— RUMP  STEAK  PLAUS  BROILED. 

Cut  your  steak  not  so  thick  as  for  the 
former;  have  ready  a  good  clear  fire, 
put  your  gridiron  to  get  quite  hot,  then 
put  on  the  steak  at  full  length,  frequently 
stirring  it  with  your  steak  tongs,  a  few 
minutes  according  to  taste  will  do  it, 
place  it  on  your  dish,  put  a  good  slice  of 
butter  rubbed  all  over  it,  and  now  pepper 
and  salt  it.  Horseradish  on  the  top  of 
it,  and  frequently  sauces. 

491.— BAKED  BEEP. 

A  Rump  of  twenty  to  twenty-five 
pounds  weight. — Take  two  ounces  each 
of  pepper  and  allspice;  one  ounce  of 
pounded  cloves,  and  the  same  quantity 
of  mace ;  rub  this  all  over  the  joint^ 
which  should  be  hung  up  for  a  fortnight 
or  three  weeks,  according  to  the  weather 
— taking  care  to  keep  it  dry,  and  to  occa- 
sionally renew  the  seasoning.  When 
ready  for  baking,  wash  off  the  spice  with 
port  wine,  and  lard  the  rump  throughout 
— not  in  the  common  mode  used  by  poul- 
terers, but  by  inserting  large  lardoons  in 
different  parts  of  the  meat.  Then  put  a 
large  quantity  of  suet,  shred  fine,  both 
under  and  over  it,  and  cover  it  with 
coarse  flour  and  water  paste,  between 
which  and  the  suet  you  may  put  a  few 
bay-leaves  or  some  sweet  herbs.  If  eaten 
hot,  the  dough,  bay-leaves,  and  suet  must 
all  be  taken  off;  the  joint  basted,  sprin- 
kled with  a  little  salt  and  flour,  over 


Self-Basting  Dutch  Oven. 

which  a  salamander  should  be  passed; 
and  served  up  with  strong  gravy  or  brown 


sauce.  If  cold,  leave  on  the  dough  till 
wanted. 

It  should  be  baked  in  a  moderately- 
heated  oven,  and  will  take,  according  to 
the  size,  from  six  to  eight  hours'  bak- 
ing. 

A  Round  of  Beef  may  be  dressed  in 
the  same  manner ;  but  the  bone  should 
in  that  case  be  taken  out,  and  the  hole 
filled  up  with  forcemeat.  The  flap  should 
be  filled  in  like  manner,  skewered,  and 
tightly  bound  round  with  linen  or  strong 
tape,  in  which  case  the  dough  and  the 
larding  may  be  omitted,  though  the  latter 
will  be  found  an  improvement.  It  should 
be  always  left  until  cold. 

492.— BEEF  BRAINS  FRIED. 

Let  your  brains  be  properly  marina- 
ded, then  leave  them  to  drain ;  make  a 
preparation  with  warm  water,  a  little 
butter,  and  salt  some  flour,  and  a  spoon- 
ful of  oil,  and  the  whites  of  eggs  whipped 
to  snow,  mix  all  together  till  like  batter; 
dip  your  brains  into  this  batter,  and  then 
fry  them  a  nice  brown  color ;  when  fried 
let  them  drain  on  a  dry  cloth,  garnish 
with  fried  parsley. 

493.— BEEF  BRAINS  A  LA  SAUCE 
PIQUANTE. 

Cook  your  brains  in  a  marinade  ;  drain 
them,  put  them  on  a  dish,  and  pour  a 
sauce  piquante  all  over  them. 


494— BUBBLE  AND  SQUEAK. 

Sprinkle  some  slices  of  cold  boiled  beef 
with  pepper;  fry  them  with  a  bit  of  but- 
ter of  a  light  brown ;  boil  a  cabbage , 
squeeze  it  quite  dry  and  chop  it  small ; 
take  the  beef  out  of  the  frying-pan  and 
lay  the  cabbage  in  it ;  sprinkle  a  little 
salt  and  pepper  over  it;  keep  the  pan 
moving  over  the  fire  for  a  few  minutes  ; 
lay  the  cabbage  in  the  middle  of  the  dish 
and  the  beef  around  it. 


BEEF. 


261 


495.— BUBBLE  AND  SQUEAK 

Cut  slices  from  a  cold  boiled  round  or 
rump  of  beef;  let  them  be  fried  quickly 
until  brown,  and  put  them  into  a  dish  to 
be  kept  hot.  Clean  the  pan  from  the  fat ; 
put  into  it  greens  and  carrots  previously 
boiled  and  chopped  small,  or,  instead  of 
these,  large  onions  sliced  thin  and  fried, 
though  both  the  latter  are  sometimes 
omitted.  Add  a  little  butter,  pepper, 
and  salt ;  make  them  very  hot,  and  put 
them  round  the  beef  with  a  little  gravy. 

Cold  pork  boiled  is  thought  by  some 
to  be  a  better  material  for  bubble  and 
squeak  than  beef,  which  is  sometimes 
hard.  In  either  case  the  slices  should  be 
very  thin,  and  lightly  fried. 

496.— OX-TAILS. 

Cut  the  tails  in  pieces ;  lay  them  in  a 
stewpan,  with  butter  and  a  large  onion  ; 
set  them  over  a  smart  fire  to  make  them 
brown ;  peel  and  boil  a  couple  of  dozen 
of  button  onions  in  about  three  pints  of 
water,  for  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes ;  set 
them  by  and  pour  the  liquor  they  were 
boiled  in  upon  the  tails,  adding  sufficient 
boiling  water  to  cover  them  ;  put  in  six 
ounces  of  carrots,  and  eight  of  turnips, 
cut  into  slices,  or  balls  the  size  of  nut- 
megs ;  put  in  the  carrots  twenty  minutes 
before  the  turnips.  Be  careful  that  they 
are  not  stewed  too  fast  or  too  much. 
When  they  are  tender,  pass  the  gravy 
through  a  sieve ;  skim  off  the  fat,  and  pay 
great  attention  in  doing  so,  as  the  fat 
rises  while  the  tails  are  stewing.  Keep 
the  meat  and  vegetables  hot.  Thicken 
the  gravy  by  putting  an  ounce  of  butter 
into  a  stewpan ;  when  melted,  stir  in  as 
much  flour  as  will  stiffen  it.  Pour  the 
gravy  in  by  degrees,  stirring  it  till  it  boils ; 
s'train  it  through  a  sieve  into  a  stewpan, 
and  let  it  simmer  gently  till  the  meat  and 
vegetables  are  dished.  Lay  the  tails 
round  the  dish,  and  the  vegetables  in  the 
middle ;  pour  the  gravy  over ;  minced 
17 


gherkins  or  capers  may  be  added.  POUT 
boiling  water  over  the  onions  to  warm 
them,  and  put  them  round  the  dish  the 
last  thing. 

Or :-  Divide  them  at  the  joints,  blanch, 
and  parboil  them ;  put  them  into  a  stew- 
pan with  just  water  or  weak  broth 
enough  to  cover  them  ;  let  them  simmer 
over  a  gentle  fire,  and  remove  the  scum 
carefully  as  it  rises ;  then  put  in  an  onion, 
a  blade  of  mace,  and  a  little  pepper  and 
salt ;  put  them  on  again  to  simmer,  and 
when  sufficiently  done  add  a  spoonful  of 
essence  of  anchovy  and  some  flour  rolled 
in  butter.  This  is  an  excellent  and  nour- 
ishing dish. 

497.-TEIPE. 

Tripe  may  be  dressed  in  several  ways, 
but  whatever  mode  may  be  employed,  it 
will  always  be  found  an  improvement  to 
soak  it  for  a  whole  night  in  milk.  Some 
say,  seven  or  eight  days  in  salt  and  wa- 
ter. If  left  in  the  milk  until  that  gets 
sour,  the  acidity  thus  imparted  to  it  will 
render  it  still  better. 

Take  two  pounds  of  fresh  tripe,  cleaned 
and  dressed  by  the  tripe-dresser;  cut 
away  the  coarsest  fat,  and  boil  it  in  equal 
parts  of  milk  and  water ;  twenty  minutes 
to  half  an  hour  will  be  long  enough.  Boil 
in  the  same  water  which  boils  the  tripe, 
four  large  onions  ;  the  onions  should  be 
put  on  the  fire  at  least  half  an  hour  be- 
fore the  tripe  is  put  in  the  stewpan,  and 
then  made  into  a  rich  onion  sauce,  which 
serve  with  the  tripe. 

Tripe  is  cleaned,  dried,  cut  into  pieces, 
and  fried  in  batter,  and  served  with  melt- 
ed butter. 

Tripe  is  cut  into  slices ;  three  eggs  are 
beaten  up  with  minced  parsley,  sweet 
herbs,  onions  chopped  exceedingly  fine, 
parsley,  and  mushrooms.  The  tripe  is 
dipped  into  this  mixture,  and  fried  in 
boiling  lard. 

Tripe  may  be  cut  into  collops.  covered 
with  a  mixture  of  parsley,  onions,  and 


262 


THE    PRACTICAL    HOUSEKEEPER. 


mushrooms,  minced  exceedingly  fine,  and 
fried  in  clarified  or  fresh  butter.  Serve 
mushroom  sauce  with  it. 

Tripe  can  be  stewed  in  gravy  in  which 
put  parsley,  onions,  and  mushrooms,  or 
in  lieu  of  the  latter,  mushroom  ketchup. 
Thicken*  the  gravy  with  flour  and  butter. 
When  the  tripe  is  tender,  it  will  be  done. 
A  lemon  may  be  sent  to  table  with  it. 

498.— TO  STEW  OX-CHEEK. 

Clean  the  head  nicely,  then  soak  it  for 
some  hours  in  cold  water ;  put  it  into  a 
stewpan,  and  let  it  simmer  gently  till  it  is 
quite  tender ;  then  take  out  the  bones,  and 
tie  the  meat  up  in  a  cloth ;  put  a  weight 
upon  it,  and  let  it  stand  till  the  next  day ; 
make  a  forcemeat' of  any  white  meat,  and 
boil  six  eggs  hard;  cut  the  cheek  in 
slices ;  put  some  at  the  bottom  of  a  dish, 
then  a  layer  of  forcemeat,  then  one  of  the 
sliced  eggs,  another  of  meat,  and  so  on 
till  the  dish  is  full ;  season  with  pepper 
and  salt,  and  pour  in  as  much  of  the 
gravy  as  the  dish  will  hold ;  either  stew 
it  in  the  usual  way,  or  cover  it  with  a 
coarse  paste  and  send  it  to  the  oven  to  be 
baked  slowly.  The  paste  to  be  removed 
before  brought  to  table. 

499.— BEEF  TONGUE. 

If  it  has  been  dried  and  smolced,  before 
it  is  dressed  it  should  be  soaked  over- 
night; but  tf-jnty  pickled,  a  few  hours 
will  be  sufficient.  Put  it  into  a  pot  of 
cold  water,  and  set  it  over  a  slow  fire  for 


Tongue  Garnished. 

an  hour  or  two  before  it  comes  to  a  boil 


;hen  put  it  aside,  and  keep  it  simmering 
or  three  and  a  half  to  four  hours,  ac- 
cording to  its  size:  you  can  ascertain 
when  it  is  done  by  probing  it  with  a 
skewer.  Peel  it,  trim  the  root,  glaze  it, 
and  before  serving  surround  the  root 
with  a  paper  frill,  and  stick  a  flower  or 
two  on  the  top. 

Its  appearance,  and  its  flavor,  also, 
may  be  improved  by  rubbing  it  over, 
when  skinned,  with  yolk  of  egg,  on 
which  crumbs  of  bread  and  finely  minced 
sweet  herbs  may  be  strewed ;  then 
slightly  basting  it  with  butter,  and 
arowning  it  with  a  salamander. 

500.— TO  STEW  TONGUE. 

Salt  a  tongue  with  saltpetre  and  com- 
mon salt  for  a  week,  turning  it  every 
day ;  boil  it  tender  enough  to  peel ;  when 
done,  stew  it  with  a  moderately  strong 
gravy ;  season  with  soy,  mushroom- 
ketchup,  cayenne  pepper,  pounded  cloves, 
and  salt,  if  necessary.  Serve  with 
truffles,  morels,  and  mushrooms,  stewed 
in  gravy. 

501— AN   EXCELLENT   WAT    OF    PKEPAE- 
ING  TONGUES  TO  EAT  COLD. 

Season  with  common  salt  and  salt- 
petre, brown  sugar,  a  little  bay-salt, 
Pfipper,  cloves,  mace,  and  allspice,  in  fine 
powder,  for* a  fortnight;  then  take  away 
the  pickle,  put  the  tongue  into  a  small 
pan,  and  lay  some  butter  on  it ;  cover  it 
with  brown  crust,  and  bake  it  slowly  till 
so  tender  that  a  straw  will  go  through 
it ;  put  it  into  a  tin  mould,  and  press  it 
well,  laying  in  as  much  fat  as  possible. 

The  thin  part  of  tongues,  if  hung  up 
to  dry,  grates  like  hung  beef,  and  also 
makes  a  fine  addition  to  the  flavor  of 
omelets. 

502.— TO  EOAST  A  BEEF  TONGUE. 
Take  a  fine  large  fresh  tongue,  scald  it, 
and  take  off  the  skin ;  cut  it  off  at  the 
root  and  trim  it  neatly;   stick  a  few 


BEEF   ENTREES. 


263 


cloves  here  and  there  in  it,  and  put  it  in 
a  cradle-spit;  sprinkle  it  with  salt,  and 
baste  it  well  with  butter.  Serve  it  with 
a  good  sauce  in  a  sauceboat,  made  as 
follows : — Put  into  a  stewpan  half  a  pint 
of  port  wine,  with  about  half  the  quan- 
tity of  well  seasoned  gravy ;  reduce  it  to 
one-half;  then  stir  in  a  good  piece  of 
butter  and  a  table-spoonful  of  flour ;  add 
a  squeeze  of  lemon ;  when  the  butter  is 
melted  and  the  sauce  done,  place  the 
tongue  in  a  dish,  and  serve  hot  with  the 
sauce  poured  round.  In  Spain,  the  sauce 
is  strongly  impregnated  with  saffron. 

503.— FEESH  BEEF  TONGUE. 

Take  a  green  tongue,  stick  it  with 
cloves,  and  boil  it  gently  for  three  hours  ; 
then  brush  it  over  with  the  yolk  of  an 
egg,  dredge  it  well  with  bread-crumbs, 
and  roast  it,  basting  it  well  with  butter. 
When  dished,  serve  it  with  a  little  brown 
gravy  flavored  with  a  glass  of  wine,  and 
lay  slices  of  currant-jelly  round  it.  A 
pickled  tongue,  well  washed,  may  be 
dressed  in  the  same  way,  and  beef- 
udders  also. 

504— A  FEESH  NEAT'S  TONGUE  AND 
UDDEE 

May  be  roasted  together  in  the  manner 
thus  described;  but  when  ready  to  be 
dished,  instead  of  currant-jelly,  put  half 
a  pint  of  gravy  into  a  saucepan,  with  the 
juice  of  a  Seville  orange,  two  lumps  of 
sugar,  a  glass  of  claret,  and  a  piece  of 
butter  :  toss  the  whole  over  the  fire,  and 
serve  it  up  with  the  tongue  and  udder, 
garnishing  the  dish  with  slices  of  lemon. 
The  udder  should  be  stuck  with  cloves, 
and  both  should  be  continually  basted. 

505.— BEISKET  OF  BEEF,  STEWED. 

Take  any  quantity  of  brisket  of  beef 
required,  say  eight  or  ten  pounds,  cover 
it  with  water,  stew  it  tender,  bone  the 
beef  and  skim  off  the  fat,  strain  the 
gravy,  add  a  glass  of  port  wine,  flavor 


with  spice  tied  in  a  bag.  Have  boiled 
vegetables  ready  ;  cut  them  into  squares, 
and  garnish  the  beef  from  the  gravy 
round  it,  and  serve. 

606.— ENTBtfES 

Are,  in  common  terms,  what  are  call- 
ed made-dishes ;  of  course,  these  are  the 
dishes  upon  which,  in  the  high  class  of 
cookery,  the  talent  of  the  cook  is  dis- 
played. Great  care  should  be  observed 
in  dishing  them  up,  for  the  eye  is  a  great 
assistance  to  the  palate :  it  often  happens 
that  the  carelessness  of  the  servant  de- 
stroys the  labors  of  the  cook,  by  the 
manner  in  which  the  dish  is  taken  from 
the  kitchen  to  the  dining-room.  In  some 
measure  to  avoid  that,  Soyer  directs  a 
small  thin  border  of  mashed  potatoes, 
about  half  an  inch  wide  and  a  quarter  of 
an  inch  deep,  to  be  placed  on  the  bottom 
of  the  dish,  which  keeps  each  object  in 
its  place ;  they  should  always  be  served 
exceedingly  hot. 

.    .  507.— COW-HEELS. 

Ox-feet,  or  Cow-heels,  are  not  highly 
esteemed,  but  they  contain  much  nutri- 
ment, and  may  be  dressed  in  the  various 
ways  already  stated  for  tripe,  with  which 
they  are  commonly  boiled.  They  are 
frequently  eaten  cold,  with  mustard  and 
vinegar. 

Soak  them  well ;  boil,  and  serve  in  a 
napkin,  with  thick  melted  butter,  a  large 
spoonful  of  vinegar,  and  a  little  mustard 
and  salt.  Or  boil,  and  then  stew  them 
in  a  brown  gravy.  Or  cut  the  heel  hi 
four  parts,  dip  each  in  egg,  flour,  and  fry 
them  in  butter.  Or  fry,  and  serve  with 
onions  fried  and  put  round  them  :  sauce 
as  above. 

The  water  in  which  they  are  boiled 
will  make  equally  good  jellies,  either 
relishing  or  sweet,  with  that  of  calves' 
feet,  if  duly  prepared ;  and  at  a  far  less 
expense.  This  jelly  gives  great  addi- 


264 


THE   PRACTICAL    HOUSEKEEPER. 


tional  richness,  likewise,  to  soups  and 
gravies. 

508.-TO  FEY  OX-FEET,  OE  COW-HEEL. 

After  preparing  them  as  above,  cut 
them  into  small  pieces ;  have  ready  some 
bread  finely  crumbled,  dip  the  pieces  into 
the  yolk  of  an  egg  beaten  up,  and  roll 
them  in  the  bread-crumbs  mixed  with 
chopped  parsley,  pepper,  and  salt ;  fry 
them  in  butter  or  fresh  lard,  of  a  fine 
brown  color. 

509.— TO  POT  OX-FEET,  OE  COW-HEEL. 

Boil  them  in  fresh  water  till  the  bones 
can  be  easily  removed ;  cut  them  into 
small  pieces,  add  a  little  of  the  liquor, 
just  enough  to  moisten  it,  and  mix  with 
it  a  spoonful  of  vinegar,  some  pepper  and 
salt,  and  a  little  pounded  mace ;  put  it 
into  a  mould  and  turn  it  out  when  cold. 
It  is  eaten  with  vinegar  and  mustard. 

510— MAEEOW-BONES. 

If  too  long  to  serve  undivided,  saw 
them  in  two ;  cover  the  open  end  with 
a  lump  of  paste  and  a  cloth  floured  and 
tied  close ;  the  paste  must  be  removed 
before  sent  to  table.  Boil  one  and  a 
half  or  two  hours  according  to  the  size  ; 
put  a  ruffle  of  paper  round  each,  and 
serve  in  a  napkin,  with  very  hot  toast. 
The  marrow  is  spread  upon  the  toast, 
and  seasoned  with  pepper  and  salt. 

511.— B(EUF  A-LA-MODE. 

Cut  out  the  bone  from  the  beef;  then 
stuff  the  orifice  with  rich  forcemeat, 
made  with  veal  and  oysters,  and  the  crumb 
of  a  roll  steeped  in  milk.  Half  roast  it, 
and  before  it  is  put  into  the  stewpan  in- 
sert in  the  top  dried  and  pickled  mush- 
rooms, adding  mushroom-powder  in  the 
orifices ;  then  put  in  two  quarts  of 
gravy  made  from  the  bones  and  trim- 
mings, a  large  onion  stuck  with  cloves, 


and  two  carrots  cut  in  slices.  When  the 
beef  has  stewed  till  it  is  quite  tender, 
strain  and  thicken  the  sauce ;  add  to  it 
a  glass  of  wine,  mushrooms  and  oysters, 
and  sippets  of  fried  paste  ;  either  the 
mushrooms  or  oysters  may  be  omitted, 
if  the  pure  flavor  should  be  more  de- 
sirable: warm  a  few  pickles  with  the 
garnish  and  send  it  up  very  hot. 

512.-BEEF  A-LA-MODE.— (a  Philadelphia 
Eeceipt.) 

Cut  the  bone  out  of  a  round  of  fresh 
beef,  and  put  into  several  incisions  a 
dressing  made  of  bread-crumbs,  sweet 
herbs,  and  two  small  onions,  chopped 
fine,  with  seasoning  of  salt,  pepper,  mace, 
and  butter.  Lard  the  beef,  and  fasten 
up  the  slits,  and  tie  it  firmly  with  tape. 

Put  into  a  kettle  a  pint  and  a  half  of 
water,  with  a  few  slices  of  pork  ;  and. 
put  in  the  beef,  stuck  with  a  few  cloves ; 
cover  closely,  and  bake  it  several  hours. 
When  it  is  cooked  through,  dish  it  and 
pour  over  the  gravy,  which  may  be  in- 
creased in  quantity  by  the  addition  of  a 
little  boiling  water,  and  flour  to  thicken 
it,  with  a  spoonful  of  brown  sugar,  and 
a  glass  of  wine.  Serve  this  gravy  in  a 
tureen,  moistening  the  meat  with  it,  and 
garnishing  with  sliced  carrots  and  beets, 
and  parsley  or  celery. 

513.— THE  BATH  EECEIPT. 

Take  three  pounds  of  the  rump,  or  any 
part  of  the  beef  which  will  stew  well ; 
trim  it  nicely,  and  cut  off  all  the  fat. 
Chop  all  sorts  of  sweet  herbs  together 
very  finely,  with  a  little  shalot  and  a 
great  deal  of  spice,  and  put  them  into  a 
saucer  that  has  been  rubbed  with  gar- 
lic, and  cover  them  with  vinegar.  Cut 
fat  bacon  into  long  slips,  dip  it  into  the 
herbs  and  vinegar,  and  let  the  herbs  be 
very  thick  upon  the  bacon;  lard  the 
beef  regularly  on  both  sides,  if  neces- 
sary, in  order  that  it  should  be  thorough- 


BEEF. 


265 


ly  flavored.  Rub  the  beef  over  with  the 
remainder  of  the  herbs  and  spice.  Flour 
the  meat,  add  a  piece  of  butter,  the  size 
of  a  walnut,  rolled  in  flour,  and  a  pint  of 
water.  Bake  the  beef  in  an  oven,  strain 
the  gravy,  which  will  scarcely  require 
either  thickening  or  browning,  and  serve 
it  up  with  pickles  on  the  top.  It  is 
most  excellent  when  cold,  but  should  be 
served  up  hot  at  first.  The  gravy  may 
be  boiled  to  a  glaze  if  necessary.  It 
will  require  a  «good  deal  of  spice,  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  cayenne  pepper,  one  of  white 
pepper,  a  salt-spoonful  of  allspice,  half 
the  quantity  of  pounded  cloves,  and  a 
blade  of  mace  pounded. 

514.— FILLETS  OF  BEEF. 

Cut  the  inside  of  a  sirloin  or  rump  in 
slices  half  an  inch  thick ;  trim  them  neat- 
ly ;  melt  a  little  butter  in  a  saute  or  fry- 
ing-pan; season  the  fillets;  fry  them 
lightly  ;  serve  with  tomato  sauce,  sorrel, 
anchovy  butter,  or  gherkin  sauce. 

515.— FILLET  OF  BEEF  BEAISED. 

Take  the  inside  of  a  sirloin  of  beef, 
stuffed  or  plain,  but  rolled  together  s«  as 
to  bring  the  fat  into  the  centre.  Then 
strew  the  bottom  of  the  stewpan  with  a 
few  slices  of  ham,  in  which  a  small  quan- 
tity of  gravy  has  been  put,  just  to  pre- 
vent the  bottom  of  the  pan  from  burning ; 
and  on  this  place  the  meat,  covering  it 
with  chopped  carrots,  celery,  button 
onions,  and  a  pickled  chili,  together  with 
a  sliced  gherkin,  sweet  herbs,  salt,  mace, 
and  a  little  allspice,  and  simmer  until 
tender,  then  brown  it  before  the  fire  or 
with  a  salamander,  skim  and  season  the 
sauce,  and  send  the  meat,  sauce,  and  veg- 
etables up  in  the  same  dish. 

516.-BEEF8TEAK  1  LA  FRANCAISE 

Must  be  cut  either  from  the  sirloin  or 
some  other  prime  part  of  the  beef,  as 
rump  steaks  are  not  known  in  France. 
Pour  over  it  two  large  spoonfuls  of  the 


best  Lucca  oil,  and  let  it  remain  all  night ; 
then  put  it  and  the  oil  into  a  frying-pan, 
with  some  finely-chopped  parsley,  pep- 
per, and  salt ;  fry  it  until  the  gravy  dries 
up  and  it  becomes  rather  brown.  Pour 
the  contents  of  the  pan  over  the  steak  as 
sauce.  The  steaks  are  usually  garnished 
with  slices  of  fried  potatoes.  As  butter 
is  not  known  in  the  southern  states  of 
Europe,  oil  is  there  constantly  used  in 
lieu  of  it,  and  this  Parisian  practice  is 
borrowed  from  those  countries. 


517.— BEEF  IN  A  MARINADE. 

Cut  the  inside  of  a  sirloin  in  slices,  put 
them  into  a  marinade  made  as  follows : — 
Take  equal  quantities  of  vinegar  and 
water,  slice  some  carrots  and  onions,  add 
some  salt  and  a  few  pepper-corns  with  a 
clove  of  garlic.  Let  all  stew  together 
till  the  goodness  be  extracted  from  the 
vegetables,  then  strain  it.  and  let  it  stand 
till  cold.  Let  the  meat  lie  in  this  pickle 
for  twenty -four  hours  before  it  is  dressed ; 
then  let  it  stew  gently  in  a  little  good 
gravy  till  quite  tender.  Add  a  wine- 
glassful  of  port  wine,  a  table-spoonful  of 
mushroom  ketchup,  a  teaspoonfnl  of 
shalot  vinegar,  and  some  butter  rolled  in 
flour  ;  place  the  meat  neatly  in  the  dish, 
and  pour  the  sauce  over  it. 


518.— BEEF  A  LA  POLONAISE. 

Take  a  few  pounds  of  the  best  beef, 
without  bones,  and,  after  having  beaten 
it  for  some  time  with,  a  rolling-pin,  make 
in  it  deep  incisions,  but  without  cutting 
the  meat  asunder.  Mince  some  onions, 
mix  them  with  bread-crumbs,  butter, 
pepper,  and  salt;  fill  the  incisions  with 
this  forcemeat  and  skewer  up  the  meat. 
Put  it  with  some  butter  into  a  stewpan, 
and  stew  it  upon  a  moderate  fire.  It 
should  be  served  with  brown  sauce  made 
from  the  gravy  which  is  drawn  from  the 
meat. 


266 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


619,— 1  LA  HOUSSAED. 

Take  any  piece  of  fresh  beef,  prepared 
as  nearly  as  possible  in  the  same  manner ; 
but  instead  of  forcemeat,  fill  the  incisions 
with  pledgets  of  fat  ham  or  bacon :  sea- 
son with  pepper,  salt,  and  onion ;  lay  it 
in  an  iron  stewpan  that  has  a  cover  to  fit 
quite  close,  and  set  it  by  the  side  of  the 
fire  without  water.  Take  care  it  does 
not  burn,  but  it  must  have  a  strong  heat ; 
in  two  or  three  hours  it  will  be  quite 
tender,  and  then  serve  with  its  own  gravy. 

520.— BEEF  A  LA  MODE. 

There  are  several  methods  of  making 
this  dish;  the  hash  erroneously  termed 
alamode  beef,  sold  at  eating-houses,  is  a 
very  different  dish  to  the  true  beef  a  la 
mode.  The  following  is  called  the  "  old 
Bath  "  receipt. 

Take  a  quantity  of  the  buttock,  or  the 
leg-of-mutton  piece,  the  clod,  or  where  ex- 
pense is  not  an  object,  the  rump  of  beef 
as  lean  as  possible ;  cut  away  the  fat  if 
there  is  any,  make  a  mixed  powder  of 
cloves-  about  twenty  or  thirty,  the  same 
quantity  of  mace,  with  half  an  ounce  of 
allspice,  savory,  parsley,  a  handful  of 
thyme,  knotted  marjoram,  and  all  other 
sweet  herbs  chopped  very  fine  ;  mix  them 
in  a  glass  of  vinegar.  Take  some  fat 
bacon,  cut  it  into  slices  as  long  as  the 
beef  is  thick,  and  about  a  quarter  of  an 
inch  in  thickness,  roll  it  well  in  the  pow- 
dered spice  and  herbs,  make  incisions  of 
the  requisite  depth,  and  insert  the  bacon 
in  the  beef,  which  may  be  rubbed  well 
over  with  what  remains  of  the  powdered 
spice,  &c.,  in  the  vinegar;  then  dredge 
flour  over  the  beef,  place  it  in  a  baking 
dish  with  a  lump  of  butter  rolled  in  flour, 
with  a  pint  of  water ;  bake  it  in  the  oven, 
strain  the  gravy,  and  serve  with  pickles 
on  the  top ;  if  after  being  larded  it  should, 
instead  of  being  baked,  be  put  into  the 
stewpan,  add  to  it  as  much  water  as  will 
cover  it,  four  onions  chopped  fine,  half  a 
dozen  cloves  of  garlic,  as  many  bay  leaves. 


a  few  champignons,  half  a  pint  of  ale,  as 
much  port  wine ;  add  white  pepper,  cay- 
enne pepper,  and  salt,  a  teaspoonful  of 
pyroligneous  acid ;  strew  three  parts  of  a 
pint  of  fine  bread  raspings  over  it,  cover 
down  close  and  stew  six  or  eight  hours, 
according  to  the  size  of  the  beef ;  when  it 
has  stewed  sufficiently,  take  out  the  beef, 
keep  it  hot  over  boiling  water,  strain  the 
gravy,  remove  the  fat,  champignons.  &c. ; 
boil  up  again,  season  to  palate,  pour  the 
gravy  over  the  beef  and  send  to  table. 

This  is  sometimes  preferred  cold,  in 
which  case  serve  it  cut  in  slices,  with  the 
gravy,  which  will  be  a  jelly. 

521.— BEEF  A  LA  MODE.  (Soyer's.) 
Have  ready  six  pounds  of  rump  of 
beef,  cut  into  pieces  two  inches  square, 
each  of  which  lard  through  with  two  or 
three  strips  of  bacon;  have  also  two 
pounds  of  streaked  bacon,  which  clear 
from  the'  rind,  and  cut  into  squares  half 
the  size  of  the  beef,  put  the  whole  into  an 
earthen  pan,  with  two  calf's  feet,  (cut  up 
small,)  half  a  pint  of  sherry,  two  bay- 
leaves,  a  sprig  of  thyme,  a  bunch  of  pars- 
ley, four  onions,  with  a  clove  stuck  in 
each,  a  blade  of  mace,  and  half  a  pint  of 
water,  cover  the  pan  as  in  the  last,  and 
put  it  in  a  moderate  oven  for  three  hours ; 
when  done,  do  not  remove  the  lid  until 
three  parts  cold,  then  take  out  the  meat, 
lay  some  of  the  beef  at  the  bottom  of  a 
stewpan,  (not  too  large.)  then  a  little 
bacon,  then  more  beef,  and  so  on  alter- 
nately, press  them  lightly  together,  pass 
the  gravy  through  a  hair  sieve  over,  and 
leave  it  until  quite  cold  and  set,  when  dip 
the  stewpan  into  hot  water,  and  turn  it 
out  upon  a  dish  to  serve.  The  calf's  feet 
may  be  made  hot  in  a  little  of  the  stock, 
to  which  add  two  pats  of  butter,  with 
which  you  have  mixed  a  teaspoonful  of 
flour,  season  with  a  little  chopped  parsley 
and  half  a  spoonful  of  vinegar,  and  serve 
as  an  entree.  The  above  is  excellent 
either  hot  or  cold. 


BEEF. 


267 


522.— ALAMODE  BEEF.    (Kitchiner's  Eeceipt.) 

Take  about  eleven  pounds  of  the  mouse 
buttock,  clod,  or  blade-bone  of  beef,  or 
like  weight  of  veal ;  cut  it  into  pieces  of 
three  or  four  ounces  each ;  -put  two  or 
three  ounces  of  beef  drippings,  and  a 
couple  of  large  onions,  into  a  large  deep 
stewpan ;  as  soon  as  it  is  hot,  flour  the 
meat  and  put  it  into  the  stewpan,  stirring 
it  constantly  with  a  wooden  spoon ;  when 
it  has  been  on  about  ten  minutes,  dredge 
it  with  flour  and  keep  doing  so  till  you 
have  stirred  in  enough  to  thicken  it ;  then 
cover  it  with  boiling  water,  added  by 
degrees,  and  stirring  all  together,  (it  will 
take  about  a  gallon,)  skim  it  when  it 
boils,  and  then  put  in  one  drachm  of 
ground  black  pepper,  two  of  allspice,  and 
four  bay-leaves ;  set  the  pan  by  the  side  of 
the  fire,  and  let  it  stew  very  slowly  about 
three  hours;  when  the  meat  is  tender, 
put  it  into  a  tureen,  and  it  is  ready  for 
the  table.  A  nice  salad  may  be  served 
with  it. 

523.— A  FKICANDEAU  OF  BEEF. 

Take  a  nice  piece  of  lean  beef;  lard  it 
with  bacon  very  closely ;  put  it  into  a 
stewpan  with  a  pint  of  broth,  a  glass  of 
white  wine,  a  bundle  of  parsley,  all  sorts 
of  sweet  herbs,  a  clove  of  garlic,  a  shalot 
or  two,  four  cloves,  pepper  and  salt. 
When  the  meat  is  become  tender,  cover 
it  close  ;  skim  the  sauce  well,  and  strain 
it ;  set  it  on  the  fire,  and  let  it  boil  till 
it  is  reduced  to  a  glaze.  Glaze  the  lard- 
ed side  with  this,  and  serve  the  meat  on 
sorrel  sauce. 

524.— POTTED  BEEF. 

,To  a  pound  of  common  salt,  put  a 
quarter  of  an  ounce  of  saltpetre,  and  two 
ounces  of  coarse  sugar.  Rub  three 
pounds  of  lean  beef  with  this,  and  let  it 
remain  in  the  brine  fifty  hours.  Drain 
and  dry  it,  pepper  it  well  with  black 
pepper,  put  it  into  a  pan;  cut  half  a 


pound  of  butter  in  slices,  and  lay  round 
it ;  lay  a  paste  crust  over  ft,  and  bake  it 
very  slowly  for  four  hours  and  a  half. 
Let  it  get  cold,  and  then  cut  off  the  meat, 
being  careful  to  separate  the  stringy 
pieces  from  it:  pound  it  in  a  mortar, 
working  up  with  it  four  ounces  of  fresh 
butter,  and  some  of  the  gravy  from  the 
meat  when  baked,  seasoned  with  ground 
allspice,  a  little  mace,  and  pepper.  When 
the  meat  has  been  combined  with  the 
butter  and  gravy,  until  it  is  worked  into 
an  even  paste,  put  it  into  jars,  and  cover 
with  clarified  butter. 

If  it  is  purposed  to  keep  it  long,  cover 
it  with  bladder  skin.  The  beef  may  be 
potted  without  in  the  first  instance  being 
salted,  but  if  it  is  done  it  should  have 
salt  worked  up  with  it,  and  be  soon  eaten 
after  potting.  Some  persons  make  their 
potted  beef  of  meat  that  has  been  previ- 
ously cooked,  but  the  above  will  be  found 
to  be  the  best  receipt. 

525.— COW-HEEL. 

Having  been  thoroughly  washed,  scald- 
ed, and  cleaned,  cut  them  into  pieces 
about  two  inches  long,  and  one  wide ; 
dip  them  into  yolk  of  egg,  cover  them 
with  fine  bread-crumbs  mixed  with  pars- 
ley minced,  cayenne  pepper,  and  salt, 
and  fry  them  in  boiling  butter. 

526.— ANOTHER  WAT. 

Having  cleaned  the  feet,  bone  them, 
boil  them,  and  stew  them  in  a  rich  brown 
gravy;  serve  them  with  Indian  pickle,. 
Or,  if  plainly  cooked,  boil  until  enough  j 
then  serve  them  on  a  napkin,  with  melt- 
ed butter,  flavored  with  a  spoonful  of 
vinegar,  and  one  of  made  mustard.  Lem- 
on pickle  may  be  served  with  them. 

627.— BEEF  SAUSAGES. 

To  three  pounds  of  beef,  very  lean,  put 
one*  pound  and  a  half  of  suet,  and  chop 
very  finely ;  season  with  sage  in  powder, 


268 


THE   PRACTICAL    HOUSEKEEPER. 


allspice,  pepper,  and  salt;  have  skins 
thoroughly  cleaned,  and  force  the  meat 
into  them. 

528.— BEEP  HEART. 

Wash  it  very  carefully,  stuff  it  the 
same  as  you  would  a  hare ;  roast  or  bake 
it,  and  serve  with  a  rich  gravy  and  cur- 
rant jelly  sauce,  hash  with  the  same  and 
port  wine. 

529.— BEEF  HEART  ROASTED. 

Wash  thoroughly,  stuff  with  force- 
meat, send  it  to  table  as  hot  as  it  is  pos- 
sible with  currant  jelly  sauce;  it  will 
take  about  forty  minutes  roasting,  but 
this  depends  upon  the  fire. 

580.— BEEF  HEART. 

Let  it  be  thoroughly  well  cooked,  and 
the  skin  removed.  Wipe  it  dry  with  a 
clean  cloth ;  stuff  it  with  veal  stuffing ; 
roast  two  hours  and  a  quarter.  Make  a 
brown  gravy,  as  for  hare;  and  serve 
with  the  gravy  and  currant  jelly. 

The  most  pleasant  way  to  the  palate 
of  dressing  this  dish,  is  to  roast  the 
heart  for  rather  less  than  two  hours,  let 
it  get  cold,  cut  it  in  pieces,  and  jug  it  the 
same  as  hare. 

581.— STEWED  RUMP  OF  BEEF. 

Half  roast  the  beef;  then  place  it  in 
the  stewpan,  add  three  pints  or  two 
quarts  of  water,  according  to  the  weight 
of  the  joint,  two  wine  glasses  of  vine- 
gar, three  of  red  wine,  more  if  expense 
be  not  considered,  a  bottle  not  being  too 
much ;  cider  is  sometimes  used,  Jbut  the 
meat  may  be  stewed  without  it;  add 
three  spoonfuls  of  walnut  ketchup,  two 
or  three  blades  of  mace,  a  shalot,  a  des- 
sert-spoonful of  lemon  pickle,  cayenne 
pepper,  and  salt,  cover  the  stewpan  close 
down,  stew  gently  for  two  hours,  or 
three  if  the  rump  of  beef  be  large,  take 
it  up  and  place  it  in  the  dish  in  which  it 


is  to  be  served,  keeping  it  hot  in  the 
manner  previously  prescribed ;  remove 
the  scum  from  the  gravy  in  which  it  has 
been  stewed,  and  strain  it;  add  half  a 
pint  of  mushrooms,  three  table-spoon- 
fuls of  port  wine,  a  spoonful  of  Harvey's 
sauce,  thicken  with  flour  and  butter, 
pour  over  the  beef,  garnish  with  pickles, 
forcemeat  balls,  and  horseradish. 

582.— HUNTER'S  BEEF. 

Hang  for  three  days  a  round  of  beef 
of  twenty  pounds  ;  at  the  expiration  of 
that  time  rub  it  with  brine  composed  of 
three  ounces  of  saltpetre,  twelve  ounces 
of  salt,  a  spoonful  of  allspice,  one  of 
black  pepper,  an  ounce  of  coarse  brown 
sugar ;  before  it  is  rubbed  with  this  mix- 
ture it  must  be  boned,  and  it  must  be 
rubbed  well  every  day,  turning  for  a 
fortnight.  When  it  is  to  be  dressed  put 
it  into  a  stewpan,  pour  in  a  pint  of  water, 
shred  a  quantity  of  mutton  suet,  cover 
the  meat  with  it,  lay  over  it  a  thick  crust, 
attaching  it  round  the  edge  of  the  pan, 
tie  over  securely  with  paper,  and  bake 
for  six  hours  in  an  oven  moderately  heat- 
ed ;  take  away  the  paper  and  crust,  chop 
some  parsley  very  fine,  sprinkle  it  over 
the  beef,  and  serve  it  cold. 

It  will  keep  some  time ;  the  gravy  will 
make  a  good  flavoring  for  soups. 

583.— MINCED  BEEF  WITH  CUCUMBERS. 

Take  a  fine  rump-steak  undressed,  and 
with  a  sharp  knife  shred  it  very  fine. 
Put  it  into  a  stewpan  with  a  little  clari- 
fied butter  and  some  salt ;  stir  it  over  a 
quick  fire  for  a  few  minutes,  then  add 
half  a  pint  of  good  beef  gravy  ;  let  it  boil 
gently  till  it  becomes  of  a  proper  thick- 
ness. Cut  two  fine  cucumbers  in  slices 
the  thickness  of  a  crown -piece,  and  put 
them  with  an  onion  sliced  in  a  stewpan 
with  some  clarified  butter,  a  little  vinegar, 
a  lump  of  sugar,  and  fry  them  of  a  fine 
brown  color;  put  them  into  a  stewpan 


SOYER  8    BEEF    RECEIPTS. 


with  some  plain  sauce ;  let  it  simmer 
gently  till  sufficiently  done  ;  then  lay  the 
mince  in  the  dish,  and  pour  the  cucum- 
bers over  it ;  thicken  the  sauce  with  a 
li'tle  flour  and  butter;  add  the  squeeze 
of  a  lemon  just  before  serving. 

534— BEEF  COLLOPS. 

Cut  the  inside  of  a  sirloin,  or  any  other 
convenient  piece,  into  circular  shapes,  the 
size  and  thickness  of  a  half-crown,  flour 
and  fry  them  ;  sprinkle  with  pepper,  salt, 
chopped  parsley,  and  shalot ;  make  a  lit- 
tle gravy  in  the  pan ;  send  to  table  with 
gherkin  or  tomato  sauce. 


SOYER'S  RECEIPTS. 

585.— BUBBLE  AND  SQUEAK. 

I  am  certain  you  must  know,  as  well 
as  myself,  our  hereditary  dish  called  bub- 
ble and  squeak;  but,  like  the  prepara- 
tion of  other  things,  there  is  a  good  way 
and  a  bad ;  and,  as  you  prefer  the  former 
to  the  latter,  proceed  as  follows : — Boil  a 
few  greens,  or  a  savOy  cabbage  (which 
has  been  previously  well  washed),  in 
plain  water  until  tender,  which  then 
drain  quite  dry  in  a  colander  or  sieve, 
put  it  upon  a  trencher,  and  chop  it  rather 
fine  with  a  knife  ;  then  for  a  pound  of 
salt  beef  you  have  in  slices,  put  nearly  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  into  a  fry- 
ing-pan, in -which  saute  the  beef  gently 
but  not  too  dry  ;  when  done,  keep  it  hot, 
put  the  cabbage  in  the  frying-pan,  season 
with  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  and  when 
hot  through,  dress  it  upon  a  dish,  lay  the 
beef  over,  and  serve.  Endive  or  large 
cabbage-lettuces  may  be  used  instead  of 
cabbage,  but  care  must  be  taken  to  drain 
off  all  the  water. 

686.— BROILED  BONES. 

Divide  them,  rub  with  mustard,  pep- 
per, and  salt,  and  broil  over  a  clear  fire  ; 


serve  with  fried  potatoes;  and  a  little 
gravy  may  be  added. 

537.— TE1PE,  LYONS  FASHION. 

When  there  is  any  remaining  from  a 
previous  day,  dry  it  on  a  clean  cloth ; 
cut  them  into  pieces  an  inch  square ;  put 
into  an  omelette  or  saute  pan  one  or  two 
ounces  of  butter,  according  to  the  quan- 
tity ;  slice  thin  a  large  onion,  which  fry 
in  the  pan;  then  add  the  tripe,  saute 
them  for  five  minutes,  season  with  salt, 
pepper,  and  a  spoonful  of  vinegar  ;  serve 
very  hot. 

538.— OX  TAILS  A  LA  JAEDINIEEE. 

Cut  and  cook  two  ox  tails  as  directed 
for  soup,  but  just  before  they  are  done, 
skim  well,  and  take  out  the  pieces  of 
tails,  which  put  upon  a  dish ;  then  in 
another  stewpan  put  two  ounces  of  but- 
ter, to-  which,  when  melted,  add  three 
ounces  of  flour,  stirring  it  over  the  fire 
until  forming  a  brownish  roux  (thicken- 
ing), then  mix  by  degrees  two  quarts  of 
the  stock  the  tails  were  boiled  in,  and 
boil  all  together  ten  minutes ;  then  put 
in  the  tails,  with  one  carrot  and  two  tur- 
nips (cut  into  small  dice,  or  any  other 
shape,  with  a  vegetable  cutter),  and  about 
thirty  button  onions ;  let  the  whole  sim- 
mer 'very  gently  upon  the  corner  of  the 
fire,  keeping  it  well  skimmed,  until  the 
vegetables  are  tender,  and  the  sauce  suffi- 
ciently thick  to  adhere  to  the  back  of  the 
spoon ;  dress  the  meat  upon  a  dish,  re- 
duce the  sauce,  which  pour  over  and 
serve. 

539.— OX  TAILS  AU  GKATIN. 

Cook  two  ox  tails  as  before,  and  when 
cold,  dry  them  upon  a  cloth,  season  with 
pepper  and  salt,  have  a  couple  of  eggs 
well  beaten  upon  a  plate,  into  which  dip 
each  piece  singly,  afterwards  throwing 
them  into  a  dish  of  bread-crumbs,  to  cov- 


270 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


er  every  part,  then  beat  them  lightly 
with  a  knife,  and  again  egg  and  bread- 
crumb them,  broil  them  upon  a  gridiron, 
or  place  them  in  a  very  hot  oven  until 
of  a  brownish  color,  when  serve  with  any 
sauce  you  may  fancy,  or  a  little  plain 
gravy. 

540 —OX  HEAET. 

This  dish,  although  not  very  recherche, 
is  a  good  family  one,  and  remarkable  for 
its  cheapness.  Put  it  into  lukewarm  wa- 
ter, one  hour  to  disgorge ;  then  wipe  it 
well  with  a  cloth,  and  stuff  the  interior 
with  a  highly  seasoned  veal  stuffing ;  tie 
it  up  hi  paper,  and  pass  a  small  spit 
through  the  sides ;  set  it  before  a  good 
fire  for  about  two  hours  to  roast,  keep- 
ing it  well  basted — being  almost  deprived 
of  fat,  basting  is  thus  required;  when 
done,  take  off  the  paper,  and  serve  with 
any  sharp  sauce,  or  a  little  plain  gravy. 
Two  hours  will  be  sufficient  to  roast  a 
large  heart ;  but  if  smaller  of  course  less 
time  in  proportion  would  be  required. 
I  have  also  stuffed  a  heart  with  sage  and 
onion,  and  even  ventured  the  apple  sauce ; 
both  succeeded  admirably,  and  it  can  be 
baked  as  well  as  roasted. 

I  remember,  when  in  business,  upon 
one  occasion,  having  a  few  friends  pop  in 
unexpectedly  about  luncheon-time  upon 
a  Saturday  (which  is  a  day  I  always"  con- 
trive to  keep  my  larder  as  short  as  possi- 
ble). an,d  having  nothing  but  a  heart  as 
a  meal  to  give  them,  I  immediately  gave 
orders  to  the  cook  to  cut  it  into  slices 
half  an  inch  thick  ;  dip  each  piece  in  flour, 
and  afterwards  egg  and  bread-crumb 
them ;  then  to  put  four  spoonfuls  of  oil 
in  the  frying-pan,  lay  part  of  the  pieces 
in,  and  saute  of  a  nice  color,  then  to  keep 
them  hot  in  a  dish,  and  saute  the  remain- 
der ;  and  when  all  done,  to  pour  off  part 
of  the  oil ;  put  a  teaspoonful  of  flour  in 
the  pan,  mixing  it  with  the  remaining  oil 
and  gravy,  then  pouring  in  a  gill  of  wa- 


ter, season  with  a  little  pepper  and  salt, 
four  spoonfuls  of  the  vinegar  from  picca- 
lilly,  and  a  little  of  the  pickle  finely  chop- 
ped ;  boil  the  whole  a  minute ;  pour  over 
the  heart,  and  serve  very  hot.  It  pleased 
very  much,  and  they  made  a  hearty  meal 
from  it ;  and  I  have  since  had  some  with 
a  little  plain  gravy,  and  broiled  bacon : 
in  both  instances  it  was  very  good. 

541.— POTATO  SANDWICHES. 

Saute  the  slices  of  beef  as  directed  for 
bubble  and  squeak,  cover  one  side  of  each 
piece  with  mashed  potatoes  a  quarter  of 
an  inch  in  thickness,  egg  and  bread-crumb 
over,  then  proceed  the  same  with  the 
other  sides ;  fry  in  hot  fat  of  a  light  brown 
color,  as  you  would  a  sole,  and  serve. 
Any  kind  of  fresh  meat  may  be  used  the 
same  way. 

542.— FILLET  OF  BEEF  SAUTE. 

After  having  cut  the  fillet  in  slices, 
put  two  ounces  of  butter  into  a  clean 
frying-pan,  which  set  upon  the  fire,  and 
when  melted,  lay  in  the  meat,  seasoned 
with  a  salt-spoonful  of  salt,  and  half  that 
quantity  of  pepper  to  each  piece ;  turn 
them  over  three  or  four  times  whilst  cook- 
ing, and,  when  done,  dress  upon  your 
dish,  with  either  anchovy  or  maitre  d'h6- 
tel  butter. 

543.— ANOTHEB  METHOD. 

When  the  fillets  are  dished  up,  put  a 
table-spoonful  of  chopped  onions  into 
the  pan  they  were  cooked  in,  which 
cook  for  about  a  minute,  but  not  letting 
them  burn,  then  pour  off  part  of  the  fat, 
if  too  much,  and  add  two  teaspoonfuls 
of  flour ;  stir  with  a  wooden  spoon  until 
becoming  brownish,  then  add  nearly  a 
pint  of  water,  a  table-spoonful  of  vinegar, 
and  a  few  drops  of  browning ;  let  it  boil 
a  few  minutes,  seasoning  with  a  little 
pepper,  salt,  and  sugar ;  when  of  the  con- 
sistency of  a  thin  sauce,  pour  over  the 
fillets  and  serve.  A  few  chopped  pickles 


8OTEK  8   BEEF   RECEIPTS. 


271 


of  any  description  (but  not  too  hot) 
might  be  introduced,  but  then  half  the 
quantity  of  vinegar  would  be- sufficient. 
A  spoonful  of  Harvey's  sauce  may  be 
added,  and  a  little  glaze  improves  it. 

Mutton,  lamb,  or  pork-chops,  or  veal- 
cutlets,  may  be  dressed  in  a  similar  man- 
ner. 

544.— MINCED  BEEF. 

Cut  a  pound  and  a  half  of  lean  cooked 
beef  into  very  small  dice,  which  put 
upon  a  plate;  in  a  stewpan  put  a  good 
teaspoonful  of  finely  chopped  onions, 
with  a  piece  of  butter  of  fhe  size  of  a 
walnut,  which  stir  over  the  fire  until  the 
onions  become  lightly  browned,  when 
stir  in  half  a  table- spoonful  of  flour, 
with  which  mix  by  degrees  half  a  pint 
of  broth  (or  water)  to  which  you  have 
added  a  few  drops  of  browning  and  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  vinegar ;  let  it  boil  five  min- 
utes, stirring  it  the  whole  time,  then 
throw  in  the  meat,  season  rather  highly 
with  a  little  pepper  and  salt,  and,  when 
hot,  pour  it  into  a  deep  dish,  and  serve 
with  sippets  of  toasted  bread  round,  or 
poached  eggs  on  it. 

545.-CKOQUETTES  OF  BEEF. 

Proceed  precisely  as  in  the  last,  but 
omitting  the  vinegar  ;  when  done,  stir  in 
two  yolks  of  eggs  quickly,  stir  another 
minute  over  the  fire,  then  pour  it  upon 
a  dish  until  cold  ;  have  a  couple  of  eggs 
well  beaten  upon  a  plate,  also  some 
bread-crumbs  in  a  separate  dish,  then 
divide  the  preparation  into  about  a 
dozen  pieces,  which  roll  up  into  round 
balls,  or  any  other  shape,  and  throw 
them  into  the  bread-crumbs,  move  them 
over  until  well  covered,  then  roll  them 
into  the  egg,  then  the  bread-crumbs 
again,  from  which  take  them  gently, 
patting  the  surface  lightly  with  a  knife, 
put  them  into  very  hot  lard  or  fat  to  fry 
of  a  yellowish-brown  color,  being  careful 
not  to  break  them  whilst  frying ;  when 


done,  drain  them  upon  a  cloth,  and  serve 
either  upon  a  napkin,  or  with  fried  par- 
sley. 


546.— A  FAMILY  FEENCH  SALAD  FOE  THE 
SUMMEE. 

Cut  up  a  pound  of  cold  beef  into  thin 
slices,  which  put  into  a  salad-bowl,  with 
about  half  a  pound  of  white  fresh  lettuce, 
cut  into  pieces  similar  to  the  beef,  season 
over  with  a  good  teaspoonful  of  salt,  half 
that  quantity  of  pepper,  two  spoonfuls 
of  vinegar,  and  five  of  good  salad  oil, 
stir  all  together  lightly  with  a  fork  and 
spoon,  and  when  well  mixed  it  is  ready 
to  serve. 

For  a  change,  cabbage-lettuce  may  be 
used,  or,  if  in  season,  a  little  endive  (well 
washed),  or  a  little  celery,  or  a  few  gher- 
kins ;  also,  to  vary  the  seasoning,  a  little 
chopped  tarragon  and  chervil,  chopped 
eschalots,  or  a  little  scraped  garlic,  if  ap- 
proved of,  but  all  in  proportion,  and  used 
wi^h  moderation.-  White  haricot  beans 
are  also  excellent  with  it.  Remains  of 
cold  veal,  mutton,  or  lamb  may  be  dress- 
ed the  same  way. 


547.— POTATOES  AND  MEAT  SALAD. 

* 

Proceed  as  in  the  last,  but  omitting 
the  lettuce ;  if  any  cold  potatoes  remain 
from  a  previous  dinner,  peel  and  cut 
them  in  halves  if  small,  but  m  quarters 
if  large,  and  then  into  pieces  the  size  of  a 
shilling,  but  four  times  the  thickness; 
put  them  intq,  a  salad-bowl  with  the 
meat,  seasoning  as  before,  but  using  more 
oil  and  vinegar,  and  adding  a  teaspoonful 
of  chopped  parsley.  A  small  quantity 
of  any  description  of  pickles  might  be 
added  to  this  salad,  as  also  some  ancho- 
vies or  olives.  The  remains  of  any  fowls 
or  turkey  may  be  mixed  in  salads,  but 
according  to  our  habits,  many  persons 
would  fancy  they  were  not  nutritious ;  of 
that  I  can  assure  them  to  the  contrary. 

The  quantity  of  the  meat  and  vege- 


272 


THE   PRACTICAL    HOUSEKEEPER. 


table  should  pretty  equally  balance  with 
each  other ;  after  such  a  meal,  a  man's 
appetite  is  perfectly  satisfied,  and  he  is 
ready  for  an  afternoon's  work  if  required. 
It  also  does  not  require  the  aid  of  any 
fire,  which  we  so  ungratefully  abhor  in 
hot  weather.  Mr.  B.  very  much  ap- 
proves of  this  dish  once  a  week  in  sum- 
mer 

548.— OX  KIDNEYS. 

Cut  a  nice  fresh  ox-kidney  into  slices, 
each  being  about  the  size  of  a  half  crown 
piece,  but  double  the  thickness  (avoiding 
the  white  part,  or  root,  which  is  tough 
and  indigestible),  then  put  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  butter  into  a  stewpan  upon  the 
fire,  and  when  very  hot  but  not  black.' 
put  in  the  pieces  of  kidney,  stirring  them 
round  with  a  wooden  spoon  three  min- 
utes over  a  brisk  fire ;  then  add  for  each 
pound  weight  of  kidney,  half  a  table- 
spoonful  of  flour,  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
salt,  half  that  quantity  of  pepper,  and  a 
little  sugar,  moisten  with  a  gill  of  water 
and  half  a  glass  of  sherry,  add  a  little 
browning,  if  handy,  and  let  simmer 
gently  for  five  minutes,  stirring  them 
round  occasionally;  if  too  thick,  add  a 
few  drops  more  water,  the  same  should 
be  sufficiently  thick  to  adhere  to  the 
back  of  the  spoon,  pour  them  out  upon 
your  dish,  and  serve  very  hot.  Broth 
might  be  used  instead  of  water  if  conve- 
nient, but  then  the  seasoning  should  be  a 
little  diminished,  a  little  „ chopped  escha- 
lot, parsley,  or  a  few  mushrooms,  would 
be  an  improvement. 

By  cutting  an  ox-kidney  lengthwise  in 
three  slices,  it  might  be  broiled  or  sau- 
teed;  if  for  gentlemen  season  rather 
highly,  but  if  ladies  are  to  be  the  par- 
takers, season  more  moderately ;  a  little 
gravy  may  be  served  with  it,  to  which 
you  have  added  at  little  ketchup;  the 
root  of  the  kidney  must  not  be  cut  away 
in  this  case,  although  not  eatable.  Ox- 


kidneys  are  also  an  excellent  addition  to 
beef- steak  puddings  and  pies. 

549.— OX-FEET  OB  COW-HEELS 
Are  very  nutritious,  especially  when 
well  boiled :  they  may  be  served  in  either 
of  the  methods  directed  for  tripe,  or  with  a 
plain  parsley-and-butter  sauce,  to  which, 
for  a  change,  the  juice  of  a  lemon  or  a 
drop  of  vinegar  may  be  added.  Should 
any  be  left  from  the  first  day's  dinner  it 
may  be  served  a  la  Lyonnaise,  as  directed 
for  cold  tripe. 

550.-KEMAINS  OF  OX-TONGUE. 

The  remains  of  a  tongue  from  a- pre- 
vious dinner  may  be  again  served  thus : — 
Cut  it  into  thin  slices,  put  a  small  piece 
of  butter  into  a  frying-pan,  lay  the  pieces 
of  tongue  over,  which  warm  a  few  min- 
utes in  a  saute-pan,  and  serve  with  veal 
or  fowl  if  any;  when  at  home  alone,  I 
frequently  have  it  with  mashed  potatoes 
under  it ;  it  makes  a  very  good  dish  for 
luncheon.  The  pieces  of  tongue  might 
also  be  egged  and  bread-crumbed  pre- 
vious to  cooking  as  above,  and  served 
with  a  plain  gravy,  or  any  sharp  sauce. 
(See  SAUCES.)  Or  should  you  have  any 
tongue,  and  veal,  and  beef  remaining, 
sprinkle  a  little  chopped  shalots  at  the 
bottom  of  a  pie-dish,  lay  a  layer  of  meat 
over,  season  with  a  little  salt,  pepper, 
and  chopped  parsley,  then  a  layer  of  the 
tongue;  have  some  yellowish  crusts  of 
bread  grated,  a  teaspoonful  of  which 
sprinkle  over  the  tongue,  then  again  a 
layer  of  the  meat,  proceeding  thus  until 
the  dish  is  nearly  full,  when  sprinkle 
more  of  the  brown  bread-crumbs  over 
the  top,  placing  a  small  piece  of  butter 
here  and  there ;  pour  in  two  wine-glass- 
fuls of  water,  set  it  in  a  warm  oven  half 
an  hour,  and  serve  very  hot.  Or  instead 
of  bread-crumbs,  make  a  little  good 
mashed  potato,  which  spread  over  it 
smoothly  with  a  spoon  or  knife,  bake 
half  an  hour  in  a  warm  oven,  and  serve. 


SOYEK  S    BEEF   RECEIPTS. 


273 


Should  the  remains  of  a  tongue  be  but 
small,  and  if  well  pickled  and  boiled,  the 
root  and  all  would  be  excellent  in  any 
kind  of  beef,  lamb,  mutton,  veal,  or  pork, 
hashed,  or  in  pies  or  puddings  made  from 
these  meats. 

551.— REMAINS  OF  SALT  BEEF. 

The  -remains  of  salt  beef  are  very  ex- 
cellent served  in  the  few  following  ways, 
no  matter  from  what  joint,  or  from  what 
part  of  the  joint :  Cut  as  large  and  thin 
slices  as  possible,  dip  each  slice  into  some 
vinegar  from  mixed  pickles,  previously 
poured  upon  a  plate  in  small  quantities  ; 
lay  about  a  pound  of  the  meat  thus  pre- 
pared upon  a  flat  dish,  pour  a  wine-glass- 
ful of  water  over,  warm  it  through  in  the 
oven,  or  before  a  slow  fire,  and  serve. 
Another  way  is,  after  having  dipped  the 
beef  in  the  vinegar,  roll  them  in  flour, 
and  proceed  as  above,  adding  double  the 
quantity  of  water.  Another  way  is  to 
saute  the  slices  with  a  little  butter  in  a 
frying-pan,  have  ready  some  nice  mashed 
potatoes  very  hot,  lay  the  beef  over,  and 


552.-COLD  BEEF. 

If  any  be  left  from  a  previous  dinner, 
put  it  in  a  dish,  placing  the  meat  in  the 
centre,  rather  higher,  cover  over  with 
some  delicate  mashed  potatoes,  about 
two  inches  in  thickness,  to  form  a  dome, 
rub  some  egg  over  with  a  paste-brush, 
and  sprinkle  crumbs  of  bread  (either 
grated  or  otherwise)  upon  the  top,  and 
set  it  in  the*  oven  until  well  browned, 
when  serve. 

553.-BEEF  BROTH. 

Take  a  leg  of  beef,  wash  it  clean,  crack 
the  bone  in  two  or  three  parts,  put  i1 
into  a  pot  with  a  gallon  of  water,  skim  i1 
well,  then  put  two  or  three  blades  of 
mace  in  a  little  bundle  of  parsley,  and  a 
crust  of  bread,  let  it  boil  till  the  beef  is 
quite  tender,  toast  some  bread,  cut  it  into 


Ice.  put  them  into  a  tureen,  lay  in  the 
meat,  and  pour  the  soup  over  it. 

554.— MARROW  BONES. 

They  must  be  sawn  into  convenient 

izes ;  cover  the  ends  with  a  little  dough 

made  of  flour  and  water,  and  tie  them  in 

a  floured  cloth,  boil  them  an  hour  and  a 

lalf,  serve  on  a  napkin  with  dry  toast. 

555.— BAKED  MARROW  BONES. 

The  bones  should  be  prepared  as  above 
,nd  laid  in  a  deep  dish,  then  put  into  an 
3ven  and  bake  gently  for  two  hours. 
They  are  sometimes  cooked  in  batter, 
but  if  so,  the  marrow  should  be  cleared 
rom  the  bones  and  put  in  buttered  cases 
made  of  clean  foolscap  paper ;  let  them 
ie  in  the  batter  and  serve  with  them  in 
t ;  when  the  batter  is  baked  the  marrow 
will  be  also  done. 

556.-CURRIED  BEEF,  MADRAS  WAY. 

Take  about  two  ounces  of  butter,  and 
place  it  in  a  saucepan,  with  two  small 
onions  cut  up  into  slices,  and  let  them 
fry  until  they  are  of  a  light  brown  ;  then 
add  a  table-spoonful  and  a  half  of  curry 
powder,  and  mix  it  up  well.  Now  put 
in  the  beef  cut  into  pieces  about  an  inch 
square ;  pour  in  from  a  quarter  to  a  third 
of  a  pint  of  milk,  and  let  it  simmer  for 
thirty  minutes;  then  take  it  off.  and 
place  in  a  dish,  with  a  little  lemon  juice. 
Whilst  cooking  stir  constantly,  to  prevent 
it  burning.  Send  to  table  with  a  wall  of 
mashed  potatoes  or  boiled  rice  round  it. 

It  greatly  improves  any  curry  to  add 
with  the  milk  a  quarter  of  a  cocoa-nut, 
scraped  very  small,  and  squeezed  through 
muslin  with  a  little  water;  this  softens 
the  taste  of  the  curry,  and,  indeed,  no 
curry  should  be  made  without  it. 

557.— BEEF  PALATES. 

Simmer  them  in  water  several  hours, 
till  they  will  peel ;  then  cut  the  palates 
into  slices,  or  leave  them  whole,  as  you 


274: 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


choose,  and  stew  them  in  a  rich  gravy 
till  quite  tender.  Before  you  serve,  sea- 
son them  with  cayenne,  salt,  and  ketchup. 
If  the  gravy  was  drawn  clear,  give  it  a 
boil  with  some  butter  and  flour. 

If  to  be  served  white,  boil  them  in  milk, 
and  stew  them  in  fricassee-sauce ;  adding 
cream,  butter,  flour,  and  mushroom  pow- 
der, and  a  little  pounded  mace. 

553.— PEESSED  BEEF. 

Procure  a  piece  of  brisket  of  beef,  cut 
off  the  bones,  and  salt  it.  adding  a  little 
sal  prunella  to  the  brine  and  a  little 
spice ;  let  the  beef  remain  in  pickle  rather 
better  than  a  week ;  when  ready  to  cook, 
roll  it  round,  tie  it  in  a  cloth,  and  let  it 
simmer  gently  in  plenty  of  water  about 
seven  hours  if  a  whole  one,  but  four 
hours  if  only  the  thin  end ;  whe.n  done 
take  it  up,  remove  the  string,  and  tie  the 
cloth  at  each  end,  put  it  upon  a  dish  with 
another  dish  over,  upon  which  place  half 
a  hundred  weight,  leaving  it  until  quite 
cold,  then  take  the  meat  from  the  cloth, 
trim  and  glaze  it  lightly,  and  serve  gar- 
nished with  a  few  sprigs  of  fresh  parsley. 

559.— PICKLE  FOE  BEEF  1  LA  GAEEICK. 

Take  twenty  pounds  of  salt,  three- 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  saltpetre,  four 
cakes  of  sal  prunella,  two  pounds  of  moist 
sugar,  two  cloves  of  garlic,  with  which 
rub  the  meat  well,  and  leave  it  rather 
more  than  a  week,  rubbing  and  turning 
it  over  every  day. 

This  pickle  is  adapted  for  any  thing 
that  is  required  red. 

560.-SPICED  BEEF. 

Procure  a  piece  of  thin  flank  of  beef 
about  ten  pounds  in  weight,  which  salt 
as  the  last  for  about  a  week ;  when  ready 
split  it  open  with  a  knife  and  lay  it  out 
flat  upon  a  dresser,  having  previously 
prepared  six  onions  chopped  very  fine, 
with  about  ten  sprigs  of  parsley,  and  the 


leaves  of  ten  sprigs  of  thyme,  the  same  of 
marjoram,  two  ounces  of  mixed  spice, 
(without  cinnamon,)  and  half'an  ounce 
of  black  pepper,  mix  all  together,  spread 
half  upon  the  beef  as  it  lays  before  you, 
then  fold  it  over  to  its  original  shape,  lay 
on  the  remainder  of  the  preparation,  roll 
it  up  tightly  in  a  cloth,  boil,  press,  and 
serve  as  directed  in  the  last  article. 

561.— TO  FEICASSEE  COLD  EOAST  BEEF. 

Cut  the  beef  into  slices,  which  should 
be  very  thin,  put  it  with  some  strong 
broth  into  a  stewpan,  add  parsley  chopped 
small,  an  onion  scored,  and  a  piece  of 
butter,  simmer  fifteen  minutes,  add  a 
glass  of  port  wine,  a  teaspoonful  of  pyro- 
ligneous  acid,  and  the  yolk  of  a  couple  of 
eggs;  mix  well,  stew  quickly,  pot  the 
dish,  rub  it  with  a  shalot,  pour  fricassee 
into  it,  and  serve. 

562.— BEEF  FEICANDEAU. 

Take  a  piece  of  beef  as  lean  as  you  can 
obtain  it,  lard  it  well  over  on  one  side 
with  pieces  of  bacon.  Place  in  a  stewpan 
an  eschalot,  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  a 
faggot  of  parsley,  a  little  cloves,  three 
parts  of  a  quart  of  good  broth,  one  glass 
of  sherry,  and  pepper  and  salt  to  palate. 
'A  clove  of  garlic  may  be  added  to  the 
eschalot  if  it  is  not  found  of  sufficient 
strength  to  flavor  it  without.  Put  on 
the  meat,  and  stew  until  tencler,  take  out 
the  gravy,  keep  the  meat  covered  down 
close,  skim  and  strain  the  sauce,  boil  it 
until  reduced  to  a  glaze.  Glaze  the  beef 
with  it  on  the  side  larded,  and  serve  with 
sauce  piquante,  or  sauce  sorrel. 

56a— STEASBUEG  POTTED  MEAT. 

Take  a  pound  and  a  half  of  the  rump 
of  beef,  cut  into  dice,  and  put  into  an 
earthen  jar,  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  butter  at  the  bottom,  tie  the  jar  close 
up  with  paper,  and  set  over  a  pot  to  boil ; 
when  nearly  done,  add  cloves,  mace,  all- 


BEEF. 


275 


spice,  nutmeg,  salt,  and  cayenne  pepper 
to  taste ;  then  boil  till  tender,  and  let  it 
get  cold.  Pound  the  meat,  with  four 
anchovies  washed  and  boned,  add  a  quar- 
ter of  a  pound  of  oiled  butter,  work  it 
well  together  with  the  gravy,  warm  a 
little,  and  add  cochineal  to  color.  Then 
press  into  small  pots,  and  pour  melted 
mutton  suet  over  the  top  of  each. 

564.— A  CULLIS. 

You  must  take  meat  according  to  the 
number  of  guests ;  if  ten  or  twelve,  a  leg' 
of  veal  and  a  ham  will  be  necessary,  with 
all  the  fat,  skin,  afid  outside  cut  off;  cut 
the  leg  of  veal  into  pieces  about  three 
or  four  inches  thick  each  way,  place  them 
in  a  stewpan,  and  then  the  slices  of  ham,, 
two  carrots,  and  an  onion  cut  in  two, 
cover  it  close,  let  it  stew  gently  at  first, 
and  as  it  begins  to  brown,  take  off  the 
cover  and  turn  it  to  color  on  all  sides  the 
same,  but  take  care  not  to  burn  the  meat ; 
when  it  has  a  pretty  brown  color,  moisten 
your  cullis  with  broth  made  of  beef  or 
other  meat,  season  the  cullis  with  a  little 
sweet  basil,  some  cloves,  and  a  little  gar- 
lic ;  pare  a  lemon,  cut  it  in  slices  and  put 
it  into  the  cullis  with  some  mushrooms. 
Put  into  a  stewpan  a  good  lump  of  but- 
ter, and  set  it  over  a  slow  fire  ;  put  into 
it  two  or  three  handfuls  of  flour,  stir  it 
with  a  wooden  *ladle,  and  let  it  take  a 
color ;.  if  the  cullis  be  pretty  brown  you 
must  put  in  some  flour,  the  flour  being 
brown  with  the  cullis,  pour  it  gently  into 
the  cullis,  keeping  it  stirring  with  a 
wooden  ladle,  then  let  the  cullis  stew 
softly  and  skim  off  all  the  fat ;  put  in  two 
glasses  of  champagne  or  other  white 
wine,  but  take  care  to  keep  the  cullis 
very  thin,  so  that  you  may  take  the  fat 
well  off  and  clarify  it ;  you  must  clarify  it 
by  putting  it  into  a  stove  that  draws 
well,  cover  it  close  and  let  it  boil  without 
uncovering  until  it  boils  over,  then  un- 
cover and  take  off  the  fat  that  is  round 
the  stewpan,  then  wipe  it  off  the  cover 


also  and  cover  it  again ;  when  the  cullis 
is  done  take  out  the  meat  and  strain  the 
cullis  through  a  silken  strainer ;  this  cul 
Us  is  for  all  sorts  of  ragouts,  fowls,  pies, 
and  tureens. 

565.— BUBBLE  AND  SQUEAK.    (New  Eeceipt.) 

Cut  into  pieces,  convenient  for  frying, 
cold,  roast  or  boiled  beef;  pepper,  salt, 
and  fry  them ;  when  done,  lay  them  on  a 
hot  drainer,  and  while*  the  meat  is  drain- 
ing from  the  fat  used  in  frying  them,  have 
in  readiness  a  cabbage  already  boiled  in 
two  waters ;  chop  it  small,  and  put  it  in 
the  frying-pan  with  some  butter,  add  a 
little  pepper  and  salt,  keep  stirring  it, 
that  all  of  it  may  be  equally  done.  When 
taken  from  the  fire,  sprinkle  over  the 
cabbage  a  very  little  vinegar,  only  enough 
to  give  it  a  slight  acid  taste.  Place  the 
cabbage  in  the  centre  of  the  dish ;  and 
arrange  the  slices  of  meat  neatly  around 
it. 

566.— LOBSCOUS. 

Mince,  not  too  finely,  some  cold  roast 
beef  or  mutton.  Chop  the  bones,  and 
put  them  in  a  saucepan  with  six  potatoes 
peeled  and  sliced,  one  onion,  also  sliced, 
some  pepper  and  salt ;  of  these  make  a 
gravy.  When  the  potatoes  are  completely 
incorporated  with  the  gravy,  take  out  the 
bones,  and  put  in  the  meat ;  stew  the 
whole  together  for  an  hour  before  it  is  to 
be  served. 


567.— BEEF  EISSOLES. 

Mince  and  season  cold  beef,  and  flavor 
it  with  mushroom  or  walnut  ketchup. 
Make  of  beef  dripping  a  very  thin  paste, 
roll  it  out  in  thin  pieces  about  four  inches 
square ;  enclose  in  each  piece  some  of  the 
mince,  in  the  same  way  as  for  puffs,  cut- 
ting each  neatly  all  round  ;"fry  them  in 
dripping  of  a  very  light  brown.  The 
paste  can  scarcely  be  rolled  out  too  thin. 


276 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


SEA  COOKERY. 

568.— FIE8T  WATCH  STEW. 

Cut  pieces  of  salt  beef,  and  pork  into 
dice,  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  six 
whole  peppercorns,  two  blades  of  mace, 
a  few  cloves,  a  teaspoonful  of  celery 
seeds,  and  a  faggot  of  dried  sweet  herbs  ; 
cover  with  water,  and  stew  gently  for  an 
hour,  then  add  fragments  of  carrots,  tur- 
nips, parsley,  or  any  other  vegetables  at 
hand,  with  two  sliced  onions,  and  some 
vinegar  to  flavor  ;  thicken  with  flour,  or 
rice,  remove  the  herbs  and  pour  into  the 
dish  with  toasted  bread,  or  freshly  baked 
biscuit  broken  small,  and  serve  hot. 
When  they  can  be  procured,  a  few  pota- 
toes improve  it  very  much. 

569.— SEA  PIE. 

Make  a  thick  pudding  crust,  line  a  dish 
with  it,  or  what  is  better,  a  cake  tin,  put 
a  layer  of  sliced  onions,  then  a  layer  of 
salt  beef  cut  in  slices,  a  layer  of  sliced 
potatoes,  a  layer  of  pork,  and  another  of 
onions ;  strew  pepper  over  all,  cover  with 
a  crust,  and  tie  down  tightly  with  a  cloth 
previously  dipped  in  boiling  water  and 
floured.  Boil  for  two  hours,  and  serve 
hot  in  a  dish. 


YEAL. 

THE  failing  of  this  meat  is  its  tendency 
to  turn;. should  it  show  any  symptoms 
of  doing  this,  put  it  into  scalding  water 
and  let  it  boil-for  seven  or  eight  minutes, 
with  some  pieces  of  charcoal  affixed ; 
plunge  it  into  cold  water  immediately 
after  taking  it  out  of  the  hot,  and  put  it 
into  the  coolest  place  you  have  at  com- 
mand ;  the  skirt  from  the  breast,  and 
the  pipe  from  the  loin  should  always  be 
removed  in  hot  weather. 

Veal  of  about  two  or  three  months  old 
is  the  best ;  the  flesh  ought  to  be  white, 
approaching  to  pink,  and  the  fat  firm ; 


it  is  cut  up  the  same  as  mutton,  except 
that,  in  the  hind-quarter,  the  loin  is  cut 
straight,  leaving  the  aitch-bone  on  it, 
which  may  be  either  dressed  on  the  loin 
or  separate.  The  fore-quarter  consists 
of  the  shoulder,  neck,  and  breast.  The 
hind-quarter,  of  the  knuckle,  leg,  fillet,  and 
the  loin.  The  head  and  pluck  consist  of 
the  heart,  liver,  nuts,  skirts,  melt,  and 
the  heart,  throat,  and  sweetbread. 

The  bull-calf  is  the  best ;  the  flesh  is 
firmer  grained  or  redder,  and  the  fat 
more  curdled  than  the  cow-calf,  which 
latter  is  in  general  preferred,  being  more 
delicate  and  better  adapted  for  made 
dishes,  as  having  the  udder.  To  keep 
veal,  we  have  to  observe — the  first  part 
that  turns  bad  of  a  leg  of  veal  is  where 
the  udder  is  skewered  back.  The  skewer 
should  be  taken  out,  and  both  that  and 
the  whole  of  the  meat  wiped  every  day ; 
by  which  means  it  will  keep  good  three 
or  four  days  in  hot  weather,  if  the  larder 
be  a  good  one.  Take  care  to  cut  out 
the  pipe  that  runs  along  the  chine  of  a 
loin,  as  you  do  of  beef,  to  hinder  it  from 
tainting.  The  skirt  of  the  breast  is 
likewise  to  be  taken  off.  and  the  inside 
wiped  and  scraped,  and  sprinkled  with  a 
little  salt. 

If  veal  is  in  danger  of  not  keeping, 
wash  it  thoroughly,  and  boil  the  joint 
ten  minutes,  putting  it  into  the  pot  when 
the  water  is  boiling  hot;  then  put  it 
into  a  very  cool  larder,  or  plunge  it  into 
cold  water  till  cool,  and  then  wipe  and 
put  it  by.  If  in  the  least  tainted,  it  can- 
not be  recovered,  as  brown  meats  are, 
by  the  use  of  charcoal  or  pyroligneous 
acid. 


570.— VEAL— THE  FILLET. 

The  fillet  derives  much  of  its  pleasant 
flavor  from  being  stuffed.  Veal  in  it- 
sel  being  nearly  tasteless,  the  stuffing 
should  be  placed  in  the  hollow  place 
from  whence  the  bone  is  extracted,  and 


VEAL. 


277 


the  joint  should  be  roasted  a  beautiful 
brown;  it  should  be  roasted  gradually, 
as  the  meat  being  solid  will  require  to 
be  thoroughly  done  through  without 
burning  the  outside ;  like  pork,  it  is 
sufficiently  indigestible  without  being 
sent  to  table  and  eaten  half  cooked;  a 
dish  of  boiled  bacon  or  ham  should  ac- 
company it  to  table,  a  lemon  also. 
%  In  roasting  veal,  care  must  be  taken 
that  it  is  not  at  first  placed  too  near  the 
fire ;  the  fat  of  a  loin,  one  of  'the  most 
delicate  joints  of  veal,  should  be  covered 
with  greased  paper ;  a  fillet  also,  should 
have  on  the  caul  until  nearly  done 
enough :  the  shoulder  should  be  thorough- 
ly boiled ;  when  nearly  done  dredge  with 
flour,  and  produce  a  fine  froth. 

571.  -FILLET  OF  VEAL,  BOILED. 

Bind  it  round  with  tape,  put  it  in  a 
floured  cloth  and  in  cold  water,  boil  very 
gently  two  hours  and  a  half,  or  if  sim- 
mered, which  is  perhaps  the  better  way, 
four  hours  will  be  taken ;  it  may  be  sent 
to  table  in  bechamel  or  with  oyster 
Bauce. 

Care  should  be  taken  to  keep  it  as 
white  as  possible. 

572.— FILLET  OF  VEAL  BOASTED. 

Take  out  the  bone,  fill  the  space  with 
a  fine  stuffing,  and  let  the  fat  be  skewer- 
ed quite  round  ;  stuff  it  also  well  under 
the  skin  with  bread,  sage,  chopped  onions 
and  parsley,  as  much  depends  on  the  quan- 
tity and  flavor  of  the  stuffing,  and  send 
the  large  side  uppermost.  Put  a  paper 
over  the  fat ;  and  take  care  to  allow  a 
sufficient  time  for  roasting  ;  put  it  a  good 
distance  from  the  fire,  as  the  meat  is 
very  solid,  and  must  be  so  thoroughly 
done  as  not  to  leave  the  least  appearance 
of  red  gravy ;  serve  it  with  melted  butter 
poured  over,  and  gravy  round.  Ham  or 
bacon  should  be  served  with  it,  and  fresh 
cucumbers  if  in  season. 
18 


Although  considered  very  indigestible, 
it  is  a  favorite  joint  and  generally  roast- 
ed, although  it  may  be  easily  divided 
into  three  parts  and  each  dressed  sepa- 
rately ;  that  piece  known  in  a  "  round  of 
beef"  as  the  "  silver  side,"  being  roasted, 
and  the  remaining  two  stewed  in  differ- 
ent ways. 

In  Paris,  a  longe  de  veau  is  cut  some- 
what in  the  shape  of  a  haunch  of  mutton, 
with  the  fillet  and  part  of  the  loin  joined 
together. 

678.— TO  EOA8T 

A  fillet  of  veal,  it  should*  be  stuffed 
with  the  following  ingredients:  thyme, 
marjoram,  parsley,  savory,  finely  minced 
lemon-peel,  mace,  pepper,  nutmeg,  with 
bread-crumbs ;  to  which  add  two  eggs, 
and  four  ounces  of  marrow-suet:  lay 
this  stuffing  in  the  udder,  and,  if  any 
remain,  in  such  holes  as  you  think  proper 
made  in  the  fleshy  part.  Serve  with, 
melted  butter,  ,and  garnish  with  the  lem- 
on-peel sliced. 

574.— FILLET  OF  VEAL  BOILED.    (English.) 

Choose  a  small  delicate  fillet  for  this 
purpose ;  prepare  as  for  roasting,  or  stuff 
it  with  an  oyster  forcemeat;  bind  it 
round  with  a  tape ;  after  having  washed 
it  thoroughly,  cover  it  with  milk  and 
water  in  equal  quantities,  and  let  it  boil 
very  gently  three  and  a  half  or  four 
hours,  keeping  it  carefully  skimmed. 
Send  it  to  table  with  a  rich  white  sauce, 
or,  if  stuffed  with  oysters,  a  tureen  of 
oyster  sauce ;  garnish  with  stewed  celery 
and  slices  of  bacon.  A  boiled  tongue 
should  be  served  with  it. 

575.— LOIN  OF  VEAL  BOASTED. 

Take  a  loin  of  veal ;  run  a  lark-spit 
along  the  chine-bones ;  then  tie  the  ends 
of  the  lark-spit  on  the  usual  spit,  draw- 
ing down  the  flap  over  the  kidney.  Cover 
it  well  with  buttered  paper,  and  tie  it  up 


278 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


carefully;  let  it  roast  gently  for  three 
hours.  When  about  to  serve,  remove 
the  paper,  sprinkle  well  with  salt,  dredge 
it  with  flour,  and  finish  basting  with  a 
small  piece  of  fresh  butter. 

This  joint  is  frequently  divided ;  the 
kidney  end  and  the  chump.  The  kidney 
end  sent  up  with  a  toast  under  the  fat ; 
the  chump  end  should  be  stuffed  like  the 
fillet,  or  sent  up  with  balls  of  stuffing  in 
the  dish;  pour  melted  butter  over  the 
joint,  and  gravy  round.  It  also  forms  an 
excellent  stew  if  served  up  in  winter 
with  rice,  and  in  summer  with  green 
peas. 

576.-BREAST  OF  VEAL. 

Cover  it  with  the  caul,  and  if  you  re- 
tain the  sweetbread,  skewer  it  to  the 
back,  but  take  off  the  caul  when  the 
meat  is  nearly  done ;  it  will  take  two 
and  a  half  to  three  hours  roasting. 

Or  : — Remove  the  tendons,  and  insert 
in  their  place  a  stuffing ;  then  roast  as 
before. 

Or : — Raise  the  skin,  and  force  in  as 
much  stuffing  as  possible ;  skewer  it  up ; 
this  will  give  a  very  good  flavor  to  the 
joint. 


A  Breast  of  Veal  Boasted. 
57T.— TO  STEW. 

Cut  a  breast,  or  a  portion,  in  pieces ; 
fry  them  with  a  little  butter,  an  onion 
and  a  cabbage-lettuce  shred  small ;  when 
browned,  add  a  little  flour,  shake  it  well 
together;  then  add  a  small  quantity  of 
broth  or  water ;  let  it  stew  gently ;  when 


nearly  done,  throw  in  green  peas  suffi- 
cient for  the  dish;  when  the  peas  are 
done,  add  a  little  pounded  sugar,  pepper, 
and  salt.  It  may  require  a  little  more 
thickening,  in  which  case  knead  a  little 
flour  and  butter  together. 

578.— LOIN  OF  VEAL  BOILED. 

Take  a  loin  about  eight  pounds,  skewer 
down  the  flap  without  disturbing  the 
kidney,  put  the  loin  into  a  kettle  with 
enough  cold  water  to  cover  it,  let  it  come 
gradually  to  a  boil  (it  cannot  boil  too 
slowly),  continue  for  two  hours  and  a 
quarter,  but  it  must  boil;  remove  the 
scum  as  it  rises,  send  it  to  table  in 
bechamel,  or  with  parsley  and  melted 
butter. 

579.— KNUCKLE  OF  VEAL. 

Get  a  knuckle  of  a  leg  of  veal,  saw  it 
in  three  parts,  but  not  to  separate  it, 
scald  it,  and  put  it  for  a  few  minutes  in 
cold  water,  then  place  it  in  a  stewpan 
with  some  good  second  stock,  an  onion 
or  two,  a  faggot  of  herbs,  a  few  sprigs  of 
parsley,  a  carrot,  a  turnip,  and  a  head  of 
celery,  a  blade  of  mace,  a  slice  of  raw 
ham,  fat  and  lean;  stew  it  for  several 
hours,  until  the  gristle  is  soft,  take  out 
the  veal,  cover  it  over  to  keep  it  white ; 
strain  the  liquor,  wash  a  pound  of  rice 
and  boil  it  in  this  liquor,  add  half  a  pint 
of  cream  or  milk,  when  the  rice  is  done 
put  your  veal  again  into  it,  to  make  hot ; 
dish  your  veal  carefully,  and  season  the 
rice  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  pour  over 
the  veal ;  if  with  parsley  and  butter  in- 
stead of  water,  use  the  stock  from  it,  and 
chop  fine  some  boiled  parsley  and  mix 
into  it. 

580.— KNUCKLE  OF  VEAL,  BOILED. 

Put  sufficient  water  over  it  to  cover  it. 
let  it  boil  gently,  and  when  it  reaches  a 
boil  as  much  salt  as  would  fill  a  dessert- 
spoon may  be  thrown  in,  keep  it  well 
skimmed,  and  boil  until  tender,  serve 


VEAL. 


279 


with  parsley  and  butter,  and  a  salted 
cheek. 

Allow  twenty  minutes  to  each  pound. 

Three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  rice  may 
be  boiled  with  it,  or  green  peas,  or  cu- 
cumbers ;  turnips  and  small  spring  onions 
may  be  put  in,  allowing  them  so  much 
time  from  the  cooking  of  the  veal  as  they 
will  require. 

581.— KNUCKLE  OF  VEAL  STEWED. 
Place  your  knuckle  of  veal  in  a  stew- 
pan,  if  the  knuckle  is  a  very  large  one  it 
may  be  divided  into  two  or  three  pieces 
for  the  sake  of  convenience,  put  in  the 
pan  with  it  a  few  blades  of  mace,  a  little 
thyme,  an  onion,  some  whole  pepper,  a 
burnt  crust  of  bread,  and  cover  with  from 
three  to  four  pints  of  water,  cover  down 
close,  and  boil ;  when  it  has  boiled  place 
it  by  the  side  of  the  fire  and  let  it  sim- 
mer for  at  least  two  hours,  take  it  up, 
keep  it  hot  while  you  strain  its  liquor, 
then  pour  the  gravy  over  it,  and  send  it 
to  table  with  a  lemon  garnish. 

582.-NECK  OP  VEAL  WITH  PEAS. 

Add  to  the  meat,  half  an  hour  previous 
to  its  being  done,  one  quart  of  peas, 
twelve  button  onions,  and  a  little  more 
sugar ;  remove  the  fat,  and  serve  as  be- 
fore. 

583.-NECK  OF  VEAL  WITH  NEW  POTA- 
TOES. 

As  before,  using  new  potatoes  in  place 
of  the  peas.  Any  other  vegetable,  as 
French  beans,  broad  beans,  &c.,  mav  be 
served  with  it  in  the  same  way. 


Neck  of  veal 
584— NECK  OF  VEAL 

May  be  boiled  or  roasted — the  latter 


only  if  it  be  the  best  end,  and  sent  to  table 
garnished  as  in  the  above  engraving — it 
may  be  broiled  in  chops,  but  is  best  in  a 
pie ;  it  may  be,  however,  larded  and  stew- 
ed as  follows : — 

585.— NECK  OF  VEAL  STEWED. 

Lard  it  with  square  pieces  of  ham  or 
bacon  which  have  been  previously  rubbed 
in  a  preparation  of  shalots,  spices,  pep- 
per, and  salt;  place  it  in  the  stewpan 
with  about  three  pints  of  white  stock, 
add  a  bay  or  laurel  leaf,  and  a  couple  of 
onions ;  add  a  dessert-spoonful  of  brandy 
or  whiskey,  the  latter  if  brandy  is  not  at 
hand,  stew  till  tender,  dish  the  meat, 
strain  the  gravy,  pour  over  the  joint,  and 
serve. 

586.— BBEAST  OF  VEAL  FORCED. 

After  taking  out  the  tendons  and  all 
the  rib  bones,  trim  the  veal,  spread  it  all 
over  with  forcemeat,  sprinkle  over,  if 
you  have  got  it,  a  little  chopped  truffle  or 
mushrooms,  sprinkle  a  little  pepper  and 
salt  over  it,  then  roll  it  tightly  up  and 
tie  it,  then  put  it  into  a  cloth  and  stew 
it  for  several  hours,  take  it  up,  and  take 
off  the  cloth  and  strings ;  dry  it  and  glaze 
it,  have  some  good  sauce. 

58T.— SHOULDER  OF  VEAL 

Remove  the  knuckle  and  roast  what 
remains,  as  the  fillet ;  it  may  or  may  not 
be  stuffed  at  pleasure;  if  not  stuffed, 
serve  with  oyster  or  mushroom  sauce  j 
if  stuffed,  with  melted  butter. 

588.— NECK  OF  VEAL  BRAISED. 

This  is  done  much  in  the  same  manner 
as  the  neck  of  veal  stewed ;  it  is  larded 
with  bacon  rolled  in  chopped  parsley, 
pepper,  salt,  and  nutmeg,  placed  with  the 
scrag  in  a  tosser,  in  which  place  lean 
bacon,  celery,  carrots,  one  onion,  a  glass 
of  sherry  or  Madeira,  with  sufficient 
water  to  cover  it  all,  stew  over  a  quick 
fire  until  it  is  sufficiently  tender,  remove 
the  veal  and  strain  the  gravy,  place  the 


280 


THE   PEACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


veal  in  a  stewpan  in  which  some  butter 
and  flour  has  been  browned,  let  the 
bones  be  uppermost,  when  the  veal  is 
nicely  colored  it  is  enough  ;  boil  as  much 
of  the  liquor  as  may  be  required,  skim 
it  clean,  squeeze  a  lemon  into  it,  pour  it 
over  the  meat,  and  serve. 

689.— VEAL  CUTLETS. 
The  cutlets  should  be  cut  as  hand- 
somely as  possible,  and  about  three 
quarters  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  they 
should  ^before  cooking  be  well  beaten 
with  the  blade  of  a  chopper,  if  a  proper 
beater  be  not  at  hand,  they  should  then 
be  fried  a  light  brown  and  sent  up  to 
table,  garnished  with  parsley  and  rolls 
of  thin  sliced,  nicely  fried  bacon ;  they 
are  with  advantage  coated  previously  to 
cooking  with  the  yolk  of  an  egg,  and 
dredged  with  bread-crumbs. 

590.— VEAL  CUTLETS. 
A  very  nice  way  to  cook  cutlets  is  to 
make  a  batter  with  half  a  pint  of  milk, 
an  egg  beaten  to  a  froth,  and  flour  enough 
to  render  it  thick.  When  the  veal  is 
fried  brown,  dip  it  into  the  batter,  then 
put  it  back  into  the  fat,  and  fry  it  until 
brown  again.  If  you  have  any  batter 
left,  it  is  nice  dropped  by  the  large  spoon- 
ful into  the  fat,  and  fried  till  brown,  then 
laid  over  the  veal.  Thicken  the  gravy 
and  turn  it  over  the  whole. 

591.— ANOTHER  WAT. 

Procure  your  cutlets  cut  as  above,  coat 
them  with  the  yolk  of  eggs  well  beaten, 
strew  over  them  bread-crumbs  powdered, 
sweet  herbs,  and  grated  lemon-peel  and 
nutmeg,  put  some  fresh  butter  in  the  pan, 
and  when  boiling  put  in  your  cutlets; 
now  make  some  good  gravy ;  when  the 
cutlets  are  cooked  take  them  out  and 
keep  them  before  the  fire  to  keep  hot, 
dredge  into  the  pan  a  little  flour,  put  in  a 
piece  of  butter,  pour  a  little  white  stock, 
squeeze  in  juice  of  lemon  to  taste,  sea- 


son with  pepper  and  salt,  add  mushroom- 
ketchup,  boil  quickly  until  a  light  brown, 
pour  it  over  the  cutlets,  and  serve,  the 
cutlets  being  laid  in  a  circle  round  the 
dish,  and  the  gravy  in  the  centre. 

592.— VEAL  CUTLETS  CUEKIED. 

The  cutlets  may  be  prepared  as  for 
collops  by  cutting  them  into  shape,  dip- 
ping them  into  the  yolk  of  eggs,  and 
seasoning  them  with  fine  bread-crumbs 
about  four  table-spoonfuls,  two  spoonfuls 
of  curry-powder,  and  one  of  salt;  fry 
them  in  fresh  butter ;  serve  with  curry 
sauce,  which  may  be  made  with  equal 
parts  of  curry-powder,  flour,  and  butter, 
worked  well  together  into  a  paste ;  put 
it  into  the  pan  from  which  the  cutlets 
have  been  removed,  moisten  with  a  cup- 
ful of  water  in  which  cayenne  and  salt 
have  been  stirred;  let  it  thicken  and 
serve  very  hot. 

593.— VEAL  CUTLETS— CEUMBED  OB 
PLAIN. 

If  you  have  not  got  the  leg  of  veal  or 
the  cutlet  piece,  get  a  thick  slice  of  veal 
and  cut  fourteen  good  sized  cutlets,  not 
too  thin,  flatten  each,  and  trim  them 
a  good  shape,  wet  your  beater  in  cold 
water  to  keep  the  veal  from  sticking, 
if  for  plain  cutlets  flour  them  well 
and  dry  them,  then  again  have  ready 
your  saute-pan  or  fryingpan  quite  hot, 
with  a  good  bit  of  lard  or  butter, 
then  put  in  your  cutlets,  and  fry  a  nice 
light  brown ;  pepper  and  salt  them ;  if 
to  be  bread-crumbed,  trim  them  as  be- 
fore ;  have  ready  a  little  clarified  butter, 
some  chopped  parsley,  and  shalot,  pepper, 
and  salt,  all  mixed  together  with  a  yolk 
or  two  of  eggs  well  mixed;  have  ready 
some  bread-crumbs,  put  a  spoonful  of 
flour  amongst  them  well  mixed ;  dip  each 
cutlet  into  this  omelet,  and  thin  bread- 
crumb them,  patting  each  cutlet  with 
your  knife  to  keep  it  in  the  proper  shape, 
making  the  bread-crumbs  stick  to  the- 


YEAL. 


281 


cutlet ;  melt  some  lard  in  your  saute-pan, 
and  place  your  cutlets  in  it  ready  to  fry 
a  nice  brown. 

594.— VEAL  CUTLETS— 1  LA  MAINTENON. 

Half  fry  your  cutlets,  dip  them  in  a 
seasoning  of  bread-crumbs,  parsley,  sha- 
lots,  pepper  and  salt,  and  the  yolk  of  an 
egg  ;  enclose  them  in  clean  writing  paper, 
and  broil  them. 

595.— COLLOPS  OF  VEAL. 

The  piece  of  veal  as  before  named,  or 
if  you  have  it,  a  leg  of  veal ;  if  not,  get  a 
cutlet  and  cut  it  into  thin  pieces,  and 
beat  very  thin,  saut  them  off,  and  when 
all  done  trim  them  round  the  size  of  a 
crown  piece ;  pepper  and  salt  them,  place 
in  a  stewpan  with  some  brown  sauce  if 
for  brown,  and  if  for  white  bechamel 
sauce ;  add  some  forcemeat  balls,  some 
stewed  mushrooms,  and  some  whole 
dressed  truffles ;  season  with  pepper,  salt, 
sugar,  and  lemon ;  dish  the  collops  round 
as  you  would  cutlets3  putting  the  mush- 
rooms, and  balls,  and  truffles  in  the  mid- 
dle. 

596.^-TENDONS  OF  VEAL. 

This  is  from  a  breast  of  veal.  Turn 
up  the  breast  and  with  a  sharp  knife  cut 
off  the  chine-bone  all  along^  taking  care 
you  do  not  take  any  of  the  gristle  with 
the  bone ;  when  you  have  cut  off  this 
bone,  place  your  knife  under  the  gristle 
and  follow  it  all  along  until  you  have 
raised  it  up ;  then  cut  off  the  tendons  by 
keeping  close  to  the  rib  bones;  when 
you  have  got  it  out  cut  twelve  or  four- 
teen tendons  endwise,  keeping  your  knife 
slanting,  as  each  may  be  the  size  of  a 
small  pattie  round,  but  not  too  thin; 
then  put  them  on  in  cold  water  to  scald, 
then  put  them  in  cold  again ;  prepare  a 
stewpan  lined  with  fat  bacon  or  ham, 
trim  each  tendon  round,  throw  the  tur- 
aip  in  your  braise,  cover  them  with 


second  stock,  and  some  of  the  skim- 
mings ;  let  them  stew  gently  for  six  or 
seven  hours  ;  be  careful  in  taking  them 
up,  and  place  them  separately  upon  a 
drying  sieve ;  glaze  them  two  or  three 
times;  dish  them  on  a  border;  they 
should  be  so  tender  that  you  might  suck 
them  through  a  quill. 


597.— GALANTINE  VEAL. 

Take  a  large  breast  of  veal ;  take  off 
the  chine-bone,  then  take  out  the  gristle 
called  tendons,  then  take  out  all  the  rib 
bones ;  flatten  it  well,  have  ready  some 
good  forcemeat  or  sausage  meat ;  spread 
it  all  over  with  your  forcemeat,  then 
make  a  line  of  green  gherkins,  then  a 
line  of  red  capsicums,  then  a  line  of  fat 
ham  or  bacon,  then  some  hard  boiled 
yolks  of  eggs,  then  a  line  of  truffles  ;  if 
you  have  any  boiled  calves'  feet  left  from 
jelly  stock,  sprinkle  it  in  with  pieces  of 
breast  of  fowl ;  sprinkle  pepper  and  salt 
all  over  it,  then  roll  it  up  tightly,  and 
likewise  do  so  in  a  cloth ;  tie  it  up  lightly ; 
stew  it  for  two  hours  or  more  ;  take  it 
up  and  press  it  flat ;  let  it  lie  until  quite 
cold ;  take  off  the  cloth.  It  will  make 
excellent  cold  dishes. 


598 —OLIVES  OF  VEAL-E6TL 

Cut  some  cutlets  a  moderate  thickness 
from  the  chump  end  of  the  loin  of  veal, 
beat  them  and  trim  them,  eight  or  a 
dozen,  according  to  dish ;  get  some  slices 
of  ham  or  bacon,  cover  the  veal  with 
forcemeat  and  with  the  fat,  sprinkle  be- 
tween a  little  chopped  mushrooms,  pep- 
per and  salt,  roll  each  up,  and  tie  and 
skewer  each,  then  egg  and  bread-crumb 
them,  bake  them  hi  the  oven  with  but- 
tered paper  over  them,  cut  the  string 
when  done,  and  before  you  send  them  to 
table,  draw  the  skewer,  put  asparagus 
sauce,  tomato,  or  mushroom  in  the  dish. 


282 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


599.— POTTED  VEAL. 

This  may  be  potted  as  beef,  or  thus : — 
pound  cold  veal  in  a  mortar,  work  up 
with  it  in  powder  mace,  pepper,  and  salt, 
shred  the  leanest  part  of  tongue  very 
finely,  or  ham  is  sometimes  used  ;  place 
in  a  jar  or  pot  a  layer  of  the  pounded 
veal,  and  upon  that  a  layer  of  the  tongue, 
and  continue  alternately  until  the  pot  is 
full,  seeing  that  every  layer  is  well  press- 
ed down;  pour  over  the  top  melted 
clarified  butter.  If  it  is  desired,  and 
which  is  frequently  done,  to  marble  the 
veal,  cut  the  tongue  or  ham  in  square 
dice  instead  of  shredding  it,  but  care 
must  be  taken  that  they  do  not  touch 
each  other  or  the  effect  is  destroyed. 

600.— LOIN  OF  VEAL  BRAISED. 

This  joint  generally  weighs  from 
twelve  to  fourteen  pounds,  when  off  a 
good  calf.  Have  the  rib  bones  carefully 
divided  with  a  saw,  so  as  not  to  hurt  the 
fillet,  prepare  the  braising-pan,  and  pro- 
ceed with  the  addition  of  one  pint  of 
water,  but  take  care  not  to  cover  the 
meat,  which  might  happen  if  your  stew- 
pan  was  too  deep,  (this  would  be  boil- 
ing instead  of  braising;)  it  will  take 
about  three  hours :  be  careful  to  remove 
the  fat,  as  this  joint  produces  a  great 
deal.  Taste  the  sauce  before  serving, 
in  case  more  seasoning  is  required, 
which  might  be  the  case,  depending  on 
the  nature  of  the  veal.  A  good  cook 
should  taste  all  sauces  before  serving. 


601.-CALFS-HEAD  BAGOUT. 

Parboil  the  head,  and  cut  off  the  meat 
into  thin  broad  pieces,  return  the  bones 
to  the  water  in  which  it  was  boiled,  with 
a  beef-bone  or  a  piece  of  gravy  beef,  and 
ham  or  bacon  bones ;  add  herbs,  and, 
making  two  quarts  of  good  gravy,  strain 
it,  and  put  in  the  meat.  When  it  has 
stewed  three-quarters  of  an  hour,  add  an 


anchovy,  a  little  beaten  mace,  cayenne 
pepper,  two  spoonfuls  of  lemon  pickle, 
half  an  ounce  of  truffles  and  morels,  a 
slice  or  two  of  lemon,  and  a  glass  of 
wine :  thicken  the  gravy  with  butter  and 
flour,  adding  forcemeat  balls  fried,  paste 
fried,  and  brain-cakes  as  a  garnish. 

m  602.-BOILED  CALF'S  HEAD. 

Boil  the  head  gently  until  the  bone 
will  leave  the  meat  easily ;  take  some  fine 
forcemeat,  made  with  ham,  egg-balls,  and 
small  pieces  of  very  nice  pickled  pork 
previously  boiled ;  lay  them  evenly  over 
the  inside  of  one  half  of  the  head,  and 
roll  it  up ;  tie  it  lightly  in  a  cloth ;  put 
it  into  a  stewpan  to  braise :  cut  the  other 
portion  of  the  head  into  small  pieces ; 
thicken  and  flavor  the  stock  in  which  it 
was  boiled,  and  warm  it  up  in  it,  adding 
forcemeat  and  egg-balls,  brain  cekes,  and 
fried  paste.  Place  the  rolled  head  in  the 
centre  of  the  dish,  with  the  hash  round, 
and  the  brain  cakes,  fried  paste,  and 
slices  of  lemon  as  garnish.  Truffles  may 
be  aJded  with  advantage  to  any  dish  com- 
posed of  calf's  head. 


603.— HASHED  VEAL. 

If  to  J)e  hashed,  from  any  joint  not  over- 
done, cut  thin  slices,  remove  the  skin 
and  gristle,  put  some  sliced  onions  and  a 
shalot  over  the  fire  with  a  piece  of  but- 
ter and  some  flour ;  fry  and  shake  them. 
Put  in  some  veal  gravy  and  a  bunch  of 
sweet  herbs  ;  simmer  ten  minutes ;  strain 
off  the  gravy,  and  put  it  to  the  veal,  with 
some  parsley  chopped  small,  and  a  little 
grated  lemon  peel  and  nutmeg;  let  it 
simmer  one  minute. 

If  to  le  stewed,  then  add  the  yolk  of 
two  eggs,  beaten  up  with  two  spoonfuls 
of  cream  and  a  very  little  pepper,  and  stir 
over  the  fire  one  way  until  it  becomes 
thick  and  smooth ;  squeeze  a  little  lemon 
juice  in,  and  serve. 


VEAL. 


283 


604— SCOTCH  COLLOP8. 

If  lrown,  cut  the  collops  thin,  beat 
them  a  little,  fiy;«them  in  butter  for 
about  two  minutes,  after  having  seasoned 
them  with  a  little  beaten  mace;  place 
them  in  a  deep  dish  as  they  are  fried, 
and  cover  them  with  gravy.  Put  some 
butter  into  the  frying-pan,  and  allow  it 
just  to  change  color.  Then  strain  the 
collops  through  a  colander  from  the 
gravy,  and  fry  them  quickly ;  pour  the 
burnt  butter  from  the  pan,  and  put  in 
the  gravy,  adding  a  little  lemon-juice. 
The  gravy  may  be  made  of  the  trimmings 
of  the  veal ;  serve  it  up  with  forcemeat 
balls. 

If  white,  cut  the  collops  the  size  of  a 
crown  piece,  and  not  much  thicker  ;  but- 
ter the  bottom  of  the  stewpan  and  lay 
the  meat  piece  by  piece  upon  it,  having 
shaken  a  little  flour  upon  the  butter; 
add  two  blades  of  mace  and  a  little  nut- 
meg. Set  the  stewpan  on  the  fire,  and 
toss  it  together  until  the  meat  is  very 
white;  then  add  half  a  pint  of  strong 
veal  broth  and  one  quarter  of  a  pint  of 
cream ;  toss  the  whole,  and  when  sim- 
mered enough,  let  them  just  boil ;  add  a 
little  lemon  juice,  some  forcemeat  balls, 
and  either  oysters  or  mushrooms,  which 
must  both  be  very  white;  if  necessary, 
thicken  the  sauce  with  the  yolk  of  eggs, 
but  do  not  let  it  boil  afterwards. 

605.— TO  DBESS  COLLOPS  QUICKLY. 

Cut  them  as  thin  as  paper  with  a  very 
sharp  knife,  and  in  small  bits.  Throw 
the  skin,  and  any  odd  bits  of  the  veal, 
into  a  little  water,  with  a  dust  of  pepper 
and  salt ;  set  them  on  the  fire  while  you 
beat  the  collops ;  and  dip  them  into  a 
seasoning  of  herbs,  bread,  pepper,  salt, 
and  a  scrape  of  nutmeg,  but  first  wet 
them  in  egg.  Then  put  a  bit  of  butter 
into  a  frying-pan,  and  give  the  collops  a 
very  quick  fry ;  for  as  they  are  so  thin, 
two  minutes  will  do  them  on  both  sides : 


put  them  into  a  hot  dish  before  the  fire ; 
then  strain  and  thicken  the  gravy. 

Or: — Cut  the  collops  thin;  flatten 
them  with  a  beater ;  have  a  large  dish, 
dredge  it  with  flour,  and  sprinkle  a  little 
black  pepper  over  it ;  as  the  collops  are 
flattened,  lay  them  in  the  dish ;  put  a 
piece  of  butter  in  a  frying-pan,  and  when 
it  is  melted  and  hot,  lay  in  the  collops  j 
do  them  quickly ;  when  lightly  browned, 
dish  them  up,  and  serve  with  a  mushroom 


sauce. 


606.— CALF'S  HEAD  CUBBY 


Is  usually  made  with  the  remains  left 
from  a  previous  dinner;  if  about  two 
pounds  of  meat  remaining  upon  the  bone, 
cut  it  whilst  cold  into  thin  slices,  then 
cut  two  onions  and  two  apples  into  small 
dice,  which  put  into  a  stewpan  with  an 
ounce  of  butter  and  half  a  clove  of  garlic 
cut  in  slices,  stir  with  a  wooden  spoon 
over  the  fire  until  sauteed  nice  and 
brown,  when  add  a  table-spoonful  of 
curry  powder,  half  one  of  flour,  mix  well, 
then  pour  in  a  pint  of  broth,  add  a  little 
salt,  and  boil  twenty  minutes,  keeping  it 
well  stirred ;  then  put  in  the  calf  s  head, 
and  let  it  remain  upon  the  fire  until  quite 
hot  through;  add  the  juice  of  half  a 
lemon,  which  stir  in  very  gently  without 
breaking  the  meat,  dress  it  upon  a  dish, 
and  serve  with  rice  separately.  Curry 
sauce  may  be  passed  through  a  sieve  pre- 
viously to  putting  the  head  in. 

607.— VEAL  CUTLETS  EN  PAPILLOTE. 

Prepare,  half-fry.  —  and  put  them  in  a 
pie-dish  and  pour  the  sauce  over,  and  let 
them  remain  until  cold ;  then  cut  a  sheet 
of  foolscap  paper  hi  the  shape  of  a  heart 
and  oil  or  butter  it ;  lay  one  of  the  cutlets 
with  a  little  of  the  sauce  on  one  half  of 
the  paper,  turn  the  other  half  over,  then 
turn  and  plait  the  edges  of  the  paper 
over,  beginning  at  the  top  of  the  heart 
and  finishing  with  an  extra  twist  at  the 


284 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


bottom,  which  will  cause  the  sauce  to 
remain  in  it ;  broil  slowly  on  a  gridiron 
for  twenty  minutes  on  a  very  slow  fire, 
or  place  it  in  the  oven  for  that  time,  and 
serve. 

608.— CUTLETS  AND  EICE. 

Boil  a  cupful  of  rice  in  milk  until  quite 
soft,  then  pound  it  in  a  mortar  with  a 
little  salt  and  some  white  pepper ;  pound 
also  separately  equal  parts  of  cold  veal 
or  chicken :  mix  them  together  with  yolk 
of  egg,  form  them  into  cutlets,  brush 
over  with  yolk  of  egg,  and  fry-  them ; 
send  them  up  with  a  very  piquant  sauce, 
made  of  good  stock,  thickened  and  flavor- 
ed with  lemon  juice,  lemon  pickle,  or 
Harvey's  sauce.  The  cutlets  may  be  sent 
to  table  covered  with  the  small  pickled 
mushrooms. 

609.— CUTLETS  AND  CELEET. 

i 

The  cutlets  may  be  cut  from  the  best 
part  of  the  neck,  taking  care  in  removing 
the  meat  from  the  bones  to  cut  it  in  a 
good  shape ;  make  gravy  of  the  bones  ; 
stewing  them  with  three  or  four  heads 
of  celery  cut  and  iscalded,  a  little  salt, 
PePPer?  and  stewed  onion  j  strain  the 
gravy,  returning  the  celery  into  it ;  thick- 
en it  with  butter  and  flour,  and  pour  it 
boiling  hot  upon  the  cutlets.  Stew  them 
till  they  are  quite  tender,  and  garnish 
with  lemon  and  small  forcemeat  balls 
fried. 

610.— A  L'lTALIENNE. 

Chop  a  quantity  of  sweet  herbs,  pars- 
ley being  predominant;  melt  a  little 
butter  on  the  fire  and  then  warm  the 
herbs  in  it ;  cut  the  cutlets  into  handsome 
shapes,  brush  them  with  the  yolk  of  an 
egg,  then  lay  on  the  butter  and  herbs 
with  a  knife,  and  cover  them  well  with 
bread-crumbs ;  this  process  should  be  re- 
peated ;  fry  them  of  a  fine  brown ;  if 
glazed,  they  must  be  put  between  papers 


to  press  all  the  grease  out,  then  brush 
them  over  with  the  glaze,  and  send  them 
to  table.  Serve  with  Italian  sauce. 

611.— A  LA  HOLLANDAISE. 

Cut  some  large  cutlets  from  a  fillet  of 
veal,  beat  them  with  a  rolling-pin,  then 
dip  them  into  batter  made  very  rich  with 
egg.  Make  a  fine  forcemeat  with  pound- 
ed ham,  chopped  oysters,  &c.,  lay  it  upon 
the  cutlets,  roll  them  up>  dip  them  again 
in  egg-batter,  roll  them  in  bread-crumbs, 
and  tie  them  up ;  roast  them  upon  skew- 
ers or  in  a  Dutch  oven ;  chop  and  pound 
the  trimmings  of  the  veal,  add  them  to 
the  oysters  and  ham  forcemeat  with  two 
raw  eggs,  make  it  into  balls  and  fry 
them ;  have  some  stock  ready  and  stew 
it  with  an  anchovy,  a  shalot,  some  white 
pepper  and  salt ;  strain,  and  thicken  it  with 
butter,  add  the  juice  of -one-half  a  lemon 
and  a  glass  of  white  wine ;  give  it  one 
boil  and  pour  it  into  the  dish,  with  the 
rolled  cutlets  in  the  centre  and  the  balls 
round  them. 

612.-A  LA  HOLLANDAISE,  WITH  WHITE 
SAUCE. 

Out  thin  slices  of  undressed  veal,  hack 
them  with  the  back  of  a  knife  each  way, 
dip  them  in  eggs  and  bread-crumbs,  with 
a  little  chopped  parsley ;  fry  them  in  but- 
ter, lay  them  on  a  sieve  as  they  are  done, 
and  serve  them  withavhite  sauce  as  for 
fricassee. 

618.— FAKCIES  OP  VEAL. 

Chop  off  the  thick  bone  of  a  small  neck 
of  veal  to  the  end  of  the  fifth  rib ;  divide 
the  cutlets,  and  with  a  broad  knife  beat 
the  meat  of  each  flat,  and  cover  it  with 
forcemeat  of  lean  veal,  beef  suet,  parsley, 
a  small  bit  of  garlic,  a  little  salt,  mace, 
and  pepper.  Then  roll  the  meat  round 
the  bone,  the  end  of  which  leave  out  at 
one  extremity,  put  over  a  thin  slice  of  fat 
bacon,  and,  having  stuffed  in  the  remain- 


YEAL. 


285 


der  of  the  forcemeat  at  the  ends  of  the 
roll,  bind  up  with  twine.  At  the  bottom 
of  a  small  stewpan  lay  slices  of  turnip, 
onion,  three  inches  of  celery,  and  two 
large  carrots  cut  lengthways,  and  the 
steaks  over:  add  as  much  water,  or  beef 
broth,  as  shall  half  cover  them ;  set  the 
pan  on  a  moderate  stove,  and  some  wood 
embers  on  the  lid;  simmer  slowly  for 
two  hours,  then  remove  the  twine,  and 
placing  the  bones  upwards,  leaning  on 
each  other,  strain  the  gravy  over  them. 

Or : — Take  cutlets  from  the  chump 
end  of  a  loin  of  veal ;  beat  them  well ; 
cover  them  with  slices  of  bacon,  then 
with  a  fine  forcemeat ;  roll  them  round : 
tie  them  into  shape ;  then  dip  them  in  the 
yolks  of  eggs  and  the  raspings  of  bread ; 
roast  them,  basting  well  with  butter ; 
then  put  them  into  a  sauce  thickened 
with  mushrooms;  squeeze  lemon  juice 
over  them ;  let  them  stew  till  very  tender, 
and  serve  them  up. 

614.— KOLLED  VEAL. 

The  breast  is  the  best  for  this  purpose. 
Bone  a  piece  of  the  breast,  and  lay  a 
forcemeat  over  it  of  herbs,  bread,  an  an- 
chovy, a  spoonful  or  two  of  scraped  ham, 
a  very  little  mace,  white  pepper,  and 
chopped  chives;  then  roll,  bind  it  up 
tight,  and  stew  it  in  water  or  weak 
broth  with  the  bones,  some  carrots, 
onions,  turnips,  and  a  bay-leaf.  Let 
the  color  be  preserved,  and  serve  it  in 
veal  gravy,  or  fricassee  sauce,  with  mush- 
rooms and  artichoke  bottoms. 

Or: — Put  the  breast  into  a  stewpan 
with  just  water  enough  .to  cover  it,  an 
onion,  a  stick  of  celery,  and  a  bundle  of 
sweet  herbs ;  let  it  stew  very  gently, 
adding  more  water  as  it  stews,  until  it  is 
tender ;  then  take  out  the  bones,  and  re- 
move the  skin ;  return  the  bones  into 
the  liquor,  which  will  be  a  fine  jelly,  and 
serve  as  the  sauce  for  several  dishes. 
Cover  the  veal  with  a  fine  forcemeat, 


season  it  well,  add  egg-balls,  and  roll  it 
up,  securing  it  with  tape.  Put  it  into  a 
stewpan  with  the  fat  procured  from  pork 
chops,  a  slice  or  two  of  fat  bacon  or  a 
lump  of  butter,  and  a  teacupful  of  the 
liquor  it  was  stewed  in ;  shake  the  stew- 
pan about  until  the  fat  has  melted,  and 
turn  the  veal  in  it,  that  it  may  be  all 
equally  done,  adding  an  onion  and  an- 
other bunch  of  herbs ;  let  it  braise  one 
and  a  half  or  two  hours,  then  strain  the 
gravy,  and  thicken  it ;  garnish  with 
forcemeat-balls,  egg-balls,  and  fried  paste 
cut  in  shapes.  Peeled  mushrooms  may 
be  given  by  way  of  variety.  When 
well  done,  this  is  an  excellent  dish. 

615.— CALF'S  LIVER.— (English  way.) 

Cut  the  liver  into  thin  slices,  dip  them 
in  flour,  and  put  it  in  a  saute  or  frying- 
pan  in  which  some  slices  ot  bacon  have 
been  previously  cooked,  with  sufficient 
fat  left  in  it ;  saute  the  liver  until  quite 
brown  and  rather  crisp,  when  take  out 
and  place  it  upon  a  dish  with  the  bacon, 
then  dredge  a  spoonful  of  flour  in  the 
pan,  or  enough  to  absorb  all  the  fat  in  it, 
then  add  a  little  broth  or  water  so  as  to 
make  it  a  thinnish  sauce,  season  it,  and 
add  two  spoonfuls  of  Harvey's  'sauce  or 
mushroom  ketchup.  If  the  above  is  nice- 
ly done,  and  the  pieces  cut  the  size  of 
cutlets,  it  will  make  a  nice  entree  for  an 
ordinary  dinner.  It  should  be  served 
immediately,  and  very  hot. 

616. -STEWED  CALF'S  LIVER.— (Soyer's.) 

Choose  a  nice  fat  one,  rather  white  in 
color,  lard  it  through  with  bacon,  put 
one-quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  in  a 
pan ;  when  melted,  add  a  table-spoonful 
of  flour,  keep  stirring  until  a  nice  yellow 
color,  then  put  in  the  whole  of  the  liver ; 
turn  round  now  and  then  until  it  is  a 
little  firm,  then  add  a  pint  of  broth  or 
water,  and  a  glass  of  any  kind  of  wine, 
a  bouquet  of  parsley,  thyme,  bay-leaves. 


286 


THE  PEACTICAL  HOUSEKEEPER. 


a  little  salt,  pepper,  and  sugar,  thirty 
button  onions ;  simmer  one  hour ;  take 
the  fat  off  and  the  bouquet  out,  dish  the 
liver  with  the  onions  around  it,  reduce 
the  sauce,  so  that  it  adheres  lightly  to 
the  back  of  the  spoon,  sauce  over  and 
serve.  Any  vegetables  may  be  used,  as 
carrots,  turnips,  peas,  haricots  ;  and  if  a 
little  gelatine  or  isinglass  is  added  to  the 
sauce,  and  the  liver  with  the  sauce  only 
put  into  a  round  basin  and  pressed  down 
and  left  until  cold,  it  will  make  a  nice 
dish  for  supper,  lunch  or  breakfast.  If 
required  to  be  rewanned,  cut  into  slices, 
put  it  in  the  pan  with  a  drop  of  water 
added  to  the  gravy. 

617.— CALF'S  LIVER  FEIED. 

Cut  in  slices,  and  fry  it  in  good  beef- 
dripping  or  butter  ;  let  the  pan  be  half 
full,  and  put  the  liver  in  when  it  boils, 
which  is  when  it  has  done  hissing; 
have  some  rashers  of  toasted  bacon,  and 
lay  round  it,  with  some  parsley  crisped 
before  the  fire ;  always  lay  the  bacon 
in  boiling  water  before  it  is  either  broil- 
ed, fried,  or  toasted,  as  it  takes  out  the 
salt,  and  makes  it  tender.  Sauce — plain 
melted  butter,  a  little  poured  over  the 
liver,  the  rest  in  the  sauce-boat. 

618.— CALF'S  HEAD  CHEESE. 

Boil  the  head  until  the  bones  will  come 
out,  then  put  the  head,  tongue,  and 
brains,  into  a  mould  with  spices  and 
parsley  chopped  fine  until  the  mould  is 
quite  full ;  put  a  plate  and  a  weight  over 
it,  and  when  cold  turn  out.  Serve  with 
parsley,  and  slices  of  rolled  ham,  placed 
round  the  dish. 

619.— FRICANDEATJ  OF  VEAL. 

In  France  the  fricandeau  is  not  unfre- 
quently  larded  in  the  interior  as  well  as 
the  outside,  by  having  pieces  of  the  size 
of  a  little  finger  cut  off  the  meat  with 
an  instrument  something  like  a  cheese- 


taster,  and  then  refilled  with  pledgets  of 
bacon,  or  "  lardons.  "  The  meat  is  alsc 
very  generally  served  upon  spinach, 
dressed  with  cream  or  sorrel. 

The  meat,  being  cut  into  a  handsome 
shape,  should  be  larded,  and  put  into  a 
stewpan  of  small  size,  with  just  suffi- 
cient water,  or  veal  broth,  to  cover  it, 
and  there  allowed  to  simmer  gently  over 
a  slow  fire  for  about  three  hours:  or 
until  it  has  become  so  tender  as  to  be  cut 
with  a  fish-slice.  The  gravy  is  then  sea- 
soned at  pleasure,  but  most  generally 
made  into  white  sauce. 

Or  :—Cut  a  nice  piece  from  the  fillet, 
lard  it  all  over  as  thickly  as  possible ; 
put  it  into  a  stewpan  with  a  few  slices  of 
fat  bacon,  some  trimmings  of  veal,  a  car- 
rot, turnip,  and  a  head  of  celery,  a  few 
allspice,  two  blades  of  mace,  and  four 
bay-leaves ;  let  it  stew  very  gently,  until 
thoroughly  done,  boil  the  gravy  down  to 
a  glaze,  cover  the  veal  with  it,  and 
serve  it  upon  a  puree  of  sorrel.  Grena- 
dines of  veal  are  cooked  in  the  same 
way,  only  made'  of  smaller  pieces,  four 
for  a  dish. 

620.— FRICANDELS. 

Take  three  pounds  of  the  best  end  of 
a  loin  of  veal,  chop  the  fat  and  lean  to- 
gether very  fine;  then  soak  a  French 
roll  in  some  milk ;  beat  three  eggs ;  add 
pepper,  salt,  nutmeg,  and  mace.  Make 
the  mixture  up  about  the  size,  and  some- 
what in  the  shape,  of  a  chicken ;  rub  it 
over  with  egg  and  bread-crumbs,  fry 
until  it  is  brown,  pour  off  the  fat,  boil 
water  in  the  pan,  and  stew  the  fricandels 
in  this  gravy;  two  will  make  a  hand- 
some dish.  Thicken  the  gravy  before  it 
is  sent  to  table. 

621.— MIROTON  OF  VEAL. 

Chop  very  fine  some  cold  dressed  veal 
and  ham  or  bacon ;  mix  it  with  a  slice 
of  crumb  of  bread  soaked  in  milk,  two 


VEAL. 


287 


onions  chopped  and  browned,  a  little  salt, 
pepper,  and  a  little  cream.  Put  all  these 
ingredients  into  a  stewpan  until  they  are 
hot,  and  are  well  mixed  together ;  then 
add  one  or  two  eggs  according  to  the 
quantity,  butter  a  mould,  put  in  the 
whole,  and  bake  it  in  an  oven  until  it  is 
brown ;  turn  out  of  the  mould,  and  serve 
with  fresh  gravy. 

622.— A  GALANTINE. 

Take  out  the  long  bones  from  a  breast 
of  veal,  and  beat  the  veal  for  four  min- 
utes with  the  flat  part  of  a  hand-chopper, 
in  order  that  it  may  roll  easily.  Spread 
it  on  the  table,  and  brush  it  over  thickly 
with  the  yolk  of  an  egg,  and  then  sprin- 
kle it  with  chopped  herbs ;  season  with 
pepper,  salt,  and  pounded  mace ;  make 
two  omelettes,  one  of  the  yolk  and  one 
of  the  white  of  egg ;  cut  them  in  strips ; 
lay  them  upon  the  veal,  with  layers  of 
pounded  ham  or  farce  Tjetween ;  cut  some 
pickled  cucumbers  or  mushrooms  into 
small  pieces,  with  some  sweet  herbs  well 
seasoned ;  strew  them  over  the  surface, 
then  roll  up  the  veal  very  tightly,  tie  it 
in  a  cloth,  and  let  it  stew  gently  for  six 
hours ;  then  put  a  heavy  weight  upon  it, 
and  let  it  stand  two  days  before  it  is  cut. 
Serve  it  in  slices,  with  savory  jelly  ;  any 
kind  of  boned  game  or  fowl  may  be  add- 
ed. It  requires  to  be  highly  seasoned. 

623.— VEAL  OLIVES. 

Cut  long  thin  slices ;  beat  them,  lay 
them  on  thin  slices  of  fat  bacon,  and  over 
these  a  layer  of  force  meat  seasoned  high 
with  some  shred  shalot  and  cayenne. 
Roll  them  tight,  about  the  size  of  two 
fingers,  but  not  more  than  two  or  three 
inches  long ;  fasten  them  round  with  a 
small  skewer,  rub  egg  over  them,  and  fry 
of  a  light  brown.  Serve  with  brown 
gravy,  in  which  boil  some  mushrooms, 
pickled  or  fresh.  Garnish  with  balls 
fried. 


624.— HAEICOT  OF  VEAL. 

Take  the  best  end  of  a  small  neck; 
cut  the  bones  short,  but  leave  it  whole ; 
then  put  it  into  a  stewpan  just  covered 
with  brown  gravy ;  and  when  it  is  nearly 
done,  have  ready  a  pint  of  boiled  peas, 
four  cucumbers  pared  and  sliced,  two 
cabbage-lettuces  cut  into  quarters,  and 
half  a  pint  of  carrots  and  turnips  cut  in 
shapes,  all  stewed  in  a  little  good  broth ; 
put  them  to  the  veal,  and  let  them  sim- 
mer ten  minutes.  When  the  veal  is  in 
the  dish,  pour  the  sauce  and  vegetables 
over  it,  and  lay  the  lettuce  with  force- 
meat-balls round  it. 

625.— VEAL  CUBBY. 

Cut  up  about  two  pounds  of  lean  veal 
into  small  square  pieces,  half  the  size  of 
walnuts ;  then  put  a  large  onion  cut  into 
small  dice,  in  a  stewpan,  with  a  clove  or 
garlic  and  one  apple  cut  into  slices,  and 
one  ounce  of  butter ;  keep  them  s'tirred 
over  a  moderate  fire,  until  lightly  brown- 
ed, when  stir  in  a  good  table-spoonful  of 
mild  curry  powder,  half  a  one  of  flour, 
mix  well,  then  add  a  pint  of  water,  let  it 
just  boil  up,  put  in  the  veal,  which  stir 
round  two  or  three  times,  to  mix  with 
the  curry,  and  put  the  stewpan  over  a 
slow  fire,  or  in  a  warm  oven  for  an  hour 
and  a-half ;  when  done  (which  you  may 
ascertain  by  pressing  a  piece  between  the 
finger  and  thumb,  if  done  it  would  be 
quite  tender  and  separate,)  add  the  juice 
of  a  lemon  and  a  little  salt,  stir  the  whole 
round  three  or  fou"r  times  very  gently, 
to  mix,  and  turn  it  out  upon  your  dish  j 
serve  with  rice  separately. 

Should  you  require  a  veal  curry  made 
in  less  time,  the  better  plan  would  be  to 
saut6  the  veal  in  butter  previously,  then 
putting  it  with  its  own  gravy  to  the  cur- 
ry, and  boiling  the  whole  gently  a  quar- 
ter of  an  hour. 

To  make  a  veal  curry  with  curry  paste, 
saute  the  veal  hi  butter ;  when  becoming 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


slightly  browned,  add  a  good  table-spoon- 
ful of  the  paste,  with  half  a  pint  of  wa- 
ter ;  leave  it  to  stew  about  half  an  hour, 
when  it  will  be  ready  to  serve. 

Beef,  mutton,  lamb,  and  pork  curries 
are  made  precisely  the  same  as  directed 
for  veal  curries. 

626.— CALFS  HEART  BAKED. 

Clean  and  stuff  as  for  roasted  beef  heart* 
then  bake  instead  of  roasting,  and  after- 
wards serve  with  rich  gravy  or  liver 
sauce. 

62T.-CALVES'  FEET. 

Stewed. — When  properly  cleaned,  rub 
the  feet  over  with  pepper,  a  very  little 
salt,  a  little  ground  ginger,  and  mace; 
cut  the  feet  into  moderately  sized  pieces, 
and  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  a  lit- 
tle shalot,  and  a  beefsteak  also  cut  into 
pieces.  Cover  all  with  cold  water,  and 
let  ttfem  simmer  together  for  three  hours. 
When  quite  tender,  take  them  off  the  fire ; 
strain  the  gravy  through  a  sieve.  The 
next  day  when  cold,  take  off  all  the  fat ; 
boil  a  small  quantity  of  saffron  in  cream, 
and  a  little  cayenne  pepper ;  mix  it  with 
the  gravy,  and  warm  the  whole  without 
boiling ;  one  foot  and  one  pound  of  steak 
will  make  a  dish. 

Fricasseed. — Boil  the  feet  in  water  un- 
til the  bones  will  come  out,  with  an  onion 
and  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs;  take  the 
bones  out,  and  when  the  meat  is  cold  stuff 
it  nicely  with  a  very  fine  farce,  or  force- 
meat ;  make  the  pieced  up  into  handsome 
shapes  of  an  equal  size ;  then  take  some 
of  the  stock  in  which  the  feet  were  boil- 
ed, removing  the  fat,  and  straining  it 
when  melted ;  make  this  into  thick  white 
sauce  with  cream  and  roux;  warm  up 
the  calves'  feet  in  it,  and  send  it  to  table 
either  plain  or  with  a  quantity  of  aspara- 
gus tops,  previously  boiled,  and  cut  into 
small  pieces. 

Or  /—Boil  tender  two  feet  in  a  shallow 


pan.  observing  not  to  break  them ;  throw 
them  into  cold  water  for  an  hour ;  divide 
and  lay  them  in  a  little  weak  veal  broth, 
and  simmer  them  half  an  hour,  with  a 
blade  of  mace  and  a  bit  of  lemon  peel, 
which  take  out  when  you  add  half  a  tea- 
cupful  of  cream,  and  a  bit  of  flour  and 
butter. 

Fried. — Take  calves'  feet  which  have 
been  boiled  until  very  tender ;  remove 
the  bones ;  let  them-  get  cold  ;  cut  them 
into  well-shaped  pieces ;  seasen  them 
with  white  pepper  and  salt;  dip  them 
into  butter,  fry  them,  and  serve  them  up 
with  a  sharp  sauce  or  garnish  of  pickles. 

Calves'  feet  may  also  be  plainly  boiled, 
and  served  with  parsley  and  butter,  or 
eaten  cold  with  oil  and  vinegar. 

628.— QUEUES  DE  VEAU. 

Having  nicely  cleaned  and  soaked  four 
calves'  tails,  cut  off  the  small  ends,  and 
blanch  them ;  dry,  flour,  and  fry  them  a 
fine  brown  in  butter ;  drain  the  fat  from 
them,  and  having  ready  a  pint  of  weak 
broth,  with  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  chi- 
bols,  two  bay-leaves,  half  a  pint  of  mush- 
rooms, pepper  and  salt,  boiled  up  and 
skimmed ;  wipe  the  sides  of  the  casserole, 
put  the  tails  in,  and  simmer  very  slowly 
until  they  are  quite  tender ;  keep  them 
hot  while  the  gravy  is  strained,  and  boil- 
ed to  a  glaze,  to  cover  them.  If  you 
have  no  mushrooms,  mix  a  little  of  the 
powder  into  gravy  just  before  serving ; 
have  ready  small  onions,  and  peel  to  one 
size  to  send  up  in  the  dish. 

629.— CALVES'  EARS  STUFFED. 

The  hair  being  scalded  off  the  ears, 
after  they  have  been  cut  quite  close  to 
the  head,  scald  and  clean  them  as  well  as 
possible ;  boil  them  quite  tender,  and 
blanch  them  in  cold  water.  Observe  that 
the  gristle  next  the  head  be  cut  so 
smooth  as  to  allow  the  ears  to  stand  up- 
right ;  they  may  be  boiled  in  white  gravy 


VEAL. 


289 


instead  of  water,  which  will  make  them 
richer.  When  become  cold,  fill  up  the 
cavity  with  a  fine  stuffing  of  calf's  liver, 
fat  bacon,  grated  ham,  bread  soaked  in 
cream  or  gravy,  herbs,  an  unbeaten  egg, 
a  little  salt,  and  a  small  piece  of  mace  ; 
rub  egg  over  the  ears  and  stuffing,  dip  in 
bread-crumbs,  and  fry  of  a  beautiful 
light  brown.  Serve  in  brown  or  white 
gravy,  or  tomato-sauce.  If  the  ear  be 
large,  one  will  be  sufficient  for  a  corner 
dish. 

Or: — When  prepared  as  above,  boil 
them  quite  tender  in  gravy,  and  serve 
them  in  chervil-sauce ;  or  else  boil  cher- 
vil to  a  mash,  put  to  it  melted  butter, 
pass  it  through  a  sieve,  and  add  to  it 
white  sauce,  or  use  the  latter  solely,  in 
which  case  put  a  little  mushroom-pow- 
der into  it ;  the  same  forcemeat  may  be 
used,  or  the  ears  may  be  served  without. 
They  likewise  eat  well,  cut  into  slices, 
served  in  white  or  brown  gravy.  In  the 
latter  case,  fry  them  before  stewing  in 
gravy. 


630.— CALVES'  BRAINS. 
Remove  all  the  large  fibres  and  skin ; 
soak  them  in  warm  water  for  four  hours ; 
blanch  them  for  ten  minutes  in  boiling 
water,  with  a  little  salt  and  vinegar  in  it ; 
then  soak  them  three  hours  in  lemon- 
juice  in  which  a  bit  of  chervil  has  been 
steeped ;  dry  them  well,  dip  them  in  bat- 
ter, and  fry  them.  Make  hot  a  ladleful 
of  glaze,  some  extremely  small  onions 
browned  in  butter,  artichoke  bottoms 
divided  in  half,  and  some  mushroom- 
buttons,  and  serve  round  the  brains  ;  or, 
after  preparing  as  above,  serve  in  a  rich 
white  acidulated  sauce,  with  lemon-juice 
or  tomato-sauce. 

Or: — Blanch  the  brains,  and  beat 
them  up  with  an  egg,  pepper,  and  salt,  a 
small  quantity  of  chopped  parsley,  and  a 
piece  of  butter.  Make  them  into  small 


cakes,  put  them  into  a  small  frying-pan, 
and  fry  them. 

Or: — Prepare  them  as  above;  wet 
with  egg,  and  sprinkle  crumbs,  salt,  pep- 
per, and  chopped  parsley,  and  finish 
dressing  in  a  Dutch  oven.  Serve  with 
melted  butter,  with  or  without  a  little 
mushroom-ketchup. 

681.— CROQUETTES  OF  BRAINS. 
Take  «calf  s  brains,  blanch,  and  beat 
them  up  with  one  or  two  chopped  sage- 
leaves,  a  little  pepper  and  salt,  a  few 
bread-crumbs  soaked  in  milk,  and  an  egg 
beaten;  roll  them  into  balls,  and  fry 
them. 

632.— CEKVELLES  DE  VEATJ  AF  MARI- 
NADE. 

Cut  a  carrot,  a  turnip,  and  an  onion 
into  pieces;  let  them  stew  in  a  little 
butter ;  then  add  a  bundle  of  sweet  herbs, 
and  pour  over  them  a  pint  of  vinegar 
and  water  in  equal  parts ;  then  strain  the 
liquor,  and  pour  it  over  calves'  brains 
cleaned  and  blanched ;  let  them  stew  in 
it  till  they  are  firm,  then  fry  them  in 
butter,  and  serve  up  with  crisped  parsley. 

633.— CERVELLES  DE  VEATJ  FRICASSEES. 

Having  cleaned  and  blanched  the 
brains,  render  them  white  and  firm  by 
squeezing  lemon-juice  over  them;  then 
put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  a  piece  of 
butter ;  stew  slowly,  that  they  may  not 
brown;  dredge  in  a  small  quantity  of 
flour ;  add  a  bunch  of  parsley,  and  one  of 
chives;  moisten  with  clear  veal  broth;  let 
the  brains  stew  until  they  are  firm ;  then 
send  them  up  in  the  sauce,  thickened 
with  a  little  cream  and  flour  and  butter. 

634.— FRIED  LIVER  AND  BACON,  ETC. 

Cut  the  liver  rather  thin,  say  about 
half  an  inch  thick,  but  first  soak  it  ia 
warm  water  about  one  hour;  chop  a 
quantity  of  parsley,  season  it  with  pep- 
per, and  lay  it  thick  upon  the  liver;  cut 


290 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


slices  of  bacon,  and  fry  both  together, 
but  put  the  bacon  first  into  the  pan;  add 
a  little  lemon-pickle  to  the  gravy  made 
by  pouring  the  fat  out  of  the  pan,  flour- 
ing, and  adding  boiling  water. 

Or : — Cut  the  liver  in  handsome  pieces, 
lard  them  very  nicely,  and  chop  some 
parsley  and  spread  it  over  the  surface 
with  a  little  pepper  and  salt ;  put  a  small 
piece  of  butter  well  mixed  with  flour  in 
the  bottom  of  a  stewpan,  and  put  in  the 
liver,  and  allow  it  to  stew  gently  in  its 
own  juices  until  it  is  done  enough. 

685.— TO  DRESS  LIVER  AND  LIGHTS. 

Half  boil  an  equal  quantity  of  each ; 
then  cut  them- into  a  middling-size  mince ; 
put  to  it  a  spoonful  or  two  of  the  water 
they  were  boiled  in,  a  bit  of  butter,  flour, 
salt,  and  pepper;  simmer  ten  minutes, 
and  serve  hot. 

686.— TO  DRESS  CALF'S  HEART. 

Stuff  and  roast  the  same  as  beef  heart ; 
or,  being  sliced  and  seasoned,  make  it 
into  a  pudding  as  directed  for  steak  or 
kidney  pudding.  It  may  be  either  roast- 
ed or  baked,  but  in  either  way  should  be 
well  basted,  stuffed  with  forcemeat  as 
for  veal,  but  made  rather  more  savory, 
and  served  up  in  the  same  manner  as 
beef  heartj 

When  the  kidney  is  cut  from  the  loin 
and  dressed  separately,  chop  the  kidney, 
with  some  of  the  fat ;  likewise  a  little 
leek  or  onion,  pepper,  and  salt.  Veal 
forcemeat  may  also  be  used,  but  it  rather 
weakens  the  pungency  of  the  seasoning. 
Roll  it  up  with  an  egg  into  balls,  and 
fry  them. 

63T.— SWEETBREADS. 

*For  every  mode  of  dressing,  sweet- 
breads should  be  prepared  by  blanching, 
or  rather  parboiling  them. 

They  may  be  larded  and  braised ;  and, 


being  of  themselves  rather  insipid,  they 
will  be  improved  by  a  relishing  sauce, 
and  by  a  large  quantity  of  herbs  in  the 
braise.  Slices  of  lemon  put  upon  the 
sweetbreads  while  braising,  will  heighten 
the  flavor  and  keep  them  white,  which 
is  very  desirable  when  sent  to  table  with 
white  sauce.  Stuffed  with  oysters,  they 
make  a  very  good  vol-au-vent. 

688.— SWEETBREADS  A  LA  DAUBE. 

Blanch  two  or  three  of  the  largest 
sweetbreads ;  lard  them ;  put  them  into 
a  stewpan.  with  some  good  veal  gravy, 
a  little  browning,  and  the  juice  of  half 
a  lemon ;  stew  them  till  quite  tender, 
and  just  before  serving  thicken  with 
flour  and  butter-;  glaze  them;  serve 
with  their  gravy,  with  bunches  of  boiled 
celery  round  the  dish. 

689.— SWEETBREADS  STEWED. 

After  blanching,  stuff  them  with  a 
forcemeat  of  fowl,  fat  and  lean  bacon,  an 
anchovy,  nutmeg,  lemon-peel,  parsley, 
and  a  very  little  cayenne  and  thyme; 
when  well  mixed,  add  the  yolks  of  two 
eggs,  and  fill  the  sweetbreads.  Fasten 
them  together  with  splinter-skewers,  and 
lay  them  in  a  pan,  with  slices  of  veal 
over,  and  bacon  under  them;  season 
with  pepper  and  salt,  mace,  cloves,  herbs, 
and  sliced  onion;  cover  close  over  the 
fire  ten  minutes,  then  add  a  quart  of 
broth,  and  stew  gently  two  hours ;  take 
out  the  sweetbreads,  strain  and  skim  the 
broth,  and  boil  it  to  half  a  pint ;  warm 
the  sweetbreads  in  it,  and  serve  with 
lemon  round. 

640. -FRIED. 

Cut  them  in  slices  about  three-quar- 
ters of  an  inch  thick,  dry  and  flour,  egg 
them,  and  dip  them  in  fine  bread-crumbs ; 
fry  them  of  a  light  brown ;  serve  on 
spinach,  endive,  or  sorrel ;  or  cut  some 


VEAL. 


291 


toasted  bread,  dish  them  on  it,  and  serve 
them  with  a  sauce  piquante. 

For  an  invalid,  boil  them  well,  cover 
them  with  bread-crumbs,  a  little  pepper 
and  salt,  with  a  small  bit  of  butter ; 
brown  them  lightly  with  a  salamander. 

641.— ROASTED. 

Blanch,  dry,  egg  and  bread-crumb 
them ;  pass  a  small  skewer  through  each ; 
tie  on  a  spit ;  roast  gently ;  baste  with 
fresh  butter ;  serve  nicely  frothed,  and  a 
mushroom  sauce  under  them. 

642.— SWEETBREADS  FKICASSEED  WHITE. 

Blanch  and  slice  them;  thicken  some 
veal  gravy  with  flour  and  butter  mixed ; 
a  little  cream ;  a  little  mushroom  pow- 
der, and  add  white  pepper,  nutmeg,  and 
grated  lemon-peel;  stew  these  ingredi- 
ents together  a  little,  then  simmer  the 
sweetbreads  twenfy  minutes.  When 
taken  off  the  fire,  add  a  little  salt  and 
lemon-peel ;  stir  well,  and  serve. 

648.— IF  FRICASSEED  BROWN, 

Cut  them  about  the  size  of  a  walnut, 
flour,  and  fry  them  of  a  fine  brown ; 
pour  to  them  a  good  beef  gravy,  season- 
ed with  salt,  pepper,  cayenne,  and  all- 
spice ;  simmer  till  tender ;  thicken  with 
flour  and  butter.  Morels,  truffles,  and 
mushrooms  may  be  added,  and  mush- 
room ketchup. 

644.— CROQUETTES. 

Take  two  sweetbreads  or  half  a  pound 
of  roast  veal,  one  onion  chopped  fine, 
mixed  with  a  small  piece  of  butter,  one 
egg,  and  a  little  cream;  season  with 
white  pepper,  cayenne,  and  salt.  This 
will  make  eight  or  nine  croquettes.  Roll 
them  in  egg  and  then  in  bread-crumbs ; 
fry  them  in  lard  a  nice  brown  color; 
strew  them  in  a  circle  round  the  dish,  and 
serve  fried  parsley  hi  the  centre. 


Cold  veal  chopped,  and  stewed  in  a 
little  gravy,  and  when  cold  made  up  as 
above,  makes  excellent  rissoles. 

645.— TO  ROAST  SWEETBREADS. 

Sweetbreads  should  be  soaked  in  warm 
water,  and  then  blanched  by  being 
thrown  into  boiling  water,  boiled  for  a 
few  minutes,  and  then  put  into  cold 
water.  They  may  then  be  larded  and 
roasted  or  fried,  and  afterwards  stewed 
in  butter  with  crumbs  of  bread.  Sweet- 
breads may  also  be  larded  and  braised, 
and  being  of  themselves  rather  insipid, 
they  will  be  improved  by  a  relishing 
sauce  and  by  a  large  quantity  of  herbs 
in  the  braise.  Skins  of  lemon  put  upon 
the  sweetbreads  while  braising  will 
heighten  the  flavor,  and  keep  them  white ; 
which  is  very  desirable  when  sent  to 
table  with  white  sauce.  The  usual  sauce 
with  which  they  are  served  is  butter  and 
mushroom  ketchup.  They  may  be  roast- 
ed in  a  Dutch  oven. 

646.— CERVELLE  DE  VEAU  A  LA  MAlTRE 
D'  HOTEL. 

Let  them  be  prepared.  Cut  some  bread 
into  the  shape  of  cocks'-combs,  which 
fry  in  butter  till  of  a  fine  color.  Dish 
them  between  each  half  of  the  brains, 
which  you  have  divided,  and  cover  the 
brains  over  with  a  maitre  d'  h6tel  sauce, 
two  spoonfuls  of  bechamel,  a  small  bit  of 
fresh  butter,  some  parsley  chopped  fine, 
the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  and  let  it  be 
well  seasoned. 


647.— TONGUE,  ETC. 

Neat's  tongue  should  be  boiled  full 
three  hours.  If  it  has  been  in  salt  long, 
it  is  well  to  soak  it  over  night  in  cold 
water.  Put  it  to  boil  when  the  water  is 
cold.  If  you  boil  it  in  a  small  pot,  it  is 
well  to  change  the  water,  when  it  has 
boiled  an  hour  and  a  half;  the  fresh 
water  should  boil  before  the  half-cooked 


292 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


tongue  is  put  in  again.  It  is  nicer  for 
being  kept  in  a  cool  place  a  day  or  two 
after  being  boiled.  Nearly  the  same 
rules  apply  to  salt  beef.  A  six  pound 
piece  of  corned  beef  should  boil  full  three 
hours ;  and  salt  beef  should  be  boiled 
four  hours. 

648.— CROQUETS  OF  SWEETBREAD. 
(French  Receipt.) 

Take  such  sweetbreads  as  have  already 
been  served,  cut  them  into  as  small  dice 
as  possible.  Have  some  good  veloute 
boiled  down  ready.  Throw  the  dice  of 
sweetbreads  into  the  veloute,  and  give 
them  a  boil,  that  they  may  taste  of  the 
sauce.  Then  lay  them  on  a  plate  to 
cool.  When  cold,  roll  them  into  any 
shape  you  like,  round,  oval,  or  long.  Of 
all  things  avoid  giving  them  the  shape  of 
pears,  as  some  persons  do,  for  in  that 
case  they  must  be  more  handled,  without 
at  all  improving  the  quality.  Serve  up 
with  parsley,  fried  green,  in  the  middle. 
If  you  have  some  mushrooms  left  in  the 
larder,  cut  some  likewise  in  dice,  and 
mix  them  with  the  croquets. 


649.— ESCALOPES  DE  RIS  DE  VEAU  AUX 
POIS,  OR  SCOLLOPS  OF  SWEETBREADS 
WITH  GREEN  PEAS. 

Take  four  fine  sweetbreads,  let  them 
disgorge,  and  blanch  them  thoroughly. 
Next,  cut  them  into  scollops,  as  large  as 
possible.  Mark  them  in  a  saut£-pan,  or 
fryingpan,  with  melted  butter  and  a  little 
salt.  A  quarter  of  an  hour  before  you 
send  up,  fry  them  lightly  over  a  stove, 
with  a  clear  fire ;  turn  them  round,  and 
when  done,  drain  the  butter,  and  put  a 
little  glaze  into  the  pan.  Keep  stirring 
the  sweetbreads  in  the  glaze  ;  dish  them 
miroton  way,  and  send  up  the  peas  in 
the  middle. 

When  you  have  sweetbreads  left  at 
table,  cut  them  into  scollops,  make  them 
hot  in  a  little  light  glaze,  and  after  hav- 


ing dished  them  miroton  way,  mask  them 
with  the  peas.  Scollops  of  sweetbreads 
are  easier  to  dress  when  you  put  them 
between  a  slice  of  fried  bread  cut  round, 
and  the  green  peas  in  the  middle ;  with- 
out the  fried  bread  they  do  not  keep 
the  shape  in  which,  you  dish  them. 

650.-FOIE  DE  VEAU  1  LA  POELE,  OR  SCOL- 
LQPS  OF  CALF'S  LIVER  WITH  FINE 
HERBS. 

Take  a  nice  calf  s  liver  as  white  as 
possible,  cut  it  into  slices  of  a  good 
and  equal  shape.  Dip  them  in  the 
flour,  and  fry  them  in  a  black  fryingpan, 
of  a  nice  color,  with  a  little  butter. 
When  they  are  done,  put  them  in  a  dish, 
and  take  some  fine  herbs  which  you  have 
previously  chopped  fine,  such  as  pars- 
ley, shalots,  mushrooms,  &c.  Stew  them 
slowly  on  the  fire  with  a  little  butter, 
and  when  the  herbs  are  sufficiently  done 
add  a  teaspoonful  of  flour,  and  moisten 
with  gravy,  if  you  have  any,  or  with 
water,  and  add  a  small  bit  of  glaze. 
When  done,  put  the  liver  in  the  sauce, 
which  warm,  but  do  not  allow  it  to  boil ; 
add  a  little  salt,  pepper,  lemon,  and  serve 
very  hot. 

This  is  again  a  common  dish,  yet  it  is 
very  palatable.  You  may  put  the  liver 
in  the  sauce ;  but  mind  that  it  does  not 
boil.  It  is  a  dish  for  a  breakfast  a  la 
fourchette. 

651.-CALF'S  HEAD. 

Let  the  head  be  thoroughly  cleaned,  the 
brains  and  tongue  be  taken  out,  boil  it  in 
a  cloth  to  keep  it  white,  (it  is  as  well  to 
soak  the  head  for  two  or  three  hours  pre- 
viously to  boiling,  it  helps  to  improve 
the  color,)  wash,  soak,  and  blanch  the 
brains,  then  boil  them,  scald  some  sage, 
chop  it  fine,  add  pepper,  salt,  and  a  little 
milk,  mix  it  with  the  brains ;  the  tongue, 
which  should  be  soaked  in  salt  and 
water  for  twenty-four  hours,  should  be 


VEAL. 


293 


boiled,  peeled,  and  served  on  a  separate 
dish.  The  head  should  boil  until  tender, 
and  if  intended  to  be  sent  to  table  plainly, 
should  be  served  as  taken  up.  with  melt- 
ed butter  and  parsley  ;  if  otherwise,  when 
the  head  is  boiled  sufficiently  tender, 
take  it  up,  spread  over  a  coat  of  the  yolk 
of  egg  well  beaten  up,  powder  with  bread- 
crumbs, and  brown  before  the  fire  in  a 
Dutch  or  American  oven.  * 

652— CALF'S  HEAD  BAKED. 

Butter  the  head,  and  powder  it  with  a 
seasoning  composed  of  bread-crumbs,  very 
fine,  a  few  sweet  herbs  and  sage,  chopped 
very  fine,  cayenne,  white  pepper,  and  salt. 
Divide  the  brains  into  several  pieces,  not 
too  small,  sprinkle  them  with  bread- 
crumbs, and  lay  them  in  the  dish  with 
the  head.  Stick  a  quantity  of  small 
pieces  of  butter  over  the  head  and  in  the 
eyes,  throw  crumbs  over  all,  pour  in 
three  parts  of  the  dish  full  of  water,  and 
bake  in  a  fast  oven  two  hours. 

658.— CHITTEELINGS, 

Or  calf's  tripe,  stewed  tender  and  serv- 
ed on  toast  with  a  sauce  of  onions  boiled 
and  mashed  in  milk,  with  butter  added, 
form  a  nice  dish.  They  are  eaten  with 
pepper  and  vinegar. 

654.-HASHED  CALF'S  HEAD. 

Put  into  a  stewpan  one  table-spoonful 
of  chopped  onions,  and  three  of  vinegar, 
take  the  remains  of  the  head  which  cut 
into  slices,  place  them  on  a  dish,  add  a 
table-spoonful  of  flour  to  them,  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  a  quarter  of  one  of 
pepper,  put  the  stewpan  on  the  fire  to 
boil  for  one  minute,  add  the  pieces  of 
head,  and  moisten  with  half  a  pint  of  broth, 
water,  or  milk;  let  it  simmer  for  ten 
minutes  and  serve  on  toast  or  plain,  or 
with  sippets  round.  The  addition  of  a 
few  gherkins  sliced  or  any  mixed  pickle 
is  an  improvement.  A  little  thyme  or 
bay -leaf,  if  at  hand,  may"  be  added.  If 
19 


with  water  or  gravy  a  little  Coloring  will 
improve  the  appearance.  This  receipt  is 
for  one  pound  of  meat.  It  may  also  be 
warmed  in  curry-sauce,  and  is  excellent 

655.— CALF'S  HEAD  A  LA  TOKTUE. 

Bone  a  calf  s  head  whole ;  after  being 
well  scalded  and  cleaned  cut  off  the  ears, 
take  out  the  tongue,  cut  the  gristle  and 
bones  from  the  tongue ;  prepare  a  good 
forcemeat,  add  some  chopped  truffles  into 
it,  and  some  mushrooms ;  lay  the  head  on 
a  clean  cloth  on  the  dresser,  spread  it 
thickly  over  with  the  forcemeat,  blanch 
and  take  off  the  skin  of  the  tongue ;  cut 
each  ear  in  half  longways,  place  them  in 
different  parts  on  the  forcemeat  and  the 
tongue  in  the  middle,  lap  it  over  keeping 
it  high  in  the  middle,  tie  the  ends,  and 
brace  it  all  over  tightly  with  some  loose 
string,  as  by  doing  so  it  will  leave  all  the 
marks  appearing  when  glazed  like  the 
back  shell  of  turtle,  then  tie  it  up  in  a 
cloth;  it  will  take  some  hours  to  boil; 
when  done,  which  will  be  in  your  second 
stock',  take  it  up  and  take  off  the  cloth, 
put  it  upon  the  dish,  dry  it  and  glaze  it 
several  times ;  have  ready  cut  from  the 
crumb  of  bread  the  form  of  a  turtle's 
head  and  the  four  fins,  fry  them  a  nice 
light  brown,  and  glaze  them  with  the 
head,  placing  them  to  the  head  on  the 
dish,  as  to  look  like  a  turtle  crawling,  for 
the  eyes  use  whites  of  hard  boiled  eggs  j 
a  sauce  you  will  find  among  the  sauces. 

656.— CALF'S  HEAD. 

Choose  one  thick  and  fat,  but  not  too 
large ;  soak  for  ten  minutes  in  lukewarm 
water,  then  well  powder  with  rosin,  have 
plenty  of  scalding  water  ready,  dip  in 
the  head,  holding  it  by  the  ear,  scrape 
the  hair  off  with  the  back  of  a  knife, 
which  will  come  off  easily  if  properly 
scraped,  without  scratching  the  cheek ; 
when  perfectly  clean,  take  the  eyes  out, 
saw  it  in  two  lengthwise,  through  the 
skull,  without  spoiling  the  brain,  which 


294 


THE   PEACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


take  carefully  out,  and  put  to  disgorge  for 
a  few  hours  in  lukewarm  water ;  pull  the 
tongue  out,  break  the  jaw-bone,  and  re- 
move the  part  which  contains  the  teeth, 
put  the  head  into  plenty  of  water  to  dis- 
gorge for  one  hour ;  make  the  following 
stock  and  boil  for  about  two  hours  and  a 
half,  and  it  will  be  ready  to  serve. 

The  stock  is  made  by  putting  into  a 
braising-pan  two  carrots,  three  onions,  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  six  cloves, 
a  bouquet  of  parsley,  thyme,  and  bay- 
leaves  ;  set  it  on  the  fire  for  about  twenty 
minutes,  keep  stirring  it  round,  then  add 
a  pint  of  water,  and  when  warm  mix  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  flour,  add  a  gallon 
of  water,  one  lemon  in  slices,  and  a  quar- 
ter of  a  pound  of  salt,  then  lay  the  head 
in ;  take  care  it  is  well  covered,  or  the 
part  exposed  will  turn  dark;  simmer 
gently  till  tender. 

657.— BIS  DE  VEAU  EN  CAISSES. 

Blanch  three  sweetbreads,  and  simmer 
m  a  strong,  well  flavored  gravy  till  quite 
done.  Have  ready  three  found  pieces  of 
white  paper  oiled,  and  lay  them  thereon ; 
having  left  them  lightly  wetted  with 
gravy,  sprinkle  over  them  the  finest 
crumbs  or  raspings  of  bread,  pepper,  salt, 
and  a  very  little  nutmeg ;  do  them  slowly 
on  a  gridiron,  and  serve  in  the  cases. 
Any  of  the  vegetable  sauces  may  be 
served  with  them. 

658.— GAKNITUEE  EN  KAGOUT. 

Having  prepared  and  blanched  sweet- 
breads of  veal  or  lamb  (house-lamb  is  the 
best),  liver  of  lamb  and  rabbits,  truffles 
and  mushrooms,  simmer  gently  half  an 
hour  in  rich  veal  broth  ;  then  divide  the 
several  articles  into  fit  bits  for  helping, 
and  stew  the  whole  until  very  tender. 
If,  when  finished,  the  gravy  wants  con- 
sistence, boil  up  in  it  a  good  piece  of 
butter  rolled  in  flour.  Season  it  fifteen 
minutes  before  serving,  with  white  pep- 


per, salt,  and  nutmeg  only.  Have  ready 
and  hot,  forcemeat  balls,  in  which  finely 
scraped  ham,  beef  suet,  the  breast  of  a 
fowl,  or  cold  veal,  are  the  principal  ingre- 
dients. 

It  may  be  served  in  a  tureen  as  soup, 
or  in  an  ornamented  crust  previously 
baked.  If  to  be  white,  beat  as  many 
yolks  of  eggs  as  the  quantity  may  re- 
quire, ancj,  simmer  in  the  ragout  two 
minutes  :  it  must  not  boil.  Sometimes 
one  or  two  whole  pigeons,  nicely  pre- 
pared, form  a  part  of  this  much  admired 
dish,  which  in  one  way  or  other  is  rarely 
omitted  on  weM.  covered  tables. 

659.— YEAL  CAKE. 

Bone  a  breast  of  veal,  and  cut  it  in 
slices  ;  cut  also  slices  of  ham  or  lean  ba- 
con, and  boil  six  eggs  hard  ;  butter  a 
deep  pan,  and  place  the  whole  in  layers 
one  over  the  other,  cutting  the  eggs  in 
slices,  and  seasoning  with  chopped  herbs 
and  cayenne  pepper,  and  wetting  the 
herbs  with  anchovy  or  other  highly-fla- 
vored sauce.  Cover  up  the  whole,  let  it 
bake  for  four  hours,  and  when  taken 
from  the  oven,  lay  a  weight  upon  it  to 
press  it  well  together.  When  cold,  turn 
it  out. 

$r 

*        660.— ANOTHER. 

Boil  six  or  eight  eggs  hard ;  cut  the 
yolks  in  two,  and  lay  some  of  the  pieces 
in  the  bottom  of  the  pan ;  shake  in  a  lit- 
tle chopped  parsley,  some  slices  of  veal 
and  ham,  and  then  eggs  again,  shaking  in 
after  each  some  chopped  parsley,  with 
pepper  and  salt,  till  the  pan  is  full.  Then 
put  in  water  enough  to  cover  it,  and  lay 
on  it  about  an  ounce  of  butter ;  tie  it 
down  with  a  double  paper,  and  bake  it 
about  an  hour.  Then  press  it  close  to- 
gether with  a  spoon,  and  let  it  stand  till 
cold.  It  may  be  put  into  a  small  mould, 
and  then  it  will  turn  out  beautifully  for 
a  supper  or  side  dish. 


VEAL. 


295 


661.— ANOTHER. 

Chop  very  finely  cold  dressed  veal  and 
ham  or  bacon ;  mix  it  with  a  slice  of 
bread-crumb  soaked  in  milk,  two  onions 
chopped  and  browned,  a  little  salt,  pep- 
per, and  an  egg  beaten.  Put  all  these 
ingredients  into  a  stewpan  until  they  are 
hot  and  are  well  mixed ;  then  oil  or  but- 
ter a  mould,  put  in  the  whole,  and  bake 
it  in  an  oven  until  it  is  brown ;  then  take 
ijt  out,  and  send  it  to  table  with  fresh 
gravy. 

662.— VEAL  BOLLS 

Are  cut  from  any  cold  joint,  or  pre- 
pared in  the  same  manner  from  the  raw 
meat.  Cut  thin  slices,  and  spread  on 
them  a  fine  seasoning  of  a  very  few 
crumbs,  a  little  chopped  or  scraped  bacon, 
parsley  and  shalot,  some  fresh  mush- 
rooms stewed  and  minced,  pepper,  salt, 
and  a  small  piece  of  pounded  mace.  This 
stuffing  may  either  fill* up  the  roll  like  a 
sausage,  or  be  rolled,  with  the  meat.  In 
either  case,  tie  it  up  very  tight,  and  stew 
very  slowly  in  a  gravy  and  a  glass  of 
sherry.  Serve  it  when  tender,  after 
skimming  it  nicely. 

663.— BLANQUETTES. 

Melt  a  piece  of  butter  the  size  of  a 
walnut  in  a  stewpan  ;  then  put  in  a  little 
thyme,  parsley,  or  any  herbs  you  like  the 
flavor-  of,  and  a  little  onion,  all  chopped 
fine,  with  a  pinch  of  flour.  Brown  the 
herbs  ;  add  pepper  and  salt,  with  a  clove 
or  two.  Then  put  in  cold  or  undressed 
veal,  cut  in  thin  slices  the  size  of  half  a 
crown;  add  gravy  or  "broth,  half  a  pint, 
or  according  to  the  quantity  of  meat  you 
want  to  dress.  It  should  not  be  too  large 
a  dish.  Let  it  stew  very  gently  over  a 
stove ;  if  of  dressed  meat,  one  hour  will 
be  sufficient;  add  half  a  teacupful  of 
cream,  and  stir  it  well  together  for  a  few 
minutes  ;  then  take  it  up,  and  before  you 
turn  it  out  have  two  yolks  of  eggs  well 
beaten,  and  add  to  your  dish.  Give  it  a 


few  shakes  over  the  fire.    It  must  not 
boil,  or  it  will  curdle. 

Or : — Cut  rabbits,  fowl,  veal,  or  lobster 
in  pieces,  steep  them  (except  the  veal  and 
fish)  in  water  for  half  an  hour,  changing 
the  water.  Put  some  butter  in  a  stewpan 
to  melt,  but  do  not  let  it  fry ;  put  in  the 
meat  with  a  very  little  flour,  and  keep 
shaking  it  well ;  pour  in  by  degrees  some 
broth  made  of  white  meat,  add  a  bunch 
of  parsley,  an  onion,  salt,  mace,  and  white 
pepper.  Stew  it  well  a  quarter  of  an 
hour  before  it  is  dished;  take  out  the 
parsley  and  onion,  and  add  some  raw 
parsley  chopped,  and  the  yolk  of  an  egg 
and  cream  beaten  together.  You  must 
never  cease  shaking  the  pan  until  the 
blanquette  is  put  over  the  dish. 

664.— VEAL  1  LA  CHARTREUSE. 
Line  a  copper  mould  with  fat  bacon, 
lay  sliced  carrots  and  turnips  round  the 
edges,  then  cover  with  a  forcemeat,  and 
put  in  a  fricassee  of  veal  or  fowl.  Cover 
the  top  of  the  mould  with  a  paste,  steam 
it  an  hour,  and  serve  it  turned  out  upon  a 
dish. 

665.— TO  MARBLE  VEAL. 

Boil  tender,  skin,  and  cut  a  dried 
neat's  tongue  in  thin  slices,  and  beat  it  as 
fine  as  possible,  with  half  a  pound  of 
butter  and  some  mace  pounded.  Have 
ready  some  roasted  fillet  of  veal,  beaten 
with  butter,  and  seasoned  with  white 
pepper  and  salt ;  of  this  put  a  thick  layer 
in  a  large  potting-pot,  then  put  in  the 
tongue,  in  rough  irregular  lumps,  not  to 
touch  each  other;  fill  up  the  pot  with 
veal,  and  press  it  down  quite  close.  Pour 
clarified  butter  thick  over ;  keep  in  a  dry 
cool  place,  and  serve  in  thin  slices,  taking 
off  the  butter.  Garnish  with  parsley. 

666.— SCALLOPS  OF  COLD  VEAL. 

Mince  the  meat  extremely  small,  and 
set  it  over  the  fire,  with  a  scrape  of  nut- 
meg, a  little  pepper  and  salt,  and  a  little 


296 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


cream,  for  a  few  minutes ;  then  put  it 
into  the  scallop-shells,  and  fill  them  with 
crumbs  of  bread,  over  which  put  some 
bits  of  butter,  and  brown  them  before 
the  fire. 

Either  veal  or  chicken  looks  and  eats 
well  prepared  in  this  way,  and  lightly 
covered  with  crumbs  of  bread  fried ;  or 
these  may  be  put  on  in  little  heaps. 

667.— TO  MINCE  VEAL. 

f 

Cut  cold  veal  as  fine  as  possible,  but  do 
not  chop  it ;  put  to  it  a  very  little  lemon- 
peel  shred,  two  grates  of  nutmeg,  some 
salt,  and  four  or  five  spoonfuls  of  either 
broth,  milk,  or  water;  simmer  these 
gently  with  the  meat,  but  take  care  not 
to  let  it  boil,  and  add  a  bit  of  butter 
rubbed  in  flour.  Put  sippets  of  thin 
toasted  bread,  cut  into  a  three-cornered 
shape,  round  the  dish.  Fried  crumbs  of 
bread  lightly  strewed  over,  or  served  in 
little  heaps  on  the  meat,  are  an  improve- 
ment to  the  look  and  flavor.  A  little 
shred  of  shalot  may  occasionally  be  added. 

Or : — Stew  a  few  small  mushrooms  in 
their  own  liquor  and  a  bit  of  butter  a 
quarter  of  an  hour ;  mince  them  very 
small,  and  add  them  (with  their  liquor) 
to  minced  veal,  with  also  a  little  pepper 
and  salt,  some  cream,  and  a  bit  of  butter 
rubbed  in  less  than  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
flour.  Simmer  three  or  four  minutes,  and 
serve  on  thin  sippets  of  bread. 

668.— THE  TUEKISH  MODE 

Take  equal  quantities  of  cold  dressed 
veal,  minced  very  fine,  fat,  and  crumbs  of 
bread,  and  season  it  well ;  add  chopped 
oni  ons,  parsley,  salt,  and  cayenne  pepper ; 
wet  it  with  one  or  two  eggs,  according  to 
the  quantity,  adding,  if  necessary,  a  little 
cold  melted  butter;  make  the  mixture 
into  balls  or  egg-shapes,  and  roll  them  in 
as  much  boiled  rice  as  they  will  take 
round  them.  Stew  them  for  an  hour  and 
a  half  in  good  gravy,  well  seasoned,  and 
serve  them  up  in  it. 


In  all  these  modes,  the  addition  may 
be  made  of  sauce  aux  truffes,  or  any  of 
the  approved  sauces ;  and  a  squeeze  of 
lemon  will  in  all  cases  be  found  to  give  a 
pleasing  zest  to  their  flavor. 

669.— CUEKY  OP  VEAL. 
Cut  part  of  a  breast  of  veal  in  moderate 
sized  pieces,  put  it  in  a  stewpan  with  an 
onion  and  a  shalot  sliced  fine,  a  slice  of 
lemon,  one  ounce  of  butter,  a  little  pars- 
ley and  thyme,  and  a  table-spoonful  of 
curry-powder  mixed  with  the  same  quan- 
tity of  flour;  add  sufficient  broth  or 
water  for  the  sauce ;  let  it  boil  gently 
till  the  veal  is  done;  strain  the  sauce 
through  a  sieve,  pour  it  over  the  veal 
quite  hot,  and  serve  with  rice  in  a  sepa- 
rate dish. 

670.— A  BOAST  BEEF  OF  LAMB* 

Take  the  saddle  and  the  two  legs  of  a 
lamb,  cut  on  the  middle  of  each  leg  a 
small  rosette,  which  is  to  be  larded,  as 
also  the  fillets.  Roast  the  whole,  and 
glaze  the  larded  parts  of  a  good  color. 
In  France  it  is  served  up  with  maitre 
d'hdtel  sauce,  but  in  England  with  gravy 
under  it,  and  mint-sauce  in  a  boat. 


MUTTOK 

THIS  is  a  delicate  and  a  favorite  meat. 
It  is  susceptible  of  many  modes  of  cook- 
ing, and  should  always  be  served  very 
hot  and  with  very^hot  plates,  except  of 
course  in  cases  where  it  may  be  sent  to 
table  as  a  cold  dish.  It  is  a  meat  which 

*The  appellation  of  "roast  beef  of  lamb"  must 
sound  very  extraordinary  to  an  American  ear,  but  the 
singularity  of  the  name  is  as  nothing  when  com- 
pared with  the  importance  and  necessity  of  the  dish. 
At  a  very  great  dinner,  it  is  essential  to  have  some 
dish  of  magnitude.  This  has  a  very  good  appearance, 
and  is  truly  excellent.  I  beg  to  recommend  the 
trial  of  a  maitre  d'hotel  sauce  under,  as  the  butter 
parsley,  salt,  pepper,  and  lemon-juice,  agree  weL 
with  the  gravy  of  the  meat.— UDE. 


MUTTON. 


297 


requires  care  in  the  cooking,  which  it  will 
amply  repay.  The  roasting  parts  are  the 
better  for  hanging  some  time,  especially 
the  haunch  or  saddle,  but  not  for  boiling, 
as  the  color  is  apt  to  be  injured.  One  of 
the  most  favorite  dishes  is  the 


671.— HAUNCH  OF  MUTTON. 

The  haunch  should  be  hung  as  long  as 
possible  without  being  tainted ;  it  should 
be  washed  with  vinegar  every  day  while 
hanging,  and  dried  thoroughly  after  each 
washing ;  if  the  weather  be  muggy  rub- 
bing with  sugar  will  prevent  its  turning 
sour;  if  warm  weather,  pepper  and  ground 
ginger  rubbed  over  it  will  keep  off  the 
flies. 

When  ready  for  roasting,  paper  the  fat, 
commence  roasting  some  distance  from 
the  fire,  baste  with  milk  and  water  first, 
and  then  when  the  fat  begins  dripping, 
change  the  dish  and  baste  with  its  own 
dripping;  half  an  hour  previous  to  its 
being  done  remove  the  paper  from  the 
fat,  place  it  closer  to  the  fire,  baste  well, 
serve  with  currant  jelly. 


6T2.— TO  STUFF  A  LEG  OF  MUTTON. 

Take  a  leg  of  mutton,  cut  off  all  the 
fat,  take  the  bone  carefully  out  and  pre- 
serve the  skin  whole ;  take  out  the  meat 
and  mince  it  fine,  and  mix  and  mince  with 
it  about  one  pound  of  fat  bacon  and 
some  parsley ;  season  the  whole  well  with 
pepper  and  salt,  and  a  small  quantity  of 
eschalot  or  chives  chopped  fine  ;  then  put 
the  meat  into  the  skin  and  sew  it  up 
neatly  on  the  under  side ;  tie  it  up  in  a 
cloth  and  put  it  into  a  stewpan  with  two 
or  three  slices  of  veal,  some  sliced  carrots 
and  onions,  a  bunch  of  parsley,  and  a 
few  slices  of  fat  bacon ;  let  it  stew  for 
three  or  four  hours,  and  drain  the  liquor 
through  a  fine  sieve ;  when  reduced  to  a 
glaze,  glaze  the  mutton  with  it  and  serve 
in  stewed  French  beans. 


673.— TO  DBESS  A  LEG  OF  MUTTON  WITH 
OYSTEE8. 

Parboil  some  fine  well-fed  oysters,  take 
off  the  beards  and  horny  parts ;  put  to 
them  some  parsley,  minced  onion,  and 
sweet  herbs,  boiled  and  chopped  fine,  and 
the  yolks  of  two  or  three  hard  boiled 
eggs.  Mix  all  together,  and  cut  five  or 
six  holes  in  the  fleshy  part  of  a  leg  o 
mutton,  and  put  in  the  mixture;  and 
dress  it  in  either  of  the  following  ways : 
— Tie  it  up  in  a  cloth  and  let  it  boil 
gently  two  and  a  half  or  three  hours,  ac- 
cording to  the  size. 

Or : — Braise  it}  and  serve  with  a  pun- 
gent brown  sauce. 

674.— SADDLE  OF  MUTTON. 

This  joint,  like  the  haunch,  gains  much 
of  its  flavor  from  hanging  for  some  pe- 
riod. The  skin  should  be  taken  off,  but 
skewered  on  again  until  within  rather 
more  than  a  quarter  of  an  hour  of  its 
being  done;  then  let  it  be  taken  off, 
dredge  the  saddle  with  flour,  baste  well. 
The  kidneys  may  be  removed  or  remain 
at  pleasure,  but  the  fat  which  is  found 
within  the  saddle  should  be  removed 
previous  to  cooking. 

675.— LEG  OF  MUTTON  BOASTED, 
Like  the  haunch  and  saddle,  should  be 
hung  before  cooking,  should  be  slowly 
roasted  and  served  with  onion  sauce  or 
currant  jelly. 

676.— EOAST  LEG  OF  MUTTON.— ANOTHEE 
EECEIPT. 

Put  the  leg  into  an  iron  saucepan  with 
enough  cold  water  to  cover  it,  let  it  come 
to  a  boil  gently,  parboil  it  by  simmering 
only ;  have  the  spit  or  jack  ready,  and 
take  it  from  the  hot  water  and  put  it  to 
the  fire  instantly;  it  will  take  from  an 
hour  to  an  hour  and  a  half  if  large,  and 
less  time  if  small. 

677  —EOAST  LEG  OF  MUTTON  BONED  AND 
STUFFED. 

The  principal  skill  required  in  accom- 


298 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


plishing  this  dish  is  the  boning ;  this  must 
be  done  with  a  very  sharp  knife.  Com- 
mence on  the  underside  of  the  joint, 
passing  the  knife  under  the  skin  until 
exactly  over  the  bone,  then  cut  down  to 
it,  pass  the  knife  round  close  to  the  bone 
right  up  to  the  socket,  then  remove  the 
large  bone  of  the  thickest  end  of  the  leg, 
seeing  the  meat  is  clear  of  the  bone ;  you 
may  then  draw  out  the  remaining  bones 
easily.  Put  in  the  orifice  a  highly  sea- 
soned forcemeat,  fasten  the  knuckle  end 
tightly  over,  replace  the  bone  at  the 
base  of  the  joint,  and  sew  it  in ;  roast  it 
in  a  cradle  spit  or  on  a  jack  ;  if  the  latter 
let  the  knuckle  end  be  downwards  as  it 
is  less  likely  to  suffer  the  forcemeat  to 
drop  out.  It  must  be  well  basted,  and 
should  be  sent  to  table  with  a  good 
gravy.  * 

678.— LEG  OF  MUTTON  BOILED, 
Should  be  first  soaked  for  an  hour  and 
a  half  in  salt  and  water,  care  being  taken 
that  the  water  be  not  too  salt,  then 
wiped  and  boiled  in  a  floured  cloth ;  the 
time  necessary  for  boiling  will  depend 
upon  the  weight;  two  hours  or  two 
hours  and  a  half  should  be  about  the 
time ;  it  should  be  served  with  turnips 
mashed,  potatoes,  greens,  and  caper- 
sauce,  or  brown  cucumber,  or  oyster 
sauce. 

679.-LEG  OF  MUTTON  BEAISED. 

Procure  a  leg  of  mutton  of  choice  fla- 
vor, take  off  the  knuckle  neatly,  divide  it 
into  two  or  three  pieces,  trim  the  leg  of 
all  the  superfluous  edges,  and  then  half 
roast  it ;  place  it  with  the  broken  knuckle 
in  a  stewpan,  add  the  trimmings  with 
half  a  dozen  slices  of  rich  fat  bacon, 
thjftne,  knotted  marjoram,  and  other 
sweet  herbs,  an  onion  stuck  with  cloves, 
and  about  half  an  ounce  of  butter  rolled 
in  flour;  stew  the  whole  gently,  shaking 
it  occasionally  and  turn  it  while  stewing; 
when  it  is  tender  take  it  up,  skim  the 


gravy,  strain,  boil  it  fast  until  reduced  to 
a  glaze,  make  a  puree  or  soup  of  vege- 
tables and  place  the  mutton  upon  it.  cover 
the  mutton  with  the  glaze,  and  serve. 

680.— TO  SEND  A  LEG  OF  MUTTON  NEATLY 
TO  TABLE  WHICH  HAS  BEEN  CUT  FOE 
A  PEEVIOUS  MEAL. 

Too  much  must  not  have  been  cut  from 
the  joint  or  it  will  not  answer  the  pnr- 
pose.  Bone  it,  cut  the  meat  as  a  fillet, 
lay  forcemeat  inside,  roll  it,  and  lay  it  in 
a  stewpan  with  sufficient  water  to  cover 
it ;  add  various  kinds  of  vegetables,  onions, 
turnips,  carrots,  parsley,  &c.,  in  small 
quantities ;  stew  two  hours,  thicken  the 
gravy,  serve  the  fillets  with  the  vegetables 
round  it. 

681.— SADDLE  OF  MUTTON,  A  LA  POLO- 
NAISE.   (Soyer's.) 

This  is  my  economical  dish,  par  excel- 
lence, and  very  much  it  is  liked  every 
time  I  use  it.  Take  the  remains  of  a 
saddle  of  mutton,  of  the  previous  day,  cut 
out  all  the  meat  close  to  the  bone,  leav- 
ing about  one  inch  wide  on  the  outside, 
cut  it  with  a  portion  of  the  fat,  into  small 
dice ;  then  put  a  spoonful  of  chopped 
onions  in  a  stewpan,  with  a  little  butter ; 
fry  one  minute,  add  the  meat,  with  a 
table-spoonful  of  flour,  season  rather  high 
with  salt,  pepper,  and  a  little  grated  nut- 
meg ;  stir  round,  and  moisten  with  a  gill 
or  a  little  more  of  broth,  add  a  bay-leaf, 
put  it  on  the  stove  for  ten  minutes,  add 
two  yolks  of  eggs,  stir  till  rather  thick, 
make  about  two  pounds  of  mashed  pota- ' 
toes  firm  enough  to  roll,  put  the  saddle- 
bone  in  the  middle  of  the  dish,  and  with 
the  potatoes  form  an  edging  round  the 
saddle,  so  as  to  give  the  shape  of  one, 
leaving  the  middle  empty ;  fill  it  with  your 
mince  meat,  which  ought  to  be  enough  to 
do  so;  if  you  should  not  have  enough 
with  the  remains  of  the  saddle,  the  re- 
mains of  any  other  joint  of  mutton  may 
be  used ;  egg  all  over,  sprinkle  bread- 


MUTTON. 


299 


crumbs  around,  put  in  rather  a  hot  oven, 
to  get  a  nice  yellow  color,  poach  six  eggs, 
and  place  on  the  top,  and  serve  brown 
gravy  round ;  white  or  brown  sauce,  if 
at  hand,  is  an  improvement.  You  may 
easily  fancy  the  economy  of  this  well- 
looking  and  good  dish ;  the  remains  of  a 
leg,  shoulder,  loin,  neck  of  mutton,  and 
lamb,  may  be  dressed  the  same  way,  keep- 
ing their  shape  of  course. 

682.— SOYER'S  NEW  MUTTON  CHOP. 

Trim  a  middling-sized  saddle  of  mut- 
ton, which  cut  into  chops  half  an  inch  in 
thickness  with  a  saw,  without  at  all 
making  use  of  a  knife  (the  sawing  them 
off  jagging  the  meat  and  causing  them  to 
eat  more  tender,)  then  trim  them  into 
shape ;  season  well  with  salt  and  pep- 
per, place  them  upon  a  gridiron  over 
a  sharp  fire,  turning  them  three  or  four 
times ;  they  would  require  ten  min- 
utes' booking;  when  done  dress  them 
upon  a  hot  dish,  spread  a  small  piece 
of  butter  over  each,  (if  approved  of.) 
and  serve ;  by  adding  half  a  table-spoonful 
of  good  sauce  to  each  chop  when  serving, 
and  turning  it  over  two  or  three  times, 
an  excellent  entree  is  produced :  the  bone 
keeping  the  gravy  in  whilst  cooking,  it  is 
a  very  great  advantage  to  have  chops  cut 
after  this  method.  At  home,  when  I 
have  a  saddle  of  mutton,  I  usually  cut  two 
or  three  such  chops,  which  I  broil,  rub 
maitre-d'hdtel  butter  over,  and  serve  with 
fried  potatoes  round,  using  the  remainder 
of  the  saddle  the  next  day  for  a  joint. 
The  above  are  also  very  excellent,  well 
seasoned  and  dipped  into  egg  and  bread- 
crumbs previous  to  broiling.  Lamb  chops 
may  be  cut  precisely  the  same,  but  re- 
quire a  few  minutes'  less  broiling. 

You  must  remark  that,  by  this  plan, 
the  fat  and  lean  are  better  divided,  and 
you  can  enjoy  both ;  whilst  the  other  is 
a  lump  of  meat  near  the  bone  and  fat  at 
the  other  end,  which  partly  melts  in 


cooking,  and  is  often  burnt  by  the  flame 
it  makes ;  the  new  one  not  being  divided 
at  the  bone,  keeps  the  gravy  in  admirably. 
If  well  sawed  it  should  not  weigh  more 
than  the  ordinary  one,  being  about  half 
the  thickness.  Do  try  them,  and  let  me 
know  your  opinion. 

688.— NECK  OF  MUTTON 

Is  particularly  useful,  as  many  dishes 
may  be  made  of  it.  The  best  end  of  the 
neck  may  be  boiled  for  one  hour  and  a 
half,  and  served  with  turnips ;  or  roast- 
ed; dressed  in  steaks;  in  pies;  a-la- 
Turc ;  or  en  haricot. 

The  scrag  may  be  stewed  into  broth ; 
or  with  a  small  quantity  of  water,  some 
small  onions,  a  few  peppercorns,  and  a 
little  rice,  and  served  together. 

684.-SHOULDEB  OF  MUTTON 

Must  be  well  roasted  and  sent  to  table 
with  skin  a  nice  brown;  it  is  served 
with  onion  sauce.  This  is  the  plainest 
fashion,  and  for  small  families  the  best. 

685.— A  SHOULDER  OF  MUTTON  WITH 
EICE. 

Take  a  sHoulder  of  mutton  and  half 
boil  it,  then  put  it  into  a  stewpan,  with 
two  quarts  of  mutton  gravy,  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  rice,  a  teaspoonful  of  musl^- 
room  powder,  with  a  little  beaten  mace, 
and  stew  it  till  the  rice  is  tender ;  then 
take  up  the  mutton  and  keep  it  hot ;  put 
to  the  rice  half  a  pint  of  cream,  .and  a 
piece  of  butter  rolled  in  flour ;  stir  it 
well  round  the  pan,  and  let  it  boil  a  few 
minutes;  lay  the  mutton  in  the  dish, 
and  pour  the  rice  over  it. 

686.— LOIN  OF  MUTTON  STEWED. 

Remove  the  skin,  bone  it,  and  then 
roll  it ;  put  it  in  a  stewpan  with  a  pint 
and  a  half  of  water,  two  dessert-spoon- 


300 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


fuls  of  pyroligneous  acid,  a  piece  of  but- 
ter, sweet  herbs,  and  an  onion  or  two; 
when  it  has  stewed  nearly  four  hours, 
strain  the  gravy,  add  two  spoonfuls  of 
red  wine,  take  up  and  serve  with  jelly 
sauce. 

687.— BEEAST  OF  MUTTON 

May  be  stewed  in  gravy  until  tender, 
bone  it,  score  it,  season  well  with  cay- 
enne, black  pepper,  and  salt ;  boil  it,  and 
while  cooking  skim  the  fat  from  the 
gravy  in  which  it  has  been  stewed,  slice 
a  few  gherkins,  and  add  with  a  dessert- 
spoonful of  mushroom  ketchup  ;  boil  it, 
and  pour  over  the  mutton  when  dished. 

688.— BEEAST  OF  MUTTON  CEUMBED  OE 
GEATIN. 

If  one  breast  of  mutton,-  cut  oif  the 
chine-bone  down  to  the  gristle ;  if  you 
have  a  stock  pot  on,  put  the  breast  of 
mutton  into  it,  let  it  boil  until  tender, 
then  take  it  up  to  cool ;  have  ready  as 
for  the  crumbed  cutlets,  adding  in  the 
butter  and  egg  a  little  chopped  mush- 
room ;  put  it  all  over  the  breast  with  a 
paste  brush,  then  put  it  on  a  dish  and 
'in  the  oven  to  brown ;  the  sauce  will  be 
under  it  when  dished. 

689.— NECK  OF  MUTTON. 

This  dish  is  most  useful  for  broth,  but 
may  be  made  a  pleasant  dish  by  judi: 
cious  cooking.  To  send  it  to  table  merely 
boiled  or  baked  is  to  disgust  the  partaker 
of  it.  When  it  is  cooked  as  a  single 
dish,  first  boil  it  slowly  until  nearly 
done,  then  having  moistened  a  quantity 
of  bread-crumbs  and  sweet  herbs,  chop- 
ped very  fine,  with  the  yolk  of  an  egg, 
let  the  mutton  be  covered  with  it,  and 
placed  in  a  Dutch  or  American  oven  be- 
fore the  fire,  and  served  when  nicely 
browned.  The  breast  may  be  cooked  in 
the  same  manner. 


690.— STEAKS  FKOM  A  LOIN  OF  MUTTON 
Are  done  in  the  same  way,  only  trim- 
ming some  of  the  fat  oft'.     Cut  thick  and 
stew  instead  of  frying  them. 

691.— MUTTON  STEAKS. 

The  steaks  are  cut  from  the  thick  or 
fifiet  end  of  a  leg  of  mutton,  and  dressed 
as  rump  steaks. 

692.— MUTTON  CHOPS  BEOILED. 

Cut  from  the  best  end  of  the  loin,  trim 
them  nicely,  removing  fat  or  skin,  leav- 
ing only  enough  of  the  former  to  make 
them  palatable ;  let  the  fire  be  very  clear 
before' placing  the  chops  on  the  gridiron, 
turn  them  frequently,  taking  care  that 
the  fork  is  not  put  into  the  lean  part  of 
the  chop ;  season  them  with  pepper  and 
salt,  spread  a  little  fresh  butter  over  each 
chop  when  nearly  done,  and  send  them 
to  table  upon  very  hot  plates. 

693.— MUTTON  CHOPS  FEIED. 

The  fat  in  which  the  chops  are  to  be 
fried  should  be  boiling  when  the  chops 
are  put  into  it.  They  should  be  pared  of 
fat  and  well  trimmed  before  cooking; 
they  should  be  turned  frequently,  and 
when  nicely  browned  they  will  be  done ; 
of  course  if  they  are  very  thick  judg- 
ment must  be  .exercised  respecting  the 
length  of  time  they  will  occupy  in  cook- 
ing. 


Mutton  Chop. 

I 
694.-CHOPS  AS  BEEFSTEAKS. 

Cut  thick  from  a  leg  of  mutton,  and 
rub  each  steak  with  a  shalot ;  boil  over 
a  qu  ck  fire;  rub  your  dish  with  shalot ; 
when  on  the  dish  pepper  and  salt  it ; 
send  it  up  quite  hot. 


MUTTON. 


301 


695.— MUTTON  CUTLETS. 

Loin  chops  make  the  best  cutlets. 
Take  off  the  vertebraa  or  thickest  end  of 
each  bone  and  about  an  inch  off  the  top 
of  the  bone ;  put  the  chops  into  a  stew- 
pan  in  which  has  been  previously  melt- 
ed a  little  butter  seasoned  with  salt ; 
stew  for  a  short  time,  but  not  until  they 
are  brown,  as  that  appearance  is  accom- 
plished in  another  manner.  Chop  some 
parsley  very  fine,  add  a  little  thyme, 
mix  it  with  sufficient  yolk  of  egg  to 
coat  the  chops,  which  will  have  been 
suffered  to  cool  before  this  addition  to 
them;  then  powder  them  with  bread- 
crumbs over  which  a  pinch  of  cayenne 
pepper  has  been  sprinkled;  broil  them 
upon  a  gridiron  over  a  clear  but  not  a 
brisk  fire ;  when  they  are  brown  dish 
them ;  lemon-juice  may  be  squeezed  over 
them,  or  the  dish  in  which  they  are  serv- 
ed may  be  garnished  with  thin  slices  of 
lemon  in  halves  and  quarters. 


696.— MUTTON  CUTLETS— ANOTHER   WAY. 

Not  a  very  fat  neck,  take  off  the  scrag 
and  the  breast  bones,  leaving  the  re- 
mainder the  length  you  intend  the  cut- 
lets, then  ta&e  the  chine  bone  clean  off. 
then  the  skin  and  some  of  the  fat ;  you 
will  now  have  the  mutton  free  from 
bones  to  cut  your  cutlets ;  you  will  find 
you  can  cut  fourteen  'good  cutlets  from 
this  trimmed  neck  without  any  hacking ; 
beat  each  cutlet  with  your  beater,  trim 
them  neatly ;  be  sure  to  cut  out  the  pac- 
wax,  and  leave  a  little  fat  to  each  cutlet. 
If  for  gratin  or  bread  crumbed,  prepare 
some  chopped  parsley  and  shalot,  and 
bread-crumbs  ;  put  some  butter  to  melt  | 
in  a  stewpan,  a  little  of  the  parsley  and  ; 
shalot  and  some  yolk  of  egg,  mix  it  well  ; 
up  together ;  put  your  bread-crumbs  on 
a  sheet  of  paper,  add  to  it  a,  little  salt 
and  pepper ,  dip  each  cutlet  into  melted  j 
butter,  put  down  the  bread-crumbs  with  ! 


your  knife,  lay  them  on  a  buttered  saute- 
pan  until  wanted  to  fry. 

697.-CUTLETS  SAUT& 

Cut  your  neck  of  mutton  precisely  as 
for  the  crumbed  cutlets;  have  ready  a 
piece  of  butter  melted  in  your  saute-pan ; 
dip  each  cutlet  both  sides  in  the  butter ; 
when  required  fry  them  a  very  light 
color,  pepper  and  salt  them  ;  when  done 
take  them  up  to  drain  from  the  fat,  have 
some  good  glaze  melted,  and  glaze  each 
cutlet  both  sides ;  dish  them  round  with 
or  without  a  rim  of  mashed  potato. 

693.— MUTTON  CUTLETS— MAINTENON. 

Trim  the  cutlets  as  for  former  cutlets ; 
half  fry  them,  then  cover  them  with  fine 
herbs  and  bread-crumbs,  and  season  with 
pepper  and  salt.  Lay  all  to  cool ;  have 
some  fresh  parsley  to  add  to  the  already 
fried  herbs  and  shalot.  When  cool, 
spread  the  butter  and  herbs  thick  upon 
each  cutlet;  sprinkle  them  with  bread- 
crumbs ;  wrap  them  in  buttered  foolscap 
paper,  and  broil  them  over  a  slow  fire 
until  done. 

699.— BEAISED  CUTLETS. 

Trim  your  mutton  from  the  bones  as 
before ;  then  put  it  whole  into  a  good 
braise ;  let  it  stew  gently  until  tender ; 
put  it  aside  to  get  cold ;  when  so,  cut 
your  cutlets  as  thick  as  the  former ;  trim 
them  neatly,  make  them  hot  and  glaze 
them. 

TOO.— FILLET  OF  MUTTON. 

Choose  a  very  large  leg ;  cut  from  four 
to  five  inches  in  thickness  from  the  large 
end  of  the  leg ;  take  out  the  bone,  and  in 
its  place  put  a  highly  savory  forcemeat ; 
flour  and  roast  it  for  two  hours.  When 
doije,  it  may  be  sent  to  table  with  the 
same  accompaniments  as  a  fillet  of  veal, 


302 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


with  melted  butter  poured  over  it,  or  a 
rich  brown  gravy  and  red  currant  jelly. 

701.— FILLET  OF  MUTTON  STEWED. 

Cut  and  prepare  stuff  as  above,  flour 
and  brown  in  a  little  butter,  and  put  it 
into  a  stewpan  with  a  pint  and  a  half  of 
gravy  ;  with  it  a  small  bundle  of  sweet 
herbs,  two  or  three  small  onions,  or  eight 
or  ten  small  button  onions  peeled,  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  whole  black  pepper;  stew 
slowly  three  hours  and  a  half.  The  fillet 
may  be  salted,  and  being  half  roasted  may 
be  stewed  with  its  trimmings. 

702.— FILLETS  IN  MAKINADE. 

Cut  from  the  loins  of  mutton ;  pre- 
pare some  carrots,  turnips,  onions,  and 
celery,  thyme,  mace,  cloves,  and  whole  pep- 
per ;  cut  up  in  thin  slices ;  boil  a  little  vin- 
egar and  water,  put  your  fillets  in  a  deep 
dish,  pour  the  vinegar  over  the  roots  and 
mutton  when  cold ;  let  it  lie  all  night ; 
next  day  trim  neatly  and  braise  them ; 
take  them  out,  and  when  required  glaze 
them,  sauce  under  them. 

708.-BLANQUETTE  DE  MOUTON 

Is  generally  made  from  a  former  day's 
saddle  of  mutton ;  cutting  out  the  fillets, 
trimming  it  neatly,  you  will  be  able  to 
cut  clearly  pieces  the  size  of  a  shilling, 
which  you  will  put  into  some  good 
sauce,  you  may  then  put  two  or  three 
gherkins  into  it ;  this  is  dished  better  in 
a  tin. 

704-HAKICOT  OF  MUTTON. 

Cut  a  neck  or  loin  of  mutton  into  thin 
chops ;  flour  and  fry  them  brown  in  a 
small  quantity  of  butter ;  drain  them  on 
a  sieve ;  then  put  them  into  a  stewpan 
and  cover  them  with  gravy ;  add  a  carrot, 
two  leeks,  a  faggot  of  parsley  and  thyme ; 
two  or  three  blades  of  mace,  some  all- 
spice, a  whole  onion,  and  two  turnips ; 
stew  them  until  the  meat  is  tender  j  then 


takfc  out  the  chops,  strain  the  gravy,  and 
skim  off  all  the  fat ;  put  a  little  butter 
mixed  with  flour  into  the  stewpan ;  stir 
it  until  melted  and  made  quite  smooth, 
adding  the  gravy  by  degrees,  stirring  all 
the  time ;  then  put  in  the  chops,  with 
some  carrots  and  turnips  ready  blanched 
and  cut  into  pretty  shapes,  with  a  dozen 
silver  onions  whole,  and  also  half  boiled 
season  slightl}'  with  pepper  and  salt,  a 
very  little  soy,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  Tar- 
ragon vinegar;  stew  the  whole  gently 
for  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  and  serve  them 
while  quite  hot. 

705.— MUTTON  HAKICOT. 

Take  a  loin  of  mutton,  cut  it  into  small 
chops,  season  it  with  ground  pepper,  all- 
spice and  salt ;  let  it  stand  a  night,  and 
then  fry  it.  Have  good  gravy  well  sea- 
soned with  flour,  butter,  ketchup,  and 
pepper  if  necessary.  Boil  turnips  and 
carrots,  cut  them  small,,  and  add  to  the 
mutton,  stewed  in  the  gravy,  with  the 
yolks  of  hard  boiled  eggs  and  forcemeat 
balls.  Some  green  pickles  will  be  an  im- 
provement. 

706.— HAEICOT  MUTTON— ANOTHEE  WAT. 

Cut  into  chops  the  bes|  end  of  the 
neck  of  mutton ;  fry  them  a  light  brown 
in  fat  made  boiling-hot  before  the  chops 
are  put  into  it ;  some  pieces  cut  from  the 
neck  will  be  the  best,  dredge  them  with 
flour;  sprinkle  them  with  pepper  and 
salt,  put  in  a  stewpan  three  parts  of  a 
pint  of  water,  an  onion  stuck  with  cloves, 
parsley,  a  few  spring  onions,  and  a  bay- 
leaf;  stew  gently  till  the  meat  is  nearly 
done,  then  add  turnips  and  carrots  cut 
small;  fry  a  large  onion  cut  in  slices 
brown ;  add  it  to  the  gravy,  which  when 
just  done  must  be  thickened ;  take  out 
the  sweet  herbs  when  the  whole  has 
stewed  an  hour,  and  serve. 

707.— MUTTON  KEBOBBED. 

Take  all  the  fat  out  of  a  loin  of  mut 


MUTTON. 


303 


ton,  and  that  on  the  outside  also  if  very 
fat,  and  remove  the  skin ;  cut  it  into 
steaks  ;  mix  a  small  nutmeg  grated  with 
a  little  salt  and  pepper,  crumbs,  and 
herbs ;  dip  the  steaks  into  the  yolks  of 
three  eggs,  and  sprinkle  the  above  mix- 
ture all  over  them ;  then  place  the  steaks 
together  as  they  were  before  they  were 
cut  asunder,  tie  them,  and  fasten  them 
on  a  small  spit ;  roast  them  at  a  quick 
fire;  set  a  dish  under,  and  baste  them 
with  a  good  piece  of  butter  and  the 
liquor  that  comes*  from  the  meat,  but 
throw  some  more  of  the  above  seasoning 
over.  When  done  enough,  take  it  up, 
and  lay  it  in  a  dish ;  have  half  a  pint  of 
good  gravy  ready  besides  that  in  the  dish, 
and  put  into  it  two  spoonfuls  of  ketchup, 
and  rub  down  a  teaspoonful  of  flour  with 
it  ;  give  this  a  boil,  and  pour  it  over  the 
mutton,  but  first  skim  off  the  fat.  Mind 
to  keep  the  meat  hot,  till  the  gravy  is 
quite  ready. 


708.— HASHED  MUTTON. 

This  is  a  favorite  method  of  disposing 
of  the  cold  shoulder,  especially  if  it  should 
happen  to  be  underdone ;  cut'  it  into 
slices,  take  the  bones  (if  of  a  shoulder  or 
leg  break  them),  and  put  them  in  a  stew- 
pan  with  the  trimmings ;  cover  them 
with  water,  put  in  a  faggot  of  thyme,  pars- 
ley, whole  pepper,  allspice,  &c.,  cover 
down  and  simmer  for  three-quarters  of  an 
hour ;  while  the  bones,  &c.,  are  stewing, 
fry  an  onion  brown  in  a  little  butter  and 
flour ;  put  it  into  the  stewpan  with  the 
gravy,  stew  gently  twenty  minutes,  strain 
it,  lay  in  the  slices  of  mutton  in  the  stew- 
pan,  pour  over  them  the  strained  gravy  ; 
pour  in  a  spoonful  of  walnut  ketchup,  or 
any  suitable  preferred  sauce,  season  it, 
simmer  until  the  meat  is  hot  through, 
dish  and  serve. 

A  spoonful  of  curry  powder  is  some- 
times added,  and  is  always  a  palatable 
addition. 


709.— IEISH  STEW. 

Cut  a  neck  of  mutton  as  for  the  hari- 
cot ;  blanch  the  chops  in  water ;  take  and 
put  them  into  another  stewpan  with  four 
onions  cut  in  slices ;  put  to  it  a  little  of 
your  second  stock,  let  it  boil  a  quarter 
of  an  hour;  have  ready  some  potatoes 
pared ;  put  them  into  the  stewpan  with 
the  mutton,  with  salt  and  pepper;  as 
some  like  the  potatoes  whole  and  some 
mashed  as  to  thicken  the  stew,  you  must 
boil  them  accordingly ;  dish  the  meat 
round  and  the  vegetables  in  the  middle. 

710.— CHINA  CHILO. 

Mince  a  pint  basin  of  undressed  neck 
of  mutton  or  leg,  and  some  of  the  fat ; 
put  two  onions,  a  lettuce,  a  pint  of  green 
peas,  a  teaspoonful  of  pepper,  four  spoon- 
fuls of  water,  and  two  or  three  ounces  of 
clarified  butter  into  a  stewpan  closely 
covered ;  simmer  two  hours,  and  serve  in 
the  middle  of  a  dish  of  boiled  rice;  if 
cayenne  is  approved,  add  a*little. 

711.-CHINA  CHILO— ANOTHEE  WAY. 

Chop  very  fine  two  small  young  let- 
tuces, two  onions,  a  pint  of  green  peas, 
and  a  couple  of  young  cucumbers,  or  the 
fourth  of  a  pint  of  mushrooms ;  season 
with  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  pepper ;  mince  the  meat  of  a 
neck  of  mutton  uncooked,  and  mix  it  with 
the  vegetables  in  a  stewpan;  add  four 
table-spoonfuls  of  water  and  two  ounces 
of  butter,  clarified  will  be  proved  the 
best ;  let  them  well  amalgamate  over  a 
slow  fire ;  keep  them  stirred  for  fifteen 
minutes,  then  cover  down  close  and  sim- 
mer very  slowly  for  two  hours ;  serve  it 
in  the  centre  of  boiled  rice. 

712.-MINCED  MUTTON. 

Mince  dressed  meat  very  finely,  season 
it,  make  a  very  good  gravy,  warm  -the 
meat  up  in  it,  and  serve  with  fried  bread 
round  the  dish,  or  with  poached  eggs. 


304 


THE    PBACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


Or : — Mince  cold  leg  of  mutton  freed 
from  the  skin  and  fat,  warm  it  with  stew- 
ed cucumbers,  taking  care  that  it  does 
not  burn  after  the  meat  is  put  in. 

713.— AU  GEATIN,  OE  AS  SCALLOPS. 
Mince  dressed  mutton  with  a  very  little 
fat,  season  lightly  with  pepper  and  salt, 
and  put  into  scallop-shells  about  half  full. 
Then  put  potatoes  mashed  with  a  little 
milk,  and  a  very  small  bit  of  butter; 
smooth  with  a  spoon,  and  brown  in  a 
Dutch  oven. 

714— AS  EISSOLES. 

Enclose  the  minced  meat  in  a  paste  or 
browning  of  egg  and  crumbs  of  bread,  but 
season  it  as  if  for  forcemeat. 

715.— MUTTON  LIKE  VENISON. 

A  haunch  or  leg  will  be  the  most  ap- 
propriate. The  joint  should  be  hung  as 
long  as  it  can  be  with  safety,  and  dressed 
exactly  like  a  haunch  of  venison,  and 
served  with  the  same  sauces,  but  to  make 
the  taste  more  perfectly  resemble  that  of 
venison  it  should,  after  having  been  hung 
to  the  turn,  be  skinned,  and  laid  in  a 
pan  with  vinegar  and  water ;  two  parts 
of  the  former  to  one  of  the  latter,  not 
enough  to  cover  it;  put  in  a  fagot  of 
herbs,  a  clove  of  garlic,  one  or  two  bay- 
leaves,  a  spoonful  of  whole  pepper,  and  a 
couple  of  onions  cut  in  slices  ;  let  it  soak 
three  days,  dry  it  well,  hang  it  for  a  day 
and  roast  as  venison.  It  may  also  be  put 
into  a  stewpan  w  ith  half  a  pint  of  gravy, 
and  simmered  four  hours;  serve  with 
venison  sauce. 

716.— TO  MAKE  A  SCOTCH  HAGGIS. 

Take  the  stomach  of  a  sheep.  The 
washing  and  cleaning  is  of  more  conse- 
quence than  all,  as  it  will  be  of  a  bad  color 
and  a  bad  taste  if  not  well  cleansed; 
when  clean,  turn  it  inside  out,  then  let  it 
lie  for  a  day  or  two  in  salt  and  water. 
Blanch  the  liver,  lights,  and  heart  of  the 


sheep,  lay  them  in  cold  water,  chop  all 
very  fine ;  the  liver  you  had  better  grate, 
chop  a  pound  of  the  suet  very  fine,  dry 
in  the  oven  a  pound  of  oatmeal ;  mix  all 
this  well  together,  season  with  pepper  and 
salt,  a  little  chopped  parsley,  and  a  little 
chopped  onion;  then  sew  up  the  bag; 
before  you  finish  sewing  it,  add  a  few 
spoonfuls  of  good  white  stock ;  put  it  in 
a  stewpan  with  a  drainer;  boil  it  in 
water,  keeping  it  well  covered  all  the 
time,  prick  it  all  over  with  a  small  lard- 
ing pin  to  keep  it  from  bursting ;  it  will 
take  several  hours  to  boil ;  be  careful  hi 
taking  it  up,  and  let  your  dish  be  large 
enough. 

717.— EOGNON  DE  MOUTON  A  LA  FEAN- 


Take  half  a  dozen  fine  mutton  kidneys, 
clear  them  of  fat  and  skin,  and  cut  them 
into  thin  slices ;  powder  them  immedi- 
ately with  sweet  herbs  in  fine  powder, 
parsley  which  has  been  chopped,  dried, 
and  powdered,  cayenne,  and  salt:  put 
into  a  stewpan  two  ounces  of  clarified 
butter  or  fresh  if  the  former  is  not  in 
reach,  *put  in  the  slices  of  kidney,  fry 
them ;  they  will  brown  very  quickly,  they 
must  be  done  on  both  sides ;  dredge  flour 
over  them,  moistpn  with  lemon  juice ;  in 
five  minutes  the  kidneys  will  be  done ; 
lift  them  out  into  a  very  hot  dish  around 
which  are  laid  sippets  fried ;  pour  into 
the  gravy  two  glasses  of  champagne,  give 
it  a  boil,  pour  it  over  the  kidneys,  and 
serve. 

It  may  here  be  stated  that  the  French 
cooks  vary  constantly  the  herbs  which 
they  employ,  according  to  any  known 
preference  for  the  palate  of  those  for 
whom  they  cook.  Various  kinds  of 
wines  and  sauces  may  be  used  for  flavor- 
ing, and  this  is  constantly  done  as  much 
for  variety  and  the  ability  of  giving  a  new 
name  to  a  dish,  which  is  varied  only  in 
some  Fuch  small  feature. 


MUTTON. 


.305 


718.— LOIN  OF  MUTTON  LIKE  VENISON. 
(French  Eeceipt.) 

Remove  the  skin  from  the  joint  and 
bone  it^and  do  it  neatly ;  lay  it  in  a  stew- 
pan  with  about  a  pint  of  weak  broth,  an 
onion  stuck  with  cloves,  two  glasses  of 
red  wine,  and  a  teaspoonful  of  p}rrolig- 
neous  acid ;  let  it  boil,  put  in  a  bundle  of 
sweet  herbs ;  stew,  turning  frequently ; 
add  as  ^it  progresses  a  little  gravy ;  some 
very  good  may  be  made  from  the  bones  ; 
it  will  take  from  two  hours  and  a  half  to 
three  hours. 

719.— TO  DEESS  MUTTON  HAMS. 

Soak  the  ham  for  five  or  six  hours  in 
cold  spring  water,  unless  it  has  only  re- 
cently been  cured,  then  one  hour  will 
suffice ;  put  it  into  cold  water,  boil  gently  ; 
it  will  be  done  in  two  hours  and  a  half. 
It  is  eaten  cold. 

720.— MUTTON  KIDNEYS  BEOILED. 

Skin  and  spit  without  parting  asunder, 
skewer  them  through  the  outer  edge  and 
keep  them  flat,  lay  the  opened  sides  first 
to  the  fire,  which  should  be  clear  and 
brisk,  in  four  minutes  turn  them,  sprinkle 
with  salt  and  cayenne,  and  when  done, 
which  will  be  in  three  minutes  afterwards, 
'  take  them  from  the  fire,  put  a  piece  of 
butter  inside  them,  squeeze  some  lemon 
juice  over  them,  and  serve  as  hot  as  pos- 
sible. 

r 

721.— SHEEP'S  TONGUES  STEWED. 

Put  them  into  cold  water  and  let  them 
boil ;  when  they  are  sufficiently  tender  to 
remove  the  skin  easily,  take  them  out, 
split  them,  and  lay  them  in  a  stewpan 
with  enough  good  gravy  to  cover  them. 
Chop  parsley,  and  mushroom,  with  a  lit- 
tle eschalot  finely,  work  a  lump  of  but- 
ter with  it,  add  pepper  and  salt  to  flavor ; 
stew  them  in  the  gravy  untifthe  tongues 
are  tender,  lay  them  in  a  dish,  strain  the 


gravy  and  pour  it  hot  over  the  tongues, 
and  serve. 

722— C6TELETTES  1  LA  MAINTENON. 
(Ude's  Eeceipt.) 

Pare  the  chops  neatly.  Chop  fine 
some  sweet  herbs,  such  as  parsley,  sha-. 
lots,  and  mushrooms,  which  fry  in  a  little 
butter.  When  they  are  done,  fry  the 
chops  a  little  in  that  seasoning  till  nearly 
done,  let  them  cool  in  the  herbs ;  then 
have  some  strong  foolscap  paper  cut  in 
the  form  of  the  cutlet,  put  some  of  the 
herbs  and  ham  chopped  very  fine,  if  you 
have  it  ready  in  the  larder ;  put  the  cut- 
lets in  and  a  little  of  the  herbs  over 
them  ;  wrap  them  in  the  paper,  and  broil 
them  on  a  very  clean  gridiron  and  very 
equal  fire  till  of  a  good  color ;  serve  them 
very  hot,  and  a  little  Italian  sauce  sepa- 
rate. Mind  to  wipe  the  grease  with  a 
clean  towel  before  serving  them. 

728.— MUTTON  CUTLETS  WITH  SOUBISE, 
OE  ONION  SAUCE. 

Take  a  neck  of  mutton,  and  cut  the 
chops  one  by  •  one  without  flattening 
them ;  cut  off  some  of  the  flat  bone  at  the 
extremity  of  the  chops.  Put  them  into 
a  stewpan  with  all  the  parings,  together 
with  the  parings  of  the  onions  to  make 
the  soubise.  Season  the  whole  well  with 
carrots,  a  bunch  of  parsley,  and  green 
onions,  salt,  and  a  very  small  quantity 
of  spice,  &c. ;  throw  in  four  or  five  spoon- 
fuls of  good  broth  to  braize  them.  When 
done,  drain  them,  and  let  them  cool. 
Strain  the  liquor  through  a  silk  sieve. 
Then  reduce  it  to  a  glaze.  Next  pare  the 
chops  nicely,  and  put  them  with  the 
glaze.  This  being  completed,  dish  them 
miroton  way,  and  pour  the  soubise  or 
onion  sauce  into  the  middle. 

Some  persons  take  two  necks  of  mut- 
t6n,  cut  two  bones  to  each  chop,  lard 
them  with  bacon,  and  braize  them  as 
above ;  but  mutton,  being  in  general  fat, 
is  better  without  being  larded.  With 


306 


THE  PRACTICAL  HOUSEKEEPER. 


regard  to  the  two  bones,  you  must  take 
care  not  to  let  them  be  too  thick  ;  if  they 
are  too  thick  you  cannot  dish  them  well. 

724.— ANOTHER,  AND  A  MUCH  BETTER 
METHOD  OF  PREPARING  CUTLETS  A  LA 
80UBISE. 

Cut  the  mutton  chops  a  little  thicker 
than  when  you  wish  to  broil  them.  Pare 
them  nicely,  and  put  them  into  a  stew- 
pan,  where  the)'  may  all  lie  flat.  Put  an 
onion  or  two,  a  few  carrots,  a  little  salt, 
a  bundle  of  parsley  and  green  onions  sea- 
soned, four  or  five  spoonfuls  of  good  con- 
somme, and  sweat  the  whole  till  it  is  en- 
tirely done.  Then  take  out  the  roots, 
put  in  a  little  glaze,  and  reduce  over  a 
large  fire.  When  entirely  boiled  down 
to  a  glaze,  take  them  off  the  fire  for  a  few 
minutes,  let  the  cutlets  settle  in  the" 
glaze,  take  out  the  trimmings  and  vege- 
tables, turn  over  the  cutlets  in  the  glaze, 
and  take  out  the  grease  or  fat,  lay  them 
on  a  cover  to  drain  the  fat,  and  serve  up 
before  they  can  get  dry. — This  method  is 
preferable  to  the  other.  You  must  not 
in  either  case  lard  your  chops  with  bacon. 
These  cutlets  may  be  served  up  with  all 
sorts  of  puree  of  vegetables. 

725.— FOR  C6TELETTES  DE  MOUTON  EN 
RAGOUT. 

Take  off  all  the  fat  from  the  cutlets, 
dredge  the  meat  with  flour,  and  put  them 
into  a  stewpan  with  the  fat  melted,  a  bun- 
dle of  sweet  herbs,  and  two  shalots  minced ; 
let  them  brown,  then  strain  the  gravy, 
add  a  glass  of  wine,  and  one  of  good 
sauce ;  thicken,  if  necessary,  with  a  little 
roux,  and  let  the  whole  stew  until  very 
tender. 

726.— TO  DRESS  C6TELETTES  DE  MOUTON 
A  LA  POLONAISE. 

Remove  all  the  fat,  put  the  meat  into 
a  covered  stewpan,  with  a  carrot  and  a 
turnip  sliced,  two  onions,  a  bundle  of 
sweet  herbs,  a  little  pepper  and  salt;  and 


enough  broth  to  moisten  the  whole ;  let 
it  stew  very  gently  until  the  meat  is  per- 
fectly done,  then  take  it  out,  strain  the 
gravy,  put  it  over  a  brisk  fire,  and  Deduce 
it  to  a  glaze  ;  then  cover  the  cutlets  with 
the  glaze,  and  serve  them  up  with  tomato- 
sauce,  or  a  vegetable  puree  of  any  kind. 


Mutton  Cutlets. 

72T.— FOR  COTELETTES  1  LA  MAINTENON. 

Cut  and  trim  cutlets  from  a  neck  or 
loin  of  mutton ;  chop  very  finely  a  quan- 
tity of  parsley,  a  little  thyme,  and  a  sha- 
lot ;  put  them  with  butter  into  a  stew- 
pan, and  fry  the  chops  a  little  ;  then  take 
out  the  chops ;  allow  them  to  cool ;  add  to 
the  herbs  some  fresh  parsley  chopped  and 
a  few  crumbs  of  bread,  and  seasoning : 
spread  this  over  the  cutlets  with  a  knife, 
wrap  them  in  buttered  paper,  and  broil 
them  over  a  slow  fire.  Serve  a  sauce 
piquant  in  a  boat. 

Or: — Cut  them  handsomely  from  the 
loin  or  back  end  of  the  neck ;  half  fry 
them,  and  then  cover  them  with  herbs, 
crumbs  of  bread,  and  seasoning ;  lay  this 
on  very  thickly,  and  put  them  into  a 
stewpan  with  a  little  gravy ;  stewxmtil 
tender,  then  wrap  them  in  writing-paper, 
and  finish  them  on  the  gridiron. 

728.  -COTELETTES  AUX  HARICOTS  VERTS. 

Having  dressed  French  beans  as  usual, 
drain  the  water  from  them,  and  simmer 
them  with  pepper  and  salt  in  a  good  piece 
of  butter.  A  few  minutes  before  serving 
add  the  beaten  yolk  of  an  egg,  and  shake 
the  pan  over  the  fire ;  but  they  must  not 


MUTTON. 


307 


boil.  In  the  mean  time  have  ready  three 
mutton  cutlets,  neatly  trimmed,  seasoned 
with  pepper,  salt,  and  a  few  crumbs,  and 
nicely  fried ;  and  serve  them  on  the 
French  beans. 

729.— SCEAGS  OF  MUTTON  1  LA  8AINTE 
MENEHOULD. 

Order  the  narrow  part  ot  a  neck  of 
small  mutton  to  be  cut  off  before  the 
sheep  be  divided ;  which  leaves  the  two 
scrags  united.  Soak  in  warm  water,  then 
hang  it  two  days ;  lay  it  in  a  ste»wpot, 
with  slices  of  fat  bacon  over  and  under, 
two  pounds  of  scrag  of  veal,  three  large 
carrots,  three  onions,  a  large  bunch  of 
sweet  herbs,  two  bay-leaves,  and  a  table- 
spoonful  of  whole  white  pepper ;  cover  the 
whole  with  beef  broth,  and  simmer  four 
hours.  Drain  the  gravy  from  the  meat, 
which  cover  on  all  sides  with  crumbs  of 
bread  mixed  with  pepper  and  salt,  and 
brown  it  with  a  salamander.  In  the 
mean  time  boil  the  gravy,  uncovered, 
very  quickly,  having  strained  it  first,  and 
serve  in  the  dish ;  add  salt.  Serve  in  the 
dish  endive,  tomato  sauce,  or  stewed 
spinach. 

780.— MUTTON  KIDNEYS. 

Split,  pepper,  and  broil  them,  broiling 
the  cut  side  first,  which  will  make  a  cup 
for  the  gravy  when  the  outer  part  is 
turned  to  the  fire.  Chop  some  parsley 
very  fine,  mix  it  well  with  a  little  fresh 
butter,  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  pepper  and 
salt,  and  put  a  little  on  each.  A  sheep's 
heart  may  be  split  open,  and  broiled  in 
the  same  way. 

With  a  very  sharp  knife  cut  mutton 
kidneys  in  the  thinnest  possible  slices ; 
flour,  and  fry  quickly  till  they  are  quite 
crisp.  While  frying,  add  pepper  and 
salt.  Serve  them  in  a  good  gravy,  to 
which  a  bit  of  garlic  has  given  a  very 
slight  flavor. 

r31.— ROGNONS,  AU  VIN  DE  CHAMPAGNE. 

Slice  or  mince  them,  and  fry  them  with 


a  little  chopped  parsley  and  eschalot  until 
they  become  of  a  light  brown,  seasoning 
them  with  pepper  and  salt;  then  dust 
them  with  flour,  moisten  them  with  a 
little  strong  gravy  and  a  glass  of  Cham- 
pagne, and  let  them  stew  for  a  few  mo- 
ments. 

782.— SHEEP'S  TAILS  AND  KIDNEYS. 

Cut  the  tails,  boil  them  for  fifteen 
minutes,  then  put  them  into  a  stewpan 
with  half  a  pint  of  gravy,  an  onion  stuck 
with  cloves,  a  little  salt,  and  cayenne 
pepper.  Stew  till  tender,  strain  the 
gravy,  thicken  it  with  flour  and  butter, 
and  add  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon.  Boil 
until  the  whole  is  very  smooth,  broil 
half  a  dozen  kidneys,  and  place  them  in 
the  middle  of  a  dish  with  the  tails  and 
sauce  round. 

These  are  the  most  tasty  modes,  but 
kidneys,  when  meant  for  breakfast,  are 
usually  broiled  upon  the  gridiron,  with- 
out parsley  or  lemon;  being  only  split 
open,  well  peppered,  and  a  bit  of  butter 
put  upon  them  when  broiled.  They 
must  not  be  much  done,  and  may  be 
brought  to  the  table  in  less  than  ten 
minutes.  If  not  quite  hot,  they  are  not 
worth  eating. 

783.— MUTTON  EUMPS  AND  KIDNEYS. 

Stew  six  rumps  in  some  good  mutton- 
gravy  half  an  hour ;  then  take  them  up, 
and  let  them  stand  to  cool.  Clear  the 
gravy  from  the  fat ;  and  put  into  it  four 
ounces  of  boiled  rice,  an  onion  stuck 
with  cloves,  and  a  blade  of  mace;  boil 
them  till  the  rice  is  thick.  Wash  the 
rumps  with  yolks  of  eggs  well  beaten ; 
and  strew  over  them  crumbs  of  bread,  a 
little  pepper  and  salt,  chopped  parsley 
and  thyme,  and  grated  lemon-peel.  Fry 
in  butter  of  a  fine  brown.  While  the 
rumps  are  stewing  lard  the  kidneys,  and 
put  them  to  roast  in  a  Dutch  oven. 
When  the  rumps  are  fried,  the  grease 
must  be  drained  before  they  are  put  on 


308 


THE    PEACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


the  dish,  and  the  pan  being  cleared  like- 
wise from  the  fat,  warm  the  rice  in  it. 
Lay  the  latter  on  the  dish ;  the  rumps 
put  round  on  the  rice,  the  narrow  ends 
towards  the  middle,  and  the  kidneys  be- 
tween. Garnish  with  hard  eggs  cut  in 
half,  the  white  being  left  on;  or  with 
different-colored  pickles. 

784— SHEEP'S  HEAD.— (English.) 
Though  this  may  be  seen  in  every  part 
of  London  inhabited  by  the  working 
classes,  and  may  be  procured  ready 
cooked,  I  prefer  always  to  prepare  it  at 
home,  and  very  good  it  is.  Choose  a 
fine  one.  as  fat  as  possible,  and  put  it 
into  a  gallon  of  water  to  disgorge  for  two 
hours ;  wash  it  well,  saw  it  in  two  from 
the  top,  take  out  the  brain,  cut  away 
part  of  the  uncovered  part  of  the  skull, 
and  also  the  ends  of  the  jaws ;  wash  it 
well,  put  into  the  stewpan,  with  two 
onions,  one  carrot,  two  turnips  cut  in 
slices,  a  little  celery,  four  cloves,  a  bou- 
quet of  four  sprigs  of  thyme,  a  bay-leaf, 
one  ounce  of  salt,  a  quarter  of  an  ounce 
of  pepper,  three  quarts  of  water ;  set  on 
the  fire ;  when  near  boiling,  add  half  a 
teacupful  of  pearl  or  Scotch  barley ;  let 
it  simmer  for  three  hours,  or  till  tender, 
which  try  with  a  fork ;  take  out  vege- 
tables, cut  in  dice,  remove  bouquet,  skim 
off  the  fat,  and  pour  all  into  tureen. 
Or,  lay  the  head  on  a  dish,  and  serve 
with  either  onion  sauce  over,  parsley  and 
butter,  or  any  sharp  sauce ;  or  egg  and 
bread-crumb  it  over,  put  it  in  an  oven  for 
half  an  hour  till  getting  a  nice  yellow 
color,  and  serve  with  sharp  sauce  under. 
Or,  with  the  brain,  thus :  having  boiled 
the  brain  for  ten  minutes  in  a  little  vine- 
gar, salt,  and  water,  cut  it  in  pieces,  warm 
it  in  parsley  and  butter,  season  it  a  lit- 
tle, and  put  it  under  the  head  and  serve. 

735.— SHEEP'S  HEADS,  HEAETS,  TAILS, 
AND  TONGUES. 

A  great  variety  of   excellent  dishes 
may  be  made  from  a  sheep's  h$ad,  which 


in  India,  where  veal  is  not  so  easily  pro- 
curable, answers  all  the  purposes  for 
mock  turtle,  rolled  head,  rich  hash,  or 
ragout :  the  bones  make  excellent  jelly, 
either  savory  or  sweet.  Parboil  the 
head;  cut  the  meat  from  the  bone;  stew 
the  former  in  a  little  of  the  liquor  until 
quite  tender ;  send  it  to  table  with  a  glass 
of  wine  in  the  sauce,  forcemeat-balls  and 
brain-cakes  for  garnish ;  or  roll  up  the 
pieces  seasoned  in  the  inside  with  a  thick 
covering  of  chopped  herbs  well  seasoned ; 
brush  the  outside  with  yolk  of  egg; 
dredge  it  with  bread-crumbs  ;  fry  it ; 
and  send  to  table  with  a  rich  gravy  made 
of  the  bones  and  pickles  warmed  up  in  it. 
Take  a  sheep's  heart  and  stuff  it 
throughout,  using  a  considerable  quan- 
tity of  chopped  bacon  in  the  stuffing ; 
half  boil  it,  and  when  cooled  a  little  rub 
it  over  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  wrap  it 
in  paste  in  the  shape  of  a  cone.  Rub  the 
paste  over  with  the  yolk  of  an  egg,  and 
strew  vermicelli  loosely  over  it.  Set  it 
with  the  broad  end  downwards,  and 
bake  it  in  the  oven.  When  baked,  send 
it  to  table  with  gravy  sauce. 

786.— SHEEP'S  TAILS  AND  TONGUES. 

Take  three  tails  and  three  tongues,  cut 
the  tails  in  half  and  split  the  tongues. 
Stew  them  gently  for  three  hours  in  as 
much  water  as  will  cover  them,  adding 
three  spoonfuls  of  vinegar,  three  onions, 
a  teaspoonful  of  mixed  spices,  and  one  of 
salt :  these  ingredients  to  be  put  in  after 
the  pot  has  been  skimmed.  When  the 
tails,  &c.,  are  very  tender,  take  them  out, 
score  them,  dip  them  in  drawn  butter, 
roll  them  in  grated  bread-crumbs,  and  let 
them  lie  for  a  few  minutes,  then  put  on 
more  butter  with  a  knife,  and  additional 
bread-crumbs,  which  latter  should  be 
slightly  seasoned ;  brown  them  before  the 
fire.  Strain  the  gravy,  enrich  it  with 
butter,  squeeze  lemon  juice  over  the 
tongues  and  tails,  and  serve  them  in  the 
gravy. 


MUTTON. 


309 


737.— SHEEFS  TEOTTEES. 

Boil  the  trotters,  or  rather  stew  them 
gently,  for  several  hours,  until  the  bones 
will  come  out.  The  liquor  they  are 
boiled  in  will  make  excellent  stock  or 
jelly.  Take  out  the  bones  without  in- 
jury to  the  skin,  stuff  them  with  a  fine 
forcemeat ;  stew  them  for  half  an  hour  in 
some  of  the  stock,  which  must  be  well 
flavored  with  onion,  seasoning,  and  a  lit- 
tle sauce;  take  out  the  trotters,  strain 
the  sauce,  reduce  it  to  a  glaze,  and  brush 
it  over  the  feet.  Serve  with  any  stewed 
vegetable. 

Or : — Prepare  them  in  the  same  way, 
and  dip  them  in  a  batter  and  fry  them. 
The  paste,  or  batter,  for  frying,  is  best 
made  thus :  mix  four  spoonfuls  of  flour 
with  one  of  olive-oil,  and  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  beer  to  make  it  of  the  proper 
thickness ;  then  add  the  whites  of  two 
eggs  well  beaten  and  a  little  salt.  Serve 
with  tomato  sauce. 

Or : — Simply  boil  them,  and  eat  them 
cold  with  oil  and  vinegar. 

788.— SHEEP'S  TEOTTEES.-(Soyer.) 

I  get  a  dozen  of  them  from  the  tripe- 
butcher,  all  cleaned  and  ready,  and  beg 
of  him  to  extract  the  long  bone  from 
them.  I  put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
beef  or  mutton-suet  in  a  stewpan,  with 
two  onions  and  one  carrot  sliced,  two 
bay-leaves,  two  sprigs  of  thyme,  one 
ounce  of  salt,  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of 
pepper;  put  on  the  fire,  and  cook  five 
minutes ;  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour, 
and  stir  it  round ;  add  two  quarts  and  a 
half  of  water,  then  put  in  the  feet,  stir 
till  boiling ;  simmer  for  nearly  three 
hours,  or  until  the  feet  are  perfectly 
tender ;  when  done,  take  them  out,  and 
lay  on  a  sieve ;  take  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  fresh  butter,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
the  same  of  flour,  a  quarter  of  one  of 
pepper,  a  little  grated  nutmeg,  the  juice 
of  a  lemon;  mix  all  these  well  together 
20 


on  a  plate  with  the  back  of  a  spoon ;  put 
the  feet  with  a  gill  of  milk  in  a  stewpao 
on  the  fire ;  when  very  hot,  put  in  the 
butter,  stir  continually  till  melted,  hav- 
ing previously  well  mixed  two  yolks  of 
eggs  with  five  table-spoonfuls  of  milk, 
which  put  in  the  stewpan ;  keep  moving 
the  pan  round  over  the  fire  continually 
for  one  minute,  serve  in  a  very  hot  dish 
with  croutons  of  fried  bread  cut  in  tri- 
angular pieces  round  the  dish.  The 
stock  may  be  used  for  any  puree  or  thick 
soup. 

T89.— FEENCH  EAGOUT  OP  MUTTON. 

Take  about  two  pounds  of  the  scrag 
of  the  neck,  breast,  chump,  or  any  other 
part,  with  as  little  fat  as  possible,  cut  it 
into  pieces  of  about  two  inches  square, 
put  into  a  pan  two  ounces  of  butter,  or 
good  fat ;  when  melted,  add  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  flour,  stir  with  a  wooden 
spoon  till  forming  a  brownish  roux,  add 
the  meat,  and  stir  it  round  for  twenty 
minutes ;  add  a  little  water,  but  not 
enough  to  cover  the  meat;  one  salt- 
spoonful  of  pepper,  four  ditto  of  salt,  and 
four  ditto  of  sugar,  a  bouquet  of  six 
sprigs  of  parsley,  stir  till  boiling,  set  it 
to  simmer.  Having  previously  peeled  a 
few  turnips,  cut  in  large  dice  one  inch 
square,  about  thirty  pieces,  put  some  fat 
in  the  fryingpan,  and  fry  the  turnips 
until  rather  brown,  take  them  out,  and 
put  them  in  a  stewpan  with  the  meat 
when  it  is  done,  which  will  be  in  about 
one  hour  from  the  time  it  was  put  on ; 
when  ready  to  serve,  take  out  the  meat 
and  turnips,  squeeze  the  bouquet,  which 
throw  away,  skim  off  the  fat ;  if  too 
thick,  add  a  little  broth  or  water ;  or,  if 
too  thin,  boil  it  a  little  more,  dish  it  up 
by  placing  the  pieces  in  a  circle  and  the 
turnips  in  the  centre,  sauce  over,  and 
serve  very  hot — (if  not,  it  is  spoiled.) 
|  For  those  who  like  it,  a  small  piece  of 
|  scraped  garlic  may  be  added.  Onions, 


310 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


carrots,  peas,  &c.,  may  be  used  in  place 
of  the  turnips. 

This  is  a  very  favorite  dish  in  France  ; 
I  learnt  it  from  an  old  French  emigre, 
who  used  to  visit  us  about  ten  years 
since.  When  I  have  company,  I  use  the 
chops  of  the  neck,  dress  them  in  a  crown, 
placing  the  vegetables  in  the  centre ;  I 
find  them  very  much  liked.  I  have  at 
some  houses  partaken  of  harico-mutton 
which  has  been  tolerably  good,  but 
nothing  in  flavor  to  this  plan.  If  there 
is  any  left,  it  is  good  warmed  again,  or 
even  cold. 

740.— IRISH  STEW. 

Cut  up  about  two  pounds  of  the  neck 
of  the  mutton  into  small  cutlets,  which 
put  into  a  proper  sized  stewpan  with 
some  of  the  fat  of  the  mutton ;  season  it 
with  half  a  table-spoonful  of  salt,  a 
quarter  of  an  ounce  of  pepper,  the  same 
of  sugar,  six  middle-sized  onions,  a  quart 
of  water ;  set  them  to  boil  and  simmer 
for  half  an  hour,  then  add  six  middling- 
sized  potatoes,  cut  them  in  halves  or 
quarters,  stir'  it  together,  and  let  it  stew 
gently  for  about  one  hour  longer ;  if  too 
fast,  remove  it  from  the  top,  but  if  well 
done  the  potatoes  will  absorb  all  of  it, 
and  eat  very  delicate ;  any  other  part  of 
the  mutton  may  be  served  in  the  same 
way. 

741.— TURESICUS. 

Mince  very  fine  part  of  a  cold  boiled 
leg  of  mutton,  and  mix  it  with  rice,  sea- 
son it  very  high  with  black  pepper,  add 
salt,  and  make  it  into  balls  the  size  of  a 
cabbage-leaf. 

Tie  each  ball  separately  in  a  cabbage- 
leaf;  boil  it  about  half  an  hour,  and 
Berve  immediately,  very  hot. 

742.— A  SCOTCH  HAGGIS, 

Take  the  stomach  of  a  sheep  ;  wash  it 
with  cold  water  until  perfectly  clean; 


then  turn  it  inside  out,  scald  it,  scrape  it 
with  a  knife  quickly,  and  then  put  it  into 
cold  salt  and  water  till  wanted.  Take 
the  liver,  lights,  and  heart,  and  parboil 
them ;  grate  the  liver,  and  mince  the 
other  parts  quite  fine ;  mince  also  half  a 
pound  of  suet,  three  or  four  onions, 
toast  half  a  pound  of  round  oatmeal 
cakes  before  the  fire,  and  pound  them 
into  powder,  which  is  to  be  thickly  sprin- 
kled over  the  mince;  mix  all  well  to- 
gether; season  with  pepper  and  salt; 
then  fill  the  bag,  and  before  sewing  it  up 
put  in  a  large  teacupful  of  any  kind  of 
strong  broth  or  gravy.  Put  the  bag, 
neatly  sewed  up,  in  a  pan  with  enough 
of  boiling  water  to  cover  it,  anok  a  small 
plate  under  it ;  prick  over  with  a  needle 
to  prevent  it  bursting,  and  let  it  boil  four 
or  five  hours,  keeping  the  haggis  con- 
stantly covered  with  boiling  water. 

743.— THE  ENGLISH  MODE  IS 

To  mince  the  heart,  the  tongue,  the 
kidneys,  and  a  part  of  the  liver  of  the 
sheep,  with  a  third  of  its  weight  in  fat 
bacon,  two  anchovies  chopped  small,  and 
the  crumb  of  a  penny-roll  grated,  a  salt- 
spoonful  of  grated  lemon/peel,  pepper, 
salt,  two  eggs  beaten,  and  a  glass  of  wine ; 
mix  all  well  together ;  butter  and  mould ; 
put  in  the  mixture,  and  let  it  boil  for 
two  hours  :  or  it  may  be  boiled  in  a  veal 
caul. 

744.— A  CAMP  DISH. 

• 

Take  any  joint  of  mutton,  put  it  into 
a  pot  with  a  good  many  onions  cut  small, 
and  as  many  vegetables  as  can  be  obtain- 
ed to  add  to  it ;  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
vinegar,  five  of  port  wine  ;  season  it  with 
bla^k  and  red  pepper ;  add  a  spoonful  of 
flour,  and,  if  at  hand,  four  dessert-spoon- 
fuls of  Harvey's  sauce  and  essence  of 
anchovies.  Cover  the  meat  with  water, 
and  let  it  stew  one  and  a  half  hour ;  it 
!  should  be  stirred  frequently  to  prevent 


MUTTON. 


311 


it  from  burning,  as  there  should  be  only 
water  sufficient  to  cook  it.  Should  there 
be  a  steam  apparatus  do  not  add  the 
water.  This  is  an  excellent  dish  in  camp, 
and  it  also  suits  a  family  where  there 
are  many  persons  to  be  fed  from  one 
ioint.  A  fowl  may  be  added  to  or  sub- 
stituted for  the  mutton. 

745.— SHEEP'S  TONGUES  WITH  TURNIPS. 

Take  eight  tongues  of  an  equal  sizej 
let  them  disgorge  in  a  little  water  and 
flour,  and  next  blanch  them.  When 
thoroughly  blanched,  put  them  in  a  stew- 
pan,  to  braise  them.  In  case  you  should 
have  a  braise  of  beef,  or  of  mutton,  or  any 
others,  they  will  all  equally  answer  the 
purpose  for  sheep's  tongues ;  when  they 
are  done,  peel  them  and  cut  them  in  two. 
Dish  them  miroton  way,  and  cover  them 
with  the  sauce  of  the  haricot,  the  turnips 
of  course  being  put  in  the  middle.  It  is 
customary  in  French  cookery  to  call  any 
thing  made  with  turnips  haricot. 

746.— THE  SAME  WITH  CABBAGE  LETTUCES. 

The  tongues  are  to  be  braised  as  above, 
the  same  as  those  you  wish  to  cook  in  any 
way  whatever.  Take  a  dozen  and  a  half 
of  good  cabbage-lettuces,  wash  them  very 
clean  and  blanch  them.  When  they  are 
cold  and  you  have  squeezed  all  the  water 
out  of  them,  open  them  in  two,  take  off 
the  stalks,  powder  a  little  salt  and  pep- 
per over  them ;  then  shut  them  and  give 
them  a  good  form  ;  mark  them  in  a  stew- 
pan,  surrounded  with  layers  of  bacon; 
moisten  them  with  a  little  braise,  or  any 
thing  to  give  them  a  good  taste ;  other- 
wise take  the  pot-top,  with  a  little  broth 
and  salt.  When  the  lettuces  are  quite 
done,  drain  them,  and  squeeze  them  in  a 
cloth  to  extract  the  grease.  Dish  them 
in  rosettes,  a  tongue,  a  lettuce,  and  so  on 
successively.  Put  a  large  tongue  in  the 
middle,  to  improve  the  look  of  the  rosette. 
Another  time  cut  the  tongues  in  two,  and 
dish  them  miroton  way,  that  is,  one  half 


of  a  tongue,  and  lettuce,  alternately.  In 
this  case,  put  a  jardiniere  in  the  middle, 
and  cover  both  the  tongues  and  the  let- 
tuce with  the  Espagnole  (Spanish  sauce.) 
This  is  likewise  a  common  dish  in  a  first 
course. 

747.— MUSETTE  OP  MUTTON  WITH  ENDIVE. 
(MUTTON  BAGPIPE  WITH  ENDIVE.) 

Take  a  shoulder  of  mutton  that  has 
been  kept  for  some  while ;  bone  it  with- 
out taking  off  the  thin  skin  that  is  found 
near  the  joint ;  powder  it  over  with  a  lit- 
tle pepper  and  salt.  Then  pass  a  piece 
of  packthread  round,  as  tailors  do  round 
a  button,  fasten  the  packthread,  and 
mould  the  shoulder  of  mutton  quite 
round.  You  must  preserve  the  knuckle 
so  that  it  may  resemble  a  bagpipe. 
Braise  it,  and  season  it  well.  After 
having  drained  and  glazed  it,  send  it  up 
with  either  endive  or  sorrel. 

N.  B.  It  may  also  be  stuffed  and  lard- 
ed, and  a  floweret  larded  in  the  top  part, 
and  sent  up  with  white  beans  a  la  Lyon- 
naise.  This  is  also  a  common  dish. 


Meat  Safe,  of  wood  and  wjre 

LAMB. 

74a-FORE-QUARTER  OF  LAMB. 

This  is  the  favorite  and  indeed  the  best 
joint.  Do  not  put  it  too  near  the  fire  at 
first,  when  it  gets  heated  baste  it  well; 
the  fire  should  be  quick,  clear,  but  not 


312 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


fierce ;  the  usual  weight  of  a  fore-quarter 
is  between  nine  and  eleven  pounds,  it 
will  take  two  hours ;  when  it  is  done, 
separate  the  shoulder  from  the  ribs,  but 
before  it  is  quite  taken  off  lay  under  a 
large  lump  of  butter,  squeeze  a  lemon, 
and  season  with  pepper  and  salt ;  let  it 
remain  long  enough  to  quite  melt  the 
butter,  then  remove  the  shoulder  and 
lay  it  on  another  dish. 


Fore-Quarter  of  Lamb. 

T49.— SADDLE  OF  LAMB. 

Roast  it  quickly,  but  be  very  careful 
neither  to  scorch  it  nor  to  take  it  from 
the  fire  until  it  is  done ;  baste  with  the 
fat  and  gravy  which  fall  from  it,  and  in 
an  hour  and  three-quarters  it  will  be 
done,  unless  larger  than  common,  and 
then  it  will  take  two  feours ;  serve  with 
mint  and  cucumber  sauce. 

750.— TO  ROAST  A  LEG  OF  LAMB. 

The  rules  laid  down  for  roasting  mut- 
ton must  be  scrupulously  observed  with 
respect  to  lamb  j  let  it  roast  gradually, 
and  commence  a  distance  from  the  fire ;  a 
leg  of  five  pounds  will  take  an  hour  and 
a  quarter,  one  of  six  pounds  will  take  an 
hour  and  a  half. 

751. -TO  BOIL  A  LEG  OF  LAMB. 

Put  it  in  sufficient  clear  cold  soft  wa- 
ter to  cover  it.  let  it  remain  half  an  hour, 
a  table-spoonful  of  vinegar  or  half  a  hand- 
ful of  salt  may  be  thrown  in  ;  put  it  into 
a  thin  white  cloth  which  ha^  been  floured, 
and  boil  it  in  enough  water  to  cover  it.  A 
good-sized  bundle  of  sweet  herbs  may  be 


thrown  into  the  saucepan ;  if  six  pounds 
it  will  be  done  in  an  hour  and  a  half;  serva 
with  spinach  or  French  beans  ;  if  sent  to 
table  cold  lay  handsome  sprigs  of  parsley 
about  it  tastefully ;  it  may,  while  hot,  be 
garnished  with  parsley,  with  thin  slices 
of  lemon  laid  round  the  dish. 

752.— A  SHOULDER  OF  LAMB 

Will  be  found  best  cooked  when  done 
with  the  fore-quarter,  but  if  roasted  sin- 
gly will  take  an  hour. 

758.— SHOULDER  OF  LAMB  LARDED. 
Cut  your  lardons  small,  of  fine  white 
fat  bacon,  cover  them  with  pounded  mixed 
spices,  cayenne  pepper,  and  salt ;  bone 
the  shoulder  of  lamb,  lard  the  under  side, 
roll  the  joint,  and  bind  it  with  narrow 
white  tape ;  braise  it,  and  when  done 
glaze  it.  Serve  it  on  mushroom  sauce  ; 
any  sauce  applicable  to  lamb  will  serve 
except  mint  sauce,  which  should  not  b« 
eaten  with  this  dish. 

754— TO  GRILL  A  LOIN  OF  LAMB. 

Boil  half  an  hour,  take  it  out  and  score 
it  like  pork,  brush  it  all  over  with  well 
beaten  yolk  of  eggs,  and  powder  over  it 
bread-crumbs  mixed  with  minced  parsley, 
put  it  into  an  American  oven  and  roast 
it  until  brown  ;  serve  with  melted  butter 
and  lemon  pickle,  or  tomato  sauce,  the 
last  especially,  if  cold.  A  shoulder  and 
breast  may  be  dressed  in  the  same  man- 
ner. 

755.— SHOULDER  OF  LAMB  FORCED  AND 
BRAISED. 

Take  out  the  bone  from  the  shoulder ; 
you  must  be  very  particular  and  careful 
in  removing  the  blade  bone  that  you  do 
not  cut  a  hole  through  the  skin ;  when 
you  have  done  it  fill  up  the  vacancy  with 
some  good  veal  forcemeat,  cover  it  with 
fat  bacon  or  ham ;  then  put  it  into  a  good 
braise  and  let  it  boil  gentl}r  for  about  an 
hour,  when  required  glaze  it  well  j  you 


LAMB. 


313 


can  make  it  after  you  have  put  in  the 
forcemeat  and  sewed  up  the  cut  part, 
either  as  a  shoulder  of  lamb,  or  form  it  into 
a  swan  by  adding  the  shank  bone  for  a 
neck,  and  form  the  beak  or  bill  with 
paste ;  if  plain,  put  a  paper  ruffle  or  orna- 
mented silver  skewer ;  the  sauce  as  may 
be  approved  of,  as  peas,  or  spinach,  or 
puree,  turnips,  or  French  beans,  or  truf- 
fles, or  mushrooms. 

756.-STEWED  LOIN  OP  LAMB. 

The  loin  may  be  stewed  whole  or  in 
steaks ;  in  the  former  the  flap  being  se- 
cured by  a  skewer,  is  put  into  a  stewpan, 
with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  and 
covered  down  close ;  let  it  simmer  one 
hour,  then  turn  it,  let  it  simmer  again  for 
an  hour  and  a  quarter,  and  then  have 
ready  some  rich  brown  gravy  hot,  lift  out 
the  meat,  pour  the  gravy  over  it,  and 
send  it  to  table  with  mint  sauce,  a  lettuce, 
and  a  few  radishes  and  spring  onions. 

757.— NECK  OF  LAMB  A  LA  JAEDINIEEE. 

Plain  roast  the  neck,  as  you  would  that 
of  mutton ;  and  whilst  it  is  roasting,  cut 
one  middle-sized  carrot  in  small  dice,  the 
same  quantity  of  turnip,  and  thirty  but- 
ton onions ;  wash  all  in  cold  water,  put 
them  in  a  small  stewpan,  with  one  ounce 
of  butter  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  sugar, 
place  on  the  fire  till  no  liquid  remains  in 
the  stewpan ;  add  to  it  a  gill  of  brown 
sauce,  half  a  one  of  broth,  add  a  small 
bouquet  of  parsley  and  bay-leaf;  after 
once  boiling,  set  it  to  simmer  on  the  cor- 
ner of  the  stove,  skim  off  all  the  fat; 
when  ready,  taste  if  very  palatable ;  it 
must  be  a  nice  brown  color,  and  the 
sauce  lightly  adhere  to  the  back  of  the 
spoon  ;  serve  on  the  dish,  place  the  neck 
over;  white  sauce  maybe  used  instead  of 
brown,  only  add  a  spoonful  of  liaison 
when  ready  to  serve.  The  sauce  is 
equally  good  with  almost  any  kind  of 
meat,  game,  and  poultry ;  it  will  often  be 


referred  to,  therefore  be  particular  in 
making  it ;  you  can  shape  the  vegetables 
ia  twenty  different  ways,  by  using  either 
green  peas,  French  beans,  or  Brussels 
sprouts;  sprue-grass  may  be  added, 
when  in  season,  but  should  be  boiled 
separately,  and  added  just  previous  to 
serving. 

758.— SADDLE  OF  LAMB,  EUSSIAN  FASH- 
ION. 

Roast  a  small  saddle  of  lamb,  keeping 
it  pale;  having  had  it  covered  with 
paper,  take  ten  good-sized  boiled  pota- 
toes, mash  them  with  about  two  ounces 
of  butter,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  quarter 
ditto  of  pepper,  a  table-spoonful  of  chopped 
parsley,  and  a  little  grated  nutmeg ;  mix 
all  well  together  with  a  fork,  adding  half 
a  gill  of  milk  and  one  egg ;  when  cold, 
roll  them  into  a  long  shape  the  size  of 
plover's  eggs,  egg  and  bread-crumb  twice, 
and  fry  light  colored ;  dress  the  saddle, 
surround  it  with  the  potatoes,  make  a 
sauce  of  melted  butter  and  maitre  d'hdtel 
butter,  put  in  it,  and  pour  it  round,  and 
serve.  All  joints  of  lamb  can  be  dressed 
thus. 

759.— LEG  OE  SHOULDEE  OF  LAMB  WITH 
PEAS. 

These  must  be  plain  roasted;  when 
done,  serve  with  peas  in  the  bottom  of 
the  dish. 

760.— LEG  OE  SHOULDEE  WITH  FEENCH 
BEANS. 

Plain  roast  as  before ;  prepare  beans  as 
directed. 

761.— BOILED  LEG  OF  LAMB  WITH 
SPINACH. 

Procure  a  very  small  leg,  and  cut  the 
end  of  the  knuckle-bone,  tie  it  up  in  a 
cloth  and  place  it  in  cold  water,  with  two 
ounces  of  salt;  boil  it  gently  according  to 
size ;  when  done,  remove  the  cloth,  and 
dish  it  up  with  spinach  under  it,  pre- 
pared as  directed.  (See  VEGETABLES.) 


314 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


762.— SHOULDER  OF  LAMB  BRAISED. 

Take  the  blade  bone  from  a  shoulder  of 
lamb,  and  have  ready  ten  long  strips  of 
fat  bacon,  which  season  rather  highly 
with  pepper,  salt,  and  a  teaspoonful  of 
chopped  parsley ;  place  the  pieces,  one 
after  the  other,  in  your  larding  needle, 
which  draw  quickly  through  the  fleshy 
part  of  the  shoulder,  leaving  the  bacon  in 
the  meat ;  after  having  used  all  the 
bacon,  roll  the  meat  round,  and  tie  it  up 
with  a  piece  of  string ;  then  put  it  into  a 
stewpan  containing  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  butter,  over  a  slow  fire,  stirring  it  oc- 
casionally until  of  a  light  golden  color, 
pour  in  a  quart  of  water  or  broth,  and 
add  forty  button  onions  and  a  bunch  of 
parsley  ;  let  simmer  very  slowly  until  the 
onions  are  quite  tender,  then  take  up  the 
meat,  pull  off  the  string,  and  dress  it 
upon  a  dish  with  the  onions  round  ;  take 
the  parsley  out  of  the  liquor,  carefully 
skim  off  all  the  fat,  and  reduce  it  until 
forming  a  thinnish  glaze,  when  pour  it 
over  the  meat  and  serve.  Mushrooms 
may  be  added  ten  minutes  before  sending 
to  table. 

768.— BREAST  OF  LAMB  BRAISED,  BROILED. 

Saw  off  the  breast  from  the  ribs  of 
lamb,  leaving  the  neck  of  sufficient  size 
to  roast,  or  for  cutlets;  then  put  two 
onions,  half  a  carrot,  and  the  same  of 
turnip,  cut  into  thin  slices,  in  a  stewpan 
with  two  bay-leaves,  a  few  sprigs  of  pars- 
ley and  thyme,  half  an  ounce  of  salt,  and 
three  pints  of  water ;  lay  in  the  breast, 
which  let  simmer  until  tender,  and  the 
bones  leave  with  facility;  take  it  from 
the  stewpan,  pull  out  all  the  bones,  and 
press  it  between  two  dishes  ;  when  cold, 
season  with  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  egg 
and  bread-crumb  it  lightly  over,  and 
broil  gently  (over  a  moderate  fire)  of  a 
nice  yellowish  color,  turning  it  very  care- 
fully; when  sufficiently  browned  upon 
one  side,  serve  with  plain  gravy  in  the 
dish,  and  mint  sauce  separately,  or  with 


stewed  peas  or  any  other  vegetable  sauce  j 
tomato  sauce  is  likewise  very  good  serv- 
ed with  it. 

764.— LAMB'S  HEAD. 

Parboil  the  head,  rub  it  over  with  yolk 
of  eggs,  cover  it  thickly  with  chopped 
herbs,  crumbs  of  bread,  and  clarified  but- 
ter, and  put  it  into  a  Dutch  oven  before 
the  fire.  Mince  the  heart  and  the  liver 
very  finely,  and  stew  them  in  a  little 
good  gravy,  adding  a  spoonful  of  lemon- 
pickle  ;  make  some  forcemeat-balls-  and 
brain-cakes,  and  fry  them;  place  the 
mince  in  the  dish  with  the  head  upon  it, 
and  garnish  with  the  balls,  brain-cakes, 
and  lemon  sliced,  or  pickles. 

765.-LAMB'S  FRY. 

Take  about  a  pound  and  boil  for  ten 
minutes  in  half  a  gallon  of  water,  take  it 
out  and  dry  on  a  cloth ;  have  some  fresh 
crumbs,  mix  with  them  half  a  spoonful 
of  chopped  parsley,  salt,  pepper;  egg 
the  fry  lightly  with  a  paste-brush,  dip  it 
in  the  crumbs,  fry  for  five  minutt  s,  serve 
very  hot  on  a  clean  napkin  in  a  dish,  with 
fried  parsley  over. 

766.— LAMB'S  HEAD  WITH  HOLLANDAISE. 

If  you  want  it  very  white,  make  stock 
as  for  sheep's  feet,  put  it  to  stew,  when 
done  lay  on  dish  with  about  twelve  new 
potatoes  (boiled)  round  it,  pour  over 
some  cream-sauce,  and  serve. 

767.— LAMB'S  HEAD  WITH  BRAIN  OR 
LIVER. 

Blanch  the  brain  or  liver,  and  mince 
them  as  for  sheep's  head,  introducing 
only  the  yolk  of  an  egg;  mix  with  a 
little  milk,  stir  in  quickly,  add  a  table- 
spoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  the  juice  ot 
half  a  lemon,  lay  it  on  the  dish  with  the 
head  over,  and  serve. 

768.— TO  BONE  A  QUARTER  OF  LAMB. 

Take  the  fore  quarter,  remove  the 
shoulder  and  take  out  the  bone ;  stuff  it 


LAMB. 


315 


with  fine  forcemeat,  and  skewer  it  in  a 
handsome  shape.  Braise  it  with  two 
ounces  of  butter,  add  a  teacupful  of 
water,  stirring  the  braise  until  the  gravy 
is  drawn.  Then  cut  the  brisket  into 
pieces,  and  stew  them  in  white  gravy ; 
thicken  it  with  cream  and  eggs  so  that  it 
shall  be  very  white ;  cut  the  long  bones 
into  chops  and  fry  them ;  thicken  the 
gravy  of  the  braise,  add  to  it  haricots, 
minced  truffles,  or  any  thing  else  of  vege- 
table in  season.  Place  the  shoulder  in 
the  centre  of  a  dish  with  its  own  sauce, 
lay  the  brisket  covered  with  white  sauce 
round  it,  and  place  the  fried  chops  at  the 


769.— LAMB  A  L'ESPAGNOLE. 

An  entire  lamb  is  frequently  roasted  in 
the  Peninsula,  without  any  other  prepa- 
ration than  merely  skinning  it,  taking  out 
the  fry,  and  cutting  off  the  feet.  It  is 
then,  however,  extremely  young — not 
more  than  perhaps  six  weeks  or  two 
months  old;  the  bones  eat  like  gristle, 
and  the  meat  is  singularly  delicate.  It  is 
sometimes,  but  only  rarely,  stuffed  with 
bread  and  sweet  herbs,  and  served  with 
bread-sauce ;  but  more  frequently  eaten 
with  lemon-juice. 

7TO.— AU  PASCAL. 

May  be  a  little  older,  and  is  also  roast- 
ed whole,  but  boned  from  the  neck  up  to 
the  shoulders,  and  the  legs  fixed  into  the 
body,  which  is  then  covered  with  slices 
of  bacon,  kept  on  with  small  skewers,  or 
tied  with  twine ;  all,  however,  being  re- 
moved when  the  meat  is  nearly  done. 
Both  should  be  placed  in  a  cradle-spit, 
and  will  take  about  two  hours  in  roasting. 

T71.-TO  FBICASSEE  LAMB-STONES   WITH- 
OUT ANY  ADDITION. 

Skin,  wash,  and  parboil,  and  then  cut 
them  in  half,  dry  and  flour  them  ;  fry  of 
a  beautiful  brown  in  hog's  lard.  Serve 
with  the  following  sauce :  thicken  some 
veal  gravy  with  a  bit  of  flour  and  butter, 


and  then  add  to  it  a  slice  of  lemon,  a 
large  spoonful  of  mushroom  ketchup,  a 
teaspoonful  of  lemon-pickle,  a  grate  of 
nutmeg,  and  the  yolk  of  an  egg  beaten 
well  hi  two  large  spoonfuls  of  thick 
cream.  Put  this  over  the  fire,  and  stir  it 
well  till  it  is  hot  and  looks  white :  do  not 
let  it.  boil,  or  it  will  curdle.  Then  put  hi 
the  fry,  and  shake  it  about  for  a  minute 
or  two.  Serve  hi  a  very  hot  dish. 

772.— TO  STEW  A  BBEAST  OP  LAMB. 

Cut  it  into  pieces,  pepper  and  salt  well, 
stew  in  sufficient  gravy  to  cover  the 
meat  until  tender,  then  thicken  the  sauce, 
pour  in  a  glass  of  sherry,  serve  on  a  dish 
of  stewed  mushrooms. 

778.— CHEVAUX-DE-FBISE  LAMB. 

Get  two  necks  of  lamb  of  the  same 
size,  take  off  the  chine -bone,  not  leaving 
a  particle  of  bone  adhering  to  the  ribs, 
or  it  cannot  be  carved  clean  down  be- 
tween the  bones  when  at  table ;  blanch 
them  a  few  minutes,  put  them  to  cool, 
then  scrape  about  one  inch  down  from 
the  ends  of  the  ribs  between  each  bone, 
the  skin,  and  fat ;  then  put  the  bones  to 
meet  regularly,  and  put  one  between  the 
other,  which  will  form  a  chevaux-de-frise ; 
braise  them  the  same  as  the  former ; 
when  done,  glaze  the  fat  and  meat  but 
not  the  white  rib  bones :  any  of  the  sauces 
named  or  cucumbers. 

774.— CHEVAUX-DE-FBISE  WITH  LAMB 
SWEETBBEADS. 

Do  the  same  as  before  ;  when  it  is  done 
and  glazed,  have  ready  some  good  lamb 
sweetbreads,  about  six  larded  ones  and 
glazed,  put  them  on  the  top  between  the 
bones,  when  the  two  necks  are  put  to- 
gether. 

775.— BLANQUETTE  D'AGNEAU  A  LA  PBO- 
VENCALE. 

Of  the  best  end  of  the  brisket  take 


316 


THE  PRACTICAL  HOUSEKEEPER. 


two  or  three  pounds,  cut  it  into  dice  of 
four  inches,  rinse  them  in  clear  water, 
wipe  them  with  a  cloth,  and  flour  them ; 
take  two  ounces  of  the  fat  of  boiled 
bacon,  five  of  fresh  butter,  chop  some 
parsley,  and  boil  ten  minutes  ;  put  in  the 
lamb  dice,  cut  up  an  onion  small,  squeeze 
in  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  and  season 
with  pepper  and  salt;  let  it  simmer 
gradually  for  two  hours ;  beat  up  the 
yolk  of  three  eggs,  and  add  them  to  the 
gravy ;  keep  the  pan  moving  about  the 
fire  for  three  minutes  :  dish  and  serve. 


776.— LAMB  CHOPS. 

Lamb  chops  and  lamb  cutlets  are  cook- 
ed in  the  same  manner  as  mutton  chops 
and  cutlets,  but  require  more  care  in  the 
cooking ;  they  are  sent  to  table  with  va- 
rious garnishes,  and  arranged  in  many 
forms,  frequently  accompanied  with  a 
puree  of  vegetables,  or  ranged  round  a 
pyramid  of  mashed  potatoes ;  the  most 
simple  manner  is*  to  garnish  with  crisped 
parsley. 

777.— ANOTHER. 

Take  a  loin  of  lamb,  cut  chops  from  it 
half  an  inch  thick,  retaining  the  kidney 
in  its  place ;  dip  them  into  egg  and  bread- 
crumbs, fry  and  serve  with  fried  parsley. 

When  chops  are  made  from  a  breast  of 
lamb,  the  red  bone  at  the  edge  of  the 
breast  should  be  cut  off,  and  the  breast 
parboiled  in  water  or  broth,  with  a  sliced 
carrot  and  two  or  three  onions,  before  it 
is  divided  into  cutlets,  which  is  done  by 
cutting  between  every  second  or  third 
bone,  and  preparing  them,  in  every  re- 
spect, as  the  last. 

If  brown,  season  them  with  pepper, 
salt,  nutmeg,  grated  lemon-peel,  and 
chopped  parsley ;  but  dip  them  first  into 
egg  j  fry  them  quickly.  Thicken  some 
gravy  with  a  little  flour  and  butter,  and 
add  to  it  a  spoonful  of  port  wine. 


778.— SWEETBEEADS. 

Two  good  throat  sweetbreads  or  three 
will  make  an  entree  ;  blanch  them  until 
fit  to  eat,  take  them  up  and  lay  them  in 
cold  water;  when  cold  dry  them  well, 
egg  and  bread-crumb  them  with  or 
without  herbs  ;  put  them  on  a  dish  and 
brown  them  in  the  oven;  mushroom 
sauce,  or  endives,  or  sorrel,  or  spinach, 
or  tomato  will  do  if  approved  of. 


7T9.— SWEETBREADS  FRICASSEED,  WHITE. 

Blanch,  and  cut  them  in  slices.  To  a 
pint  of  veal  gravy  put  a  thickening  of 
flour  and  butter,  a  table-spoonful  of 
cream,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  mushroom 
powder,  grated  lemon-peel  and  nutmeg, 
and  white  pepper,  to  flavor.  Stew  ten 
minutes,  add  the  sweetbreads,  let  them 
simmer  twenty  minutes.  Dish,  add  salt, 
thin  pieces  of  lemon-peel ;  mix  up,  and 
serve. 


780.— SWEETBREADS  FRICASSEED,  BROWN. 

Cut  them  in  small  pieces,  flour,  and 
fry  them.  When  a  good  brown,  pour 
over  them  a  pint  of  good  beef  gravy, 
highly  seasoned ;  stew  gently  until  the 
sweetbreads  are  tender.  Add  a  little 
flour  and  butter  to  thicken ;  add  truffles 
and  mushroom  ketchup  to  flavor ;  morels 
or  mushrooms  may  be  substituted,  or  all 
may  be  cooked  with  the  sweetbreads. 


781.— TO  STEW  SWEETBREADS— RIS  DE 
VEAU. 

Make  .a  forcemeat  of  the  tenderest 
parts  of  boiled  or  roast  fowl,  some  bacon, 
a  little  parsley  chopped,  a  little  thyme, 
lemon-peel,  the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  cay- 
enne pepper,  and  nutmeg.  Lay  the 
sweetbreads  in  a  pan,  upon  a  layer  of 
slices  of  veal,  cover  them  with  slices  of 
bacon,  put  in  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  an 
onion  sliced,  a  little  mace,  and  pepper 


LAMB. 


317 


and  salt.  Pour  in  a  quart  of  good  broth, 
and  stew  for  two  hours ;  remove  them, 
and  reduce  by  boiling  the  broth  to  a 
fourth :  heat  the  sweetbreads  in  it,  gar- 
nish with  lemon  in  slices. 

782.-SWEETBEEADS  LAEDED-1  LA 
DAUBE. 

Blanch  and  lard  them  with  bacon,  put 
them  into  a  stewpan  with  a  pint  of  veal 
broth ;  add  a  little  browning,  with  the 
juice  of  half  a  lemon.  Stew  until  ten- 
der ;  thicken  the  gravy  with  a  little  flour 
and  butter.  Lay  bunches  of  boiled  cel- 
ery round  the  dish  when  you  serve. 

783.— PIEDS  D'  AGNEAU. 

Have  six  lambs'  feet  scalded,  take  out 
the  shank-bone  very  carefully,  so  as  not 
to  cut  or  break  the  skin ;  soak  for  three 
hours  in  cold  water ;  put  them  in  a  stew- 
pan  with  cold  water  and  the  juice  of  two 
lemons  ;  let  it  boil  for  ten  minutes,  take 
out  the  feet,  throw  them  into  cold  water, 
cut.  off  the  bones  of  the  cleft  part  of  the 
foot,  and  remove  the  curl  of  hair  that 
lies  in  the  cleft.  Boil  very  gently  for 
three  or  more  hours  in  some  poclee 
(which  see),  to  keep  them  very  white. 
Serve  with  asparagus,  peas,  and  mush- 
room, or  white  cucumber  sauce. 

781— HEAET  SWEETBEEADS  LAEDED 
WITH  BACON  OE  TBUFFLES. 

The  same  quantity,  either  one  larded 
and  two  plain,  or  two  if  fine  larded  with 
bacon ;  when  blanched  for  two  or  three 
minutes,  put  them  in  a  small  dish  or 
stewpan,  with  a  little  stock  ;  cover  them 
over,  and  boil  them  either  in  the  oven  or 
over  the  fire  for  about  twenty  minutes ; 
take  them  up  and  glaze  them  several 
times,  keeping  them  hot;  lamb  sweet- 
breads will  take  eight  for  a  dish,  and  re- 
quire to  be  neatly  trimmed,  cutting  away 
the  pipe  and  dish  them  on  a  rim  of  force- 
meat or  mashed  potatoes,  or  spinach. 


785.— SWEETBEEADS  AS  CUTLETS. 

If  you  cannot  get  heart  sweetbreads, 
you  must  use  the  throat.  Blanch  them 
for  about  ten  minutes,  then  put  them  to 
cool  into  cold  water ;  take  them  out  and 
dry  them  in  a  cloth,  then  cut  longways, 
twelve  or  fourteen  pieces  for  cutlets, 
making  them  a  nice  shape ;  if  you  wish 
them  to  be  white  saute  cutlets,  you 
must  put  some  butter  or  lard  in  your 
cutlet-pan,  a  juice  of  lemon,  a  little  white 
pepper,  and  salt ;  do  not  color  them,  take 
them  up  and  lay  them  upon  white  paper 
to  soak  up  the  grease  from  them ;  dish 
them  round  upon  a  tureen,  pouring  the 
sauce  in  the  middle. 

786.— EOAST  SWEETBEEAD. 

Boil  sweetbreads,  either  heart  or 
throat,  trim  them  and  dry  them,  then 
egg  and  bread-crumb  them,  brown  them 
before  the  fire  or  in  the  oven ;  put  good 
clear  gravy  under  them,  and  water- 
cresses,  as  a  garnish. 

787.— SWEETBEEAD  CUTLETS— CEUMBED 
AU  GEATIN. 

Cut  the  sweetbreads  as  before,  a  nice 
thickness,  but  not  too  thick  ;  dry  them, 
then  egg  and  bread-crumb  them  as  you 
would  veal  or  other  cutlets;  use  any 
sauce  that  may  be  preferred. 

788.— LAMB'S  HEAD  AND  EMINCEES. 

Wash  well  a  lamb's  head  and  pluck, 
take  out  the  brains,  blanch  them  by 
themselves,  boil  the  head  and  pluck  for 
about  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  take  it  up  to 
cool,  take  out  the  tongue,  trim  the  two 
halves  of  the  head  neatly,  then  score  it, 
then  egg  and  bread-crumb  them  as  you 
would  cutlets,  and  brown  them  in  the 
oven  or  before  the  fire.  Cut  up  in  small 
dice  in  equal  quantities,  the  tongue,  liver, 
heart,  and  lights;  fry  in  a  stewpan  a 
little  chopped  parsley,  shalot,  and  mush- 
room if  you  have  it,  to  a  nice  light 


318 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


brown,  dry  up  the  butter  with  flour,  use 
some  good  second  stock  or  brown  sauce  ; 
season  with  lemon,  cayenne  pepper,  salt, 
and  a  dust  of  sugar ;  put  the  emincees 
under  the  head,  the  brains,  egg,  and 
bread-crumb  in  four  pieces  and  put 
round. 

789.— SHEEP  OK  LAMBS'  TEOTTEES. 

Get  a  dozen  or  two  of  trotters,  stew 
them  for  several  hours,  until  all  the 
bones  will  come  from  them ;  save  this 
liquor ;  do  not  break  the  skin  ;  stuff  them 
with  good  quenelles  or  forcemeat;  re- 
turn them  again  into  the  same  stock, 
boil  them  about  fifteen  minutes,  glaze 
them ;  soubise  sauce  or  tomato  sauce  is 
good  with  them,  or  you  may  fry  them 
with  butter. 


PORK. 

The  proportion  of  persons  who  are  fond 
of  pork  to  those  who  dislike  it,  are  as  a 
hundred  to  one,  and  yet  it  is  falsely  con- 
'sidered  a  vulgar  taste.  The  passion  for 
it  possessed  by  the  Chinese  has  been  il- 
lustrated by  many  tales,  and  when  in 
season,  the  frequency  of  its  appearance 
upon  a  homely  English  table  is.no  small 
proof  of  the  estimation  in  which  it  is 
held.  It  should  be  thoroughly'  cooked  to 
place  its  digestibility  beyond  a  doubt. 
In  roasting,  or  in  boiling,  ample  time 
should  be  allowed  for  the  joint.  Pork  is 
always  salted  for  boiling,  and  is  much 
liked  in  this  form.  When  sent  to  table 
roasted,  apple  sauce  should  in  every  case 
accompany  it. 

It  is  universally  used  in  every  family, 
and  little  used  for  company. 

The  griskin  and  the  sparerib  are  cer- 
tainly improved  by  being  powdered  with 
chopped  sage,  but  this  is  all  a  matter  of 


taste.  The  skin  of  the  leg  and  loin  must 
be  scored  previous  to  roasting ;  but  take 
care  to  preserve  the  skin,  or  crackling, 
of  a  fine  brown,  as  many  persons  look 
upon  it  to  be  the  best  part  of  the  pork  ; 
it  should  therefore  be  well  basted,  and 
guarded  from  -being  burned  by  a  sheet  of 
oiled  paper.  Send  both  up  with  a  glass 
of  vinegar  mixed  with  two  teaspoonfuls 
of  made  mustard  in  the  dish. 

If  you  kill  a  young  pig  of  four  or  five 
months,  take  off  the  skin  of  the  fore-quar- 
ter, roast  it,  and  serve  with  mint  sauce 
and  salad. 

790.— POKK  GEISKIN 

Is  usually  very  hard  ;  the  best  way  to 
prevent  this  is  to  put  it  into  as  much 
cold  water  as  will  cover  it,  and  let  it  boil 
up ;  then  instantly  take  it  off,  and  put  it 
into  a  Dutch  oven ;  a  very  few  minutes 
will  do  it.  Remember  to  rub  butter  over 
it,  and  then  flour  it,  before  you  put  it  to 
the  fire.  Lay  it  in  a  dish  on  melted  but- 
ter and  mustard.  It  should  be  seasoned 
with  pepper  and  salt  before  roasting. 

791.— SPAEEEIB 

Should  be  basted  with  a  very  little 
butter  and  a  little  flour,  and  then  sprin- 
kled with  dried  sage  crumbled. 

792.— TO  EOAST  A  SUCKING  PIG. 

A  sucking  pig,  which  should  be  about 
three  weeks  old,  must  be  dressed  as  soon 
after  being  killed  as  practicable.  When 
scalded  and  prepared  for  cooking,  lay  in 
the  belly  a  stuflSng  of  bread,  sage  and 
onions,  pepper  and  salt,  with  a  piece  of 
butter ;  sew  it  up,  rub  the  skin  of  the  pig 
with  butter,  skewer  the  legs  back,  that 
while  roasting,  the  inside  as  well  as  out- 
side of  the  pig  may  be  thoroughly  brown- 
ed ;  it  must  be  put  to  a  quick  fire,  but  at 
such  a  distance  as  to  roast  gradually,  and 
a  coating  of  flour  should  be  dredged  over 


PORK. 


319 


it  that  it  may  not  blister,  or  it  should 
not  be  left  a  minute  ;  if  floured,  when  the 
pig  is  done,  scrape  the  flour  off  with  a 
wooden,  or  very  blunt  knife,  and  rub  it 
with  a  buttered  cloth ;  cut  off  the  head, 
and  dividing  it  take  out  the  brains,  mix 
them  with  a  little  gravy  or  bread  sauce, 
divide  the  pig  in  half,  from  neck  to  tail, 
and  lay  each  inside  flat  upon  the"  dish,  so 
that  the  two  edges  of  the  back  touch; 
place  each  half  of  the  head  with  the  outer 
side  uppermost  at  each  end  of  the  dish, 
and  an  ear  on  each  side ;  the  gravy  should 
be  poured  in  the  dish  hot,  and  the  whole 
served  as  hot  as  possible  ;  as  a  matter  of 
convenience  it  is  often  sent  to  the  baker's 
oven ;  a  large  piece  of  butter  should  ac- 
company it  for  the  baker  to  baste  it  with, 
and  upon  its  return  it  should  be  cut  and 
served  as  above. 

The  gravy  may  be  heightened  in  its 
flaver  by  various  additions,  or  two  or 
three  sauces  and  gravies  may  be  served 
with  it,  such  as  veal  gravy  thickened  and 
flavored  with  wine,  lemon-juice,  and  cay- 
enne, and  also  bread  sauce  and  a  plain 
gravy;  this  may  be  a  matter  of  taste. 

It  is  usual  to  procure  the  pig  from  the 
butcher  ready  prepared  for  cooking,  but 
in  the  event  of  its  being  required  to  scald 
it  after  killing,  we  subjoin  the  following 
receipt. 

793.— TO  SCALD  A  SUCKING  PIG. 

Plunge  the  pig  into  cold  water  the  in- 
stant it  is  killed,  let  it  remain  five  min- 
utes, have  ready  pounded  resin,  and  rub 
well  with  it  over  the  skin,  plunge  it  into 
a  tub  of  scalding  water,  letting  it  remain 
only  half  a  minute,  remove  it,  and  imme- 
diately take  off  the  hair ;  lose  no  time,  if 
the  hair  should  not  come  freely  from 
some  parts,  rub  it  again  with  resin,  and 
put  it  into  the  scalding  water,  and  then 
remove  the  hair.  When  it  is  all  off  wash 
it  well  with  warm  water,  and  then  in 
cold,  changing  the  water  several  times 


that  no  flavor  of  the  resin  may  be  re- 
tained ;  cut  off  the  feet  at  the  £rst  joint, 
slit  down  the  belly,  and  remove  the  en- 
trails ;  put  aside  the  heart,  liver  and  lights, 
with  the  feet,  wash  again  inside  and  out 
the  pig,  dry  it  well,  and  keep  it  from  the 
air  by  covering  it  with  a  cloth. 

794.— TO  KOAST  A  PIG.  (Philadelphia.) 
Take  a  pig  not  more  than  a  month  old, 
remove  the  eyes  and  tongue,  trim  the 
ears,  cut  off  the  feet,  and  clean  it  thor- 
oughly. Wash  and  dry  it ;  rub  it  well, 
inside  and  outside,  with  sage  and  season- 
ing of  salt  and  cayenne  pepper.  Boil 
twenty  good  sized  potatoes,  mash  them 
while  hot,  add  butter,  a  little  milk,  and 
two  minced  onions  and  minced  sweet 
herbs,  with  seasoning  of  salt  and  pepper, 
and  bread-crumbs.  Stuff  the  pig,  and 
fasten  the  opening  with  skewers.  Roast 
(or  bake)  it  for  three  hours  in  a  pan, 
with  water  sufficient  to  form  the  gravy, 
thickened  with  a  little  flour,  and  well 
stirred.  Baste  the  pig,  while  roasting, 
with  oil  or  butter,  to  make  it  brown ;  and, 
if  necessary,  add  a  little  boiling  water  to 
the  gravy.  The  taste  of  a  pig  roasted 
before  the  fire  is  preferable  to  one  baked 
in  an  oven. 

Make  the  sauce  of  the  feet,  tongue, 
liver  and  heart.  The  tongue  must  be 
scalded  and  skinned,  then  boiled  with  the 
feet,  liver  and  heart;  and  when  done, 
minced  fine  and  seasoned,  with  the  addi- 
tion of  an  onion,  parsley  ai&  sweet  herbs. 
Boil  all  together ;  rub  a  little  butter  with 
flour,  and  stir  it  in  with  more  seasoning 
if  desired,  adding  a  glass  of  wine  when 
the  sauce  is  taken  up. 

795.— HIND-QUAETEE  OF  SUCKING  PIG. 

(Yorkshire  Fashion.) 

Cut  off  the  skin,  cover  with  paper,  and 
roast  before  a  quick  fire  about  three-quar- 
ters of  an  hour ;  ten  minutes  before  being 
ready,  remove  the  paper  and  baste  it; 
serve  with  gravy  under,  and  mint  sauce 
and  salad. 


320 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


796.— BOAST  PIG. 

Soak  *in  milk  some  light  bread,  boil 
some  sage  and  onions  in  plenty  of  water, 
strain  it  off  and  chop  it  all  very  fine,  press 
the  milk  from  the  bread,  and  then  mix 
the  sage  and  onion  with  pepper  and  salt ; 
in  the  bread  put  the  yolk  of  an  egg  to 
bind  it  a  little,  put  this  in  the  inside  of 
the  pig,  rub  the  pig  over  with  milk  and 
butter,  paper  it,  roast  it  a  beautiful  brown, 
cut  off  the  head  before  it  is  drawn  from 
the  spit,  and  likewise  cut  it  down  the 
back,  and  then  you  will  not  break  the 
skin ;  take  out  the  spit,  cut  off  the  ears 
from  the  head,  and  crack  the  bone  and 
take  out  the  brains,  put  them  in  a  stew- 
pan  with  all  the  inside  stuffing  and  a  lit- 
tle brown  sauce ;  dish  the  pig,  the  backs 
outside,  and  put  the  sauce  in  the  middle, 
and  some  in  a  boat,  the  ears  at  each  end. 

797.— A  LEG  OF  POEK  BOASTED. 

The  pork  should  be  young  and  dairy- 
fed  ;  score  the  skin  with  a  sharp  penknife, 
a  little  fresh  butter  is  sometimes  rubbed 
over  the  skin  to*  make  it  brown,  and 
crisp  without  blistering.  Chop  some 
sage  that  has  been  scalded,  very  fine,  add 
to  it  an  onion  parboiled,  mix  bread- 
crumbs and  a  small  portion  of  apple  chop- 
ped very  fine,  mix  all  together,  season 
with  pepper  and  salt,  make  an  incision, 
separating  the  skin  from  the  fat  in  the 
under  and  fillet  end  of  the  leg,  and  place 
the  stuffing  Uhere ;  the  time  of  roasting 
will  depend  upon  the  size  of  the  leg ;  serve 
up  with  apple  sauce. 

798.-A  LEG  OF  POBK  BOILED. 

After  having  been  salted,  it  should  be 
washed  in  clean  cold  water,  and  scraped 
thoroughly  white  and  clean  preparatory 
to  cooking ;  it  should  then  be  put  into  a 
floured  cloth  and  into  cold  water  on  the 
fire ;  when  the  rind  is"  quite  tender  the 
pork  will  be  done  ;  let  the  water  be  well 
skimmed,  and  serve  with  such  vegetables 


as  are  in  season ;  should  the  joint  be  large 
allow  a  quarter  of  an  hour  to  each  pound, 
with  an  additional  twenty  minutes  from 
the  time  it  boils. 


799.— LOIN  OF  POEK 

Should,  like  the  leg,  be  scored  before 
roasting,  and  well  jointed  to  make  the 
chops  separate  easily,  and  then  roast  as 
a  loin  of  mutton ;  or  it  may  be  put  into 
enough  water  to  covernt,  simmer  until  it 
is  nearly  done,  then  take  it  out,  take  the 
skin  off,  coat  it  well  with  yolk  of  egg 
and  bread-crumbs,  roast  for  about  a  quar- 
ter of  an  hour,  until  it  is  thoroughly 
done. 

800.— A  FILLET  OF  POEK  TO  EESEMBLE 
VEAL. 

The  fillet  should  be  cut  from  the  leg 
of  a  very  large  pig ;  remove  the  bone 
and  fill  the  orifice  with  veal  stuffing; 
roast  it  until  it  is  more  than  half  done, 
then  take  some  thin  broth  and  put  it  in 
the  stewpan,  put  in  the  pork,  stew  until 
it  is  thoroughly  done,  then  thicken  the 
gravy,  and  send  it  to  table  with  force- 
meat balls  and  lemon  cut  in  slices. 


801. -NECK  OF  POEK  EOLLED. 
Bone  it,  chop  sage  finely  ^  mix  it  with 
well  powdered  bread-crumbs,  cover  the 
meat  with  it  on  both  sides,  roll  the  pork, 
fasten  it  securely,  and  roast  it  gently. 

A   hand  and   spring  are  sometimes 
dressed  thus. 

* 

802.— SPAEEEIB  OF  POEK— EOAST. 

You  must  paper  and  joint  this  down 
the  middle,  and  sprinkle  it  with  a  little 
fine  sage  and  salt;  baste  and  flour  it 
well ;  apple  sauce  in  a  boat. 

803.— SPABEEIB. 

A  sparerib  will  take  two  hours  and  a 
half  to  roast  unless  very  large,  and  then 


PORK. 


321 


three  hours  will  be  required  to  cook  it 
thoroughly  ;  while  roasting  baste  with 
butter  and  dredge  with  flour ;  pound 
some  sage  and  powder  the  sparerib  with 
it  about  twenty  minutes  before  it  is  done ; 
a  pinch  of  salt  may  be  added. 

804.— CHINE  OF  POEK. 

This  joint  is  usually  sent  to  table  with 
turkey;  it  should  be  salted  for  about 
sixty  or  seventy  hours  previous  to  cook- 
ing^  and  then  be  roasted  ;  it  is  usually 
prepared  so. 

805.— LEG  OF  POEK. 

To  Bake. — Rub  it  well  over  with  salt 
and  saltpetre  mixed;  let  it  lie  five  or 
six  days  in  the  brine ;  then  hang  it  up 
to  smoke  for  five  or  six  days.  Take  off 
the  skin,  put  it  into  -an  earthen  dish,  and 
pour  a  little  red  wine  over  it ;  stick  a 
few  cloves  in  it,  or  beat  them  to  powder, 
and  rub  them  over  it.  When  it  has 
been  in  the  oven  a  short  time,  take  some 
hard  biscuit,  pounded  with  sugar,  and 
spread  it  all  over.  Serve  it  up  with 
gravy,  and  port  wine  sauce. 

To  Roast. — Choose  a  small  leg  of  fine 
young  pork:  cut  a  slit  in  the  knuckle 
with  a  sharp  knife,  .and  fill  the  space 
with  sage  and  onion  chopped,  and  a  little 
pepper  and  salt.  Score  the  skin  in  slices, 
but  do  not  cut  deeper  than  the  outer 
rind.  Put  it  at  first  a  good  distance 
from  the  fire,  but  baste  it  frequently  to 
prevent  its  scorching :  then,  when  about 
tlfree  parts  done,  rub  the  skin  rather 
firmly  with  raw  butter,  after  which  flour 
it  h'ghtly,  and  put  close  4  to  the  fire 
to  crisp  the  crackling.  Apple  sauce 
should  be  served  with  it. 

To  Boil. — Salt  it  eight  or  ten  days, 
turning  it  daily,  but  do  not  rub  it  after 
the  first.  When  it  is  to  be  dressed 
weigh  it :'  let  it  lie  half  an  hour  in  cold 


water  to  make  it  white :  allow  a  quarter 
of  an  hour  for  every  pound,  and  half 
an  hour  over,  from  the  time  it  boils  up : 
skim  it  as  soon  as  it  boils,  and  frequent- 
ly after,  but  do  not  boil  it  fast,  or  it  will 
be  hard.  Allow  water  enough.  Save 
some  of  the  water  to  make  pea-soup. 
Some  boil  it  in  a  cloth,  floured,  which 
gives  a  very  delicate  look,  but  destroys 
the  value  of  the  liquor  for  making  soup. 

806.— POEK  CUTLETS. 

Perhaps  few  things  of  a  simple  nature, 
and  served  in  a  plain  way,  are  better 
than  a  hot  pork  chop,  cut  about  half  an 
inch  thick,  trimmed  neatly,  and  broiled 
upon  the  gridiron. 

Or: — Fry  in  salad-oil;  serve  with 
sauce  Robert  or  gherkin  sauce,  the  gher- 
kins being  shred  fine  into  some  good 
thick  brown  gravy. 

Or  : — Marinade  the  cutlets  four  hours 
in  oil  with  an  onion  in  slices,  parsley, 
bay-leaf,  pepper,  and  salt ;  fry  them  in 
the  marinade  ;  serve  with  tomato  sauce. 

807.— MOCK  GOOSE,  OE  LEG  OF  POEK 
BOASTED  WITHOUT  THE  SKIN. 

Parboil  it,  and  take  off  the  skin ;  then 
put  it  down  to  roast ;  baste  it  with  but- 
ter, and  make  a  savory  powder  of  minced 
or  dried  sage,  ground  black  pepper,  salt, 
and  fine  bread-crumbs ;  add  a  little  very 
finely  minced  onion:  sprinkle  the  leg 
with  this  when  almost  roasted  ;  put  half 
a  pint  of  made  gravy  into  the  dish,  and 
garnish  the  dish  with  balls  of  this  dress- 
ing fried  or  broiled. — (Recommended  ~by 
a  Lady  of  New  York.) 

808.-CHINE  OF  POEK 

Generally  used  at  Christmas.  This, 
when  properly  cured,  is  mostly  used  cold ; 
boil  it  in  a  cloth,  with  a  sauce  of  red 
cabbage,  or  sauer  kraut  if  cold;  garnish 
with  parsley. 


322 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


809.— ALL  ROAST  PORKS. 

Be  sure  to  cut  the  skin  lengthways 
into  small  strips,  not  very  deep,  to  reach 
the  meat;  send  up  apple  sauce  to  all 
roast  porks. 

810.— TO  PICKLE  PORK 

Dredge  it  with  salt,  pounded  nearly  as 
fine  as  flour ;  place  upon  four  sticks  cross- 
ed upon  a  diy  cold  flag-stone,  or  in  an 
earthenware  dish ;  let  it  remain  to  drain 
from  eighteen  to  twenty-four  hours, 
then  rub  it  well  in  with  a  brine,  consist- 
ing of  one  pound  of  salt,  half  a  pound 
of  coarse  brown  sugar,  two  ounces  of 
saltpetre,  and  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of 
salt  prunel ;  the  last,  if  the  pork  is  deli- 
cate, may  be  omitted.  If  many  pieces 
are  being  salted,  put  them  into  a  tub  and 
pack  them  closely,  filling  up  the  inter- 
stices with  common  salt,  place  a  weight 
upon  the  top  to  keep  the  meat  down,  as 
well  as  to  prevent  the  admittance  of  any 
air,  and  when  taken  out  for  cooking, 
scrape  off  the  salt,  wash  the  pork  in 
several  waters,  or  place  it  under  a  water 
tap,  letting  the  water  run  upon  it  two 
or  three  minutes,  turning  it  occasionally, 
or  it  may  lie  in  soak  half  an  hour ;  it 
should  be  put  to  boil  in  cold  water,  and 
when  the  rind  is  tender  it  will  be  done 
enough. 

811.— BOILED  PORK  OF   ALL  KINDS. 

The  leg  you  must  skin  the  same  as 
ham,  and  dish  its  back  part  upwards, 
and  glaze  it ;  place  a  ruffle  at  the  knuckle ; 
sauce,  sauer  kraut,  or  stewed  red  cab- 
bage ;  peas  pudding  to  all  pork  when 
boiled. 

812.— PIG'S  CHEEK— A  HALF  ONE. 

Boil  and  trim  in  the  shape  of  ham. 
and  if  very  fat,  carve  it  as  a  cockle  shell ; 
glaze  it  well,  or  put  bread-crumbs  and 
brown  them :  sauce  as  before. 


818.— PIG'S  CHEEK.  (A  new  method.) 
Procure  a  pig's  cheek  nicely  pickled ; 
boil  well  until  it  feels  very  tender,  tie 
half  a  pint  of  split  peas  in  a  cloth,  and 
put  them  into  a  stewpan  of  boiling  water, 
boil  about  half  an  hour,  take  them  out, 
pass  through  a  hair  sieve,  put  them  into 
a  stewpan  with  an  ounce  of  butter,  a 
little  pepper  and  salt,  and  four  eggs,  stir 
them  over  the  fire  until  the  eggs  are 
partially  set,  then  spread  it  over  the 
pig's  cheek,  egg  with  a  paste-brush,  sprin- 
kle bread-crumbs  over,  place  in  the  oven 
ten  minutes,  brown  it  with  the  salaman- 
der, and  serve. 

814.— PIG'S  FACE  FOR  BREAKFAST. 

Cut  the  ears  off,  and  take  out  the 
tongue  and  brains,  then  lay  them  in  salt 
for  two  days,  take  them  out  of  that,  and 
then  use  the  ingredients  as  for  tongues, 
and  dry  them  the  same  as  hams. 

815.— PORK  CUTLETS. 

Cut  from  a  neck,  or  what  is  called  fore- 
loin  of  pork,  the  best  end,  trim  it  as  you 
do  lamb  or  mutton,  leaving  a  little  fat ; 
scrape  the  bone,  rub  or  chop  some  sage 
fine,  with  a  very  little  piece  of  shalot, 
mix  it  up  \vith  only  sufficient  bread- 
crumbs, put  black  pepper  und  salt  into 
the  crumbs,  herbs,  dish  each  cutlet  in 
clarified  butter  or  melted  lard,  press  the 
crumbs  well  upon  the  cutlets,  have  a 
sautepan  greased  with  lard,  lay  them 
into  it,  fry  them  a  nice  light  brown, 
take  them  up  and  dry  them  on  paper, 
dish  upon  mashed  potatoes,  use  sauoe 
Robert,  or  soubise,  or  tomato,  or  any 
other  to  taste. 

816.-POEK  CUTLETS. 

Cut  them  from  a  small  delicate  loin  of 
pork,  bone,  and  tririi  them  neatly,  fry 
them  a  light  lirown,  put  into  a  small 
stewpan  a  little  vinegar,  and  eschalot 
chopped  very  finely,  two  table-spoonfuls 


POKK. 


323 


of  tomato  sauce,  and  sufficient  brown 
gravy  to  make  it  tasty ;  stew  the  cutlets 
in  the  sauce  five  minutes,  and  send  them 
to  table  dished  handsomely  5  if  the  cut- 
lets are  broiled  they  may  be  dipped  in 
yolk  of  egg  and  bread-crumbs,  and  broil- 
ed over  a  clear  fire,  and  served  with  to- 
mato sauce,  or  sauce  Robert. 

817.— POEK  CHOPS  OE  8TEAK3. 
Cut  from  the  best  end  of  the  loin,  or 
from  the  chump  or  leg  if  steaks ;  re- 
move the  fat  and  skin,  turn  them  fre- 
quently and  quickly  while  broiling;  if 
your  gridiron  be  of  the  old  fashion,  it  is 
better  to  keep  it  aslant  on  the  fire,  the 
handle  being  the  lowest  part,  it  prevents 
very  much  of  the  fat  from  falling  into  the 
fire,  the  flare  of  which  is  apt  to  impart  a 
disagreeable  flavor  to  the  chops  ;  this  ob- 
servation applies  also  to  mutton  chops, 
and  will  be  found  useful  if  followed: 
sprinkle  them  with  salt  when  nearly 
done,  and  rub  with  a  little  fresh  butter 
previous  to  serving ;  if  for  a  side  dish  gar- 
nish with  crisped  parsley. 

818.-POEK  SAUSAGES. 

There  are  many  receipts  for  the  mak- 
ing of  pork  sausages.  The  peculiarity  in 
sausages  being  the  quantity  and  variety 
of  herbs  introduced,  the  prevalence  of 
some  particular  one  gives  the  flavor,  as 
well  as  the  peculiarity  to  each.  The 
presence  of  so  many  herbs  is,  however, 
not  always  considered  an  agreeable  fea- 
ture, and  many  palates  are  offended  at 
that  which  forms  to  others  the  great 
n^erit.  The  following  is  a  very  simple 
receipt. 

Take  of  the  fat  of  pork  one  pound,  that 
of  the  loin  of  a  large  richly  fed  pig,  or  the 
inward  fat  of  a  small  one.  Chop  it  fine- 
ly with  half  a  pound  of  lean  pork ;  add 
to  it  four  or  five  sage-leaves  finely  chop- 
ped, some  lemon  thyme  in  a  small  quan- 
tity, and  three  dessert-spoonfuls  of  crumb 
of  bread  powdered ;  be  careful  not  to  put 


too  much  of  the  latter,  as  it  tends  to 
turn  the  sausages  sour  if  kept.  Amalga- 
mate these  ingredients  well,  dust  on 
grated  nutmeg,  mace,  and  cloves  in  pow- 
der, and  finish  with  black  pepper  and 
salt,  being  sure  to  season  well ;  the  meat 
may  then  be  put  into  the  skins,  or  may 
be  put  in  jars  covered  down  from  the  air, 
to  be  used  for  rolls  or  stuffing,  or  any  re- 
quired purpose. 

All  skin  must  be  pared  from  the  fat 
before  chopping,  and  every  sinew  re- 
moved from  the  lean  pork,  as  well  as 
any  bone,  or  any  thing  which  may  im- 
pair the  taste  when  eaten. 

819.-SAUSAGES.    (Mrs.  Ellis.) 

Chop  fresh  pork  very  fine,  the  lean  and 
fat  together.  Then  fill  the  skins,  whicl*. 
should  be  previously  cleaned  thoroughly. 
A  little  flour  mixed  in  with  the  meat, 
tends  to  prevent  the  fat  from  running 
out  when  cooked.  Sausage-meat  is  good 
done  up  in  small  cakes  and  fried.  In 
summer,  when  fresh  pork  cannot  be  pro- 
cured, very  good  sausage-cakes  may  be 
made  of  raw  beef,  chopped  fine  with  salt 
pork,  and  seasoned  with  pepper  and  sage. 
When  sausages  are  fried,  they  should  not 
be  pricked,  and  they  will  cook  nicer  to 
have  a  little  fat  put  in  the  fryingpan  with 
them.  They  should  be  cooked  slowly. 
If  you  do  not  like  them  very  fat,  take 
them  out  of  the  pan  when  nearly  done, 
and  finish  cooking  them  on  a  gridiron. 
Bologna  sausages  are  made  of  equal 
weight  each,  of  ham,  veal,  arid  pork, 
chopped  very  fine,  seasoned  high,  and 
boiled  in  casings  till  tender,  then  dried. 

820.— THE  UNIVEES1TY  EECEIPT  FOE 
POEK  SAUSAGES. 

To  a  couple  of  pounds  of  lean  pork, 
young,  white,  and  delicate,  put  three 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  minced  beef  suet  j 
the  pork  must  first  be  chopped  very  fine  j 
add  thjree  dessert-spoonfuls  of  bread 
which  has  been  dipped  in  port  wine, 


'324: 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


dried  and  grated  fine ;  work  it  together 
with  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  smoothly 
beaten :  season  it  with  pepper  and  salt, 
and  dried  sage  ;  a  very  little  cayenne 
may  be  introduced,  and  a  very  small  piece 
of  garlic.  Work  the  whole  well  together 
in  a  mortar  until  it  forms  a  paste ;  it  may 
then  be  put  into  wide  skins,  or  pressed 
down  into  jars  for  future  use.  It  is  cut 
into  square  pieces,  dredged  with  flour, 
fried  in  fresh  butter,  and  sent  to  table  on 
a  toast  as  a  breakfast  dish. 

821.— SAUCISSES  1  L'ESPAGNOLE. 

Cut  into  chops  the  loin  of  a  good  sized 
pig,  bone  it.  and  cut  the  meat  into  dice, 
keeping  the  fat  and  lean  separate,  three 
quarters  of  an  inch  square.  Chop  two 
corns  of  garlic  fine,  add  to  it  black  pep- 
per, Spanish  pepper,  and  salt ;  mix  it  well 
together,  and  season  the  meat  with  it: 
pour  over  it  half  a  pint  of  an  acid  wine, 
and  when  it  has  been  drawn  in  by  the 
meat,  add  more,  until  the  expiration  of  a 
week ;  then  lay  the  meat  in  skins,  alter- 
nately fat  and  lean,  and  if  any  moisture 
appears  to  be  required  give  a  little  more 
wine.  Twist  the  skin,  and  tie  it  in  the 
lengths  you  require,  and  keep  them  in  a 
cool  dry  place.  Tney  may  be  boiled, 
fried,  broiled,  grilled,  toasted,  served  with 
poultry  or  veal,  or  may  be  eaten  with 
bread  alone. 

822.— PORK  SAUSAGES. 

Chop,  particularly  fine,  about  two  or 
three  pounds  of  lean  pork,  and  an  equal 
quantity  of  fat ;  have  ready  some  sage, 
either  dry  or  green,  either  passed  through 
a  sieve  or  chopped  very  fine,  a  small 
piece  of  shalot,  a  few  grains  of  ground 
cloves,  season  it  with  pepper  and  salt, 
mix  a  few  fine  bread-crumbs  up  with  it, 
have  your  skins  ready  cleaned ;  then  fill 
them,  or  if  preferred  roll  into  balls  and 
fry  them ;  you  will  tie  them  the  length 
you  wish  the  sausages  to  be,  prick  the 
skins  with  a  fork  before  you  fry  them ; 


you  may  do  them  in  the  oven  if  it  should 
be  hot. 

823.— ANOTHER  WAY. 

Chop  the  pork  as  before,  only  add  half 
the  quantity  of  lean  veal,  a  pound  of  suet 
chopped  e'qually  fine,  have  ready  a  French 
roll  soaked  in  milk  but  no  crust,  season 
it  well  with  pepper  and  salt,  mix  it  all 
well  together. 

824.— LIVER  PUDDING. 

Boil  pigs'  livers,  mince,  and  season 
them  with  pepper,  salt,  and  chopped 
sweet  marjoram  and  sage,  adding  cloves. 
Put  them  in  skins,  prick  them,  and  boil 
slowly  an  hour  or  so.  Keep  them  in 
covered  jars,  to  eat  cold  in  slices,  or  to 
fry  in  larger  pieces.  Boiled  pigs'  feet 
may  be  mixed  with  the  livers. 

825.— BOLOGNA  SAUSAGES. 
To  ten  pounds  of  beef  take  four  of 
pork ;  chop  and  mix  it,  season  well  with 
six  ounces  of  salt,  and  some  black  and 
cayenne  pepper,  cloves  powdered,  and 
chopped  garlic.  Put  the  mixture  into 
beef  skins,  tie  them,  and  put  them  into 
brine  strong  enough  to  bear  an  egg,  for 
three  weeks,  turning  them  every  day. 
Then  dry  and  hang  them  up  to  smoke. 

826.— HEAD  CHEESE. 

Boil  the  head,  tongues,  and  feet  of 
freshly-killed  pigs ;  taking  the  skin  from 
the  head  first.  When  tender,  chop  the 
meat,  season  it  with  salt,  pepper,  cloves, 
minced  sweet  herbs,  and  mix  thoroughly. 
Put  the  mixture  into  deep  pans,  press  it 
down,  cover  it  with  an  inverted  plate,  and 
place  a  heavy  weight  on  the  bottom  of 
the  plate.  In  three  days  take  it  out.  and 
serve  in  slices,  to  be  eaten  with  mustard 
and  vinegar,  at  breakfast  or  supper. 

827.— A  DIFFERENT  TO  A  DIFFERENT 
PALATE. 

Chop  pork  as  before,  and  an  equal 
quantity  of  fat,  and  the  quantity  of  lean 


POEK. 


325 


veal,  and  the  same  of  suet,  and  two  or 
three  handfuls  of  fine  bread-crumbs ;  have 
ready  a  few  sage-leaves,  a  few  of  knotted 
marjoram  and  one  shalot ;  pound  all  well 
together,  season  with  white  pepper  and 
salt,  either  put  them  in  skins  or*  roll 
them,  and  fry  them  as  above. 

828.— SPICED  SAUSAGES. 
Rub  well  into  a  piece  of  pork  some 
saltpetre,  allspice,  and  black  pepper,  let  it 
lie  several  days,  rubbing  it  each  day,  then 
chop  it  small,  and  add  to  it  two  shalots 
chopped  fine,  have  ready  cleaned  well  an 
ox-gut,  fill  it  with  this  meat  quite  tight, 
tie  both  ends  firm,  let  it  be  smoked  as 
hams,  wrap  it  in  a  thin  cloth,  then  let  it 
be  well  dried ;  you  may  tie  it  into  what 
lengths  you  please  before  smoking  ;  this 
will  eat  hot  or  cold. 

829.— WHITE  SAUSAGES. 

Have  ready  some  well-dried  oat-meal, 
two  or  three  onions  to  boil  hi  milk,  chop 
them  very  fine,  chop  two  pounds  of  suet 
very  fine,  mix  about  a  pint  of  oatmeal  to 
the  suet,  add  the  onions,  season  all  with 
pepper  and  salt,  rather  predominant  with 
pepper  and  onions,  filling  the  skins  as 
for  former  sausages ;  if  approved  of  add  a 
few  currants  and  boiled  rice  in  milk  to 
them.  m 

You  may  make  sausages  of  any  dressed 
meats,  either  chicken  or  rabbits;  chop 
up  the  meat  very  fine,  adding  onions  and 
seasonings  as  in  the  above,  with  chop- 
ped parsley  and  a  few  grains  of  pounded 
mace  ;  add  some  bacon  chopped  instead  of 
suet,  mix  all  together  with  two  yolks  of 
eggs,  a  few  bread  crumbs  and  a  few  drops 
of  lemon-juice;  fill  this  in  the  skins  as 
before,  and  broil  or  fry  them. 

830.— SAUCISSES  AUX  CHATAIGNES.— STEW- 
ED SAUSAGE  MEAT  WITH  CHESTNUTS. 

Take   twenty  or  thirty  sound  chest- 
nuts, roast  them  over  a  slow  fire,  and 
when  sufficiently"  roasted  to  remove  the 
21 


husk  take  them  off,  peel  them,  removing 
the  inner  skin  as  well  as  the  husk,  and 
put  them  aside  sufficiently  near  the  fire 
not  to  cool  too  readily.  Cut  into  dia- 
monds half  a  dozen  thin  slices  of  sausage 
meat,  and  fry  them  brown  in  a  little 
fresh  butter.  When  they  are  a  good 
color,  take  them  out,  and  pour  three 
parts  of  the  butter  in  which  they  have 
been  fried  into  a  small  well-tinned  or 
earthenware  saucepan.  Thicken  it  while 
heating  with  a  spoonful  of  flour,  and 
pour  in  gradually  a  pint  of  good  gravy, 
with  a  glass  of  old  brown  sherry,  or  two 
of  Madeira.  Put  in  a  fagot  of  herbs, 
and  season  to  palate,  a  little  cayenne  may 
accompany  the  common  pepper.  As 
soon  as  it  boils,  lay  the  sausage  cakes 
round  the  saucepan  close  to  the  sides, 
leaving  the  centre  clear,  and  in  this  space 
put  the  chestnuts.  Let  them  stew  slow- 
ly three  quarters  of  an  hour;  then  dish 
them,  arranging  the  sausage  meat  and 
chestnuts  in  the  same  manner  as  in  the 
stewpan ;  pour  the  gravy  over  them,  re- 
moving the  fagot  of  herbs  first,  and  serve. 

881.— TO  COLLAE  A  PIG'S  HEAD. 

Clean  thoroughly,  and  put  it  in  pickle 
for  a  week,  boil  it  tender,  then  take  out  the 
bones  carefully,  turn  the  upper  part  of 
one  cheek  to  the  snout  of  the  other 
cheek,  season  them  with  pepper  and  salt, 
roll  it  lightly  in  a  cloth,  and  secure  it, 
then  boil  until  it  is  very  tender.  Do  not 
remove  the  cloth  when  done,  but  place  it 
upon  an  earthenware  dish,  lay  a  heavy 
weight  upon  it,  and  unbind  when  cold ;  if 
the  cheek  is  a  large  and  fat  one.  it  will  be 
improved  by  laying  a  slice  or  two  of  lean 
pork,  or  ham,  between  the  cheeks  before 
binding  them  in  the  cloth. 

832.— PIG'S  HEAD  BAKED. 

Let  it  be  divided,  and  thoroughly 
cleaned;  take  out  the  brains,  trim  the 
snout  and  ears,  bake  it  an  hour  and  a 
half,  wash  the  brains  thoroughly,  blanch 


326 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


them,  beat  them  up  with  an  egg,  pepper, 
and  salt,  and  some  finely  chopped  or 
pounded  sage,  and  a  small  piece  of  butter ; 
fry  them  or  brown  them  before  the  fire ; 
serve  with  the  head. 

Pig's  head  is  profitable  to  buy.  It  is 
often  despised  because  cheap;  but  well 
cooked,  it  is  delicious.  Well  cleaned,  the 
tip  of  the  snout  chopped  off,  and  put  in 
brine  a  week,  it  is  in  order  for  boiling. 
The  cheeks  are  better  than  any  other 
pieces  of  pork  to  "bake.  The  head  is 
good  baked  an  hour  and  a  half,  and  yields 
abundance  of  sweet  fat  for  shortening. 
The  butchers  of  Philadelphia  make  what 
they  call  scrapple  out  of  pig's  cheek,  boil- 
ed and  chopped  very  fine.  The  water  in 
which  this  meat  has  been  boiled  is  thick- 
ened with  buckwheat  and  Indian  meal 
boiled  hi  it  till  sufficiently  done.  The 
meat  is  added.  When  cold,  it  forms  cakes, 
which  are  sold  in  market — and  fried  in 
slices  for  breakfast  by  the  purchaser. 

833.-PIG'S  HEAD  BOILED. 

This  is  the  most  profitable  dish,  though 
not  so  pleasant  to  the  palate ;  it  should 
first  be  salted,  which  is  usually  done  by 
the  pork  butcher ;  it  should  be  boiled  an 
hour  and  a  quarter,  it  must  boil  gently 
or  the  meat  will  be  hard ;  serve  with 
vegetables. 

834.— PETTITOES. 

Put  them  in  just  sufficient  water  to 
cover  them,  add  the  heart  and  liver,  boil 
them  ten  minutes,  take  out  the  liver  and 
heart,  and  mince  them  small,  and  return 
them  to  the  feet,  stew  until  quite  tender, 
thicken  with  flour  and  butter,  season 
with  pepper  and  salt,  serve  up  with  sip- 
pets of  plain  bread,  or  toasted  bread; 
make  a  pyramid  of  the  minced  heart  and 
liver,  and  lay  the  feet  round  them. 

When  pettitoes  are  fried,  they  should 
be  first  boiled,  then  dipped  in  butter,  and 
fried  a  light  brown. 


835.— PIGS'  FEET  A  LA  ST.  MENEHOULD. 
Clean  the  feet  perfectly,  cut  them  down 
in  two,  then  bind  them  with  a  tape  to 
prevent  their  shrinking  or  opening,  and 
boil  them  gently  until  they  are  rather 
soft,  with  carrots,  onions,  parsley,  thyme, 
allspice,  and  bay-leaf ;  let  them  cool  in  the 
liquor.  When  required  for  use.  take  off 
the  tape,  dip  them  in  yolks  of  eggs  and 
butter  about  three  parts  melted ;  season 
them,  then  cover  them  with  crumbs  of 
bread  and  finely  minced  parsley,  with  the 
smallest  quantity  of  shalot.  Broil  them 
until  highly  browned,  and  serve  dry,  or 
with  sauce  Robert. 

836.— SOUS*,. 

Take  pigs'  feet,  ears,  &c.,  well  cleaned, 
simmer  four  or  five  hours,  till  they  are 
too  tender  to  be  taken  out  with  a  fork. 
Take  from  the  boiling  water  and  put 
them  into  cold  water.  Boil  the  jelly- 
like  liquor  in  which  they  were  cooked, 
with  an  equal  quantity  of  vinegar ;  add 
cloves,  allspice,  cinnamon,  and  sufficient 
salt  to  the  souse,  pack  it  down  tight,  and 
put  the  liquor  over  it. 

837.— SOUSE. 

Take  pigs'  ears  and  feet,  clean  them 
thoroughly,  then  soak  them  in  salt  and 
water,  for  several  days.  Boil  them  ten- 
der and  split  them,  they  are  then  good 
fried.  If  you  wish  to  souse  them  when 
cold,  turn  boiling  vinegar  on  them,  spice 
with  peppercorns  and  mace.  Cloves  im- 
prove the  taste,  but  turn  them  a  dark 
color.  Add  a  little  salt.  They  will  keep 
good  pickled  five  or  six  weeks.  Fry 
them  in  lard. 

838.— PIGS'  FEET  STEWED. 

Clean,  split,  and  boil  tender,  put  them 
into  a  stewpan  with  enough  gravy  to 
cover  them,  an  onion  sliced,  a  few  sage 
leaves,  whole  black  pepper,  allspice,  and 
salt ;  stew  forty  minutes,  strain  off  the 


POKE. 


327 


gravy,  thicken  with  flour  and  butter,  add 
two  spoonfuls  of  vinegar  or  one  dessert- 
spoonful of  lemon  pickle  j  serve  it  up 
with  the  feet. 

889.— PIGS'  FEET  AND  EAES  FEIED. 

They  must  be  well  cleaned,  and  boiled 
until  tender,  and  laid  in  vinegar  and 
water,  with  salt  in  it,  until  they  are  re- 
quired for  use ;  to  prepare  them  for  cook- 
ing, cut  the  feet  in  two,  slice  the  ears, 
dip  them  in  butter,  dredge  with  flour, 
fry  a  nice  color,  and  serve  with  melted 
butter  and  lemon  pickle. 

840.— PIGS'  HAESLET 

Is  made  with  the  liver  and  sweetbreads, 
which  must  be  well  cleaned;  add  to 
them  pieces  of  pork  both  fat  and  lean, 
chop  finely  sage  and  onions,  season  with 
pepper  and  salt,  and  mix  with  the  pre- 
ceding ;  put  them  in  a  cowl,  tie  it  closely, 
and  roast.  It  may  also  be  baked.  Serve 
with  a  sauce  of  port  wine  and  water  and 
mustard,  just  boiled  up,  and  put  it  into 
the  dish. 

841.— BAKED  FAGOTS. 
Having  procured  your  pig's-fry,  (the 
quantity  to  be  regulated  by  the  size  of 
family.)  wash  and  set  it  on  the  fire,  in  a 
saucepan,  with  just  sufficient  water  to 
cover ;  add  a  bunch  of  sage,  and  four  or 
five  onions;  let  all  boil  ten  minutes; 
take  out  the  meat,  and  cut  in  slices ;  then 
take  out  the  sage  and  onions,  and  chop 
it  all  finely  together ;  season  with  pepper 
and  salt ;  cut  the  caul  in  pieces,  and  fill 
with  the  meat  about  the  size  of  an  or- 
dinary teacup ,  place  them  on  a  tin  and 
bake  in  a  moderate  oven ;  do  not  throw- 
away  the  water  it  was  boiled  in,  but  boil 
it  down  to  a  sufficient  quantity  to  serve 
with  the  fagots  as  gravy. 

842.— WHITE  PUDDINGS 

Are  made  with  beef  suet  and  oatmeal, 


flavored  and  seasoned.  Take  a  pound 
and  a  half  of  beef  suet,  chop  it  very 
fine,  and,  having  boiled  a  pound  of  oat- 
meal, tightly  wedged  down  in  a  small 
white  basin  closely  covered  with  a  cloth 
for  five  hours,  scrape  it  into  powder,  and 
mix  it  with  the  suet,  two  small  onions 
boiled  and  chopped  fine,  and  season  well 
with  white  pepper  and  salt ;  a  small  quan 
tity  of  thyme  and  marjoram  may  be  add- 
ed at  pleasure.  Boil  them  an  hour. 
Like  all  sausages  they  must  be  pricked 
while  cooking,  to  suffer  the  hot  air  gene- 
rated to  escape,  or  they  will  burst. 

843.— BLACK  PUDDINGS. 

•  Stir  three  quarts  of  sheep's  blood  with 
one  spoonful  of  salt  till  cold,  boil  a 
quart  of  grits  in  sufficient  water  to 
swell  them,  drain,  and  add  them  to  the 
blood  with  a  pound  of  suet,  a  little 
pounded  nutmeg,  some  mace,  cloves,  and 
allspice ;  a  pound  of  the  hog's  fat  cut  small, 
some  parsley  finely  minced,  sage,  sweet 
herbs,  a  pint  of  bread-crumbs,  salt,  and 
pepper ;  mix  these  ingredients  well  to- 
gether, put  them  into  well  cleaned  skins, 
tie  them  in  links,  and  prick  the  skins, 
that  while  boiling  they  may  not  burst. 
Let  them  boil  twenty  minutes,  and  cover 
them  with  clean  straw  until  they  are 
cold. 

844.-BLACK  AND  WHITE  PUDDINGS. 

Procure  the  pig's  blood,  then  add  half 
a  pound  of  half-boiled  rice,  set  it  to  cool 
keeping  it  stirred ,  take  a  little  more  rice 
boiled  in  milk,  add  it  to  the  blood,  cut 
up  about  one  pound  of  fat  pork  into 
large  dice,  melt  half  a  pound  of  lard  and 
pour  into  the  blood  and  rice,  then  add 
your  fat,  with  a  few  bread-crumbs,  three 
shalots,  a  little  parsley,  some  black  pep- 
per, cayenne  pepper,  and  salt ;  mix  all 
well  together,  then  fill  into  skins  as  be- 
fore ;  tie  them  the  length  you  wish  them, 
then  boil  them  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  take 


328 


THE    PRACTICAL    HOUSEKEEPER. 


them  out  and  lay  them  on  some  new 
clean  straw  until  cold,  then  give  them 
another  boil  for  a  few  minutes,  then  turn 
them  as  before  until  wanted ;  put  them 
in  the  oven  when  you  require  them,  or 
fry  them  or  broil  them. 

845.-TO  MELT  LARD. 

Take  the  inner  fat  of  a  newly  killed 
pig  and  strip  off  the  skin  completely  and 
carefully,  slice  it  and  put  it  into  a  jar,  a 
sprig  of  rosemary  may  be  placed  with  it, 
and  set  the  jar  in  a  pan  of  boiling  water ; 
let  it  melt,  and  when  perfectly  fluid 
pour  it  into  dry  clean  jars,  and  cover 
them  closely ;  it  may  be  kept  some  time 
in  a  dry  place,  and  when  used  may  be> 
mixed  with  butter  for  pastry,  for  frying 
fish,  and  many  other  purposes  in  cook- 
ing. 

846.— HOG'S  LAED 

Should  be  carefully  melted  in  a  jar 
put  into  a  kettle  of  water  and  boiled : 
run  it  into  bladders  that  have  been  ex- 
tremely well  cleaned.  The  smaller  they 
are  the  better  the  lard  keeps,  as,  after 
the  air  reaches  it,  it  becomes  rank. 
Put  in  a  sprig  of  rosemary  when  melt- 
ing. 

This  being  a  most  useful  article  for 
frying  fish,  it  should  be  prepared  with 
care.  Mixed  with  butter,  it  makes  fine 
crust  for  tarts. 

84T.— HAMS-BOILED  HAM. 

The  ham  should  be  soaked  about 
twelve  hours,  then  wrapped  in  a  clean 
cloth,  and  laid  upon  stone  flags  for  two 
days,  the  cloth  being  kept  moistened 
with  clean  soft  water ;  this  will  render 
it  tender  when  cooked  ;  let  *it  be  thor- 
oughly scraped  and  cleaned,  and  placed 
in  the  kettle,  which  in  small  families 
will  be  found  the  most  convenient  mode 
of  cooking  it ;  they  should  be  put  in  suf- 
ficient water  to  cover  them,  which  water, 


when  the  ham  is  cooked,  will  be  found 
of  the  greatest  service  in  making  stocks 
for  soups ;  the  time  it  will  require  to 
boil  will  depend  upon  the  weight  of  the 
ham :  a  small  one  three  hours  and  a 
half,  which  may  progress  according  to 
the  weight* to  six  hours  ;  when  it  is  done 
remove  the  skin,  if  possible,  without 
breaking  it,  it  prevents  the  ham  when 
cold  becoming  dry ;  spread  over  the  ham 
bread-raspings,  the  dish  should  be  gar- 
nished with  sliced  boiled  carrots. 

848.— TO  COOK  A  HAM.  - 

An  excellent  manner  of  cooking  a  ham 
is  the  following:  Boil  it  three  or  four 
hours,  according  to  size ;  then  skin  the 
whole  and  fit  it  for  the  table ;  then  set 
in  the  oven  for  half  an  hour,  cover  it 
thickly  with  pounded  rusk  or  bread- 
crumbs, and  set  back  for  half  an  hour 
longer.  Boiled  ham  is  always  improved 
by  setting  it  in  an  oven  for  nearly  an 
hour,  until  much  of  the  fat  dries  out, 
and  it  also  makes  it  more  tender. 

849.— HAM,  TO  BOIL  IN  A  SUPERIOR  WAY. 

Parboil  the  ham.  then  allow  it  to  re- 
main in  the  water  all  night,  and  finish 
boiling  the  next  day,  so  as  to  be  in  time 
for  dishing  up;  skim,  and  dust  with 
raspings,  the  same  as  directed  before,  and 
you  will  have  a  more  tender  ham  than 
one  dressed  almost  any  other  way. 

850.-ECONOMICAL  DISH. 

Cut  some  pretty  fat  ham  or  bacon  into 
slices,  and  fry  of  a  nice  brown ;  lay  them 
aside  to  keep  warm ;  then  mix  equal 
quantities  of  potatoes  and  cabbage, 
bruiseo"  well  together,  and  fry  them  in 
the  fat  left  from  the  ham.  Place  the 
mixture  at  the  bottom,  and  lay  the 
slices  of  bacon  on  the  top. ,  Cauliflower 
or  broccoli,  substituted  for  cabbage  is 
truly  delicious,  and,  to  any  one  possess- 
ing a  garden,  quite  easily  procured — as 


PORK. 


329 


those  newly  blown  will  do.     The  dish 
must  be  well  seasoned  with  pepper. 

851.-TO  CUKE  A  HAM. 

For  a  ham  of  sixteen  pounds,  take  a 
pound  and  a  half  of  common -salt,  with 
an  ounce  of  saltpetre.  Leave  it  some 
days,  then  put  in  one  pound  of  molas- 
ses;  let  the  ham  lie  a  month  in  the 
pickle ;  then  hang  it  up. 

852.— PRACTICAL  HOUSEWIFE'S  CHEIST- 
MAS  HAM. 

Soak  the  ham.  be  the  weight  whatever 
it  may,  half  the  usual  time  in  water ; 
remove,  wash  well  with  cold  water,  place 
in  a  pan  large  and  deep  enough  to  con- 
tain it,  cover  with  beer  or  good  ale,  and 
let  it  remain  until  the  required  time  for 
soaking  a  ham  of  the  size  used  has  ex- 
pired. Boil  as  usual  until  the  skin  can 
be  readily  removed  ;  then  place  the  ham 
in  a  tin  or  an  earthenware  dish,  and 
cover  with  a  common  flour  and  water 
paste,  or  surround  with  batter.  Bake 
in  a  moderately  heated  oven  until  done, 
remove  the  paste  or  batter,  cover  with 
bread-raspings,  and  serve  hot. 

Cooked  in  this  manner,  a  ham  acquires 
the  most  delicious  flavor. 

853.-HAMS. 

Skimmed  milk,  or  milk  and  water,  will 
be  found  preferable  to  plain  water  for 
soaking  hams ;  and  they  may  also  be 
boiled  in  milk  and  water. 

Where  vegetables  are  plentiful,  it  is 
desirable  to  boil  ham  with  three  heads  of 
celery,  a  couple  of  turnips,  half  a  dozen 
small  onions,  and  a  large  bunch  of  sweet 
marjoram,  thyme,  &c.,  put  in  after  the  pot 
has  been  skimmed.  These  will  extract 
the  salt  and  soften  the  meat.  A  piece  of 
coarse  fresh  beef,  or  any  kind  of  meat,  in 
addition,  will  materially  improve  the  ham, 
as,  in  this  manner  of  boiling  it,  the  juices 
of  the  meat  and  vegetables  insinuate 


themselves  between  the  fibres  of  the  ham, 
after  having  dislodged  the  salt,  by  which 
means  the  meat  is  enriched  and  rendered 
tender.  At  first  sight  this  will  appear 
an 'extravagant  way  of  boiling  a  ham, 
but  it  should  be  considered  that  the 
broth  will  serve  the  purposes  of  the 
family."  If  the  meat  and  vegetables  are 
not  approved,  two  pounds  of  fresh  beef 
dripping  will  answer  nearly  as  well. 

854,— TO  BOIL. 

If  long  hung,  soak  it  for  twenty -four 
hours  in  lukewarm  water,  changing  it 
frequently.  Wash  and  brush  it  well: 
trim  off  any  rusty  parts ;  put  it  into  a 
boiler  of  water,  and  let  it  Dimmer  from 
three  hours  and  a  half  to  five  hours,  ac- 
cording to  its  size.  It  is  best  to  allow 
time  enough,  as  it  is  easy  to  take  up  the 
ham  when  done,  and  keep  it  hot  over 
boiling  water,  covered  closely.  Take  off 
the  skin  as  whole  as  you  can,  as  it  keeps 
the  cold  ham  moist  when  skewered  on 
again  after  dinner. 

There  can  be  no  doubt  that  the  fore- 
going is  an  excellent  mode  of  boiling  a 
ham,  but  many  people  prefer -to  have  it 
baked)  in  which  case  send  it  to1  the  oven 
in  a  deep  pan,  with  half  a  pound  of  suet 
over  it  to  baste  it  occasionally ;  or  skin 
it,  cover  it  with  a  crust  of  coarse  paste, 
and,  when  taken  from  the  bakehouse, 
strip  off  the  crust,  rub  it  with  yolk  of 
egg,  on  which  put  finely  powdered  crumbs 
of  bread  strewed  with  a  dredging-box,  hi 
the  same  manner  as  when  the  ham  is 
boiled. 

In  Spain  and  Portugal,  where  the  hams 
are  generally  fine,  the  method  of  dressing 
them  is  to  put  the  ham  in  cold  water  with 
a  large  handful  of  brown  sugar,  to  which 
some  persons  add  a  quantity  of  the  com- 
mon country  wine,  and  let  it  simmer  on 
the  fire  until  parboiled,  keeping  the  pot 
well  skimmed  ;  when  taken  out,  the  skin 
is  stripped  off,  and  the  ham  covered  with 
brown  sugar  to  the  thickness  of  an  inch. 


330 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


after  which  it  is  sent  to  the  oven  and 
baked  until  thoroughly  done. 

A  ham  of  fifteen  pounds  should  be  al- 
lowed nearly  two  hours  before  the  water 
begins  to  boil,  and  as  much  more  for  sim- 
mering until  half  done  ;  then  from  three 
to  four  hours'  baking,  according  to  the 
heat  of  the  oven,  which  however  should 
never  be  allowed  to  be  too  hot. 

When  cold,  twist  some  neatly  fringed 
letter-paper  round  the  shank-bone. 

855.— TO  BOAST. 

Take  a  very  fine  ham  (a  Westphalia,  if 
you  can  procure  it),  soak  it  in  lukewarm 
water  for  a  day  or  two,  changing  the 
water  frequently.  The  day  before  you 
intend  to  cook  it,  take  the  ham  out  of  the 
water,  and,  having  removed  the  skin,  trim 
it  nicely,  and  pour  over  it  a  bottle  of  an 
inferior  white  wine ;  let  it  steep  till  next 
morning,  frequently  during  the  day  wash- 
ing the  'wine  over  it  j  put  it  in  a  cradle- 
spit  in  time  to  allow  at  least  six  hours 
for  slowly  roasting  it;  baste  with  hot 
water  continually.  When  done,  dredge 
it  with  fine  bread  raspings,  and  brown 
before  the  fire. 

856.— SPRING,  OR  FOREHAND  OP  PORK. 

Out  out  the  bone ;  sprinkle  salt,  pep- 
per, and  sage  dried,  over  the  inside ;  but 
first  warm  a  little  butter  to  baste  it,  and 
then  flour  it ;  roll  the  pork  tight,  and  tie 
it ;  then  roast  by  a  hanging  jack.  About 
two  hours  will  do  it. 

857.— HAM  GRAVY. 

Take  the  wine  in  which  the  ham  was 
steeped,  and  add  to  it  the  essence  or  juice 
which  flowed  from  the  meat  when  taken 
from  the  spit ;  squeeze  in  the  juice  of  two 
lemons  ;  put  it  into  a  saucepan,  and  boil 
and  skim  it ;  send  it  to  table  in  a  boat. 
Cover  the  shank  of  the  ham  (which 
should  have  been  sawed  short)  with 
bunches  of  double  parsley,  and  ornament 
it  with  any  garnish  you  may  think  proper. 


858.— TO  BOIL  MUTTON  HAM. 
Put  it  on  the  fire  in  cold  water  ;  let  it 
warm  quickly,  and  allow  it  to  boil  only 
twenty  minutes ;  then  leave  it  in  the  pan 
of  water  till  cold.  This  plan  renders  it 
moist,  and  answers  when  it  is  to  be  eaten 
cold. 

859.— HAM  AND  EGGS  FRIED. 

Cut  some  nice  slices  of  ham,  put  them 
in  a  frying-pan ;  cover  them  with  hot 
water,  and  set  the  pan  over  the  fire.  Let 
it  boil  up  once  or  twice ;  then  take  out 
the  slices  and  throw  out  the  water ;  put 
a  bit  of  lard  in  the  pan  ;  dip  the  slices  in 
wheat  flour  or  finely  rolled  crackers,  and 
when  the  fat  is  hot,  put  them  into  the 
pan ;  sprinkle  a  little  pepper  over  ;  when 
both  sides  are  a  fine  brown,  take  them  on 
a  steak  dish ;  put  a  little  boiling  water  into 
the  pan.  and  put  it  in  the  dish  with  the 
meat.  Now  put  a  bit  of  lard  the  size  of 
a  large  egg  into  the  pan ;  add  a  salt-spoon- 
ful to  it ;  let  it  become  hot ;  break  six  or 
eight  eggs  carefully  into  a  bowl ;  then 
slip  them  into  the  hot  lard ;  set  the  pan 
over  a  gentle  fire.  When  the  white  be- 
gins to  set,  pass  a  knife-blade,  so  as  to 
divide  an  equal  quantity  of  white  to  each 
yolk  ;  cut  it  entirely  through  to  the  pan, 
that  they  may  cook  the  more  quickly. 
When  done,  take  each  one  up  with  a 
skimmer  spoon,  and  lay  them  in  a  chain 
around  the  edge  of  the  meat  on  the  dish. 
Fried  eggs  should  not  be  turned  in  the 
pan. 

Spinach  boiled  and  pressed  free  from 
water,  and  chopped  small,  may  be  put  on 
the  centre  of  a  steak  dish ;  lay  the  fried 
ham  on  it ;  pour  the  gravy  over ;  place 
the  fried  eggs  around  it.  Vinegar  may 
be  eaten  with  the  spinach. 

860.-POACHED  EGGS  WITH  FRIED  HAM. 

Fry  the  ham  as  above  directed ;  take  a 
clean  frying  or  omelette-pan ;  nearly  fill 
it  with  boiling  water ;  set  it  over  a  gentle 
fire ;  break  the  eggs  singly  into  a  cup,  and 


PORK. 


331 


slip  each  into  the  boiling  water;  cover 
the  pan  for  four  or  five  minutes.  When 
done,  take  them  up  with  a  skimmer  on 
to  a  dish ;  sprinkle  a  little  pepper  and  salt 
over ;  add  a  small  bit  of  butter,  and  serve 
in  a  dish  or  over  the  ham. 

861.— TO  CUEE  HAMS. 

[The  lady  from  whom'  this  receipt  is 
procured,  prides  herself  much  on  her 
curing ;  and  often  when  asked  her  opinion 
of  a  ham  at  the  houses  of  her  friends — 
speaking  well  of  what  is  before  her,  will 
add,  "  It  is  not  like  hams  of  my  own 
cur 'ing ,  of  course ;  but  very  nice,"  &c.] — 
EDITOR. 

One  ounce  of  saltpetre,  one  ounce  of 
allspice,  one  ounce  of  cayenne  pepper,  one 
pound  of  brown  sugar,  one  pound  of  salt, 
for  every  two  hams ;  mix  and  rub  well 
over  the  hams  for  three  or  four  days,  lay- 
ing them  with  the  skin  down  in  the  tub 
in  which  you  mean  to  keep  them.  Then 
make  a  pickle  strong  enough  to  bear  an 
egg,  of  cold  water  and  salt :  add  to  the 
pickle  about  a  pound  of  sugar,  and  one 
ounce  of  saltpetre ;  if  for  sixteen  hams, 
less  in  proportion.  After  lying  three 
weeks  in  pickle  the  hams  will  be  fit  to 
smoke.  After  the  hams  come  out* I  al- 
ways put  in  the  pickle  some  plate  pieces, 
rumps  and  rounds  of  beef ;  so  that  nothing 
is  wasted. 

8S2.— TO  CUEE  HAMS. 

Pound  some  rock  salt,  saltpetre,  and 
common  salt,  and  some  coarse  brown 
sugar,  mix  it  all  well  together,  then  put 
it  all  to  get  hot,  and  while  hot  rub  the 
hams  well  with  this,  repeating  it  every 
morning  for  a  week ;  let  them  lie  in  the 
brine  for  another  week,  until  all  is  well 
incorporated  in  the  meat ;  then  take  them 
out  to  drain  on  dishes,  flour  them  and 
hang  them  up  to  dry;  you  must  be 
guided  a  good  deal  by  the  size  of  the 
hams. 

The  Virginia  method  of  curing  hams, 


(which  is  considered  very  superior,)  is  to 
dissolve  two  ounces  of  saltpetre,  two  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  saleratus,  in  a  salt  pickle,  as 
strong  as  possible ;  for  every  sixteen 
pounds  of  ham,  add  molasses  in  the  pro- 
portion of  one  gallon  to  a  hogshead  of 
water,  then  put  in  the  hams  and  let  them 
remain  three  or  four  weeks.  Then  take 
them  out  of  the  brine  and  smoke  them 
with  the  hocks  downward,  to  preserve 
the  juices.  They  will  smoke  tolerably 
well  in  the  course  of  a  month ;  but  they 
will  be  much  better  to  remain  in  the 
smoke-house  two  or  three  months.  Hams 
cured  in  this  manner  are  well  flavored, 
and  will  keep  a  long  time. 

863.— TO  EE8TOEE  POEK. 

In  warm  weather,  the  brine  on  pork 
frequently  becomes  sour  and  the  pork 
tainted.  Boil  the  brine,  skim  it  well,  and 
pour  it  ba,ck  on  the  meat  boiling  hot. 
This  will  restore  it  even  when  it  is  much 
injured. 

864.-TONGUES 

You  will  first  lay  in  salt ;  then  use  the 
same  hot  preparations  daily ;  about  ten 
days  will  do  for  the  tongues ;  sheep's 
tongues  may  be  done  the  same,  but  less 
time. 

865.— ASOTHEE  EECEIPT  TO  CUEE  HAM. 
Let  the  ham  hang  for  three  days, 
sprinkle  it  well  during  the  time  with  salt. 
Make  a  pickle  of  eight  ounces  of  rock  salt, 
an  equal  quantity  of  common  salt,  two 
ounces  of  saltpetre,  the  same  of  black 
pepper,  half  a  pound  of  common  brown 
sugar,  and  a  quart  of  beer ;  boil  it,  pour 
hot  upon  the  ham,  turn  it  every  day  in 
the  pickle  for  three  weeks,  wipe  it  as  dry 
as  possible,  and  bury  it  in  bran.  Smoke 
it  for  a  month  over  wood  smoke ;  it  must 
be  sewed  in  a  coarse  strong  wrapper. 

866.— TO  BAKE  A  HAM. 
Put  the  ham  in  soak  previous  to  dress- 
ing it ;  if  an  old  one,  two  hours  will  be 


332 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


required,  but  if  not  vSry  old,  an  hour  will 
suffice.  Wipe  it  very  dry,  and  cover  it 
with  a  paste  about  an  inch  in  thickness. 
The  edges  being  first  moistened  must  be 
drawn  together  and  made  to  adhere,  or 
the  gravy  will  escape.  Bake  it  in  a  re- 
gular well  heated  oven ;  it  will  take  from 
three  to  six  hours,  according  to  its  weight ; 
when  done  remove  the  paste,  and  then  the 
skin.  This  must  be  done  while  the  ham 
is  hot.  If  well  baked  and  not  too  salt, 
it  will  prove  of  finer  flavor  than  if  boiled. 

867.— TO  MAKE  HAM  8UTEEIOE  TO  WEST- 
PHALIA.   (Ude.) 

As  soon  as  the  pig  is  cold  enough  to  be 
cut  up,  take  the  two  hams,  and  cut  out 
the  round  bone,  so  as  to  have  the  ham 
not  too  thick:  rub  them  with  common 
salt,  and  leave  them  in  a  large  pan  for 
three  days  j  when  the  salt  has  drawn  out 
all  the  blood,  throw  the  brine  away,  and 
proceed  as  follows :  for  two  hams  of 
about  eighteen  pounds  each,  take  one 
pound  of  moist  sugar,  one  pound  of  com- 
mon salt,  and  two  ounces  of  saltpetre, 
mix  them  together,  and  rub  the  hams 
well  with  it,  then  put  them  into  a  vessel 
large  enough  to  contain  them  in  the 
liquor,  always  keeping  the  salt  over  them ; 
after  they  have  been  in  this  state  three 
days,  throw  over  them  a  bottle  of  good 
vinegar.  One  month  is  requisite  to  cure 
them ;  during  which  period  they  must  be 
often  turned  in  the  brine ;  when  you  take 
them  out,  drain  them  well,  powder  them 
with  some  coarse  flour,  and  hang  them  in 
a  dry  place.  The  same  brine  will  serve 
again,  except  that  you  must  not  put  so 
much  salt  on  the  next  hams  that  you 
pickle.  If  the  hams  are  smaller,  put  only 
three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  salt,  but  the 
salt  will  not  do  any  harm  if  you  do  not 
let  them  remain  too  long  in  the  brine ; 
if  you  can  get  them  smoked,  they  are 
then  not  so  subject  to  be  infested  by  ver- 
min; no  insect  whatever  can  bear  the 
bitterness  of  the  soot;  the  smoke  of 


wood  is  preferable  to  the  smoke  of  coal. 
Be  particular  that  the  hams  are  hung  as 
far  as  possible  from  the  fire,  otherwise 
the  fat  will  melt,  and  they  will  become 
dry  and  hard  and  rank. 

868.— TO  BEAISE  A  HAM  IN  THE  FEENCH 
FASHION. 

.  It  is  prepared  for  cooking  in  the  same 
manner  as  in  the  preceding  receipt,  but 
when  cleaned  it  is  placed  upon  a  layer 
of  new  hay,  which  has  previously  been 
laid  evenly  upon  a  clean  white  cloth, 
which  should  also  be  thin,  that  the  flavor 
of  the  braise  may  be  imparted.  It  is  then 
placed  in  a  stewpan,  with  two  parts  water 
to  one  part  vin  ordinaire,  or  any  light 
white  wine,  and  suffered  to  come  to  a  boil. 
The  scum  must  be  removed,  and  then 
vegetables  added ;  four  carrots,  three 
onions,  a  fagot  of  herbs,  and,  if  approved, 
a  little  corn  of  garlic,  perhaps  less  of  that 
powerfully  flavored  root.  Simmer  from 
three  hours  and  a  half  to  six,  according 
to  the  weight ;  when  tender  it  is  enough. 
The  skin  should  then  be  stripped  off 
carefully,  and  bread  raspings  strewed 
over  it.  Powdered  herbs,  or  parsley 
chopped  very  fine,  are  sometimes  mixed 
with^the  raspings,  but  taste  must  regulate 
its  admission  or  omission. 

869— TO  BEAISE  A  HAM. 
Put  the  ham  into  water  the  night  pre- 
vious to  cooking,  and  next  day  wash  it  in 
warm  water,  trim  it  by  cutting  away  all 
the  yellow  fat  and  rusty  parts  ;  take  off 
the  knuckle,  and  pare  down  all  the  under 
part ;  put  it  in  a  stewpan,  and  just  cover 
it  with  water ;  Jay  in  a  slice  of  beef  cut 
into  pieces,  a  few  onions,  a  fagot  of 
sweet  herbs,  three  small  carrots,  and  a 
little  allspice  ;  simmer  from  three  to  six 
hours ;  it  must  depend  entirely  upon  the 
size  and  weight.  Take  out  the  ham,  and 
skin  it ;  glaze,  and  serve  it  upon  a  puree 
of  vegetables.  The  braise  may  be  made 
into  a  rich  brown  soup,  thickened  and 


PORK. 


333 


flavored  with  wine  ;  it  may  serve  also  for 
the  flavoring  of  soups. 

870.— HAM  EASHERS  OR  SLICES 

May  be  toasted,  broiled,  or  fried.  May 
be  served  with  spinach  and  poached  eggs, 
or  boiled  green  peas.  Stewed  with  green 
peas,  or  cut  in  thin  slices,  divided  in  four 
pieces,  each  piece  rolled  and  fastened  with 
a  skewer,  roasted  in  a  Dutch  oven,  and 
served  with  peas.  They  should  in  all 
cases  be  cut  an  even  thickness,  and  cooked 
without  injuring  the  color.  Bacon  may 
be  dres.5ecl  in  the  same  manner. 

871.  -TO  CUKE  BACON.— COBBETTS 
RECEIPT. 

The  two  sides  that  remain,  and  which 
are  called  flitches,  are  to  be  cured  for  ba- 
con. They  are  first  rubbed  with  salt  on 
their  insidus,  or  flesh  ,sides,  then  placed 
one  on  the  other,  the  flesh  sides  upper- 
most, in  a  salting  trough  which  has  a  gut- 
ter round  its  edges  to  drain  away  the 
brine,  for  to  have  sweet  and  fine  bacon, 
the  flitches  must  not  be  sopping  in  brine, 
which  gives  it  the  sort  of  taste  that  bar- 
rel pork  and  sea  pork  have,  and  than 
which  nothing  is  more  villanous ;  every 
one  knows  how  different  is  the  taste  of 
fresh  dry  salt  from  that  of  salt  in  a  dis- 
solved state,  therefore  change  the  salt 
often,  once  in  four  or  five  days ;  let  it 
melt 'and  sink  in,  but  let  it  not  lie  too 
lung;  change  the  flitches,  put  that  at  bot- 
tom which  was  first  on  the  top,  do  this 
a  couple  of  times ;  this  mode  will  cost 
you  a  great  deal  more  in  salt  than  the 
sopping  mode,  but  without  it  your  bacon 
will  not  be  so  sweet  and  fine,  nor  keep  so 
well.  As  for  the  time  required  in  making 
your  flitches  sufficiently  salt,  it  depends 
on  circumstances,  the  thickness  of  the 
flitch,  the  state  of  the  weather,  the  place 
wherein  the  salting  is  going  on  ;  it  takes 
a  longer  time  for  U  thick  than  a  thin 
flitch ;  it  takes  longer  in  dry  than  in 
damp  weather ;  it  takes  longer  in  a  dry 


than  in  a  damp  place  ;  but  for  the  flitches 
ot  a  hog  of  five  score,  in  weather  not  very 
dry  or  damp,  about  six  weeks  may  do  ; 
and  as  yours  is  to  bo  fat,  wliich  receives 
little  injury  from  over  salting,  give  time 
enough,  for  you  are  to  have  bacon  until 
Christmas  comes  again. 

The  place  for  salting  should,  like  a 
dairy,  always  be  cool,  but  always  admit 
of  a  free  circulation  of  air ;  confined  air, 
though  cool,  will  taint  meat  sooner  than 
the  mid-day  sun  accompanied  by  a  breeze. 
With  regard  to  smoking  the  bacon,  two 
precautions  are  necessary :  first,  to  hang 
the  flitches  where  no  rain  comes  down 
upon  them,  and  next,  that  the  smoke 
must  proceed  from  wood,  not  peat,  turf, 
nor  coal.  As  to  the  time  it  requires  to 
smoke  a  flitch,  it  must  depend  a  good  deal 
upon  whether  there  be  a  constant  fire 
beneath,  and  whether  the  fire  be  large  or 
small ;  a  month  will  do  if  the  fire  be 
prettj^  constant,  and  rich  as  a  farm-house 
fire  usually  is;  but  over-smoking,  or 
rather  too  long  hanging  in  the  air.  makes  V— - 
the  bacon  rust;  great  attention  should 
therefore  be  paid  to  this  matter.  The 
flitch  ought  not  to  be  dried  up  to  the 
hardness  of  a  board,  and  yet  it  ought  to 
be  perfectly  dry ;  before  you  hang  it  up 
lay  it  on  the  floor,  scatter  the  flesh  side 
pretty  thickly  over  with  bran,  or  with 
some  fine  sawdust,  not  of  deal  or  fir ; 
rub  it  on  the  flesh,  or  pat  it  well  down 
upon  it ;  this  keeps  the  smoke  from  get- 
ting into  the  little  openings,  and  makes 
a  sort  of  crust  to  be  dried  on. 

To  keep  the  bacon  sweet  and  good,  L~ 
and  free  from  hoppers,  sift  fine  some  clean 
and  dry  wood  ashes.  Put  some  at  the 
bottom  of  a  box  or  chest,  long  enough  to 
hold  a  flitch  of  bacon.  Lay  in  one  flitch, 
and  then  put  in  more  ashes,  then  another 
flitch,  and  cover  this  with  six  or  eight 
inches  of  the  ashes.  The  place  where 
the  box  or  chest  is  kept  ought  to  be  dry, 
and  should  the  ashts  become  damp,  they 
should  be  put  in  the  fire-place  to  dry,  and 


334: 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


when  cold  put  back  again.  With  these 
precautions,  the  bacon  will  be  as  good  at 
the  end  of  the  year,  as  on  the  first  day. 

It  may  be  as  well  to  observe  in  refer- 
ence to  the  above  receipt,  given  by  the 
very  celebrated  William  Cobbett,  in  his 
Cottage  Economy,  that  most  counties  in 
England  have  their  peculiar  method  of 
curing  hams  and  bacon,  each  varying  in 
some  slight  degree  from  the  other,  and, 
of  course,  each  is  considered  orthodox. 
But  for  simple  general  rules,  the  above 
may  be  safely  taken  as  a  guide ;  and  those 
who  implicitly  follow  the  directions  given, 
will  have  at  the  expiration,  of  from  six 
weeks  to  two  months,  well  flavored,  and 
well  cured  bacon. 

872.— TO  CUKE  BACON  FOE  LAEDING. 
It  is  of  little  use  preparing  a  small  piece 
of  bacon  for  larding,  for  different  joints 
require  lardings  of  different  lengths;  a 
piece  of  beef,  for  example,  will,  if  of  a 
tolerable  size,  require  very  lengthy  lard- 
ings,  as  a  fowl  will  require  but  small  ones. 
Ten  to  twenty  pounds  should  at  least  be 
prepared.  Take  fifteen  pounds,  and  the 
fatter  it  is  the  better ;  rub  it  well  with  a 
pound  and  a  half  of  pounded  common 
salt ;  if  in  one  piece,  lay  it  upon  a  board 
with  another  over  it ;  if  in  more  than 
one  piece,  let  each  piece  have  a  board 
with  a  weight  at  the  top ;  keep  it  in  a 
cool  place  four  or  five  weeks ;  hang  it  to 
dry  but  not  to  be  smoked. 

878.— TO  BOIL  BACON. 

If  very  salt,  soak  it  in  soft  water  two 
hours  before  cooking.  Put  it  into  a 
saucepan  with  plenty  of  water,  and  let  it 
boil  gently ;  if  two  or  three  pounds,  it 
will  take  from  an  hour  to  an  hour  and  a 
quarter;  if  "larger,  an  hour  and  forty 
minutes  will  suffice.  If  a  fine  piece  of 
the  gammon  of  bacon,  it  may  when  done 
have  the  skin,  as  in  hams,  stripped  off, 
and  have  finely  powdered  bread  raspings 
strewed  over  it.  It  will  improve  the  ap- 
pearance when  sent  to  table. 


874— BACON,  TO  BEOIL. 

Make  up  a  sheet  of  paper  in  the  shape 
of  a  dripping-pan,  cut  your  bacon  into 
thin  slices,  cut  off  the  rind,  lay  the  bacon 
on  the  paper,  put  it  over  the  gridiron, 
set  it  over  a  slow  fire,  and  it  will  broil 
clearly. 

875.— BACON,  TO  MAKE. 

Rub  the  bacon  with  a  little  common 
salt,  and  let  them  lie  till  the  brine  runs 
from  them ;  in  a  week  rub  off  all  the  salt, 
and  put  them  in  a  tub,  then  rub  into  the 
flitches  a  pound  of  saltpetre  pounded  and 
heated,  the  next  day  do  the  same  with 
common  salt,  also  heated  ;  let  them  lie  a 
week,  often  rubbing  them  ;  do  the  same 
for  three  weeks  or  a  month,  at  the  end 
of  that  time  dry  and  hang  them  up  for 
use. 

876.— BACON  AND  CABBAGE. 

Boil  some  fine  streaked  part  of  bacon 
with  a  little  stock,  and  the  ends  of  eight 
or  ten  sausages,  boil  in  the  same  stock 
some  white  cabbages  for  two  hours  ;  add 
salt  and  spice,  and  serve  very  hoi ;  place 
your  sausages  and  cabbage  round  your 
dish,  and  the  bacon  in  the  middle. 

877.— MOCK  BEAWNS. 

Put  four  feet,  two  ears,  and  two  chops 
of  a  pig  into  two  quarts  of  water,  and  let 
it  boil  for  several  hours,  till  the  bones  can 
be  picked  from  the  meat ;  then  pour  it 
into  a  basin ;  skim  off  the  fat.  and  take 
away  all  the  bones  ;  put  it  again  into  a 
saucepan  with  a  little  chopped  parsley 
and  sweet  herbs,  dried  and  rubbed  small, 
cayenne  pepper,  salt,  and  pounded  mace, 
let  it  boil  for  'ten  minutes  ;  dip  a  mould 
into  cold  water,  pour  in  the  mixture ;  let  it 
get  cool;  turn  out,  and  garnish  with 
parsley  and  barberries,  or  slices  of  lemon. 

878.— EXCELLENT"  SAUSAGE  CAKES. 

Chop  some  lean  pork  very  fine,  having 
previously  detached  all  the  skin  and 


PORK. 


335 


bone,  and  to  every  pound  of  meat  add 
three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  fat  bacon, 
half  an  ounce  of  salt,  a  salt-spoonful  of 
pepper,  the  quarter  of  a  nutmeg  grated, 
six  young  green  chopped  onions,  and  a 
little  chomped  pacsley ;  when  the  whole 
is  well  chopped,  put  into  a  mortar  and 
pound  well,  finishing  with  three  eggs  ; 
then  have  ready  a  pig's  caul,  which  cut 
into  pieces  large  enough  to  fold  a  piece 
of  the  above  preparation  the  size  of  an 
egg,  which  wrap  up,  keeping  the  shape 
of  an  egg,  but  rather 'flattened,  and  broil 
very  gently  over  a  moderate  fire. 

879.— PIGS1  FEET.    (Soyer.) 

Procure  six  pigs'  feet  nicely  salted, 
which  boil  in  water,  to  which  you  have 
added  a  few  vegetables,  until  well  done, 
cut  each  one  in  halves,  take  out  the  long 
bone,  have  some  sausage-meat  as  in  the 
last,  and  a  pig's  caul,  which  cut  into 
pieces  each  large  enough  to  fold  half  a 
foot,  well  surrounded  with  sausage-meat ; 
when  well  wrapped  up  broil  slowly  half 
an  hour  over  a  moderate  fire,  and  serve. 
Or,  when  the  pigs'  feet  are  well  broiled, 
egg  over,  and  throw  them  into  some 
grated  crust  of  bread,  with  which  you 
have  mixed  a  little  parsley,  broil  a  nice 
color,  and  serve  with  a  little  plain  gravy. 
This  is  called  a  la  Ste.  Menehould. 

880.— PIGS'  KIDNEYS. 

Cut  them  open  lengthwise,  season  well 
with  pepper  and  salt,  egg  over  with  a 
paste  brush,  dip  into  bread-crumbs*  with 
which  you  have  mixed  some  chopped 
parsley  and  eschalot,  run  a  skewer 
through  to  keep  them  open,  and  broil  for 
about  a  quarter  of  an  hour  over  a  'good 
fire  ;  when  done  place  them  upon  a  dish, 
have  ready  an  ounce  of  butter,  with 
which  you  have  mixed  the  juice  of  a 
lemon,  a  little  pepper  and  salt,  and  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  French  or  common  mustard  ; 
place  a  piece  upon  each  of  the  kidneys, 


place  in  the  oven  for  one  minute,  and 
serve.  Pigs'  kidneys  may  also  be  sauted 
as  directed  for  ox  kidneys. 

DISHES  FROM  THE  REMAINS  OP  PORK. 

881.— HASHED  POEK. 

Put  two  spoonfuls  of  chopped  onions 
into  a  stewpan,  with  a  wineglassful  of 
vinegar,  two  cloves,  a  blade  of  mace,  and 
a  bay-leaf;  reduce  to  half,  take  out  the 
spice  and  bay-leaf,  add  half  a  pint  of 
broth  or  water,  cut  some  pork  previously 
cooked  into  thin,  small  slices,  season  well 
upon  a  dish  with  pepper  and  salt,  shake 
a  good  teaspoonful  of  flour  over,  mix  all 
together,  and  put  into  the  stewpan  ;  let 
simmer  gently  ten  minutes,  pour  out 
upon  your  dish,  and  serve  with  slices  of 
gherkins  in  it ;  a  little  mustard  may  be 
added,  if  approved  of.  or  a  little  piccalilly 
with  the  vinegar  is  excellent. 

The  remains  of  salt  pork,  though  very 
palatable  cold,  if  required  hot,  may  be 
cut  into  large  thin  slices,  and  placed  in  a 
buttered  saute  or  fryingpan,  with  a  little 
broth,  or  merely  fried  in  the  bntter,  and 
served  with  a  puree  of  winter  peas,  made 
by  boiling  half  a  pint  of  peas  until  ten- 
der ^tied  up  in  a  cloth);  when  done,  put 
them  into  a  stewpan  with  two  ounces  of 
butter ;  season  with  pepper  and  salt,  add 
a  gill  of  milk  or  cream,  pour  into  the 
dish,  and  dress  the  pork  over. 

It  may  also  be  cut  into  thin  slices  and 
put  into  a  soup  plate,  and  pour  some 
ketchup  or  Harvey  sauce  over  it,  and  let 
it  remain  for  half  an  hour ;  butter  the 
inside  of  a  pudding  basin,  and  lay  some 
of  the  remains  of  peas  pudding  round  it, 
and  then  place  in  the  pork,  cover  it  with 
some  of  the  pudding,  place  it  in  a  sauce- 
pan with  a  little  water  to  get  hot,  for 
about  half  an  hour,  and  then  turn  it  out 
and  serve.  Should  you  not  have  quite 
pork  enou.;h,  you  may  make  it  up  with 
a  little  sausage-meat  or  any  other  kind 
of  meat. 


336 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


882.— FKITADELLA.  (Twenty  receipts  in  one.) 
Put  half  a  pound  of  crumb  of  bread 
to  soak  in  a  pint  of  cold  water,  take  the 
same  quantity  of  any  kind  of  roast  or 
boiled  meat,  with  a  little  fat,  chop  it  up 
like  sausage-meat,  then  put  your  bread 
in  a  clean  cloth,  press  it  to  extract  all 
the  water,  put  into  a  stewpan  two  ounces 
of  butter,  a  table-spoonful  of  chopped 
onions,  fry  for  two  minutes,  then  add  the 
bread ;  stir  with  a  wooden  spoon  until 
rather  dry,  then  add  the  meat,  season 
with  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  half  the  same 
of  pepper,  a  little  grated  nutmeg,  the 
same  of  lemon-peel,  stir  continually  until 
very  hot ;  then  add  two  eggs,  one  at  a 
time,  well  mix  together,  and  pour  on  a 
dish  to  get  cold.  Then  take  a  piece  as 
big  as  a  small  egg,  and  roll  it  to  the 
same  shape,  flatten  it  a  little,  egg  and 
bread-crumb  over,  keeping  the  shape ;  do 
all  of  it  the  same  way ;  then  put  into  a 
saute-pan,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  lard, 
or  clean  fat;  or  oil;  when  hot,  but  not 
too  much  so,  put  in  the  pieces,  and  saute 
a  very  nice  yellow  color,  and  serve  very 
tot,  plain,  on  a  napkin,  or  on  a  border  of 
mashed  potatoes,  with  any  sauce  or  gar- 
niture you  fancy.  These  can  be  made 
with  the  remains  of  any  kind  of  meat, 
poultry,  game,  fish,  and  even  vegetables ; 
hard  eggs,  or  cold  mashed  potatoes  may 
be  introduced  in"  small  quantities,  and 
may  be  fried  instead  of  sauted,  in  which 
case  put  about  two  pounds  of  fat  in  the 
frying-pan,  and  if  care  is  used  it  will  do 
several  times.  This  is  an  entirely  new 
and  very  economical  and  palatable  dish, 
and  fit  for  all  seasons,  and  if  once  tried 
would  be  often  repeated ;  the  only  ex- 
pense attending  it  is  the  purchase  of.  a 
small  wire  sieve  for  the  bread-crumbs. 
The  reason  I  call  it  twenty  receipts  in 
one  is,  that  all  kinds  of  food  may  be 
used  for  it,  even  shrimps,  oysters,  and 
lobsters. 

882.— BAMIFOLLE. 

These  are  a  little  more  expensive  than 


the  fritadella,  and  worthy  the  table  of  a- 
crowned  head.  The  flesh  of  fowls  in- 
stead of  lamb  or  veal,  with  the  addition, 
of  one  or  two  fat  livers  cut  in  dice. 
Proceed  as  in  the  former  receipt,  using 
the  crumb  of  French  rolls,  ^and  one  or 
two  truffles  cut  fine :  then  make  some 
pancake  batter,  and  saute  two  pancakes 
about  one-eighth  of  an  inch  thick,  Cover 
one  with  the  meat.  &c.,  and  lay  the  other 
over,  and  put  by  until  cold ;  when  so, 
cut  them  to  any  shape  you  like,  but  if 
like  cutlets  add  the  small  bone  of  fowl 
or  pigeon,  or  the  stalk  of  a  sprig  of  pars- 
ley; egg  and  bread-crumb  them,  and 
saute  them  in  oil  or  lard  of  a  nice  yel- 
low color,  and  dish  them  like  cutlets, 
with  any  of  the  sauces  or  garnitures  de- 
scribed for  mutton  cutlets  ;  or  if  plain, 
with  fried  parsley.  They  may  be  made 
of  any  kind  of  meat,  fish,  or  poultry. 
I  have  latterly  had  them  sent  up  to  table 
when  we  have  had  a  few  friends,  and 
they  have  been  very  much  liked;  and, 
on  inquiring  the  name,  I  baptized  them 
Ramifolle,  'without  any  particular  mean- 
ing, which  name  having  pleased  as  much 
as  the  dish,  therefore  let  them  be  called 
Ramifolles. 

They  may  be  made  a  plainer  way 
with  various  meats  or  liver,  and  spread 
over  one  pancake,  which  roll  over,  and 
when  cold  cut  it  into  three  equal  lengths, 
egg,  bread-crumb,  and  saute  as  above. 

884— PKUSSIAN  CUTLHTS. 

Take  a  piece  of  veal,  say  one  pound, 
from  any  part  of  the  calf,  free  from  nerve, 
with  a  little  fat,  chop  it  up.  but  not  too 
fine,  add  to  it  two  teaspoonfuls  of  chop- 
ped eschalot,  one  of  salt,  half  a  one  of 
pepper,  a  little  grated  nutmeg,  chop  it  a 
little  more,  and  make  it  into  pieces  of 
the  size  of  two  walnuts,  to  which  give 
the  shape  of  a  cutlet ;  egg  and  bread- 
crumb each ;  insert  a  small  bone  at  the 
small  end,  saut6  it  in  fat,  oil,  lard,  or 
butter,  give  it  ten  minutes  on  a  slow  fire 


SAUSAGES. 


337 


till  a  nice  brown  color,  dish  and  serve 
with  demi-glaze  sauce,  in  which  you  have 
put  a  spoonful  of  Harvey's,  and  serve 
with  any  brown  or  white  sauce  of  stew- 
ed vegetables  you  like.  Any  kind  of 
meat  may  be  used.  * 

885.— CUTLETS  A  LA  VICTIME,  OE  VICTIM- 
IZED CUTLETS, 

Invented  by  a  culinary  artist  in  the 
time  of  Louis  XVIII,  of  France,  at  the 
.palace  of  the  Tuileries,  and  first  partaken 
of  by  that  intellectual  monarch  and 
gourmet,  who,  at  the  end  of  his  stormy 
reign,  through  a  serious  illness,  was  com- 
pletely paralyzed.  The  functionary  or- 
gans of  his  digestion  were  much  out  of 
order ;  being  a  man  of  great  corpulence, 
and  a  great  admirer  of  the  festive  board, 
much  food  was  required  to  satisfy  his 
royal  appetite  :  and  the  difficulty  which 
his  physicians  experienced  was  to  supply 
this  want  of  food  in  the  smallest  com- 
pass. The  head-cook,  on  being  consult- 
ed, begged  a  few  hours  for  reflection  be- 
fore he  could  give  an  answer  to  so  im- 
portant a  question,  as  nothing  but  mut- 
ton entirely  deprived  of  fat  was  to  com- 
pose his  Majesty's  meal.  After  profound 
study  by  the  chief  and  his  satellites,  a 
voice  was  heard  from  the  larder,  which 
was  a  considerable  ways  from  the  kitchen, 
crying,  "I  have  found  it,  I  have  found 
it."  It  was  that  of  a  young  man  of  the 
name  of  Alphonse  Pottier,  who,  in  say- 
ing so,  made  his  appearance  in  the 
kitchen  with  three  beautiful  mutton  cut- 
lets tastefully  trimmed  and  tied  together ; 
he  then,  with  a  small  skewer,  fastened 
them  to  a  spit,  and  placed  them,  to  the 
astonishment  of  all  present,  close  to  the 
bars  of  the  grate :  two  of  the  cutlets 
soon  got  brown  (observe,  not  a  word 
was  to  be  said  until  the  trial  was  made), 
from  brown  they  soon  turned  black; 
every  one  gazed  at  each  other  with  as- 
tonishment, whilst  Pottier,  with  quite  a 
composed  countenance,  terminated  his 


scientific  experiment,  took  them  off  the 
spit,  drew  the  skewer  out,  cut  the  string, 
threw  the  two  burnt  cutlets  away,  and 
merely  served  the  middle  one,  which 
seems  to  have  received  all  the  nutriment 
of  the  other  two ;  it  was  served,  and 
greatly  approved  of  by  the  physicians, 
as  well  as  by  the  gourmet  potentate, 
who,  in  consequence  of  two  being  sacri- 
ficed for  one,  named  it,  "  Cutlet  a  la  Vic- 
time,"  and  often  afterwards  used  to  par- 
take of  them  when  in  the  enjoyment  of 
health. 

886.-CUTLET  A  LA  VICTIME. 

Cut  three  cutlets  frc^m  the  neck  of 
mutton,  about  half  an  inch  thick,  trim 
on«  very  nicely,  free  from  fat,  leave  the 
other  two  as  cut  off,  put  the  trimmed 
one  between  the  two,  flatten  them  to- 
gether, "so  that  the  fat  of  the  outside 
ones  meet  over  the  middle  one;  the 
them  together  thus,  and  broil  over  a  very 
strong  fire  for  ten  minutes ;  remove  it 
from  the  fire,  cut  the  string,  and  dish  up 
the  middle  one  only  on  a  very  hot  dish, 
with  a  little  salt  sprinkled  over  it.  If 
wanted  roasted,  proceed  as  above. 


SAUSAGES  AND  FOKCE- 
MEAT. 

887.— SAUSAGES. 

IN  making  sausages  there  is  so  great 
a  variety  of  both  meat  and  condiments, 
that  the  cook  need  not  be  tied  down  to 
any  rule  of  composition.  The  usual  mode 
is  to  put  the  preparation  into  the  cleaned 
skins  of  the  entrail-puddings  of  the 
smaller  animals ;  in  which  the  sausages, 
being  always  well  seasoned,  will  keep 
sound  for  a  few  days,  and  are  then  broil- 
ed as  a  garnish  for  large  dishes,  or  fried 
for  breakfast.  As  these  skin^  are,  how- 
ever, not  always  to  be  found,  the  sau- 
sage meat  may  then  be  bound  together 


338 


THE   PRACTICAL    HOUSEKEEPER. 


with  the  yolk  of  egg  and  bread-crumbs, 
made  into  the  form  of  sausages,  or  as 
croquettes  of  any  small  size ;  then  flour- 
ed, nicely  warmed,  and  browned  in  the 
frying-pan  or  Dutch  oven  until  perfectly 
done. 

If  more  be  made  than  is  wanted  for 
immediate  use,  it  may  be  put  away  in  a 
cool  place,  packed  closely  down,  in  a 
stone  jar,  and  securely  covered  for  some 
other  occasion.  For  the  spicing  of  sau- 
sages no  rule  can  be  laid  down,  as  tastes 
and  custom  are  constantly  varying. 

888.— COMMON  SAUSAGE-MEAT. 

Take  any  quantity  of  lean  beef  or 
pork,  with  half  the  quantity  of  fat.  and 
having  freed  the  lean  of  every  particle  1)f 
skiq,  sinew,  and  gristle,  then  mince  both 
it  and  the  fat  as  fine  as  possible ;  putting 
to  each  pound  of  meat  a  large  teaspoon- 
ful  of  pepper  and  the  same  quantity  of 
salt;  strew  this  on  the  meat,  and  mix 
the  whole  thoroughly  together,  as  a 
stock  for  further  seasoning. 

Take  six  pounds  of  meat,  fat  and  lean  ; 
cut  the  fat  into  small  pieces,  and  pound 
the  lean  portion  in  a  mortar,  with  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  salt,  one  of  moist 
sugar,  a  teaspoonful  of  saltpetre,  and  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  mixed  spices.  To  this 
may  be  added  the  grated  peel  of  a  lem- 
on, and  a  small  portion  of  sage  and 
thyme,  well  chopped. 

Or  : — To  the  meat  of  a  leg  of  pork  of 
about  four  pounds'  weight,  add  two 
pounds  of  fat  from  the  fore  loin,  chop 
both  very  fine;  then  add  two  nutmegs 
grated,  twenty  cloves,  a  teaspoonful  of 
pounded  or  grated  lemon-peel,  two  or 
three  blades  of  mace  pounded,  one  ounce 
of  the  best  salt,  and  one-half  ounce  of 
black  pepper ;  mix  all  together  and  stuff 
it  into  the  skins,  which  should  be  well 
cleansed,  and  salted  the  night  before. 
This  sausage-meat  would  be  much  im- 
proved for  immediate  use,  by  pounding 


the  meat  and  mixing  it  with  a  third  por- 
tion of  white  bread  soaked  in  milk  and 
also  pounded,  blending  the  whole  to- 
gether with  a  beaten  egg. 

889.— BEEF  -SAUSAGES,  , 
Though  not  nearly  so  good  as  those  of 
pork,  yet,  if  made  at  home,  may  be  found 
a  pleasant  and  economical  mode  of  using 
the  scraps  of  raw  meat.  Proceed  as  for 
pork  sausages. 

890.— MUTTON  SAUSAGES. 

Take  a  pound  of  undressed  mutton,  or 
that  which  has  been  underdone,  chop  it 
very  small,  and  season  it  with  pepper, 
salt,  and  beaten  mace.  Chop  also  half 
a  pound  of  beef  suet,  two  anchovies,  a 
pint  of  oysters,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
grated  bread,  and  a  boiled  onion ;  mix 
the  whole  with  the  oyster  liquor,  and 
the  whites  and  yolks  of  two  eggs  well 
beaten ;  pound  the  whole  in  a  mortar. 
Roll  into  lengths,  corks,  or  balls,  and  fry 
them. 

891.— AN  EXCELLENT  SAUSAGE  TO  EAT 
COLD. 

Season  fat  and  lean  pork  with  some 
salt,  saltpetre,  black  pepper,  and  allspice, 
all  in  fine  powder,  and  rub  into  the  meat ; 
the  sixth  day  cut  it  small,  and  mix  with 
it  some  shred  shalot,  or  garlic,  as  fine  as 
possible.  Have  ready  an  ox-gut  that 
has  been  scoured,  sailed,  and  soaked  well, 
and  fill  it  with  the  above  stuffing ;  tie 
up  the  ends,  and  hang  it  to  smoke  as  you 
would  hams,  but  first  wrap  it  in  a  fold 
or  two  of  old  muslin.  It  must  be  high- 
dried.  Some  eat  it  without  boiling,  but 
others  like  it  boiled  first.  The  skin 
should  be  tied  in  different  places,  so  as 
to  make  each  link  about  eight  or  nine 
inches  long. 

892.— OYSTEE  SAUSAGES. 
Take  one  pound  of  veal  anrl  a  score  of 
oysters  bearded,  then  pound  the  veal  very 
finely  in  a  mortar  with  a  little  suet,  sea- 


SAUSAGES. 


339 


son  with  a  little  pepper,  soak  a  piece  of 
bread  in  the  'oyster-liquor,  pound,  and 
add  it  with  the  oysters  cut  in  pieces  to 
the  veal ;  beat  up  an  egg  to  bind  them 
together,  and  roll  them  into  little  lengths, 
like  sausages ;  fry  them  in  butter  a  deli- 
cate brown. 

Or : — Take  half  a  pound  of  lean  mut- 
ton or  beef,  with  three-quarters  of  a 
pound  of  beef  suet,  and  two  score  of 
oysters  bearded.  Mince  the  whole  and 
add  bread-crumbs,  with  two  yolks  of 
eggs  to  bind  the  materials  together. 
Season  with  salt,  white  pepper,  a  little 
mace,  and  mushroom  powder. 

Put  it  either  in  skins,  or  fry  the  sau- 
sage-meat of  a  light  brown  in  small 
pieces. 

893— VEAL  AND  POULTRY  SAUSAGES. 

Sausages  may  also  be  made  of  the  re- 
mains of  veal,  turkey,  or  fowl,  which 
have  been  dressed.  Of  either  of  these 
put  equal  quantities  of  meat  and  bread- 
crumbs, with  half  that  of  ham,  seasoned 
with  parsley,  lemon-thyme,  and  chives. 
Mix  the  materials  with  a  little  pepper, 
salt,  and  pounded  mace,  the  yolk  of  an 
egg,  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  flour; 
make  it  up  as  saugages  or  small  rolls  to 
garnish  fricassees  or  minced  meat,  t>r  as 
a  nice  supper  dish,  piled  round  a  sweet- 
bread. 

Or: — Chop  equal  quantities  of  lean 
veal  and  fat  bacon,  a  handful  of  sage,  a 
little  salt  »nd  pepper,  and  a  few  ancho- 
vies, beat  all  in  a  mortar ;  and  when  used, 
roll  and  fry  it,  and  serve  it  with  fried 
sippets,  or  on  stewed  vegetables,  or  on 
white  collops. 

894.— FOWL  OK  BABBIT  SAUSAGES. 

Take  the  remains  of  a  fowl,  rabbit,  or 
hare ;  when  boiled  or  roasted,  free  it 
from  the  bones,  and  cut  it  small.  Boil 
som'e  onions  in  strong  gravy  ;  when  the 
onions  are  quite  soft  pound  them,  season 


with  salt,  pepper,  parsley,  two  cloves, 
and  a  blade  of  mace ;  pound  the  meat 
also,  cut  some  bacon  into  small  pieces, 
and  add  it.  Mix  up  these  ingredients 
with  the  yolk  of  an  egg,  add  a  little 
lemon-juice  or  lemon-pickle,  or  chop  a 
little  sorrel  with  the  herbs,  fill  the  skins, 
and  broil  them. 

Such  are  the  sausages  usually  made 
in  this  country,  and  most  commonly 
eaten  fresh ;  but,  in  Europe,  many  sorts 
are  made  of  a  rather  large  size,  sea- 
soned in  different  modes,  and  smoked, 
with  the  intention  of  keeping  them  good 
for  a  long  time,  as  the  Brunswick,  Bay- 
onne,  and  Bologna,  which  may  always 
be  found  in  the  foreign  oil-shops  in  Eng- 
land. There  is,  however,  another  kind, 
which  we  Jo  not  recollect  to  have  ever 
seen  in  London,  though  constantly  used 
throughout  the  peninsula. 

895.— SPANISH  AND  PORTUGUESE  SAU- 
SAGES 

Are  made  from  the  fat  and  lean  of  the 
back  and  loins  of  a  well-fed  two-year- 
old  hog,  cut  into  small  pieces  of  less  than 
half  an  inch  square,  and  then  either  fine- 
ly minced  or  pounded  together,  and 
strongly  seasoned  with  cloves  of  garlic 
and  green  or  red  capsicums  or  chilis ; 
but  as  these  cannot  always  be  conveni- 
ently procured  in  this  country,  cayenne 
pepper  may  be  substituted.  The  whole 
should  then  be  covered  with  any  sort  o* 
strong,  dry  wine,  until  absorbed  by  the 
ingredients,  which  will  occupy  perhaps  a 
few  days,  according  to  the  quantity. 

Fill  the  largest  skins  you  can  get  with 
the  meat,  fat  and  lean,  alternately,  occa- 
sionally adding  some  of  the  wine.  Tie 
up  in  links,  and-  hang  them  in  a  room 
where  they  will  not  get  damp  or  become 
too  dry,  and  they  will  keep  twelve 
months. 

They  are  sometimes  fried,  and  eaten 
either  alone  or  as  a  relish  with  poultry, 
but  more  frequently  put  into  stews ;  and, 


340 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


in  Spain,  always   boiled  along  with  the 
olla,  under  the  name  of  "  Ghorisos" 

896.— BLACK  PUDDINGS. 

The  blood  must  be  stirred  with  salt  till 
cold.  Put  a  quart  of  it;  or  rather  more, 
^to  a  quart  of  whole  grits,  to  soak  one 
night ;  and  soak  the  crumb  of  a  wheat 
loaf  in  rather  more  than  two  quarts  of 
new  milk  made  hot.  In  the  mean  time 
prepare  the  guts  b'y  washing,  turning,  and 
scraping,  with  salt  and  water,  and  chang- 
ing the  water  several  times.  Chop  fine 
a  little  winter  savory  and  thyme,  a  good 
quantity  of  pennyroyal,  pepper,  and  salt, 
a  few  cloves,  some  allspice,  ginger,  and 
nutmeg ;  mix  these  with  three  pounds  of 
beef  suet,  and  six  eggs  well  beaten  and 
strained  ;  and  then  beat  the  bread,  grits, 
&c.,  all  up  with  the  seasoning ;  when  well 
mixed,  have  ready  some  hog's  fat  cut  into 
dice,  and,  as  you  fill  the  skins,  put  it  in 
at  proper  distances.  Tie  in  links  only 
half  filled,  and  boil  in  a  large  kettle, 
pricking  them  as  they  swell,  or  they  will 
burst.  When  boiled,  lay  them  between 
clean  clothes,  or  upon  straw,  till  cold,  and 
hang  them  up  in  the  kitchen.  When  to 
be  u^ed,  scald  them  a  few  minutes  in 
water ;  wipe,  and  put  them  into  a  Dutch 
oven. 

If  there  are  not  skins  enough,  put  the 
stuffing  into  basins,  and  boil  it  covered 
with  floured  cloths ;  and  slice  and  fry  it 
when  used. 

Or :—  Soak  all  night  a  quart  of  bruised 
grits  in  as  much  boiling  hot  milk  as  will 
swell  them,  and  leave  half  a  pint  of  liquid. 
Chop  a  good  quantity  of  pennyroyal, 
some  leaves  of  sage,  savory,  and  thyme, 
with  salt,  pepper,  and  allspice  finely  pow- 
dered. Mix  the  above  with  a  quart  of 
the  blood,  prepared  as  before  directed; 
then  half  fill  the  skins,  after  they  have 
been  cleaned  thoroughly,  and  put  as  much 
of  the  flare  (that  is,  the  inward  fat)  of  the 
pig  as  will  make  it  pretty  rich.  Boil  as 
before  directed.  A  small  quantity  of 


leeks,  finely  shred  and  we]l  mixed,  is  a 
great  improvement. 

897.- WHITE  PUDDINGS. 

To  two  parts  of  beef  suet  chopped,  add 
one  part  of  oatmeal  previously  toasted 
before  the  fire ;  boil  an  onion  or  two,  and 
'chop  them  with  pepper  and  salt ;  mix  the 
whole  well  together ;  put  the  ingredients 
into  skins,  and  boil  them  for  an  hour, 
pricking  Ihem  as  they  boil  to  prevent 
their  bursting.  *Chey  will  keep  for  some 
time  in  bran  after  they  have  been  allowed 
to  become  cold.  Parboil  them  when 
wanted,  and'  then  broil  them  on  a  grid- 
iron. 

The  quantity  of  suet  may  seem  dispro- 
portioned  to  the  oatmeal;  but  unless 
there  are  two-thirds  of  the  former  to  one 
of  the  latter,  the  puddings  will  be  dry 
and  fat.  They  require  to  be  highly  sea- 
soned with  pepper  and  onions. 


FOBCEMEAT. 

French  cooks  pride  themselves,  and 
very  justly,  on  the  pains  which  they  be- 
stow on  the  elaboration  of  their  force- 
meat, or  farce.  It  is  an  art  in  which 
they  have  attained  superior  excellence, 
but  in  which  there  is  no  great  difficulty. 

At  many  tables,  where  every  thing  else 
is  well  done,  it  is  common  to  find  very  bad 
stuffing,  which,  according  to  what  it  is 
wanted  for,  should  be  a  judicious  se- 
lection, observing  that  of  the  most  pun- 
gent articles  least  must  be  used.  A  gen- 
eral fault  is,  that  the  tastes  of  lemon- 
peel  and  thyme  overcome  all  others, 
therefore  they  should  only  be  used  in 
small  quantities;  and  except  in  a  few 
very  savory  dishes,  cayenne,  and  pepper 
of  all  kinds  should  be  sparingly  used. 
No  one  flavor  should  predominate  great- 
ly >  yet  if  several  dishes  be  served  the 
same  day,  there  should  be  a  marked  va- 


FORCEMEAT. 


341 


riety  in  the  tastes  of  the  forcemeats  as 
well  as  of  the  gravies. 

The  forcemeat  should  be  consistent 
enough  to  be  cut  with  a  knife,  but  not 
dry  and  heavy.  Herbs  are  a  very  essen- 
tial ingredient,  and  it  is  the  copious  but 
judicious  use  of  them  that  chiefly  gives 
the  cookery  of  the  French  its  superior 
flavor.  "  •  i  •" 

Bacon  or  butter  must  always  be  sub- 
stituted for  suet  when  the  forcemeat  is 
to  be  eaten  cold. 

The  flavor  given  to  the  bread,  or  panada, 
is  considered  to  be  of  great  importance, 
and  the  highest  point  of  perfection  may 
be  obtained  by  attending  to  the  following 
directions : — 

898.— HOW  TO  MAKE  QUENELLES  OF 
FOECEMEAT. 

Have  two  table-spoons,  dessert  or  tea- 
spoons, according  to  the  size  you  intend 
making  quenelles  ;  fill  one  of  them  with 
the  forcemeat ;  dip  the  other  spoon  into 
boiling  water,  and  with  it  remove  the 
forcemeat  from  the  first  spoon,  and  slip 
it  from  that  into  a  buttered  saute-pan, 
proceeding  thus  until  you  have  as  many 
as  you  require ;  then  cover  them  with 
some  second  stock,  and  boil  them  about 
ten  minutes,  or  until  firm,  and  they  are 
ready  for  use. 

809.— PANADA  FOE  FOECEMEATS. 

Put  two-thirds  of  half  a  pint  of  water 
into  a  stewpan  holding  a  quart,  with  near- 
ly an  ounce  of  butter ;  when  boiling,  stir 
in  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  flour ;  keep  it 
moving  over  the  fire  until  it  forms  a 
smooth  and  toughish  paste  ;  take  it  out 
of  the  stewpan,  and  when  cold,  use  it 
where  directed. 

900.— STUFFING  FOE  VEAL. 

Chop  up  half  a  pound  of  beef  suet  very 
fine ;  put  it  in  a  basin,  with  eight  ounces 
of  bread-crumbs,  a  table-spoonful  of 
chopped  parsley,  a  little  powdered  thyme 

22 


and  marjoram,  half  the  rind  of  a  lemon 
grated,  and  the  juice  of  half  a  one ;  sea- 
son with  a  spoonful  of  salt,  and  a  quarter 
one  of  pepper,  and  one- quarter  of  a  nut- 
meg ;  mix  the  whole  with  three  whole 
eggs ;  this  will  do  also  to  stuff  turkey  or 
baked  fish,  adding  some  more  chopped 
parsley. 

901.— STUFFING-  FOE  HAEE  OE  TURKEY. 
Take  half  a  pound  of  beef  suet  chopped 
very  fine,  some  parsley,  a  little  thyme, 
pepper,  salt,  and  spices,  the  same  quantity 
of  crumbs  of  bread  as  of  suet,  an  egg  or 
two,  and  mix  the  whole  with  a  little 
milk.  It  would  not  be  amiss  to  put  to 
it  a  very  small  bit  of  butter,  and  to  pound 
the  whole  in  a  mortar  for  a  short  time. 
This  stuffing  may  be  used  with  baked 
pike,  or  with  either  roasted  or  boiled 
turkey,  roasted  hare,  &c. ;  in  short,  with 
all  such  articles  as  will  be  mentioned  in 
this  work.  If  the  taste  of  shalot  is  not 
objected  to,  it  will  be  found  to  add  to  the 
flavor  of  the  stuffing.  If  you  do  not  like 
to  put  it  into  the  mortar,  take  the  roll- 
ing-pin and  mix  it  with  it  on  the  table, 
which  is  a  better  method. 


CUEING  MEAT,  POTTING, 
AND  COLLARING. 

902.--CUEING. 

In  salting  all  meat,  care  should  be  taken 
to  remove  the  kernels,  otherwise  it  will 
soon  become  tainted.  It  should  be  sprin- 
kled with  a  handful  of  common  salt  to 
fetch  out  the  blood,  the  brine  thrown  away 
on  the  following  day,  and  the  meat  wiped 
with  a  dry  cloth ;  it  is  then  ready  to  be 
cured  in  any  of  the  undermentioned  ways. 
Too  much  care  cannot  be  taken  in  the 
first  salting  to  rub  between  every  muscle 
or  under  every  flap  of  the  meat ;  as  for 
want  of  this  care  it  may  have  an  un- 
pleasant taste,  though  sufficiently  salted. 


342 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER 


The  brine  will  serve  again,  by  being 
boiled  and  skimmed,  which  may  be  re- 
peated as  long  as  any  scum  will  rise. 
Hams  should  be  laid  with  the  rind-side 
downwards :  and  it  is  a  good  plan  to  heat 
a  quarter  peck  of  common  salt  in  a  fry- 
ing-pan, and  lay  it  at  the  bottom  of  the 
pan.  A  small  quantity  of  saltpetre  is 
necessary  to  produce  the  fine  red  color 
either  in  ham  or  beef;  but  much  will 
make  the  meat  hard,  and  the  proportions 
of  sugar  and  salt  should  be  varied  accord- 
ing to  the  preference  given  to  highly- 
salted  provisions,  or  those  which  are  cured 
milder. 

908.— TO  COEN  BEEF. 
A  Round  of  Beef  of  eighteen  or  twenty 
pounds*  weight. — Mix  an  ounce  and  a  half 
of  sal-prunella,  three  ounces  of  brown 
sugar,  half  an  ounce  of  black  pepper,  six 
ounces  of  fine  salt,  a  quarter  of  an  ounce 
of  cloves  pounded,  the  same  of  nutmeg, 
and  half  a  pound  of  common  salt:  take 
out  the  bone,  and  rub  the  piece  over  with 
common  salt :  let  it  remain  for  a  day  or 
two,  and  then  rub  into  it  the  above  in- 
gredients finely  powdered  and  thoroughly 
mixed ;  let  it  lie  a  fortnight,  and  turn  it 
daily.  It  should  then  be  hung  up  in  a 
dry  place ;  and,  if  possible,  smoked  till 
wanted  for  use,  when  it  should  be  either 
boiled  gently,  or  baked  in  a  deep  dish 
covered  with  coarse  paste. 

This,  it  may  however  be  observed,  is 
rather  a  superior  mode  ;  as  the  common 
way  is  merely  to  use  fine  salt,  with  occa- 
sionally a  little  saltpetre  to  give  a  tinge 
of  redness  to  the  meat,  which  is  seldom 
smoked,  except  for  very  large  joints. 
Many  persons,  indeed,  think  the  meat 
best  when  stewed  ;  in  which  case,  put  no 
more  water  in  the  pot  than  will  barely 
cover  the  meat,  and  keep  it  gently  sim- 
mering for  four,  five,  or  six  hours,  accord- 
ing to  the  size  of  the  joint. 

904.-TO  SALT  BEEF  BED. 

Choose  a  piece  of  beef  with  as  little 


xrae  as  you  can  (the  flank  is  the  best), 
sprinkle  it,  and  let  it  drain  a  day ;  then 
rub  it  with  common  salt,  a  small  propor- 
tion of  saltpetre,  fine  salt,  and  a  little 
coarse  sugar ;  you  may  add  a  few  grains 
of  cochineal,  all  in  fine  powder.  Rub  the 
pickle  every  day  into  the  meat  for  a  week, 
:hen  only  turn  it. 

It  will  be  excellent  in  eight  days.  In 
sixteen,  drain  it  from  the  pickle  ;  and  let 
t  be  smoked  at  the  oven's  mouth  when 
heated  with  wood,  or  send  it  to  the 
baker's.  A  few  days  will  smoke  it.  It 

extremely  good  eaten  fresh  from  the 
pickle,  boiled  tender  with  greens  or  car- 
rots. If  to  be  grated,  then  cut  a  lean 
bit;  boil  it  till  extremely  tender,  and 
while  hot,  put  it  under  a  press.  When 
cold,  fold  it  in  a  sheet  of  paper,  and  it 
will '  keep  in  a  dry  place  two  or  three 
months,  ready  for  serving  on  bread  and 
butter. 

905.— THE  DUTCH  WAY  TO  SALT  BEEF. 

Take  a  lean  piece  of  beef;  rub  it  well 
with  treacle  or  brown  sugar,  and  turn  it 
often.  In  three  days  wipe  it,  an<J  salt  it 
with  common  salt  and  saltpetre  beaten 
fine ;  rub  them  well  in,  and  turn  it  every 
day  for  a  fortnight.  Roll  it  tight  in  a 
coarse  cloth,  and  press  it  under  a  heavy 
weight ;  hang  to  dry  in  wood-smoke ;  but 
turn  it  upside  down  every  day.  Boil  it 
in  pump  water,  and  press  it ;  it  will  grate 
or  cut  into  shivers,  and  makes  a  good 
breakfast  dish. 

To  twelve  pounds  of  beef  the  proportion 
of  common  salt  is  one  pound. 

906.— SPICED  BEEF. 

Make  a  brine  with  half  a  pound  of  salt, 
half  an  ounce  of  saltpetre,  half  a  pound 
of  sugar,  thirty  cloves,  as  many  allspice 
and  black  peppercorns,  six  bay-leaves; 
crack  the  spice ;  put  it  on  to  boil  for  a 
few  minutes  in  a  pint  of  water ;  when 
cold,  pour  it  over  a  piece  of  beef  about 
ten  pounds.  Turn  it  every  day  for  a  fort- 
night 


CUEING   MEAT. 


343 


When  required  for  use,  put  the  beef 
into  a  deep  pan  with  the  brine,  a  little 
water,  and  about  one  pound  of  suet.  Bake 
it  until  tender;  let  it  get  cold  in  the 
brine. 

907.— HUNG  BEEF,  (the  Derrynane  Eeceipt.) 

Rub  the  beef  well  with  salt  and  salt- 
petre, in  the  proportion  of  .two  ounces  of 
saltpetre  and  seven  pounds  of  salt  to 
fifty  pounds  of  beef.  Put  the  beef  into 
a  cask  or  tub,  place  a  board  over  it,  and 
weights  upon  that ;  leave  it  so  for  about 
a  fortnight,  then  take  it  out  and  hang  it 
in  the  kitchen  to  dry,  which  will  gene- 
rally take  about  three  weeks.  Some 
persons  leave  it  for  a  longer  time  in  the 
tub,  which  they  merely  cover  without 
the  weight  ;  but  the  above  is  the  better 
way. 

908.— TO  CURE  TONGUES. 

Neats'  tongues  cured  with  the  whole 
root  on  look  much  larger,  but  have  not 
any  other  advantage,  being  too  hard  to 
cut  pleasantly  when  salted.  If  the  root 
is  to  be  removed,  cut  it  off  near  the  gul- 
let, but  without  taking  away  the  fat  that 
is  under  the  tongue.  The  root  must  be 
soaked  in  salt  and  water  a  night,  and  ex- 
tremely well  cleaned  before  it  be  dressed, 
when  it  is  very  good  stewed  with  gravy  ; 
or  it  may  be  salted  two  days,  and  used  for 
pea-soup.  Having  left  the  fat  and  a  little 
of  the  kernel  under  the  tongue,  sprinkle 
it  with  salt  and  let  it  drain  until  the 
next  day.  Then  for  each  tongue  mix  a 
large  spoonful  of  common  salt,  the  same 
quantity  of  coarse  sugar,  half  as  much 
saltpetre,  a  teaspoonful  of  ground  pep- 
per, and  two  cloves  of  garlic  or  shalot 
chopped  very  fine  ;  rub  it  well  in,  and  do 
so  every  day  for  a  week ;  then  add  an- 
other large  spoonful  of  salt.  If  rubbed 
daily,  a  tongue  will  be  ready  in  ten  days ; 
but  if  only  turned  in  the  pickle,  it  will 
not  be  too  salt  in  four  or  five  weeks,  but 


should  not  be  kept  longer.  When  to  be 
dried,  write  the  date  of  the  day  on 
parchment,  and  tie  it  on.  Smoke  three 
days,  or  hang  them  in  a  dry  place  with- 
out smoking.  When  to  be  dressed,  boil 
the  tongue  extremely  tender ;  allow  five 
hours,  and  if  done  sooner  it  is  easily  kept 
hot.  The  longer  it  is  kept  after  smoking, 
the  higher  will  be  the  flavor ;  but  in  the 
estimation  of  many  persons,  they  are 
best  dressed  out  of  the  pickle  ;  if  hard, 
it  may  require  soaking  four  or  five  hours. 

Or : — Put  the  tongue  into  an  earthen 
pan,  rub  into  it  a  table-spoonful  of  salt- 
petre, a  good  handful  of  salt,  and  the 
same  quantity  of  coarse  brown  sugar ; 
allow  the  tongue  to  remain  in  the  pickle 
for  three  weeks,  and  rub  it  over  every 
day.  Then  take  it  out  and  put  it  into 
the  meat-screen  before  tne  fire  for  two  or 
three  days,  till,  the  pickle  has  entirely 
drained  from  it.  Then  sprinkle  it  over 
with  bran,  and  hang  it  up  in  any  part  of 
the  kitchen  with  the  root-end  upper- 
most; sew  salt  tongues  up  in  coarse 
linen. 

909.— TO  CUBE  SHEEP'S  TONGUES 

Let  the  tongues  be  well  washed  and 
cleaned,  and  lay  them  in  spring  water  for 
half  an  hour.  Take  one  pound  of  salt, 
a  gill  of  molasses,  and  half  an  ounce  of 
saltpetre ;  rub  the  tongues  well  with  it, 
and  put  them  into  the  pickle :  a  week 
or  ten  days  will  be  sufficient  to  cure 
them. 

910.— FOE  CUEING  HAMS. 

Choose  the  leg  of  a  hog  that  is  fat  and 
well  fed,  as  well  as  of  a  certain  age  ;  for 
if  poor,  it  is  not  worth  curing,  and  if  not 
one  year  old  it  will  never  acquire  the  fine 
flavor  of  a  mellow  ham.  Sprinkle  it 
with  a  little  salt,  and  let  it  drain  for  a 
day ;  then  put  to  it  one  pound  each  of 
coarse  salt  and  the  coarsest  sugar,  with  a 


344 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


large  handful  of  common  salt  and  four 
ounces  of  saltpetre ;  rub  it  thoroughly 
with  this  ;  lay  the  rind  downwards,  and 
cover  the  fleshy  parts  with  the  salt,  with 
which  baste  it  frequently,  and  turn  it 
every  second  day.  Keep  it  in  this  for 
four  weeks,  then  drain  it  and  throw  bran 
over  it ;  hang  it  up  in  a  cool  place  to  dry, 
then  sew  it  up  in  a  coarse  linen  wrapper 
rubbed  with  lime,  and  do  not  dress  it 
until  full  three  months  old. 

The  better  way  is,  however,  to  smoke 
it.  In  country  places  this  is  not  uncom- 
monly done  by  hanging  it  in  a  kitchen 
chimney  where  wood  is  burnt,  or  in  any 
spare  chimney  where  a  smothering  fire 
can  be  kept  up,  made  of  wet  straw  and 
horse-litter,  with  sawdust  or  shavings; 
but  be  particular  to  have  them  of  oak^ 
for,  if  of  pine,  it  will  give  the  ham  a  bad 
flavor.  It  will  take  three  weeks'  smok- 
ing. 

Or : — Hang  the  ham,  and  sprinkle  it 
with  salt  as  above ;  then  rub  it  every 
day  with  the  following,  in  fine  powder : 
a  pound  of  common  salt  powdered  fine, 
two  ounces  of  salt-petre,  and  two  ounces 
of  black  pepper,  mixed  with  one  and 
a  half  pints  of  molasses. 

911.— ANOTHER  WAY,  THAT  GIVES  A 
*   HIGHER  FLAVOR. 

When  the  weather,  will  permit,  hang 
the  hani  three  days ;  mix  one  ounce  of 
saltpetre  with  half  a  pound  of  common 
salt,  and  also  of  coarse  sugar,  and  a  quart 
of  strong  beer;  boil  them  together,  and 
pour  them  immediately  upon  the  ham ; 
turn  it  twice  a-day  in  the  pickle  for  three 
weeks.  One  ounce  of  black  pepper,  and 
the  same  quantity  of  allspice,  in  fine 
powder,  added  to  the  above,  will  give 
still  more  flavor. 

^k.  Or  .-—Sprinkle  the  ham  with  salt,  af- 
ter it  has  hung  two  or  three  days  ;  let  it 
drain ;  make  a  pickle  of  a  quart*  of  strong 
beer,  half  a  pound  of  molasses,  one  ounce 


of  coriander-seeds,  two  ounces  of  juni- 
per-berries, one  ounce  of  pepper,  the 
same  quantity  of  allspice,  one  ounce  of 
saltpetre,  half  an  ounce  of  sal-prunella, 
a  handful  of  common  salt,  and  a  head  of 
shalot,  all  pounded  or  cut  fine.  Boil 
these  all  together  a  few  minutes,  and 
pour  them  over  the  ham :  this  quantity 
is  for  one  of  ten  pounds. 


912.— FITZSIMON  FAMILY  RECEIPT  FOR 
CURING  HAMS. 

Mix  one  ounce  of  saltpetre,  one  pound 
of  common  salt,  and  one  pound  of  coarse 
brown  sugar,  all  together,  and  rub  the 
ham  well.  Let  it  lie  for  a  month  in  this 
pickle,  turning  and  basting  it  every  dav  ; 
then  hang  it  in  wood-smoke  in  a  dry 
place,  where  no  heat  can  come  to  it,  and, 
if  to  be  kept  long,  hang  it  for  a  month 
or  two  in  a  damp  place,  and  it  will  eat 
firm  and  short.  Observe,  hams  thus 
made  need  not  be  soaked ;  put  them  into 
cold  water,  and  let  them  be  three  or  four 
hours  before  they  boil,  skimming  the  pot 
well  and  often  until  it  boils.  These 
hams  have  been  made  with  a  less  quan- 
tity of  salt  and  an  additional  quantity  of 
saltpetre,  and  it  has  been  found  to  an- 
swer well,  the  hams  being  in  that  case 
soaked  before  boiling. 

918.— WESTPHALIA  HAMS. 

Prepare  the  hams  in  the  usual  manner 
by  rubbing  them  with  common  salt  and 
draining  them ;  take  one  ounce  of  salt- 
petre, half  a  pound  of  coarse  sugar,  and 
the  same  quantity  of  salt ;  rub  it  well 
into  the  ham,  and  in  three  days  pour  a 
pint  of  vinegar  over  it.  A  fine  foreign 
flavor  may  also  be  given  to  hams  by 
pouring  old  strong  beer  over  them,  and 
burning  juniper-wood  while  they  are  dry- 
ing :  molasses,  juniper-berries,  and  high- 
ly-flavored herbs,  such  as  basil,  sage, 
bay- leaves,  and  thyme,  mingled  together 


CUEING  MEAT. 


34:5 


and  the  hams  well  rubbed  with  it.  using 
only  a  sufficient  quantity  of  salt  to  as- 
sist in  the  cure,  will  afford  an  agreeable 
variety. 

914.— MUTTON  HAM. 

Cut  a  hind  quarter  of  mutton  in  the 
shape  of  a  ham,  and  allow  it  to  hang  for 
two  or  three  days.  Mix  half  a  pound  of 
coarse  salt,  two  ounces  of  saltpetre,  half  a 
pound  of  common  salt,  and  half  a  pound 
of  coarse  sugar,  all  well  pounded  to- 
gether, and  make  them  quite  hot  before 
the  fire.  Then  rub  it  well  into  the  meat, 
turning  it  in  the  liquor  every  day  ;  after 
four  days  add  two  ounces  more  of  com- 
mon salt.  Let  it  remain  twelve  days  in 
the  brine,  then  take  it  out,  dry  it,  and 
hang  it  up  in  wood-smoke  for  a  week. 

Another  pickle  for  mutton-ham  may 
be  made  with  one  ounce  of  saltpetre  to 
one  pound  of  coarse  sugar,  and  one  pound 
of  salt ;  the  ham  to  be  kept  in  this 
pickle  for  a  fortnight,  then  rolled  in  saw- 
dust, and  hung  in  wood-smoke  for  four- 
teen days. 

915.— GOOSE  HAMS 

Are  made  by  splitting  the  goose  down 
the  back,  rubbing  it  with  a  quarter  of 
an  ounce  of  saltpetre,  and  then  salting  it 
well  with  common  salt  and  coarse  brown 
sugar ;  let  it  lie  in  pickle  for  ten  days  in 
summer  and  fourteen  in  winter,  rub  and 
turn  it  every  day,  roll  it  in  sawdust  and 
smoke  it. 

In  Pomerania,  on  the  shores  of  the 
Baltic,  where  vast  numbers  are  cured, 
the  breasts  are  prepared  separately  as 
hams,  and  being  much  dried  in  smoking, 
are  always  eaten  without  further  dress- 
ing. In  the  fens  of  Lincolnshire  the 
geese,  when  their  feathers  have  -been 
plucked,  are  also  salted. 

916.— BACON. 

The  method  of  curing  Malines  Bacon, 


so  much  admired  for  its  fine  flavor. — Cut 
off  the  hams  and  head  of  a  pig,  if  a 
large  one ;  take  out  the  chine  and  leave 
in  the  sparerib,  as  they  will  keep  in  the 
gravy  and  prevent  the  bacon  from  rust- 
ing. Salt  it  first  with  common  salt,  and 
let  it  lie  for  a  day  on  a  table  that  the 
blood  may  run  from  it;  then  make  a 
brine  with  a  pint  of  bay-salt,  *i  quarter 
of  a  peck  of  common  salt,  about  a  quar- 
ter of  a  pound  of  juniper-berries,  and 
some  bay-leaves,  with  as  much  water  as 
will,  when  the  brine  is  made,  cover  the1 
bacon ;  when  the  salt  is  dissolved,  and 
when  quite  cold,  if  a  new-laid  egg  will 
swim  in  it,  the  brine  may  be  put  on  the 
bacon,  which  after  a  week  must  be  rub- 
bed with  the  following  mixture  : — half 
a  pound  of  saltpetre,  two  ounces  of  sal- 
prunella,  and  one  pound  of  coarse  sugar ; 
after  remaining  four  weeks  it  may  be 
hung  up  in  a  chimney  where  wood  is 
burned  ;  shavings,  with  sawdust  and  a 
small  quantity  of  turf,  may  be  added  to 
the  fire  at  times. 

917.— THE  BLACK  POOL  EECEIPT  FOB 
CUEING  BACON. 

For  a  middling-sized  hog  take  twelve 
pounds  of  the  best  common  salt,  and  one 
pound  of  saltpetre  pounded  very  finely ; 
rub  it  in  well,  and  cover  the  me^at  about 
an  inch  thick,  hams,  chaps,  and  all; 
placing  it  with  the  rind  downwards. 
Let  it  remain  for  a  week ;  then  take  off 
the  salt ;  turn  the  whole  with  the  rind 
upwards ;  tnen  lay  the  salt  on  again  for 
another  week.  Then  remove  the  salt, 
and  turn  it  a  second  time ;  lay  on  the  salt 
and  let  it  remain  four  days  longer.  It 
will  then  be  properly  salted.  Wipe  it 
clean ;  rub  it  all  over  with  dry  salt ;  and 
hang  it  where  it  will  have  a  little  air  of 
the  fire,  until  it  is  dry.  Then  sew  it  up 
in  whity-brown  paper,  and  hang  it  in  a 
dry  place  where  no  heat  can  come  to  it ; 
and,  if  these  precautions  are  taken,  it  will 
not  get  rusty. 


346 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


The  meat  must  be  salted  on  a  board 
that  is  well  perforated  with  holes,  to  let 
the  brine  run  from  it;  and  it  must  be 
covered  up  closely  with  a  coarse  cloth  to 
keep  out  the  air ;  and,  while  salting,  take 
care  to  lay  the  pieces  as  close  as  possible 
one  upon  the  other. 

SU8.— WILTSHIEE  BACON. 

Sprinkle  each  flitch  with  salt ;  and  let 
the  blood  drain  off  for  twenty-four  hours. 
Then  mix  one  pound  and  a  half  of  coarse 
sugar,  the  same  quantity  of  fine  salt,  six 
ounces  of  saltpetre,  and  four  pounds  of 
coarse  salt ;  rub  this  well  on  the  bacon, 
turning  and  wetting  it  in  every  part, 
daily  for  a  month ;  then  hang  it  to  dry, 
and  afterwards  smoke  it  ten  days. 

919.— TO  CUBE  BACON  FOE  LARDING  AND 
BEAISING. 

Take  the  fattest  part  of  the  pork,  and  to 
every  ten  pounds  use  one  pound  of  pound- 
ed salt ;  rub  it  very  well  over ;  put  the 
pieces  one  upon  another  upon  boards,  and 
lay  boards  with  a  heavy  weight  upon  the 
top ;  leave  it  in  a  dry  cool  place  for  about 
a  month ;  then  hang  it  up  to  dry  without 
smoking.  The  hardest  is  the  best  for 
larding ;  and  bacon  cured  in  this  way  is 
preferable  for  culinary  purposes,  since  the 
saltpetre  usually  employed  will  turn  veal 
or  poultry  red,  when  braised  with  any 
portion  of  the  lean. 

920.— HOG'S  CHEEKS. 

Cut  out  the  snout ;  remove  the  brains ; 
and  split  the  head,  taking  off  the  upper 
bone,  to  make  the  chowl  a  good  shape  ; 
rub  it  well  with  salt ;  next  day  take  away 
the  brine,  and  salt  it  again  the  following 
day  with  three  quarts  of  common  salt, 
and  a  pound  and  a  quarter  of  brown 
sugar ;  put  into  a  gallon  and  a  half  of 
spring  water ;  stir  it  until  the  whole  is 
dissolved.  This  quantity  will  be  suffi- 
cient for  three  pair  of  chaps  ;  be  care- 
ful to  turn  them  in  the  brine  at  least 


every  other  day,  and  to  keep  them  well 
covered.     Dry  them'  in  wood-ashes. 

921.— BEAWN. 

Split  and  nicely  clean  a  hog's  head; 
take  out  the  brains ;  cut  off  the  ears,  and 
rub  a  good  deal  of  salt  into  the  head ;  let 
it  drain  twenty-four  hours ;  then  lay  up- 
on it  two  ounces  of  saltpetre,  and  the 
same  of  common  salt,  for  three  days ;  lay 
the  head  and  salt  into  a  pan,  with  just 
water  to  cover  it,  for  two  days  more. 

Wash  it  well,  and  boil  until  the  bones 
will  come  out ;  remove  them,  and  chop 
the  meat  as  quickly  as  possible  in  pieces 
of  an  inch  long ;  but  first  take  the  skin 
carefully  off  the  head  and  the  tongue ; 
the  latter  also  cut  in  bits.  Season  with 
pepper  and  salt.  Put  the  skin  of  one  side 
of  the  head  into  a  small  long  pan  ;  press 
the  chopped  head  and  tongue  into  it,  and 
lay  the  skin  of  the  other  side  of  the  head 
over,  and  press  it  down.  When  cold,  it 
will  turn  out.  The  head  may  probably 
be  too  fat ;  in  which  case,  prepare  a  few 
bits  of  lean  pork  with  the  head.  Boil 
two  ounces  of  salt,  a  pint  of  vinegar,  and 
a  quart  of  the  liquor,  and,  when  cold, 
pour  it  over  the  head.  The  ears  are  to 
be  boiled  longer  than  the  head;  cut  in 
thin  strips,  and  divided  about  it,  the  hair 
being  nicely  removed.  Reboil  the  pickle 
often. 

922.— ANOTHEE  MOCK  BEAWN. 
Boil  a  pair  of  neat's  feet  very  tender ; 
take  the  meat  off,  and  have  ready  the 
belly-piece  of  pork,  salted  with  common 
salt  and  saltpetre,  for  a  week.  Boil  this 
till  nearly  dene ;  take  out  the  bones,  and 
roll  the  feet  and  the  pork  together.  Then 
roll  it  very  tight  with  a  strong  cloth  and 
coarse  tape.  Boil  it  till  very  tender; 
then  hang  it  up  in  the  cloth  till  cold; 
after  which  keep  it  in  a  sousing  liquor. 

923.— TO  KEEP  BEAWN,  THE  CAMBEIDGE 
WAT. 

To  two  gallons  of  water,  put  one  pound 


POTTING   AND   COLLARING. 


347 


of  wleat-bran,  and  one  pound  of  salt ; 
boil  om  hour ;  when  cold,  strain  it ;  and 
keep  the  brawn  in  it.  In  ten  or  twelve 
days  fres*  pickle  will  be  required.  If, 
by  length  cf  carriage  or  neglect,  the  brawn 
be  kept  toe  long  out  of  pickle,  make  as 
above ;  and  vhen  rubbed  well  with  salt, 
and  washed  vith  some  of  the  pickle,  it 
will  be  quite  i^stored  to  its  former  good- 
ness. 

924.— TC  PICKLE  POEK. 

Take  half  a  lushel  of  common  salt, 
one  pound  of  coarse  salt,  half  a  pound  of 
saltpetre,  and  six  jounds  of  coarse  brown 
sugar ;  malfe  hams  of  the  legs.  Take  the 
sides  of  the  pork,  aid  rub  them  well  with 
common  sslt ;  lay  a  thin  bed  of  salt  in  the 
tray,  and  place  one  of  the  si'des  in  it ; 
sprinkle  vith  salt  to  cover  it  j  lay  the 
other  sicb  on  the  top,  and  sprinkle  it 
also.  L(t  them  lie  two-  or  three  days, 
rubbing  the  salt  well  in ;  then  cover  the 
whole  wth  the  other  ingredients ;  and,  as 
soon  as  he  salt  begins  to  give,  rub  them 
well  in  turn  the  sides  frequently,  and 
let  then  be  covered  with  brine ;  it  will 
be  fit  fc  use  in  six  or  eight  weeks. 

925.— A  PICKLE 

That  will  Jceep  for  year  8^  for  hams, 
tongues  or  beef,  if  boiled  and  skimmed 
between  each  parcel  of  them. — To  two 
gallons  rf  spring  water  put  two  pounds 
of  coan  sugar,  two  pounds  of  coarse,  and 
two  an  a  half  pounds  of  common  salt, 
and  ha  a  pound  of  saltpetre,  in  a  deep 
earthei  glazed  pan  that  will  hold  four 
gallons  and  with  a  cover  that  will  fit 
close,  ieep  the  beef  or  hams  as  long 
as  the;  will  bear  before  you  put  them 
into  th  pickle  ;  and  sprinkle  them  with 
coarse  sugar  in  a  pan.  from  which  they 
must  rain.  Rub  the  hams,  &c.,  well 
with  t3  pickle ;  and  pack  them  in  close, 
puttin  as  much  as  the  pan  will  hold, 
so  thb  the  pickle  may  cover  them. 
The  pkle  is  not  to  be  boiled  at  first.  A 


small  ham  may  lie  fourteen  days ;  a  large 
one  three  weeks  ;  a  tongue  twelve  days  ; 
and  beef  in  proportion  to  its  size.  They 
will  eat  well  out  of  the  pickle  without 
drying.  When  they  are  to  be  dried,  let 
each  piece  be  drained  over  the  pan ;  and 
when  it  will  drop  no  longer,  take  a  clean 
sponge  and  dry  it  thoroughly.  Six  or 
eight  hours  will  smoke  them ;  and  there 
should  be  only  a  little  sawdust  and  wet 
straw  burnt  to  do  tin's  ;  but  if  put  into  a 
baker's  chimney,  sew  them  in  a  coarse 
cloth,  and  hang  them  a  week.  Add  two 
pounds  of  common  salt,  and  two  pints 
of  water,  every  time  you  boil  the  liquor. 

926. -POTTING  AND  COLLAEING. 

To  pot  and  collar  are  only  different 
modes  of  preserving  fish  and  meat  for  a 
longer  time  than  they  could  be  kept  fresh ; 
chiefly,  in  the  instance  of  potting,  by 
pounding  the  materials  with  seasoning, 
when  dressed,  and  then  putting  small 
portions  in  closely  covered  jars  or  pots ; 
while  collaring  is  done  by  slicing  portions 
of  the  meat  or  fish  ;  and,  when  well  sea- 
soned, rolling  it  in  round  pieces ;  to  be 
eaten  cold,  as  savory  dishes,  at  breakfast 
and  luncheon. 

In  potting,  take  care  to  wait  until  the 
meat  is  cold ;  press  the  meat  firmly  into 
the  pots ;  but,  before  putting  it  there, 
drain  the  gravy  thoroughly  from  the 
meat,  or  the  gravy  will  turn  it  sour ;  then 
cover  well  with  clarified  butter,  and  tie 
over  it  oil-skin,  or  oiled  paper,  to  exclude 
the  air. 

927.-TO  CLAEIFT  BUTTEE. 

Put  your  boat  into  a  saucepan  of  cold 
water,  and  set  it  over  a  slow  fire  until  it 
melts ;  then  take  it  off  the  fire ;  take  off 
the  scum,  and  again  warm  it  gently. 
After  being  used,  it  will  still  serve  for 
basting,  or  for  meat-pie  paste,  and  is  also 
excellent  for  fish  sauce. 

In  Collaring,  be  careful  to  roll  the 
meat  tightly,  and  bind  it  firmly.  Let  it 


348 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


also  be  thoroughly  done  ;  left  in  a  cool 
place  ;  sometimes  rubbed  with  pickle,  but 
always  wiped  perfectly  dry. 
* 

928.-TO  POT  SHFLL-FISH. 

Boil  lobsters  and  shrimps  in  salt  and 
water  ;  pick  the  meat  out  of  the  tails  and 
claws  ;  put  them  into  a  stewpan,  with  a 
little  butter,  some  chopped  mushrooms 
or  truffles,  and  simmer  a  short  time  over 
a  gentle  fire.  When  nearly  done,  beat 
the  yolks  of  two  or  three  eggs,  with  a 
teacupful  of  cream,  and  a  little  chopped 
parsley  ;  let  all  stew  together  for  a  few 
minutes,  until  rendered  as  consistent  as 
paste,  and  set  it  as  above  stated. 

Or  /—When  boiled,  take  them  out  of 
their  shells,  and  season  them  with  salt, 
white  pepper,  and  a  very  little  mace  and 
nutmeg  ;  but  use  the  spice  very  sparingly, 
only  just  sufficient  to  preserve  the  fish 
for  a  few  days  in  a  fresh  state,  as  they 
will  not  keep  good  much  longer.  Press 
them  into  a  pot  ;  lay  a  little  butter  over 
them;  and  bake  in  a  slow  oven  for  ten 
minutes.  When  cold,  cover  with  clari- 
fied butter. 

Shrimps,  may  also  be  potted  whole,  by 
putting  them  for  a  few  minutes  in  clari- 
fied butter,  seasoned  as  above,  and  gently 
heated;  then  put  into  pots,  and  cover 
with  more  butter,  to  totally  prevent  the 
admission  of  air.  Cover  the  pots  also 
with  oil-skin. 

929.—  TO  POT  POULTEY  AND  GAME. 


.  —  Take  as  much  lean  of  boiled 
ham  as  you  may  think  proper,  and  half 
the  quantity  of  fat  ;  each  cut  as  thin  as 
possible  ;  beat  it  very  fine  in  a  mortar. 
with  a  little  clarified  butter,  pounded 
mace,  pepper,  and  salt  —  if  the  ham  be 
not  sufficiently  impregnated.  To  this 
add  the  white  part  of  the  fowl,  also 
pounded,  but  without  seasoning,  as  it  is 
only  intended  to  qualify  the  savoriness  of 
the  ham.  Then  either  mix  the  whole 


together,  or  put  a  layer  of  ham  and  chfcken 
alternately ;  press  it  hard  in  the  pots ; 
bake  in  a  cool  oven  for  half  an  hour; 
pour  over  it  clarified  butter  to  tfie  thick- 
ness of  a  crown  piece,  and  paste  over  it  a 
piece  of  paper,  which  may  be  oiled  when 
the  paste  is  dry. 

Let  them  be  quite  fresh/  clean  them 
carefully,  and  season  them /frith  salt  and 
pepper;  lay  them  close  iya  small  deep 
pan ;  for,  the  smaller  the  surface,  and  the 
closer  they  are  packed,  /he  less  butter 
will  be  wanted.  Cover/them  with  but- 
ter; then  with  very  /hick  paper;  tie 
down  and  bake  them./  When  cold,  put 
them  dry  into  pots  thai  will  hold  two  or 
three  in  each;  and  pour  butter  over 
them,  using  that  wh/ch  was; baked  as 
part.  Observe  that  the  batter  ^hould  be 
pretty  thick  over  them  if  they  kre  to  be 
kept.  If  pigeons  were  boned  ind  then 
put  in  an  oval  form  into  the  jot,  they 
would  lie  closer  and  require  less 
They  may  be  stuffed  with  a  fir 
meat  made  with  veal,  bacon.  & 
high  flavor  is  approved  of,  ad 


allspice,   and 
baking. 


a    little    cayenne 


980.— PAETKIDGES  AND  PHEAS 

Clean  them  nicely,  and  seas 
mace,  allspice,  white  pepper  and 
fine  powder,  or  seasoning  spice 
every  part  well;  then  lay  the 
downwards  in  a  pan,  and  pack  t 
as  close  as  you  possibly  can.  PL 


IHk 

with 
alt,  in 
Rub 
reasts 
birds 
a  good 

deal  of  butter  on  them ;  then  c  er  the 
pan  with  a  coarse  flour  paste,  and  paper 
over ;  tie  it  close,  and  bake.  Whi  cold, 
put  the  birds  into  pots,  and  cov  them 
with  butter. 

Or: — When  baked  and  grow  cold, 
cut  them  into  proper  pieces  for  1. ping  5 
pack  them  close  into  a  large  potti;-pan, 
and  (if  possible)  leave  no  spaces  tosceive 
the  butter.  Cover  them  with  utter, 
and  one-third  part  less  will  be  anted 
than  when  the  birds  are  done  wh 


butter. 

force- 
If  a 

mace, 
before 


POTTING. 


349 


981.— HARE. 

Hang  up  a  hare  four  or  five  days,  with 
the  skin  on ;  then  case  it,  and  cut  it  up  as 
for  eating ;  put  it  in  a  pot,  and  season  it 
with  mace,  pepper,  and  salt ;  put  one 
pound  of  butter  upon  it ;  tie  it  down,  and 
bake  in  a  bread  oven  till  tender.  When 
it  comes  out,  pick  it  from  the  bones,  and 
pound  to  a  smooth  consistence  with  the 
fat  from  the  butter,  and  pot  it  in  the 
usual  way. 

932.— BABBITS. 

Cut  up  two  or  three  young,  but  full- 
grown  ones ;  and  take  the  leg-bones  off 
at  the  thigh ;  pack  them  as  closely  as 
possible  in  a  small  pan,  after  seasoning 
them  with  pepper,  mace,  cayenne,  salt, 
allspice,  all  in  very  fine  powder.  Make 
the  top  as  smooth  as  you  can.  Keep  out 
the  liver  and  the  carcases ;  but  take  off 
the  meat  above  the  neck.  Put  a  good 
deal  of  butter ;  and  bake  the  whole  gently. 
Keep  it  two  days  in  the  pan ;  then  shift 
it  into  small  pots,  adding  butter.  The 
livers  also  should  be  added,  as  they  eat 
well. 

933.— BEEF  POTTED. 

Take  three  pounds  of  lean  beef,  salt  it 
two  or  three  days  with  half  a  pound  of 
salt  and  half  an  ounce  of  saltpetre ;  di- 
vide it  into  pieces  of  a  pound  each,  and 
put  it  into  an  earthen  pan  just  sufficient 
to  contain  it ;  pour  in  half  a  pint  of 
water,  cover  it  close  with  paste,  and  set 
in  a  slow  oven  for  four  hours.  When 
taken  from  the  oven  pour  the  gravy  from 
it  into  a  basin,  shred  the  meat  fine, 
moisten  it  with  the  gravy  poured  from 
the  meat,  and  pound  it  thoroughly  in  a 
marble  mortar  with  fresh  butter  until  it 
becomes  a  fine  paste ;  season  it  with 
black  pepper  and  allspice,  or  cloves 
pounded,  or  nutmeg  grated;  put  it  in 
pots,  press  it  down  as  close  as  possible, 
put  a  weight  on  it  and  let  it  stand  all 


night ;  next  day,  when  quite  cold,  cover 
it  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick  with  clari- 
fied butter,  anelf tie  it  over  with  paper. 

984— BEEF  POTTED  LIKE  VENISON. 

Take  a  whole  thin  flank  of  beef,  pull 
off  the  inward  skin,  and  cut  it  across  and 
across,  particularly  in  the  thickest  parts, 
lay  it  for  six  hours  in  hard  water,  take 
as  much  saltpetre  as  the  quantity  of  an 
egg,  mix  with  about  two  pounds  of  white 
salt,  and  rub  it  well  into  the  meat ;  then 
sprinkle  upon  it  nearly  a  pint  of  wine 
vinegar,  and  then  let  it  lie  for  three  or 
four  days,  turning  and  rubbing  it  once  a 
day,  then  rinse  it  out  of  the  brine  with 
a  pint  of  claret,  and  season  it  with  cloves, 
mace,  and  nutmeg,  white  and  Jamaica 
pepper,  of  each  a  quarter  of  an  ounce ; 
bake  all  together  with  savory,  thyme, 
sage,  and  the  rind  of  a  lemon  shred  to- 
gether, and  then  well  rubbed  into  the 
cuts  and  slashes  on  the  inside ;  then  bind 
it  up  with  tape,  and  lay  it  in  a  long  pot ; 
put  in  the  claret,  and  lay  the  skins  at 
the  top  to  save  it,  then  bake  it. 

935.— BIEDS  POTTED— HOW  TO  PEESEEVE 
WHEN  THEY  BEGIN  TO  GEOW  OLD. 

When  birds  are  sent  a  long  way  they 
often  smell  so  bad  that  they  can  hardly 
be  borne,  from  the  rankness  of  the  but- 
ter ;  by  doing  them  in*  the  following  way 
they  will  be  as  if  only  fresh  done.  Set 
a  large  saucepan  of  clean  water  on  the 
fire,  when  it  boils  take  off  the  butter  at 
the  top,  then  take  the  fowls  one  by  one, 
throw  them  in  the  saucepan  of  water 
half  a  minute,  take  one  out  and  dry  it 
well  inside  and  out,  do  so  till  they  are 
all  done,  scald  your  pot  clean ;  when  the 
birds  are  quite  cold  season  with  mace, 
pepper,  and  salt,  according  to  taste: 
put  them  down  close  in  a  pot,  put  clari- 
fied butter  over  them. 

% 

986.— CHICKEN  AND  HAM  POTTED. 

Season  some  pieces  of  chicken  with 


350 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


mace,  cloves,  and  pepper,  and  bake  it  for 
about  two  hours  in  a  close  covered  pan, 
with  some  water,  then  pound  them  quite 
small,  moistening  with  either  melted 
butter,  or  the  liquor  that  they  are  baked 
in,  pound  some,  and  put  this  with  the 
chicken  in  alternate  layers,  in  pots  or 
pans  ;  press  them  down  tight,  and  cover 
them  with  butter. 

987.— GAME  OF  ALL  KINDS. 

Any  dressed  game  you  may  have  in 
your  larder.  Pound  well  in  your  mor- 
tar all  the  tender  meat  free  from  skin 
and  bone  ;  add  to  it  some  pounded  mace, 
allspice,  cayenne  pepper,  salt,  and  white 
pepper,  a  few  grains  of  powdered  sugar, 
an  equal  quantity,  if  you  have  it,  of 
good  fat  ham.  When  well  pounded  rub 
it  through  a  wire  sieve  ;  if  you  have  no 
ham  use  an  equal  quantity  of  butter  in- 
stead ;  mix  it  well  up  again,  and  place  it 
tightly  in  earthen  shapes;  coyer  each 
jar  over  with  clarified  butter  or  lard ; 
turn  out  with  warm  water ;  when  requir- 
ed either  for  breakfast  or  luncheon,  or  a 
second  course,  dish  in  or  on  aspic,  gar- 
nish with  fresh  parsley. 

938.— PIGEONS  POTTED. 

Be  careful  that  they  are  fresh,  clean 
and  season  them  with  salt  and  pepper, 
lay  them  close  together  in  a  small  deep 
pan,  for  the  closer  they  are  put  the  less 
butter  they  will  take.  Cover  them  with 
butter,  tie  them  over  with  a  thin  paper, 
and  bake  them  ;  when  cold  put  them  to 
dry  in  pots  that  will  hold  two  or  three 
in  each,  and  pour  butter  over  them,  using 
that  which  was  baked  as  some;  mind, 
the  butter  should  be  thick  over  them ; 
if  they  are  done  for  keeping,  the  pigeons 
would  lie  closer  and  want  less  butter,  if 
tfcey  are  boned  and  put  into  the  pot  in 
an  oval  form.  They  may  be  stuffed  with 
forcemeat,  made  with  veal  and  bacon, 
&c.,  and  they  will  eat  very  well.  If  a. 


high  seasoning  is  preferred,  add  more  all- 
spice, and  a  little  cayenne  pepper,  before 
baking. 

Woodcocks  are  done  the  same  way. 

939.— SMELTS  POTTED. 

Draw  out  the  inside,  season  with  salt, 
mace  pounded,  and  pepper ;  lay  them  in 
a  pan  with  butter  on  the  top,  bake  them ; 
when^  nearly  cold  take  them  out.  lay 
them  on  a  cloth,  put  them  into  pots,  clear 
off  the  butter  from  the  gravy,  clarify, 
and  pour  it  over  them. 

940.— VEAL  POTTED. 

Take  one  pound  of  lean  veal,  put  it 
into  a  stewpan,  with  two  ounces  of  fresh 
butter,  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  pepper,  salt, 
sifted  mace,  a  bay-leaf,  allspice,  cloves, 
nutmeg,  cinnamon,  and  mushroom  pow- 
der, a  small  quantity  of  each ;  a  little 
thyme,  savory,  and  a  couple  of  shalots, 
chopped  fine;  stew  them  ten  minutes, 
then  pound  them,  add  a  pound  of  the 
mellow  part  of  a  boiled  tongue  beaten 
to  a  paste,  half  a  pound  of  cold  fresh 
butter ;  mix  all  well  together,  with  two 
eggs,  well  beaten,  then  press  the  mixture 
down  tight  in  small  pots,  cover  them 
with  paper,  and  put  them  into  a  moderate 
oven,  bake  twenty  minutes,  then  pour 
over  them  clarified  butter. 

941 —VENISON  POTTED. 

Put  the  venison  into  a  pan,  and  ponr 
red  wine  over  it,  and  cover  it  with  a 
pound  of  butter ;  put  a  paste  over  the 
pan,  set  it  in  the  oven  to  bake.  When 
done  take  the  meat  out  of  the  gravy, 
beat  it  well  with  the  butter  that  has 
risen  to  the  top,  add  more  if  necessary, 
season  with  pepper,  salt,  and  mace  pound- 
ed ;  put  into  pots,  set  them  in  the  oven 
for  a  few  minutes,  take  them  out ;  when 
cold  cover  with  clarified  butter. 

942.— NEAT'S  TONGUE. 

Kub  it  with  one  ounce  of  saltpetre  and 


COLLARING. 


351 


four  ounces  of  brown  sugar ;  let  it  lie 
two  days,  then  boil  it  till  it  is  quite  ten- 
der ;  take  off  the  skin  and  all  the  fibrous 
part  of  the  root,  cut  it  in  thin  pieces, 
and  pound  it  with  one  pound  of  clarified 
butter,  and  seasoning  to  your  taste. 

943.— TO  POT  BEEF  IN  IMITATION  OF 
VENISON. 

Put  eight  or  ten  pounds  of  lean  beef 
into  a  deep  dish ;  pour  over  it  a  pint  of 
red  wine,  and  let  it  lie  in  it  for  two  days, 
seasoning  it  well  with  mace,  pepper,  salt, 
and  a  clove  of  garlic;  then  put  it  into  a 
closely  covered  pot  along  with  the  wine, 
'and  another  glassful  if  it  be  not  suffi- 
cient, and  bake  it  for  three  hours  in  a 
quick  oven ;  when  cold,  pound  it  to  a 
paste,  and  pot  it  as  above. 

Venison  may  itself  be  potted  in  the 
same  manner ;  but  if  it  be  stale,  rub  it 
previously  with  pyroligneous  acid. 

944— HAM  CAKE. 

Take  the  remains  of  a  ham  that  may 
be  getting  dry,  pound  it  in  a  mortar  very 
finely,  with  all  the  fat ;  season  it  with 
pepper  and  mixed  spice ;  add  to  it  clari- 
fied butter  sufficient  to  make  it  moist ; 
put  it  into  a  mould,  and  place  it  in  an 
oven  for  about  half  an  hour ;  it  should 
be  prepared  the  da^  before  it  is  wanted  : 
put  the  mould  for  a  few  minutes  in  warm 
water  in  order  that  it  may  turn  out  pro- 
perly. This  may  be  made  with  equal 
quantities  of  cold  beef  pounded  separate- 
ly, and  placed  in  layers  in  the  mould,  or 
put  together  in  lumps  to  look  like  mar- 
ble. Tongue  may  also  be  substituted 
for  the  ham,  but  it  must  be  mixed  with 
a  larger  quantity  of  butter  in  the  pound- 
ing. If  not  wanted  at  the  time,  it  may 
be  potted  with  veal,  and  covered  with 
clarified  butter.  It  will  keep  well  in 
winter  if  properly  seasoned. 

945.-TO  POT  MUSHEOOMS. 

Choose    large   buttons,  or   those  in 


which  the  inside  is  not  yet  the  least 
brown ;  peel  and  wipe  out  the  fur  of  the 
larger  ones  ;  and  to  every  two  quarts  put 
half  a  drachm  of  pounded  mace,  two 
drachms  of  white  pepper,  an$  six  or 
eight  cloves  in  powder:  set  them  over 
the  fire,  shake,  and  let  the  liquor  dry  up 
into  them.  Then  put  to  them  two 
ounces  of  butter,  and  stew  them  in  it 
till  they  are  fit  for  eating ;  pour  the  but- 
ter from  them,  and  let  them  become  cold. 
Pack  them  close  into  a  pot,  making  the 
surface  as  even  as  possible ;  add  some 
butter  lukewarm,  and  then  lay  a  bit  of 
white  paper  over  them,  and  pour  clari- 
fied suet  upon  it  to  exclude  the  air. 

The  collaring  of  Meat  and  Fish  is  an 
excellent  method  of  preparing  it  to  be 
eaten  cold,  having  the  advantage  of  keep- 
ing for  a  long  time,  and  being  at  all  times 
ready  for  breakfast  or  luncheon. 

946.-COLLAEED  EEL. 

Out  off  the  head,  then  split  and  take 
out  the  bone,  but  do  not  skin  the  fish ; 
season  them  with  mixed  spices,  some 
parsley  and  sweet  marjoram  shred  very 
fine,  and  a  few  chopped  sage  leaves; 
sprinkle  a  little  dry  isinglass  over  them ; 
roll  them  tightly  up  in  a  cloth,  bind  it 
well  with  strong  tape.  Boil  them  in 
good  gravy  with  a  little  vinegar,  accord- 
ing to  the  quantity  of  eels  collared,  a 
few  pepper-corns,  a  sprig  of  sweet  mar- 
joram, two  or  three  onions,  four  bay- 
leaves,  a  blade  or  two  of  mace,  and  a 
dozen  allspice.  Boil  them  until  tender ; 
take  them  up  and  tie  them  without  tak- 
ing out  of  the  cloth,  'let  them  stand  until 
cold,  then  glaze  them.  They  may  be 
sent  whole  to  table,  or  cut  in  slices,  and 
garnished  with  jelly  and  barberries. 

As  a  standing  dish,  and  only  eaten 
cold  as  a  relish,  it  ought  always  to  be 
highly  seasoned. 

947.— TO  "  CAYEACH  "  FISH. 

Bone  the  tail  of  a  cod,  and  cut  it  into 


352 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


slices,  season  them  with  white  pepper 
and  salt,  then  fry  them,  and  when  cold 
put  them  into  a  pickle  made  of  vinegar 
boiled  with  peppercorns,  a  few  cloves, 
mace,  and  bay-leaves  ;  add  when  cold  a 
teacupful  of  sweet  oil ;  lay  the  fish  in  a 
jar  with  slices  of  onion  between  each, 
and  cover  the  whole  with  vinegar.  Sal- 
mon may  be  pickled  in  the  same  man- 
ner. When  served  up  at  table  put  a  suf- 
ficient number  of  pieces  in  the  centre  of 
the  dish,  and  raise  round  it  a  wall  of 
salad. 

94&-TO  COLLAR  BEEP. 

Make  a  pickle  with  six  ounces  of  brown 
sugar,  four  ounces  of  common  salt,  and 
one  ounce  of  saltpetre.  Then  take  a 
flank  of  beef,  and  leave  it  in  the  pickle 
for  ten  days  or  a  fortnight,  turning  it 
every  day.  When  taken  out,  remove  the 
bone  and  gristle,  but  leave  on  the  outer 
skin;  lay  it  upon  the  table,  with  the 
skin  downwards,  and  beat  the  inside 
well  with  a  rolling-pin  or  wooden  mal- 
let until  quite  tender ;  that  done,  score 
the  flesh  in  rows,  down  and  across, 
about  the  breadth  of  two  fingers ;  but 
in  doing  so  take  care  not  to  cut  the  out- 
side skin.  Then  fill  the  scores  alter- 
nately with  slices  of  the  fat  of  bacon 
and  corned  pork,  and  sweet  herbs  of  all 
sorts,  chopped,  and  seasoned  with  spice, 
till  you  have  filled  them  all ;  after  which, 
roll  the  flank  up  very  tightly,  and  bind 
it  round  with  coarse  broad  tape,  wrap  it 
in  a  cloth,  and  boil  it  gently,  but  steadily, 
for  four  or  five  hours,  according  to  -the 
size  of  the  joint.  When  quite  cold,  take 
it  out  of  the  cloth,  unbind  the  tape,  and 
fasten  the  roll  with  small  skewers.  If 
you  wish  to  improve  its  appearance,  you 
may  also  glaze  it,  or  rub  it  with  yolk  of 
egg,  and  brown  it  with  a  salamander. 

Another  mode  is,  to  take  either  the 
flank  or  "brisket^  and  prepare  it,  as  above, 
for  boilir.g  ;  but  stew  it  with  a  very  little 


water,  and,  when  done,  cover  the  meat 
with  a  coating  of  chopped  parsley,  thyme, 
chives,  or  shalot,  seasoned  with  a  little 
cayenne  ;  then  put  it  under  a  board,  and 
lay  weights  upon  it  for  an  hour  or  two, 
to  press  it  close  tpgether ;  but  before  it 
becomes  quite  cold,  remove  the  weights, 
and  roll  the  piece  up  in  the  manner  al- 
ready directed. 

949.— AN  ECONOMICAL  WAY. 

Take  the  best  part  of  a  shin  of  leef, 
of  which  soup  has  been  made  (for  it 
mhst  be  stewed  until  very  tender),  and 
an  ox-tail,  also  well  stewed ;  cut  them 
into  small  pieces,  season  them  well,  add 
a  glass  of  wine  and  a  glass  of  ketchup, 
and  put  it  into  a  stewpan  covered  with 
a  part  of  the  liquor  in  which  the  ox-tail 
has  been  boiled  ;  stew  it  for  about  twenty 
minutes,  and  then  put  it  into  a  mould. 
It  must'  be  very  cold  before  it  is  turned 
out.  This  is  a  good  way  of  employing 
the  beef  and  heel  when  soup  or  jelly  is 
made ;  a  few  chopped  sweet  herbs  may 
be  added,  and  hard  eggs  cut  into  slices, 
or  pickles,  such  as  sliced  cucumbers,  in- 
termingled. The  flavor  may  be  varied 
in  many  ways. 

950.— TO  COLLAR  CALF'S  HEAD. 

Scald  the  skin  of  a  fine  head,  clean  it 
nicely,  and  take  out  the  brains.  Boil  it 
tender  enough  to  remove  the  bones  ;  then 
have  ready  a  ,good  quantity  of  chopped 
parsley,  mace,  ground  nutmeg,  salt  and 
white  pepper,  mixed  well :  season  it  high 
with  these ;  lay  the  parsley  in  a  thick 
layer,  then  a  quantity  of  thick  slices  of 
fine  ham.  or  a  beautifully  colored  tongue 
skinned,  and  then  the  yolks  of  six  nice 
eggs  stuck  here  and  there  about.  Koll 
the  head  quite  close,  and  tie  it  up  as 
tight  as  you  can.  Boil  it  till  the  tape 
slackens,  and  then  lay  a  weight  upon  it 
(without  removing  the  bandage)  till 
quite  cold.  Keep  it  in  a  pickle  of  the 
liquor,  vinegar,  and  salt. 


COLLARING. 


353 


A  cloth  must  be  put  under  the  tape, 
as  for  other  collars. 

Ox-cheek  may  be  collared  in  the  same 
way. 

951.— BEEAST  OF  VEAL.      , 

Bone  it,  take  off  the  thick  skin  and 
gristle,  and  beat  the  meat  with  a  rolling- 
pin.  Saason  it  with  herbs  chopped  very 
fine,  mixed  with  salt,  pepper,  and  mace. 
Lay  some  thick  slices  of  fine  ham, 
or  roll  into  it  two  or  three  calves' 
tongues  boiled  first  an  hour  or  two,  and 
skinned.  Bind  it  up  tight  in  a  cloth,' 
and  tape  it.  Set  it  over  a  slow  fire  to 
simmer  in  a  small  quantity  of  water,  till 
it  is  quite  tender :  this  will  take  some 
hours.  Lay  it  on  the  dresser,  with  a 
board  and  weight  on  it,  till  quite  cold. 

Pigs'  and  calves'  feet  boiled,  and  taken 
from  the  bones,  may  be  put  in  or  round 
it.  The  different  colors  laid  in  layers 
look  well  when  cut ;  and  you  may  put 
in  yolks  of  eggs  boiled,  beet-root,  grated 
ham,  and  chopped  parsley,  in  different 
parts. 

When  it  is  cold,  take  off  the  tape,  and 
pour  over  it  the  liquor,  which  must  be 
boiled  up  twice  a-week,  or  it  will  not 
keep. 

952.— BREAST  OP  MUTTON, 

Collared  in  this  way,  will  also  be 
found  very  nice.  Bone  the  meat,  and 
rub  it  over  with  yolk  of  egg,  over  which 
grate  some  lemon-peel"  and  nutmeg,  with 
a  little  pepper  and  salt;  then  mince  a 
large  spoonful  of  capers  with  a  couple  of 
anchovies,  shred  a  handful  of  parsley 
and  a  few  sweet  herbs,  mixed  with  crumb 
of  a  French  roll ;  strew  it  over  the  mut- 
ton, and  roll  it  up  tight ;  boil  it  gently 
for  two  hours,  and,  when  taken  up,  put 
it  in  the  same  kind  of  pickle  as  that  of 
the  calf's  head. 

953.— TO  COLLAR  A  PIG. 

Take  a  fine  fat  pig  of  a  month  or  five 


weeks  old,  prepared  for  the  table ;  cut  off 
the  head  and  split  the  pig  down  the  back, 
and  bone  it ;  chop  a  handful  of  sage  very 
small,  mix  it  with  two  nutmegs  and  three 
or  four  blades  of  mace  beaten  fine  ;  add 
to  it  a  large  handful  of  salt,  and  season 
the  pig  all  over ;  roll  it  hard,  tie  it  with 
tape,  sew  it  in  a  clean  linen  cloth,  and 
boil  it  in  water  with  a  little  oatmeal  and 
a  good  seasoning  of  salt ;  boil  till  very 
tender,  which  will  take  several  hours. 
Keep  it  in  the  cloth  in  which  it  was 
boiled  until  quite  cold.  Then  take  the 
cloth  from  the  pig,  and  let  it  lie  for  eight 
days  in  a  marinade.  Eat  it  with  mus- 
tard, sugar,  and  vinegar. 

954.— TO  COLLAR  PIG'S  ^EAD. 

Scour  the  head  and  ears  nicely  ;  take 
off  the  hair  and  snout,  and  take  out  the 
eyes  and  the  brains  ;  lay  it  in  water  one 
night :  then  drain,  salt  it  extremely  well 
with  common  salt  and  saltpetre,  and  let 
it  lie  five  days.  Boil  it  enough  to  take 
out  the  bones  ;  then  lay  it  on  a  dresser, 
turning  the  thick  end  of  one  side  of  the 
head  towards  the  thin  end  of  the  other, 
to  make  the  roll  of  equal  size ;  sprinkle 
it  well  with  salt  and  white  pepper,  and 
roll  it  with  the  ears  ;  and,  if  you  ap- 
prove, put  the  pig's  feet  round  the  out- 
side when  boned,  or  the  thin  parts  of 
two  cow-heels.  Put  it  into  a  cloth,  bind 
with  a  broad  tape,  and  boil  it  till  quite 
tender ;  then  put  a  good  weight  upon  it, 
and  do  not  take  off  the  covering  till 
cold. 

If  you  choose  it  to  be  more  like  brawn, 
salt  it  longer,  let  the  proportion  of  salt- 
petre be  greater,  and  put  in  also  some 
pieces  of  lean  pork ;  and  then  cover  it 
with  cow-heel  to  look  like  the  horn. 

This  may  be  kept  either  in  or  out  of 
pickle  of  salt  and  water  boiled,  with 
vinegar ;  and  is  a  very  convenient  thing 
to  have  in  the  house. 

If  likely  to  spoil,  slice  and  fry  it  either 
with  or  without  butter. 


354: 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


955.— A  MAEINADE  FOE  COLLAEED 
MEATS. 

Make  thin  water-gruel  of  oatmeal ;  sea- 
son it  well  with  salt ;  add  half  a  pint  of 
white  wine  and  half  a  spoonful  of  white 
pepper ;  boil  it  all  together  for  half  an 
hour ;  allow  it  to  become  cold  before  the 
collar  is  put  into  it. 

956.-TO  SALT  OE  COEN  A  BOUND  OP 
BEEF. 

Rub  into  it  a  pound  and  a  half  of  salt, 
dried  before  the  fire ;  then  put  it  into  a 
salting-pan,  set  it  in  a  cool  place,  and  the 
brine  that  melts  should  be  poured  on  the 
meat  every  day.  It  may  remain  in  salt 
from  three  to  ten  days. 

957.-BEEF  PICKLE. 

Five  quarts  white  salt,  one  of  coarse 
salt,  one  pound  brown  sugar,  fourteen 
quarts  soft  water ;  keep  it  simmering  till 
it  comes  to  a  boil ;  then  add  four  ounces 
saltpetre,  and  give  it  a  boil.  Pack  your 
beef  in  a  close  vessel,  and  when  the  pickle 
is  cold,  pour  it  over  it. 

958.-TO  PICKLE  MEAT. 

To  four  gallons  water  put  six  pounds 
salt ;  boil  and  skim  well,  and  let  stand 
till  cold ;  then  put  it  into  the  vessel  for 
your  meat ;  boil  the  pickle  over  in  two 
months,  adding  one  pound  salt,  and  skim 
well ;  keep  a  weight  on  the  meat  to  keep 
it  under  the  pickle ;  if  any  part  should 
be  bloody,  sprinkle  salt  on  it,  and  let  it 
stand  all  night ;  then  scrape  and  wipe  it 
before  it  goes  into  the  pickle. 

r 
959.— VEAL  POTTED. 

Pound  the  remains  of  a  cold  fillet  with 
mace,  peppercorns,  two  or  three  cloves, 
and  a  little  salt,  and  press  it  well  down 
into  pots,  then  cover  with  clarified  but- 
ter. Alternate  layers  of  pounded  ham 
and  veal,  or  both  mixed,  form  a  fine  com- 
pound for  the  limcheon  or  breakfast- 
table. 


960.— HEEEINGS,  TO  PICKLE. 

Let  the  fish  be  well  cleaned  and  gutted 
but  not  opened;  take  salt,  pepper,  mace, 
nutmeg,  pound  and  mix  these  spices  well, 
then  rub  a  pan  with  an  onion,  strew 
some  of  the  spices  over  the  bottom,  and 
put  as  many  fish  as  will  lie  flat  on  the 
bottom,  then  put  a  la}rer  of  sliced  onions, 
and  then  fish,  and  so  on  alternately  till 
the  pan  is  filled ;  strew  the  pounded  spice 
between  each  layer,  pour  over  the  best 
vinegar  so  as  to  cover  the  whole,  tie  a 
brown  paper  over  the  pan,  and  bake  till 
the  bones  are  soft. 

Sprats  and  mackerel  are  likewise  done 
in  this  way. 

The  heads  and  tails  must  be  cut  off. 

961.-SOYEE'S  SIMPLIFIED  WAY  OF  MAKING 
THE  SAVOKY  JELLY  CALLED  ASPIC. 

Put  a  galantine  in  a  stewpan  with  two 
onions,  a  carrot,  half  a  head  of  celery,  two 
cloves,  a  blade  of  mace,  a  good  bunch  of 
parsley,  a  little  thyme,  and  bay-leaves,  a 
knuckle  of  veal,  the  bones  of  a  turkey,  two 
calf's  feet,  two  ounces  of  salt :  add  suffi- 
cient water  to  cover  the  whole ;  and  set 
the  stewpan  upon  the  fire,  until  upon  the 
point  of  boiling ;  then  draw  it  to  the  cor- 
ner; skim,  and  let  simmer  for  three 
hours ;  then  take  it  from  the  fire,  leaving 
it  in  the  stock  until  nearly  cold;  then 
take  it  out ;  removevthe  string  from  the 
napkin,  and  roll  the  galantine  up  tighter, 
tying  the  napkin  again  at  each  end  only ; 
then  place  it  upon  a  dish ;  the  breast  part 
upwards;  set  another  dish  upon  it,  on 
which  place  a  fourteen  pounds'  weight, 
which  will  press  and  cause  it  to  cut  firm ; 
when  quite  cold,  it  is  ready  to  serve; 
having  removed  the  napkin,  and  the 
string  with  which  it  was  sewed ;  the 
stock,  however,  should  be  clarified  as  di- 
rected in  the  next  receipt,  to  make  a 
savory  jelly,  which,  when  cold  and  firm, 
is  cut  in  croutons  and  chopped;  with 
some  also  the  galantine  should  be  taste- 
fully garnished. 


MEAT   JELLY. 


355 


Although  at  first  I  had  some  difficulty 
with  this  receipt,  I  can  now  see  the  vari- 
ety to  which  it  leads,  as  the  same  process 
answers  for  fowls,  green  geese,  ducklings, 
pheasants,  grouse,  partridges,  &c.,  using 
game  with  the  veal  or  pork  for  the  inte- 
rior, and  stewing  them  according  to  their 
size  ;  the  bones  of  game  being  stewed  with 
the  stock,  will  give  the  flavor  to  the 
savory  jelly. 

962.-TO  CLAEIFT  MEAT  JELLY. 

Having  passed  the  stock  (made  as  in 
irhe  last)  through  the  sieve  into  a  ba- 
sin, leave  it  until  quite  cold ;  then  take 
off  all  the  fat  very  carefully  ;  ascertain  if 
sufficiently,  or  too  stiff,  by  putting  a 
small  piece  upon  ice ;  savory  jelly  requires 
to  be  rather  stiffer  than  sweet;  if  too 
stiff,  add  a  little  more  broth  ;  if  the  con- 
trary, the  .stock  must  be  reduced  upon 
the  fire  until  of  the  proper  consistency. 
When  the  stock  is  boiling,  ajid  you  are 
perfectly  assured  of  its  strength,  have  the 
white  of  four  eggs  with  their  shells  in  a 
basin,  with  half  a  pint  of  water,  two 
spoonfuls  of  tarragon  or  common  vinegar, 
and  a  glass  of  sherry ;  whisk  all  together  ; 
then  whisk  the  stock  quickly  a  few 
seconds,  and  pour  in  the  other  ingredients 
while  whisking ;  continue  whisking  a  few 
minutes  until  again  upon  the  point,  but 
not  boiling ;  then  take  it  from  the  fire,  and 
taste  if  palatable ;  place  a  cover  upon  the 
stewpan,  which  stand  a  little  distance  from 
the  fire,  putting  a  few  red-hot  cinders 
upon  the  lid  for  five  minutes ;  tie  a  nap- 
kin by  the  four  corners  upon  a  jelly-stand, 
through  which  pass  the  jelly,  having  a 
basin  beneath  to  catch'  it;  pour  the  first 
that  runs  through  again  into  the  napkin 
until  it  runs  quite  clear ;  when  all  through, 
pour  it  in  a  plain  mould  or  saute-pan, 
which  place  upon  ice  until  the  jelly  is 
quite  firm ;  then  dip  the  bottom  of  the 
mould  in  hot  water ;  turn  the  jelly  out  up- 
on a  cloth,  and  cut  it  into  whatever  shapes 


you  please,  to  garnish  and  ornament  any 
cold  savory  dish ;  the  jelly  when  warm, 
might  be  divided,  one  part  kept  white, 
and  the  other  colored  with  a  little  brown 
gravy  or  coloring,  thus  enabling  you  to 
variegate  in  garnishing. 

Should  the  jelly  be  required  to  orna- 
ment tongues,  hams,  pies,  salads,  or  any 
article,  when  no  galantine  is  made ;  then 
to  make  the  stock,  cut  the  veal  into 
small  pieces,  and  split  the  calf  s  foot  in 
two ;  put  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter 
in  a  convenient-sized  stewpan,  with  the 
veal,  foot,  a  small  piece  of  lean  ham,  and 
the  other  ingredients  as  directed  for 
galantine  ;  pour  in  half  a  pint  of  water ; 
put  on  the  lid,  and  stand  it  upon  the  fire 
until  the  bottom  ot  the  stewpan  is  covered 
with  a  white  glaze ;  then  add  a  gallon  of 
water ;  let  simmer  three  hours,  keeping 
it  well  skimmed;  pass  and  clarify  as 
above. 

The  knuckle  of  veal  and  foot  may  be 
served  hot  with  a  little  parsley  and  but- 
ter, for  a  dinner  previous  to  your  party, 
with  a  little  fried  bacon  separately ;  but 
for  my  own  part  I  prefer  them  plain  as 
they  leave  the  stewpan. 

963.-SOYEK'S  COLD  HAM. 

Procure  a  very  nice  but  small  ham  of 
about  nine  pounds  in  weight,  which  soak 
about  ten  hours  in  cold  water,  and  sim- 
mer three  hours  in  plenty  of  water  ;  when 
done,  take  out  and  let  remain  until  cold ; 
then  cut  off  the  skin  as  thinly  as  possible, 
but  without  leaving  the  marks  of  it ;  let  a 
piece  remain  upon  the  knuckle  about  two 
inches  and  a  half  in  breadth,  which  either 
festoon  or  vandyke ;  carve  the  fat  neatly 
to  form  a  shell,  if  you  can,  and  glaze  it 
over  lightly ;  serve  with  a  paper  frill  upon 
the  knuckle,  and  garnish  with  savory 
jelly,  or,  if  plain,  with  a  few  bunches  of 
fresh  green  parsley.  ,  A  handful  of  fresh 
hay  put  in  the  water  when  boiling,  is  an 
improvement. 


356 


THE  PRACTICAL  HOUSEKEEPER. 


POULTRY. 

Always  have  good  and  fat  poultry 
where  possible  ;  in  the  country  you  may 
command  it.  About  three  weeks  before 
you  want  to  use  them,  six  or  twelve 
fowls,  according,  to  your  consumption, 
should  be  put  into  the  coop,  and  as  you 
kill  one  or  more  replace  them  to  keep  up 
the  stock ;  for  the  first  week  feed  them 
alternate  days  with  boiled  rice  and  soak- 
ed bread  and  milk  :  the  remainder  of  the 
time  mix  Indian  meal  with  the  skim- 
mings of  your  stockpot  and  a  spoonful 
of  moist  sugar.  The  windows  of  your 
poultry  house  must  be  darkened. 

Fowls  should  be  carefully  drawn,  so 
that  the  gall  bladder  is  uninjured,  and 
this  should  only  be  done  through  the 
vent. 

Roast  with  a  brisk  and  clear  fire.  A 
capon  will  take  five-and-thirty  minutes ; 
smaller  fowls  a  less  time  in  proportion. 
A  turkey  of  fourteen  .pounds  will  take 
two  hours ;  the  time  will  increase  or  de- 
crease with  the  weight.  The  same  rule 
applies  to  geese  :  a  large  one  will  take 
an  hour  and  a  half;  chickens  take  half 
an  hour,  pigeons  ten  minutes  less.  It 
must  be  understood  that  the  adherence 
to  the  time  will  depend  on  the  state  of 
the  fire,  &c.;  a  slow  fire  will  make  a 
longer  time  necessary,  and  at  the  same 
time  spoil  the  poultry. 

The  French  adopt  the  following 
method  to  make  old  poultry  eat  tender  : 
— Let  the  bird  soak  in  cold  water  for 
twenty-four  hours,  with  a  handful  or  two 
of  wood-ashes;  pick  off  the  feathers, 
and  let  it  hang  for  another  twenty-four 
hours  ;  truss  it,  and  let  it  boil  for  a  quar- 
ter of  an  hour  in  a  little  veal-broth; 
take  it  out,  lard,  and  roast  it ;  when 
nearly  done,  baste  it  with  very  hot  but- 
ter. By  observing  these  directions,  you 
will  impart  to  an  old  bird  all  the  delicate 
flavor  of  a  young  chicken. 


964.— TO  BONE  BIEDS. 

Begin  to  bone  any  birds  by  first  taking 
out  the  breast  bone,  when  you  will  have 
sufficient  space  to  remove  the  back  with 
a  sharp  knife,  and  then  the  leg  bones ; 
the  skin  must  not  be  broken,  but  the 
meat  of  the  legs  must  be  pushed  in- 
wards. 

965.— TURKEY  WITH  SAUSAGE  MEAT. 

At  the  messes  of  European  regiments 
in  India,  it  is  no  uncommon  thing  to  bone 
a  turkey  and  a  fowl,  and  put  one  inside 
the  other,  filling  the  interstices  with  sau- 
sage-meat, a  small  pig  being  killed  for 
the  purpose.  A  turkey  thus  prepared 
will  take  a  long  time  roasting,  and  must 
be  placed  at  a  great  distance  from  the 
fire  at  first.  When  carved  the  slices 
should  be  cut  quite  through ;  and  epi- 
cures aver  that  it  is  One  of  the  finest 
dishes  that  come  to  table. 

966— TUEKET  EOAST. 
It  is  stuffed  with  either  sausage  meat 
or  fillet  of  veal  stuffing,  or  crumbs  of 
bread  and  veal.  While  roasting,  a  piece 
of  paper  should  be  placed  over  the  part 
stuffed,  as  being  bulky  it  will  catch  the 
fire  and  become  scorched  ;  but  keep  the 
heat  well  to  the  breast,  in  order  that  it 
may  be  as  well  done  as  the  rest  of  the 
bird.  Baste  well,  and  froth  it  up.  Serve 
with  gravy  in  the  dish,  and  bread  sauce 
in  a  tureen.  To  the  sausage  meat,  if 
used,  add  a  few  bread-crumbs  and  a 
beaten  egg.  Turkey  is  sometimes  stuffed 
with  truffles ;  they  are  prepared  thus : 
they  must  be  peeled,  and  chopped,  and 
pounded  in  a  mortar,  in  quantities  of  a 
pound  and  a  half  will  be  found  sufficient : 
rasp  the  same  weight  of  fat  of  bacon,  and 
mix  it  with  the  truffles.  Stuff  the  tur- 
key with  it ;  this  stuffing  is  usually 
placed  in  the  turkey  two  days  previous 
to  cooking :  it  is  supposed  to  impart  a 
flavor  to  the  flesh  of  the  fowl.  Cut  thin 


TURKEY. 


357 


slices  of  fat  bacon  and  place  over  the  breast 
of  the  turkey.  Secure  it  with  half  a  sheet 
of  clean  white  paper,  and  roast.  Chestnuts 
dressed  in  the  same  fashion  are  found  an 
excellent  substitute  for  truffles.  Two 
hours  will  roast  it.  If  you  wish  to  make 
plain  stuffing,  pound  a  cracker,  or  crumble 
some  bread  very  fine,  chop  some  raw  salt 
pork  very  fine,  or  use  butter ;  sift  some 
sage,  (and  summer-savory,  or  sweet  mar- 
ioram.  if  you  have  them  in  the  house, 
and  fancy  them),  and  mould  them  all  to- 
gether, season  with  a  little  pepper.  An 
egg  worked  in  makes  the  stuffing  cut 
better. 

^967.— TUEKEY  BOILED. 

A  hen  bird  is  considered  the  best.  It 
may  be  stuffed  with  truffles,  chestnuts, 
or  sausage  meat.  Boil  it  in  a  clean 
flourefl  cloth ;  throw  some  salt  into  the 
water  in  which  it  is  boiled.  Cover  close, 
and  simmer  for  two  hours ;  remove  the 
scum  frequently.  White  sauce,  or  pars- 
ley and  butter  ;  the  latter  is  now  scarcely 
ever  brought  to  table. 

968.— BOILED  TURKEY. 

Fill  the  body  with  oysters,  and  let  it 
boil  by  steam  without  any  water.  When 
sufficiently  done,  take  it  up,  strain  the 
gravy  that  will.be  found  in  the  pan,  and 
which,  when  cold,  will  be  a  fine  jelly; 
thicken  it  with  a  little  flour  and  butter, 
add  the  liquor  of  the  oysters  intended 
for  sauce,  also  stewed,  and  warm  the 
oysters  up  in  it ;  whiteji  it  with  a  little 
boiled  cream,  and  pour  it  over  the  tur- 
key. 

969.— TURKEY  WITH  SAUSAGE  MEAT  AND 
TONGUE. 

Bone  the  turkey,  then  fill  the  inside 
with  sausage  meat,  with  or  without 
tongue :  if  with  tongue  the  tongue  should 
be  boiled  the  day  before ;  cut  off  the  root 
and  tip  to  the  length  of  the  turkey ;  if 
you  have  a  fowl  to  spare,  wrap  the 
23 


tongue  in  this  after  it  is  boned,  and  place 
it  in  the  middle  of  the  turkey  surround 
ed  with  sausage  meat ;  introduce  truffles 
if  you  like ;  if  roasted,  a  slow  fire,  and 
it  will  take  a  long  time  to  roast  through ; 
if  for  boiling,  cover  it  with  fat  bacon  and 
slices  of  lemon  tied  in  a  cloth,  pour 
whatever  sauce  you  propose  over  the 
turkey. 

9TO.-TURKEY  HASHED. 

Cut  up  the  remains  of  a  roasted  tur- 
key, put  it  into  a  stewpan  with  half  a  gill 
of  sherry  wine,  shalots,  truffles,  mush- 
rooms, chopped  parsley,  salt,  pepper,  two 
spoonfuls  of  cullis,  and  a  little  stock ; 
boil  half  an  hour,  and  reduce  to  a  thick 
sauce.  When  ready  add  a  pound  of  an- 
chovies, and  a  squeeze  of  lemon.  Skim 
the  sauce  free  from  fat,  and  serve  alto- 
gether. 

971.— FOECED  TURKEY  OE  FOWL. 

Take  all  the  bones  from  the  turkey,  fill 
it  in  again  with  either  good  sausage  meat 
or  veal  forcemeat,  with  or  without  truf- 
fles as  may  be  required,  braise  it  in  a 
cloth  keeping  it  a  good  shape;  when 
dope  glaze  the  breast  a  good  color  ;  use 
silver  skewers  to  ornament  with,  and 
any  of  the  sauces  named  or  a  fricandeau 
sauce  under  it. 


French  Cooks'  Knife. 

972.— TUKKEY  POULT 

Should  be  roasted  without  stuffing;  it 
will  be  done  with  a  clear  fire  in  twenty 
minutes.  Serve  with  bread  or  gravy 


973.— TUEKEY  WITH  FLAT  SAUSAGE  CAKE. 

Roast  as  before;  fry  thirty  oval  flat 
sausages,  the  same  quantity  of  the  same 
sized  pieces  of  bacon,  a  quarter  of  an 


358 


THE   PKACTKJAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


inch  thick;  make  a  border  of  mashed 
potatoes  about  the  size  of  a  finger,  one 
inch  inside  the  edge  of  the  dish,  dress 
your  sausages  and  bacon  on  it  as  a 
crown  alternately,  put  your  turkey  in 
the  middle,  and  gravy  over,  or  glaze,  if 
at  hand.  Plain  boiled  tongue  may,  of 
course,  be  served  with  the  turkey,  or 
separate  on  a  dish  of  greens.  If  any  re- 
mains of  tongue  from  a  previous  day,  it 
may  be  served  instead  of  the  sausages, 
cut  the  same  shape  as  sausages,  and 
warmed  in  a  pan ;  if  so,  put  a  nice  green 
sprout  between  each  piece.  Bread  sauce 
is  generally  served  with  this  dish. 

974.— SOYER'S  BOILED  BRAISED  TURKEY. 

Truss  it  thus :    cut  the  neck,  leaving 

the  skin  on  ;  cut  the  legs  off;  then  run 

the  middle  finger  into  the  inside,  raise 

the  skin  of  the  legs,  and  put  them  under 

the  apron  of  the  turkey,  put  the  liver 

and  gizzard  in  the  pinions,  turn  the  small 

end  of  the  pinions  on  the  back,  run  a 

packing  needle  with  string  through  the 

joint  of  the  wing  and  middle  joint  of  the 

leg,  and  through  the  body,  and  out  at 

the  opposite  leg  and  wing,  bring  it  round 

and   tie   it  on  the  back,  then  run  the 

needle  and  string  through  the  ends  of  the 

legs  or  drumstick,  press  it  through  the 

back,  and  tie  strongly ;  it  is  then  ready. 

"When  the  turkey  is  trussed,  then  stuff 

it ;  and  if  intended  to  have  oyster  sauce 

with  it,  chop  about  two  dozen  of  oysters 

into  small  dice  and  mix  them  with  the 

stuffing,  and  place  inside  the  breast.  Then 

rub  the  breast  with  half  a  lemon,  and 

put  it  into  a  two-gallon  pan,  and  cover  it 

with  cold  water,  to  which  are  added  two 

ounces  of  butter,  one  ounce  of  salt,  four 

onions,  a  stick  of  celery,  one  carrot,  two 

turnips  sliced,  a  large  bouquet  of  parsley, 

two  bay  leaves,  two  sprigs  of  thyme  ;  set 

it  on  the  fire,  when  beginning  to  boil 

skim  it.  let  it  simmer  two  hours  or  more 

if  large ;  try  the  breast  with  a  needle,  if 

it  goes  in  and  out  easily  it  is  done ;  take 


t  out  and  set  it  on  a  dish  to  drain,  re- 
move the  string,  serve  on  a  fresh  dish 
ith  a  pint  of  good  thick  oyster  sauce 
over  it.  By  omitting  the  oysters  in 
stuffing,  you  may  serve  the  turkey  with 
celery  sauce,  tomato,  or  mushroom,  or 
z;ood  parsley  and  butter ;  and,  as  an  ac- 
companiment, a  piece  of  about  two  pounds 
of  nice  streaked  bacon,  which  hUs  been 
soiled  with  the  turkey,  and  from  which 
you  have  removed  the  skin,  and  serve  on 
some  greens,  or  Brussels  sprouts,  over 
which  you  have  thrown  a  little  salt,  pep- 
3er,  and  two  ounces  of  oiled  butter. 

You  see,  dear ,  that  this  dish  can  be 

varied  without  much  expense  and 
trouble ;  observe,  that  this  way,  the 
broth  is  good  for  soup  the  same  day,  by 
the  addition  of  two  pounds  of  veal  cut  in 
small  pieces,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  lean 
bacon,  one  onion,  one  blade  of  mace,  a 
leek,  a  wineglass  of  water ;  put  it  into  a 
separate  stewpan,  stew  on  fire  till  form- 
ing a  white  glaze,  then  add  it  to  the  tur- 
key, when  on  the  point  of  boiling ;  when 
done,  skim  off  all  fat,  pass  it  through  a 
tammy  or  cloth  ;  you  may  use  it  for  any 
clear  soup  by  adding  a  little  brown  gravy 
or  coloring,  and  also  for  any  kind  of 
puree ;  or,  by  reducing  it  a  little,  make 
white  or  brown  sauce,  adding  to  the  last 
the  proper  color. 

I  must  observe,  that  this  will  be  al- 
most inpracticable  when  you  have  a 
party ;  the  only  plan  would  be  to  get  the 
turkey  done  one  hour  before  you  require 
it,  keeping  it  hot  with  its  breast  in  some 
of  the  stock ;  but,  as  the  broth  will  keep 
well  in  small  quantities,  it  can  be  reserv- 
ed for  the  next  day.  That  is  my  plan  of 
boiling,  but  the  following  is  my  new  way 
of  giving  the  flavor  of  vegetables  to  all 
poultry,  which  is  a  decided  improvement. 
The  aroma  from  the  bird  when  the  cover 
is  removed  is  quite  inviting,  and  the  ap- 
pearance of  it,  which  is  as  white  as  alabas- 
ter, and  cuts  also  full  of  juice :  I  call 
it. 


TURKEY. 


359 


975.— EOAST  BKAISED  TJJKKEY  (Soyer.) 

Peel  and  wash  two  onions,  one  carrot, 
one  turnip,  cut  them  in  thin  slices,  also 
a  little  celery,  a  few  sprigs  of  parsley, 
two  bay-leaves,  lay  three  sheets  of  paper 
on  the  table,  spread  your  vegetables,  and 
pour  over  them  two  or  three  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  oil ;  have  your  turkey,  or  poularde, 
trussed  the  same  as  for  boiling ;  cut  a 
few  slices  of  lemon,  which  you  place  on 
the  breast  to  keep  it  white,  then  cover 
with  thin  slices  of  bacon,  and  place  the 
back  of  the  bird  on  the  vegetables ;  tie 
the  paper  round  with  string,  then  pass 
the  spit  and  set  it  before  the  fire  ;  pour 
plenty  of  fat  over  to  moisten  the  paper 
and  prevent  it  from  burning,  roast  three 
hours  at  a  pretty  good  distance  from  the 
fire:  capons  will  take  two  hours,  pou- 
lardes  one  hour  and  a  half,  fowls  one  hour, 
and  chickens  half  an  hour.  This  way  it 
may  be  served  with  almost  any  sauce  or 
garniture,  as  stewed  peas,  oyster  sauce, 
jardiniere,  stewed  celery,  cauliflower, 
stewed  cucumbers,  Jerusalem  artichokes, 
which  should  be  turned  in  the  shape  of 
a  pear :  these  should  be  dished  on  a 
border  of  mashed  potatoes ;  that  is,  an 
artichoke  and  a  Brussels  sprout  alter- 
nately, or  a  small  piece  of  white  cauli- 
flower, and  a  small  bunch  of  green  as- 
paragus, or  stewed  peas,  or  stewed  celery, 
of  two  inches  long,  never  more ;  or  any 
other  vegetable,  according  to  season, 
which  taste  or  fancy  may  dictate.  When 
I  want  to  serve  them  with  brown  gar- 
niture or  sauce,  I  remove  the  paper  and 
vegetables  twenty  minutes  before  it  is 
done,  and  give  it  a  light  golden  color, 
then  I  serve  it  with  either  a  ragout  finan- 
cier, or  mushroom,  or  English  truffle.  I 
also  often  stuff  it  thus  :  I  put  two  pounds 
of  sausage  meat  in  a  basin  with  a  little 
grated  nutmeg;  I  then  take  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  chopped  onions,  put  them  in 
a  saute-pan  with  a  little  butter,  and  let 
them  do  for  two  minutes,  which  add  to 


the  meat,  also  two  eggs  well  beaten  up, 
and  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  white  sauce,  if 
at  hand,  and  fifteen  fine  roasted  chesnuts ; 
add  this  to  the  stuffing,  and  fill  the  bird 
as  usual,  not  too  full  at  the  breast ;  roast 
as  above,  giving  half  an  hour  longer  for 
the  forcemeat ;  put  a  quart  of  demiglaze 
and  a  glass  of  sherry  in  "a  stewpan,  re- 
duce it  to  a  pint  and  a  half,  add  in  it 
fifty  button  onions  previously  stewed, 
and  twenty-five  roasted  chesnuts ;  sauce 
under. 

976.-TUEKEY,  IF  OLD. 

The  French  stew  it  exactly  like  the 
ribs  of  beef.  Soyer  says : — Put  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  butter  into  a  convenient- 
sized  stewpan,  such  as  will  conveniently 
hold  it  j  cut  one  pound  of  lean  bacon  in 
ten  or  twelve  pieces,  put  a  few  minutes 
in  the  pan  on  the  fire ;  then  add  your 
turkey  trussed  as  for  boiling,  breast 
downwards ;  set  it  on  a  moderate  fire  for 
one  hour,  and  until  it  is  a  nice  color ;  add 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  and  stir  well 
round  until  it  forms  a  roux;  then  add 
two  quarts  of  water  or  broth ;  when  you 
have  it  on  the  point  of  boiling,  add  fifty 
pieces  of  carrot  the  size  of  walnuts,  the 
like  of  turnip,  ten  button  onions,  a  good 
bouquet  of  sprigs  of  thyme,  two  bay- 
leaves,  and  ten  of  parsley,  a  small  glass 
of  rum,  a  clove,  a  piece  of  garlic,  and  let 
it  stew  gently  for  four  hours.  If  you  use 
water,  season  in  proportion.  Take  the 
turkey  out,  and  put  the  vegetables  and 
sauce  in  a  smaller  stewpan,  which  ought 
to  be  nearly  full ;  let  it  simmer  on  the 
corner  of  the  fire,  so  that  the  fat  rises  and 
may  be  removed,  and  reduce  it  to  a  demi- 
glaze ;  dish  up  the  turkey,  and  serve  with 
the  sauce  over  it ;  small  new  potatoes, 
about  twenty,  when  in  season,  may  be 
added  to  the  sauce,  or  roasted  chesnuts. 
The  remains  are  excellent  when  cold,  or 
will  warm  again  with  the  addition  of  a 
little  broth  or  water. 


360 


THE   PEACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


FOWLS. 

FOWLS,  in  a  general  sense,  mean  all 
kinds  of  poultry ;  but,  in  a  limited  view, 
one  species  of  bird.  We  distinguish  this 
kind  in  cookery,  as  the  chicken,  capon, 
pullet,  cock,  and  hen.  Chickens  from 
their  age  cannot  be  otherwise  than  ten- 
der. Capons  should  have  a  fat  vein  under 
the  wing ;  thick  belly  and  rump ;  comb 
short  and  pale;  spurs  short  and  blunt, 
and  legs  smooth.  Pullets  are  best  in  the 
spring,  just  before  they  begin  to  lay. 
Cocks  should  have  their  spurs  short,  legs 
smooth,  and  comb  short,  smooth,  and  a 
bright  color.  Hens,  legs  and  comb 
smooth,  and  full  breast.  Black  legs  are 
best  for  roasting  and  entries,  and  white 
for  boiling. 

For  preparing  them  for  table,  M.  Soyer 
invented  a  plan : — by  cutting  the  sinews 
of  the  bird,  it  not  only  appears  fuller  and 
plumper  when  cooked,  as  the  heat  is  lia- 
ble to  contract  the  sinews,  but  it  also  af- 
fords facility  for  carving  when  the  sinews 
are  divided  ;  they  are  trussed  in  the  usual 
way,  only  using  strings  instead  of  skewers. 

977.— TUEKEY  PULLED  AND  GEILLED 
Is  a  mode  of  preparing  the  remains  of 
cold  turkey,  by  mincing  the  white  meat 
and  fricasseeing  it  with  white  sauce ;  the 
legs  being  scored,  peppered,  and  salted, 
broiled,  and  sent  up  over  the  mince. 

Or  devilled^  as  thus: — On  the  rump, 
gizzard,  and  a  drumstick,  put  salt,  pep- 
per, and  cayenne.  Let  them  be  broiled, 
and  brought  to  table  as  hot  as  possible  ; 
cut  them  in  small  pieces ;  pour  over  them 
a  ladle  of  mustard;  ditto  of  melted  but- 
ter, a  spoonful^of  soy,  ditto  of  lemon-juice, 
and  some  of  the  gravy  out  of  the  dish ; 
mix  quickly  and  hand  round.  It  forms 
an  admirable  relish ;  fowls  may  be  treated 
in  the  same  manner. 

978.— CAPON,  OE  POULAEDE,        *     . 

Should  be  stuffed  and  roasted,  or  other- 


wise dressed,  in  precisely  the  same  man- 
ner as  turkey.  They  are  the  male  and 
female  of  the  common  fowl,  but,  when 
caponed,  grow  nearly  to  the  size  of  tur- 
keys, and  are  very  rarely,  if  ever,  boiled. 

979.-1  LA  PEOVENQALE. 

Ha]f  roast  the  fowl ;  cut  it  in  pieces ; 
take  a  dozen  onions ;  cut  them  in  rings  ; 
add  a  little  parsley  chopped.  Place  them 
in  a  stewpan,  laying  a  bed  of  onions  and 
parsley,  then  fowl,  till  the  whole  are  used ; 
add  a  glass  of  oil  or  cream,  with  one  or 
two  bay  leaves  and  salt ;  let  them  simmer 
slowly ;  dish  the  fowl ;  put  the  onions  in 
the  middle  ;  add  a  little  sauce,  and  send 
it  to  table. 

980.— POELEE  TO  BOIL  FOWLS  IN. 

Take  two  pounds  of  veal  and  two 
pounds  of  bacon ;  cut  both  into  large  dice ; 
cut  also  two  large  carrots  and  two  onions 
into  dice;  put  them,  with  a  pound  of 
butter,  into  a  stewpan,  the  juice  of  four 
lemons,  a  little  thyme  or  sweet  fennel, 
and  two  laurel-leaves  bruised ;  season  it 
with  salt  and  pepper ;  put  them  on  a  good 
fire  ;  add  a  spoonful  of  boiling  broth,  and 
boil  it. 

981.— FOWLS,  FOECED. 

Cut  -a  large  fowl  down  the  back;  re- 
move the  skin  from  the  whole  of  the  body 
very  carefully ;  cut  the  flesh  from  the 
bones,  and  chop  it  up  finely  with  half  a 
pint  of  oysters,  and  an  ounce  of  beef  mar- 
row ;  then  season  with  pepper  and  salt. 
Add  sufficient  cream  to  mix  it  well ;  lay 
the  meat  on  the  bones;  draw  the  skin 
over,  and  sew  up  the  back.  Lay  thin 
slices  of  bacon  on  the  breast ;  tie  them  on 
in  diamonds,  and  roast  it  an  hour  by  a 
moderate  fire.  Pour  a  good  brown  gravy 
sauce  into  the  dish.  Remove  the  bacon 
from  the  fowl,  and  then  place  the  fowl  in 
the  dish.  Garnish  with  oysters  or  mush- 
rooms, and  serve  hot. 


FOWL. 


361 


982.— E  OAST  FOWLS. 

If  nicely  trussed,  make  a  stuffing  with 
butter  and  some  pepper,  dry  up  the  butter 
with  bread-crumbs,  baste  it  well,  and  flour 
and  salt  before  you  take  it  from  the  fire. 
If  approved  of,  stuff  the  fowl  with  some 
good  sausage-meat,  truffles,  or  chestnuts, 
roast  it  twenty  minutes,  unless  a  very 
fine  one,  and  then  it  will  take  three  quar- 
ters of  an  hour ;  serve  with  bread  sauce, 
or  parsley  and  butter ;  egg  sauce  is  some- 
times sent  to  table  with  it. 

If  a  small  lump  of  salt  butter,  well 
covered  with  black  pepper,  is  placed  with- 
in the  fowl  previous  to  roasting,  it  will 
be  found  to  improve  the  fowl  by  remov- 
ing the  dryness  which  is  met  with  in  the 
back  and  side  bones. 

983.— BOILED  FOWLS. 
Flour  a  white  cloth,  and  put  the  fowls 
in  cold  water ;  let  them  simmer  three 
quarters  of  an  hour,  serve  with  parsley 
and  butter,  or  oyster  or  celery  sauce. 
The  fowls  may  be  covered  with  a  white 
sauce  if  sent  cold  to  table,  garnished 
with  colored  calf  s-foot  jelly  of  the  hue 
of  beet-root. 

Boiled  with  Oysters.— Take  a  young  fowl, 
fill  the  inside  with  oysters,  put  it  into  a  jar, 
and  plunge  the  jar  in  a  kettle  or  saucepan 
of  water.  Boil  it  for  an  hour  and  a  half. 
There  will  be  a  quantity  of  gravy  from 
the  juices  of  the  fowl  and  oysters  in  the 
jar ;  make  it  into  a  white  sauce,  with  the 
addition  of  egg,  cream,  or  a  little  flour 
and  butter ;  add  oysters  to  it,  or  serve 
it  up  plain  with  the  fowl.  The  gravy 
that  comes  from  a  fowl  dressed  in  this 
manner  will  be  a  stiff  jelly  the  next  day  ; 
the  fowl  will  be  very  white  and  tender, 
and  of  an  exceedingly  fine  flavor — ad- 
vantages not  attainable  in  ordinary  boil- 
ing— while  the  dish  loses  nothing  of  its 
delicacy  and  simplicity. 

934.— TO  BEAISE  A  FOWL. 

Bone   the    breast,   and  fill    it    with 


forcemeat.  Lay  the  bones,  and  any 
other  poultry  trimmings,  into  a  stew- 
pan,  and  the  fowl  on  them.  Put  to 
them  a  few  onipns,  a  fagot  of  herbs,  three 
blades  of  mace,  a  pint  of  stock,  and  a 
glass  or  two  of  sherry.  Cover  the  fowl 
with  slices  of  bacon,  and  then  with  white 
paper  ,  cover  the  whole  close,  and  put  it 
on  a  slow  stove  for  one  hour.  Then  take 
it  up,  strain  the  braise,  and  skim  off  the 
fat  carefully  ;  set  it  on  to  boil  very  quickly 
to  a  glaze,  and  put  it  over  the  fowl  with 
a  brush.  Serve  with  a  brown  fricassee 
of  mushrooms.  Before  glazing,  put  the 
fowl  into  an  oven  for  a  few  minutes,  to 
give  a  little  color. 


With  Eice.—ThQ  fowl  should  be  stew- 
ed very  slowly  in  some  clear  veal  or  mut- 
ton broth,  well  skimmed,  and  seasoned 
with  pepper,  salt,  mace,  and  an  onion. 
About  half  an  hour  before  it  is  ready  add 
a  gill  of  rice,  well  washed  and  soaked  ; 
simmer  until  tender,  then  strain  the  rice 
from  the  broth,  and  lay  it  on  a  sieve  be- 
fore the  fire  to  swell  ;  then  dish  the  fowl 
with  the  rice  round  it. 

White  sauce  is  the  most  fashionable 
accompaniment,  the  old  method  of  dish- 
ing with  parsley  and  butter  being  on  the 
decline;  but  as  parsley  still  maintains 
its  ground  with  many  people,  it  is  advis- 
able to  boil  a  sufficient  quantity  :  press 
and  chop  it,  garnishing  the  dish  with 
small  mounds  thus  prepared,  which  may 
be  mixed  at  table  with  the  white  sauce 
by  the  guests  who  like  the  flavor  of 
parsley.  Liver-sauce  is  sometimes  served 
with  boiled  fowls,  but  celery  or  oyster- 
sauce  is  preferable. 

985.—  FOWL  HASHED. 

This  receipt  will  serve  for  any  but  the 
very  larger  species  of  poultry  or  game  ; 
joint  thejn  and  cut  a  cutlet  from  each 
side  of  the  breast.  If  it  has  not  been 
eaten  when  previously  dressed,  break  the 
bones  of  the  body,  and  put  all  into  a 


362 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


stewpan  with  a  pint  of  water,  a  small 
faggot  of  sweet  herbs,  one  carrot  sliced, 
and  an  onion ;  let  it  stew  an  hour  and 
three  quarters,  or  two  hours,  skim  the 
fat  from  the  gravy  as  it  rises,  strain  it, 
skim  again,  and  pour  it  into  another 
stewpan ;  thicken  with  a  little  butter 
and  flour,  flavor  with  Harvey's  sauce,  or 
any  sauce  applicable  to  such  a  dish,  a 
little  pepper  and  salt,  and  ground  nut- 
meg, or  mace  for  seasoning ;  add  the 
fowl,  and  heat  it  thoroughly  through 
without  permitting  the  hash  to  come  to 
a  boil.  Sippets  of  toasted  or  fried  bread 
cut  in  dice  surround  the  dish,  in  the 
centre  of  which  the  fowl  is  handsomely 
laid. 

986.— FBIED  FOWL. 

When  you  have  cut  the  pieces  as  be- 
fore, put  them  into  a  basin  with  a  little 
salt  and  pepper,  a  spoonful  of  oil,  and 
two  of  vinegar,  and  a  little  chopped 
eschalot ;  stir  them  well  in  it,  and  let  re-r 
main  for  half  an  hour ;  have  ready  a  quan- 
tity of  batter,  and  take  a  fork  and  dip 
each  piece  one  after  the  other  into  it,  and 
then  let  it  drop  into  the  frying-pan,  in 
which  is  sufficient  hot  fat  to  cover  them  ; 
fry  a  nice  color,  and  serve  in  the  form  of 
a  pyramid,  with  fried  parsley  over,  or 
any  sauce  you  like  under. 

987.— FOWL  PILLATJ. 

Put  one  pound  of  rice  into  a  frying- 
pan  with  two  ounces  of  butter,  which 
keep  moving  over  a  slow  fire,  until  the 
rice  is  lightly  browned  ;  then  have  ready 
a  fowl  trussed  as  for  boiling,  which  put 
into  a  stewpan,  with  five  pints  of  good 
broth ;  pound  in  a  mortar  about  forty  car- 
damom seeds  with  the  husks,  half  an 
ounce  of  coriander  seeds,  and  sufficient 
cloves,  allspice,  mace,  cinnamon,  and  pep- 
percorns, to  make  two  ounces  in  the  ag- 
gregate ;  which  tie  up  tightly  in  a  cloth, 
and  put  into  the  stewpan  with  the  fowl ; 
let  it  boil  slowly  until  the  fowl  is  nearly 


done ;  then  add  the  rice,  which  let  stew 
until  quite  tender  and  almost  dry ;  have 
ready  four  onions,  which  cut  into  slices 
the  thickness  of  half  crown  pieces ;  sprin- 
kle over  with  flour,  and  fry,"  without 
breaking  them,  of  a  nice  brown  color ; 
have  also  six  thin  slices  of  bacon,  curled 
and  grilled,  and  two  eggs  boiled  hard ; 
lay  the  fowl  upon  your  dish,  which  cover 
over  with  the  rice,  forming  a  pyramid ; 
garnish  with  the  bacon,  fried  onions,  and 
the  hard-boiled  eggs  cut  into  quarters, 
and  serve  very  hot 

988.— TO  BEOIL  A  FOWL. 

Split  the  fowl  clown  the  back  j  season 
it  very  well  with  pepper,  and  put  it  on 
the  gridiron  with  the  inner  part  next  the 
fire,  which  must  be  very  clear.  Hold 
the  gridiron  at  a  considerable  distance 
from  the  fire,  and  allow  the  fowl  to  re- 
main until  it  is  nearly  half  done ;  then 
turn  it,  taking  great  care  that  it  does  not 
burn.  Broil  it  of  a  fine  brown,  and  serve 
it  up  with  stewed  mushrooms,  or  a  sauce 
with  pickled  mushrooms.  A  duck  may 
be  brpiled  in  the  same  way.  If  the  fowl 
is  very  large,  half  roast  it;  then  cut  it 
into  four  quarters  and  finish  it  on  the 
gridiron. 

989.— FEICASSEE  OF  FOWL. 

Put  the  fowl  into  a  jar,  with  sliced 
onion,  parsley,  salt,  and  a  piece  of  butter 
rolled  in  flour ;  let  it  remain  in  a  kettle 
of  water  on  the  fire  until  three  parts  done ; 
then  skim  and  strain  the  liquor,  and  after 
draining,  wipe  the  fowl  dry.  Put  it  into 
a  stewpan,  with  a  piece  of  butter  and  a 
slice  or  two  of  ham ;  throw  in  a  little 
flour,  and  shake  it  until  it  is  of  a  good 
color.  Moisten  with  the  liquor  taken  out 
of  the  jar,  adding  parsley,  young  onions, 
a  bay  leaf,  a  clove,  sorrel,  and  mushrooms 
cut  into  pieces  j  skim  it,  and  let  it  stew 
until  done ;  then  take  out  the  herbs,  and 
thicken  the  sauce  with  a  little  cream,  but 


FOWL. 


363 


do  not  let  it  boil :   finish  with  a  little 
lemon-juice,  and  pour  the  sauce  over  all. 

Or : — Rather  more  than  half-boil  in  a 
small  quantity  of  water:  let  the  fowl 
cool ;  then  cut  up,  and  put  to  simmer  in 
a  little  gravy  made  of  the  liquor  it  is 
boiled  in,  and  a  bit  of  veal  or  mutton, 
onion,  mace,  and  lemon-peel,  some  white 
pepper,  and  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs. 
When  quite  tender,  keep  it  hot  while  you 
thicken  the  sauce  in  the  following  man- 
ner :  strain  it  off,  and  put  it  back  into  the 
saucepan  with  a  little  salt,  a  scrape  of 
nutmeg,  and  a  bit  of  flour  and  butter; 
give  it  one  boil ;  and  when  you  are  going 
to  serve,  beat  up  the  yolk  of  an  egg,  and 
half  a  pint  of  cream,  and  stir  them  over 
the  fire,  but  do  not  let  them  boil. 

990.— POELE.    (French.) 

Poele  is  almost  the  same  operation  as 
braising ;  the  only  difference  is,  that  what 
is  poele  must  be  underdone,  and  a  braise 
must  be  done  through. 

As  the  poele  has  no  translation,  it  re- 
tains its  name ;  it  is  indispensable  in  fine 
cookery,  and  is  made  as  follows : — 

Take  one  pound  of  beef  suet,  one  pound 
of  very  fresh  butter,  and  one  pound  of 
very  fat  bacon;  cut  the  suet  and  the  ba- 
con into  very  large  dice ;  put  them  into  a 
stewpan  with  two  pounds  of  veal  cut  in 
the  same  manner,  fried  till  the  veal  be- 
comes very  white,  and  then  moisten  with 
about  three  pints  of  clear  boiling  water, 
a  handful  of  salt,  one  bay  leaf,  a  few  sprigs 
of  thyme,  one  onion  stuck  with  three 
cloves,  and  a  great  bundle  of  parsley  and 
green  onions :  let  the  whole  boil  gently 
till  the  onion  is  done;  then  drain  it 
through  a  hair  sieve,  and  use  it  for  any 
thing  that  may  want  poele.  The  use  of 
poele  is  to  make  every  thing  boiled  in  it 
very  white  and  tasty :  in  the  winter  it 
keeps  for  a  week,  and  is  very  useful  in 
the  larder,  particularly  if  you  do  not  put 
in  any  of  the  fleshy  part  of  the  bacon  j 


otherwise  the  meat  that  you  boil  in  it  will 
turn  quite  red,  on  account  of  the  saltpetre 
used  in  curing  the  bacon. 

991.— EISSOLES. 

Pick  from  the  bones  and  skin  any  kind 
of  cold  poultry ;  weigh  it,  and  add  one- 
third  of  grated  bread-crumbs,  a  little  cold 
melted  butter,  a  small  onion,  previously 
boiled  and  finely  minced,  pepper,  salt,  and 
the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  to  bind  it  together. 
Roll  out,  thin,  some  trimmings  of  puff- 
paste  ;  cut  it  in  two  inch  square  pieces  j 
put  in  the  middle  of  each  a  teaspoonful 
of  the  mince ;  fold  the  paste  over  it,  and 
shape  it  with  a  cutter.  Egg  the  shapes ; 
dip  them  in  bread-crumbs,  and  fry  them 
in  lard ;  serve  dry ;  garnish  with  fried 
parsley,  and  take  care  that  the  edges  be 
perfectly  closed. 

Or : — Pound  any  kind  of  cold  meat ; 
thicken  a  little  good  gravy  with  cream  or 
butter ;  season  the  meat,  and  mix  it  with 
the  sauce,  until  it  is  well  moistened ;  then 
roll  out  some  paste  into  oval  pieces  ;  lay 
a  large  table-spoonful  of  the  meat  on  one 
end ;  double  it  over ;  press  the  edges  to- 
gether, and  scallop  them ;  brush  the  paste 
over  with  yolk  of  egg ;  sprinkle  vermicelli 
upon  it,  and  fry  them. 

991.— PUEEE  DE  VOLAILLE. 

Mince  the  white  part  of  a  cold  fowl  or 
turkey  very  finely ;  then  pound  it  in  a 
mortar :  put  in  two  or  three  spoonfuls  of 
white  sauce,  and  pass  it  through  a  sieve, 
adding  a  little  salt  and  white  pepper,  and 
warm  the  whole.  It  may  be  served  up 
with  the  legs  grilled.  It  should  not  be 
too  thin,  but  can  be  made  the  proper  con- 
sistence by  a  greater  or  smaller  quantity 
of  white  sauce  or  cream.  Garnish  with 
fried  bread,  or  paste  cut  in  shapes.  It 
may  also  be  served  up  in  a  casserolle,  or 
wall  of  rice  and  mashed  potatoes,  or  with 
poached  eggs. 


364 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


993.— BOILED  CHICKENS. 

Chickens  should  be  plump,  or  they 
form  a  meagre  dish ;  they  should  receive 
much  attention  in  the  boiling;  they  re- 
quire less  time  than  a  fowl,  and  are  sent 
to  table  with  white  sauce,  and  garnished 
with  tufts  of  white  broccoli. 

994— CHICKENS  PULLED. 
Remove  the  skin  carefully  from  a  cold 
chicken,  then  pull  the  flesh  from  the 
bones,  preserving  it  as  whole  as  you  can. 
Flour  them  well,  fry  them  a  nice  brown 
in  fresh  butter ;  draw  them,  and  stew  in 
a  good  gravy  well  seasoned ;  thicken  a 
short  time  before  serving  with  flour  and 
butter,  and  add  the  juice  of  half  a  lem«n. 

995.— CUEEIED  CHICKENS. 

Lay  the  pieces  of  a  dressed  chicken 
into  a  stewpan  with  a  sliced  onion  fried 
brown,  a  clove  of  garlic,  and  some  good 
white  gravy :  simmer  till  the  chicken  is 
tender,  add  a  spoonful  of  curry  powder, 
flour  rubbed  smooth  with  a  lump  of  but- 
ter ;  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  cream,  with  a 
little  salt,  may  be  added  twenty  minutes 
before  serving:  squeeze  a  little  lemon 
into  it,  and  put  an  edging  of  rice  round 
the  dish. 

996.— TO  BEAISE  CHICKENS. 
Bone  the  chickens,  stuff  them  with 
forcemeat,  place  in  the  stewpan  the  bones 
and  trimmings :  lay  the  chickens  upon 
them  with  a  braise  of  sweet  herbs,  onions, 
mace  whole,  some  thin  slices  of  bacon, 
about  three  parts  of  a  pint  of  stock,  or, 
if  that  is  not  handy,  water,  two  glasses 
of  sherry :  the  bacon  should  be  added 
last.  Cover  close,  and  stew  for  two 
hours.  Then  take  out  the  chickens, 
strain  the  braise,  remove  the  fat,  and 
boil  the  braise  rapidly  to  a  glaze,  paint 
it  over  the  chickens  with  a  brush  while 
the  braise  is  being  boiled;  brown  the 
chickens  before  the  fire ;  it  adds  to  their 


appearance.    When  glazed,  fowls  may  be 
braised  in  the  same  manner. 

997.— FEIED  CHICKEN  A  LA  MALABAR. 

The  Indian  receipts  for  cooking  chicken 
are  very  numerous;  we  select  the  fol- 
lowing. Cut  up  the  fowl  as  for  a  stew, 
removing  the  joints  carefully  and  carving 
the  body  into  handsome  shapes ;  remove 
all  moisture  with  a  clean  dry  cloth,  and 
powder  every  part  with  curry ;  fry  it  in 
fresh  butter,  to  which  half  a  teaspoon - 
ful  of  curry  has  been  added,  a  pale 
brown ;  cut  into  small  pieces  two  or  three 
onions,  and  fry  in  clear  butter,  sufficient 
to  keep  the  pan  from  burning  ;  but  not 
more  than  should  be  absorbed  by  the  onion 
after  some  time  frying.  It  is  as  well  here 
to  say,  that  as  onions  are  frequently  used 
in  "the  curried  poultry  by  the  Indian 
cooks,  they  employ  the  following  method. 
When  to  be  cut  small,  they  slice  the 
onions  and  then  separate  them  into  rings, 
cutting  these  rings  i#to  the  sizes  they 
may  require,  which,  if  a  little  more  labor, 
yet  presents  a  better  appearance ;  when 
they  are  fried  sufficiently  to  have  absorb- 
ed the  grease  in  the  pan  without  in  any 
degree  having  been  burned,  spread  them 
over  the  chicken  and  serve;  a  whole 
lemon  should  be  sent  to  table  with  them. 

993.— PIGEONS  ROASTED. 

Veal  stuffing  for  pigeons  improves  the 
flavor ;  they  must  be  fresh  and  well 
cleaned;  butter  and  parsley  may  be 
served  with  them,  but  parsley  alone  as  a 
stuffing,  though  frequently  used,  is  by  n« 
means  so  palatable  as  the  veal  stuffing,  or 
one  made  with  veal,  the  fat  of  bacon  and 
the  crumb  of  bread  soaked  in  milk  and 
well  seasoned.  Let  your  pigeons  be 
picked  clean  and  washed,  then  stuff  the 
whole  inside  of  the  pigeon  with  fine  stuf- 
fing. 

To  Broil. — Split  the  backs,  season  them 
highly,  lay  them  over  a  clear  brisk  fire ; 
serve  with  mushroom  sauce. 


PIGEONS. 


365 


To  Cook  as  WoodcocJcs. — Toast  some 
bread  as  for  woodcocks,  butter  it,  and 
drop  a  few  drops  of  essence  of  anchovies 
on  the  butter,  spread  it  all  over  the 
toast,  then  put  the  toast  under  the  pi- 
geons while  roasting. 

To  Stew. — Take  a  white  cabbage,  cut 
it  as  for  pickling,  rinse  it  in  clear  cold 
water,  drain  it  well,  put  it  into  a  sauce- 
pan with  equal  quantities  of  milk  and 
water,  boil  it,  strain  oif  the  milk,  and 
take  a  portion  of  the  cabbage  and  lay  it 
in  a  stewpan ;  soak  the  pigeons  for  half 
an  hour  in  cold  milk  and  water,  season 
them  well  with  salt  and  pepper,  adding  a 
little  cayenne ;  place  them  in  the  stew- 
pan  with  the  cabbage,  cover  them  over 
with  what  remains,  add  some  white  broth, 
stew  slowly  until  the  pigeons  are  tender, 
thicken  with  a  little  cream,  flour,  and 
butter;  let  it  boil,  and  serve  up  the 
pigeon  with  a  puree  of  the  cabbage. 
Lard  and  braise  them  in  the  same  man- 
ner as  chickens. 

999.— COMP6TE  OF  PIGEONS. 

Blanch  four  pigeons,  then  stuff  them, 
place  them  in  a  stewpan,  put  in  an  on- 
ion, a  slice  of  lemon,  and  a  small  handful 
of  mushrooms  ;  lay  over  them  slices  of 
fat  bacon,  add  half  a  pint  of  good  gravy, 
and  stew  gently  until  the  pigeons  are 
tender  ;  take  them  out  of  the  gravy  and 
keep  them  hot,  strain  off  the  gravy,  skim 
it  clear,  then  thicken  with  half  a  spoon- 
ful of  flour,  and  a  lump  of  butter,  the 
size  of  a  small  walnut ;  season  with  salt, 
pepper,  and  a  little  cayenne ;  a  few  force- 
meat balls  may  be  added  at  pleasure ; 
pour  half  into  the  dish  with  the  pigeons, 
and  serve  the  remainder  in  a  tureen. 

1000.-PIGEONS  IN  JELLY. 

Make  some  jelly  of  calf's  foot,  or  if 
you  have  the  liquor  in  which  a  knuckle 
of  veal  has  been  boiled,  it  will  answer 
the  same  purpose ;  place  it  in  a  stewpan 


with  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  a  blade  of 
mace,  white  pepper,  a  slice  of  lean  bacon, 
some  lemon-peel,  and  the  pigeons,  which, 
being  trussed  and  their  necks  propped  up 
to  make  them  appear  natural,  season  to 
your  palate.  Bake  them;  when  they  are 
done  remove  them  from  the  liquor,  but 
keep  them  covered  close,  that  their  color 
may  be  preserved.  Remove  the*  fat,  boil 
the  whites  of  a  couple  of  eggs  with  the 
jelly  to  clear  it,  and  strain  it;  this  is 
usually  done  by  dipping  a  cloth  into 
boiling  water,  and  straining  it  through  it, 
as  it  prevents  any  thing  like  scum  or  dirt 
sweeping  through  the  strainer.  Put  the 
jelly  rough  over  and  round  the  pigeons. 

1001.— PIGEONS  OE  ANT  BIED  IN  ASPIC 
JELLY. 

Get  three  pigeons,  take  out  the  bones, 
leaving  on  the  neck  and  head ;  fill  the 
birds  with  some  forcemeat,  making  them 
the  shape  of  the  bird,  cover  them  with 
fat  bacon,  put  them  on  a  dish,  place  them 
in  the  oven  until  done,  take  them  out  to 
get  cold,  have  ready  some  very  light 
colored  aspic  jelly ;  either  chop  your  jelly 
round  them  on  the  dish  or  in  a  mould,  if 
in  a  mould  place  the  breast  downwards, 
let  the  jelly  be  quite  cold  and  beginning 
to  set  before  you  pour  it  in ;  I5ut  if  you 
intend  to  ornament  your  mould,  do  it 
with  green,  red,  and  white  devices,  with 
what  may  then  be  in  season  ;  radishes, 
whites  of  hard  eggs,  cucumbers,  French 
beans,  truffles,  and  any  other  eatable  and 
wholesome  thing :  never  use  any  thing 
that  is  injurious  to  health ;  set  it  to  get 
stiff,  turn  out  with  warm  water. 

1002.—  LAKES  OE  SMALL  BIEDS. 

Be  very  particular  in  roasting ;  melt  a 
little  butter,  add  to  it  a  yolk  of  egg,  and 
with  your  paste-brush  egg  all  over  them, 
and  then  bread-crumb  them  ;  while  roast- 
ing frequently  baste  them  and  flour 
them,  and  before  you  take  them  up  flour 


366 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


and  salt  them  ;  send  them  up  with  some 
brown  bread-crumbs. 

1008.— GUINEA  FOWLS. 

These  birds  must  be  very  young,  for, 
being  naturally  very  dry,  they  are  not 
eatable  if  more  than  twelve  months  old ; 
they  are  generally  larded,  and  served 
plain  roasted,  rather  well  done ;  they  are 
trussed  like  the  common  fowl,  and  re- 
quire nearly  three-quarters  of  an  hour  to 
roast.  It  has  very  much  the  flavor  of 
the  pheasant,  and  should  be  allowed  to 
hang  as  long  as  it  can  without  being  too 
far  gone.  Serve  with  a  rich  brown  gravy 
and  bread  sauce ;  it  will  take  from  forty- 
five  to  fifty  minutes. 

1004.— PEA  FOWLS. 

These  magnificent  birds  make  a  noble 
roast,  and  when  young  are  very  excel- 
lent ;  they  are  larded,  or  plain  roasted, 
and  served  with  the  tail  feathers  which 
hlive  been  preserved,  stuck  into  the  bird, 
the  head,  with  its  feathers  on,  being  left 
folded  up  in  paper,  and  tucked  under  the 
wing ;  roast  about  an  hour  and  a  half; 
take  the  paper  from  the  head  and  neck ; 
dress  it  upon  your  dish  with  water- 
cresses,  and  the'  gravy  and  bread  sauce 
separate  tn  a  boat. 


MADE  DISHES  OF  POULTRY. 

1005.— FOWL  1  LA  PKOVENgAL. 

Partly  roast  the  fowl ;  cut  it  up,  de- 
taching the  wings  and  legs,  carefully  di- 
viding side  bones,  neck  bones,  breast,  and 
back  in  as  handsome  pieces  as  possible ; 
take  eight  or  ten  large  onions,  which  cut 
in  slices  of  moderate  thickness,  make  in 
a  stewpan  a  layer  of  the  sliced  onion 
with  some  chopped  parsley,  then  lay 
upon  it  some  of  the  fowl,  again  a  layer 
of  the  onion  and  parsley  until  the  whole 


of  the  fowl  and  onion  are  used ;  place  in 
two  bay-leaves  and  about  as  much  salt 
as  would  fill  a  large  teaspoon,  four  table- 
spoonfuls  of  olive  oil,  or,  if  that  is  not 
to  the  palate,  substitute  cream ;  it  should 
simmer  gently  until  enough,  and  then  be 
dished,  the  onion  in  the  middle:  serve 
with  a  little  sauc 

1006.— FOWL  1  LA  BECHAMEL. 

If  you  have  had  a  roast  capon  for  the 
second  course  the  day  before,  and  only  a 
little  cut  from  the  breast,  take  a  sharp 
knife  and  cut  through  the  breast  bone 
down  nearly  to  the  rump,  left  of  the 
breast,  take  off  the  skin  and  cut  it  up  as 
you  would  for  pulled  fowl;  have  ready 
in  a  stewpan  a  little  good  white  sauce, 
chopped  parsley,  and  shalot,  a  little  piece 
of  mushroom  chopped ;  boil  all  this  to- 
gether, keeping  it  quite  thick,  scrape  out 
any  thing  remaining  in  the  inside  of  the 
fowl,  then  season  with  lemon-juice,  salt, 
and  cayenne  pepper  :  fill  in  the  fowl,  imi- 
tating a  whole  fowl,  cover  it  with  bread- 
crumbs, sprinkle  clarified  butter  all  over 
the  bread-crumbs,  butter  paper  and  tie 
round  the  fowl,  put  it  into  the  oven  to 
brown  the  top  and  get  hot  through ; 
when  done  a  light  brown  take  off  the 
paper,  and  put  it  into  your  dish  with  a 
good  sauce  under  it. 

1007.— AN  INDIAN  PILAU. 

Truss  a  fowl  as  for  boiling,  pass  it  a 
few  minutes  in  the  oven,  raising  it  up 
with  fat  bacon  or  buttered  paper;  fry 
some  onions,  a  few  bruised  coriander' 
seeds,  and  a  few  cardamom  seeds  whole : 
fry  a  nice  light  color  four  onions  cut  in 
slices,  add  to  this  a  gill  or  more  of  cream, 
having  all  fried  in  a  little  butter ;  put  in 
your  fowl  with  some  good  veal  stock, 
have  ready  some  rice  boiled  in  milk  for 
two  minutes,  skim  it  off  and  add  it  to 
the  fowl,  frequently  looking  at  it  and 
moving  it  to  keep  it  from  sticking  or 


DISHES   OF   POULTRY. GOOSE. 


367 


burning :  let  your  fowl  stew  for  a  quar- 
ter of  an  hour  before  you  add  the  rice : 
do  not  let  the  rice  get  mashed ;  season 
with  cayenne  pepper  and  salt,  put  all  the 
rice  and  liquor  round  the  fowl :  you  can 
use  rabbits,  or  chickens,  or  quails,  or  veal, 
instead  of  fowl,  the  same  way. 

Gravy  may  be  made  thus:  Nicely 
wash  the  feet  of  a  fowl,  and  cut  them 
and  the  neck  into  small  pieces,  simmer 
them  with  a  little  browned  bread,  a  slice 
of  onions,  a  bit  of  parsley,  and  thyme, 
some  pepper,  and  salt,  and  the  liver  and 
gizzard  in  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  water ; 
simmer  them  till  they  are  reduced  to  a 
half;  take  out  the  liver,  bruise  it,  and 
strain  the  liquor  to  it,  then  thicken  it 
with  flour  and  butter,  and  add  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  mushroom  ketchup. 

1008.— CUEET  OF  CHICKEN. 

Cut  up  a  raw  chicken ;  put  into  a 
stewpan,  with  two  ounces  of  butter,  half 
a  large  onion  sliced  thin,  a  few  sprigs  of 
parsley  and  thyme,  and  two  ounces  of 
lean  ham ;  let  the  whole  sweat  over  the 
fire  for  a  few  minutes ;  add  a  heaped  ta- 
ble-spoonful of  curry-powder,  and  a  small 
one  of  flour ;  shake  the  whole  together 
for  five  minutes  over  the  fire  ;  put  to  it 
a  pint  of  either  gravy  or  water  ;  let  the 
whole  go  gently  until  the  chicken  is 
done  ;  take  out  the  chicken,  rub  the  sauce 
through  a  sieve,  boil  it  up,  skim,  put  in 
the  chicken,  season  with  salt  and  lemon- 
juice  to  palate.  Plain  boiled  rice  to  be 
served  in  a  separate  dish. 

Croquettes. — Take  the  lean  of  the  re- 
mains of  a  fowl  from  a  previous  dinner, 
and  chop  it  up  in  small  pieces,  then  put 
into  a  stewpan  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped 
eschalots,  with  half  an  ounce  of  butter : 
pass  them  for  about  three  minutes  over 
the  fire,  add  a  teaspoonful  of  flour,  mix 
well,  then  add  the  fowl,  and  a  gill  of 
white  sauce,  or  more  if  not  sufficiently 
moist;  season  with  pepper,  salt,  and 
sugar ;  then  stir  hi  the  yolks  of  two  eggs 


very  quickly,  stir  it  a  little  longer  on  the 
fire,  and  turn  it  out  on  a  dish  to  cool ; 
when  cold,  take  twelve  pieces,  each  the 
size  of  a  walnut,  roll  them  out  an  inch 
and  a  half  in  length,  and  bread-crumb 
twice  over ;  fry  a  good  color. 

1009.— DUMPOKHT.* 

Clean  and  truss  a  fowl,  or  rabbit,  as 
for  roasting ;  then  stuff  it  with  sultana 
raisins,  pistachio-nuts,  and  boiled  rice  in 
equal  parts.  Rub  fine  one  ounce  of  co- 
riander-seed, freed  from  the  husks,  four 
onions,  a  dozen  peppercorns,  six  cloves, 
and  a  teaspoonful  of  pounded  ginger. 
Set  twelve  ounces  of  butter  in  a  stewpan 
over  the  fire,  rub  the  pounded  ingredi- 
ents over  the  fowl  or  rabbit,  and  let  it 
fry  until  perfectly  well  browned  and 
tender.  Have  boiled  in  a  quart  of  white 
broth  twelve  ounces  of  rice,  two  ounces 
of  raisins,  two  ounces  of  pistachio-nuts, 
and  two  of  almonds,  the  two  latter 
blanched,  and  cut  into  thin  slices.  When 
the  rice  is  nearly  tender,  strain  off  the 
broth,  and  add  the  rice  to  the  fried  fowl ; 
stir  the  whole  well,  that  the  butter  may 
completely  saturate  the  rice,  and  keep  it 
near  the  fire  to  swell  till  wanted.  In 
serving  surround  the  fowl  with  the  rice. 

Observe  that,  in  pounding  the  onions, 
the  juice  only  is  used  with  the  spices. 

1010.— TUEKEY  GIBLETS  A  LA  BOUB-       ' 
GEOIS. 

The  giblets  consist  of  pinions,  feet, 
neck,  liver,  anfl  gizzard ;  scald,  and  put 
them  into  a  stewpan  with  a  piece  of  but- 
ter, parsley,  scallions.  garlic,  thyme,  bay- 
leaf,  basil,  mushrooms,  and  a  clove  or  two ; 
moisten  with  stock,  season  with  pepper 
and  salt,  make  it  hot,  thicken  with  a 
little  flour,  and  when  almost  done  add  a 
few  turnips  fried  slightly  in  a  little  but- 
ter. 


*  A  dish  mentioned  in  the  Arabian  Nights  as  the 
kid  stuffed  with  pistachio-nuts. 


368 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


1011.-TO  ROAST  A  GOOSE. 

Goose  in  itself  is  of  a  strong  rich  fla- 
vor, and  requires  both  nicety  in- the  cook- 
ing as  well  as  in  the  stuffing  to  obviate 
that  strength  of  flavor.  There  are  many 
modes  of  stuffing;  for  one  mode,  take 
two  moderate  sized  onions  and  boil  them 
rapidly  ten  minutes,  then  chop  them 
finely,  mince  sage  to  the  quantity  of 
half  the  onion,  add  of  powdered  bread 
twice  as  much  as  of  onion,  pepper  and 
salt  it,  introducing  a  little  cayenne,  and 
then  bind  it  with  the  beaten  yolk  of  an 
egg.  Potatoes  mashed  are  sometimes 
introduced,  but  not  frequently  into  the 
body ;  they  should  be  mashed  with  floury 
potatoes  mixed  with  cream  and  a  little 
fresh  butter  rather  highly  seasoned  with 
cayenne  and  salt.  Both  ends  of  the 
goose  should  be  secured  when  trussed, 
that  the  seasoning  may  not  escape.  It 
shouM  be  roasted  before  a  quick  fire  and 
kept  constantly  basted ;  a  piece  of  white 
paper  may  be  placed  over  the  breast 
while  roasting  until  it  rises,  and  then  it 
may  be  removed ;  it  will  take  from  an 
hour  and  a  half  to  an  hour  and  three- 
quarters  :  serve  with  a  rich  brown  gravy 
and  apple  sauce. 

Previous  to  sending  to  table,  a  flavor- 
ing may  be  made  as  follows  :  to  a  dessert- 
spoonful of  made  mustard  add  a  quarter 
of  a  teaspoonful  of  cayenne  pepper,  about 
the  same  quantity  of  salt,  mix  it  evenly 
with  a  glass  of  port  wine  and  two  glasses 
of  rich  gravy,  make  it  hot,  cut  a  slit  in 
the  apron  of  the  goose,  and  pour  it 
through  just  previously  to  serving. 

A  Green  Goose  is  seldom  or  never 
stuffed ;  the  inside  may  be  well  peppered 
and  salted,  and  it  should  be  roasted  be- 
fore a  brisk  fire  about  three-quarters  of 
an  hour ;  it^  should  be  sent  to  table  with 
no  other  accompaniment  than  a  good 
brown  gravy  and  apple  or  sorrel  sauce. 

1012.— PRESERVED  GOOSE  FOR  THE  FARM 
OR  COUNTRY  HOUSE. 

In  case  you  have  more  geese  in  condi- 


tion and  season  than  what  you  consume, 
kill  and  cut  them  up  into  pieces,  so  that 
there  shall  be  as  little  flesh  left  on  the 
carcass  as  possible,  and  bone  the  leg ; 
rub  into  each  piece  with  your  fingers 
some  salt,  in  which  you  have  mixed  a 
little  saltpetre  ;  put  them  into  an  earthen 
pan,  with  some  thyme,  bay-leaf,  spice, 
a  clove  of  chopped  garlic,  rub  them  for 
a  couple  of  days,  after  which  dip  each 
piece  in  water,  and  dry  on  a  cloth  ;  when 
you  have  chopped  fine  and  melted  all 
the  fat  you  could  get  from  the  goose,  and 
scraped  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fat  ba- 
con and  melted  with  it,  pass  through  a 
sieve  into  a  stewpan,  lay  the  pieces  in  it, 
and  bake  very  gently  in  a  slow  oven, 
until  a  stiff  piece  of  straw  will  go 
through  it,  then  lay  it  in  a  sieve  ;  when 
nearly  cold  put  it  in  a  bowl  or  round 
preserving  jar,  and  press  a  smaller  one 
on  the  top,  so  that  it  all  forms  one  solid 
mass,  pour  the  fat  over,  when  cold  cover 
with  a  piece  of  bladder,  keep  it  in  a  cold 
place,  and  it  will  be  good  for  months  to- 
gether, and  is  excellent  for  breakfast, 
luncheon,  or  supper,  having  previously 
extracted  the  fat.  Last  winter  I  kept 
some  for  three  months  quite  sweet ;  hav- 
ing half  a  one  left,  I  put  it  by  in  the 
above  way,  bones  and  all,  in  a  basin,  and 
covered  with  the  fat  produced  by  roast- 
ing, and  put  it  in  the  larder,  and  it  was 
excellent.  Ducks  may  be  served  in  the 
same  way. 

Marbled  Goose. — Take  a  fine  mellow 
ox-tongue  out  of  pickle,  cut  off  the  root 
and  horny  part  at  the  tip,  wipe  dry,  and 
boil  till  it  is  quite  tender ;  then  peel  it, 
cut  a  deep  slit  in  its  whole  length,  and 
lay  a  fair  proportion  of  the  following 
mixture  within  it : — Mace  half  an  ounce, 
nutmeg  half  an  ounce,  clove  half  an  ounce, 
salt  two  table-spoonfuls,  and  twelve 
olives.  The  olives  should  be  stoned,  and 
all  the  ingredients  well  pounded  together. 
Next  take  a  barn-door  fowl  and  a  good 
large  goose,  and  bone  them.  Lay  the 


DUCKS. 


369 


tongue  inside  the  fowl,  rub  the  latter  out- 
side with  the  seasoning,  and  having  ready 
some  slices  of  ham  divested  of  the  rind, 
wrap  them  tightly  round  the  fowl;  put 
these  inside  the  goose,  with  the  remain- 
der of  the  seasoning,  sew  it  up,  and 
make  all  secure  and  in  natural  shape 
with  a  piece  of  new  linen  and  tape.  Put 
it  in  an  earthen  pan  or  jar  just  large 
enough  to  hold  it,  with  plenty  of  clari- 
fied butter,  and  bake  it  two  hours  and  a 
half  in  a  slow  oven ;  then  take  it  out, 
and  when  cold  take  out  the  goose  and  set 
it  in  a  sieve ;  take  off  the  butter  and 
hard  fat.  which  put  by  the  fire  to  melt, 
adding,  if  required,  more  clarified  butter. 
Wash  and  wipe  out  the  pan,  put  the  bird 
again  into  it,  and  take  care  that  it  is  well 
covered  with  the  warm  butter  ;  then  tie 
the  jar  down  with  bladder  and  leather. 
It  will  keep  thus  for  a  long  time.  When 
wanted  for  the  table,  the  jar  should  be 
placed  in  a  tub  of  hot  water  so  as  to 
melt  the  butter,  the  goose  then  can  be 
taken  out,  the  cloth  taken  off  it,  and  sent 
to  table  cotd.  A  most  delicious  dish  for 
breakfasts,  suppers,  pic-nics,  &c. 


DUCKS. 

Ducks  may  be  roasted  as  soon  as  kill- 
ed. Keep  a  clear  bright  fire.  Let  them 
be  done  of  a  light  brown,  but  if  wild  they 
should  not  be  much  roasted,  or  the 
flavor  will  be  spoiled.  They  take  about 
an  hour  to  roast,  and  should  be  well 
basted.  The  livers  and  gizzards  are  par- 
boiled, chopped  fine,  and  thrown  into  the 
gravy. 

Canvas  back  ducks  are  roasted  in  half 
an  hour;  they  should  always  be  served 
with  currant  jelly.  For  tame  ducks  apple 
sauce  is  more  appropriate. 

101S.— TO  STEW  DUCKS. 

There  is  a  difference  between  a  stewed 


duck  and  stewed  duck,  and  it  is  not  the 
a  alone ;  in  the  one  case  the  duck  is 
stewed  whole,  and  in  the  other  in  pieces. 
To  stew  a  duck  or  ducks ,  they  should  be 
stuffed  and  roasted  for  twenty  minutes, 
and  then  placed  in  a  stewpan  with  an 
onion  cut  in  slices,  a  little  sage 'and  mint, 
and  sweet  herbs  chopped  fine,  and  about 
a  pint  of  good  beef  gravy,  seasoned  with 
pepper  and  salt ;  let  it  stew  gently  for 
about  twenty  minutes,  take  out  the  duck 
carefully  and  keep  it  warm,  strain  the 
gravy,  pour  it  into  a  clean  stewpan,  and 
add  to  it  when  well  heated  the  duck  and 
a  quart  of  green  peas  ;  let  it  simmer  for 
half  an  hour,  if  not  sufficiently  thick  add 
a  little  flour  and  butter,  a  glass  of  good 
old  port  wine,  and  send  to  table  with  the 
peas  in  the  same  dish  as  the  duck. 

1014.— TO  STEW  A  DUCK  WITH  CLAEET. 

Make  a  gravy  of  the  giblets  ;  rub  the 
duck  inside  and  outside  with  pepper  and 
a  little  salt ;  peel  and  mince  two  or  three 
onions,  and  having  half  roasted  the  duck, 
put  it  into  a  stewpan  with  the  gravy 
and  onions.  Stew  it  gently  for  two 
hours,  adding  toward  the  end  a  glass  of 
claret  or  port  wine.  Squeeze  the  'juice 
of  a  lemon  over  the  duck,  and  serve  it 
with  toasted  bread. 

What  remains  of  a  roasted  wild  duck, 
may  be  warmed  the  next  day  in  heaters 
with  a  little  currant  jelly,  when  it  is  ex- 
cellent. 

Ducks  may  be  hashed  and  stewed  with 
a  glass  of  port  wine,  thrown  into  the 
gravy. 

1015.— TO  BOIL  DUCKS. 

Clean  and  pluck  them,  let  the  skin  be 
preserved  from  rents  while  plucking,  salt 
them  for  about  thirty  hours  previous  to 
cooking,  flour  a  clean  white  cloth  and 
boil  them  in  it ;  a  moderate  sized  duck 
will  take  about  an  hour's  boiling,  make 
a  rich  onion  sauce  with  milk,  and  send  it 
to  table  with  the  duck.  When  the  duck 


370 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


is  boiled  fresh  it  may  be  stuffed  as  for 
roasting,  and  served  with  the  same  de- 
scription of  gravy. 

1016.— STEWED  DUCK  AND  PEAS. 
Procure  a  duck  trussed  with  the  legs 
turned  inside,  which  put  into  a  stewpan 
with  two  ounces  of  butter  and  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  streaked  bacon,  let  remain 
over  a  fire,  stirring  occasionally  until 
lightly  browned,  when  add  a  tablespoon- 
ful  of  flour  mixed  well,  and  a  quart  of 
broth  or  water :  stir  round  gently  until 
boiling,  when  skim,  and  add  twenty  but- 
ton onions,  a  bunch  of  parsley,  with  a 
bay-leaf,  and  two  cloves,  let  simmer  a 
quarter  of  an  hour,  then  add  a  quart  of 
nice  young  peas,  let  simmer  until  done, 
which  will  take  about  half  an  hour  longer, 
take  out  the  duck,  place  it  upon  your 
dish  (taking  away  the  string  it  was  truss- 
ed with),  take  out  the  parsley  and  bay- 
leaf,  season  the  peas  with  a  little  pepper, 
salt,  and  sugar,  skim  the  fat,  reduce  a 
little  if  not  sufficiently  thick,  pour  over 
the  duck,  and  serve. 

1017.-DUCKLING-  WITH  TURNIPS 
Is  a  very  favorite  dish  among  the  mid- 
dle classes  in  France.  Proceed  as  in  the 
last,  but  instead  of  peas  use  about  forty 
pieces  of  good  turnips  cut  into  moderate- 
sized  square  pieces,  having  previously 
fried  them  of  a  light  yellow  color  in  a 
little  butter  or  lard,  and  drained  them 
upon  a  sieve ;  dress  the  duck  upon  a  dish 
as  before,  season  the  sauce  with  a  little 
pepper,  salt,  and  sugar:  reduce  until 
rather  thick,  a  thin  sauce  not  suiting  a 
dish  of  this  description  j  the  turnips 
must  not,  however,  be  in  puree  j  sauce 
over  and  serve. 

1018.— WILD  DUCKS,  OR  TEAL. 
You  must  be  very  particular  in  not 
roasting  these  birds  too  much;  baste 
them  very  frequently ;  teal  will  of  course 


take  less  time ;  but  your  fire  and  motion 
of  the  spit  must  be  attended  to,  and  when 
you  dish  it,  unless  preferred  to  be  done 
by  the  gentleman  at  the  table,  draw  your 
knife  four  times  down  the  breast ;  have 
ready  a  little  hot  butter,  and  juice  of  a 
lemon,  cayenne  pepper,  a  little  dust  of 
sugar,  a  glass  of  port  wine,  pour  it  all 
hot,  the  last  minute,  over  your  ducks  5 
the  remainder  left  of  those  birds  the  next 
day  makes  excellent  salmi  or  hash,  tak- 
ing care  of  all  the  gravy  that  may  re- 
main. 

They  must  be  roasted  at  a  very  brisk 
fire ;  they  take  from  twelve  to  twenty  min- 
utes, according  to  taste.  Some  people  are  of 
opinion  that  they  should  only  fly  through 
the  kitchen :  by  epicures  they  are  con- 
sidered to  be  in  perfection  when  they 
come  up  dry  and  brown,  and,  when  cut, 
flood  the  dish  with  gravy.  The  means 
of  insuring  success  consists  in  a  very  ar- 
dent fire,  rapid  motion  of  the  spit,  and 
constant  basting.  The  carver  should 
score  the  breast  of  the  duck,  put  a  piece 
of  butter  on  it,  and  cut  a  lemon  in  half, 
putting  on  one  half  a  spoonful  of  salt, 
and  on  the  other  a  cayenne  -spoonful  of 
cayenne;  put  the  two  together,  and 
squeeze  vigorously  over  the  duck. 

To  stew. — Shred  thyme,  winter  savory, 
and  sage,  very  small,  put  them  into  some 
strong  broth,  with  a  little  pepper,  salt, 
and  two  spoonfuls  of  wine :  stew  them  to- 
gether for  one  quarter  of  an  hour  j  nearly 
roast  the  ducks,  add  the  gravy  that  falls 
from  them,  but  not  the  fat ;  then  place  a 
deep  dish  under  them,  and  pour  this  sauce 
through,  and  over  them  into  it.  Remove 
he  ducks,  cut  them  up,  and  put  them 
with  the  sauce  into  a  stewpan  over  a 
stove,  and  let  them  stew  tUl  they  are 
done  enough. 

Canvas  Back  Duck  should  be  cooked 
ike  wild  duck,  but  nearer  Qie  fire,  the 
"at  being  so  delicate,  that  it  requires  to 
t>e  cooked  quickly ;  good  plain  gravy  is 


GAME. 


371 


all  that  is  required  to  make  them  per- 
fect. 

1019.— PLOVEES. 

Roast  the  golden  plover  in  the  same 
way  as  woodcocks  and  quails,  without 
drawing ;  and  serve  on  a  toast. 

Grey  Plovers. — Draw  them :  they  may 
be  either  roasted  or  stewed  with  gravy, 
herbs,  and  spice. 

Plovers  Eggs. — Boil  them  ten  minutes^ 
and  serve  either  hot  or  cold ;  the  former 
on  a  napkin,  the  latter  on  moss.  Send 
to  table  with  the  second  course. 

1020.— PAETEIDGES, 

being  less  dry  than  pheasants,  do  not  re- 
quire stuffing,  although  they  are  improv- 
ed by  it,  made  either  of  chesnuts  or 
truffles  and  bacon.  They  are  sometimes 
roasted,  wrapped  in  bacon  and  vine- 
leaves  :  bread-crumbs  are  essential.  In 
some  places  partridges  are  sent  up  with 
forcemeat-balls  in  the  dish. 

1021.— TO  STEW  PAETEIDGE8. 

Truss  them  with  the  wings  over  the 
back,  and  the  legs  drawn  in ;  cut  a  piece 
of  pork  or  bacon  in  long  strips,  and  put 
them  into  a  stewpan  with  a  piece  of 
butter  the  size  of  a  walnut.  Fry  the 
bacon  brown,  and  when  quite  done  put 
in  the  partridges,  and  keep  turning  them 
until  they  are  very  brown,  taking  care 
that  the  bacon  shall  be  as  much  on  the 
breast  as  possible ;  then  add  about  a  tea- 
cupful  of  gravy,  and  some  trimmings  of 
meat  and  vegetables.  Have  ready  a 
large  cabbage  boiled  ;  when  well  drained, 
slice  it  with  butter,  pepper,  and  salt,  put 
it  while  warm  with  the  gravy  to  the  par- 
tridges, and  let  them  stew  gently  for  an 
hour,  turning  the  birds  frequently.  Serve 
up  with  the  bacon  underneath,  and  the 
cabbage  round  them,  squeezed  dry,  and 
the  sauce  well  skimmed. 


1022.— SALMI  OF  PAETEIDGE. 

Half  roast  the  partridges,  cut  them  up 
neatly,  take  off  the  skin  ;  put  the  trim- 
mings in  a  stewpan,  with  a  bit  of  butter 
and  a  tablespoonful  of  flour;  stir  the 
whole  over  the  fire  ;  then  add  a  glass  of 
white  wine  and  a  little  gravy  or  stock, 
some  shalots;  chopped  parsley,  thyme, 
bay-leaf,  pepper,  salt ;  let  it  boil  fast  for 
half  an  hour ;  strain,  skim,  add  the  juice  of 
a  lemon,  and  make  the  joints  of  the  par- 
tridge hot  in  the  sauce. 

Or : — Roast  the  partridges,  leaving 
them  underdone.  When  cold,  cut  them 
into  pieces,  taking  off  the  skin.  Put  three 
spoonfuls  of  oil  in  to  a  saucepan,  a  glass  of 
claret,  salt,  pepper,  a  shalot,  and  the  juice 
of  a  lemon.  Toss  the  partridges  in  this 
sauce  until  they  are  sufficiently  done  to 
send  to  table. 

Or : — Cut  up  and  place  on  a  dish  the 
breasts,  wings,  and  legs  of  any  roasted 
game  you  may  have  left;  cover  it  with 
another  dish,  or  tin  cover,  and  set  it  over 
a  pan  of  boiling  water  to  keep  warm. 
Then  pound  the  small  bones  of  the  car- 
case, with  the  inside,  in  a  mortar,  and 
put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  a  little 
gravy  thickened  with  some  flour  rolled 
in  butter,  a  wine-glass  of  port  wine,  a 
spoonful  of  ketchup,  a  very  small  piece 
of  shalot  chopped  fine,  cayenne  pepper, 
and  salt.  When  it  has  been  boiled  for 
half  an  hour,  strain  it  through  a  sieve,  to 
form  it  into  a  perfect  puree,  and  pour  it 
over  the  game  in  your  dish ;  garnish  with 
forcemeat-balls,  and  slices  of  lemon  cut 
thin. 

1028.— BEOILED  PAETEIDGE. 

•  Cut  the  bird  down  the  back ;  break 
the  merrythought,  which  will  allow  it  to 
be  made  quite  fat ;  cut  off  the  feet  at  the 
joint,  and  skewer  it  as  a  fowl  to  broil ; 
dry,  flour,  egg,  and  sprinkle  it  with 
chopped  herbs  and  bread-crumbs,  well 
seasoned;  broil  and  serve  with  a  little 


372 


THE"  PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


good  gravy,  with  a  mushroom  or  two 
chopped  up  small. 

1024— GEOUSE. 

Mix  a  small  lump  of  butter  with  a 
few  bread-crumbs,  and  put  it  in  the  in- 
side of  the  birds — not  in  the  crop — it 
keeps  them  moist.  They  require  to  be 
nicely  roasted  and  well  basted. 


1025.— BABBITS. 

To  Fricassee  a  rabbit  cut  it  in  pieces, 
reserve  the  liver ;  put  a  piece  of  bacon 
cut  in  slices  into  a  stewpan,  brown  it 
well  and  lay  it  aside ;  put  the  rabbit  in 
the  pan  with  a  piece  of  butter ;  turn  and 
toss  the  rabbit  well  until  it  is  quite 
white.  When  it  is  getting  brown  dredge 
a  spoonful  of  flour  over  it,  turning  all  the 
while,  and  when  the  flour  is  dry,  put  the 
rabbit  in  a  plate.  Then  add  another 
piece  of  butter  to  the  remainirg  sauce, 
and  stir  it  well  together,  and  when 
brown,  add  a  cupful  of  water  ;  continue 
stirring,  and  put  in  the  rabbit  with 
plenty  of  very  small  onions,  the  bacon, 
some  mushrooms,  a  bunch  of  parsley, 
and  some  salt  and  pepper ;  let  it  stew 
very  gently  over  a  slow  fire  for  four 
hours.  Add  the  liver  and  a  glass  of  port 
wine  one  hour  before  serving,  and  should 
there  not  be  sufficient  sauce,  a  little 
gravy  from  time  to  time,  put  in  hot. 

When  a  rabbit  is  roasted,  it  should 
first  be  well  stuffed.  Serve  it  with  sauce 
made  of  liver,  parsley,  and  melted 
butter.  Truss  it  like  a  hare. 

Rabbits  may  be  stewed,  or  fried,  or 
baked  in  a  pie. 

Rabbits,  being  rather  dry  meat,  are 
much  improved  by  larding.  Should  the 
process  be  deemed  too  troublesome  upon 
common  occasions,  a  good  effect  may  be 
produced  by  lining  the  inside  of  the  rab- 
bit with  slices  of  fat  bacon  previously 
putting  in  the  stuffing.  This  is  a  very 
easy  method  of  improvement,  and  ought 
never  to  be  neglected. 


A  boned  rabbit,  larded,  stuffed,  and 
braised,  affords  a  cheap  and  elegant  side- 
dish  for  a  dinner-party. 


1026.— TO    MAKE    EABBIT    TASTE      MUCH 
LIKE  HAEE. 

Choose  one  that  is  young,  butfullgrown, 
hang  it  in  the  skm  three  or  four  days, 
then  skin  it,  and  lay  it  without  washing 
in  a  seasoning  of  black  pepper  and  all- 
spice in  a  very  fine  powder,  a  glass  of 
port  wine,  and  the  same  quantity  of 
vinegar.  Baste  it  occasionally  for  forty 
hours ;  then  stuff  it  and  roast  it  as  a 
hare,  and  with  the  same  sauce.  Do  not 
wash  off  the  liquor  that  it  was  soaked 
in. 

1       1027.— TO  EOAST  HAEE. 

After  it  is  skinned,  let  it  be  extremely 
well  wiped ;  and,  if  old,  lard  it,  which 
will  make  it  tender,  as  will  also  letting 
it  lie  in  vinegar.  If,  however,  it  is  put  into 
vinegar,  it  should  be  exceedingly  well 
washed  in  water  afterwards.  Put  a  large 
well-seasoned  stuffing  into  the  belly,  and 
then  sew  it  up.  Baste  it  well  with  milk 
till  half  done,  and  afterwards  with  butter. 
The  hare  should  be  kept  at  a  distance 
from  the  fire  at  first.  Serve  with  a  fine 
froth,  rich  gravy,  and  currant  jelly  sauce  j 
little  gravy  in  the  dish.  For  stuffing 
use  the  liver  pounded,  an  anchovy,  some 
fat  bacon,  a  little  suet,  herbs,  pepper, 
salt,  nutmeg,  crumbs  of  bread,  and  an  egg 
to  bind  it  all.  The  ears  must  be  nicely 
cleaned,  singed,  and  made  crisp,  being 
reckoned  a  dainty. 

1028.-JUGGED    HAEE. 

Skin  the  hare,  and  cut  it  in  pieces, 
but  do  not  wash  it ;  strew  it  over  with 
pepper  and  salt,  fry  it  brown.  Make  a 
toj  seasoning  of  two  anchovies,  a  sprig  of 
thyme,  a  little  parsley,  a  nutmeg  grated, 
a  little  mace,  a  few  cloves  pounded,  and 
a  teaspoonful  of  grated  lemon-peel. 


RABBITS,    &C. 


373 


Strew  this  over  the  hare,  after  having 
carefully  taken  it  out  of  the  pan  clear  of 
fat,  slice  half  Ib.  of  bacon  very  thin,  put  it 
into  a  jug  or  jar,  a  layer  of  hare  and  one 
of  bacon  upon  it,  until  the  whole  is  put 
in,  then  add  rather  less  than  half  a  pint  of 
ale ;  cover  the  jug  very  closely,  so  as  per- 
fectly to  keep  in  the  steam  ;  put  it  into 
a  kettle  of  cold  water,  lay  a  tile  on  the 
top  of  the  jug,  and  let  it  boil  three  hours  if 
the  hare  be  young,  or  four  or  five  if  an  old 
one.  Take  the  jug  out  of  the  kettle,  pick 
out  all  the  bacon  which  has  not  melted, 
and  shake  the  hare  up  in  a  stewpan,  with 
a  little  mushroom  ketchup,  a  glass  of 
port  wine,  a  little  mushroom  powder  if 
at  hand,  and  a  little  butter  and  flour, 
well  mixed  together  to  thicken  the 
gravy.  A  teaspoonful  of  lemon-pickle, 
and  one  of  browning,  will  heighten  the 
flavor. 

1029.— P^LAU  OF  BABBIT. 
Cut  up  a  rabbit  or  fowl;  pound  a 
couple  of  onions  in  a  mortar ;  extract  the 
juice,  and  mix  it  with  a  saltspoonful  of 
ground  ginger,  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and 
the  juice  of  a  lemon:  rub  this  into  the 
meat ;  cut  up  two  onions  in  slices,  and  fry 
them  in  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter. 
When  brown  take  them  out  and  put  in  the 
meat ;  let  them  stew  together.  Have  one 
pound  of  rice  half  boiled  hi  broth  ;  put  the 
whole  meat,  &c.,  into  a  jar.  with  half  a 
pint  of  milk,  some  whole  peppercorns,  half 
a  dozen  cloves,  and  a  little  more  salt.  Se- 
cure the  mouth  of  the  jar,  and  bake  it  un- 
til done  enough,  adding  a  little  broth, 
should  the  butter  and  milk  not  be  suffi- 
cient to  moisten  it. 

1030.— TO  CEISP  PAESLET. 

Pick  some  bunches  of  young  parsley, 
wash  them,  and  swing  them  in  a  cloth  to 
dry ;  put  them  on  a  sheet  of  paper  in  a 
toaster  before  the  fire,  and  keep  them 
frequently  turned,  till  they  are  quite 
crisp,  which  will  be  in  about  six  or  eight 
minutes. 

24 


1031.— TO  FEY  PAESLET. 

When  the  parsley  has  been  washed  and 
thoroughly  dried,  throw  it  into  lard  or 
butter  which  is  on  the  point  of  boiling ; 
take  it  up  with  a  slice  the  instant  it  is 
crisp,  and  lay  it  on  a  paper  on  a  sieve 
before  the  fire.  A  wire  basket  is  the 
nicest  thing  to  use  for  frying  parsley,  or 
any  thing  requiring  to  be  fried. 

1032. FEIED    BEEAD  FOE  GAENISHING. 

Take  slices  of  stale  bread  about  a  third 
of  an  inch  thick,  cut  them  into  shapes 
with  a  paste-cutter,  fry  them  in  fresh 
butter  a  light  brown,  lay  them  upon  a 
cloth  to  dry,  and  place  them  round  the 
dish.  They  may  be  made  to  adhere  by 
brushing  the  under  part  with  a  little  flour 
mixed  with  white  of  egg. 

Bread  crumbs. — All  game  and  small 
birds  are  improved  by  the  addition  of 
bread  crumbs,  either  fried  or  toasted ; 
the  latter  is  the  more  delicate  prepara- 
tion :  grate  the  crumbs,  and  put  them 
into  a  tin  shallow  dish  before  the  fire, 
shaking  them  occasionally,  until  they  are 
well  browned :  send  them  up  in  the  dish ; 
with  a  tureen  of  good  brown  gravy  made 
from  the  insides  and  trimmings  of  the 
birds,  but  without  any  kind  of  season- 
ing. 

1038.— RABBITS,  TO  SKIN,  &c. 

Cut  round  the  skin  at  the  first  joint 
of  the  hind  legs,  and  pull  the  skin  up  a 
little,  then  run  the  knife  between  the 
sinew  and  the  bone  of  the  leg,  so  as  to 
make  a  hole  to  hang-  it  on  a  nail  in  a 
wall,  with  the  head  downwards  ;  run  a 
knife  along  the  skin  inside  the  thigh  as 
far  as  the  tail,  so  as  to  cut  it,  then  run 
the  hand  under  the  skin,  and  it  will 
easily  separate  from  the  body ;  pull  it 
down  towards  the  head,  taking  care  not 
to  tear  the  belly :  when  you  have  arriv- 
ed as  far  as  the  head,  pull  up  the  fore 
legs,  cutting  the  feet  off  at  the  first  joint ; 
then  pull  up  the  ears  by  running  a 


374 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


skewer  between  the  skin  and  the  head, 
and  pull  the  skin  off,  cutting  the  nose 
and  lips  ;  remove  it  from  the  nail,  cut  off 
the  hind  feet  at  the  first  joint ;  cut  open 
the  body,  remove  the  inside,  reserve  the 
liver,  heart,  and  kidneys,  and  throw  away 
the  remainder ;  wash  out  the  inside.  If 
for  roasting,  make  the  following  stuffing  : 
take  the  liver,  heart,  and  kidneys,  blanch 
them,  put  them  into  a  fryingpan  with  a 
little  fat,  and  one  small  onion  chopped 
up ;  saute  a  little,  then  remove  and  chop 
them  up  with  two  ounces  of  pork  fat  or 
bacon,  a  little  parsley,  and  mix  with 
bread  crumbs  and  the  yolk  of  an  egg ; 
stuff  and  sew  up  the  belly.  Truss  as 
follows:  bring  the  hind  and  fore  legs 
close  to  the  body  towards  the  head,  run 
a  skewer  through  each,  then  run  a  skew- 
er in  at  the  mouth  and  through  the  neck, 
to  keep  it  upright ;  it  should  be  exactly 
as  if  it  was  sitting*  Put  a  string  round 
the  body  from  skewer  to  skewer,  and  it 
is  ready. 


1034.— THE  HAUNCH. 

"  The  observed  of  all  observers  "  when 
epicureans  sit  at  table ;  it  is  a  joint,  if 
properly  kept,  properly  cooked  and 
served  hot,  which  must  prove  delicious^ 
The  delicacy  of  its  flavor  is  obtained  by 
hanging  only:  if  it  be  cooked  while 
fresh,  it  will  not  equal  in  any  respect  a 
haunch  of  mutton. 

The  haunch  of  venison,  when  about  to 
be  roasted,  should  be  washed  in  warm 
milk  and  water,  and  dried  with  a  clean 
cloth ;  if  it  has  hung  very  long  and  the 
skin  smells  musty,  it  will  be  the  safest 
plan  to  remove  the  skin  and  wrap  the 
whole  of  the  haunch  in  paper  well  greas- 
ed with  fresh  butter  ;  during  the  time  it 
is  at  the  fire,  do  not  be  afraid  of  basting 
it  too  much.  If  it  be  a  buck  haunch  and 


large,  it  will  take  nearly  four  hours 
within  five  or  ten  minutes  ;  if  compara- 
tively small,  three  hours  and  a  half  will 
suffice  ;  if  a  doe  haunch,  three  hours  and 
a  quarter  will  be  enough. 

All  venison  for  roasting  should  have  a 
paste  made  of  lard  over  it ;  after  first 
having  papered  the  meat  with  buttered 
paper,  then  your  stiff  paste  upon  the  top 
of  that,  either  dangle  it  or  put  it  in  a 
cradle  spit;  a  few  minutes  before  you 
require  to  take  it  up  take  off  the  paste 
and  paper,  baste  it  with  some  butter, 
salt  it  and  flour  it,  when  done  give  it  a 
few  more  turns  round,-  send  it  up  very 
hot ;  your  dish  and  gravy  is  to  be  very 
hot  also ;  any  dry  pieces  and  the  shank 
you  will  boil  down  with  a  little  brown 
stock  for  the  gravy ;  send  currant  jelly 
in  a  boat,  and  French  beans  in  a  vege- 
table dish. 

1035.— VENISON  STEAKS. 
Cut  them  from  the  neck  ;  season  them 
with  pepper  and  salt.  When  the  gridi- 
ron has  been  well  heated  over  a  bed  of 
bright  coals,  grease  the  bars,  and  lay  the 
steaks  upon  it.  Broil  them  well,  turn- 
ing them  once,  and  taking  care  to  save  as 
much  of  the  gravy  as  possible.  Serve 
them  up  with  some  currant  jelly  laid  on 
each  steak. 

1036.-TO  HASH  VENISON. 

Carve  your  venison  into  slices:  let 
them  be  thin,  and  put  them  in  a  stewpan 
with  two  small  glasses  of  port  wine: 
add  a  spoonful  of  browning,  one  of  ketch- 
up, an  onion  stuck  with  cloves,  and  half 
an  anchovy  chopped  small,  let  it  boil, 
then  put  in  your  venison,  make  it  thor- 
oughly hot  through.  Lay  sippets  of 
toast,  in  various  shapes  in  a  soup  dish, 
pour  the  hash  upon  it,  and  serve  with 
currant  jelly. 

1037.— VENISON  FKIED. 

Cut  the  meat  into  slices}  fry  a  light 
brown,  and  keep  hot  before  the  fire. 


GAME. 


375 


Make  gravy  of  the  bones  and  any  trim- 
mings, add  a  little  floured  butter,  and 
stir  until  it  is  thick  and  brown,  then  add 
lemon-juice  and  port  wine  to  taste,  with 
pepper  or  cayenne.  Warm  the  venison 
in  the  gravy,  place  in  a  dish,  and  strain 
the  gravy  over  it.  Serve  with  currant 
jelly  in  a  glass. 

1038.— A  SHOULDEE  OF  VENISON  STEWED. 

If  you  should  have  a  very  lean  shoul- 
der, stew  it  in  preference  to  roasting ; 
bone  it,  cover  it  with  slices  of  mutton 
fat,  which  sometimes  are  first  steeped  in 
port  to  give  a  richer  flavor,  roll  it  up  and 
bind  it  tightly.  Lay  it  in  a  stewpan 
with  a  quantity  of  beef  gravy,  and  the 
bones  you  have  taken  from  the  venison, 
add  two  glasses  of  port,  a  dessert-spoon- 
ful of  whole  pepper,  and  the  same  quan- 
tity of  allspice.  Cover  down  closely, 
and  simmer  until  the  venison  is  tender, 
take  it  out  and  remove  the  fat,  thicken 
the  gravy  with  flour  and  butter,  and 
strain  it  over  the  meat. 

1039.-EOAST  SHOULDEK  OP  VENISON. 

Take  the  bones  out  of  a  shoulder  of 
venison.  Fill  the  cavity  with  the  fat  of 
a  loin  of  mutton.  Roast  before  a  quick 
fire,  basting  it  constantly  with  the  drip- 
pings and  a  little  port  wine.  It  should 
be  served  underdone  with  a  sauce  of 
port  wine,  currant  jelly  and  red  pepper. 

The  neck  and  shoulder,  as  together 
they  may  be  termed  the  haunch  joint, 
may  be  dressed  exactly  like  the  haunch, 
covered  with  a  thin  paste,  and  greased 
paper  over  that. 


GAME  ought  not  to  be  thrown  away  even 
when  it  has  been  kept  a  very  long  time ; 
for  when  it  seems  to  be  spoiled,  it  may 
often  be  made  fit  for  eating  by  nicely 
cleaning  it,  and  washing  with  vinegar 


and  water.  If  there  is  danger  of  birds 
not  keeping,  draw,  crop,  and  pick  them  ; 
then  wash  in  two  or  three  waters,  and 
rub  them  with  salt.  Have  ready  a  large 
saucepan  of  boiling  water,  and  plunge 
them  into  it  one  by  one,  drawing  them 
up  and  down  by  the  legs,  that  the  water 
may  pass  through  them.  Let  them  stay 
five  or  six  minutes  in ;  then  hang  them 
up  in  a  cold  place.  When  drained,  pep- 
per and  salt  the  inside  well.  By  this 
method  the  most  delicate  birds  may  be 
preserved.  Before  roasting,  wash  them 
well.  But,  as  a  rule,  no  game  should  be 
washed,  for  one-half  the  game  that  is 
sent  to  table  is  spoiled  by  being  satu- 
rated with  water. 

In  dressing  Game  be  careful  to  keep  a 
clear  fire.  Let  it  be  done  of  a  bright 
brown,  but  not  much  roasted,  or  the  fine 
flavor  will  be  destroyed.  It  requires  to 
be  continually  basted,  and  to  be  sent  up 
beautifully  frothed.  Wild-fowl  take  a 
much  shorter  time  than  domestic  poul- 
try. 

1040.— TO  DEESS  A  FAWN  OE  KID. 

They  should  be  dressed  as  quickly  af- 
ter being  killed  as  it  is  convenient.  If 
they  are  full  grown  they  should  be  roast- 
ed in  quarters,  but  if  very  young  may 
be  dressed,  trussed,  and  stuffed  exactly 
as  a  hare  ;  the  quarters  will  be  improved 
in  flavor  when  the  fawn  is  full  grown,  if 
they  are  covered  with  fat  bacon,  and 
basted  as  venison;  serve  venison  sauce 
with  it. 


1041.— PHEASANTS.    (English  receipt.) 

Pheasants  are  rarely  stuffed,  it  is  more 
customary  to  send  them  to  table  accom- 
panied by  forcemeat  in  the  dish,  in  many 
cases  with  the  simple  gravy  only;  the 
real  epicurean  in  game  prefers  the  flavor 
of  the  bird  uncontaminated  by  any  ac- 
cessories save  those  which  just  assist  to 


376 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


remove  the  dryness  common  to  most 
game.  Pheasants  are  sometimes  larded, 
but  as  the  flavor  is  entirely  disguised  by 
the  taste  of  the  bacon,  incorporated 
with  the  flesh  of  the  fowl,  unless  it  is 
done  more  for  appearance  than  palate, 
we  would  not  advise  it. 

In  dressing  the  pheasant  it  should  be 
drawn  and  cleaned  as  other  game  and 
trussed,  should  be  roasted  before  a  clear, 
not  a  fierce  fire,  and  will  take  forty  min- 
utes j  it  must  not  be  done  too' much,  but 
must  not  on  any  account  be  sent  to  table 
underdone. 


1041.— WOODCOCK,  SNIPE,  ETC. 

To  roast  these  birds,  put  them  on  a 
little  spit,  take  a  slice  of  wheaten  bread, 
and  toast  it  brown,  then  lay  it  on  a  dish 
under  the  birds ;  baste  them  with  a  little 
butter,  and  let  the  trail  drop  on  the 
toast.  When  they  are  roasted,  put  the 
toast  in  the  dish,  lay  the  woodcocks  on 
it,  and  have  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of 
gravy ;  pour  it  in  a  dish,  and  set  it  over 
a  lamp  or  chafing-dish  for  three  minutes ; 
and  send  them  to  table.  Epicures  say 
you  should  never  take  any  thing  out  of 
a  woodcock  or  snipe.  The  head  of  the 
woodcock  is  considered  a  great  delicacy. 

To  roast  pheasants,  partridges,  quails, 
and  other  small  birds,  pick  and  draw 
them  immediately  after  they  are  brought 
in.  If  they  are  of  a  nature  to  be  im- 
proved by  it,  lard  them  with  small  slips 
of  the  fat  of  bacon  drawn  through  the 
flesh  with  a  larding-needle. 

To  roast  reed-Urds  or  ortolans,  put  into 
every  bird  an  oyster,  or  a  little  butter 
mixed  with  some  finely  sifted  bread- 
crumbs. Dredge  them  with  flour.  Run 
a  small  skewer  through  them,  and  tie 
them  on  the  spit.  Baste  them  with  lard 
or  with  fresh  butter.  They  will  be  done 
in  about  ten  minutes.  Reed-birds  are 
very  fine  made  into  little  dumplings  with 
a  thin  crust  of  flour  and  butter,  and  boil- 


ed about  twenty  minutes.     Each  must 
be  tied  in  a  separate  cloth. 


VEGETABLES. 

The  fresher  all  green  vegetables  are 
used  after  being  taken  from  the  ground 
the  better ;  and  therefore  nothing  can 
be  comparable  to  cutting  them  from  your 
own  garden ;  but,  when  purchased  in  the 
market,  care  should  be  taken  that  those 
of  the  cabbage  tribe  should  appear  crisp 
and  vividly  green :  not  too  small,  nor  yet 
overgrown  in  size. 

When  about  to  be  used,  the  outer 
leaves  should  be  stripped,  the  stalks  cut 
short,  and  the  vegetable  immersed  for  an 
hour  or  two  in  cold  water,  into  which 
should  be  put  a  handful  of  salt  for  the 
purpose  of  thoroughly  cleansing  it  from 
slugs,  and  those  insects  with  which  the 
leaves  are  commonly  infested.  All  green 
vegetables  should  be  put  into  boiling 
water.  Never  boil  any  species  of  greens 
with  meat.  Boil  them  in  plenty  of  pure 
water,  with  salt,  to  which  a  little  vinegar 
may  be  added  with  advantage;  do  not 
cover  the  saucepan,  but  keep  up  a  steady 
fire,  so  that  they  shall  not  be  allowed  to 
stop  boiling  until  thoroughly  done  :  drain 
them  instantly,  for  if  overboiled  they 
lose  their  flavor  and  become  insipid ; 
they  should  be  well  done,  for  if  that  be 
neglected  for  the  purpose  of  preserving 
their  crispness,  they  will  be  rendered  in- 
digestible. 

Hard  water  spoils  the  color  of  such 
vegetables  as  should  be  green,  but  a  very 
small  bit  of  soda  or  carbonate  of  am 
monia  will  soften  it,  and  even  improve 
their  brightness.  The  practice  of  putting 
pear  lash  in  the  pot  to  improve  their 
color,  should  be  strictly  forbidden,  as  it 
mparts  an  unpleasant  flavor  ;  as  will  also 
soda  if  not  cautiously  used. 


POTATOES. 


377 


1042.—  POTATOES 

Require  no  attention  for  the  preserva- 
tion of  their  color,  but  their  flavor  will 
be  spoiled  if  their  dressing  be  not  attend- 
ed to,  which,  although  of  the  most 
simple  nature,  is  frequently  ill  performed. 
The  best  mode  of  doing  it  is  to  sort 
the  potatoes,  and  choose  them  of  an 
equal  size  ;  wash  them  with  a  scrubbing- 
brush,  and  put  them  into  cold  water  suf- 
ficient to  cover  them,  and  no  more. 
About  ten  minutes  after  .the  water  has 
come  to  a  boil,  take  out  the  half  of  it, 
and  replace  with  cold  water,  to  check  it  ; 
the  reason  assigned  for  which  is,  "  that 
the  cold  water  sends  the  heat  from  the 
surface  to  the  heart,  and  makes  the  po- 
tatoes mealy."  Then  throw  in  a  large 
handful  of  salt,  leave  the  pot  uncovered, 
and  let  it  remain  upon  the  fire  to  simmer 
until  the  potatoes  are  done  ;  this  is  the 
moment  to  be  watched,  for  if  overboiled, 
they  will  become  waxy.  The  cook 
.should,  therefore,  occasionally  try  them, 
by  piercing  them  to  the  heart  with  a 
fork,  and,  when  they  are  tender,  the  pot 
should  be  instantly  taken  off  the  fire, 
and  the  potatoes  passed  through  a  colan- 
der to  drain  ;  which  being  done,  and  the 
water  thrown  out,  they  should  then  be 
replaced  upon  a  folded  flannel,  in  the 
same  pot,  which  should  be  left  by  the 
side  of  the  fire  to  keep  hot  and  to  cause 
the  evaporation  of  the  steam.  "When 
served,  they  should  be  wrapped  in  a 
warmed  cotton  napkin.  If  of  moderate 
size  they  will  take  about  half  an  hour 
boiling,  to  which  fifteen  minutes  must  be 
added  for  evaporation,  ere  they  can  be 
sent  to  table. 


Potato  Steamer  and  Saucepan. 


An  iron  pot  is  the  best  vessel  for  boil- 
ing potatoes  in,  since,  after  the  water  has 
been  poured  off,  it  retains  sufficient  heat 
to  dry  them  thoroughly* 

A  good  and  economical  mode  of 
dressing  potatoes,  when  soup,  meat,  or 
other  eatables  are  to  be  boiled,  is  to  have 
a  tin  strainer  fitted  to  the  mouth  of  the 
saucepan,  so  as  to  allow  the  steam  to  as- 
cend from  the  boiler. 

Notwithstanding  the  directions  here 
given  for  cooking  potatoes^  there  is  a 
point,  on  which  there  exists  a  difference  of 
opinion,  that  is  respecting  the  peeling 
of  the  roots,  whether  before  or  after  their 
being  boiled  ? 

In  Lancashire,  England,  where  they  aro 
largely  grown  and  admirably  boiled,  they 
are  first  peeled ;  while  in  Ireland  they 
are  invariably  brought  to  table  "with 
their  jackets  on."  Count  Eumford  also 
recommends  their  being  boiled  in  their 
skins;  the  cuisinier  Bourgeois  likewise 
thinks  that  "  les  pommes  des  terre  sont 
meuilleures  en  robe  de  chambre" 

1048.— TO  KEEP  POTATOES. 

Buy  them  as  dug  from  the  ground, 
without  taking  off  the  earth  which  ad- 
heres to  them,  and  never  wash  them  un- 
til wanted  to  be  dressed.  Place  them  in 
a  dry  cellar,  upon  straw,  and  cover  them 
in  winter  with  straw  or  mats,  to  guard 
them  from  the  frost. 

1044— NEW  POTATOES 

Should  be  dressed  as  soon  as  possible 
after  being  taken  from  the  ground,  and 
are  always  best  when  grown  in  frames. 
When  washed,  they  should  be  rubbed 
with  a  coarse  cloth,  and  a  little  salt  to 
take  off  the  thin  outer  skin,  but  they 
should  not  be  peeled.  Put  them  into 
boiling  water  j  they  will  require  but  a  few 
minutes  to  do  them  j  send  them  to  table 
in  a  hot  napkin,  unless  covered  with  white 
sauce,  which  should  be  seasoned  with  a 


378 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


little  salt  and  a  slight  grating  of  nutmeg. 
"When  quite  young  they  should  never  be 
sliced  nor  fried. 

.1046.— POTATO  FLOUB. 

Rasp  the  potatoes  into  a  tub  of  cold 
water,  and  change  it  repeatedly  until  the 
raspings  fall  to  the  bottom  like  a  paste ; 
then  dry  it  in  the  air,  pound  it  in  a  mor- 
tar, and  pass  it  through  a  hair  sieve.  It 
is  nearly  as  nutritive,  and  much  lighter 
than  wheaten  flour;  it  is,  therefore, 
preferable  for  making  puddings  and 
pastry  for  infants  and  invalids ;  a  portion 
of  it  also  improves  the  appearance  of 
household  bread,  and  dealers  constantly 
pass  it  off  as  arrowroot.  If  kept  dry,  it 
will  remain  good  for  years. 

Jelly  is  made  from  the  flour;  only 
boiling  water  must  be  poured  upon  it, 
but  care  must  be  taken  that  it  be  ab- 
solutely boiling  or  the  complete  change 
into  jelly  will  not  take  place.  It  does 
not  take  many  minutes  to  thus  change  a 
raw  potato  into  this  substance,  which  is 
not  only  highly  nutritive,  but  extremely 
agreeable  to  the  palate,  when  flavored 
with  a  little  sugar,  nutmeg,  and  white 


1046.— POTATO-WALL 
Or  edging,  to  serve  round  fricassees, 
forms  also  a  pretty  addition  to  a  corner 
dish. — Mash  in  a  mortar  as  many  boiled 
potatoes  as  you  may  want,  with  a  good 
piece  of  butter ;  then,  with  the  bowls  of 
two  silver  spoons,  raise  a  wall  of  it  two 
and  a  half  inches  high  within  the  rim 
of  the  dish  to  be  used.  Let  the  upper 
part  be  a  little  thinner  than  the  lower ; 
smooth  it ;  and,  after  brushing  it  all  over 
with  egg,  put  it  into  the  oven  to  become 
hot  and  a  little  colored.  Before  egging 
it,  the  outside  may  be  ornamented  with 
bits  of  paste  cut  into  shapes. 

104T.— TO  MASH  POTATOES. 

Let  them  be  thoroughly  boiled ;  peel 


them,  and  take  out  all  the  specks,  and 
little  hard  lumps  which  are  sometimes 
found.  Beat  them  till  quite  fine  in  a 
wooden  bowl  or  mortar,  or  break  them 
thoroughly  with  a  three -pronged  fork ; 
sprinkle  a  little  salt,  and  mix  them  up 
smoothly  with  butter  or  boiling  milk. 
Take  care  that  the  potatoes  shall  not  be 
too  wet,  or  they  will  become  heavy  and 
watery ;  great  smoothness,  lightness,  and 
a  rich  taste  are  required  hi  mashed  pota- 
toes :  if  required  to  be  very  fine,  rub 
them  through  a  colander  or  sieve  before 
adding  the  boiling  milk  and  butter. 


(Potato  Masher.) 
1048.— POTATO-LOAYES 

Are  very  nice  when  eaten  with  roast 
beef  or  mutton,  and  are  made  of  any  por- 
tion of  the  mashed  roots,  prepared  with- 
out milk,  by  mixing  with  them  a  good 
quantity  of  very  finely  minced  raw 
shalot,  powdered  with  pepper  and  salt ; 
then  beating  up  the  whole  with  a  little 
butter  to  bind  it,  and  dividing  it  into 
small  loaves  of  a  conical  form,  and  pla- 
cing them  under  the  meat  to  brown,  that 
is,  when  it  is  so  nearly  done  as  to  impart 
some  of  the  gravy  along  with  the  fat. 

1049.— TO  BEOWN  POTATOES. 

While  the  meat  is  roasting,  and  an  hour 
before  it  is  served,  boil  the  potatoes  and 
take  off  the  skins ;  flour  them  well,  and 
put  them  under  the  meat,  taking  care  to 
dry  them  from  the  dripping,  before  they 
are  sent  to  table.  The  kidney  potatoes 
are  best  dressed  in  this  way.  The  flour- 
ing is  very  essential. 

Potatoes^  when  boiled,  if  either  waxy, 
or  to  be  eaten  with  cold  meat  should  be 
peeled  and  put  whole  upon  the  gridiron 
until  nicely  browned. 


POTATOES. 


379 


Potatoes  should  always  be  lolled  a 
little  before  being  put  into  stews,  &c.,  as 
the  first  water  in  which  they  are  cooked 
is  of  a  poisonous  quality. 

Fried  Potatoes  may  be  cut  from  raw 
potatoes,  pared  round  and  round  like  an 
apple ;  cut  them  in  slices  one  half  inch 
thick ;  fry  quickly,  in  plenty  of  hot  fat, 
and  with  as  little  color  as  possible ;  dry 
them  well  from  the  grease,  and  sprinkle 
with  salt.  When  nicely  done  and  piled 
up  properly,  fried  potatoes  make  a 
beautiful  side  dish,  which  ia  always  eaten 
with  great  relish. 

1050.-POTATO  EISSOLE8. 

Boil  the  potatoes  floury ;  mash  them, 
seasoning  with  salt  and  a  little  cayenne  j 
mince  parsley  very  finely  and  work  up 
with  the  potatoes,  adding  eschalot  also 
chopped  small ;  bind  with  yolk  of  egg  j 
roll  into  balls  and  fry  with  fresh  butter 
over  a  clear  fire.  Meat  shred  finely,  ba- 
con or  ham  may  be  added. 

1051.-POTATO  SOUFFLE. 

Take  any  number  of  large  potatoes, 
the  less  eyes  and  the  firmer  the  skin  the 
better.  Clean  them  thoroughly  and 
then  bake  them ;  after  which  cut  out  a 
round  piece,  not  quite  so  large  as  a  half- 
crown,  out  of  each  potato,  and  remove 
as  much  of  the  inside  as  can  be  obtained 
without  damage  to  the  skin.  Mash  the 
potatoes  with  cream,  adding  a  little  but- 
ter, sprinkle  over  a  little  salt,  and  put  to 
it  half  a  pint  of  good  milk  ;  give  it  all  a 
boil ;  take  the  white  of  three  eggs,  whip 
them  until  they  froth,  add  them  to  the 
potatoes  while  they  boil,  and  then  make 
the  potatoes  into  a  paste  j  return  them 
through  the  orifice  in  the  skin  of  the  po- 
tato until  each  skin  is  full  j  bake  them, 
and  serve. 

1052 —POTATOES  A  LA  MAlTEE  D'H6TEL. 

Boil  the  potatoesj    before  they  are 


quite  done  take  them  up,  place  them 
aside,  and  let  them  get  cold ;  cut  them 
in  slices  of  a  mo'derate  thickness  ;  place 
in  a  stewpan  a  lump  of  fresh  butter,  and 
a  teaspoonful  of  flour ;  let  the  butter 
boil,  and  add  a  teacupful  of  broth ;  let 
it  boil  and  add  the  potatoes,  which  you 
have  covered  with  parsley,  chopped  fine, 
and  seasoned  with  pepper  and  salt ;  stew 
them  five  minutes,  remove  them  from  the 
fire ;  beat  up  the  yolk  of  one  egg  with 
a  table-spoonful  of  cold' water  and  a  lit- 
tle lemon-juice.  The  sauce  will  set,  then 
dish  up  the  potatoes  and  serve. 

Or,  Cold  potatoes  that  have  been 
boiled  should  be  used  for  this  purpose. 
Lay  them  in  a  frying  pan  with  sufficient 
milk  (or  cream)  to  cover  them,  add  a 
little  butter,  salt,  and  chopped  parsley, 
and  fry  them  until  the  milk  thickens. 
They  will  be  sufficiently  cooked  in  a 
quarter  of  an  hour,  and  make  an  excel- 
lent dish  for  breakfast. 

To  Boast.— Glenn  thoroughly ;  nick  a 
small  piece  out  of  the  skin,  and  roast  in 
the  oven  of  the  range ;  a  little  butter  *is 
sometimes  rubbed  over  the  skin  to  make 
them  crisp. 

1053.— POTATO  OMELETTE. 

May  be  made  with  a  mashed  potato  or 
two  ounces  of  potato-flour  and  four  eggs? 
and  seasoned  with  pepper,  salt,  and  a  lit- 
tle nutmeg.  It  should  be  made  thick, 
and,  being  rather  "substantial,  a  squeeze 
of  lemon  will  improve  it.  Fry  a  light 
brown. 

1054.— BISCUITS   OF  POTATOES  AND  POTA- 
TO FLOUE.    (French.) 

Take,  fifteen  fresh  eggs,  break  the 
yolks  into  one  pan  and  the  whites  into 
another.  Beat  the  yolks  with  a  pound 
of  sugar  pounded  very  fine,  scrape  the 
peel  of  a  lemon  with  a  lump  of  sugar, 
dry  that,  and  pound  it  fine  also ;  then 
throw  into  it  the  yolks,  and  work  the 


380 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


eggs  and  sugar  till  they  are  of  a  whitish 
color.  Next,  whip  the  whites  well  and 
mix  them  with  the  yolks.  Now  sift  half 
a  pound  of  flour  of  potatoes  through  a 
silk  sieve,  over  the  eggs  and  sugar.  Have 
some  paper  cases  ready,  which  lay  on  a 
plafond,  with  some  paper  underneath. 
Fill  the  cases,  but  not  too  full  ;  glaze  the 
contents  with  some  rather  coarse  sugar, 
and  bake  the  whole  in  an  oven  mode- 
rately heated. 


Julienne  Mill 
1055.— GEEEN  PEAS. 

A  delicious  vegetable,  a  grateful  ac- 
cessory to  many  dishes  of  a  more  sub- 
stantial nature.  Green  peas  should  be 
sent  to  table  green ;  no  dish  looks  less 
tempting  than  peas  if  they  wear  an  au- 
tumnal aspect.  Peas  should  also  be 
young,  and  as  short  a  time  as  possible 
should  be  suffered  to  elapse  between  the 
periods  of  shelling  and  boiling.  If  it  is  a 
matter  of  consequence  to  send  them  to 
table  in  perfection,  these  rules  must  be 
strictly  observed.  They  should  be  as 
near  of  a  size  as  a  discriminating  eye  can 
arrange  them ;  they  should  then  be  put 
in  a  culjender,  and  some  cold  water  suf- 
fered to  run  through  them  in  order  to 
wash  them;  then  having  the  water  in 
which  they  are  to  be  boiled  slightly  salt- 
ed, and  boiling  rapidly,  pour  in  the  peas ; 
keep  the  saucepan  uncovered,  and  keep 
them  boiling  swiftly  until  tender ;  they 
will  take  about  twenty  minutes,  barely 
so  long,  unless  older  than  they  should 


be  ;  drain  completely,  pour  them  into  the 
tureen  in  which  they  are  to  be  served, 
and  in  the  centre  put  a  slice  of  butter, 
and  when  it  has  melted  stir  round  the 
peas  gently,  adding  pepper  and  salt; 
serve  as  quickly  and  as  hot  as  possible. 

It  is  commonly  a  practice  to  boil  mint 
with  the  peas  ;  this,  however,  is  very  re- 
pugnant to  many  palates,  and  as  it  may 
easily  be  added  if  agreeable  to  the  pal- 
ate, it  should  not  be  dressed  with  the 
peas,  although  it  may  accompany  them 
to  table  for  those  who  may  desire  the 
flavor. 

1056.— TO  DEESS  SPANISH  ONIONS. 

Take  off  two  skins,  be  particular  in 
not  cutting  the  stalk  on  the  root  of  the 
onion  too  much  away,  if  you  do,  when 
done  it  will  drop  to  pieces.  Take  four 
large  onions,  put  them  in  a  stewpan  suf- 
ficiently large,  so  that  they  may  not 
touch  each  other,  put  in  a  small  piece  of 
lean  York  ham  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  salt  butter,  cover  them  close,  put  them 
on  a  slow  stove  or  oven,  keeping  them 
turned  carefully  until  all  sides  are  pro- 
perly done :  they  will  take  about  two 
hours :  then  take  them  up  and  glaze 
them,  thicken  the  gravy,  and  season 
with  pepper  and  salt. 

105T.— SALSIFY  AND  SCOEZANEEA. 

Blanch  several  heads  until  the  skin 
will  peel  off;  when  you  have  done  that, 
cut  them  all  in  equal  lengths  ;  if  to  be 
done  in  batter,  dry  them  in  bread-crumbs, 
if  for  sauce  make  them  hot  in  a  little 
veal  stock,  dish  them,  and  pour  a  good 
white  or  brown  sauce  over  them. 

1058.— ASPAEAGUS. 

Great  attention  is  necessary  to  boil  as- 
paragus. It  must  be  carefully  washed 
and  cleaned,  the  horny  part  must  be  cut 
away,  leaving  only  enough  to  take  it  up 
with  the  fingers.  After  the  white  horny 


ASPARAGUS — EGG-PLANT. 


381 


part  has  been  well  scraped,  cut  them  all 
off  at  one  length  and  tie  them  up  in  sepa- 
rate bundles  ;  lay  them  in  boiling  water 
with  a  little  salt.  Boil  them  briskly, 
and  they  are  done  enough  when  tender. 
Dip  a  round  of  toasted  bread  in  the 
liquor,  and  lay  it  in  the  dish  ;  then  pour 
some  melted  butter  over  the  toast,  and 
lay  the  asparagus  on  the  toast  entirely 
round  the  dish.  Serve  with  melted  but- 
ter in  a  sauce-tureen. 
| 
1069.— ASPAEAGUS  LOAVES. 

Boil  three  bunches  of  asparagus ;  cut 
off  the  tops  of  two  bunches  when  ten- 
der, leaving  two  inches  of  the  white 
stalk  on  the  rest,  and  keeping  it  warm ; 
stew  the  tops  in  a  pint  of  new  milk, 
with  three  table-spoonfuls  of  butter, 
rubbed  in  flour,  the  yolks  of  three  eggs, 
nutmeg  and  mace  ;  when  it  boils  put  the 
mixture  into  loaves  of  rolls,  with  the 
crumb  scooped  out ;  put  on  the  tops  of 
the  rolls ;  make  holes  hi  the  tops,  and 
stick  in  the  remaining  asparagus.  ' 

1060.— A8PAEAGUS  FOECED. 

Scoop  out  the  crumb  of  three  or  four 
French  rolls,  preserving  the  piece  cut 
from  the  top,  which  will  have  to  be  fitted 
on  to  the  part  it  was  cut  from  ;  put  into 
a  pan  with  some  fresh  butter,  the  rolls, 
and  fry  them  brown,  beat  up  with  a  pint 
of  cream,  the  yolks  of  six  eggs,  flavor 
with  some  grated  nutmeg  and  a  little 
salt,  put  it  into  a  stewpan,  and  over  a 
slow  fire  ;  let  it  gradually  thicken,  stir- 
ring it.  all  the  time. 

Have  ready  the  tops  of  a  bundle  of 
asparagus,  say  a  hundred,  and  having 
boiled  them  tender,  put  them  into  the 
cream  and  fill  the  rolls  with  the  mix- 
ture, reserving  a  few  tops  to  stick  in 
each  roll  by  way  of  garnish. 

1061.— ASPEEGE  EN  PETIT  POIS,  OE  AS- 
PAEAGUS  PEAS. 

If  the  asparagus  be  properly  dressed, 


it  should  taste  like  green  peas.  Take 
some  young  asparagus,  which  pick  with 
great  care;  then  cut  them  into  small 
equal  pieces,  avoiding  to  put  in  such 
parts  as  are  hard  or  tough.  Wash  them 
in  several  waters,  and  throw  them  into 
boiling  water,  with  a  little  salt.  When 
the  asparagus  are  nearly  done,  drain 
them  first  through  a  sieve,  and  next 
wipe  them  quite  dry  with  a  towel.  Then 
put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  a  small  bit 
of  butter,  a  bunch  of  parsley  and  green 
onions,  and  toss  them  in  the  stewpan 
over  the  fire  for  ten  minutes.  Now  add 
a  little  flour  and  a  small  lump  of  sugar, 
and  moisten  with  boiling  water.  They 
must  boil  over  a  large  fire.  When  well 
reduced,  take  out  the  parsley  and  green 
onions,  and  thicken  with  the  yolks  of 
two  eggs  beaten  with  a  little  cream  and 
a  little  salt :  remember  that  in  this  en- 
trem^t  sugar  must  predominate,  and  that 
there  is  to  be  no  sauce.  Asparagus  are 
always  to  be  dressed  in  this  manner 
when  to  be  served  in  the  second  course ; 
but  for  first  course  dishes,  throw  them 
into  some  good  sauce  tournee,  well  re- 
duced. Boil  them  a  few  times  over  a 
large  fire,  then  powder  a  little  sugar,  and 
make  a  thickening  of  one  egg.  The 
sauce  must  be  made  thick;  on  account  of 
the  asparagus  always  yielding  a  certain 
quantity  of  water,  which  will  thin  the 
sauce. 

1062.— EGG  PLANT. 

Cut  the  egg  plant  in  slices  half 
an  inch  thick,  and  let  it  lie  for  several 
hours  in  salted  water,  to  remove  the  bit- 
ter taste.  To  fry  it  put  the  slices  in  the 
frying-pan  with  a  small  quantity  of  but- 
ter, and  turn  them  when  one  side  is  done. 
Be  sure  that  they  are  thoroughly  cooked. 
Stuffed  egg  plant  is  sometimes  preferred 
to  fried.  Peel  the  plant  whole,  cut  it  in 
two.  and  let  it  lies  in  salted  water.  Then 
scoop  out  the  inside  of  the  plant,  chop  it 
up  fine,  mixing  crumbs  of  bread,  salt  and 


382 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


butter  with  it ;  fry  it,  return  it  to  the 
hollow  egg  plant,  join  the  cut  pieces  to- 
gether, and  let  them  bake  awhile  in  an 
oven.  The  best  way  of  cooking  is  to 
slice  them,  dip  the  slices  into  egg  and 
bread-crumbs,  and  fry  very  brown  in 
butter  or  lard. 

1063.-SALSIFY  OR  OYSTER  PLANT. 

Scrape  the  salsify,  cut  it  in  long  slips 
and  parboil  it,  then  chop  it  up  fine  and 
fry  it  with  egg  batter. 

It  is  sometimes  served  with  the  roots 
whole,  having  been  first  thoroughly  boil- 
ed and  then  fried  hi  egg  batter. 

'  1064.— CAULIFLOWER  DRESSED  LIKE 
MACCARONI. 

Boil  a  cauliflower  in  milk  and  water, 
with  a  little  butter,  half  an  hour,  skim- 
mi  ag  well;  when  tender,  drain,  and  di- 
vide it  small ;  put  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  butter,  half  as  much  grated  cheese, 
half  I  gill  of  milk,  in  a  pan 'to  boil  up, 
and  put  in  the  sprigs  of  cauliflower — 
stew  five  minutes;  then  put  it  into  a 
dish,  grate  over  it  as  much  more  cheese, 
and  brown  it  with  a  shovel. 

To  dress  Cauliflowers,  separate  the 
green  part,  and  cut  the  flower  close  to 
the  bottom  from  the  stalk ;  let  it  soak 
an  hour  in  clear  cold  water,  and  then  lay 
it  in  boiling  milk  and  water,  or  water 
alone,  observing  to  skim  it  well.  When 
the  flower  or  stalk  feels  tender,  it  is  done 
enough,  and  should  be  instantly  taken 
up.  Drain  it  for  a  minute,  and  serve  it 
up  in  a  dish  by  itself,  with  plain  melted 
butter  in  a  sauce-tureen. 

1065 -SPINACH. 

Pick  it  clean,  and  wash  it  in  five  or 
six  waters.  Drain  it,  and  put  it  in  boil- 
ing water.  Ten  minutes  is  generally  suf- 
ficient tune  to  boil  spinach.  Be  careful 
to  remove  the  scum.  When  it  is  quite 
tender  take  it  up,  and  drain  and  squeeze 
it  well.  Chop  it  fine,  and  put  it  into  a 


saucepan  with  a  piece  of  butter  and  a 
little  pepper  and  salt.  Set  it  on  hot 
coals,  and  let  it  stew  five  minutes,  stir- 
ring it  all  the  time. 

1066.— TURNIPS. 

White  turnips  require  about  as  much 
boiling  as  potatoes.  When  tender,  take 
them  up,  peel  and  mash  them — season 
them  with  a  little  salt  and  butter.  Yel- 
low turnips  require  about  twox  hours 
boiling — if  very  large,  split  them  in  two. 
The  tops  of  white  turnips  make  a  good 
salad. 

1067.— BEETS. 

Beets  should  not  be  cut  or  scraped  be- 
fore they  are  boiled,  or  the  juice  will  run 
out,  and  make  them  insipid.  In  summer 
they  will  boil  in  an  hour — in  winter,  it 
takes  three  hours  to  boil  them  tender. 
The  tops  in  summer  are  good  boiled  for 
greens.  Boiled  beets  cut  in  slices,  and 
put  in  cold  spiced  venegar  for  several 
days,  are  very  nice. 

1068.— PARSNIPS  AND  CARROTS. 

Wash  them,  and  split  them  in  two — 
lay  them  in  a  stewpan,  with  the  flat  side 
down,- turn  on  boiling  water  enough  to 
cover  them — boil  them  till  tender,  then 
take  them  up,  and  take  off  the  skin,  and 
butter  them.  Many  cooks  boil  them 
whole,  but  it  is  not  a  good  plan,  as  the 
outside  gets  done  too  much,  before  the 
inside  is  cooked  sufficiently.  Cold  boil- 
ed parsnips  are  good,  cut  in  slices  and 
fried  brown. 

1069.-SEA-KALE 

Requires  to  be  very  well  done  ;  there  is 
little  occasion  to  fear  doing  it  too  much ; 
tie  in  bundles  after  washing  and  trim- 
ming, boil  it  in  equal  parts  of  milk  and 
water,  and  serve  it  with  melted  butter. 

It  may  be  laid  on  toast  or  not,  accord- 
ing to  taste. 


VEGETABLES.  * 


383 


After  being  well  boiled  it  must  be 
thoroughly  drained  before  laying  upon 
the  toast ;  five-and-twenty  minutes  will 
be  found  sufficient  to  boil  it.  Or,  after 
being  drained,  it  can  be  put  in  a  stewpan 
and  stewed  in  a  rich  gravy. 

1070.— TO  STEW  CELEET. 

Wash  the  heads,  and  strip  off  their 
outer  leaves ;  either  halve  or  leave  them 
whole,  according  to  their  size,  and  cut 
them  into  length  of  four  inches.  Put 
into  a  stewpan  with  a  cup  of  broth  or 
weak  white  gravy;  stew  till  tender; 
then  add  two  spoonfuls  of  cream,  a  little 
flour  and  butter,  seasoned  with  pepper, 
salt,  nutmeg,  and  a  little  pounded  white 
sugar ;  and  simmer  all  together. 

Or: — Parboil  it,  cut  it  into  quarters, 
fry  it,  and  serve  it  on  a  napkin,  or  with 
beef  gravy. 

Celery  is  a  great  improvement  to  all 
soups  and  gravies,  and  much  used  as  a 
white  sauce,  either  alone  or  with  oys- 
ters; 

1071.— SAUEE  KEAUT, 

Or  Sour-Kraut,  is  a  German  prepara- 
tion of  cabbage,  fermented  in  layers,  be- 
tween which  salt  is  laid,  and  the  whole 
pressed  closely  down  with  weights  for  a 
few  days,  at  the  end  of  which  it  becomes 
acid,  and  the  greater  part  of  the  juice,  is 
drawn  off. 

In  preparing  it,  the  outward  leaves 
and  the  stalk  are  removed,  the  latter 
being  sliced,  and  the  whole  cabbage  cut 
into  small  pieces,  which  are  pressed 
heavily  down,  and  placed  in  barrels  in  a 
warm  cellar  until  the  fermentation  is 
over:  when  that  is  complete,  put  the 
kraut  into  a  cool  place,  and  it  will  re- 
main good  for  years.  Some  people  think 
it  improved  by  a  mixture  among  the 
layers  of  caraway,  whole  pepper,  and 
juniper-berries,  or  to  have  the  barrels 
smoked  with  the  latter. 

It  is  extensively  used  throughout  the 


northern  parts  of  Europe,  as  a  pleasant 
vegetable,  particularly  with  salted  meats 
and  sausages;  and  is  considered  so  ex- 
cellent an  antiscorbutic  that  it  is  largely 
employed  in  our  navy.  It  requires 
nothing  but  care  in  the  making;  and, 
when  properly  prepared,  may  be  served 
at  any  gentleman's  table.  Boil  it  for 
two  hours,  and  skim  the  water;  or 
change  the  water  for  gravy,  and  stew  it. 

1072.— TO  SEEVE  SOUE-KEAUT. 

Take  out  as  much  sour-kraut  as  you 
wish  from  the  cask,  and  soak  it  for  at 
least  two  hours  in  cold  water,  then  take 
it  into  a  colander  to  drain ;  put  it  into 
a  large  stewpan  or  dinner-pot,  put  on  it 
a  piece  of  corned  pork  or  bacon,  and  put 
hot  water  over  nearly  to  cover  it ;  cover 
the  pot  and  set  it  over  a  moderate  fire 
for  an  hour  or  more  until  the  pork  is 
done.  Serve  with  the  meat  on  it.  Or 
cujt  the  bacon  or  pork  in  slices,  strew 
pepper  over  them;  lay  the  sour-kraut 
on,  put  hot  water  nearly  to  cover  it, 
cover  the  pot  close  and  set  it  over  a 
moderate  fire  for  an  hour  and  a  half. 
Or  it  may  be  boiled  with  water,  and  fried 
sausages  put  over  it  and  served ;  or  the 
sausages  may  be  boiled  with  it,  and  the 
skins  taken  off,  before  serving. 

1073.— AETICHOKES. 

Cut  away  the  outside  leaves  and  make 
the  stalk  as  even  as  possible,  put  them 
into  boiling  water  with  some  salt ;  if  they 
are  very  young  they  will  be  tender  in 
half  an  hour,  if  rather  old  they  will  re- 
quire an  hour  before  they  are  thoroughly 
tender ;  drain  and  trim  the  points  of  the 
leaves,  serve  with  melted  butter. 

They  are  better  for  being  kept  two  or 
three  days. 

The  bottoms  are  sometimes  added  to 
ragouts  or  meat  pies. 

If  dried  you  must  soak  them  well  for 
some  time,  then  stew  them  in  some  good 


384: 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


second  stock  until  tender  ;  take  up  the 
artichokes  and  reduce  the  stock,  add  to 
it  a  little  brown  sauce  seasoned  with 
pepper,  salt,  and  sugar,  a  few  green  peas 
in  the  middle  of  each  or  alternately,  some 
scooped  turnips  boiled,  and  put  into  each ; 
glaze  the  artichokes  before  you  add 
those  to  them  ;  sauce  in  the  dish. 

For  Salad. — The  artichokes  should  be 
very  young,  the  choke  having  scarcely 
formed,  clean  them  and  let  them  soak 
thoroughly,  drain  them,  take  off  the 
stalks  close  and  even,  and  send  them  to 
table  with  the  vegetables  to  form  the 
salad.  This  is  a  favorite  mode  in  Paris 
of  dressing  them. 

1074.— JERUSALEM  ARTICHOKES. 

Pare  them  after  being  well  washed, 
very  smooth  and  of  some  kind  of  shape, 
boil  them  in  milk  and  water,  pay  great 
attention  to  them,  as,  if  not  taken  up  the 
minute  they  are  soft,  they  will  break ;  they 
are  served  up  with  various  kinds  of 
sauces,  white  and  brown,  or  fried  in  but- 
ter, and  dished  upon  a  napkin  with  fried 
parsley. 

1075.— FBENCH   BEANS. 

When  very  young  the  ends  and  stalks 
only  should  be  removed,  and  as  they  are 
done  thrown  into  cold  spring  water  j 
when  to  be  dressed  put  them  in  boiling 
water  which  has  been  salted  with  a 
small  quantity  of  common  salt;  in  a 
quarter  of  an  hour  they  will  be  done ;  the 
criterion  is  when  they  become  tender; 
the  saucepan  should  be  left  uncovered, 
there  should  not  be  too  much  water,  and 
they  should  be  kept  boiling  rapidly. 

When  they  are  at  their  full  growth, 
the  ends  and  strings  should  be  taken  off 
and  the  bean  divided  lengthways  and 
across,  or  according  to  the  present  fashion 
slit  diagonally  or  aslant. 

A  small  piece  of  soda,  a  little  larger 
than  a  good-sized  pea,  if  put  into  the 


boiling  water  with  the  beans,  or  with  any 
vegetables,  will  preserve  that  beautiful 
green  which  it  is  so  desirable  for  them 
to  possess  when  placed  upon  the  table. 

1076.— FKENCH    BEANS    A    LA    MAlTEE 
D'HftTEL. 

Prepare  your  beans  as  for  boiling ;  put 
into  a  stewpan  a  piece  of  butter,  shred 
parsley,  and  green  onions  ;  when  the  but- 
ter is  melted  add  the  French  beans,  turn 
them  a  few  times  over  the  fire,  shake  in 
some  flour,  and  moisten  with  a  little  good 
stock  well  seasoned ;  boil  till  the  sauce  is 
consumed,  then  put  in  yolks  of  three 
eggs,  beat  up  with  some  milk,  and  add  a 
little  vinegar.  Cullis  of  veal  gravy  may 
be  used  instead  of  the  eggs. 

They  may  be  fricasseed  with  a  teacup- 
ful  of  gravy,  and  two  spoonfuls  of  cream 
thickened  with  butter  and  flour. 

1077.— BAKED  BEANS. 

Soak  a  quart  of  dried  beans  over  night, 
hi  cold  water ;  drain  off  the  water  in  the 
morning  and  stew  for  half  an  hour  in  a 
little  water,  put  them  in  a  deep  dish, 
with  one  pound  of  salt  pork,  cut  the  rind 
in  strips,  and  place  in  the  centre  of  the 
dish.  The  pork  should  be  sunk  a  little 
below  the  surface  of  the  beans.  Bake 
for  three  hours  and  a  half.  A  lump  of 
saleratus  should  be  thrown  in  while  the 
beans  are  boiling,  and  a  pint  of  water  be 
added,  when  they  are  put  into  the  bake- 
pan. 

1078.-LIMA  BEANS 

Should  be  gathered  young.  Shell 
them,  lay  them  in  a  pan  of  cold  water, 
and  then  boil  them  about  two  hours,  till 
they  are  quite  soft.  Drain  them  well, 
and  add  to  them  some  butter. 

1079.— SUCCOTASH 

Is  made  by  boiling  young  lima  beans 
with  green  corn  cut  from  the  cob.  A 


VEGETABLES. 


385 


slice  of  fat  pork  may  be  boiled  with  it, 
ard  the  mixture  must  have  a  lump  of 
butter  stirred  in  before  serving.  The 
beans  should  be  boiled  before  the  corn  is 
added,  as  they  take  longer  to  cook. 

10SO—  PONE  OF  SWEET  POTATO. 

To  three  pounds  of  sweet  potatoes 
grated,  add  a  pound  of  butter  and  a  pound 
of  sugar,  with  six  eggs,  a  tea-cup  of  sour 
cream  or  buttermilk,  and  "a  teaspoonful 
of  soda.  Bake  in  a  buttered  dish,  and 
serve  hot. 

1081.— SQUASHES  OE  CYMBELINS. 

Cut  up  the  squashes  in  pieces  of  an 
inch  thick,  having  first  pared  the  squash  ; 
if  old,  'extract  the  seeds  and  boil  the 
pieces  until  they  break,  mash  them  with 
a  spoon,  boil  them  a  little  longer,  and 
when  they  are  done,  squeeze  them 
through  a  colander.  Mix  them  -with  a 
little  salt  and  a  small  quantity  of  butter. 

1082.— WINTEE  SQUASH. 

Winter  squashes  are  stewed  in  the 
same  manner  as  others,  but  they  require 
to  remain  over  the  fire  a  little  longer. 

If  kept  in  a  dry  place,  they  will  remain 
good  all  winter  j  but  if  they  are  once 
frozen,  they  lose  their  flavor,  and  are  apt 
to  decay. 

They  are  richer  and  firmer  than  the 
summer  kind.  After  paring  a  winter 
squash,  cut  it  in  pieces,  and,  having 
taken  out  the  seeds,  boil  it  till  it  is  toler- 
ably soft  in  a  small  quantity  of  water. 
When  you  think  it  sufficiently  done, 
press  out  all  the  water,  mash  the  squash, 
and  add  a  little  butter,  salt,  and,  if  you 
fancy  it,  pepper. 

1083.— SWEET  COEN. 

Corn  is  much  sweeter  to  be  boiled  on 
the  cob.  Put  a  little  salt  into  the  water, 
and  put  in  the  corn  when  it  is  cold.  It 


requires    boiling  from  fifteen  to  thirty 
minutes,  according  to  its  age. 

1084.— GEEEN  COEN   PUDDING. 

Twelve  ears  of  green  corn,  grated,  a 
quart  of  milk,  four  ounces  butter,  the 
same  of  sugar,  four  eggs  beaten  light. 
Bake  in  a  buttered  dish,  and  eat  with 
butter  and  sugar  sauce.  The  com  may 
be  previously  boiled,  when  the  pudding 
will  bake  more  quickly. 

1085.— GEEEN  COEN  OMELET. 

Grate  the  corn  from  twelve  ears  of  corn 
boiled,  beat  up  five  eggs,  stir  thorn  with 
the  corn,  season  with  pepper  and  salt, 
and  fry  the  mixture  brown,  browning 
the  top  with  a  hot  shovel.  If  fried  in 
.small  cakes,  with  a  little  flour  and  milk 
stirred  in  to  form  a  batter,  this  is  very 
nice. 

1086.— GEEEN  COEN  FEITTEES. 
Six  ears  of  boiled  corn,  grated,  two 
eggs,  a  little  milk,  and  just  enough  flour 
to  mix  it.    Drop  a  spoonful  of  the  batter 
into  a  frying-pan,  and  fry  in  butter. 

1087.— ONIONS. 

It  is  a  good  plan  to  boil  onions  in  milk 
and  water,  it  diminishes  the  strong  taste 
of  that  vegetable.  It  is  an  excellent  way 
of  serving  up  onions,  to  chop  them  after 
they  are  boiled",  and  put  them  in  a 
stew-pan,  with  a  little  milk,  butter,  salt, 
and  pepper,  and  let  them  stew  about  fif- 
teen minutes.  This  gives  them  a  fine 
flavor,  and  they  can  be  served  up  very 
hot. 

1088.— TOMATOES, 

If  very  ripe,  will  skin  easily ;  if  not, 
pour  scalding  water  on  them,  and  let  them 
remain  in  it  four  or  five  minutes.  Peel 
and  put  them  into  a  stew-pan,  with  a 
tablespoonful  of  water,  if  not  very  juicy ; 
if  so,  no  water  will  be  required.  Put  in 
a  little  salt,  and  stew  them  for  half  an 


386 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


hour ;  then  turn  them  into  a  deep  dish 
with  buttered  toast.  Another  way  of 
cooking  them,  which  is  considered  very 
nice  by  epicures,  is  to  put  them  in  a 
deep  dish,  with  fine  bread  crumbs, 
crackers  pounded  fine,  a  layer  of  each  al- 
ternately ;  put  small  bits  of  butter ;  a 
little  salt  and  pepper  on  each  layer — 
some  cooks  add  a  little  nutmeg  and  sugar. 
Have  a  layer  of  bread  crumbs  on  the  top. 
Bake  it  three-quarters  of  an  hour, 

1089.— SCOLLOPED  TOMATOES. 

Scald  ripe  tomatoes  and  peel  them ; 
put  them  in  a  dish  with  bread  crumbs, 
layer  over  layer,  seasoning  with  salt  and 
red  pepper.  Have  the  bread  crumbs  on 
the  top,  and  bake  three  hours. 

1090.— TOMATOES,  TO  STUFF. 

Take  some  fine  tomatoes  and  scoop 
the  inside  out,  which  should  be  set  aside 
until  required.  Chop  or  mince  fine  some 
beef,  mutton,  or  other  fresh  under-done 
meat,  mix  with  a  little  pepper,  salt,  and 
a  little  sweet  herbs ;  or  make  a  forcemeat, 
and  mix  with  the  scoopings  of  the 
tomatoes ;  form  into  a  good  consistence, 
and  stuff  the  inside  of  the  vegetable  with 
the  mixture.  Set  the  prepared  vegetables 
in  a  dish  with  a  little  lard  in  a  slow 
oven,  and  bake  until  tender ;  then  serve 
with  the  liquor  that  exudes  during  the 
process ;  but  if  not  brown  enough,  color 
by  means  of  a  salamander  held  over  the 
top  of  each. 

A  good  rich  beef  gravy  poured  over  all, 
improves  the  flavor  very  much.  This  is 
the  best  way  to  dress  these  vegetables, 
and  serves  also  to  make  cold  meat  more 
palatable,  in  addition  to  forming  a  pretty 
and  economical  side  dish. 

1091.— GUMBO 

Two  quarts  fresh  ochras,  the  same  of 
ripe  tomatoes  scalded  and  peeled;  put 
them  in  a  pan  to  melt  with  butter,  pep- 


per and  salt ;  strain  through  the  colan- 
der, and  dish  the  jelly,  to  eat  with 
toast. 

1092.— HOPPING  JOHN  (A  CAROLINA  DISH.) 

This  is  made  by  boiling  a  kind  of  small 
bean,  called  cowpeas  at  the  South,  with 
an  equal  quantity  of  rice,  and  sending 
them  mixed  and  hot  to  the  table. 

1093.— SPLIT-PEAS  PUDDING. 

Take  any  quantity,  say  one  pint,  of 
yellow  split  peas  ;  allow  them  to  remain 
in  water  the  whole  night  before  you  wish 
to  use  them  ;  after  which  take  them  out 
and  put  them  into  a  cloth  so  loose  as  to 
allow  the  peas  to  swell;  boil  them  for 
four  hours,  or  until  they  are  quite  tender, 
then  rub  them  through  a  colander,  so  as 
to  render  them  perfectly  smooth  ;  add  to 
the  pulp  a  lump  of  butter  and  some  salt. 
After  being  well  mixed  put  the  peas  again 
into  a  cloth,  tie  tightly,  and  boil  for  about 
half  an  hour.  Pour  over  it  melted  but- 
ter. 

A  richer  pudding  may  be  made  if  two 
well-beaten  eggs  are  added  along  with 
the  butter.  It  is  served  with  boiled 
pork. 

1094.— STEWED  BEANS. 

Boil  them  in  water  in  which  a  lump  of 
butter  has  been  placed,  preserve  them  as 
white  as  you  can,  chop  a  few  sweet  herbs 
with  some  parsley  very  fine,  stew  them  in 
a  pint  of  the  water  in  which  the  leaves 
have  been  boiled,  to  which  a  quarter  of 
a  pint  of  cream  has  been  added ;  stew  until 
quite  tender,  then  add  the  beans,  stew 
five  minutes,  thicken  with  butter  and 
flour. 

1095.— BEANS,  PUEEE  OF,  WHITE. 
Chop  some  onions  and  fry  them  lightly 
in  a  little  butter  and  flour,  and  moisten 
with  a  teaspoonful  of  broth;  let  the 
onions  be  done ;  boil  the  beans  in  this 
for  half  an  hour,  season  them  well,  use 


VEGETABLES. 


387 


brown  pepper,  and  strain  them  through 
a  tammy ;  reduce  the  puree  over  a  brisk 
fire,  take  off  the  white  scum,  and  before 
you  serve  refine  it  with  a  bit  of  fresh  but- 
ter and  two  spoonfuls  of  thick  cream, 
garnish  it  with  fried  crust  of  bread ;  this 
may  be  made  brown  by  frying  the  onions 
brown. 

1096.— TO  PEESEEVE  PEAS  FOE  WINTEE 

USE.* 

Shell,  scald,  and  dry  them :  put  them 
on  tins  or  earthen  dishes,  in  a  cool  oven, 
once  or  twice,  to  harden.  Keep  them  in 
paper  bags  hung  up  in  the  kitchen.. 
When  they  are  to  be  used,  let  them  lie 
an  hour  in  water  ;  then  set  them  on  with 
cold  water  and  a  bit  of  butter,  and  boil 
them  till  ready.  Put  a  sprig  of  dried 
mint  to  boil  with  them. 

Apperfs  jnefhod.  —  Have  the  peas 
gathered  when  ripe,  for  if  too  young  they 
will  be  watery  and  not  fit  to  keep.  The 
peas,  when  shelled,  should  be  put  into 
strong  jars  or  open-mouthed  bottles,  and 
shaken,  so  as  to  make  them  sit  closely  to- 
gether. This  done,  the  jars  must  be  very 
tightly  corked  and  tied  down.  The  jars 
are  then  placed  upright  in  a  bain-marie,  or 
any  iron  pot  large  enough  to  contain  them, 
with  hay  placed  between  each,  to  prevent 
collision  and  breakage ;  the  pot  is  filled 
with  cold  water  up  to  the  neck  of  the 
jars,  placed  upon  the  fire,  and  allowed  to 
boil  for  an  hour  and  a  half  if  in  cool 
moist  weather,  but  for  two  hours  if  it  be 
hot  and  dry.  The  jars  should  not  be 
taken  out  of  the  pot  until  the  water  be- 
comes cold. 

French  beans  and  asparagus  may  be 
preserved  in  the  same  manner;  they 
maintain  their  color,  but  lose  much  of 
their  flavor,  and  require  a  little  sugar 
to  improve  it. 

1097.— HAEICOT  EOOTS. 
Pare  three  turnips,  and  scrape  two  or 

*  As  practised  in  the  kitchen  of  the  Emperor  of 
Kussia. 


three  good-colored  carrots,  about  two 
dozen  button  onions,  a  head  of  celery ; 
cut  out  with  a  scoop-cutter  sufficient  car- 
rots and  turnips  to  pair  the  button 
onions ;  lay  them  for  a  few  minutes  in 
boiling  water,  keep  all  your  roots  in  wa- 
ter until  all  is  done,  cut  your  celery 
to  correspond  as  to  size  with  the  other 
roots;  when  done  blanch  them,  then 
strain  them  off,  return  them  into  the 
stewpan,  and  put  to  them  some  good 
brown  stock  ;  boil  them  until  reduced  to 
nearly  a  glaze,  then  add  some  brown 
sauce  to  them,  sugar,  pepper,  and  salt,  do 
not  stir  with  a  spoon  to  mash  the  roots, 
which  should  be  quite  perfect. 

1098.— WHITE  HAEICOT  BEANS.— (Spanish 

Eeceipt.) 

Take  a  pint  of  beans,  pour  a  quart  of 
boiling  water  upon  them  and  let  them  re- 
main in  soak  until  the  next  day  ;  cut  a 
lettuce  in  four  pieces  and  put  it  with 
the  beans  in  some  fresh  hot  water,  throw 
in  a  small  fagot  of  parsley,  and  a  slice 
of  ham,  boil  them  until  the  whole  are 
tender. 

Chop  up  some  onions,  with  a  clove  of 
garlic,  fry  them  and  then  put  them  into 
a  stewpan,  put  the  beans  to  them  with  a 
well  beaten  egg  and  some  spice,  heat  them 
and  send  them  to  table.' 

1099.— BEET-EOOTS. 

Cut  in  equal-sized  slices  some  beet  • 
root,  boiled  or  baked,  of  a  good  color, 
make  it  hot  between  two  plates  in  the 
oven,  dish  it  as  you  would  cutlets,  round ; 
make  a  good  piquant  sauce,  boil  some 
button  onions  white  and  tender,  throw 
them  in  the  middle  of  the  dish  with  the 
sauce;  or,  boil  simply,  and  serve  the 
slices  with  melted  butter. 

1100.— FEENCH  WAY  OF  DEESSING  COLD 
BEET-EOOT. 

Take  your  cold  beet-root — chop  it  very 
small  and  put  it  in  a  saucepan  to  heat, 
with  a  little  cream ;  immediately  before 


388 


THE   PEACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


serving,  put  in  a  spoonful  of  vinegar  and 
a  little  brown  sugar ;  serve  hot. 

1101.— BKOCCOLI  A5JD  BUTTERED  EGGS. 
Keep  a  handsome  bunch  for  the  middle, 
and  have  eight  pieces  to  go  round  ;  toast 
a  piece  of  bread  to  fit  the  inner  part  of 
the  dish  or  plate  :  boil  the  broccoli.  In 
the  mean  time  have  ready  six  (or  more) 
eggs  beaten,  put  for  six  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  fine  butter  into  a  saucepan, 
with  a  little  salt,  stir  it  over  the  fire,  and 
as  it  becomes  warm  add  the  eggs,  and 
shake  the  saucepan  till  the  mixture  is 
thick  enough ;  pour  it  on  the  hot  toast, 
and  lay  the  broccoli  as  before  directed. 
This  receipt  is  a  very  good  one,  it  is  oc- 
casionally varied,  but  without  improve- 
ment, the  dish  is  however  nearly  obsolete. 

1102.-CABBAGE— TO  BOIL. 

Nick  your  cabbage  in  quarters  at  the 
stalk,  wash  it  thoroughly  clean,  put  it 
into  boiling  spring  water  with  a  handful 
of  salt  and  a  small  piece  of  soda,  boil  it 
fast,  when  done  strain  it  in  a  colander, 
press  it  gently,  cut  it  in  halves  and  serve. 
Savoys  and  greens  may  be  boiled  in  the 
same  manner,  they  should  always  be 
boiled  by  themselves.  Should  the  cab- 
bage be  left,  it  may  be  chopped,  put  into 
a  saucepan  with  a  lump  of  butter,  and 
pepper,  and  salt,  and  made  hot  and  sent 
to  table. 

Small,  close  cabbages  laid  on  a  stone  floor, 
before  the  frost  sets  in,  will  blanch  and  be 
very  fine,  after  many  weeks'  keeping. 

1103.— STEWED  WATEK-CRESS. 
The  following  receipt  may  be  newj  and 
will  be  found  an  agreeable  and  wholesome 
dish : — Lay  the  cress  in  strong  salt  and 
water,  to  clear  it  from  insects.  Pick  and 
wash  nicely,  and  stew  in  water  for  about 
ten  minutes  ;  drain  and  chop,  season  with 
pepper  and  salt,  add  a  little  butter,  and 
return  it  to  the  stewpan  until  well  heated. 
Add  a  little  vinegar  first  before  serving : 


put  around  it  sippets  of  toast  or  frie(J 
bread. — The  above  made  thin,  as  a  sub- 
stitute for  parsley  and  butter,  will  be 
found  an  excellent  covering  for  a  boiled 
fowl.  There  should  be  more  of  the  cress 
considerably  than  of  the  parsley,  as  the 
flavor  is  much  milder. 

1104.— MUSHEOOMS. 

The  mushrooms  proper  to  be  used  in 
cookery  grow  in  the  open  pasture  land, 
for  those  that  grow  near  or  under  trees, 
are  poisonous.  The  eatable  mushrooms 
first  appear  very  small,  and  of  a  round 
form,  on  a  little  stalk.  They  grow  very 
rapidly,  and  the  upper  part  and  stalk  are 
white.  As  they  increase  in  size,  the 
under  part  gradually  opens,  and  shows  a 
fringed  fur  of  a  very  fine  salmon  color, 
which  continues  more  or  less  till  the 
mushroom  has  gained  some  size,  and 
then  turns  to  a  dark  brown.  These  marks 
should  be  attended  to,  and  likewise  whe- 
ther the  skin  can  be  easily  parted  from 
the  edge,  and  middle,  and  whether  they 
have  a  pleasant  smell.  Those  which  are 
poisonous  have  a  yellow  skin,  and  the 
under  part  has  not  the  clear  flesh  color 
of  the  real  mushroom;  besides  which, 
they  smell  rank  and  disagreeable,  and  the 
fur  is  white  or  yellow. 

In  Stewing,  if  you  wish  to  have  the 
full  taste  of  the  mushroom  only,  after 
washing,  trimming,  and  peeling  them, 
put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  a  little  salt 
and  no  water.  Set  them  on  coals,  and 
stew  them  slowly  till  tender}  adding 
nothing  to  them  but  a  little  butter  rolled 
in  flour,  or  else  a  little  cream.  Be  sure 
to  keep  the  pan  well  covered. 

1105.— BROILED  MUSHROOMS. 

Pare  some  large  open  mushrooms, 
leaving  the  stalks  on,  paring  them  to  a 
point ;  wash  them  well,  turn  them  on  the 
back  of  a  drying  sieve  to  drain.  Put 
into  a  stewpan  two  ounces  of  butter,  some 


VEGETABLES. 


380 


chopped  parsley,  and  shalots,  fry  them 
for  a  minute  on  the  fire  ;  when  melted 
place  your  mushroom  stalks  upwards  on 
a  saute  pan,  then  pour  the  butter  and 
parsley  over  all  the  mushrooms ;  pepper 
and  salt  them  well  with  black  pepper,  put 
them  in  the  oven  to  broil;  when  done 
put  a  little  good  stock  to  them,  give  them 
a  boil,  and  dish  them,  pour  the  liquor 
over  them,  add  more  gravy,  but  let  it  be 
put  in  hot ;  an  ho'ur  and  a  quarter  before 
it  is  done  add  four  table-spoonfuls  of  red 
wine  and  the  liver ;  serve  very  hot. 

1106.— LETTUCES  AND  ENDIVES 
Are  better,  I  think,  only  cut  into  pieces 
or  into  quarters,  and  dished  neatly  round ; 
but  they  must  be  done  in  some  good 
stock  and  not  put  into  the  thick  sauce, 
but  when  you  take  them  out  after  being 
done,  you  will  press  and  form  them,  then 
boil  down  their  liquor  to  a  glaze,  which 
will,  when  added  to  your  already  thick 
sauce,  give  the  desired  flavor  ;  glaze  the 
quarters  before  dishing  them,  pour  the 
sauce  under  and  round. 

IIOV.— TUKNIPS,  WHOLE. 
Pare  several  large  turnips,  scoop  them 
out  with  an  iron  cutter  for  the  purpose, 
throw  them  in  water  as  you  cut  them, 
when  done  blanch  them,  then  strain  them 
off,  if  for  white  add  bechamel  to  them  ; 
if  for  brown,  brown  sauce  ;  season  as  be- 
fore. 

1108.— PUEEE  OF  TUENIPS. 
Pare  and  cut  up  several  turnips  into 
slices,  put  them  on  to  boil  in  milk  and  water 
until  tender,  strain  them  on  the  back  of 
a  sieve,  throw  away  the  liquor,  and  rub 
through  the  turnips;  when  done  put 
them  into  a  stewpan  with  a  piece  of  but- 
ter, a  spoonful  of  flour,  a  gill  of  cream, 
a  little  sugar,  salt,  and  cayenne  pepper. 

1109.— TEUFFLES. 

The  truffle,  like  the  mushroom,  is  a 


species  of  fungus  common  in  France  and 
Italy.  It  grows  about  eight  or  ten  inches 
below  the  surface  of  the  ground.  As  it 
imparts  a  most  delicious  flavor,  it  is  much 
used  in  cooking.  Being  dug  out  of  the 
earth,  it  requires  a  great  deal  of  washing 
and  brushing  before  it  can  be  applied  to 
culinary  purposes.  When  washed,  the 
water  should  be  warm  and  changed  fre- 
quently; it  loses  much  of  its  flavor 
when  dried. 

Truffles  with  Champagne. — Take  ten 
or  twelve  well-cleaned  truffles,  put  them 
into  a  stewpan  on  rashers  of  bacon,  add 
a  bay  leaf,  a  seasoned  bouquet,  a  little 
grated  bacon,  some  slices  of  ham,  some 
stock,  and  a  bottle  of  champagne  ;  cover 
them  with  a  piece  of  buttered  paper,  put 
on  the  lid,  and  set  the 'stewpan  in  hot 
ashes,  put  fire  on  the  top,  and  let  them 
stew  for  an  hour ;  when  done  drain  them 
on  a  clean  cloth,  and  serve  on  a  folded 
napkin. 

To  keep  them. — After  opening  a  fresh 
bottle  and  not  requiring  them  all,  return 
them  into  the  bottle,  filling  up  the  bottle 
with  some  boiled  sherry,  cork  them  down 
until  wanted  again. 

1110 .— MOEELS. 

The  mprel  is  a  kind  of  mushroom,  and 
for  a  ragout  or  garnish  they  are  prepared 
as  follows  : — take  the  largest  morels,  take 
off  their  stalks  and  split  them  in  two  or 
three  pieces,  wash  and  put  them  into  aba- 
sin  of  warm  water  to  free  them  from  the 
sand  and  earth,  then  blanch  and  drain 
and  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with  a  piece 
of  butter  and  lemon  juice,  give  them  a 
turn  and  moisten  with  white  or  brown 
sauce.  They  should  bo  dried  slowly,  put 
in  paper  bags,  and  kept  in  a  dry  place. 

1111.— SIDNEY  SMITH'S  EECEIPT  FOR 
SALAD. 

Two    large    potatoes,    passed    through 

kitchen  sieve, 
Unwonted  softness  to  the  salad  give, 


390 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


Of  ardent  mustard  add  a  single  spoon — 
Distrust  the  condiment  which  bites  so 

soon: 
But  deem  it  not,  thou  man  of  herbs,  a 

fault 

To  add  a  double  quantity  of  salt ; 
Three  times  the  spoon  with  oil  of  Lucca 

crown, 
And  once  with  vinegar,  procured  from 

town. 

True  flavor  needs  it,  and  your  poet  begs 
The  pounded  yellow  of  two  well-boiled 


Let  onion  atoms  lurk  within  the  bowl, 

And,  scarce  suspected,  animate  the  whole ; 

And.  lastly,  on  the  flavored  compound 
toss 

A  magic  teaspoon  of  anchovy  sauce. 

Then,  though  green  turtle  fail,  though 
venison's  tough, 

And  ham  and  turkeys  are  not  boiled 
enough, 

Serenely  full  the  Epicure  may  say, — 

Fate  cannot  harm  me — I  have  dined  to- 
day ! 

1112.— CHICKEN  SALAD. 

Mince  the  meat  of  two  cooked  fowls, 
with  a  little  ham  or  tongue  ;  cut  up  fine 
a  nice  lettuce  head  ;  put  it  in  a  dish,  with 
the  chicken  in  the  centre  ;  for  the  dress- 
ing, take  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  beaten, 
two  teaspoonfuls  of  mixed  mustard,  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  vinegar,  and  four  of  oil, 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  Cayenne  pepper: 
boil  the  mixture,  and  when  cold  pour  it 
over  the  chicken,  and  ornament  it  with 
sliced  white  of  egg  and  of  beets. 

1118.— SALAD  DKESSING  FOE  LETTUCE. 
Two  hard-boiled  eggs,  the  yolks 
mashed  with  four  teaspoonfuls  of  sweet 
oil,  a  saltspoon  of  salt,  and  a  teaspoonful 
of  mustard,  with  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
vinegar.  Add  the  lettuce  cut  up  fine, 
and  mince  the  white  of  egg  to  throw 
f  ver  it. 


1114— SALADS. 

Coss-lettuce  and  blanched  endive  make 
the  best  salad,  the  green  leaves  being 
stripped  off,  and  leaving  nothing  but  the 
close,  white  hearts,  which,  after  being 
washed  and  placed  for  an  hour  or  two  in 
cold  water,  should  be  wiped  quite  dry. 
To  this  should  be  added  a  head  or  two 
of  celery,  a  couple  of  anchovies  (which 
are  far  preferable  to  the  essence),  and 
several  chives,  or  young  onions,  all  cut 
small,  while  the  lettuces  should  be  di- 
vided lengthwise  into  quarters,  and  cut 
into  rather  large  pieces. 

The  mixture  or  dressing. — For  four 
persons  bruise  only  the  yolk  of  one  hard- 
boiled  egg  (leaving  out  altogether  the 
white),  with  some  salt,  and  make  it  into 
a  paste  with  two  large  teaspoonfuls  of 
moutarde  de  maille;  or,  if  obliged  to  use 
common  mustard,  add  to  it  a  drop  or 
two  of  asafoatida,  which  will  impart  to 
it  a  slight  flavor  of  garlic.  Then  add  oil 
and  vinegar  in  the  following  proportions, 
without  using  so  much  as  to  make  the 
sauce  thin,  and  taking  care  to  have  the 
finest  Provence  or  Lucca  oil,  and  the 
very  strongest  species  of  real  French 
vinegar :  namely,  to  every  one  spoonful 
of  vinegar  add  two  of  oil ;  one  spoonful 
of  the  vinegar  being  impregnated  with 
chilis,  which  will  add  warmth  to  the 
salad,  much  more  agreeably  than  cay- 
enne. A  little  tarragon  may  be  an 
improvement,  and  a  spoonful  of  Quihi  or 
walnut  ketchup  is  not  objectionable ;  but 
mushroom  ketchup  will  destroy  the  pun- 
gency of  flavor,  and  both  may  be  left  out 
without  inconvenience. 

When  this  is  done,  mix  the  sauce  well, 
but  lightly,  with  the  salad,  to  which  a 
few  slices  of  boiled  beet-root,  and  the 
white  of  the  egg  sliced,  will  be  a  pretty 
addition. 

The  excellence  of  a  salad  consists  in 
the  vegetables  being  young  and  fresh,  and 
they  should  be  prepared  only  a  short 


SALADS. 


391 


time  before  they  are  wanted ;  the  salad 
mixture  being  either  poured  into  the  bot- 
tom of  the  bowl  or  sent  up  in  a  sauce- 
tureen,  and  not  stirred  up  with  the  vege- 
tables until  they  are  served. 

In  summer  salads  the  mixture  must 
not  be  poured  upon  the  lettuce  or  vege- 
tables used  in  the  salad,  but  be  left  at 
the  bottom,  to  be  stirred  up  when  want- 
ed, as  thus  preserving  the  crispness  of 
the  lettuce. 

In  winter  salads,  however,  the  reverse 
of  this  proceeding  must  be  adopted,  as 
thus :  the  salad  of  endive,  celery,  beet, 
and  other  roots  being  cut  ready  fqr  dress- 
ing, then  pour  the  mixture  upon  the  in- 
gredients, and  stir  them  well  up,  so  that 
every  portion  may  receive  its  benefit. 

In  doing  this,  it  should  likewise  be  re- 
collected that  the  spoon  and  fork  should 
always  be  of  wood,  and  of  sufficient  size 
to  stir  up  the  vegetables  in  large  quan- 
tities.* 

1115.— CHICKEN  SALAD.    (English.) 

Pull  the  meat  off  the  bones,  put  it 
into  a  small  pan  with  a  shalot  cut  in  thin 
slices,  a  few  sprigs  of  parsley,  and  a  ta- 
ble-spoonful each  of  oil  and  tarragon 
vinegar ;  season  the  chicken  well  with 
pepper  and  salt ;  let  it  soak  for  about 
three  hours.  Boil  three  eggs  hard,  cut 
them  in  four  pieces  lengthways;  chop 
two  anchovies,  six  olives,  and  a  dessert- 
spoonful of  capers ;  take  three  lettuces, 
reserve  the  small  hearts  to  garnish  with, 
cutting  them  in  four,  shred  fine  the 
other  leaves,  that  are  white,  and  cut 
roughly  some  small  salad ;  put  a  layer  of 
salad  on  the  dish,  then  the  chicken,  sprin- 
kle the  chopped  anchovy,  &c.,  then  more 
salad  and  chicken  until  you  have  used 
up  the  whole  of  your  materials ;  then 

*  Asa  substitute  for  egg  in  salad,  rub  down  a 
dessert-spoonful  of  a  mashed  potato  with  mustard 
and  salt,  and  some  cream  or  thick  melted  butter, 
which  answers  for  oil  when  that  is  not  at  hand ; 
then  add  the  vinegar. 


mask  it  with  a  thick  Mayonnaise  sauce : 
garnish  it  round  the  bottom  with  tlie 
lettuce-hearts  and  eggs  alternately.  This 
salad  is  much  improved  if  the  dish  can 
be  placed  on  pounded  ice  whilst  it  is 
being  prepared. 

The  remains  of  veal  and  white  poultry, 
when  minced  and  left  cold,  instead  of 
being  fricasseed,  will  thus  be  found  an 
excellent  addition  to  the  dinner  of  a 
summer's  day,  with  added  slices  of  cu- 
cumber. 

1116.— CHICKEN  SALAD. 

Boil  a  chicken  that  weighs  not  more 
than  a  pound  and  a  half.  When  very 
tender,  take  it  up,  cut  it  in  small  strips, 
and  make  the  following  sauce,  and  turn 
over  it — boil  four  eggs  three  minutes — 
then  take  them  out  of  the  shells,  mash 
and  mix  them  with  a  couple  of  table- 
spoonfuls  of  olive-oil,  or  melted  butter, 
two-thirds  of  a  tumbler  of  vinegar,  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  mixed  mustard,  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  salt,  a  little  pepper,  and  essence  of 
celery,  if  you  have  it — if  not,  it  can  be 
dispensed  with.  In  making  chicken  salad, 
the  dressing  should  not  be  put  on  till  a 
few  minutes  before  the  salad  is  sent  in ; 
as  by  lying  in  its  the  chicken  and  celerv 
will  become  hard. 

1117.-SALAD  OF  FOWL. 

Proceed  as  for  that  of  game,  so  far  as 
the  eggs  and  the  salad  are  concerned; 
then  have  a  chicken,  which  has  been  pre- 
viously plain  roasted,  or  in  vegetables, 
and  cut  it  into  ten  neat  pieces,  put  it 
into  a  basin,  season  with  a  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  quarter  ditto  of  pepper,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  oil,  one  of  vinegar,  one  on- 
ion sliced,  and  a  few  sprigs  of  chopped 
parsley ;  mix  them  well,  and  let  them 
remain  for  a  few  hours,  if  time  will  per- 
mit. Take  the  pieces  of  chicken,  and 
place  in  a  dish  with  salad,  as  directed  for 
grouse,  with  the  sauce,  &c.,  and  serve. 


392 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


Nothing  is  better  for  ball-suppers  than 
these  kind  of  dishes ;  they  may  be  made 
of  all  kinds  of  solid  fish,  and  the  sauce 
is  excellent ;  any  kind  of  cold  meat,  cut 
in  slices,  dressed  round  with  the  sauce 
over,  may  be  served  for  supper  or  lunch- 
eon. It  may  be  served  with  the  same 
sauce  or  dressing  as  for  lobster  salad; 
or  make  the  following  one,  which  differs 
a  little :— Put  into  a  middle-sized,  round- 
bottomed  basin,  the  yolk  of  two  eggs, 
half  a  spoonful  of  salt,  quarter  of  one  of 
pepper,  half  a  one  of  sugar,  ditto  of  fine 
chopped  onions,  ditto  of  parsley,  tarra- 
gon, or  chervil,  stir  with  the  right  hand 
with  a  wooden  spoon,  while  you  pour 
some  oil  out  of  the  bottle  by  keeping 
your  thumb  on  its  mouth,  so  that  it  runs 
out  very  slowly ;  when  a  few  spoonfuls 
are  in  it,  it  will  become  quite  stiff;  pour 
also,  by  degrees,  a  few  spoonfuls  of  vine- 
gar, and  so  on  until  you  have  made 
enough  for  your  salad ;  try  if  the  flavor 
is  good  and  relishing ;  as  the  quality  of 
these  two  last  ingredients  vary  so  much, 
I  must  leave  it  to  your  palate  and  correct 
judgment.  If  you  should  fail  at  first, 
try  again  until  you  succeed,  and  I  am 
certain  you  will  be  delighted  with  the 
result;  it  ought  to  be  made  in  a  cold 
place,  particularly  in*  summer.  Great 
taste  should  be  observed  in  the  decora- 
tion of  the  border,  for  which  you  should 
see  the  "  Gastronomic  Regenerator." 

1118.— FISH  SALADS. 
All  fish  salads  are  made  from  the  re- 
mains of  fish  from  a  previous  dinner,  es- 
pecially turbot  and  salmon ;  but  for  fil- 
lets of  soles  they  must  be  dressed  thus 
— When  filleted,  melt  an  ounce  of  butter 
in  a  sautepan,  lay  the  fillets  in,  season 
with  pepper  and  salt,  and  the  juice  of 
half  a  lemon ;  saute  them  on  a  slow  fire 
until  done,  which  may  be  from  four  to 
five  minutes,  and  put  by  to  get  cold ;  cu 
in  middle-sized  pieces  and  use  as  lob- 
ster. 


1119.— MAYONNAISE. 

[The  following  receipt  is  contributed 
to  "  The  Practical  Housekeeper  "  by  Mr. 
Delmonico,  proprietor  of  the  well-known 
establishments  at  the  Irving  House  and 
at  the  corner  of  Beaver  and  William 
streets,  New  York.] 

In  a  middle-sized  dish  placed  in  crack- 
ed ice,  put  the  yolks  of  two  fresh  eggs, 
a  little  salt,  some  white  pepper,  and  some 
vinegar  a  Pestragon.  Stir  this  mixture 
briskly  with  a  wooden  spoon,  and  as  soon 
as  it  begins  to  thicken,  mix  in  gradual- 
ly a  table-spoonful  of  oil  and  a  little 
vinegar,  taking  care  to  beat  the  sauce 
against  the  sides  of  the  dish.  On  this 
repeated  beating  depends  the  whiteness 
of  the  sauce  Mayonnaise.  In  propor- 
tion to  the  bulk  add  oil  and  vinegar 
together,  putting  in  but  little  at  a  time. 
As  it  comes  nearer  perfection  it  grows 
thick  and  strong-bodied.  When  finished 
add  a  squeeze  of  citron  and  some  drops' 
of  water.  This  sauce  is  delicious  for 
chicken  salad — mayonnaise  de  volaille — 
and  serves  for  all  kinds  of  fish  and  poul- 
try. 

1120.— LOBSTEE  SALAD. 

Take  out  the  meat  of  the  claws  and 
body,  cutting  it  into  small  pieces,  and 
mixing  it  with  the  lettuce  or  endive  ;  but 
previously  separate  the  soft  part  of  the 
fish  adhering  to  the  shell,  with  the  red 
spawn  of  the  hen-lobster,  and  blend 
them  with  the  materials  prepared  for  the 
dressing.  It  will  perhaps  require  a  little 
more  pungency  of  flavor,  which  can  be 
imparted  by  a  small  additional  quantity 
of  chili  or  tarragon  vinegar. 

Crab,  or  shrimps,  may  be  used  in  the 
same  manner ;  and  a  great  improvement 
in  either  will  be  found  by  throwing  in  a 
portion  of  savory  calf's-foot  jelly,  di- 
vided into  pieces. 

Although  shell-fish  are  very  decidedly 
the  best  mixture  to  be  put  into  this 
salad,  yet  any  sort  of  firm,  fish,  which 


PICKLES. 


393 


have  been  dressed,  and  partly  left  cold, 
may  also  be  prepared  in  a  similar  way. 


PICKLES  AND  STOEE-EOOM 
SAUCES. 

Although  meat,  when  cured  and  dried, 
is  called  "  pickled,"  yet  in  that  operation 
salt  alone  is  employed  as  brine,  while  in 
the  pickling  of  vegetables,  of  which  we 
are  about  to  treat,  the  means  chiefly  used 
is  vinegar. 

In  the  making  of  all  sorts  of  pickles, 
salads,  and  sauces,  in  which  vinegar  is 
employed,  it  is  of  much  importance  to 
have  it  of  the  strongest  quality,  as  well 
as  of  the  best  flavor.  If  the  flavor  of 
chilis,  capsicums,  tarragon,  eschalots,  gar- 
•lic,  or  any  root,  is  wished  to  be  imparted 
to  the  vinegar,  it  is  only  necessary  to 
put  a  portion  of  either  (say  one  oz.)  into 
a  bottleful  of  the  liquid  ;  cork  it  closely, 
and  in  a  very  few  weeks  it  will  be  found 
thoroughly  impregnated  with  the  pecu- 
liar taste ;  then  strain  it  off,  and  fill  the 
bottle  up  again,  as  it  will  answer  for 
more  than  once.  The  flavor  of  any  herb 
will  also  be  communicated  by  boiling  it 
for  a  short  time  in  the  acid ;  as  well  as  a 
few  fruits,  the  flavor  of  which  is  very  de- 
licious when  imparted  to  vinegar. 

Pickles  should  be  made  at  home,  as 
both  cheaper  and  better.  The  pickles 
should  be  kept  either  in  glass  bottles,  or 
in  stone  or  unglazed  jars,  as  the  vinegar, 
or  even  soured  vegetables,  will  corrode 
the  glazing  of  the  jars,  which,  being  made 
from  lead,  is  poisonous.  Use  saucepans 
lined  with  earthenware  or  stone  pipkins 
to  boil  your  .vinegar  in.  If  you  are  com- 
pelled to  use  tin,  do  not  let  your  vinegar 
remain  in  it  one  moment  longer  than  ac- 
tually necessary;  employ  also  wooden 
knives  and  forks  in  the  preparation  of 
your  pickles.  Fill  your  jars  three  parts 


full  with  the  articles  to  be  pickled,  and 
then  add  vinegar  up  to  the  neck  of  the 
jar  or  bottle. 

When  greening,  keep  the  pickles  cov- 
ered down,  or  the  evaporation  of  the 
steam  will  injure  the  color ;  a  little  nut 
of  alum  may  be  added  to  crisp  the  pic- 
kles, but  it  should  be  very  small  in  pro- 
portion to  the  quantity,  or  it  will  give  a 
disagreeable  flavor. 

If  any  symptoms  appear  of  the  pickles 
becoming  mouldy,  boil  the  vinegar  again, 
adding  a  little  more  spice;  keep  them 
also  close  stopped,  as  exposure  to  the  air 
makes  the  pickle  soft. 

1121.— TO  PICKLE  ONIONS. 

Silver  Sort. — Choose  small  button 
onions,  as  near  of  a  size  as  possible; 
throw  them  into  warm  water,  which  will 
prevent  their  affecting  the  eyes  so  much, 
while  peeling  them.  As  they  are  peeled, 
throw  them  into  a  strong  brine  of  salt 
and  water,  with  a  small  bit  of  alum ;  let 
them  remain  in  this  till  the  next  day, 
then  put  them  on  the  fire,  and  boil  them 
in  it  for  a  minute.  Or,  as  they  are  peeled, 
throw  them  into  milk  and  water ;  drain 
them  from  this  when  they  are  all  done, 
put  them  into  a  jar,  and  pour  the  brine 
on  them  boiling  hot ;  cover  them  close, 
and  set  them  aside  till  the  next  day; 
drain  and  dry  them  in  a  cloth ;  put  them 
into  cold  vinegar,  with  a  few  blades  of 
bruised  ginger,  some  whole  pepper,  and, 
if  approved,  a  little  mace  and  sliced 
horseradish;  keep  them  always  well 
covered  with  vinegar ;  cork  the  jar  close, 
and  put  it  in  a  cool  dry  place. 

Full-grown  Sort. — Peel  and  slice  large 
onions,  and  sprinkle  them  with  salt.  To 
every  gallon  take  about  a  dozen  capsi- 
cums, either  dry  or  green,  slicing  only  a 
part ;  add  a  few  cloves,  some  pepper  and 
allspice,  all  whole.  Put  the  onions  into 
jars,  distribute  the  spices  pretty  equally 
among  them,  fill  up  the  jars  with  vine- 


394 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


gar,  and  set  them  in  a  pan  of  cold  water 
over  the  fire,  taking  care  that  they  are 
closely  tied  down  with  a  bladder :  keep 
a  wet  cloth  over  them  to  prevent  the 
bladder  from  bursting.  In  about  an 
hour  and  a  half  the  onions  will  be  soft 
enough. 

Onions  and  Cucumbers. — To  every 
dozen  of  cucumbers  put  three  large  onions, 
cut  both  hi  thick  slices,  and  sprinkle  salt 
over  them.  Next  day  drain  them  for 
five  or  six  hours,  then  put  them  into  a 
stone  jar,  pour  boiling  vinegar  over  them, 
and  keep  them  in  a  warm  place.  Eepeat 
the  boiling  vinegar,  and  stop  them  up 
again  instantly,  and  so  on  till  green ;  the 
last  tune  put  pepper  and  ginger ;  keep  in 
stone  jars.  The  vinegar  is  very  good  for 
winter  salads. 

1122.-GAELIC  PICKLE. 

Steep  one  quarter  of  a  pound  of  ginger 
in  strong  salt  and  water  for  five  days, 
then  cut  it  into  slices  and  dry  it  in  the 
sun ;  put  it  into  a  large  stone  jar  with  a 
gallon  of  the  best  white-wine  vinegar. 
Peel  one  pound  of  garlic,  salt  it  well,  and 
let  it  stand  in  the  salt  three  days ;  wipe 
it,  and  dry  it  in  the  sun,  then  put  it  into 
the  pickle ;  add  also  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  long  pepper  steeped  in  salt  and  water 
and  well  dried,  one  pound  of  mustard- 
seed  bruised,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  turmeric.  Shake  these  ingredients 
well  in  the  jar,  and  add  any  thing  that  it 
is  desirable  to  pickle  as  it  comes  into 
season,  salting  and  drying  them  pre- 
viously in  the  sun.  When  completed,  the 
pickle  should  be  kept  a  year  or  two  be- 
fore it  is  used. 

Shalots  may  be  pickled  in  the  same 
way  ;  or  if  put,  as  we  have  already  stat- 
ed, in  a  bottle  of  cold  vinegar,  their  fiV 
vor  will  be  imparted  to  it  in  the  course 
of  a  month. 

1128.— CUCUMBEES. 

Tf  full-grown,  the  small  long  sort  are 


the  best  for  pickling.  Let  them  be  fresh- 
gathered  ;  pull  off  the  blossoms,  but  do 
not  rub  them ;  pour  over  them  a  strong 
brine  of  salt  and  water  boiling  hot,  cover 
them  close,  and  let  them  stand  all  night. 
The  next  day  stir  them  gently  to  take 
off  the  sand,  drain  them  on  a  sieve,  and 
dry  them  on  a  cloth  ;  make  a  pickle  with 
the  best  white-wine  vinegar,  ginger, 
pepper  (long  and  round),  and  a  little 
garlic.  When  the  pickle  boils  throw  in 
the  cucumbers,  cover  them,  and  make 
them  boil  as  quickly  as  possible  for  three 
or  four  minutes ;  put  them  into  a  jar  with 
the  vinegar,  and  cover  them  closely; 
when  cold,  put  in  a  sprig  of  dill,  the  seed 
downward.  They  will  be  exceedingly 
crisp  and  green  done  in  this  manner ;  but 
if  they  do  not  appear  to  be  of  a  fine  color, 
boil  up  the  pickle  the  next  day,  and  pour 
it  boiling  on  the  cucumbers. 

1124— MUSHEOOMS. 

To  pickle  Mushrooms  White. — Take 
the  very  small  buttons,  clean  and  rub 
them  with  a  flannel,  then  put  them  into 
cold  distilled  vinegar,  and  allow  it  to 
come  to  a  boil  very  slowly ;  drain  and  lay 
them  in  a  cloth  till  cold,  and  then  put 
them  into  fresh  distilled  vinegar.  If 
very  small,  they  should  not  be  allowed 
to  boil,  as  so  strong  a  heat  might  destroy 
them.  It  will,  therefore,  be  sufficient  to 
warm  them  ;  and  when  dried,  they  may 
be  again  put  into  the  vinegar  in  which 
they  had  been  originally  placed,  after  it 
has  been  cooled.  As  to  spice,  a  little 
mace  will  improve  their  flavor,  but  no 
hot  pepper  should  be  used.  Those  which 
are  red  underneath,  may  also  be  used ; 
but  those  which  are  black  are  too  old, 
and  only  fit  for  broiling  or  to  make 
ketchup. 

To  pickle  Mushrooms  Brown. — Choo&e 
them  older,  but  see  that  they  be  fresh, 
and  of  a  nearly  pink  color  underneath ; 
clean,  and  sprinkle  them  with  salt,  put 
them  in  layers,  and  let  them  stand  for  a 


PICKLES. 


395 


couple  of  days;  then  add  some  whole 
pepper,  cover  them  very  close,  and  put 
them  into  an  oven  when  bread  is  baking. 
That  done,  take  them  out,  strain  off  the 
liquor,  into  which  put  cloves,  mace,  and 
allspice,  and  let  the  whole  boil  for  a  little 
while.  While  that  is  doing,  put  the 
mushrooms  into  the  stewpan  for  a  short 
time,  then  take  the  whole  off  the  fire, 
and  when  perfectly  cold  pot  them,  with 
the  addition  of  a  little  vinegar. 

An  excellent  way  to  preserve  the  flavor 
of  mushrooms  when  l)eing  pickled,  is,  to 
rub  them  with  a  bit  of  flannel  and  salt, 
and  from  the  larger  take  out  the  red  in- 
side ;  when  they  are  black  they  will  not 
do,  being  too  old.  Throw  a  little  salt 
over,  and  put  them  into  a  stewpan  with 
some  mace;  as  the  liquor  comes  out, 
shake  them  well,  and  keep  them  over  a 
gentle  fire,  till  all  of  it  be  dried  into  them 
again ;  then  put  as  much  vinegar  into  the 
pan  as  will  cover  them,  give  it  one  warm, 
and  turn  all  into  a  glass  or  stone  jar. 
They  will  keep  two  years,  and  are  de- 
licious. 

1125.— MUSHEOOM  POWDEB. 

"Wash  a  half  peck  of  large  mushrooms 
while  quite  fresh,  and  free  them  from 
dirt  and  grit  with  flannel ;  scrape  out  the 
black  part  clean,  and  do  not  use  any  that 
are  worm-eaten ;  put  them  into  a  stewpan 
over  the  fire  without  water,  with  two 
large  onions,  some  cloves,  a  quarter  of 
an  ounce  of  maces,  and  two  spoonfuls  of 
white  pepper,  all  in  powder ;  simmer  and 
shake  them  till  all  the  liquor  be  dried 
up,  but  be  careful  they  do  not  burn.  Lay 
them  on  tins  or  sieves,  in  a  slow  oven, 
till  they  are  dry  enough  to  beat  to  pow- 
der ;  then  put  the  powder  in  small  bot- 
tles corked  and  tied  closely,  and  keep  in 
a  dry  place. 

A  teaspoonful  will  give  a  very  fine 
flavor  to  any  soup  or  gravy,  or  any  sauce. 
It  is  to  be  added  just  before  serving,  and 
one  boil  given  to  it  after  it  is  put  in.. 


1126.— TO  PICKLE  WALNUTS. 
Gather  the  walnuts  when  tender,  and 
put  them  in  salt  and  water :  prick  each 
with  a  needle  several  times ;  let  them 
stand  two  or  three  days,  changing  the 
water  every  day.  Make  a  brine  of  salt 
and  water  strong  enough  to  bear  an  egg ; 
it  must  be  quite  cold  before  being  used, 
and  be  well  skimmed  while  boiling.  To 
every  hundred  walnuts  allow  one  gallon 
of  water.  Let  the  walnuts  soak  six 
days,  then  change  the  brine,  and  let  them 
stand  six  more;  then  drain  them,  and 
expose  them  to  the  sun  that  they  may 
turn  black ;  pour  over  them,  in  a  jar,  a 
pickle  of  the  best  white- wine  vinegar, 
with  a  good  quantity  of  pepper,  pimento, 
ginger,  mace,  cloves,  mustard-seed,  and 
horseradish,  all  boiled  together,  but  cold. 
To  every  hundred  walnuts  allow  six 
spoonfuls  of  mustard-seed,  with  an  ounce 
of  whole  black  pepper,  and  two  or  three 
heads  of  garlic  or  shalot,  but  the  latter  is 
least  strong ;  let  them  be  quite  covered 
with  vinegar.  This  done,  they  will  be 
good  for  several  years,  if  closely  covered. 
The  air  will  soften  them.  They  will 
not,  however,  be  fit  to  eat  under  six 
months. 

1127.— TO  PICKLE  EADISH-PODS. 
Gather  the  radish-pods  when  they  are 
quite  young,  and  put  them  into  salt  and 
water  all  night ;  then  boil  the  salt  and 
water,  and  pour  it  over  the  pods  in  jars, 
and  cover  them  closely  to  keep  in  the 
steam.  When  the  brine  is  cold  boil  it, 
and  pour  it  hot  upon  the  pods  again,  re- 
peating the  process  until  they  are  green ; 
then  put  them  in  a  sieve  to  drain,  and 
make  a  pickle  for  them  of  white- wine 
vinegar,  mace,  ginger,  long  pepper,  and 
horseradish;  pour  it  boiling  hot  upon 
the  pods,  and  when  nearly  cold  boil  it 
again,  and  pour  it  over  them.  When 
cold,  tie  down  the  jars. 

1128.— TO  PICKLE  FEENCH  BEANS. 

Gather   them   before    they   become 


396 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


Btringy,  and,  without  taking  off  the  ends, 
put  them  into  a  very  strong  brine  until 
they  become  yellow;  drain  the  liquor 
from  them,  and  wipe  them  dry  with  a 
cloth.  Put  them  into  a  stone  jar  by  the 
fire,  put  in  a  little  bit  of  alum,  and  pour 
boiling  vinegar  upon  them  every  twenty- 
four  hours,  preventing  the  escape  of  the 
steam.  In  four  or  five  days  they  will 
become  green.  Boil  a  little  mace,  whole 
pepper,  and  ginger  in  the  vinegar. 
Do  samphire  the  same  way. 

1129.— NASTURTIUMS 

So  much  resemble  capers,  both  in  fla- 
vor and  the  mode  of  pickling,  as  to  be 
frequently  used  in  the  same  manner ; 
the  seeds  should  be  allowed  to  get  ripe 
after  the  buds  and  flowers  have  gone  off. 
Gather  them  upon  a  dry  day,  and  keep 
them  for  a  few  days  after  they  have  been 
gathered ;  put  them  into  a  jar,  and  pour 
boiling  vinegar  well  spiced  upon  them; 
when  cold,  cover  the  jar.  They  will  not 
be  fit  for  use  for  some  months,  but  will 
be  finely  flavored  after  keeping,  and  are 
sometimes  preferred  to  capers,  for  which 
they  are  an  excellent  substitute,  being 
useful  also  in  serving  up  all  dishes  in 
which  pickles  are  warmed  with  the 
gravy.  Young  red  capsicums  and  elder- 
flowers  before  they  open  may  be  done  in 
the  same  way. 

1130.— TO  PICKLE  RED  CABBAGE. 

Take  those  of  a  deep  red  or  purple 
color,  strip  off  the  outer  leaves  and  cut 
out  the  stalk;  quarter  the  cabbage 
lengthwise  and  cut  it  crosswise,  but  not 
in  very  thin  slices ;  put  it  into  .a  sieve 
and  sprinkle  it  with  salt  and  saltpetre; 
let  it  drain  for  twenty-four  hours,  then 
squeeze  it  until  it  is  very  dry  ;  make  a 
pickle  with  sufficient  vinegar  to  cover  the 
cabbages  well,  and  made  with  equal  quan- 
tities of  cloves  and  allspice,  with  a  little 
mace — to  be  put  in  whole,  to  which  if  a 
very  small  quantity  of  cochineal  be  add- 


ed, it  will  greatly  improve  the  color; 
boil  the  vinegar  and  spices  together  for 
full  five  minutes,  and  strain  it ;  then, 
having  put  the  cabbage  into  a  stone  jar, 
pour  the  vinegar  over  it  boiling  hot. 

This  is  opposed  to  the  practice  of  some 
persons,  who  object  to  boiling  the  vine- 
gar, and  pour  it  cold  upon  the  cabbage. 

1181.—  CABBAGE,  WHITE,  PICKLED. 

Slice  your  cabbage  thin,  then  lay  it  in 
salt  for  twenty-four  hours ;  strain  it 
very  dry,  then  put  it  in  a  stone  jar  with 
allspice,  mace,  and  vinegar,  and  pour  it 
on  boiling  hot,  tie  it  very  clo.se,  repeat 
the  vinegar  three  times,  and  it  will  be  fit 
for  use.1 

1182.— CABBAGE,  PURPLE,  TO  PICKLE. 

Take  two  cauliflowers,  two  red  cab- 
bages, half  a  peck  of  kidney  beans,  stick 
with  six  cloves  of  garlic  on  each  stick, 
wash  all  well ;  give  them  one  boil  up, 
then  strain  them  in  a  sieve,  lay  them  leaf 
by  leaf  upon  a  large  table  and  salt  them 
with  coarse  salt ;  then  lay  them  to  dry  in 
the  sun,  or  in  a  slow  oven,  until  as  dry 
as  cork. 

1133.— CELERY,  TO  PICKLE. 

Separate  the  stalks  from  the  head,  clean 
them  thoroughly,  and  put  them  into  salt 
and  water  strong  enough  to  bear  an  egg ; 
.et  them  remain  in  this  for  a  week  or  ten 
days,  or  until  wanted  to  pickle ;  then 
;ake  them  out,  wash  them  well  in  clean 
water,  drain  dry,  place  in  ajar,  and  pour 
boiling  vinegar  over,  to  which  any  ap- 
Droved  spices  may  have  been  added.  As 
s  usual  for  pickling  keep  it  well  covered 
with  vinegar ;  if  the  celery  is  allowed  to 
remain  a  long  time  in  salt  and  water,  it 
will  be  necessary  to  soak  it  in  clean 
water  for  a  day  or  two,  changing  the 
water  occasionally. 

1134— TO  PICKLE  CAULIFLOWERS. 

Take  the  closest  and  whitest  cauli- 


PICKLES. 


397 


flowers  you  can  get,  and  pull  them  in 
bunches,  and  spread  them  on  an  earthen 
dish,  and  lay  salt  all  over  them,  let  them 
stand  for  three  days  to  bring  out  all  the 
water,  then  put  them  in  earthen  jars, 
and  pour  boiling  salt  and  water  upon 
them,  and  let  them  stand  all  night,  then 
drain  them  on  a  hair  sieve,  and  put  them 
into  glass  jars,  and  fill  up  your  jars  with 
vinegar,  and  tie  them  close  down  with 
leather. 

1185.— PiCKLED  TOMATOES. 

The  tomatoes  should  not  be  very  ripe. 

Mix  in  a  large  stone  jar,  one  ounce  of 
mustard,  and  half  the  same  quantity  of 
cloves  and  black  pepper,  and  fill  the  jar 
half  full  of  the  best  vinegar.  Lay  in  the 
tomatoes,  mixing  with  them  a  dozen  or 
more  whole  onions. 

The  jar  should  not  be  opened  for  a 
month,  when  the  pickles  will  be  fit  for 
use ;  great  care  must  be  taken  to  close 
the  jar  well  whenever  pickles  are  taken 
out.  This  done,  they  will  keep  a  year. 

Another. — Take  a  peck  of  ripe  toma- 
toes, prick  them  with^a  fork,  and  lay 
them  in  a  jar  with  layers  of  salt.  Let 
them  remain  eight  days  in  salt;  then 
take  them  out  and  put  them  for  twenty- 
four  hours  in  fresh  water  with  a  little 
vinegar. 

Take  them  out,  press  them  gently,  and 
lay  them  on  a  sieve  to  drain.  Slice 
twelve  large  onions,  or  more  smaller 
ones.  Put  a  layer  of  the  tomatoes  in  a 
stone  jar,  tnd  cover  them  with  a  layer 
of  slices  of  onion.  Over  this  strew 
mustard,  allspice,  black  pepper,  and 
cloves — all  but  the  cloves  ground  fine. 
Then  place  on  the  mass  another  layer  of 
tomatoes,  with  another  of  sliced  onions 
and  the  mixed  spices.  Place  the  layers 
alternately  till  the  jar  is  filled.  Then 
pour  over  it  the  best  vinegar,  filling  the 
jar,  and  cover  closely.  The  pickles  will 
be  fit  for  use  in  ten  days. 


1136.— TO  PICKLE  LEMONS. 

Take  the  finest  with  the  thickest  rind 
you  can  get,  cut  them  deeply  from  end 
to  end  in  more  than  one  place,  but  not 
quite  through,  and  fill  the  incisions  with 
salt ;  put  each  on  end,  and  lay  them  in  a 
dish  near  the  fire,  or  in  the  sun  if  the 
weather  be  hot,  to  dissolve  the  salt,  and 
repeat  this  during  three  weeks ;  then 
put  them  into  a  jar,  with  a  handful  of 
white  mustard-seed  if  it  be  large,  one- 
quarter  to  one-half  a  pound  of  bruised 
ginger,  half  that  quantity  of  cloves  and 
allspice,  a  few  chilis,  and  a  very  little 
turmeric;  boil  in  vinegar,  and  pour  it 
upon  the  lemons  when  cold.  It  was 
originally  prepared  by  the  cook  of  the 
first  Earl  of  Orford.  " 

Some  people,  however,  (add  to  it  either 
shalot  or  garlic.  It  can  hardly  be  ready 
in  less  than  six  months,  but  will  keep 
for  many  years. 

For  limes,  or  very  small  lemons,  the 
same  method  must  be  pursued,  only  they 
will  not  require  above  half  the  time. 

1137.— MANGOES. 

Cut  a  piece  off  the  top  or  side  of  young 
mush-melons,  and  remove  the  pulp  and 
seeds  ;  tie  on  the  pieces,  green  them,  and 
fill  the  inside  with  grated  horseradish, 
spices,  cloves,  ginger,  mustard-seed,  onion 
or  garlic,  and  slices  of  the  core  of  cab- 
bage. Tie  on  the  pieces  again,  pour  'on 
them  scalding  vinegar,  four  days  in  suc- 
cession, and  keep  them  in  covered  jars. 

Mangoes  may  be  made  of  peaches. 

Observe  that  there  be  plenty  of  vine- 
gar, as  pickles  are  spoiled  if  not  well 
covered.  Large  cucumbers,  called  "  green 
turley,"  prepared  in  the  same  way,  are 
excellent,  and  are  sooner  fit  to  be  eaten. 

The  greater  number  of  times  boiling 
vinegar  is  poured  over  either  sort,  the 
sooner  it  will  be  ready. 

1138.— MIXED  PICKLE. 

To  one  gallon  of  vinegar  put  four 


398 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


ounces  of  ginger  bruised,  two  ounces  of 
white  pepper,  two  of  allspice,  two  of 
chilis,  four  of  turmeric,  one  pound  of 
mustard-seed,  one-half  pound  of  shalots, 
one  ounce  of  garlic,  and  one-half  pound 
of  coarse  salt.  Boil  all  together  except  the 
mustard-seed,  which  must  be  added  af- 
terwards. Then  mix  very  smoothly  one- 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  made  mustard 
with  some  of  the  vinegar,  when  cold,  in 
a  basin,  and  add  it  to  the  remainder  with 
the  seed.  Take  broccoli,  radish-pods, 
French  beans,  or  any  other  vegetables  or 
small  fruit ;  blanch  the  vegetables,  lay 
them  on  a  sieve,  and  sprinkle  a  little  salt 
over  them  to  draw  out  the  water.  Let 
them  stand  in  the  sun  till  very  dry,  then 
pour  the  vinegar  boiling  over  them,  sli- 
cing in  some  horseradish  if  approved. 

Pickle  of  this  kind  can  be  rendered 
hot  at  pleasure,  by  additions  of  chilis, 
green  and  red  capsicums — which,  when 
gathered  young,  add  exquisite  flavor — 
and  all  sorts  of  foreign  peppers.  As  the 
spring  advances,  a  portion  of  every  small 
root  produced  in  a  garden,  if  collected 
and  thrown  into  cold  vinegar,  till  it  can 
be  conveniently  made  into  a  regular 
pickle,  will  be  found  most  excellent,  at 
no  greater  expense  than  the  cost  of  the 
spice  and  vinegar,  and  the  trouble  of 
mixing  it. 

1139.— INDIA  PICKLE 

Is  made  in  nearly  the  same  manner. 
Put  two  hundred  gherkins,  three  pints 
of  small  onions,  one  .  quart  of  nastur- 
tiums, one  ditto  of  radish-pods,  one 
quart  of  French  beans,  six  cauliflowers, 
and  two  hard  white  cabbages  sliced,  into 
a  pan,  and  sprinkle  them  with  salt,  the 
onions  having  been  previously  peeled  and 
laid  in  salt  and  water  for  a  week  to  take 
off  their  strength.  Then,  after  a  day  or 
two,  take  them  out  of  the  pan  and  dry 
them  thoroughly  in  a  warm  place  in  the 
shade:  they  must  be  spread  out  sepa- 


rately. To  two  gallons  of  vinegar  put 
one  and  a  half  ounces  of  allspice,  the 
same  of  long  pepper  and  of  white,  and 
two  of  ginger,  tied  up  in  muslin  bags. 
When  cold,  mix  with  the  vinegar  one 
and  a  half  pounds  of  flour  of  mustard, 
and  two  table-spoonfuls  of  cayenne  pep- 
per. Boil  it  well  together,  and  pour  it 
on  the  pickle :  the  vegetables  mentioned, 
not  being  all  procurable  at  the  same 
time,  may  be  added  separately,  at  differ- 
ent  periods,  but  they  must  all  undergo 
the  salting  and  drying  process. 

In  choosing  those  vegetables  some  dis- 
crimination may  also  be  used :  when  in 
season,  few  things  add  a  higher  flavor  to 
the  pickle  than  the  buds  and  flowers  of 
the  elder. 

1140.  -PLUMS,  TO    PICKLE  LIKE  OLIVES. 

T  ake  the  plums  before  they  are  quite 
ripe,  and  put  them  into  a  saucepan  with 
some  white  wine  vinegar,  salt  water,  fen- 
nel seed,  and  dill,  as  much  of  each  as 
will  impart  a  flavor  to  the  pickle  ;  when 
it  boils  put  in  the  plums,  let  it  boil 
again,  then  take  it  off,  let  it  stand  till 
cold,  then  put  them  into  jars. 

1141.— QUINCE,  TO  PICKLE. 

Pare  and  cut  half  a  dozen  quinces  into 
small  pieces,  and  put  them  with  a  gallon 
of  water  and  two  pounds  of  honey  into  a 
large  saucepan,  mix  them  together  well, 
and  set  them  on  a  slow  fire  for  half  an 
hour,  strain  the  liquor  into  a  jar,  when 
quite  cold  wipe  the  quinces  perfectly  dry, 
and  put  them  into  it ;  cover  them  very 
close. 

1142.— PEACHES  AND  APEICOTS. 

Take  those  of  a  full  growth,  but  per- 
fectly green.  Put  to  a  gallon  of  vinegar 
half  an  ounce  of  cloves,  the  same  quantity 
of  peppercorns,  sliced  ginger  and  mustard- 
seed — add  salt  and  boil  the  vinegar — 
then  turn  it  on  the  peaches  scalding  hot. 


PICKLES. 


399 


Turn  the  vinegar  from  them  several 
times.  Heat  it  scalding  hot,  and  turn  it 
back  while  hot. 

1143.— TO  PICKLE  GEEEN  PEPPEES. 

The  peppers  must  be  pickled  when 
half  ripe,  and  the  smallest  ones  chosen. 
Make  a  small  hole  at  the  top  and  another 
at  the  bottom  of  the  pepper,  and  extract 
the  core  and  seeds.  A  penknife  should 
be  used  in  performing  this  operation. 
Simmer  the  peppers  for  a  whole  day  in 
salt  and  water  over  a  very  moderate  fire 
— stir  them  every  once  and  awhile  that 
those  at  the  bottom  may  not  burn. 
Leave  them  .over  night  to  cool,  and  the 
next  morning  lay  them  gently  into  a  jar, 
sprinkle,  a  small  quantity  of  mustard  over 
them,  and  fill  up  the  jar  with  cold  vine- 
gar. 

1144.-BUTTEENUTS. 

The  nuts  for  pickling  should  be  gather- 
ed as  early  as  July.  When  a  pin  will  go 
through  them  easily,  they  are  young 
enough  to  pickle.  Soak  them  in  salt  and 
water  a  week — then  drain  it  off.  Rub 
them  with  a  cloth,  to  get  off  the  rough- 
ness. To  a  gallon  of  vinegar  put  a  tea- 
cup of  salt,  a  tablespoonful  of  powdered 
cloves  and  mace,  mixed  together,  half  an 
ounce  of  allspice,  and  peppercorns.  Boil 
the  vinegar  and  spices,  and  pour  it  hot  on 
the  nuts.  In  a  week  scald  the  vinegar, 
and  pour  over  them  again.  They  will 
be  fit  for  use  in  a  fortnight. 

1145.— TO  PICKLE  GHEEKINS  AND  KIDNEY 
BEANS. 

Put  the  beans  and  gherkins,  dried 
with  flannel,  in  salt  and  water  that  will 
bear  an  egg,  leave  them  till  quite  yellow, 
stirring  every  day.  Then  put  them  in  a 
brass  kettle  with  cabbage  leaves  under 
and  around  them,  so  that  they  do  nat 
touch  the  brass.  Put  in  one  third  vine- 
gar and  two  of  water,  put  a  leaf  over, 
and  cover  close,  so  as  to  confine  the 


steam.  Put  them  on  a  slow  fire,  but  do 
not  let  them  boil.  Change  the  leaves  as 
often  as  they  grow  yellow.  When  green, 
take  out  the  pickles,  and  put  them  on  a 
dish  to  cool  and  dry.  Boil  the  vinegar 
with  a  spoonful  of  black  pepper,  and  one 
of  bruised  ginger  to  a  quart ;  throw  it 
boiling  over  the  pickles,  and  cover  them 
closely  in  small  jars. 

1146.— BAEBEEEIES. 

Barberries  make  very  good  pickles, 
and  are  always  useful  in  ornamenting 
certain  dishes.  Leave  the  barberries  on 
the  stem,  lay  them  in  a  stone  jar  and  fill 
it  up  with  cold  vinegar. 

1147.— GEAPES. 

Cut  them,  when  hardly  ripe,  in  bunches, 
put  them  in  a  jar  with  vine  leaves 
between  each  layer  of  grapes  until  the  jar 
is  filled ;  then  take  as  much  spring  water 
as  will  cover  the  grapes  and  the  leaves. 
As  it  heats  put  in  as  much  salt  as  will 
make  a  brine  sufficiently  strong  to  bear 
an  egg>  y°u  ma7  use  common  salt: 
when  it  boils  skim  it,  strain  it  through 
a  flannel  bag  and  let  it  stand  to  set- 
tle ;  by  the  time  it  is  cold  it  will  be 
quite  settled;  strain  it  a  second  time 
through  a  flannel  bag,  then  pour  it 
into  a  jar  upon  the  grapes,  which  must 
be  well  covered;  fill  the  jar  with  vine 
leaves,  then  tie  it  over  with  a  double 
cloth  and  set  a  plate  upon  it ;  let  it  stand 
for  two  days,  then  take  off  the  cloth, 
pour  away  the  brine,  then  take  out  the 
leaves  and  the  grapes,  and  lay  them  be- 
tween two  cloths  to  dry,  then  take  two 
quarts  of  vinegar,  one  quart  of  spring 
water,  and  one  pound  of  coarse  sugar, 
boil  it  for  a  short  time  and  skim  it  very 
clean  as  it  boils ;  let  it  stand  till  it  is 
quite  cold.  Wipe  the  jar  very  clean  and 
dry,  lay  some  fresh  vine  leaves  at  the 
bottom  between  every  bunch  of  grapes 
and  on  the  top ;  then  pour  and  strain  the 
pickle  on  the  grapes,  fill  the  jar,  let  the 


400 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


pickle  be  above  the  grapes,  tie  up  a  thin 
piece  of  board  in  a  flannel,  lay  it  on  the 
grapes  to  keep  them  under  the  pickle, 
tie  them  down  with  a  bladder,  and  over 
that  a  leather,  always  keeping  the  grapes 
under  the  pickle. 

1148.-APPLE  CODLINGS,  TO  PICKLE. 

Gather  the  codlings  when  of  the  size 
of  a  large  double  walnut ;  take  a  pan  and 
make  a  thick  layer  of  vine  leaves  at  the 
bottom ;  put  in  the  codlings  and  cover 
them  well  with  vine  leaves  and  spring 
water,  and  put  them  over,  a  slow  fire  till 
they  are  sufficiently  tender  to  pare  the 
skins  with  ease  with  a  small  sharp  knife, 
put  them  into  the  same  water  with  vine 
leaves  as  before ;  cover  them  close,  and 
set  the  pan  at  a  short  distance  from  the 
fire  until  they  are  of  a  fine  green,  then 
drain  them  in  a  colander  till  they  are 
cold ;  put  them  into  jars  with  some  mace 
and  a  clove  or  two  of  garlic,  according  to 
the  quantity  of  the  apples,  and  cover 
them  with  distilled  vinegar;  pour  over 
mutton  fat,  and  tie  them  down  with  a 
bladder  and  leather  very  tight. 

1149.— ARTICHOKES  PICKLED. 

Boil  the  artichokes  till  you  can  pull 
the  leaves  off;  take  out  the  choke  and 
cut  away  the  stalk,  be  careful  that  the 
knife  does  not  touch  the  top;  throw 
them  into  salt  and  water  ;  when  they 
have  lain  an  hour  take  them  out  and 
drain  them,  then  put  them  into  glasses 
or  jars,  and  put  a  little  mace  and  sliced 
nutmeg  between  ;  fill  them  with  vinegar 
and  spring  water,  cover  your  jars  close. 

VINEGARS. 

1150.— VINEGAR  FOE  INDIA  PICKLE. 

Prepare  a  gallon  of  vinegar,  more  or 
Aess,  according  to  the  quantity  of  pickles 
to  be  done,  in  the  following  manner : — 

Mix  gradually  one-quarter  of  a  pound 


of  the  best  flour  of  mustard,  and  two 
ounces  of  powdered  turmeric,  with  somo 
of  the  cold  vinegar  at  first,  to  ensure  its 
being  properly  mixed  ;  then  add  the  rest, 
with  one-quarter  of  a  pound  of  white 
mustard-seed.  Bruise  one-quarter  of  a 
pound  of  ginger,  two  ounces  of  white 
pepper,  and  one  ounce  of  chilis,  and  tie 
them  in  a  muslin  bag.  Boil  the  whole 
gently  for  twenty  minutes  or  half  an 
hour,  and  pour  it  whilst  boiling  on  the 
pickles,  having  previously  drained  off 
the  vinegar  they  were  first  put  in.  In 
ten  or  twelve  days  repeat  the  boiling, 
pour  it  over  the  pickles  whilst  boiling 
hot,  and  they  will  be  ready;  for  use  when 
cold. 

1151.— WALNUT  VINEGAR. 

Put  green  walnut-shells  into  a  brine 
of  salt  and  water  strong  enough'  to  float 
an  egg ;  let  them  lie  covered  in  this  ten 
or  twelve  days ;  take  them  out,  and  lay 
them  in  the  sun  for  a  week ;  put  them 
into  a  jar,  and  pour  boiling  vinegar  oil 
them  ;  in  about  a  week  or  ten  days  pour 
off  the  vinegar,  make  it  boiling  hot,  and 
pour  over  them  again.  In  a  month  it 
will  be  fit  for  use,  and  will  be  found  ex- 
cellent to  eat  with  cold  meat,  and  par- 
ticularly useful  in  making  sauces. 

1152.— CUCUMBER  VINEGAR. 

Pare  and  slice  fifteen  large  cucumbers, 
and  put  them  in  a  stone  jar,  with  three 
pints  of  vinegar,  four  large  onions  sliced, 
two  or  three  shalots,  a  little  garlic,  two 
large  spoonfuls  of  salt,  three  teaspoon- 
fuls  of  pepper,  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
cayenne.  After  standing  four  days,  give 
the  whole  a  boil :  when  cold,  strain,  and 
filter  the  liquor  through  paper. 

1153.— CAMP  VINEGAR. 

Slice  a  large  head  of  garlic,  and  put  it 
into  a  wide-mouthed  bottle,  with  half  an 
ounce  of  cayenne,  two  teaspoonfuls  of 


VINEGARS. 


401 


real  soy,  two  of  walnut  ketchup,  four 
anchovies  chopped,  one  pint  of  vinegar, 
and  enough  cochineal  to  give  it  the  color 
of  lavender-drops.  Let  it  stand  six 
weeks  ;  then  strain  off  quite  clear,  and 
keep  in  small  bottles  sealed  up. 

Another : — Infuse  in  a  quart  of  the  best 
white- wine  vinegar,  a  quarter  of  a  pint 
of  walnut  ketchup,  the  same  quantity  of 
mushroom  ketchup,  and  the  same  quan- 
tity of  soy,  tialf  an  ounce  of  cayenne, 
four  heads  of  garlic,  ten  shalots,  two 
ounces  of  black  and  two  ounces  of  white 
pepper,  the  same  quantity  of  pimento 
and  ginger,  one  ounce  of  nutmeg,  three 
blades  of  mace,  and  ten  cloves,  in  a  wide- 
mouthed,  two-quart  bottle ;  and  cover 
very  closely  with  cork,  leather,  and  blad- 
der. Let  it  remain  near  the  fire  a  month, 
shaking  it  frequently.  When  any  is 
taken  out,  put  in  as  much  fresh  vinegar. 
This  is  not  only  a  very  fine  sauce,  but  a 
great  preservative  against  infectious  dis- 
eases, if  taken  freely. 

1154.— NASTTJETICTM  VINEGAE. 

Pick  full-blown  nasturtium  flowers ; 
fill  a  wide-mouthed  bottle  with  them ; 
add  half  a  clove  of  garlic  and  a  moderate- 
sized  chalot  chopped ;  pour  as  much  vine- 
gar as  the  bottle  will  take;  in  two 
months'  time  rub  the  whole  through  a 
fine  sieve;  add  a  little  cayenne  pepper 
and  salt. 

1155.-TAEEAGON  AND  ELDEE-FLOWEE 
VINEGAE. 

Take  either  the  young  leaves  of  tarra- 
gon when  the  plant  is  going  into  bloom, 
or  the  buds  of  elder-flowers,  and  to 
every  half  peck  put  one  gallon  of  vine- 
gar, leaving  it  for  a  fortnight  in  a  jug  to 
ferment.  Then  drain  it  through  a  flannel 
ba^,  put  into  it  a  small  bit  of  dissolved 
isinglass,  and  bottle  it. 

The  flavor  of  the.  herbs  may  also  be 
extracted  by  boiling  the  herbs  or  leaves 
in  vinegar,  without  fermentation :  a  mix- 
ture of  both  is  very  agreeable. 


1156.-EASPEEEEY  YINEGAB. 

To  one  quart  of  common  vinegar  put 
two  quarts  of  fresh  raspberries  ;  let  them 
stand  twenty-four  hours;  then  drain 
them  off,  but  do  not  squeeze  them.  Put 
in  two  quarts  more,  let  them  stand  as 
before,  and  this  must  be  repeated  a  third 
time.  After  which,  put  the  vinegar  into 
a  jar,  measure  it,  and  to  every  pint  put 
one  pound  of  lumr^-sugar.  Set  the  jar 
up  to  the  neck  in  boiling  water,  and  let 
the  vinegar  boil  for  ten  minutes^  stirring 
it  frequently.  Thero  should  on  no  ac- 
count be  fewer  raspberries  than  the  pro- 
portion mentioned,  and  the  vinegar  will 
not  be  fit  for  use  until  the  following  sum- 
mer. 

1157.-SUGAE  YINEGAE. 

To  every  gallon  of  water  put  two 
pounds  of  coarse  brown  sugar.  Boil 
and  skim  this.  Put  it  to  cool  in  a  clean 
tub;  when  about  lukewarm,  add  a  slice 
of  bread  soaked  in  fresh  yeast-  Barrel 
it  in  a  week,  and  set  it  in  the  sun  in 
summer  or  by  the  fire  in  winter,  for  six 
months,  without  stopping  the  bung-hole ; 
but  cover  it  with  thin  canvass  or  an  in- 
verted bottle  to  keep  out  the  flies. 

1158.-CIDEE  YINEGAE. 
Put  a  pound  of  white  sugar  to  a  gal- 
lon of  cider,  and  shaking  them  well  to- 
gether, let  them  ferment  for  four  months ; 
a  strong  and  well-colored  vinegar-will  be 
the  result. 

1159.-FLAYOEED  YINEGAES. 

These  aro  a  cheap  and  agreeable  addi- 
tion to  sauces,  hashes,  &c.  For  one,  infuse 
a  hundred  red  chilis,  fresh  gathered,  into  a 
quart  of  good  vinegar;  let  them  stand 
ten  days,  shaking  the  bottle  every  day. 
A  half  ounce  of  cayenne  will  answer  the 
same  purpose.  This  is  good  in  melted 
butter  for  fish  sauce.  &c. 

1160.— CELEET  YINEGAE. 

Pound  a  half  ounce  of  celery  seed,  and 


402 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


steep  it  for  ten  days  in  a  quart  of  vine- 
gar ;  strain  and  bottle  it. 

1161.— HOESEEADISH  VINEGAE. 
Pour  a  quart  of  strong  vinegar,  boil- 
ing hot;  oa  three  ounces  of  scraped  horse- 
radish and  a  teaspoonful  of  pounded 
black  pepper,  and  half  the  quantity  of 
cayenne.  Let  it  stand  four  days,  tightly 
covered,  then  strain  .and  put  it  in  the 
cruet  for  use.  It  is  good  on  cold  roast 
beefj  and  excellent  in  the  gravy  for  chops, 
steaks,  &c. 

1162.— GOOSEBERRY  VINEGAR. 

Boil  water,  and  when  cold  put  to  every 
three  quarts  one  quart  of  bruised  goose- 
berries in  a  large  tub.  Let  them  remain 
sixty  hours,  stirring  often  ;  then  strain 
through  a  hair  bag,  and  to  each  gallon  of 
liquor  add  one  pound  of  the  coarsest 
sugar.  Put  it  into  a  barrel,  and  a  toast 
and  yeast ;  cover  tbe  bung- hole  with  a 
bit  of  slate.  Set  the  barrel  in  the  sun, 
observing  that  the  cask  be  well  painted, 
and  the  iron  hoops  all  firm.  The  greater 
the  quantity  of  sugar  and  fruit,  the 
stronger  the  vinegar ;  and  as  this  is  parti- 
cularly useful*  for  pickles,  it  might  be  well 
to  make  it  of  double  the  strength  for  that 
purpose. 

1163.— CHILI  VINEGAR. 

Fill  a  bottle  with  the  chilis  or  capsi- 
cums— each  of  which  will  impart  the 
proper  warmth  of  flavor — and  cover  them 
with  vinegar;  cork  it  up  closely,  let  it 
stand  for  three  weeks  or  a  month,  then 
pour  off  the  vinegar,  and  fill  up  the  bottle 
again:  chilis  are  the  most  commonly 
used,  but  good  capsicums  will  flavor 
several  additions  of  vinegar.  If  capsi- 
cums are  not  procurable,  put  one  ounce 
of  cayenne  pepper  to  a  quart  of  .vinegar, 
and  let  it  stand  some  time,  shaking  it 
occasionally.  Then  strain  it  off,  and  fill 
the  bottle  up  again.  ^ 


1164.— LEMON  FLAVORING  FOR  PUDDINGS. 
Peel  six  lemons  very  thin  indeed ;  put 
the  peel  into  a  glass  bottle,  and  add  a 
table- spoonful  of  bitter  almonds,blanched, 
or  the  same  quantity  of  peach  or  apri- 
cot kernels.  Cover  the  whole  with 
brandy;  shake  it  frequently,  and  in  a 
month  strain  it,  and  if  kept  closely  cork- 
ed it  will  keep  for  years. 

1165.— MUSHROOM   KETCHUP. 

Take  the  full-grown  flaps  of  freshly- 
gathered  mushrooms,  crush  them  with 
the  hands,  throw  a  handful  of  salt  into 
every  peck,  and  let  them  stand  a  night  or 
two ;  then  put  them  into  pans,  and  set 
them  in  a  quick  oven  for  twelve  hours  ; 
strain  them  through  a  hair  sieve,  and 
press  out  all  the  juice.  To  every  gallon 
of  liquor  put  of  cloves,  Jamaica  and  black 
pepper,  and  ginger,  one  ounce  each,  and 
half  a  pound  of  common  salt.  Set  it  on 
a  slow  fire,  and  let  it  boil  until  half  the 
liquor  is  wasted ;  then  put  it  into  another 
vessel,  and,  when  cold,  strain  and  bottle 
it ;  at  the  same  time  corking  it  up  close- 
ly, and  covering  the  cork  with  oiled 
paper. 

Or: — Take  the  largest  broad  mush- 
rooms, break  them  into  an  earthen  pan, 
strew  salt  over,  and  stir  them  now  and 
then  for  several  days,  till  there  is  a  thick 
scum  over :  strain  and  boil  the  liquor 
with  Jamaica  and  black  peppers,  mace, 
ginger,  a  clove  or  two,  and  some  mustard 
seed.  Cayenne  pepper  is  too  hot,  but  a 
very  little  chili  vinegar  is  an  improve- 
ment. When  cold,  bottle  it,  and  secure 
the  corks  as  above,  leaving  the  spice  in. 
At  the  end  of  three  months  strain  the 
liquor  and  boil  it  with  fresh  spice,  which 
put  into  the  bottles  ;  and  in  a  cool  place 
it  will  keep  two  or  three  years. 

We  strongly  recommend  the  addition 
of  a  moderate  quantity  of  port  wine — 
from  half  a  pint  to  not  quite  a  pint  to 
every  four  quarts — both  as  greatly  im- 


KETCHUPS. 


403 


proving  the  flavor  of  the  ketchup  and  en- 
suring its  better  preservation. 

With  regard  to  the  spice,  care  should 
be  taken  not  to  allow  it  to  overpower  the 
natural  flavor  of  the  vegetable. 

1166.— WALNUT  KETCHUP. 

Thoroughly  bruise  one  hundred    and 
twenty  young  walnuts ;    put  to    them 
L  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  fine  salt  and 
quart  of  vinegar ;  stir  them  every  day 
>r  a  fortnight ;  then  strain ;  squeeze  the 
fquor  from  them  through  a  cloth ;  add 
ft«4liis  one  ounce  of  whole  black  pepper, 
r  cloves,  half  an  ounce  of  nutmeg 
[ised.  half  an  ounce  of  ginger,  and  a 
blades  of  mace.     Boil  the  wholefc  for 
half  an  hour;   strain  and  bottle  it  for 
use. 

Walnut  Ketchup  of  the  finest  quality 
— Boil  or  simmer  a  gallon  of  the  express- 
ed juice  of  walnuts  when  they  are  tender, 
and  skim  it  well ;  then  put  in  two  pounds 
of  anchovies,  bones,  and  liquor,  ditto  of 
shalots,  one  ounce  of  cloves,  ditto  of 
mace,  ditto  of  pepper,  and  one  clove  of 
garlic.  Let  all  simmer  till  the  shalots 
sink  ;  then  put  the  liquor  into  a  pan  till 
cold  ;  bottle  and  divide  the  spice  to  each. 
Cork  closely,  tie  the  bladder  over,  and 
jr.ut  it  in  small  bottles. 

It  will  keep  twenty  years  in  the 
greatest  perfection,  but  is  not  fit  for  use 
the  first  year.  Be  very  careful  to  ex- 
press the  juice  at  home,  for  it  is  generally 
adulterated  if  bought. 

Irish  mode : — Take  a  few  hundred 
green  walnuts,  scoop  out  all  the  whites, 
beat  them  in  a  mortar,  and  strain  the 
juice  through  a  cloth ;  let  it  stand  a  day 
and  night,  strain  it,  and  pour  it  off  clear. 
To  one  pint  of  this  liquor  put  half  a  pint 
of  vinegar  with  half  a  pound  of  anchovies, 
and  to  each  pint  thus  made  a  clove  or 
two  of  garlic,  two  or  three  shalots,  some 
horseradish,  and  one  onion  cut  in  quar- 
ters ;  boil  it  two  hours,  and  then  strain 


it  off.  When  strained  add  to  every  pint 
of  liquor  half  a  quarter  of  'an  ounce  of 
mace,  the  same  quantity  of  cloves,  of 
nutmeg,  and  of  whole  black  pepper,  half 
a  pint  of  port  wine,  and  two  table-spoon- 
fuls of  soy.  Boil  them  together  for  half 
an  hour.  Then  pour  it  off  into  an  earthen 
jar,  and  let  it  remain  covered  until  it  is 
cold ;  bottle  it  off  into  clean  dry  bottles, 
distributing  the  spice  equally  in  each  ; 
cork  it  down  closely ;  take  care  in  boiling 
to  keep  the  saucepan  covered. 

1167.— CUCUHBEK  KETCHUP. 

Take  an  equal  quantity  of  large  cucum- 
bers and  large  onions,  pare  and  slice 
them ;  throw  over  them  a  handful  of  salt, 
and  let  them  stand  all  night  in  a  sieve 
placed  over  a  pan.  Take  the  liquor  and 
boil  it  up.  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
anchovies  to  every  dozen  of  cucumbers, 
one  pint  of  white  wine,  a  nutmeg,  a 
quarter  of  an  ounce  of  mace,  and  half  an 
ounce  of  whole  pepper ;  strain  it,  and 
when  cold  bottle  it ;  tie  it  down  with 
bladder.  It  will  keep  for  two  years. 

The  Suffolk  Receipt. — Take  a  dozen 
well-grown  cucumbers  and  four  large 
onions,  slice  them  into  an  earthen  pan 
with  a  good  handful  of  salt ;  let  them 
stand  till  the  liquor  begins  to  run,  break 
them  into  small  pieces,  and  let  the  whole 
stand  another  day  and  night :  then  strain 
it  off;  to  every  quart  put  the  same  quan- 
tity of  white,  but  not  sweet  wine,  half  a 
pound  of  anchovies,  and  a  large  stick  of 
horseradish ;  boil  them  together  for  half 
an  hour,  then  strain  it  again,  and  to 
every  quart  put  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of 
white  pepper,  half  the  quantity  of  mace 
and  nutmeg,  all  pounded,  and  boil  it  well 
again.  When  cold,  bottle  it  with  the 
spice,  and  put  a  piece  of  ginger  into  each 
bottle.  A  tablespoonful  in  a  sauceboat- 
ful  of  cream  or  melted  butter  makes  de- 
licious white  sauce  for  fowls  or  made 
dishes  of  veal. 


404: 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


1168.— TOMATO  KETCHUP. 
.  Take  two  dozen  of  ripe  tomatoes  and  a 
handful  of  salt ;  slice  the  tomatoes,  and 
put  a  layer  into  a  jar,  sprinkle  salt  over 
it.  then  another  layer  of  tomatoes  and 
salt,  until  the  jar  is  full.  Stir  the  con- 
tents now  and  then  for  three  or  four 
days,  keeping  the  jar  in  a  warm  place  by 
the  fire ;  at  the  expiration  of  which  time 
press  the  juice  from  the  tomatoes  by 
rubbing  them  with  a  wooden  spoon 
through  a  sieve,  and  boil  it  with  mace, 
pepper,  allspice,  ginger,  and  cloves,  in  the 
proportion  of  about  two  ounces  in  all  to 
one  quart  of  juice,  a  few  blades  of  mace, 
twelve  cloves,  a  spoonful  of  pounded 
ginger,  and  the  remainder  pepper  and  all- 
spice. In  three  months  boil  it  again 
with  fresh  spice. 

1169.— TOMATO  SAUCE  FOR  WINTER  USE. 
One  peck  of  tomatoes,  six  onions  sliced, 
two  heads  of  celery,  a  dozen  shalots,  one 
ounce  of  cayenne  pepper,  half  an  ounce 
of  black  pepper,  one  ounce  of  mace  in 
powder.  Slice  them  into  a  well-tinned 
saucepan,  mixing  the  Reasoning  with  them 
as  they  are  cut  up ;  boil,  keeping  them 
well  stirred ;  when  thoroughly  soft,  drain 
off  the  water,  and  rub  through  a  hair 
sieve.  Boil  it  again  until  it  is  as  thick 
as  apple-sauce  Put  it  into  bottles,  and 
cork  close.  Put  the  bottles  into  a  stew- 
pan,  fill  it  with  cold  water,  and  let  it 
boil  for  twenty  minutes.  Keep  in  a  cool 
place.  Examine  the  bottles  occasionally, 
an.d  if  there  is  the  least  indication  of  a 
change  turn  it  into  the  kettle  again,  boil 
and  skim  it,  keeping  it  well  stirred  from 
the  bottom  that  it  may  not  adhere,  and 
put  it  into  the  bottles  again.  When  re- 
quired for  use,  warm  what  is  wanted 
with  a  little  gravy.  It  is  as  nice  as  when 
fresh  done,  and  will  be  found  excellent 
with  calf's  head  or  brains,  veal,  beef, 
mutton,  pork,  or  goose.  An  onion  or  a 
shalot,  boiled  in  the  gravy  with  which 
it  is  mixed,  will  be  an  improvement. 


1170.— CAMP  KETCHUP. 

Take  two  quarts  of  old  strong  beer 
and  one  of  white  wine,  add  a  quarter  of 
a  pound  of  anchovies,  three  ounces  of 
shalots  peeled,  half  an  ounce  of  mace, 
the  same  of  nutmeg,  three  large  races  of 
ginger  cut  in  slices ;  put  all  together  over 
a  moderate  fire  till  one  third  is  wasted. 
The  next  day  bottle  it  with  the  spice  and 
the  shalots.  It  will  keep  for  many 
years. 

Or  : — A  pint  of  claret,  the  same  quan- 
tity of  ketchup,  four  ounces  of  ancho- 
vies, one  ounce  of  fresh  lemon-peel  pared 
thin,  two  cloves  of  garlic  minced  fine, 
half  an  ounce  of  allspice,  the  same  of 
black  and  of  red  pepper,  one  drachm  of 
celery-seed  bruised,  and  half  a  pint  of 
pickle-liquor.  Put  these  ingredients  into 
a  wide-mouthed  bottle ;  stop  it  close, 
shake  it  every  day  for  a  fortnight,  and 
then  strain  it  off. 

1171.— SEVEN-YEARS'  KETCHUP. 

Take  two  quarts  of  the  oldest  strong 
beer,  put  to  it  one  quart  of  red  wine, 
three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  anchovies, 
three  ounces  of  shalots  peeled,  half  an 
ounce  of  mace,  the  same  of  nutmegs, 
quarter  of  an  ounce  of  cloves,  three  large 
races  of  ginger  cut  in  slices,  and  boil  all 
together  over  a  moderate  fire  till  one- 
third  is  wasted.  When  quite  cold  put 
it  into  a  large  jar,  covered  up,  and  leave 
it  there  for  a  week  or  two  until  the  sedi- 
ment is  wasted,  and  the  clear  liquor  is 
perfectly  transparent;  then  strain  it 
through  a  fine  hair  sieve,  taste  it,  and 
add  to  it  a  little  of  any  essence  of  spice, 
oil,  or  vinegar,  which  you  think  may  im- 
prove it,  and,  if  the  liquid  be  not  lucidly 
clear,  give  it  one  smart  boil :  let  it  rest 
till  cool,  and  bottle  it  in  very  small  bot- 
tles to  prevent  its  frequent  exposure  to 
the  air. 

It  will  improve  by  age,  and  may  be 
carried  on  a  voyage  round  the  world. 

As  may  also 


STOREROOM   SAUCES. 


405 


Sauce  d  la  Militaire,  made  thus : — 
Put  into  an  earthen  pot  six  shalots 
sliced,  a  clove  of  garlic  split,  two  laurel- 
leaves,  a  handful  of  thyme,  basil,  and  tar- 
ragon-leaves, half  an  ounce  of  mustard- 
seed  bruised,  one  teaspoonful  of  grated 
Seville  orange-peel,  quarter  of  an  ounce 
of  cloves,  the  same  quantity  of  mace, 
half  an  ounce  of  long  pepper,  two  ounces 
of  salt,  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  six  spoon- 
fuls of  the  strongest  vinegar,  and  half  a 
pint  of  white  wine.  Stop  the  pot  very 
closely,  and  put  it  into  an  oven,  or  upon 
hot  ashes,  for  twenty-four  hours,  to  al- 
low the  ^whole  to  infuse  properly.  Then 
allow  it  to  settle,  and  strain  it  until  it  is 
quite  clear :  bottle  it,  and  close  the  bot- 
tles tightly  :  a  very  small  quantity  will 
be  sufficient,  and  it  may  be  used  with  all 
sorts  of  meat,  game,  or  fish. 

1172.— ARTIFICIAL  SAUCES  FOE  FISH. 

Those  most  commonly  used  are  soy 
and  anchovy,  merely  mixed  from  the 
cruets  into  melted  butter  by  each  indi- 
vidual of  the  company ;  the  butter,  when 
brought  to  table  in  a  prepared  state, 
should  be  made  as  follows : — 

For  Anchovy  8auce,  the  foundation 
should  be  some  of  the  fish  stock  or  gravy 
which  has  been  already  made  and  kept 
in  the  house  for  future  use.  Take  two 
or  three  anchovies,  scrape,  but  do  not 
wash  them,  and  boil  them  along  with  a 
minced  shalot  in  some  of  the  gravy,  until 
they  are  soft  enough  to  be  pounded  to  a 
paste.  Then  strain  the  gravy  and  thick- 
en it  with  the  body  of  the  fish,  after 
having  removed  the  heads,  tails,  and 
bones.  When  that  is  done,  put  it,  for 
about 'a  quarter  of  an  hour,  in  the  stew- 
pan  along  with  a  glass  of  red  wine,  a 
squeeze  of  lemon,  and  the  necessary 
quantity  of  butter. 

The  common  mode  is,  to  chop  three  an- 
chovies, melt  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
butter  in  a  teacupful  of  the  water  in 
26 


which  the  fish  is  boiled,  add  a  spoonful 
of  vinegar,  and  a  little  flour.  Stir  it 
well  over  the  fire  until  it  is  quite  thick. 

Or  : — Not  unfrequently  two  or  three 
spoonfuls  of  the  prepared  essence  of  an- 
chovy are  put  into  the  melted  butter, 
seasoned  with  a  little  cayenne  pepper. 

The  savory  store  sauces  for  fish,  as 
prepared  and  sold  in  the  shops,  are  all  to 
a  certain  degree  agreeable  to  some  pal- 
ates, but  anchovy  and  soy  seem  the  pre- 
vailing sort  for  fish. 

1173.-STOKE  SAUCES. 

1.  Take  two  wine-glasses  of  port,  two 
of  walnut  and  four  of  mushroom  ketchup, 
four  anchovies  pounded,  with  two  sha- 
lots, a  table-spoonful  of  soy,  and  a  tea- 
spoonful   of  cayenne  pepper.     Boil  all 
well  together ;  when  cold,   put   it  into 
bottles  well  corked ;  it  will  keep  good 
for  more  than  a  twelvemonth. 

2.  Take  half  an  ounce  of  mace,  one 
ounce  each  of  cloves,  ginger,  and  allspice, 
one  pound  of  anchovies,  a  bottle  of  either 
white  or  red  wine,  half  a  pint  of  vine- 
gar, a  couple  of  shalots  and  a  clove  of 
garlic  chopped,  and  a  stick  of  scraped 
horseradish,  together  with  a  bundle  of 
pot-herbs.     Let  all  simmer  over  a  slow- 
fire  till  the  anchovies  are  dissolved  ;  then 
strain  the  liquor,  bottle  it  when  cold,  and 
when  wanted  for  use  add  a  table-spoon- 
ful of  the  sauce  to  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
melted  butter. 

3.  Thicken  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
butter  with  flour,  and  brown  it ;  then  put 
to  it  one  pound  of  the  best  anchovies  cut 
small,  six  blades  of  pounded  mace,  ten 
cloves,  forty  berries  of  black  pepper  and 
allspice,  a  few  small  onions,  a  fagot  ,of 
sweet  herbs  (namely,  savory,  thyme,  ba- 
sil, and  knotted  marjoram),  and  a  little 
parsley  and  sliced  horseradish ;  on  these 
pour  half  a  pint  of  the  best  sherry  and  a 
pint  and  a  half  of  strong  gravy.     Sim- 
mer all  gently  for  twenty  minutes,  then 


4:06 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


strain  it  through  a  sieve,  and  bottle  it 
for  use.  The  way  of  using  it  is,  to  boil 
some  of  it  in  the  butter  while  melting. 

4.  Put  into  a  saucepan  a  pint  of  fine 
port  wine,  a  gill  of  mountain,  half  a  pint 
of  fine  walnut  ketchup,  twelve  anchovies, 
and  the  liquor  that  belongs  to  them,  a 
gill  of  walnut  pickle,  the  rind  and  juice 
of  a  large  lemon,  four  or  five  shalots, 
some  cayenne  to  taste,  three  ounces  of 
scraped  horseradish,  three  blades  of  mace, 
and  two  teaspoonfuls  of  made  mustard : 
boil  it  all  gently,  till  the  rawness  goes  off, 
then  put  it  into  small  bottles  for  use. 
Cork  them  very  close,  and  seal  the  top. 

5.  Chop    twenty-four   anchovies,  not 
washed,  and  ten  shalots,  and  scrape  three 
spoonfuls   of  horseradish ;  which,  with 
ten  blades  of  mace,  twelve  cloves,  two 
sliced  lemons,   half  a  pint  of  anchovy 
liquor,  a  quart  of  hock  or  Rhenish  wine, 
and  a  pint  of  water,  boil   to   a  quart ; 
then  strain  off;  and  when  cold,  add  three 
large  spoonfuls  of  walnut  ketchup. 

All  or  any  of  these  will  be  found  ex- 
cellent for  family  use ;  as,  when  added 
to  any  common  sauce  for  fish,  or  even  to 
plain  melted  butter,  a  moderate  quantity 
will  impart  to  it  a  very  fine  flavor,  and 
in  many  cases  they  may  be  used  also  for 
meat,  if  eaten  cold. 

Pontac  Ketchup  is  for  this  purpose 
both  very  simple  and  very  good.  Put 
ripe  elderberries,  picked  from  the  stalk, 
into  a  stone  jar,  with  as  much  strong 
vinegar  as  will  cover  them.  Bake  with 
the  bread ;  -and,  while  hot,  strain.  Boil 
the  liquor  with  a  sufficient  quantity  of 
cloves,  mace,  peppercorns,  and  shalots. 
to  give  it  a  fine  flavor.  When  that  is  ob 
tained,  put  in  half  a  pound  of  the  finest 
anchovies  to  every  quart  of  liquor ;  stir, 
and  boil  only  until  dissolved.  When 
cold,  put  it  into  pint  bottles,  and  tie 
double  bladders  over  each  cork.  The 
Bame  method  should  be  observed  for  pre- 
serving all  ketchups. 


An  excellent  and  not  common  Pickle, 
called  "  Salade^  may  be  made  thus : — 

Fill  a  pint  stone  jar  with  equal  quan- 
tities of  onions,  cucumbers,  and  sour  ap- 
ples, all  cut  into  very  thin  slices,  shaking 
in,  as  you  go  on.  one  teaspoonful  of  salt 
and  three  parts  of  a  teaspoonful  of  cay- 
enne. Pour  in  a  wine-glass  of  soy,  the 
same  of  white  wine,  and  fill  up  the  jar 
with  vinegar.  It  will  be  fit  for  use  the 
same  da}r. 

Quirfs  Sauce  is  also  excellent.  Half 
a  pint  of  common  mushroom  ketchup, 
half  a  pint  of  walnut-liquor,  eight  an- 
chovies, eight  cloves  of  garlic,  four  bruis- 
ed and  four  whole,  three  teaspoonfuls  of 
cayenne  pepper,  three  of  mushroom- 
powder,  all  boiled  together  for  five  min- 
utes, and  bottled  when  cold. 

1174.— CAYENNE  PEPPEE 

May  be  made  by  pounding  the  dry  pep- 
pers, or  chilis,  to  a  fine  powder,  with 
salt,  and  keeping  it  in  bottles. 

1175.— FEENCH  MUSTAED. 

To  mustard  ground,  add  tarragon  vine- 
gar and  oil,  with  salt  and  garlic.  Tarra- 
gon vinegar  is  made  by  covering  the 
leaves  with  vinegar,  and  steeping  them 
in  it. 


PASTE— MEAT  PIES— FISH 
PIES. 

1176.— VAEIOUS  SOETS  OF  PASTE. 

In  making  paste  for  pies  great  care 
should  be  taken  that  the  flour  be  well 
dried;  for  the  finer  kinds  of  paste  it 
ought  also  to  be  sifted.  The  very  best 
salt  butter  is  perhaps  the  best  material 
for  making  paste.  Some  persons  employ 
lard,  or  equal  parts  of  lard  and  butter ; 
and  clarified  dripping  is  an  excellent  sub- 
stitute. 


PASTE RAISED   PIES. 


407 


An  adept  in  pastry  never  leaves  any 
part  of  it  adhering  to  the  board  or  dish 
used  in  making.  The  best  thing  to  make 
it  upon  is  a  slab  of  marble  or  slate; 
which  substances  cause  less  waste,  being 
cold  and  smooth.  The  coolest  part  of  the 
house,  and  of  the  day,  should  be  chosen 
for  the  process ;  the  hands  should  be 
previously  washed  in  very  hot  water,  and 
the  less  they  touch  the  paste  the  better 
and  lighter  it  will  prove  ;  nor  should  it 
be  rolled  much. 

In  whatever  way  paste  be  made,  wet- 
ting it  much  will  render  it  tough. 

Salt  butter  of  the  best  quality  makes 
a  fine  flaky  crust ;  for  sweet  things,  wash 
it.  In  making  pie-crust  lard  is,  however, 
better  than  butter ;  and  in  making  the 
paste  it*  is  sometimes  mixed  with  the 
flour  in  a  dry  state. 

Heating  the  oven  properly  is  a  very 
essential  point  in  baking  the  various  sorts 
of  paste  to  be  here  enumerated. 

Raised  pies  must  be  put  into  a  quick 
oven,  or  the  crust  will  fall.  The  cook 
should  accurately  know  the  proper  heat 
for  each  article,  as  opening  the  door  to 
observe  their  progress  lets  in  the  air,  and 
often  spoils  them.  They  require  from 
one  half  to  a  full  hour  more  than  when 
baked  in  a  dish. 

1177— CEUST  FOE  EAISED  PIES. 

Boil  water  with  a  little  fine  lard,  and 
an  equal  quantity  of  fresh  dripping,  or 
of  butter,  but  not  much  of  either.  While 
hot,  mix  this  with  as  much  flour  as  you 
will  want,  making  the  paste  as  stiff  as 
you  can  to  be  smooth,  which  you  will 
make  it  by  good  kneading  and  beating  it 
with  the  rolling-pin.  When  qjiite  smooth, 
put  a  lump  into  a  cloth,  or  under  a  pan} 
to  soak  till  nearly  cold. 

In  raising  paste  it  should  be  brought 
to  a  firm  consistence,  and  of  sufficient 
thickness  to  hold  the  meat  together ;  it 
should  therefore  not  be  too  rich,  and  it 


is  easier  to  be  worked  if  moderately 
warm  than  cold.  The  proper  way  to 
raise  the  crust  is  by  placing  the  left  hand 
on  the  lump  of  paste,  and  with  the  right 
keep  working  it  up  the  back  of  the  hand, 
till  all  be  of  the  proper  shape  and  thick- 
ness; a  mould,  or  a  decanter,  may  be 
used.  When  worked  into  the  desired 
form  -the  meat  is  then  put  into  the  pie; 
and,  when  quite  full,  the  lid  is  put  on  and 
fixed  to  the  wall  or  side  ;  the  top  being 
ornamented  with  some  device,  also  made 
of  paste.  Before  putting  it  in  the  oven 
glaze  it  all  over  with  white  of  egg. 

Those  who  have  not  a  good  hand  at 
raising  crust  may  roll  the  paste  of  a 
proper  thickness,  and  cut  out  the  top  and 
bottom  of  the  pie,  then  a  long  piece  for 
the  sides ;  then  cement  the  bottom  to  the 
sides  with  egg,  bringing  the  former 
rather  farther  out,  and  pinching  both  to- 
gether; put  egg  between  the  edges  of 
the  paste  to  make  it  adhere  at  the  sides. 
Fill  the  pie,  put  on  the  cover,  and  pinch 
it  and  the  side  crust  together.  The 
same  mode  of  uniting  the  paste  is  to  be 
observed  if  the  sides  are  pressed  into  a 
tin  form,  in  which  the  paste  must  be 
baked,  after  it  shall  be  filled  and  cov- 
ered :  *  the  tin  should  be  buttered,  and 
carefully  taken  off  when  done  enough ; 
and  as  the  form  usually  makes  the  sides 
of  a  lighter  color  than  is  proper,  the  pie 
should  be  put  into  the  oven  again  for  one 
quarter  of  an  hour. 

For  Venison  Pasty  or  Perigord  Pie. — 
To  one  quarter  of  a  peck  of  fine  flour 
use  two  and  a  half  pounds  of  butter  and 
four  eggs :  mix  into  paste  with  warm 
water,  and  work  it  smooth  and  to  a  good 
consistence.  Put  a  paste  round  the  in- 
side, but  not  to  the  bottom  of  the  dish  j 


*  In  lining  a  tin  form,  put  in  the  sides  first,  hav- 
ing cut  the  paste  rather  deeper  than  the  tin,  so  as  to 
allow  for  its  lying  a^  little  on  the  bottom,  and  that 
no  joint  may  appear ;  then  cut  a  piece  sufficiently 
large  to  cover  the  whole  bottom. 


408 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


and  let  the  cover  be  pretty  thick,  to  bear 
the  long  continuance  in  the  oven. 

1178.— PUFF  PASTE  FOE  PATTIES  OE  FIEST 
COUESE  DISHES. 

One  pound  of  butter  salt  or  fresh,  and 
one  pound  of  flour  will  make  a  good 
dish  of  patty  cases,  or  a  large  case  for  a 
vol-au-vent,  and  the  remainder  into  a 
good  dish  of  second  course  pastry. 

Put  your  flour  upon  your  board,  work 
finely  in  with  your  hands  lightly  a  quar- 
ter of  the  butter,  then  add  water  suffi- 
cient to  make  it  the  stiffness  or  softness 
of  the  remaining  butter ;  each  should  be 
the  same  substance  ;  work  it  up  smooth, 
then  roll  it  out  longways  half  an  inch 
thick ;  place  the  remainder  of  the  butter 
cut  in  slices  half  way  on  the  paste  ;  dust 
flour  lightly  over  it,  and  double  it  up, 
press  it  down  with  your  rolling-pin,  let 
it  lie  a  few  minutes,  then  roll  it  three 
times  thinner  each  time,  letting  it  lie  a 
few  minutes  between  each  roll,  keep  it 
free  from  sticking  to  the  board  or  rolling- 
pin.  This  paste  is  ready  for  patty  cases 
or  vol-au-vent,  or  meat  pies. 

1179.— PUFF  PASTE. 

To  obtain  this  in  perfection  much  will 
depend  on  the  quality  of  the  butter 
used,  and  on  its  being  rolled  out  or 
turned  a  sufficient  number  of  times,  so 
that  the  butter  may  be  mixed  with  the 
paste  in  minute  layers.  Salt  butter  will 
make  as  good,  if  not  better  paste  than 
fresh.  When  salt  butter  is  used,  it 
should  be  broken  into  small  pieces,  and 
put  into  a  pan  or  pail  of  clean  cold 
water  ;  well  work  or  squeeze  it  between 
the  hands  in  the  water,  which  will  de- 
prive it  of  the  greatest  portion  of  the 
salt  it  contains  ;  take  it  from  the  water 
and  put  it  on  a  cloth,  and  mould  or  work 
it  well,  in  the  same  manner  as  you  would 
a  piece  of  paste ;  when  the  water  is  all 
worked  out,  and  the  bbtter  appears  dry 
and  firm,  make  it  in  a  roll  and  put  it  in 


a  cold  place  for  use.  Fresh  butter 
should  be  moulded  in  the  same  manner 
as  directed  for  salt,  but  it  does  not  re- 
quire being  first  put  into  water.  In 
summer  a  few  pieces  of  ice  may  be  put 
into  the  water  with  the  butter,  to  harden 
it. 


Weigh  one  pound  of  butter  and  one 
pound  of  sifted  flour.  Take  two  ounces 
of  the  butter  and  rub  in  with  the  flour ; 
make  a  hole  in  the  middle,  in  which  put 
a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  pour  in  suffi- 
cient cold  water  to  make  it  into  a  paste 
of  nearly  the  same  consistence  as  the 
butter.  This  should  be  more  particularly 
observed  in  summer,  as  the  heat  then 
causes  the  butter  to  become  very  soft 
during  the  rolling  of  the  paste,  and  to 
break  through  the  surface,  unless  the 
dough  is  made  of  considerably  less  con- 
sistence in  the  first  place,  in  order  to  al- 
low for  this.  To  each  pound  allow  two 
eggs,  well-beaten  and  mixed  with  the 
water. 

Mix  the  dough  into  a  clear,  smooth 
paste,  without  toughness,  by  rubbing  it 
well  with  the  heel  of  the  right  hand  on 
the  board  until  it  has  acquired  a  clear, 
smooth,  shining  appearance ;  mould  it 
into  a  round  lump,  then  press  all  the 
moisture  from  the  remainder  of  the  but- 
ter, and  form  it  into  a  ball,  taking  care 
not  to  soften  it ;  put  this  upon  the  paste 
and  press  it  down,  then  enclose  it  with 
the  paste  like  an  apple-dumpling ;  flour 
the  marble  well  and  roll  it  out ;  this  is 
called  the  "  first  turn  ;  "  then  fold  it  in 
three,  and  roll  it  out  again,  which  will  be 
a  second  turn  ;  now  fold  it  again  in  the 
same  manner,  and  put  it  in  a  cold  place, 
if  convenient  on  ice,  covered  with  a  damp 


PASTE. 


409 


cloth,  until  it  is  required  to  be  rolled  out 
for  use.  Experience  alone  can  deter- 
mine when  the  paste  has  been  sufficiently 
rolled. 

1180.— VEKY  LIGHT  PASTE. 

Mix  the  flour  and  water  together,  roll 
the  paste  out,  and  lay  bits  of  butter 
upon  it.  Then  beat  up  the  white  of  an 
egg,  and  brush  it  all  over  the  paste  be- 
fore it  is  folded ;  repeat  this  when  rolling 
out,  and  adding  the  butter  each  time  till 
the  whole  of  the  white  of  egg  is  used. 
It  will  make  the  paste  very  flaky. 

1181.— TEANSPAEENT  CEUST  FOE  TAETS. 

Beat  an  egg,  till  it  be  quite  thin ;  have 
ready  twelve  ounces  of  the  purest,  well- 
washed  butter,  without  salt,  melted  with- 
out being  oiled ;  and  when  cool  mix  the 
egg  with  it,  and  stir  it  into  one  pound  of 
fine  flour  well  dried.  Make  the  paste 
very  thin  ;  line  the  pattypans  as  quickly 
as  you  can,  and.  when  putting  the  tarts 
into  the  oven,  brush  them  over  with 
water,  and  sift  sugar  on  them.  If  they 
are  baked  in  a  lightly  heated  oven,  they 
will  look  beautiful. 

1182.— BEIOCHE  PASTE. 

This  paste  is  essential  in  many  of  the 
finer  kinds  of  cookery,  and,  though 
rather  troublesome  to  make,  will  repay 
the  pains  bestowed,  since,  with  a  small 
addition  of  sauce,  it  will  afford  an  ex- 
cellent side-dish  in  itself,  and  it  will  enter 
into  the  composition  of,  and  improve,  all 
the  more  elaborate  entrees.  Take  seven 
fresh  eggs  two  pounds  of  flour  dried  and 
warmed  at  the  fire,  and  one  pound  of 
fresh  butter.  Take  half  a  pound  of  this 
flour,  and  pour  into  the  middle  of  it  a 
dessert-spoonful  of  yeast,  which  has  been 
prepared  by  pouring  water  over  it,  stir- 
ring it,  and  allowing  it  to  stand  to  settle, 
and  then  draining  the  water  off.  It  is 
the  sediment  which  must  be  employed. 
Pour  a  little  warm  water  over  the  yeast. 


and  mix  the  paste  up  with  it,  which 
forms  the  leaven ;  flour  the  pan,  lay  the 
leaven  in  it  before  the  fire  to  rise,  and 
slit  it  on  the  top.  As  soon  as  the  paste 
has  risen,  proceed  thus  : — Make  a  hole  in 
the  middle  of  the  remaining  flour,  put 
into  it  a  little  salt,  about  a  saltspoonful, 
the  same  quantity  of  powdered  sugar, 
to  take  off  any  bitter  taste  in  the  yeast, 
and  a  little  water  to  melt  it ;  the  butter 
broken  into  small  pieces,  and  the  eggs : 
work  it  all  well  together,  and  knead  it 
thoroughly,  spreading  it  out  and  working 
it  well :  then  spread  it  out  entirely,  and 
lay  the  yeast  or  leavened  paste  all  over 
it,  taking  the  greatest  care  in  kneading 
and  shifting  the  paste  about  to  mix  both 
well  together.  When  completed,  flour  a 
towel,  wrap  the  paste  up  in  it.  and  put  it 
into  a  pan ;  if  in  cold  weather  in  a  warm 
situation,  and  if  in  hot  weather  in  a  cold 
one.  It  is  best  made  a  day  before  it  is 
wanted.  Very  minute  pieces,  shaped  in 
any  way,  add  greatly  to  the  excellence 
of  soup,  to  be  boiled  with  it,  or  stewed 
in  the  gravy  of  a  vol-au-vent,  and  strewed 
over  the  top.  It  is  cut  into  shapes  also, 
and  fried  as  the  accompaniment  of  brais- 
ed dishes  of  every  kind.  It  is  an  ex- 
quisite case  for  lobster  and  other  patties, 
or,  brushed  over  with  egg,  may  be  fried 
in  shapes  for  a  side-dish :  or  it  may  be 
boiled  in  cups,  six  in  a  dish,  and  served 
up  with  asparagus  cut  small  and  heaped 
upon  the  top,  and  a  white  sauce  round. 
In  fact,  a  clever  cook,  by  employing  dif- 
ferent flavoring  ingredients,  either  sweet 
or  savory,  may  make  endless  dishes  of 
brioche.  It  should  not,  however,  predom- 
inate ;  and,  therefore,  it  is  best  only  to 
make  a  small  quantity  at  a  time,  where 
the  consumption  of  the  family  is  not  great. 
It  will  not  keep  long. 

1183.— MEAT  PIES,  PATTIES,  &c. 

There  are  few  articles  of  cookery  more 
generally  liked   than    relishing  pies,  if 


410 


THE  PRACTICAL  HOUSEKEEPER. 


properly  made ;  and  they  may  be  formed 
of  a  great  variety  of  things. 

Raised  Pies  may  be  made  of  any  kind 
of  flesh,  fish,  fruit,  or  poultry,  if  baked  in 
a  wall  of  paste  instead  of  a  baking-dish ; 
but  they  are  generally  eaten  cold,  and 
made  «o  large  and  savory  as  to  remain  a 
long  time  before  being  consumed,  for  which 
reason  they  also  bear  the  name  of 
"standing  pies."  In  making  them,  the 
cook  should  always  take  care  to  have  a 
good  stock  that  will  jelly,  made  from  the 
bones  and  trimmings,  to  fill  up  the  pie 
when  it  comes  from  the  oven,  and  also 
that  when  cold  there  may  be  enough 
jelly.  For  want  of  this  precaution  pies 
become  dry  before  they  can  be  eaten. 
The  materials  are  of  course  frequently 
varied,  but  the  mode  of  preparation  is  so 
nearly  the  same  as  net  to  require  the  re- 
cital of  more  than  a  few  prominent  re- 
ceipts. 

1184.— SEASONING   FOE  EAISED  PIES. 

Three  pounds  of  salt  dried  and  pound- 
ed, three  ounces  of  white  pepper,  half 
an  ounce  of  cayenne  pepper,  two  ounces 
of  cloves,  two  ounces  of  allspice,  one 
ounce  of  basil,  one  ounce  of  marjoram, 
one  ounce  of  thyme,  one  ounce  of  bay- 
leaf,  one  ounce  of  nutmeg,  one  "Cunce  and 
a  half  of  mace. 

Pound  the  spices  and  herbs  by  them- 
selves and  sift  through  a  fine  sieve ;  then 
mix  with  the  salt,  and  put  away  in  a 
stoppered  bottle :  three-quarters  of  an 
ounce  is  sufficient  for  one  pound  of  farce, 
and  half  an  ounce  for  one  pound  of  boned 
game. 

1185.-JELLY  FOE  MEAT  OE  EAISED  PIES, 

Take  a  quart  of  veal  gravy,  dissolve 
two  ounces  of  isinglass  in  a  little  of  it 
add  the  remainder  with  a  quarter  of  a 
pint  of  tarragon  vinegar ;  boil  all  together 
for  a  quarter  of  an  hour.     Clarify  it  with 
the    whites  of  six    eggs,   then  pass  i 
through  a  bag. 


1186.— PIE  EAISED  HOT,  EUSSIAN. 

Take  a  salmon  and  a  liver,  cut  them 
nto  scollops,  and  simmer  both,  but  sep- 
arately, in  some  butter,  with  shred 
parsley,  mushrooms,  truffles,  shalots, 
,  pepper,  nutmeg ;  mince  the  yolks  of 
a  dozen  hard  eggs.  Make  a  raised  crust 
n  l^ie  usual  manner,  put  in  a  layer  of 
rice  previously  boiled  in  chicken  broth, 
but  cold,  as  should  be  all  the  materials  ; 
on  this  lay  some  of  the  scollops  .of  sal- 
mon, on  which  strew  a  layer  of  egg,  then 
a  layer  of  liver,  strew  the  egg,  then  the 
salmon  again,  and  so  on  till  yom-  pie  is 
full  j  then  pour  in  the  butter  and  herbs, 
cover  the  whole  with  rice,  and  finish  the 
pie  according  to  the  above  directions. 

118T.— PIE  EAISED,  TO  BE  SEEVED  HOT. 

Make  a  stiff  paste  as  directed  for  raised 
pies,  which  mix  with  warm  water  j  when 
well  mixed  together  roll  it  out  thin,  cut 
a  piece  out  for  the  bottom  and  two  for 
the  sides,  according  to  the  shape  of  the 
dish ;  egg  the  edges  you  intend  to  join, 
and  press  them  well  together,  so  that  the 
joining  may  not  be  seen  ;  shape  it,  gar- 
nish it  with  leaves  or  festoons,  according 
to  your  taste,  fill  it  nearly  to  the  top 
with  bran,  egg  it,  and  let  it  be  baked  in 
a  moderate  oven ;  when  done  of  a  light 
color  turn  out  the  bran,  and  set  it  ready 
for  what  you  intend  to  put  in,  which  may 
be  cutlets  of  mutton  stewed  with  vege- 
tables, partridge  farced  with  a  brown 
sauce,  chickens  cut  up,  a  ragout  in  a 
brown  sauce,  or  stewed  eels. 

1188. -EAISED  PIE  OF  FOWLS.    (Soyer.) 

Make  the  paste  and  forcemeat,  bone  a 
young  fowl,  which  lay  flat  upon  a  clean 
cloth,  breast  downwards;  season  the  in- 
terior with  a  little  pepper,  salt,  and  chop- 
ped onions ;  spread  a  layer  of  forcemeat 
over,  half  an  inch  in  thickness ;  have  ten  * 
pieces  of  veal,  of  the  thickness  of  your 
finger,  and  the  same  length  as  the  fowl, 


1EAT  PIES. 


411 


and  the  same  number  of  pieces  of  fat 
bacon,  lay  half  of  the  veal  and  bacon  al- 
ternately upon  the  fowl,  well  seasoned 
with  pepper  and  salt,  cover  over  with 
more  forcemeat,  then  another  layer  of 
veal  and  ham,  cover  with  more  forcemeat ; 
then  roll  the  fowl  over,  making  the  skin 
meet  at  the  back ;  you  have  previously 
lined  a  raised  pie  mould  with  paste,  then 
line  the  pie  with  forcemeat,  half  an  inch 
in  thickness,  lay  in  the  fowl,  sprinkle  a 
little  pepper  and  salt  over,  cover  with 
the  remainder  of  the  forcemeat,  to  form 
a  dome,  place  a  pat  of  butter  and  two 
bay-leaves  upon  the  top,  and  bake ; 
when  done,  pour  in  a  gill  of  gravy  made 
from  the  bones  of  the  fowl  j  serve  cold. 

1189.— EAISED  PIE  OF  PHEASANT. 

Proceed  precisely  as  for  the  pie  of  fowl, 
but  of  course  using  a  pheasant ;  an  old 
one  would  answer  the  purpose  if  kept 
long  enough,  but  all  the'  sinews  of  the 
legs  must  be  taken  out  in  boning  it ;  the 
fillets  of  the  breast  also,  being  very  thick, 
may  be  partly  cut  out  and  used  with  the 
veal  for  the  interior  ;  if  in  a  situation  to 
obtain  rabbits,  the  fillets  of  them  might 
be  used  instead  of  veal  for  the  interior, 
and  the  legs  for  forcemeat. 

For  gravy,  break  up  the  bones  of  the 
birds,  which  put  into  a  stewpan  with  a 
glass  of  sherry,  an  onion,  a  few  sprigs  of 
thyme,  parsley,  and  a  bay-leaf  j  let  it 
simmer  a  minute  over  the  fire,  then  add 
a  pint  of  broth  and  a  little  isinglass  or 
gelatine,  let  the  whole  simmer  for  an 
hour,  giving  it  a  nice  brown  color,  when 
pass  it  through  a  sieve  into  a  small  stew- 
pan,  place  it  again  upon  the  fire,  skim  off 
all  the  fat,  and  reduce  it  to  half  a  pint, 
and  when  the  pie  is  baked,  pour  it  in, 
shaking  the  pie  a  little  to  mix  well; 
serve  When  cold. 

Pies  of  grouse,  partridges,  moor  fowls, 
&c.,  are  made  precisely  in  the  same  man- 
ner, using  one  or  more  according  to  the 


size  you  wish  to  make  your  pie.  The 
fillets  of  hares  are  likewise  excellent  in 
pies,  whilst  the  legs  might  be  jugged  or 
converted  into  soup. 

Capons,  poulards,  green  geese,  or  duck- 
lings, may  also  be  served  in  a  pie,  (pro- 
ceeding as  directed  for  fowls),,  by  manag- 
ing the  size  of  the  pie,  and  seasoning  in 
proportion. 

Pigeon  pie  can  also  be  made  in  the 
same  way,  but  then  the  meat  with  which 
the  interior  of  the  birds  are  filled  must 
be  cut  much  smaller,  and  requires  less 
time  in  cooking. 

1190.— HOT  LAMB  PIE  (raised.) 

To  make  this  an  oval,  a  tin  or  copper 
pie  mould  would  be  required,  which  you 
would  choose  of  a  size  most  generally 
useful.  Butter  the  interior  of  the 
mould,  which  stand  upon  a  baking  sheet, 
then  make  the  following  paste :  put  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  and  the 
same  of  chopped  suet  into  a  stewpan, 
with  three-quarters  of  a  pint  of  water, 
or  more  if  required,  and  let  the  whole 
boil  together  one  minute,  when  strain  it 
through  a  sieve  into  a  basin  containing 
two  pounds  of  flour,  mixing  it  first  with 
a  spoon,  and  when  cool  enough  with  the 
hand,  until  forming  a  smooth  paste ; 
when  partly  cold  roll  it  out  into  a  sheet 
half  an  inch  in  thickness,  with  which  line 
the  mould,  pressing  the  paste  evenly  at 
all  parts ;  have  ready  cut  sufficient  small 
lamb  chops  from  the  loin,  neatly  cut 
away  the  bones,  and  lay  them  round  the 
interior  of  the  pie  alternately  with  slices 
of  raw  potatoes  (a  quarter  of  an  inch  in 
thickness),  season  rather  highly  as  you 
procoed,  with  pepper,  salt,  chopped  on- 
ions, and  parsley:  make  a  neat  cover 
with  the  trimmings  of  the  paste,  and 
bake  it  rather  better  than  two  hours  in 
a  moderate  oven ;  when  done  lift  the 
cover,  pour  out  as  much  of  the  fat  as 
possible,  add  a  little  gravy,  and  serve. 


412 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


1191.— OTHER  VARIOUS  PIES. 

Hot  raised  pies  may  also  be  made  with 
mutton  by  following  the  above  directions. 
They  are  also  very  good  made  with  fillet 
of  beef  cut  into  thin  slices  of  the  size  of 
the  lamb  chops,  or  of  rump  steak,  by 
laying  a  piece  at  the  bottom,  seasoning 
and  filling  alternately  with  potatoes  and 
the  meat ;  teal  and  ham  pies  are  also  ex- 
cellent, but  the  potatoes  in  them  had 
better  be  omitted,  the  veal,  however,  sea- 
soned and  dipped  in  flour.  Pies  may 
also  be  made  with  veal  sweetbread  and 
ham,  but  then  about  three  parts  of  a 
pint  of  white  sauce  should  be  poured  in 
after  the  pie  is  baked.  Fowls  or  rabbits 
may  likewise  be  cut  into  joints,  and  put 
into  a  stewpan,  with  a  piece  of  butter, 
previously  well  seasoning  them  with 
pepper,  salt,  and  chopped  eschalots ;  cover 
the  stewpan  close,  and  leave  it  twenty 
minutes  over  a  slow  fire,  add  a  pint  of 
white  sauce,  and  simmer  ten  minutes 
longer ;  when  cold  build  them  up  in  the 
interior  of  the  pie,  which  cover  and  bake 
an  hour  in  a  warm  oven.  Pies  of  the 
above  description  can  of  course  be  made 
of  any  size,  either  large  enough  for  a 
family  meal,  or  very  small  and  round, 
for  a  corner  dish  for  a  dinner  party  j 
most  people  who  are  in  the  habit  of  mak- 
ing them,  keep  two  different-sized  moulds 
for  the  purpose. 

1192.-RUMP8TEAK  PIE. 

Procure  two  pounds  of  rumpsteaks, 
which  cut  into  slices  half  an  inch  thick, 
and  season  well  with  pepper  and  salt ; 
dip  each  piece  into  flour,  and  lay  them  in 
a  small  pie-dish,  finishing  the  top  in  the 
form  of  a  dome ;  add  a  wineglassful  of 
water,  then  have  ready  half  a  {found 
of  plain  paste,  cut  off  a  small  piece, 
which  roll  into  a  band,  and  lay  round 
the  edge  of  the  dish,  having  previously 
wetted  it  with  a  paste-brush  dipped  in 
water,  then  roll  out  the  remainder  of  the 
paste  to  about  the  size  of  the  dish,  damp 


the  band  of  paste  upon  the  dish,  and  lay 
the  other  piece  over,  make  a  hole  with  a 
knife  at  the  top,  press  the  edges  evenly 
down  with  your  thumbs,  trim  the  pie 
round  with  a  knife,  egg  over  the  top 
with  a  paste-brush,  and  ornament  it  with 
the  trimmings  of  the  paste,  according  to 
fancy ;  bake  it  rather  better  than  an  hour 
in  a  moderate  oven,  and  serve  either  hot 
or  cold. 

1193.— VEAL  AND  HAM  PIE. 

Cut  about  a  pound  and  a  half  of  veal 
into  thin  slices,  as  also  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  cooked  ham ;  season  the  veal 
rather  highly  with  white  pepper  and 
salt,  with  which  cover  the  bottom  of  the 
dish,  then  lay  over  a  few  slices  of  ham, 
then  the  remainder  of  the  veal,  finishing 
with  the  remainder  of  the  ham,  add  a 
wine-glassful  of  water,  and  cover  and 
bake  as  directed  for  beef-steak  pie :  a 
bay-leaf  will  be  an  improvement. 

1194— MUTTON  PIE. 

Procure  the  chumps  of  three  loins  of 
mutton,  from  which  cut  the  meat  in 
moderately  thin  slices,  put  a  layer  at  the 
bottom  of  the  dish,  which  season  well 
with  chopped  parsley,  eschalots,  pepper, 
and  salt ;  then  put  a  layer  of  slices  of 
raw  potatoes  and  again  a  layer  of  mutton, 
seasoning  as  before,  proceeding  thus  to 
the  top,  which  form  in  a  dome,  finishing 
with  mutton,  cover  with  paste,  and  bake 
as  direcred  for  rumpsteak  pie. 

1195.— PATti  I>E  FOIES  GRAS. 

[This  receipt  is  famished  by  Mr.  DEL- 
MONICO,  expressly  for  this  work.] 

Prepare  a  stuffing  of  fresh  pork,  a 
pound  of  lean  to  a  pound  and  a  half  of 
fat ;  mince  and  chop  it :  add  your  pre- 
paration of  livers  in  tho  same  manner  as 
with  truffles,  seasoning  the  mixture  with 
salt,  pepper,  spices,  and  aromatic  herbs 
bruised  and  passed  through  a  sieve. 
Have  in  readiness  two  fine,  fat  livers, 


MKAT   PIES. 


413 


well  cleaned.  Make  ready  a  pie  of  two 
and  a  half  pounds  of  paste :  surround 
this  pie  with  thin  slices  of  fat,  and,  in 
the  bottom,  place  some  stuffing :  season 
the  livers,  cover  them  with  stuffing  and 
truffles,  and  place  them  in  your  pie  or 
dish,  which  fill  up  with  stuffing  and  truf- 
fles, placing  on  the  top  a  piece  of  fresh 
butter.  Cover  thi»  with  slices  of  fat 
and  over  it  place  a  laurel-leaf.  Moisten 
the  edge  of  the  pie  and  cover  it  with  a 
crust  of  paste :  fasten  this  on  well,  cut  off 
the  edges  equally  and  crimp  or  decorate 
it.  Make  a  covering  of  puff  paste,  and, 
in  the  middle,  make  a  hole  which  is  call- 
ed the  chimney.  Wash  it  over  with 
eggs  and  let  it  bake  in  an  evenly-heated 
oven,  for  three  and  a  half  hours.  When 
cold,  fill  it  with  good  meat-jelly. 

.  1196.— LAMB  PIE. 

Cut  a  small  neck  of  lamb  into  chops, 
which  must  not  be  too  fat.  season  them 
lightly  with  pepper  and  salt,  and  lay 
them  in  your  pie-dish,  with  a  few  new 
potatoes  in  slices,  pour  in  a  little  water, 
then  cover  and  bake  as  directed  for 
rumpsteak  pie. 

1197.— CHICKEN  PIE. 

Cut  up  a  nice  plump  chicken  into 
joints,  which  lay  upon  a  dish,  and  season 
lightly  with  chopped  parsley,  white  pep- 
per, and  salt,  then  lay  the  back,  cut  into 
three  pieces,  at  the  bottom  of  a  pie-dish 
with  the  two  legs  on  either  side ;  have 
half  a  pound  of  cooked  ham  or  bacon  in 
slices,  a  layer  of  which  cover  over,  then 
lay  in  the  two  wings,  and  over  them  the 
breast,  cut  into  two  pieces,  which,  with 
the  remainder  of  the  ham  or  bacon,  form 
into  a  dome  in  the  middle,  pour  half  a 
pint  of  white  sauce  over,  if  handy,  or  a 
little  broth  or  water,  cover  with  paste, 
and  bake  as  directed  for  the  last.  If  no 
white  sauce,  dip  each  piece  lightly  in 
flour. 

1198.— GIBLET  PIE. 

When  the    giblets  have  been  taken 


from  the  goose,  place  them  with  the  ex- 
ception of  the  liver,  but  with  the  pinions, 
feet,  head,  and  neck,  into  boiling  water 
to  blanch;  remove  the  skin  from  the 
feet  and  beak  ;  put  into  a  stewpan  a  piece 
of  butter  the  size  of  a  walnut,  one  onion 
cut  in  slices,  a  bay-leaf,  a  little  salt, 
pepper,  and  sugar :  place  it  on  the  fire 
until  the  onion  is  brown;  place  in  the 
giblets  with  the  head  cut  in  two,  let  them 
remain  on  the  fire  for  about  three  minutes, 
stirring  them  round,  then  add  one  quart 
of  boiling  water,  and  let  them  stew  gent- 
ly for  two  hours,  remove  from  the  fire, 
and  let  them  get  cold.  Take  a  pie-dish 
and  place  a  piece  of  steak  on  the  bottom, 
then  place  over  that  the  giblets  with  the 
liver,  and  steak  again  over  them,  add  the 
liquor  the  giblets  were  stewed  in,  season 
and  cover  with  half  puff  paste. 

1199.— BABBIT  PIE. 

Cut  a  nice  rabbit  into  joints,  splitting 
the  head  in  halves,  and  lay  them  in  luke- 
warm water  half  an  hour  to  disgorge, 
then  dry  them  upon  a  cloth,  season  well 
with  pepper,  salt,  chopped  eshalots,  pars- 
ley, two  bay-leaves,  and  a  spoonful  of 
flour ;  have  also  three-quarters  of  a  pound 
of  uncooked  streaked  bacon,  cut  into 
square  pieces  the  size  of  walnuts,  build 
up  the  pieces  of  rabbit  and  bacon  to- 
gether, in  a  pie  dish,  commencing  with 
the  worst  pieces,  and  forming  a  dome ; 
pour  in  a  little  water,  cover  with  paste, 
and  bake  as  directed  for  rumpsteak  pie. 

1200.— PIGEON  PIE; 

Line  the  bottom  of  a  pie-dish  with  a 
pound  of  rumpsteak,  cut  into  slices  not 
too  thin,  seasoned  with  a  little  salt, 
pepper,  and  cayenne,  and  dipped  into 
flour ;  have  ready  picked  and  drawn  a 
couple  of  pigeons,  cut  off  the  feet,  turn 
the  legs  in,  fold  up  the  pinions  of  ,the 
wings,  and  lay  them  breast  to  breast  upon 
the  meat,  have  the  yolks  of  four  hard 
boiled  eggs,  which  put  at  the  sides. 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


sprinkle  a  little  pepper  and  salt  over  the 
pigeons,  lay  a  bay-leaf  upon  the  top,  pour 
in  a  little  water,  cover  with  paste,  stick 
the  feet  in  the  top,  and  bake  as  directed 
for  the  last.  The  pigeons  may  be  stuffed 
with  a  little  veal  stuffing,  if  handy. 

1201.-PAETKIDGE  PIE. 

Line  the  bottom  of  a  pie-dish  with 
slices  of  veal,  cut  moderately  thick,  and 
rather  lightly  seasoned  with  white 
pepper  and  salt;  have  ready  picked, 
drawn,  and  trussed,  a  couple  of.  young 
partridges,  pour  one  glass  of  sherry  over 
the  veal,  one  of  water,  and  lay  in  the 
partridges  breast  to  breast,  laying  a  piece 
of  fat  bacon  over  each,  cover  with  paste, 
sticking  the  feet  of  the  partridges  in  the 
top  of  the  pie,  and  bake  as  before. 

1202.— GKOUSE  PIE. 

Koast,  very  underdone,  a  couple  of  nice 
plump  grouse ;  when  cold,  cut  into  joints, 
having  the  two  wings,  two  legs,  and  the 
breasts  in  two  pieces  each,  season  them 
lightly,  and  lay  them  in  a  pie-dish,  build- 
ing them  to  form  a  dome,  then  break  up 
the  back-bone  and  other  trimmings,  which 
put  into  a  stewpan,  with  a  glass  of  sherry, 
a  bay-leaf,  an  onion  in  slices,  a  few  sprigs 
of  parsley,  three  or  four  whole  allspice, 
set  the  stewpan  over  the  fire  a  few  min- 
utes until  the  wine  boils,  when  add  half 
a  pint  of  brown  sauce,  and  half  a  pint  of 
broth,  stir  it  over  a  fire  until  again  re- 
duced to  half  a  pint,  strain  it  through  a 
sieve,  over  the  grouse ;  when  quite  cold 
cover  with  paste,  as  directed  for  rump- 
steak  pie,  and  bake  in  a  very  hot  oven  ; 
about  half  an  hour  would  be  sufficient, 
as  the  paste  requires  to  be  laid  on  thinner, 
the  contents  of  the  pie  having  been  pre- 
viously cooked. 

1203.— POT  PIE. 

Two  pounds  of  veal  meat,  two  pounds 
of  flour,  one-quarter  of  a  pound  of  lard 


or  butter,  half  a  dozen  potatoes,  one- 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  pickled  pork,  cut 
into  small  pieces.  Make  the  paste  very 
soft,  and  roll  it  very  thin ;  put  in  the  po- 
tatoes and  meat,  then  the  paste,  layer 
after  layer,  with  cold  water  enough  to 
cover  it ;  boil  it  half  an  hour  slowly. 

1204.— -E^L  PIE. 

Skin  and  cleanse  three  good-sized 
eels,  which  cut  into  pieces  about  two 
inches  in  length,  put  a  good-sized  bunch 
of  parsley,  thyme,  and  tt^ree  bay-leaves, 
all  tied  together,  into  a  stewpan,  with 
an  onion,  into  which  }^ou  have  stuck  four 
cloves,  a  glass  of  port-wine,  and  a  pint  of 
broth,  lay  in  the  pieces  of  eels,  and  set 
them  upon  the  fire  to  simmer  for  ten 
minutes,  take  them  out,  laying  them  upon 
a  cloth  to  drain,  skim  off  all  the  fat  from 
the  stock  the  eels  were  cooked  in,  to 
which  add  rather  more  than  half  a  pint 
of  bi*bwn  sauce,  let  the  whole  boil  until 
reduced  to  three  parts  of  a  pint,  when 
dress  the  pieces  of  eels  up  in  a  pie-dish, 
strain  the  sauce  over  through  a  sieve, 
and  when  cold,  cover  with  paste,  as  di- 
rected for  rumpsteak  pie,  and  bake  about 
an  hour  in  a  moderate  oven ;  serve  it  hot. 
If  for  a  small  pie  they  may  be  used  raw, 
and  season  accordingly,  after  having  roll- 
ed each  piece  in  flour. 

1205.— BEEFSTEAK  PUDDING. 

Put  a  pound  of  flour  upon  a  dresser, 
with  which  mix  half  a  pound  of  beef 
suet,  very  finely  chopped,  make  a  hole  in 
the  middle,  into  which  put  a  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  and  sufficient  water  to  form  a 
rather  stiffish  paste,  mix  it  well  together, 
using  a  little  more  flour  to  dry  it  and 
prevent  its  sticking  ;  then  lightly  butter 
the  interior  of  a  round-bottomed  pudding 
basin,  roll  out  two-thirds  of  the  paste  to 
half  an  inch  in  thickness,  with  which  line 
the  basin ;  have  ready  cut  into  slices, 
about  the  size  of  the  palm  of  the  hand, 


MEAT   PUDDINGS. 


415 


and  a  quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness, 
two  pounds  of  rutnpsteak  with  a  little  of 
the  fat  included ;  lay  them  upon  a  dish, 
season  with  two  teaspoonfuls  of  salt 
and  one  of  black  pepper,  sprinkle  a  little 
flour  over,  move  them  about  a  little  un- 
til each  piece  is  well  covered  with  flour 
and  seasoning  ;  then  lay  them  within  the 
paste,  also  putting  in  whatever  seasoning 
may  remain  upon  the  dish,  (some  add 
two  dozen  of  oysters,  blanched  and 
bearded,  which  is  excellent,)  pour  a  gill 
of  water  over,  moistening  the  edges  of 
the  paste  ;  then  roll  out  the  remainder  of 
the  paste  to  form  a  lid,  which  place  over, 
pressing  it  down  with  the  thumb,  then 
tie  the  basin  in  a  pudding-cloth,  and  put 
into  a  saucepan,  containing  about  a  gallon 
of  boiling  water,  and  keep  continually 
boiling  for  nearly  two  hours,  adding  a 
little  more  water  occasionally  to  keep 
up  the  quantity ;  then  take  it  up,  untie 
the  cloth,  run  a  sharp-pointed  knife  into 
the  pudding,  and  if  the  meat  feels  tender 
it  is  done  (if  not,  it  will  require  more 
boiling),  turn  it  over  upon  your  dish,  lift 
the  basin  carefully  from  it,  and  serve, 
without  opening  the  pudding  to  add 
gravy,  as  many  persons  do,  for  a  pudding 
made  as  above  ought  to  be  full  of  gravy 
when  cut  at  table. 

1206.— MUTTON  PUDDING. 

Line  a  pudding-basin  with  paste,  as 
directed  in  the  last ;  then  have  ready  cut 
into  slices  the  meat  from  two  loin-chumps 
of  mutton,  which  Jay  upon  a  dish,  and 
season  with  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped 
onions,  the  same  of  chopped  parsley, 
rather  more  than  half  that  quantity  of 
black  pepper,  and  salt  in  proportion; 
then  put  a  layer  of  meat  into  the  pudding, 
then  a  layer  of  raw  potatoes  cut  into 
slices ;  proceeding  thus  until  you  have 
filled  it  up,  but  finishing  with  meat, 
cover  it  up  as  hi  the  last,  likewise  tie  it 
in  a  napkin,  and  boil,  but  rither  better 


than  two  hours  would  be  sufficient ;  serve 
as  before  directed. 

1207.— LAMB  PUDDING. 

If  convenient,  procure  the  entire  ribs 
of  a  lamb,  sawing  off  the  breast  almost 
close  to  the  lean  part  of  the  neck; 
the  breast  may  be  cooked;  cut  the 
neck  into  rather  thin  cutlets,  which 
season  lightly  with  white  pepper,  salt, 
and  a  little  chopped  parsley  and  onions ; 
you  have  previously  lined  a  pudding- 
basin  with  paste  as  before,  fill  it  with 
the  meat  thus  prepared,  intermixing 
a  few  new  potatoes  cut  in-  slices,  finish 
the  pudding,  boil,  and  serve  as  before  <Ji- 
rected. 

1208.— TEAL  PUDDING. 

Cut  two  pounds  of  veal  from  any  part 
of  the  leg  into  slices,  about  the  size  of 
the  palm  of  the  hand,  and  a  quarter  of 
an  inch  in  thickness,  put  two  ounces  of 
butter  into  a  frying-pan,  and  when  melt- 
ed lay  in  the  veal,  and  a  few  slices  of 
streaked  bacon,  season  the  whole  with 
pepper  and  a  little  salt,  add  one  bay-leaf, 
and  a  few  sprigs  of  thyme;  place  the 
pan  over  a  slow  fire,  saute  the  veal  gent- « 
ly  tor.  a  quarter  of  an  hour  ;  then  take  it 
from  theifire,  and  leave  it  in  the  pan  un- 
til cold,  then  have  a  pudding-basin  lined 
with  paste  as  before,  lay  in  the  veal  and 
bacon,  pouring  the  gravy  over,  cover,  and 
boil  as  before,  but  an  hour  would  be  suf- 
ficient. 

1209.— POEK  PUDDING. 

Line  a  pudding-basin  with  paste  as  be- 
fore, and  spread  three-quarters  of  a 
p^und  of  sausage-meat  of  an  equal  thick- 
ness over  the  interior,  have  a  pound  and 
a  half  of  lean  pork,  from  the  leg  if  pos- 
sible, cut  into  square  pieces  of  the  size^ 
of  walnuts,  which  season  rather  highly 
with  pepper,  salt,  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped 
eschalots,  and  half  that  quantity  of  dried 


416 


THE   PEACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPEE. 


sage  ;  put  the  meat  into  the  centre  of  the 
pudding,  cover  over  with  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  more  sausage-meat,  over  which 
put  on  the  cover  of  paste,  tie  it  in  a 
cloth,  and  boil  two  hours  and  a  half,  as 
directed  for  beefsteak  pudding. 

1210— KIDNEY  PUDDING. 

Procure  one  ox  or  eight  mutton  kid- 
neys, which  cut  into  slices  the  thickness 
of  half-a-crown  piece ;  lay  them  upon  a 
dish,  seasoning  well  with  black  pepper 
and  salt,  and  shaking  one  ounce  of  flour 
over ;  mix  all  well  together,  to  absorb 
the  flour  and  seasoning;  then  have  a 
pudding  basin,  lined  as  directed  for  beef- 
steak pudding,  finish,  boil,  and  serve  as 
there  directed. 

A  pudding  made  with  one  pound  of 
steak  and  a  beef  kidney  is  also  very  ex- 
cellent. 

1211.— EABBIT  PUDDING. 

Cut  a  rabbit  up  in  joints,  (splitting  the 
head  in  halves,)  and  lay  them  in  a  basin 
of  lukewarm  water  an  hour  to  disgorge ; 
line  a  pudding-basin  with  paste  as  di- 
rected for  rumpsteak  pudding,  dry  the 
pieces  of  rabbit  upon  a  cloth,  and  lay 
'  them  in  the  pudding  with  half  a  pound 
of  streaked  bacon  cut  into  square  pieces, 
and  seasoning  rather  highly  with  chopped 
eschalots,  salt,  pepper,  and  chopped  pars- 
ley j  cover,  tie  it  in  a  cloth,  boil  it  two 
hours,  and  serve  as  before  directed. 

1212.— OYSTER  PIE. 

As  you  open  the  oysters  separate 
them  from  the  liquor,  which  strain ;  par- 
boil sweetbreads,  and,  cutting  them  in 
slices,  lay  them  and  the  oysters  in  layers  ; 
season  very  lightly  with  salt,  pepper,  and 
mace ;  then  put  half  a  teacupful  of 
liquor,  and  the  same  of  veal  gravy. 
*  Bake  in  a  slow  oven ;  and  before  you 
serve,  put  a  teacupful  of  cream,  a  little 
more  oyster-liquor,  and  a  cup  of  white 
gravy,  all  warmed,  but  not  boiled. 


1218.— OYSTER  PIE.    (English  way.) 

Lay  a  tender  beefsteak  in  the  bottom 
of  a  dish  and  on  it  oysters  and  bread 
crumbs,  with  pepper  and  salt.  Fill  the 
dish  with  layers  of  beafsteak  and  oys- 
ters ;  pour  over  it  the  liquor  of  the  oys- 
ter, cover  with  a  light  paste  and  bake 
twenty  minutes  in  a  quick  oven. 

1214.— YORKSHIRE  PUDDING. 

Put  six  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  into  a 
basin,  with  six  eggs,  a  pinch  of  salt,  and 
a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  milk,  mix  well  to- 
gether with  a  wooden  spoon,  adding  the 
remaining  three-quarters  of  a  pint  of 
milk  by  degrees ;  you  have  previously 
set  a  shallow  tin  dish  under  a  piece  of 
roasting  beef  before  the  fire  ;  an  hour 
before  serving  pour  in  the  batter,  leaving 
it  under  the  meat  until  quite  set  and 
rather  browned  upon  the  top,  when  turn 
the  pudding  over  upon  the  dish  you  in- 
tend serving  it  upon,  and  again  place  it 
before  the  fire  until  the  other  side  is 
rather  browned,  when  it  is  ready  to  serve 
with  the  meat. 

This  pudding  is  very  excellent  baked 
under  a  small  piece  of  beef  of  about  five 
or  six  pounds.  It  is  also  frequently 
baked  beneath  a  shoulder  of  mutton ; 
and  sometimes  in  an  oven  separate,  if  the 
fire  is  not  large  enough,  (with  a  few 
spoonfuls  of  gravy  added). 

1215.-TOAD  IN  A  HOLE. 

Make  a  batter  as  directed  for  the 
Yorkshire  pudding,  but  with  the  addition 
of  a  spoonful  more  flour  and  six  ounces 
of  chopped  beef  suet ;  butter  a  rather 
deep  baking-dish,  into  which  pour  the 
batter,  lay  a  solid  piece  of  lean  gravy 
beef  about  three  pounds,  in  the  centre, 
or  a  beef  skirt,  and  bake  it  an  hour  and 
a  half  in  a  hot  oven. 

Another  method  is  to  cut  up  about 
three  pounds  of  rumpsteaks  into  about 
six  pieces,  and  putting  them  in  the  bat- 


MEAT   PIES. 


417 


ter  at  various  distances  apart,  but  the 
former  method  is  most  common. 

Any  remains  of  cooked  beef,  veal,  mut- 
ton, pork,  roasted  or  boiled,  salt  or  fresh, 
or  game  and  fowl,  cut  in  pieces,  and  sea- 
soned to  taste,  may  be  used  in  this  dish, 
by  adding  it  to  the  batter  when  in  the 
dish. 

1216.— FISH  PUDDING. 
Cut  a  slice  of  salmon  half  an  inch 
thick,  and  weighing  about  one  pound ; 
remove  the  skin  and  bone,  mix  a 'salt- 
spoonful  of  salt,  half  one  of  pepper,  one 
of  finely  chopped  onions  and  parsley,  and 
a  spoonful  of  flour  in  a  plate,  and  rub 
the  fish  with  it  j  make  half  a  pound  of 
flour  into  paste,  roll  it  half  an  inch  thick, 
place  a  pudding-cloth  in  a  middle-size 
basin,  flour  the  cloth,  lay  the  paste  in  it, 
place  in  the  salmon  with  a  little  water 
and  white  wine,  and  a  bay-leaf,  bring  the 
paste  over  so  that  the  edges  meet,  in  the 
middle,  having  reserved  a  small  piece 
which  you  have  rolled  out  to  place  over 
the  joint,  after  having  wetted  it.  Tie  the 
cloth,  but  not  too  tight,  round  the  paste ; 
place  it  in  a  gallon  of  boiling  water,  let 
it  simmer  for  one  hour  and  a  half,  take 
it  out,  remove  the  cloth,  and  serve  it 
with  shrimp  s.auce  over  or  separate. 
Fillets  of  soles,  mackerel,  turbot,  or 
other  fish,  may  be  used. 

1217.— VEAL  PIE  IN  A  DISH. 

First  of  all  get  all  your  ingredients 
ready,  namely,  hop,  parsley,  shalots,  or 
onions,  mushrooms,  pepper  and  salt, 
mint,  four  eggs  boiled  hard,  a  little  good 
second  stock,  now  your  paste.  After 
you  have  made  patties  or  any  first  or 
second  course  pastry,  the,  paste  that  re- 
mains will  do,  be  sure  to  put  an  edging 
of  paste  to  your  dish ;  first  lay  a  layer 
of  lean  and  fat  ham,  or  mild  bacon,  then 
sprinkle  it  over  with  the  prepared  in- 
gredients, then  a  layer  of  veal,  and 
part  of  an  egg,  then  another  layer  of 


ham  and  parsnips  as  before,  and  keep  on 
repeating  it  until  quite  full,  letting  the 
middle  be  much  higher  than  the  sides  • 
put  a  little  drop  of  second  stock  into  it, 
bake  it  in  a  slow  oven ;  be  sure  and  cut 
a  hole  in  the  top,  and  if  you  like  orna- 
ment it  with  leaves  of  paste  ;  after  egg- 
ing the  top,  well  notch  the  edge.  Pour 
some  good  white  stock  into  it  when  done 
and  hot. 

1218.— BEEFSTEAK  PIE. 
Take  some  good  steaks,  beat  them 
with  a  rolling-pin,  season  them  with  pep- 
per and  salt ;  fill  a  dish  with  them,  add- 
ing as  much  water  as  will  half  fill  it, 
then  cover  it  with  a  good  crust,  and  bake 
it  well. 

1219.— COLD  VEAL  OR  CHICKEN  PIE. 

Lay  a  crust  into  a  shallow  tart  dish, 
and  fill  it  with  the  following  mixture  :— 
shred  cold  veal  or  fowl,  and  half  the 
quantity  of  ham,  mostly  lean,  put  to  it 
a  little  cream,  season  with  white  and 
cayenne  pepper,  salt,  a  little  nutmeg,  and 
a  small  piece  of  shalot,  chopped  as  fine 
as  possible :  cover  \rith  crust,  and  turn 
it  out  of  the  dish  when  baked,  or  bake 
the  crust  with  a  piece  of  bread  to  keep 
it  hollow,  and  warm  the  mince  with  a 
little  cream,  and  pour  in. 

1220.— CALF'S  HEAD  PIE. 

Stew  a  knuckle  of  veal  till  fit  for  eat- 
ing with  two  onions,  a  little  isinglass,  a 
fagot  of  sweet  herbs,  a  blade  of  mace, 
and  a  few  peppercorns  in  three  pints  of 
water ;  keep  the  broth  for  the  pie.  Take 
off  a  little  of  the  meat  for  forcemeat 
balls,  and  let  them  be  used  for  the  family, 
but  boil  the  bones  -until  the  broth  is  very 
good  :  half  boil  the  head,  and  cut  it  into 
square  pieces ;  put  a  layer  of  ham  at  the 
bottom  of  them,  some  head,  first  fat  then 
lean,  with  forcemeat  balls,  and  hard- 
boiled  eggs  cut  in  half,  and  so  on  till  the 
dish  is  full,  but  be  careful  not  to  place 
the  pieces  close  together  or  the  pie  wiU 


418 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


be  too  solid,  and  there  will  be  no  space 
for  the  jelly.  The  meat  must  be  first 
pretty  well  seasoned  with  pepper  and 
salt,  and  a  little  nutmeg ;  put  a  little 
water  and  a  little  stock  into  thefdish, 
and  cover  it  with  a  thickish  crust,  bake 
it  in  a  slow  oven,  and  when  done,  pour 
into  it  as  much  gravy  as  it  will  possibly 
hold,  and  do  not  cut  it  till  perfectly  cold, 
in  doing  which  use  a  very  sharp  knife, 
and  first  cut  out  a  large  slice,  going  down 
to  the  bottom  of  the  dish,  and  when  done 
thus  thinner  slices  can  be  cut.  The  dif- 
ferent colors  and  the  clear  jelly  have  a 
beautiful  appearance. 

1221.— DUCK  PIE. 

Bone  a  full-grown  young  duck  and  a 
fowl,  wash  them  and  season  with  pepper 
and  salt,  a  little  allspice  and  mace  pound- 
ed ;  put  the  fowl  within  the  duck,  and 
on  the  former  a  calf's  tongue  pickled  red, 
boiled  very  tender  and  peeled,  press  the 
whole  close,  the  skins  of  the  legs  should 
be  drawn  inward,  that  the  body  of  the 
fowl  may  be  quite  smooth ;  if  approved, 
the  space  between  the  sides  of  the  crust 
may  be  filled  with  a  fine  forcemeat.  Bake 
it  in  a  slow  oven,  either  in  a  dish  or 
raised  pie-crust,  ornamented. 

1222.— FISH  PIE. 

This  pie  may  be  made  of  any  fish,  sal- 
mon, pike,  eel,  or  any  other.  Scale  your 
fish  and  cut  it  into  pieces,  line  your  pie- 
dish  with  a  good  crust,  put  in  the  fish 
with  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  a  little 
salt,  some  bruised  spices,  and  a  layer  of 
butter  on  the  top,  put  on  the  crust  and 
bake  for  an  hour  and  a  half;  when  done 
remove  the  fat  and  put  hi  a  vegetable 
ragout  made  thus :— Stir  a  little  butter 
and  flour  over  the  fire  until  a  pale  brown, 
moisten  with  half  a  pint  of  sherry,  some 
soup  maigre,  add  a  few  mushrooms,  a 
little  salt,  and  a  bunch  of  herbs ;  let  it 
boil  half  an  hour,  and  then  put  the  ra- 


gout into  the  pies.     Any  vegetable  ra- 
gout may  be  used. 

1223.-GAME  PIE. 

Cut  up  your  game,  and  use  truffles  and 
whole  mushrooms  if  you  have  them; 
the  seasonings  as  before,  but  no  hard- 
boiled  eggs,  and  add  a  little  port  wine 
with  your  gravy  or  stock.  If  you  take 
the  bones  from  the  birds  or  hare,  use 
some  forcemeat  as  layers  instead  as  in 
former  pies,  veal  and  steaks,  but  no  eggs  ; 
if  boned  you  will  prepare  a  good  stock 
from  the  bones,  making  the  pie  taste  of 
the  very  essence  of  the  game,  or  poultry, 
or  whatever  it  may  consist  of. 

1224— SNIPE  PIE. 

Bone  three  snipes,  fill  them  with  a 
light  forcemeat,  adding  the  trails  and 
some  truffles  pounded,  put  the  birds  in  a 
deep  dish,  with  a  small  layer  of  force- 
meat all  round ;  cover  with  a  puff-paste, 
egg  it,  ornament  it  to  fancy,  and  put  it 
into  the  oven.  When  about  three  parts 
done,  lift  up  the  lid,  pour  in  some  good 
cullis,  a  glass  and  a  half  of  Madeira. 
Season  with  cayenne  pepper  and  lemon- 
juice,  cover  down,  and  finish  baking. 

1225.— GEEEN  GOOSE  PIE. 

Bone  two  young  green  geese  of  a  good 
size,  but  first  take  away  every  plug  and 
singe  them  nicely,  wash  them  clean,  and 
season  them  high  with  salt,  pepper,  mace, 
and  allspice.  Put  one  inside  the  other 
and  press  them  as  close  as  you  can, 
drawing  the  legs  inwards;  put  a  good 
deal  of  butter  over  them,  and  bake  them 
either  with  or  without  crust;  if  with 
the  latter  a  cover  to  the  dish  must  fit 
close  to  keep  in  the  steam,  it  will  keep 
long.  Gravy  jellied  may  be  added  when 
served. 

MACKENZIE'S  PEEIGOED  PIE. 

Take  six  partridges  and  tie  their  legs 


BAVOKY   PIES. 


419 


like  chickens  to  be  boiled ;  season  them 
with  pepper,  salt,  cloves,  and  beaten 
mace.  Put  two  pounds  lean  veal,  and 
one  pound  of  fat  bacon  cut  into  small 
bits,  in  a  stew  pan  with  half  a  pound  of 
butter,  shalots,  chopped  herbs,  and  sea- 
soning ;  stew  till  tender ;  strain  and 
pound  the  meat  in  a  mortar ;  mix  the  pulp 
with  some  of  the  liquor  ;  put  this  force- 
meat around  and  over  the  partridges  in  a 
raised  pie,  and  lay  over  thin  slices  of 
bacon.  Cover  with  paste;  bake  three 
hours  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Worcester  sauce,  good  with  savory 
pies,  is  said  to  be  made  on  a  basis  of 
good  walnut  ketcnup  with  additional 
spices. 

1227.— HAEE  PIE. 

Season  the  hare  after  it  is  cut  up,  in 
the  same  manner  as  if  to  be  jugged; 
and  bake  it,  with  eggs,  and  forcemeat 
partly  made  of  the  liver,  in  a  raised  crust 
or  dish.  When  it  is  to  be  served,  raise 
the  lid,  and,  if  in  a  crust,  cover  it  with 
jelly ;  but,  if  made  in  a  dish,  with  warm 
gravy,  mixed  with  a  large  glassful  of 
port  wine. 

1228.— TIPPEEAEY  CUEEY  (an  excellent  Picnic 
Dish). 

Boil  four  chickens,  and  stuff  two  of 
them  when  cold  with  a  forcemeat  made 
of  crumbs  of  bread,  a  few  slices  of  ham 
or  tongue,  sweet  herbs,  and  a  shalot  well 
pounded  and  mixed  with  the  yolk  of  an 
egg.  Stuff  the  other  two  with  boiled 
rice,  lay  them  in  a  mould  or  dish,  with 
eight  hard-boiled  eggs  cut  in  half,  a  few 
mushrooms,  a  little  pickled  lemon,  cut  in 
thin  rings.  Pour  over  the  chickens  a 
gravy  made  as  follows : — Fry  an  onion 
in  a  little  butter,  add  a  table-spoonful  of 
curry-powder,  one  of  vinegar,  one  of 
mushroom-ketchup,  a  little  salt,  and  a 
little  more  than  a  pint  of  good  veal  broth ; 
if  the  broth  does  not  jelly,  isinglass  must 
be  put  into  it  to  make  it  do  so.  When 


cold  turn  it  out  on  a  dish.  It  is  a  great 
improvement  to  bone  the  chickens,  the 
bones  helping  to  make  the  gravy. 

1229.— FRENCH  PIE. 

Make  a  raised  crust  upon  a  buttered 
tin,  and  brush  it  with  yolk  of  egg ;  cover 
the  bottom  with  forcemeat,  then  fill 
up  the  pie  with  sweetbread  cut  into 
small  pieces,  oysters,  hard  eggs,  legs  of 
chicken,  turkey,  or  rabbit,  boned  ;  arti- 
choke-bottoms in  small  pieces,  asparagus- 
tops,  forcemeat-balls,  and  mushrooms, 
taking  care  to  lay  them  regularly,  and  to 
season  the  whole  lightly  and  evenly : 
bake  it  in  a  moderate  oven.  When  it  is 
done  pour  in  some  strong  gravy  and 
cream  thickened  with  flour  and  butter. 

Sausage-meat  may  be  mixed  with  the 
forcemeat,  and  in  winter  truffles  sub- 
stituted for  the  vegetables ;  the  seasoning 
should  be  of  mace,  cloves,  and  cayenne 
pepper. 

1230.— VEGETABLE  PIE. 

Scald  and  blanch  some  broad  beans ; 
cut  ychmg  carrots,  turnips,  artichoke- 
bottoms,  mushrooms,  onions,  lettuces, 
parsley,  celery,  and  add  peas ;  or  use  any 
of  them  you  may  have.  Make  them  into 
a  nice  stew,  with  a  little  good  veal  gravy ; 
season  with  pepper  and  salt;  bake  a 
crust  over  a  dish,  with  a  little  lining 
round  the  edge.  When  baked,  pour  the 
stew  into  the  dish,  and  lay  the  crust  over 
it.  Winter  vegetables  may  be  used  in 
the  same  way,  and  a  cup  of  cream  is  a 
great  improvement. 

1231.— COLD  PIES. 

When  meat  pies  are  prepared  to  be 
eaten  cold,  suet  should  not  be  put  into 
the  forcemeat  that  is  used  with  them. 
If  the  pie  is  made  of  meat  that  will  take 
more  dressing,  to  make  it  extremely  ten- 
der, than  the  baking  of  the  crust  will 
allow,  prepare  it  in  the  following  way : — 
Take  three  pounds  of  the  veiny  piece  of 


420 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


beef  that  has  fat  and  lean  ;  wash  it,  and 
season  it  with  salt,  pepper,  mace,  and  all- 
spice, in  fine  powder,  rubbing  them  well 
in.  Set  it  by  the  side  of  a  slow  fire,  in  a 
stewpot  that  will  just  hold  it ;  put  to  it 
a  piece  of  butter  of  about  the  weight  of 
two  ounces,  and  cover  it  quite  close ;  let 
it  just  simmer  in  its  own  steam  till  it  be- 
gins to  shrink.  When  it  is  cold,  add 
more  seasoning,  forcemeat,  and  eggs :  if 
it  is  made  in  a  dish,  put  some  gravy  to  it 
before  baking  ;  but  if  it  is  only  in  crust, 
do  not  put  the  gravy  till  after  it  is  cold 
and  in  jelly.  Forcemeat  may  be  put  both 
under  and  over  the  meat,  if  preferred  to 
balls. 

1232.— VEAL  AND  SWEETBKEAD  PIE. 

Cut  the  veal  from  the  chump  end  of 
the  loin ;  season  it  well ;  clean  and 
blanch  a  sweetbread,  cut  it  into  pieces, 
and  season  it ;  lay  both  in  the  dish  with 
the  yolks  of  six  hard-boiled  eggs  and  a 
pint  of  oysters.  Strain  the  oyster  liquor, 
add  to  it  a  pint  of  good  gravy ;  line  the 
sides  of  the  dish  with  a  puff  paste  half 
an  inch  thick,  and  cover  it  with  a  lid  of 
the  same.  Bake  it  in  a  quick  oven  for 
an  hour  and  a  quarter;  and  when  it 
is  sent  to  table  cut  the  lid  into  eight  or 
ten  pieces,  and  stick  them  round  the 
sides,  covering  the  meat  with  slices  of 
lemon. 

1233.— VEAL  AND  SAUSAGE  PIE. 

Cover  a  shallow  dish  with  paste,  lay  a 
well-beaten  veal  cutlet  at  the  bottom, 
slightly  seasoned ;  cover  it  with  a  Bo- 
logna sausage  freed  from  the  skin  and 
cut  into  slices ;  then  add  another  cutlet 
and  a  layer  of  the  Bologna  sausage ; 
cover  the  whole  with  paste,  and  put  no 
water  to  it :  the  veal  will  give  out  suffi- 
cient gravy,  while  it  will  be  rendered 
very  savory  by  the  sausage.  It  is  ex- 
cellent eaten  cold. 

1234— VEAL  AND  OYSTEB  PIE. 

Make  a  seasoning  of  pepper,  salt,  and 


a  small  quantity  of  grated  lemon-peel  • 
Cut  some  veal-cutlets,  and  beat  them, 
until  they  are  tender :  spread  over  them 
a  layer  of  pounded  ham,  and  roll  them 
round;  then  cover  them  with  oysters, 
and  put  another  layer  of  the  veal  fillets, 
and  oysters  on  the  top.  Make  a  gravy 
of  the  bones  and  trimmings,  or  with  a 
lump  of  butter,  onion,  a  little  flour  and 
water ;  stew  the  oyster  liquor,  and  put 
to  it,  and  fill  up  the  dish,  reserving  a  por- 
tion to  put  into  the  pie  when  it  comes 
from  the  oven. 

1235.— EXCELLENT  POEK  PIES  TO  EAT 
COLD. 

Raise  the  crust  according  to  the  direc- 
tions already  given,  into  either  a  round 
or  oval  form,  as  you  choose  ;  have  ready 
the  trimmings  and  small  bits  of  pork  cut 
off  when  a  hog  is  killed ;  and  if  these 
are  not  enough,  take  the  meat  off  a  blade- 
bone.  Beat  it  well  with  a  rolling-pin, 
cut  it  into  dice,  season  with  pepper  and 
salt,  and  keep  the  fat  and  lean  separate. 
Put  it  in  layers,  quite  close  up  to  the 
top ;  lay  on  the  lid ;  cut  the  edge  smooth 
round,  and  pinch  it ;  bake  in  a  slow  soak- 
ing oven,  as  the  meat  is  very  solid.  The 
pork  may  be  put  into  a  common  dish, 
with  a  very  plain  crust,  and  be  quite  as 
good.  Observe  to  put  no  bone  or  water 
into  pork  pie :  the  outside  of  the  pieces 
will  be  hard  unless  they  are  cut  small 
and  pressed  close. 

.  Both  these  and  veal  and  chicken  pies 
are  generally  eaten  cold,  and,  as  they  are 
always  seasoned  highly,  will  keep  good 
for  several  days  in  the  hottest  weather. 
In  England  it  is  not  uncommon  to  take 
off  the  cover  and  fill  the  pie  up,  when 
cold,  with  clouted  cream,  which  is  a  very 
delicious  addition. 

1236.— CALF'S-HEAD  OK  CALFS-FOOT  PIE. 

Either  must  be  well  stewed  before 
being  put  into  the  pie.  They  must  be 
cut  into  nice  pieces,  free  from  bone,  and 


SAVORY   PIES. 


421 


well  seasoned,  or  otherwise  they  will  be 
tasteless.  If  to  be  eaten  hot,  sausage- 
meat  or  fresh  mushrooms  or  oysters  will 
be  an  improvement,  in  addition  to  the 
ham,  eggs,  and  forcemeat  balls  ;  and  if 
cold,  the  small  pickled  mushrooms  should 
be  added,  or  a  little  mushroom  powder 
in  the  gravy.  The  excellence  of  the  pie 
will  chiefly  depend  upon  the  seasoning 
and  flavor,  and  the  quantity  of  fine 
savory  jelly  which  it  will  contain  ?  and 
therefore  the  meat  should  not  be  closely 
packed,  in  order  to  leave  room  for  the 


1237.—  CALF'S-FOOT  AND  KIDNEY  PIE. 
Take  from  a  cold  roasted  loin  of  veal 
slices  of  the  kidney  fat,  cover  them  with 
pounded  ham,  and  put  them  into  a  dish 
swith  the  kidney  cut  into  pieces,  and  the 
meat  from  a  calf's  foot  ;  put  in  a  few  hard- 
boiled  eggs  and  forcemeat  balls,  made 
very  savory  with  oysters,  an  anchovy, 
and  the  fat  of  bacon,  as  this  pie  should 
be  eaten  cold.  Put  the  juice  of  a  half 
a  lemon,  or  a  spoonful  of  Harvey  sauce, 
into  a  gravy.  Sweetbread  may  be  em- 
ployed instead  of  kidney. 

1233.—  BEEF-STEAK  AND  OYSTEK  PIE. 

Prepare  the  steaks  as  above,  and  put 
layers  of  them  and  of  oysters.  Stew 
the  liquor  and  beards  of  the  latter  with 
a  bit  of  lemon-peel,  mace,  and  a  table- 
spoonful  of  walnut  ketchup.  When  the 
pie  is  baked,  boil  with  the  above  three 
spoonfuls  of  cream,  and  one  ounce  of  but- 
ter rubbed  in  flour  ;  to  which,  however, 
many  people  object  as  injuring  the  savor- 
iness  of  the  pie  ;  in  which  case,  should 
any  addition  be  required,  a  few  spoon- 
fuls of  beef  gravy  and  port  wine  will  an- 
swer the  purpose.  Strain  it,  and  pour 
it  into  the  dish  :  for  a  small  pie  a  dozen 
large  oysters  will  be  sufficient,  and 
the  pie  may  be  baked  in  a  couple  of 
hours. 

27 


1239.— MAEEOW  PATTIES. 

Make  a  paste  with  four  ounces  of  sweei 
almonds  blanched,  moistening  them  with 
orange  flower  water;  mix  this  paste 
witn  a  handful  of  flour,  a  drop  of  warm 
water  and  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  ;  then 
line  several  shallow  moulds  with  it, 
glaze  and  bake  them  in  a  slow  oven. 
When  done  put  into  each  of  them  a  lit- 
tle cream  about  the  thickness  of  a  crown 
piece,  made  with  beef  marrow,  lemon 
peel,  and  cream,  cover  it  with  a  spoonful 
of  white  of  egg  whipped  to  a  snow, 
sprinkle  sifted  sugar  over,  and  serve  them 
very  hot. 

1240.— SQUAB  PIE 

Is  a  favorite  dish  in  some  parts  of  Eng- 
land, and  is  there  generally  made  of 
mutton.  Cut  apples  as  for  other  pies, 
and  lay  them  in  rows  with  mutton  chops 
and  shred  onion;  sprinkle  with  pepper 
and  salt,  and  also  some  sugar.  Bake  the 
pie  in  a  deep  dish,  cover  it  with  a  thick 
crust.  «and  eat  it  hot ;  it  must  be  well 
done>  and  will  take  two  to  three  hours 
baking.  It  is  often  made  of  beef  cut 
into  dice,  with  some  lean  bacon  seasoned 
and  mixed  with  the  apples. 

1241.— YENISON  PASTY. 

The  neck,  breast,  and  shoulder  are  the 
only  parts  of  the  deer  used  for  a  pasty  j 
and  even  the  neck  is  more  generally 
roasted. 

Cut  the  venison  in  pieces  ;  put  it  into 
a  stewpan  with  a  little  port  wine,  two 
shalots,  an  onion,  bay-leaf,  fagot  of  pars- 
ley and  thyme,  pepper,  salt,  and  a  little 
gravy.  Cover  it  close  and  let  it  stew 
gently  until  tender ;  take  out  the  meat, 
and  pull  out  the  bones ;  reduce  the  gravy, 
and  when  thoroughly  cold  remove  the 
fat ;  then  proceed  to  make  the  pasty. 

Line  the  sides  of  the  dish  with  crust, 
but  not  the  bottom ;  lay  in  the  meat  with 
fat  between  each  piece,  season  with  pep- 


422 


THE^PBACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


per  and  salt^  put  toil  a  pint  of  the  gravy 
.and  a  few  bits  of. butter,  cover  with  a 
good  crust,  and  bake  it  thoroughly. 

Keep  the  remainder  of  the  gravy  till 
the  pasty  comes  from  the  oven,  put  it  by 
means  of  a  funnel  into  the  middle  quite 
hot,  and  shake  the  dish  to  mix  it  well. 
The  pasty  must  be  well  done,  requiring 
generally  two  hours'  baking.  • 

A  want  of  fat  may  be  supplied  by  the 
fat  of  a  loin  of  mutton  steeped  for  twenty- 
four  hours  in  port  wine  and  garlic  vine- 
gar. 

1242.— TO    MAKE    A  PASTY  OF    BEEP     OE 
MUTTON  TO  EAT  LIKE  VENISON. 

Bone  a  small  rump  or  piece  of  sirloin 
of  beef,  or  a  fat  loin  of  mutton,  after 
hanging  several  days.  Beat  it  very  well 
witti  a  rolling-pin  ;  then  rub  ten  pounds 
of  meat  with  four  ounces  of  sugar,  and 
pour  over  it  a  glass  of  port,  and  the  same 
of  vinegar.  Let  it  lie  five  days  and 
nights;  wash  and  wipe  the  meat  very 
dry,  and  season  it  very  high  with  pepper, 
Jamaica  pepper,  nutmeg,  and  salt.  Lay 
it  in  the  dish,  and  to  ten  pounds  put 
three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  butter; 
spread  it  over  the  meat.  Put  a  crust 
round  the  edges,  and  cover  with  a  thick 
one,  or  it  will  be  overdone  before  the 
meat  be  soaked :  it  must  be  done  in  a 
slow  oven. 

Set  the  bones  in  a  pan  in  the  oven, 
with  no  more  water  than  will  cover  them? 
and  one  glass  of  port,  a  little  pepper  and 
salt,  that  you  may  have  a  little  rich 
gravy  to  add  to  the  pasty  when  flrawn. 

1248.— YORKSHIRE  GOOSE  PIE. 

Bone  a  goose,  a  fowl,  and  a  pigeon; 
season  them  well  with  pepper,  taking 
care  to  cover  the  whole  of  the  interior, 
or  otherwise  it  will  turn  sour  before  it 
can  be  eaten ;  put  the  pigeon  into  the 
fowl,  and  the  fowl  inside  the  goose,  filling 
the  interstices  with  various  kinds  of 
force  and  sausage  meat  and  hard-boiled 


eggs.  The  liver  and  gizzard  of  the  fowl 
and  pigeon  will  assist  in  the  forcemeat, 
which  must  be  very  well  compounded  ; 
sew  up  the  goose,  and  put  it  into  a  thick 
crust.  It  will  take  several  hours  to 
bake.  Make  savory  jelly,  which  must 
also  be  well  seasoned,  pour  it  into  the 
pie  when  it  comes  from  the  oven  ;  orna- 
ment the  top,  and  let  it  be  movable,  so 
that  the  pie  may  have  a  good  appearance  to 
the  last,  as  the  crust  is  not  to  be  eaten. 
A  calf's  foot,  boned  and  cut  small,  may 
be  added,  especially  if  used  for  the 

jelly. 

1244. -A  CHEISTMAS  PIE. 

Bone  a  large  goose  and  a  fowl.  Par- 
boil a  smoked  tongue ;  peel  it  and  cut  oif 
the  root.  Mix  together  a  powdered  nutmeg. 
a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  powdered  mace,  a 
tea-spoonful  of  pepper,  the  same  quantity5* 
of  salt,  and  season  the  fowl  and  goose. 

Roll  out  the  paste  near  an  inch  thick, 
and  divide  it,  into  three  pieces  ;  =,cut  out 
two  of  them  in  an  oval  form  for  the  top 
and  bottom ;  and  the  other  into  a  long 
straight  piece  for  the  sides  or  walls  of 
the  pie.  Brush  the  paste  all  over  with 
beaten  white  of  egg,  and  set  on  the  bot- 
tom the  piece  that  is  to  form  the  wall, 
pinching  the  edges  together,  and  cement- 
ing them  with  white  of  egg.  The  bottom 
piece  must  be  large  enough  to  turn  up  a 
little  round  the  lower  edge  of  the  wall 
piece,  to  which  it  must  be  firmly  joined 
all  round.  When  you  have  the  crust 
properly  fixed,  so  as  to  be  baked  stand- 
ing alone  without«a  dish,  put  in  first  the 
goose,  then  the  fowl,  then  the  tongue. 
Fill  up  what  space  is  left  with  pieces  of 
the  flesh  of  pigeons,  or  of  partridges, 
quails,  or  any  game  that  is  convenient. 
There  must  be  no  bones  in  the  pie.  You 
may  add  also  some  bits  of  ham.  or  some 
forcemeat  balls.  Cover  the  ingredients 
with  half  a  pound  of  butter,  and  put  on 
the  top  crust  which,  of  course,  must  be 
also  of  an  oval  form  to  correspond  with 


PATTIES VOL- AU- VENT. 


423 


the  bottom.  The  lid  must  be  placed  not 
quite  on  the  top  edge  of  the  wall,  but 
an  inch  and  a  half  below  it ;  close  it  very 
well,  and  ornament  the  sides  and  top 
with  festoons  and  leaves  cut  out  of  paste ; 
notch  the  edges  handsomely,  and  put  a 
paste  flower  in  the  centre ;  glaze  the 
whole  with  beaten  yolk  of  egg,  and  bind 
the  pie  all  round  with  a  double  fold  of 
white  paper ;  bake  it  four  hours. 

If  the  weather  is  cold,  and  the  pie  kept 
carefully  covered  up  from  the  air,  it  will 
be  good  for  two  or  three  weeks,  the 
standing  crust  assisting  to  preserve  it. 

1245.— PATTIES. 

Roll  out  puff  paste  half  an  inch  thick, 
and,  with  a  two-inch  round  cutter,  cut 
as  many  pieces  as  are  required  for  the 
dish.  Take  an  inch  cutter,  dip  it  in  hot 
water,  and  press  it  in  the  middle  of  the 
paste  about  half  through.  Brush  the 
pieces  over  with  yolk  of  egg,  bake  in  a 
quick  oven,  take  out  the  piece  marked 
with  the  inch  cutter,  remove  the  soft 
parts  from  the  inside,  fill  them  with  a 
mince  of  any  kind,  dish  them  on  a  nap- 
kin, garnish  with  fried  parsley.  To 
make  the  tops,  roll  out  the  trimmings 
thin,  cut  some  pieces  with  the  inch  cut- 
ter, egg  them  over,  and  bake  them. 

Of  Beef. — Shred  underdone  dressed 
beef  with  a  little  fat,  season  with  pepper, 
salt,  and  a  little  shalot  or  onion.  Add 
gravy,  half  a  glass  of  Madeira,  and  a  few 
bread-crumbs.  When  hot,  fill  the  patty- 
cases. 

Of  Veal. — Mince  some  veal  that  is 
not  quite  done,  put  to  it  a  little  parsley, 
lemon-peel,  jmtmeg,  and  salt;  a  little 
cream  and  gravy  just  to  moisten  the 
meat ;  if  you  have  any  ham,  it  will  be 
an  improvement.  Do  not  warm  it  till 
the  patties  are  baked. 

Of  Turkey.— Mince  some  of  the  white 
part;  and  with  grated  lemon,  nutmeg, 


salt,  a  very  little  white  pepper,  cream, 
and  a  very  little  bit  of  butter  warmed, 
fill  the  patties. 

A  good  Mince  for  Patties.  —  Two 
ounces  of  ham,  four  of  chicken  or  veal, 
one  egg  boiled  hard,  three  cloves,  a  blade 
of  mace,  pepper  and  salt,  in  fine  powder. 
Just  before  you  serve,  warm  the  above 
with  four  spoonfuls  of  rich  gravy,  the 
same  of  cream,  and  one  ounce  of  butter. 
Fill  as  usual. 

Of  Oyster.— Take  off  the  beards  of  the 
oysters,  cut  the  other  parts  in  small  bits, 
put  them  in  a  small  tosser  with  a  grate 
of  nutmeg,  a  little  white  pepper  and  salt, 
a  morsel  of  lemon-peel  cut  very  small,  a 
little  cream,  and  a  small  quantity  of  the 
oyster  liquor.  Simmer  a  few  minutes 
before  you  fill. 

Or : — Beard  and  chop  the  oysters,  boil 
a  little  cream,  with  an  onion  and  a  small 
quantity  of  mace  ;  chop  fine  the  crust  of 
a  French  roll,  mix  it  with  the  oysters, 
add  the  cream  ;  let  it  boil.  Season  with 
nutmeg,  cayenne,  and  salt. 

Of  Lobster. — Mince  the  fish  in  the 
same  manner, -mingling  with  it  a  little 
of  the  coral,  and  make  with  the  same 
seasoning,  a  little  cream,  and  the  smallest 
bit  of  butter. 

Of  Shrimps. — Pick  a  quart  of  shrimps ; 
if  they  are  very  salt,  season  them  with 
only  mace  and  a  clove  or  two.  Mince 
two  or  three  anchovies ;  mix  these  with 
the  spice,  and  then  season  the  shrimps. 
Put  a  glass  of  sharp  white  wine.  They 
do  not  take  long  baking. 

1246.— VOL-AU- VENT. 

Take  puff  paste,  roll  it  about  three- 
quarters  of  an  inch  thick,  cut  it  round 
or  oval  according  to  the  shape  of  the 
dish ;  make  the  knife  hot  in  water,  so  as 
not  to  drag  the  paste  in  cutting  it  j  mark 
the  cover  an  inch  from  the  edge,  brush 
it  over  with  yolk  of  egg  j  bake  it  in  a 


424 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


quick  oven  ;  when  done  take  off  the  top, 
clean  out  the  soft  paste,  return  it  to  the 
oven  for  a  few  minutes  to  dry  ;  dish  it 
on  a  napkin. 

Care  must  be  taken  in  taking  out  the 
soft  part  not  to  break  the  outside. 

It  may  be  filled  with  ragout  of  sweet- 
bread, fricassee  of  chicken,  quenelles, 
lobster,  or  oysters,  but  is  never  made  of 
a  large  size. 

1247.— VOL-AU-VENT  OF  CKOQUETTES. 

Make  croquettes  of  the  size  of  a 
pigeon's  egg,  of  veal  and  ham  and  of 
calves'  brains,  an  equal  quantity  of  each, 
fry  them  of  the  palest  gold  color  j  make 
a  rich  white-sauce,  and  put  into  it  the 
very  smallest  mushrooms  or  minced  truf- 
fles ;  give  it  an  acid  flavor  with  lemon 
or  lemon-pickle,  and  put  it  into  the  vol-au- 
vent  when  it  is  to  be  sent  to  table. 

1248.— VOL-AU-VENT  OF  VEAL. 

Cut  veal  into  thin  pieces  the  size  of 
half-a-crown,  beat  them,  and  fry  them  a 
pale  brown;  make  some  forcemeat  and 
egg-balls,  fry  the  former,  put  the  whole 
into  a  rich  brown  gravy,  fill  the  vol-au- 
vent.  and  serve  it  up  hot. 

1249.-VOL-AU-VENT  OF  PIGEONS  AND 
SWEETBKEADS. 

Cut  off  the  pinions,  legs,  and  backs  of 
three  or  four  pigeons,  and  bone  the 
breast,  making  it  as  large  as  possible : 
cut  three  or  four  pieces  of  blanched 
sweetbread  the  same  size,  put  them  to- 
gether, securing  them  with  tape,  and  put 
them  into  a  stewpan  with  a  piece  of  but- 
ter, the  trimmings,  an  onion,  a  bunch  of 
sweet  herbs,  a  slice  of  fat  bacon,  and  a 
small  teacupful  of  water.  Let  them 
stew  till  quite  tender ;  remove  the  tape, 
strain  and  thicken  the  gravy,  and  put 


them  into  the  paste  when  it  comes  from 
the  oven. 


1250.— CODFISH  PIE. 

Take  dressed  codfish  and  cold  oyster- 
sauce  ;  put  a  little  of  the  sauce  at  the 
bottom  of  a  pie-dish,  then  a  layer  of 
flakes  of  codfish,  with  a  little  of  the  liver 
cut  in  small  pieces ;  season  with  black 
pepper  and  salt,  and  a  very  little  nutmeg ; 
repeat  the  layers  until  the  dish  is  full, 
cover  it  with  breadcrumbs  and  bits  of  fresh 
butter;  bake  for  three-quarters  of  an 
hour,  and  let  the  top  be  quite  brown.  A 
couple  of  sounds  well  soaked,  boiled  ten- 
der, and  cut  in  small  pieces,  are  a  great 
improvement. 

Or : — Take  a  piece  of  the  middle  of  a 
small  codfish,  and  salt  it  well  one* night; 
next  day  wash  it,  cut  it  in  slices,  season 
with  pepper,  salt,  and  a  very  little  nut- 
meg, mixed ;  place  it  in  a  dish,  and  put 
some  butter  on  it,  with  a  little  good 
broth  of  any  kind.  Cover  it  with  a 
crust;  and  when  done,  raise  it,  add  a 
dozen  oysters,  one  quarter  of  a  pint 
of  cream,  a  h'ttle  flour  and  butter,  a  grate 
of  lemon  and  nutmeg,  and  give  it  one 
boil.  Bake  it  a  full  hour. 


1251.— A  EEMAEKABLT  FINE  FISH  PIE. 

Boil  two  pounds  of  small  eels  ;  having 
cut  the  fins  quite  close,  pick  the  flesh  off, 
and  throw  the  bones  into  the  liquor  with 
a  little  mace,  pepper,  salt,  and  slice  of 
onion  ;  boil  till  quite  rich,  and  strain  it. 
Make  forcemeat  of  the  flesh,  an  anchovy, 
parsley,  lemon-peel,  salt,  pepper,  and 
crumbs,  and  four  ounces  of  butter 
warmed,  and  lay  it  at  the  bottom  of 
the  dish.  Take  the  flesh  of  soles,  small 
cod,  or  dressed  turbot,  and  lay  them  on 
the  forcemeat,  having  rubbed  it  with  salt 
and  pepper;  pour  the  gravy  over,  and 
bake. 


FKUIT  PIES. 


425 


FKUIT  PIES,  PUFFS,  PUD- 
DINGS, &o. 

ALL  pies  made  either  with  summer 
fruit  or  with  winter  preserves  will  be 
improved  by  a  mixture  of  apples,  pared 
and  sliced.  They  are  especially  good 
with  fresh  cherries,  currants,  &c.,  and 
will  be  found  an  agreeable  addition  to 
cranberries.  Equal  portions  also  of  cran- 
berries and  any  very  sweet  jam  will  im- 
prove both.  When  •  apples  are  mixed 
with  jam,  they  should  be  sliced  thin; 
and  if  syrup  be  wanted,  a  few  slices 
boiled  with  a  little  of  the  jam  in  sugar 
and  water.  In  making  pies  of  green 
gooseberries,  apples,  or  rhubarb,  the 
sugar  should  be  clarified — that  is,  boiled 
in  a  little  water,  but  no  water  poured 
into  the  pie,  as  it  destroys  the  flavor  of 
the  fruit.  For  fresh  fruits  short  crust 
is  very  suitable. 

For  a  good  common  pie-crust  allow 
half  a  pound  or  three-quarters  of  shorten- 
ing to  a  pound  of  flour.  Pie-crust  looks 
the  nicest  made  entirely  of  lard,  but  does 
not  taste  so  good  as  with  some  butter. 
In  winter,  beef  shortening,  mixed  with 
butter,  makes  good  plain  crust.  Rub 
half  of  the  shortening  with  two-thirds 
of  the  flour — to  each  pound  of  flour  put 
a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  add  just  suffi- 
cient cold  water  to  render  it  moist 
enough  to  roll  out  easily.  Divide  the 
crust  into  two  equal  portions — lay  one 
of  them  aside  for  the  upper  crust,  take 
the  other,  roll  it  out  quite  thin,  flouring 
your  rolling-board  and  pin,  so  that  the 
crust  will  not  stick  to  them,  and  line 
your  pie  plates,  which  should  be  previ- 
ously buttered — fill  your  plates  with 
your  fruit,  then  roll  out  the  upper  crust 
as  thin  as  possible,  spread  on  the  reserv- 
ed shortening,  sprinkle  over  the  flour, 
roll  it  up,  and  cut  it  into  as  many  pieces 
as  you  have  pies  to  cover.  Roll  each 


one  out  about  half  an  inch  thick,  .and 
cover  the  pies — trim  the  edges  off  neatly 
with  a  knife,  and  press  the  crust  down 
round  the  edge  of  the  plate  with  a  jag- 
ging iron,  so  that  the  juices  of  the  fruit 
may  not  run  out  while  baking.  Pastry 
should  be  baked  in  a  quick  oven. 


1252.-PUFF  PASTE,  OE  CONFECTIONERS 
TASTEY. 

Weigh  out  a  pound  and  a  quarter  of 
sifted  flour,  and  a  pound  of  butter.  Rub 
about  one-third  of  the  butter  with  two- 
thirds  of  the  flour,  and  a  teaspoonful  of 
salt.  When  the  butter  is  thoroughly 
mixed  with  the  flour,  add  one  beaten 
egg,  and  cold  water  to  moisten  it  suffi- 
ciently to  roll  out.  Sprinkle  part  of  the 
reserved  flour  on  a  board,  cut  the  butter 
left  into  small  pieces,  and  roll  them  out 
as  thin  as  possible.  Lay  the  butter,  as 
fast  as  rolled  out,  on  a  floured  plate,  each 
piece  by  itself— roll  out  the  pastry  as 
thin  as  it  can  be  rolled,  cover  it  with  the 
rolled  butter,  sprinkle  on  part  of  the 
reserved  flour,  and  roll  the  crust  up. 
Continue  to  roll  out  the  crust,  and  put 
on  the  reserved  butter  and  flour,  till  the 
whole  is  used.  Roll  it  out  lightly,  about 
half  an  inch  thick,  for  the  upper  crust, 
or  rim  to  your  pies — plain  pie  crust 
should  be  used  for  the  under  crust.  Or, 
instead  of  flour,  sprinkle  some  "  baking 
powder"  on  each  layer  of  butter;  when 
the  butter  melts,  it  will  cause  the  pow- 
der to  effervesce  and  puff  up  the  paste. 
To  make  the  "  baking  powder,"  take  one 
ounce  of  carbonate  of  soda,  and  seven 
drachms  of  Tartaric  acid,  mix  well :  it 
may  be  conveniently  applied  by  means  of 
a  common  pepper-pot  kept  for  the  pur- 
pose. Puff  pastry,  to  be  nice,  should 
be  baked  in  a  quick  oven  till  of  a  light 
brown  color.  If  it  browns  before  the 
fruit  in  the  pie  is  sufficiently  baked,  cover 
it  with  thick  paper. 


426 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


1258.-FLAKY  PASTE.    (By  a  Lady  of  New 
York.) 

Wet  half  a  pound  of  dried  flour  with 
cold  water  enough  to  make  a  hard,  stiff 
paste ;  roll  it  one  way  only ;  roll  in  half 
a  pound  of  hutter  with  a  knife,  in  small 
bits  at  a  tune. 

1254— EHUBAEB  PIES. 

Take  the  tender  stalks  of  the  rhubarb, 
strip  off  the  skin,  and  cut  the  stalks  into 
thin  slices.  Line  deep  plates  with  pie 
crust,  then  put  in  the  rhubarb,  with  a 
thick  layer  of  sugar  to  each  layer  of 
rhubarb — a  little  grated  lemon-peel  im- 
proves the  pie.  Cover  the  pies  with  a 
cnlst — press  it  down  tight  round  the 
edge  of  the  plate,  and  prick  the  crust 
with  a  fork.  Rhubarb  pies  should  be 
baked  about  an  hour,  in  a  slow  oven — it 
will  not  do  to  bake  them  quickly.  Some 
cooks  stew  the  rhubarb  before  making 
it  into  pies,  but  it  is  not  so  good  as  whten 
used  without  stewing. 

1255.— PUMPKIN  PIE. 

Halve  the  pumpkin,  take  out  the  seeds 
—rinse  the  pumpkin,  and  cut  it  into 
small  strips — stew  them  over  a  moderate 
fire,  in  just  sufficient  water  to  prevent 
their  burning  to  the  bottom  of  the  pot. 
When  stewed  soft,  turn  off  the  water, 
and  let  the  pumpkin  steam,  over  a  slow 
fire,  for  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes,  tak- 
ing care  that  it  does  not  burn.  Take  it 
from  the  fire,  and  strain  it  when  cool, 
through,  a  sieve.  If  you  wish  to  have 
the  pies  very  rich,  put  to  a  quart  of  the 
stewed  pumpkin  two  quarts  of  milk,  and 
twelve  eggs.  If  you  like  them  plain, 
put  to  a  quart  of  the  pumpkin  one  quart 
of  milk  and  three  eggs.  The  thicker  the 
pie  is  of  the  pumpkin,  the  less  will  be 
the  number  of  eggs  required  for  them. 
One  egg,  with  a  table-spoonful  of  flour, 
will  answer  for  a  quart  of  the  pumpkin, 
if  very  little  milk  is  used.  Sweeten  the 
pumpkin  with  sugar,  and  very  little  mo- 


lasses— the  sugar  and  eggs  should  be 
beaten  together.  Ginger,  grated  lemon- 
rind,  cinnamon  and  spices  or  nutmeg,  are 
good  for  the  pies.  Pumpkin  pies  require 
a  very  hot  oven. 

1256.— PUMPKIN  PUDDING.    (By  a  Lady  of 
New  York.) 

One  quart  stewed  pumpkin,  nine  beaten 
eggs,  three  pints  cream,  sugar,  mace,  nut- 
meg and  ginger.  Bake  in  paste. 

1257.— POTATO  PUDDING. 

Boil  Carolina  or  mealy  Irish  potatoes 
until  they  are  quite  soft.  When  peeled 
mash  and  strain  them.  To  a  quarter  of 
a  pound  of  potatoes,  put  a  quart  of  milk, 
three  table-spoonfuls  of  melted  butter, 
four  beaten  eggs,  a  wine-glass  of  wine — 
add  sugar  and  nutmeg  to  the  taste. 

1258.— PEACH  PIE. 

Take  mellow  juicy  peaches — wash  and 
put  them  in  a  deep  pie  plate,  lined  with 
pie  crust.  Sprinkle  a  thick  layer  of  sugar 
on  each  layer  of  peaches,  put  in  about  a 
table-spoonful  of  water,  and  sprinkle  a 
little  flour  over  the  top — cover  with  thick 
crust  and  bake  from  fifty  to  sixty  min- 
utes. 

1259.— FANCY  PASTEY. 

Use  some  fancy  cutter,  cutting  the* 
paste  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  egg  them 
and  glaee  them,  and  bake  them  a  light 
brown ;  when  cold  put  different  colored 
sweetmeats,  such  as  apple  jelly,  and  red 
currant  jelly  into  devices  upon  the  top  of 
each  piece ;  dish  them  upon  a  napkin. 

1260. GLAZING  FOE  TAETS. 

Mix  sifted  sugar  and  water  into  a  thick 
paste  like  cream,  and  brush  it  over  the 
crust. 

1261.— COCOA-NUT  PIE. 

Cut  off  the  brown  part  of  the  cocoa- 
nut,  grate  the  white  part,  and  mix  it 


.#HNCE  PIES. 


427 


with  milk,  and  set  it  on  the  fire  and  let 
it  boil  slowly  eight  or  ten  minutes.  To 
a  pound  of  the  grated  cocoa-nut  allow  a 
quart  of  milk,  eight  eggs,  four  table- 
spoonfuls  of  sifted  white  sugar,  a  glass 
of  wine,  a  small  cracker,  pounded  fine, 
two  spoonfuls  of  melted  butter,  and  half 
a  nutmeg.  The  eggs  and  sugar  should 
be  beaten  together  to  a  froth,  then  the 
wine  stirred  in.  Put  them  into  the  milk 
and  cocoa-nut,  which  should  be  first  al- 
lowed to  get  quite  cool — add  the  cracker 
and  nutmeg — turn  the  whole  into  deep 
pie  plates,  with  a  lining  and  rim  of  puff 
paste.  Bake  them  as  soon  as  turned 
into  the  plates. 

1262.— A  PLAIN  CUSTAED  PIE. 

Boil  a  quart  of  milk  with  half  a  dozen 
peach  leaves,  or  the  rind  of  a  lemon. 
When  they  have  flavored  the  milk,  strain 
it,  and  set  it  where  it  will  boil.  Mix  a 
table-spoonful  of  flour,  smoothly,  with  a 
couple  of  table-spoonfuls  of  milk,  and 
stir  it  into  the  boiling  milk.  Let  it  boil 
a  minute,  stirring  it.  constantly — take  it 
from  the  fire,  and  when  cool,  put  in  three 
beaten  eggs — sweeten  it  to  the  taste, 
turn  it  into  deep  pie  plates  lined  with 
paste,  and  bake  the  pies  in  a  quick  oven. 

1263.— MINCE  PIES. 

Fresh  tongue  must  be  used.  It  should 
be  for  two  days  well  covered  with  equal 
quantities  of  salt,  brown  sugar,  and  pow- 
dered cloves.  After  boiling  it  until  it  is 
thoroughly  done — say  two  hours — skin 
it  and  mince  it  fine.  Pick,  wash,  and 
dry  three  pounds  of  currants,  grate  the 
rind  of  five  lemons,  and  extract  their 
juice,  blanch  and  pound  an  ounce  of  bit- 
ter almonds  anjl  a  pound  of  sweet  al- 
monds, powder  four  nutmegs,  and  grind 
together  a  dozen  cloves  and  a  dozen 
blades  of  mace ;  chop  up  three  pounds  of 
beef  suet,  six  pounds  of  Sultana  raisins, 
and  six  of  the  best  pippin  apples  after 


paring  and  coring  them.  Mix  them  to- 
gether, pouring  over  them  a  quart  of 
Madeira  wine  and  a  pint  of  brandy. 

This  mince-meat  should  be  placed  in  a 
tolerably  deep  dish  and  baked  with  puff 
paste.  It  should  be  thoroughly  baked. 
Most  persons  prefer  to  eat  these  pies 
warm,  but  they  are  by  no  means  unpal- 
atable  when  cold. 

These  pies  are  richer  when  the  mince- 
meat has  been  left  for  a  few  days  in  a 
stone  jar,  closely  covered  with  a  paper 
which  has  been  dipped  in  brandy.  When 
taken  out,  a  little  more  sugar  and  a  small 
quantity  of  brandy  should  be  added  to 
the  mixture  before  the  pies  are  made. 

1264.— CEACKEE  PIE. 

One  soda  biscuit  and  a  half,  one  teacup 
of  white  sugar,  one  lemon,  one  teacup  of 
boiling  water.  Break  the  biscuit  into 
small  bits,  pour  over  them  the  boiling 
water,  cover,  and  leave  them  to  swell. 
Grate  the  yellow  part  of  the  rind  of  the 
lemon,  add  to  it  the  juice  and  the  sugar, 
mix  with  the  cracker  when  it  is  suf- 
ficiently swelled ;  make  a  nice  crust,  and 
prepare  as  apple  pies.  Sift  sugar  over 
the  pies  when  baked. 

1265.— MINCE  MEAT  FOE  CHEISTMAS  PIES. 
(Miss  Jane  Strickland's  Eeceipt) 

Take  equal  quantities  of  finely  shred  and 
chopped  beef  suet ;  cold  roast  beef,  well 
roasted;  currants,  washed,  dried,  and 
picked ;  and  raisins  stoned  and  chopped  j 
and  apples,  pared,  cored,  and  chopped  fine. 
Mix  all  these  prepared  ingredients  well 
together,  and  sweeten  with  good  moist 
Jamaica  sugar,  to  taste ;  grate  off  with 
loaf  sugar  the  peel  of  two  lemons,  and 
grate  in  two  nutmegs.  Having  well 
mingled  all  these  materials  together,  add 
to  them  in  the  proportion  of  your  mince- 
meat, thus : — If  you  have  two  pounds  of 
every  thing — namely  meat,  suet,  currants, 
raisins,  and  apnjes,  and  not  quite  two 
pounds  of  sugar,  pour  over  the  mixture  a 


428 


THE   PRACTICAL  -  HOUSEKEEPER. 


pint  of  rum,  or  French  brandy,  and  half  a 
pint  of  raisin  wine.  If  spirits  are  disliked, 
raisin  wine  of  a  fine  quality  or  Lisbon 
must  be  added ;  but  the  spirits  will  keep 
it  three  months.  Fill  a  jar  with  your 
mince-meat,  cram  down  as  hard  as  pos- 
sible, and  cover  with  a  close-fitting  lid, 
tied  down  with  brown  paper.  Be  careful 
•whenevei  you  take  out  your  meat,  to 
cram  down  that  in  the  jar  with  a  spoon, 
and  cover  close.  Line  your  tin  dishes 
with  puff  or  family  paste  ;  fill  with  mince 
meat  heaped  up  in  the  middle,  cut  slices 
of  candied  orange,  lemon,  and  citron 
peel,  and  put  on  your  meat,  cover  in  with 
paste ;  mark  prettily  with  a  knife,  and 
bake  in  a  quick  oven ;  heat  them  for 
table. 

It  was  formerly  the  custom  in  England 
for  married  couples  to  keep  the  anni- 
versaries of  their  wedding  days,  and  on 
those  occasions  as  many  small  mince 
pies  were  placed  on  one  dish  on  the  table, 
as  the  host  and  hostess  had  been  married 
years. 

1266.-MINCE  MEAT  (famished  by  a  New  York 
Lady). 

One  boiled  tongue ;  half  its  weight  of 
finely  chopped  beef  suet;  two  pounds 
currants,  two  pounds  raisins,  one  quart 
of  brandy,  one  of  wine ;  apples  and  sugar 
at  discretion;  cloves,  cinnamon,  mace 
citron,  orange-peel. 

The  mince  meat  made  at  Windsor 
Castle  every  year,  and  made  one  month 
previous  to  using,  is  as  follows  :  Two 
hundred  and  forty  pounds  of  raisins, 
four  hundred  pounds  currants,  two  hun- 
dred pounds  lump  sugar,  three  pounds 
cinnamon,  three  pounds  nutmegs,  three 
pounds  cloves,  three  pounds  ground  all- 
spice, two  pounds  ginger,  three  hundred 
pounds  beef,  three  hundred  and  fifty 
pounds  suet;  twenty-four  bushels  of 
apples,  two  hundred  ajid  forty  lemons, 
thirty  pounds  of  cedret,  seventy-two 


bottles  of  brandy,  three  pounds  mace, 
sixty  pounds  lemon-peel,  sixty  pounds 
orange-peel. 

1267.— APEICOT  TAPtT. 

Take  some  apricots,  cut  them  in  two, 
and  break  the  stones,  put  them  into  paste 
with  sugar,  a  small  quantity  of  preserved 
lemon,  and  a  few  of  the  kernels,  close  it, 
sprinkle  sugar  over,  and  glaze  it.  If  the 
apricots  are  not  ripe,  boil  them  a  short 
time  in  water,  and  'drain  them  well. 

1263.— APPLE  PIE. 

Pare,  core,  and  quarter  the  apples ; 
boil  the  cores  and  parings  in  sugar  and 
water;  strain  off  the  liquor,  adding  more 
sugar ;  grate  the  rind  of  a  lemon  over  the 
apples,  and  squeeze  the  juice  into  the 
syrup  ;  mix  half  a  dozen  cloves  with  the 
fruit,  put  in  a  piece  of  butter,  the  size  of 
a  walnut,  and  add  or  omit  a  glass  of  wine ; 
cover  with  puff  paste. 

Gooseberry,  Currant  and  Raspberry, 
Cherry,  Plum,  Damson,  Pear,  Quince, 
Mulberry,  Whortleberry  and  Raspberry, 
Dewberry  and  Raspberry,  or  Cranberry, 
may  all  be  made  in  the  same  way,  in  win- 
ter. A  little  whipped  cream  may  be 
placed  in  the  top,  for  a  variety. 

12G9.-CODLING  TAET. 

Scald  the  fruit ;  when  ready,  take  oif 
the  skin,  and  lay  them  whole  in  a  dish  ; 
put  a  little  of  the  water  that  the  apples 
were  boiled  in  at  bottom,  strew  them 
over  with  powdered  lump  sugar ;  when 
cold,  put  a  paste  round  the  edges,  and 
over.  When  the  tart  is  baked,  smear 
the  crust  with  white  of  egg,  and  sift  over 
it  some  powdered  sugar.  Serve  with 
custard. 

Or: — Line  the  bottom  of  a  shallow 
dish  with  paste  ;  lay  the  apples  in  it, 
sweeten,  and  lay  little  twists  of  paste 
over  in  bars. 


PTJFFS GATJFFRES . 


429 


The  mode  of  making  the  new-fashioned 
Apple-pie  is  to  pare  and  quarter  the 
apples,  scald  them,  beat  them  with  a 
spoon  with  some  of  the  liquor,  add  grat- 
ed lemon-peel,  the  juice  of  a  lemon  or 
Seville  orange,  or  a  part  of  a  quince, 
when  they  are  to  be  got,  cloves,  white 
sugar  finely  pounded,  and  a  piece  of  but- 
ter ;  put  a  paste  round  the  dish,  and 
cover  it  with  bars  or  flowers  of  paste — 
the  excellence  of  the  pie  consisting  of  the 
sort  of  apple  and  the  goodness  of  the 
paste ;  the  fruit  should  be  raised  in  the 
middle,  as  it  shrinks  in  the  baking. 

1270.— TO  MAKE  A  SIMNEL. 
One  pound  of  flour,  one  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  butter,  one  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  lump  sugar,  one  pound  of  currants, 
two  ounces  of  candied  lemon,  one  quar- 
ter of  an  ounce  of  carbonate  of  soda 
mixed  with  an  egg,  and  a  little  milk  ;  to 
be  put  in  a  tin  mould,  and  baked  till 
enough. 

1271.— EXCELLENT  LIGHT  PUFFS. 

Mix  two  spoonfuls  of  flour,  a  little 
grated  lemon-peel,  some  nutmeg,  half  a 
spoonful  of  brandy,  a  little  loaf-sugar, 
and  one  egg  ;  then  fry  it  enough,  but  not 
brown;  beat  it  in  a  mortar  with* five 
eggs,  whites  and  yolks ;  put  a  quantity 
of  lard  in  a  frying-pan,  and  when  quite 
hot  drop  a  dessert-spoonful  of  batter  at 
a  time;  turn  as  they  brown.  Serve 
them  immediately  with  sweet  sauce. 

Spanish  Puffs. — Put  one  ounce  of  fresh 
butter  into  a  quart  stewpan  ;  when  hot, 
put  in  four  spoonfuls  of  flour ;  stir  it  over 
the  fire  for  five  minutes;  have  ready 
boiling  a  gill  of  milk,  which  stir  in  by  de- 
grees so  as  to  avoid  making  it  lumpy ; 
when  it  is  thoroughly  boiled,  take  it  oif 
the  fire,  stir  in  six  eggs,  a  pinch  of  salt, 
a  little  nutmeg,  chopped  lemon-peel,  and 
a  handful  of  currants,  with  sugar  to 
palate,  and  sufficient  orange-flower  water 
to  flavor  it  j  let  it  get  cold  j  when  wanted 


for  use  have  some  lard  boiling,  make  the 
batter  into  balls  the  size  of  a  small  wal- 
nut, fry  them  until  they  burst ;  drain ; 
dust  them  over  with  powdered  sugar; 
serve  with  wine-sauce. 

German  Puffs. — Put  half  a  pound  of 
butter  into  a  breakfast-cupful  of  milk, 
place  the  pan  upon  the  fire,  and  when  it 
boils  add  a  cupful  of  flour  ;  beat  all  well 
together,  and,  when  cold,  mix  in  six  eggs, 
leaving  out  two  of  the  whites ;  beat  up 
some  sugar  and  grated  lemon-peel  with 
the  eggs,  and  bake  the  puffs  in  a  mode- 
rately heated  oven. 

Irish  Puffs. — Pound  one  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  sweet  and  one  ounce  of  bitter 
almonds,  but  not  too  finely ;  take  one 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  loaf-sugar  pounded 
and  sifted,  the  whites  of  two  eggs  beaten 
to  a  thick  froth  j  mix  all  together,  and 
put  the  puffs  into  pattypans  covered 
with  paste ;  then  sift  powdered  sugar 
over  them  thickly,  and  bake  them  a  light 
brown.  The  flavor  may  be  improved  by 
pounding  the  almonds  with  orange- 
flower  water  or  a  little  essence  of  lemon. 

1272.— GAUFFKES. 

Take  four  or  five  ounces  of  flour,  three 
ounces  of  pounded  sugar,  half  a  pint  of 
whipped  cream,  four  or  five  eggs,  a  small 
stick  of  pounded  vanilla,  a  grating  of  nut- 
meg, and  a  little  salt,  with  a  glass  of  cu- 
ra^oa  or  ratafia. 

Place  the  flour,  sugar,  and  salt  in  a  t>a- 
sin,  then  add  the  yolk  of  eggs,  the  va- 
nilla, and  the  spirit,  mixing  them  well 
together,  and  gradually  adding  the 
whipped  cream.  Just  before  using  the 
batter,  add  the  whites  of  eggs,  whipped 
to  a  froth,  and  mix  them  in  lightly,  so  as 
to  thoroughly  incorporate  them  with  it. 

Bake  these  gauffres  in  tongs  made  for 
the  purpose,  observing,  however,  that 
the  iron  be  very  carefully  heated,  and  the 
superfluous  heat  allowed  to  go  off  pre- 
viously to  filling  them  with  batter ;  rub 


430 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


the  tongs  with  fresh  butter  j  fill  the  bot- 
tom part  with  batter,  and  fasten  on  the 
top,  then  turn  it,  and  when  a  fine  brown 
on  both  sides,  shake  some  pounded  spice 
and  sugar  over  them,  and  send  them  to 
table. 

They  may  be  spread  with  any  kind  of 
preserve  or  jelly. 

12T3.— LENT  PIES. 

Boil  a  dozen  eggs  quite  hard,  and  chop 
the  yolks  very  fine  ;  chop  also  a  dozen  of 
moderate-sized  juicy  apples,  peeled  and 
cored,  together  with  two  pounds  of  ston- 
ed raisins ;  add  two  pounds  of  currants, 
one  pound  of  sugar,  and  a  table-spoonful 
each  of  powdered  cinnamon,  nutmeg, 
and  beaten  mace  ;  take  also  the  juice  and 
grated  peel  of  three  ripe  Jemons,  with 
half  a  pound  of  citron  cut  into  slips  ;  mix 
all  these  thoroughly,  and  moisten  the 
whole  with  a  pint  each  of  white  wine  and 
brandy.  If  at  hand,  a  little  rose-water 
may  be  added,  and  ratafia  may  be  used 
instead  of  brandy. 

1274— SWEET  PATTIES. 

Chop  the  meat  of  a  boiled  calf  s-foot, 
oi  which  you  use  the  liquor  for  jelly, 
with  two  apples,  one  ounce  of  orange, 
and  lemon  peel  candied,  and  some  fresh 
peel  and  juice  ;  mix  with  them  one-half 
of  a  nutmeg  grated,  the  yolk  of  an  egg, 
a  spoonful  of  brandy,  and  four  ounces 
currants,  washed  and  dried.  Bake  in 
small  patty  pans. 

1275.— VOL-AU-VENT 

Means  light  as  wind ;  you  must  there- 
fore make  this  paste  very  delicate.  It 
is  used  for  first  or  second  courses.  Of 
all  things  in  pastry  the  vol-au-vent  re- 
quires the  most  care  and  precision; 
they  that  can  make  a  good  vol-au-vent 
may  be  stamped  as  good  pastry-cooks. 
Make  a  pound  of  puff  paste,  giving 
it  seven  rolls  and  a  half,  leave  it  an 
inch  in  thickness,  make  a  mark  upon 


the  top  either  round  or  oval,  and 
according  to  the  size  of  your  dish; 
then,  with  a  sharp-pointed  knife  cut  it 
out  -from  the  paste,  holding  the  knife 
with  the  point  slanting  outwards  ;  turn 
it  over,  mark  the  edges  with  the  back  of 
your  knife,  and  place  it  upon  a  baking- 
sheet,  which  you  have  sprinkled  with 
water;  egg  over  the  top,  then  dip  the 
point  of  the  knife  into  hot  water,  and  cut 
a  ring  upon  the  top  a  quarter  of  an  inch 
deep,  and  half  an  inch  from  the  edge  of 
the  vol-au-vent ;  set  in  a  rather  hot  oven ; 
if  getting  too  much  color,  cover  over 
with  a  sheet  of  paper  ;  do  not  take  it  out 
before  done,  or  it  would  fall,  but  when 
quite  set,  cut  off  the  lid  and  empty  it 
with  a  knife  :  be  careful  to  make  no  hole 
in  the  side  or  bottom  ;  if  for  first  course 
it  is  ready,  but  if  for  second  sift  sugar  all 
over,  which  glaze  with  the  salamander. 
Regulate  the  thickness  of  the  paste  from 
which  you  cut  the  vol-au-vent,  accord- 
ing to  the  size  you  require  it,  the  smaller 
ones  of  course  requiring  thinner  paste. 
A  vol-au-vent  for  entrees  will  take  about 
half  an  hour  to  bak%  and  as  the  common 
iron  ovens  often  throw  out  more  heat 
upon  one  side  than  the  other,  it  will  re- 
quire turning  two  or  three  times  to  cause 
it  to  rise  equally ;  it  ought  to  be  when 
baked  of  a  light  gold  color. 

Vol-au-  Vent  of  Peaches. — Put  half  a 
pound  of  sugar  in  a  sugar-pan,  with  the 
juice  of  a  lemon  and  about  half  a  pint  of 
water,  place  it  upon  the  fire,  and  boil  it 
till  becoming  a  thickish  syrup ;  then  have 
eight  peaches  not  quite  ripe,  which  cut 
in  halves,  break  their  stones  and  blanch 
the  kernels,  throw  six  halves  with  the 
kernels  into  the  syrup,  boil  three  minutes, 
take  them  out  with  a  skimmer,  lay  them 
upon  a  dish,  and  take  off  their  skins, 
stew  the  rest  in-  syrup  in  like  manner, 
four  at  a  time ;  when  all  done  pour  what 
liquor  runs  from  them  again  into  the 
syrup,  which  reduce  to  a  good  thickness, 


VOL-AU-VENT — TAETS. 


<*    431 


pass  it  through  a  tammy  into  a  basin, 
when  cold  pour  a  little  over  the  peaches, 
and  leave  until  ready  to  serve ;  dress  the 
peaches  in  your  vol-au-vent  with  the 
syrup  over. 

Vol-au-vent  with  Fruit. — These  do  not 
require  to  be  so  high  as  the  other,  es- 
pecially as  the  fruit  ought  to  be  dressed 
in  the  form  of  a  pyramid ;  if  they  are  cut 
about  three-quarters  of  an  inch  in  thick- 
ness it  will  be  enough  ;  when  nearly  done, 
sift  some  powdered  sugar  over  them,  and 
put  it  back  in  the  oven  to  glaze  well ;  if 
not  hot  enough  use  the  salamander ;  re- 
move the  interior,  taking  care  not  to 
make  a  hole  in  the  bottom  or  sides,  and 
fill  with  any  kind  of  fruit  you  like,  but 
never  mix  two  kinds  together,  except 
currant  and  raspberry. 

Sweet  Vol-au-  Vent  with  Rhubarb. — 
In  the  spring  of  the  year  this  makes  a 
very  inviting  and  wholesome  dish,  and  its 
qualities  purify  the  blood,  which  the 
winter's  food  has  rendered  gross ;  cut 
about  twelve  sticks  of.(  rhubarb  into 
lengths  of  one  inch,  put  it  in  a  stewpan 
holding  about  two  quarts,  put  over  it  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar,  and  a  table- 
spoonful  of  Vater,  set  it  on  a  sharp  fire, 
stirring  it ;  do  not  let  it  get  brown,  or  it 
would  spoil,  and  lose  its  flavor ;  it  will 
take  but  a  few  minutes  to  do ;  when  ten- 
der, put  it  in  a  basin  to  cool ;  a  few  min- 
utes before  serving  fill  the  vol-au-vent 
with  it,  and  serve  cold. 

Sweet  Vol-au-vent  with  green  Goose- 
lerries. — A  quart  of  green  gooseberries, 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar, 
the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  and  a  table- 
spoonful  of  water ;  put  on  the  fire  and 
move  it  about  for  ten  minutes,  or  till 
tender,  and  forming  a  thick  green  mar- 
malade ;  put  it  in  a  basin  till  cold ;  serve 
in  pyramid  in  the  vol-au-vent ;  a  little 
thick  syrup,  if  handy,  poured  over,  im- 
proves the  appearance. 

Sweet    Vol-au-vent    with    Orange. — 


Well  peel  six  oranges,  removing  all  tho 
pith,  divide  each  into  six  or  eight  pieces, 
put  them  in  a  pan,  with  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  sugar,  and  the  juice  of  an  orange, 
set  it  on  a  slow  fire,  with  the  cover  on, 
stir  it  now  and  then — ten  minutes  will 
be  sufficient  time  for  it ;  take  out  the 
pieces  one  after  the  other,  lay  them  in  a 
basin,  reduce  your  syrup  to  a  proper 
thickness;  when  ready  to  serve,  dish 
your  pieces  of  orange  in  it,  and  pour  over 
the  syrup. 

1276.-COCOA-NUT  CUSTAKD. 

Boil  one  quart  of  milk,  when  it  boils 
sift  in  three  table- spoonfuls  of  farina. 
Take  off  the  fire,  stir  in  one-quarter  of  a 
pound  of  butter,  and  let  it  stand  until 
quite  cold.  Beat  six  eggs,  the  yolks  and 
whites  separate,  until  very  light ;  add  to 
the  yolks  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of 
sugar,  and  the  grated  pulp  of  one  cocoa- 
nut.  Stir  the  mixture  into  the  boiled 
milk,  add  the  beaten  whites  of  the  eggs, 
line  tin  pie  plates  with  a  nice  crust,  fill 
with  the  mixture,  and  bake. 

,  1277.— SMALL  FEUTT  TAETS. 
The  next  in  order  to  sweet  vol-au- 
vents,  and  which  are  easier  to  make,  are 
tartlets,  their  appearance  being  inviting, 
and  their  expense  limited,  and  very  easj 
to  serve.  They  may  be  made  from  the 
trimmings  of  any  puff  paste  which  re- 
mains, and  should  be  enveloped  in  paper, 
and  kept  in  a  cold  place,  or  in  the  flour- 
tub.  Make  them  as  follows  : — Have 
ready  twelve  or  more  small  tartlet  pans, 
which  butter,  line  each  with  a  bit  of 
puff  paste  cut  with  a  cutter  the  size  of  a 
crown-piece,  force  up  the  edges  with 
your  thumb  and  finger,  put  a  small  ball 
(made  of  flour  and  water)  in  each,  bake 
them  nicely  in  a  very  hot  oven;  when 
done,  take  out  the  ball  (which  may  be 
kept  for  other  occasions)  from  the  tart- 
lets, and  shake  powdered  sugar  over  the 
bottom  of  each,  and  glaze  with  a 


432 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


mander,  turn  them  over,- and  shake  sugar 
in  the  interior,  which  also  salamander ; 
fill  with  any  kind  of  preserve,  marmal- 
ade, or  fruit,  for  sweet  vol-au-vents. 
They  may  be  made  with  cream  as  fol- 
lows : — Make  your  tartlets  as  before, 
placing  cream  instead  of  the  ball  of  flour, 
made  thus : — Put  half  a  pint  of  milk  in 
a  stewpan,  when  boiling,  add  half  a  stick 
of  vanilla,  reduce  the  milk  to  half  in 
another  stewpan,  have  the  yolks  of  two 
eggs  and  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  pow- 
dered sugar,  and  one  ounce  of  sifted  flour, 
with  a  grain  of  salt,  pour  in  the  milk, 
taking  out  the  vanilla,  place  over  a  slow 
fire,  keep  stirring  till  it  thickens  ;  when 
cold,  fill  the  tartlets,  and  bake  nicely  in 
a  moderate  oven ;  when  cold,  add  a  little 
jam,  have  ready  a  meringue  of  four  eggs, 
lay  a  teaspoonful  of  each  upon  them, 
spreading  it  quite  flat  with  a  knife ;  orna- 
ment the  top  with  some  of  the  mixture, 
put  into  a  paper  cornet,  sift  sugar  over, 
place  in  a  slow  oven  till  a  light  brown 
colpr,  and  the  meringue  quite  crisp ;  if 
the  oven  be  too  hot,  cover  with  pa- 
per dress,  and  serve  in  pyramid  on  a 
disiv  They  should  be  light-colored. 

1278.— LEMON  TAETLET8. 

Pare,  rather  thick,  the  rinds  of  four 
lemons,  which  boil  tender  in  two  waters, 
and  beat  fine ;  add  to  it  four  ounces  of 
blanched  almonds  cut  thin,  four  ounces 
of  lump-sugar,  the  juice  of  the  lemons, 
and  a  little  grated  peel ;  simmer  to  a 
syrup ;  when  cold,  turn  it  into  a  shallow 
tin  tart  dish  lined  with  a  rich  thin  puff 
paste,  and  lay  bars  of  paste  over ;  as 
soon  as  the  paste  is  baked,  serve  it. 

1279.— GREEN  APRICOT  TARTLETS. 
When  the  wall-fruit  trees  are  thinned, 
take  the  thinnings  before  the  stone  is 
formed  ;  stew  them  gently  in  sugar  and 
water.  When  tender,  reduce  and  thicken 
the  syrup,  and  put  it  with  the  fruit  into 


pattypans ;  or,  if  covered  with  a  paste, 
it  is  then  called  a  pie.  This  also  applies 
to  grapes. 

1280.— PRUNE  TART. 

• 

Give  prunes  a  scald,  take  out  the 
stones  and  break  them ;  put  the  kernels 
into  a  little  cranberry-juice,  with  the 
prunes  and  sugar:  simmer,  and  when 
cold  make  a  tart  of  the  sweetmeat. 

It  must  be  almost  needless  to  say  that 
tartlets  of  damsons,  plums,  and  most  sorts 
of  stone-fruit,  may  be  made  hi  the  same 
manner,. 

1281.— TARTLETS  1  LA  PAGANINI. 

Beat  up  the  whites  of  three  eggs  to  a 
froth,  and  then  add  five  ounces  of  pound- 
ed sugar ;  beat  it  well  up,  and  have  your 
pattypans  ready  covered  with  paste,  upon 
which  put  any  quantity  you  please  of 
jam  or  marmalade ;  bake  them  for  about 
a  half  an  hour,  and  when  done  fill  them 
with  the  whip.  This  quantity  will  fill 
sixteen  pattypans  of  a  small  size. 

*• 

1282.— TO  PREPARE  CRANBERRIES  FOR 
TARTS. 

Simmer  them  in  moist  sugar,  without 
Breaking,  twenty  minutes ;  and  let  them 
become  cold  before  being  used.  A  pint 
will  require  nearfy  three  ounces  of  sugar. 

1283.— ALMOND  PASTE. 

Take  a  pound  of  sweet  almonds,  blanch 
them  in  boiling  water ;  take  off  the  peel, 
and  let  them  soak  in  cold  water  four 
lours,  then  pound  them  well  in  a  mortar ; 
add  a  little  water  to  prevent  them  from 
turning  to  oil ;  after  they  are  very  fine 
and  quite  in  a  paste,  put  in  three-quarters 
of  a  pound  of  sugar  well  pounded,  and 
mix  all  together  in  the  mortar.  If  your 
paste  is  quite  fine,  take  it  out  of  the  "mor- 
ar,  put  it  into  a  stewpan  over  a  slow 
ire,  and  stir  it  with  a  wooden  spoon  till 
t  becomes  white  and  dry  ;  then  put  ft 
again  into  the  mortar,  and  mix  with  it  a 


TARTS. 


433 


little  melted  gum  that  has  been  strained 
through  a  towel ;  take  care  to  keep  it 
covered,  to  prevent  it  drying.  You 
may  give  what  scent  you  please,  as  lemon, 
vanilla,  rose,  orange,  &c.  &c.  If  you  use 
almond-paste  to  make  vases,  baskets,  or 
tartlets,  keep  -it  always  free  from  dust, 
spread  it  on  a  marble  with  a  rolling-pin 
as  thin  as  possible,  and  if  you  put  it  into 
a  mould,  butter  the  mould  lightly,  and 
give  the  paste  the  form  of  it.  Bake  in  a 
moderate  oven. 

Almond-paste  should  always  be  kept 
in  a  gallipot,  covered  with  a  damp  towel 
to  prevent  its  drying. 

1284-TAETLETS  OF  ALMOND  PASTE. 

Butter  some  tartlet-moulds,  and  after 
having  spread  the  paste  on  the  dresser, 
cut  it  with  a  cutter  to  the  size  of  the 
moulds;  put  a  little  sweetmeat  in  the 
middle,  and  a  small  rosette  in  the  middle 
of  that.  Bake  in  a  moderate  oven. 

1285.-TAETLETS  OF  ALMOND  PASTE  WITH 
STEAWBEEEIES. 

Spread  some  almond-paste  over  the 
pastry-table,  and  cut  it  with  a  fluted 
cutter  the  same  size  as  other  tartlets ; 
butter  slightly  the  moulds,  and  put  them 
into  a  moderate  oven.  When  the  paste 
is  done  almost  white,  take  them  out  of 
the  mould,  and  garnish  with  currant 
jelly,  raspberry  or  apricot  jam,  &c.  &c. 
When  the  sweetmeats  do  not  go  to  the 
oven,  tbey  are  always  of  a  better  color 
and  taste. 

1286.— APEICOT    SWEETMEAT  FOE  TAETS. 

Take  a  pound  of  ripe  apricots,  remove 
the  stones,  break  them  and  blanch  the 
kernels,  add  one  pound  and  a  half  of 
green  gages  and  one  pound  and  a  quarter 
of  lump  sugar ;  simmer  it  until  the  fruit 
becomes  a  jam.  It  must  not  boil,  and 
must  be  kept  well  skimmed ;  clarified 
sugar  will  be  found  the  best  to  use  for 
this  preserve. 


1287.— GOOSEBEEEY  (GBEEN)  TAET. 

Use  either  whole  gooseberries,  or  make 
a  marmalade  of  them  with  a  good  syrup ; 
the  last  method  is  perhaps  the  best,  as 
you  can  tell  easily  how  sweet  they  are 
and  ought  to  be ;  if  made  of  marmalade 
the  seeds  ought  to  be  taken  out.  Green 
currants  and  grapes  the  same  way. 

1288.— OEANGE  TAETS. 

Take  some  oranges,  pare  them  very 
thin,  soak  them  in  water  for  two  or  three 
days,  changing  the  water  often,  then  boil 
them  till  they  become  soft  and  lose  their 
bitterness ;  when  cold  cut  a  thick  slice 
off  the  top  and  bottom,  and  the  rest  the 
thickness  of  a  crown  piece  ;  line  the  tart- 
let-pans with  puff  paste,  and  fill  them 
with  layers  of  sugar  and  orange  alter- 
nately. 

Pears,  raspberries,  cherries,  &c.,  are 
simply  put  into  the  paste  with  sugar,  and 
baked. 

1289.— CEOTJSTADE  OE  DEESDEN  PATTIES. 

Slice  some  stale  bread  about  half  an 
inch  thick ;  cut  from  it,  with  a  round 
paste-cutter,  as  many  croustades  as  will 
be  required:  mark  the  centres  with  a 
smaller  cutter,  scoop  out  the  insides  as  in 
paste  patties,  then  fry  them  a  light 
brown,  drain  them  well,  and  fill  them 
with  any  hot  compote  of  fruit  or  hot  pre- 
serve. The  croustade  may  be  filled  with 
any  sort  of  minced  meat  or  fowl  and 
served  as  an  entree  in  the  first  course. 
They  are  very  nice  made  with  the  rounds 
of  a  French  roll;  it  should  be  pared 
very  thin,  then  cut  in  rounds  of  such 
thickness,  as  to  allow  the  centres  to  be 
taken  out;  dip  them  in  milk,  and  let 
them  drain  ;  do  not  let  them  break ;  brush 
them  with  egg,  and  sift  the  rasping  of 
the  roll  over  them;  fry  them  a  pale 
brown,  and  fill  with  oysters,  stewed 
mushrooms,  &c.,  or,  as  above,  with  fruit 
or  preserve. 


434 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


1290.— PATTIES  KESEMBLING  MINCE  PIES. 

Chop  the  kidney  and  fat  of  cold  veal, 
apple,  orange,  and  lemon-peel  candied, 
fresh  currants,  a  little  wine,  two  or  three 
cloves,  a  little  brandy,  and  a  bit  of  sugar. 
Bake  as  before. 

1291.-PATTIES  WITH  CUKDS. 

Take  some  very  rich  milk,  put  into  it 
some  lemon-juice  or  vinegar,  place  it  on 
the  fire  that  it  may  curdle,  drain  off  the 
whey  through  a,  sieve  ;  add  to  the  curds 
the  yolk  of  an  egg  beaten  up  in  two 
spoonfuls  of  milk,  a  few  currants,  and  a 
little  pounded  cinnamon.  Make  the 
paste  and  prepare  the  patties  in  the  same 
way  as  in  the  preceding  receipt. 

1292.— CHEESECAKES. 

Strain  the  whey  from  the  curd  of  two 
quarts  of  milk  ;  when  rather  dry  crumble 
it  through  a  coarse  sieve,  and  mix  with 
six  ounces  of  fresh  butter,  one  ounce  .of 
pounded  blanched  almonds,  a  little 
orange-flower  water,  half  a  glass  of 
raisin  wine,  a  grated  biscuit,  four  ounces 
of  currants,  some  nutmeg  and  cinnamon 
in  fine  powder,  and  beat  all  the  above 
with  three  eggs  and  half  a  pint  of  cream 
till  quite  light :  then  line  the  pattypans 
with  a  thin  puff  paste,  and  fill  them  three 
parts  full. 

1293.— BEEAD  CHEESECAKES. 

Slice  a  loaf  as  thin  as  possible,  pour  on 
it' a  pint  of  boiling  cream,  let  it  stand 
two  hours  ;  then  take  eight  eggs,  half  a 
pound  of  butter  and  a  nutmeg  gratedj 
beat  them  well  together,  put  in  half  a 
pound  of  currants  well  washed  and  dried 
before  the  fire,  and  bake  them  in  raised 
crusts  or  pattypans. 

1294.— MISS  BKATTY'S  CHEESECAKES. 

The  yolks  of  eight  eggs,  eight  ounces 
of  sugar  finely  powdered  and  sifted,  eight 
ounces  of  sweet  almonds  powdered,  beat 


all  together  till  very  white.  Line  the 
pans  with  a  thin  paste;  immediately  be- 
fore you  put  them  into  the  oven,  mix  the 
size  of  a  walnut  of  butter  melted  into 
them  over  a  fire.  If  the  oven  be  too  hot, 
they  will  fall  when  taken  out. 

Or: — Ten  eggs,  leave  -out  half  the 
whites,  one  pound  of  sugar  finely  pow- 
dered and  sifted,  half  a  pound  of  flour, 
three  ounces  of  butter,  three  ounces  of 
sweet  almonds,  with  a  glass  of  brandy 
put  into  them  while  they  are  pounding. 
Beat  them  all  together,  and  butter  the 
pans  very  well.  * 

1295.— LEMON  CHEESECAKES. 

Mix  four  ounces  of  gifted  lump  sugar 
and  four  ounces  of  butter,  and  gently 
melt  it ;  then  add  the  yolks  of  two  and 
the  white  of  one  egg,  the  rind  of  three 
lemons  shred  fine,  and  the  juice  of  one 
and  a  half,  one  Savoy  biscuit,  some 
blanched  almonds  pounded,  three  spoon- 
fuls of  brandy. 

1296.— ORANGE  CHEESECAKES. 

When  you  have  blanched  half  a  pound 
of  almonds,  beat  them  very  fine,  with 
orange-flower  water,  half  a  pound  of  fine 
sugar  beaten  and  sifted,  and  one  pound 
of  butter  that  has  been  melted  carefully 
without  oiling,  and  which  must  be  nearly 
cold  before  you  use  it;  then  beat  the 
yolks  of  ten  and  whites  of  four  eggs ; 
pound  two  candied  oranges,  and  a  fresh 
one  with  the  bitterness  boiled  out,  till 
as  tender  as  marmalade',  without  any 
lumps ;  beat  the  whole  together,  and  put 
into  pattypans. 

1297.— ALMOND  CHEESECAKES. 

Press  the  whey  from  as  much  turd  as 
will  fill  two  dozen  small  pattypans ;  then 
put  it  on  the  back  of  a  sieve,  and  with  half 
an  ounce  of  butter,  rub  it  through  with 
the  back  of  a  spoon ;  put  to  it  six  yolks 
and  three  whites  of  eggs,  and  a  few  al- 


CHEESECAKES. 


435 


monds  of  both  sorts  pounded,  with  as 
much  sugar  as  will  make  the  curd  pro- 
perly sweet;  mix  with  these  a  wine- 
glassful  of  sherry  or  Madeira,  in  which 
boil  the  rind  of  a  Seville  orange,  if  }rou 
can  get  one  ;  or,  if  not,  a  large  ripe  one 
of  the  common  kind,  with  all  its  juice. 
Beat  all  gradually  together,  and  when 
thoroughly  blended  fill  the  pattypans ; 
the  baking  will  take  from  a  quarter  of 
an  hour  to  twenty  minutes. 

1298.— POTATO  CHEESECAKE. 

Four  ounces  of  butter,  the  same  of 
pounded  sugar,  six  ounces  of  potatoes 
boiled  and  floured  through  a  sieve,  the 
rind  of  one  lemon,  and  half  the  juice, 
unless  acid  is  desirable;  mix  these  in- 
gredients well  together,  with  two  eggs, 
and  fill  the  tart-pan  and  bake  it.' 

Potato  Clmse  is  celebrated  in  various 
parts  of  Europe.  It  is  made  thus : — 
Boil  good  white  potatoes,  and  when  cool, 
peel  them  and  rasp  or  mash  them  to  a 
light  pulp ;  to  five  pounds  of  this,  which 
must  be  free  from  lumps,  add  a  pint  of 
sour  milk  and  salt  to  taste ;  knead  the 
whole  well,  cover  it,  and  leave  it  for  three 
or  four  days,  according  to  the  season ; 
then  knead  it  afresh,  and  put  the  cheeses 
into  small  baskets,  when  they  will  part 
with  their  superfluous  moisture;  dry 
them  in  the  shade,  and  place  them  in 
layers  in  large  pots  or  kegs,  where  they 
may  remain  a  fortnight.  The  older  they 
are,  the  finer  they  become.  This  cheese, 
it  is  said,  never  engenders  worms,  and 
in  well  closed  vessels,  in  a  dry  place, 
will  keep  for  years.  (This  receipt  is 
from  an  old  English  work). 

1299.— CHEESECAKE-STOCK,  THAT  WILL 
KEEP  FOE  SEVERAL  YEAES. 

To  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter  put 
one  pound  of  loaf-sugar  broken  into  small 
pieces,  six  eggs,  leaving  out  two  whites, 
the  rind  of  three  lemons  grated,  and  the 


juice  of  three ;  put  them  all  into  a  pan, 
and  let  them  simmer  over  the  fire  until 
the  sugar  is  dissolved,  and  it  begins  to 
thicken  like  honey.  When  cold  put  it 
into  sweetmeat  pots  for  use.  When 
»made  into  cheesecakes,  add  grated  sweet 
biscuits. 

Line  the  small  tartlet  pans  used  for 
these  small  cakes  with  good,  but  not  too 
light,  puff-paste :  make  them  of  a  deep 
yellow  color,  and  put  on  each  a  strip  of 
candied  citron. 

1300.— ICING  FOE  FETJIT  PIE»  AND 
TAETS. 

The  common  mode  is  to  take  the  white 
of  an  egg,  whisked  to  a  froth,  mixed 
thickly  with  pounded  sugar,  and  laid  on 
with  a  quill  feather.  For  larger  tarts  it 
should,  however,  be  laid  on  more  thickly, 
and  comfits  or  lemon-peel  may  be  stuck 
into  it. 

1301.— SOYEE'S  CHEESECAKES. 

Take  four  quarts  of  milk  and  turn  it 
with  some  fresh  runnet ;  when  dry  crum- 
ble it  and  sift  it  through  a  coarse  sieve 
into  a  bowl,  beat  it  well  up  with  a  quar- 
ter of  a  pound  of  butter  until  it  is  quite 
smooth  (it  may  require  a  little  more 
butter,  depending  on  the  quality  of  the 
milk) ;  mix  in  another  bowl  the  yolks  of 
four  eggs  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
very  fine  sifted  biscuit-powder,  the  rind 
of  four  lemons,  the  juice  of  two,  a  quar- 
ter of  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar  (some 
add  a  little  grated  nutmeg  or  cinnamon), 
beat  these  all  well  up  together  until  form- 
ing a  stiff  cream,  then  put  it  by  degrees 
into  the  bowl  with  curd,  and  mix  them 
well  together;  line  some  tartlet  pans, 
previously  buttered,  with  some  paste, 
and  place  some  of  the  above  mixture  in, 
and  bake  quick.  In  some  places  milk  is 
used  instead  of  eggs.  Should  you  not 
have  rennet,  procure  some  good  milk 
and  turn  it  with  the  juice  of  a  lemon  or 
a  teaspoonful  of  soda  or  culinary  alkali 


436 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


to  a  quart  of  milk  ;  drain  the  curd,  and 
proceed  as  before.   . 

1302.-RICHMOND  MAIDS  OF  HONOR. 

These  delicious  little  cakes,  which 
every  inhabitant  of  London  who  pays  a 
visit  to  the  most  picturesque  part  of  its 
environs  knows  so  well,  derive  their 
name  from  a  period  when  cookery  was 
not  thought  to  be  a  degrading  occupation 
for  those  honored  with  that  title.  It 
is  stated  that  they  originated  with  the 
maids  of  honor  of  Queen  Elizabeth,  who 
had  a  palace  at  Richmond. 

Sift  half  a  pound  of  dry  curd,  mix  it 
well  with  six  ounces  of  good  butter, 
break  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  into  another 
basin,  and  a  glass  of  brandy ;  add  to  it 
six  ounces  of  powdered  lump-sugar,  and 
beat  well  together  one  very  floury 
baked  potato  cold,  one  ounce  of  sweet 
almonds,  one  ounce  of  bitter  ditto 
pounded,  the  grated  rind  of  three  lemons, 
the  juice  of  one,  and  half  a  nutmeg 
grated,  mix  these  well  together  and  add 
to  the  curds  and  butter ;  stir  well  up, 
and  proceed  as  before,  filling  the  tartlet- 
pans.  * 

1303.— PUDDINGS. 

There  are  two  different  sorts  of  paste 
for  puddings,  one  for  meat  and  the  other 
for  fruit. 

For  Meat  Pudding. — To  one  pound 
of  flour  add  eight  ounces  of  finely  chop- 
ped beef-suet  cut  from  the  kidney.  Mix 
it  with  water  but  do  not  wet  it  too  much : 
after  mixing  it  well  together  with  a 
wooden  spoon,  roll  out  the  paste  and  put 
in  the  meat ;  then  close  it ;  boil  it  in  a 
cloth  which  has  been  floured,  tie  it  up, 
but  leave  sufficient  room  to  permit  the 
swelling  of  the  paste. 

Veal-suet  may  also  be  used,  but  that 
of  beef  is  better ;  or  a  mixture  of  both 
is  not  bad.  If  puddings  be  boiled  in 
shapes,  the  crust  is  not  near  so  light. 


For  Fruit  Puddings  the  paste  should 
be  made  as  for  a  pie — using  butter  instead 
of  suet ;  but.  unless  for  the  sake  of  ap- 
pearance, they  should  never  be  boiled  in 
shapes.  A  very  little  salt  added  to  all 
paste  much  improves  it. 

Sweet  Pudding. — Very  good  puddings 
may  be  made  without  eggs j  but  they 
should  have  very  little  liquid  added  to 
them,  and  must  boil  longer  than  puddings 
with  eggs.  A  spoonful  of  yeast  will" 
serve  instead  of  two  eggs,  and  a  pinch  of 
soda  will  make  it  still  lighter.  Two 
large  spoonfuls  of  snow  will  supply  the 
place  of  one  egg,  and  make  a  pudding 
equally  good.  This  is  a  useful  piece  of 
information,  as  snow  generally  falls  in 
the  season  when  eggs  are  dear.  The 
sooner  it  is  used  after  it  falls  the  bettor ; 
but  it  may  be  taken  up  from  a  clean  spot, 
and  kept  in  a  cool  place  some  hours, 
without  losing  its  good  qualities.  Bot- 
tled malt-liquors  are  also  a  good  substi- 
tute for  eggs ;  the  sooner  used  after  the 
cork  is  drawn  the  better.  Eggs  should 
always  be  broken  separately  into  a  cup 
before  they  are  thrown  together,  as  a 
single  bad  one  might  occasion  the  loss  of 
a  great  many  without  this  precaution : 
the  yolks  and  whites,  beaten  long  and 
separately,  make  the  article  they  are  put 
into  much  lighter.  They  must  alwaj^s 
be  strained  after  beating. 

To  avoid  repetition,  let  it  be  observed 
that,  when  pudding  sauce  is  ordered, 
wine,  sugar,  and  very  thick  melted  but- 
ter, boiled  up  together,  is  the  sauce  in- 
tended. 

If  the  pudding  be  partly  of  bread,  the 
cloth  should  be  tied  so  as  to  allow  for 
swelling ;  if  of  flour,  rather  more  tight. 

Basins  or  forms  are  much  better  in  ap- 
pearance than  cloths  for  boiling  puddings, 
but  it  makes  them  far  less  light. 

The  water  should  boil  quickly,  when 
the  pudding  is  put  in,  and  care  taken 
that  it  continues  to  do  so,  or  the  pudding 


SAYOET   PUDDINGS. 


437 


will  be  heavy ;  and  it  should  be  moved 
about  for  a  minute  or  two,  that  the  in- 
gredients may  not  separate. 

All  dishes  in  which  puddings  are  bak- 
ed should  be  lined  with  paste  an  inch  or 
two  below  the  edge,  as  well  as  on  it ;  the 
dish  must  be  first  rubbed  with  butter. 
If  a  pudding  is  to  be  turned  out  from  a 
mould,  it  must  be  entirely  lined  with 
paste. 

The  ingredients  of  puddings  should 
not  be  put  into  the  basin  or  dish  till  the 
minute  they  go  into  the  water  or  oven. 

Sago,  and  all  sorts  of  seeds,  should  lie 
ji  water  an  hour  before  they  are  made 
into  puddings,  and  be  well  washed ;  the 
want  of  this  caution  causes  an  earthy 
taste. 

If  the  butter  be  strong  that  is  used  in 
puddings,  they  will  not  taste  well,  what- 
ever good  things  are  added. 

A  small  pinch  of  salt  improves  the 
flavor  of  all  mixtures,  even  when  the  other 
ingredients  are  sweet. 

Well-made  raisin  or  Cape  wine  will 
serve,  in  most  cases,  when  wine  is  order- 
ed for  puddings. 

As  the  goodness  of  boiled  puddings 
greatly  depends  upon  keeping  the  in- 
gredients closely  but  not  too  compactly 
together,  the  cook  should  take  care  to 
have  moulds  and  basins  in  readiness 
that  will  exactly  hold  the  quantity  di- 
rected. 

Puddings  of  bread  or  flour  are  much 
better  if  all  the  ingredients  be  mixed  (ex- 
cept the  eggs)  three  hours  before  boiling 
or  baking ;  and  they  should  be  well  stir- 
red just  before  they  are  put  into  the  oven 
or  saucepan. 

Plum-puddings  are  best  boiled  in  a 
stout  cloth  well  floured ;  care  should  be 
taken  that  it  does  not  burn  to  the  bottom 
of  the  kettle ;  to  prevent  this  put  a  plate 
at  the  bottom.  When  the  pudding  is  of 
a  large  size  it  is  best  to  mix  all  but  the 
liquid  ingredients  the  day  before  it  is 
boiled. 

28 


When  butter  is  ordered  to  be  put 
warm  into  puddings,  the  addition  of  a 
little  milk  or  wine  will  prevent  its 
oiling. 

Custard  Puddings  to  look  well  should 
simmer  only,  but  without  stopping.  If 
boiled  in  a  quick  or  careless  manner  the 
surface  will  not  be  smooth,  but  have  little 
holes  like  honey-comb  all  over  it.  A 
sheet  of  writing-paper,  thickly  buttered, 
should  be  put  on  the  top  of  the  mould 
before  the  lid  or  cloth  is  put  on.  and  the 
pudding  should  stand  in  the  mould  five 
minutes  after  being  lifted  from  the  water. 
Many  persons  prefer  their  puddings 
steamed,  but  when  this  is  not  done  they 
shonld  be  put  into  plenty  of  boiling 
water,  and  kept  well  covered. 

Half  an  hour  should  be  allowed  for 
boiling  a  ^read-pudding  in  a  half-pint 
basin,  and  so  on  in  proportion ;  but  pud- 
dings made  up  with  half  a  pound  of  suet 
and  any  other  ingredients,  will  require 
two  hours. 

1304.— SUET  PUDDINGS. 

Finely  chop  one  pound  of  beef  suet ; 
mix  with  it  one  pound  and  a  quarter  of 
flour,  two  eggs  well  beaten,  a  little  salt, 
and  as  little  milk  as  will  mix  it.  Boil 
four  hours.  It  eats  well  next  day  cut  in 
slices  and  fried,  and  may  be  eaten  either 
with  salt  or  sugar. 

Or : — Take  eight  ounces  of  grated 
bread,  three  ounces  of  finely  chopped 
suet,  and  four  ounces  of  pounded  loaf- 
sugar,  the  juice  and  grated  peel  of  two 
lemons,  and  one  egg  well  beaten ;  mix  all 
together;  put  it  into  a  buttered  basin, 
and  boil  one  hour ;  or  make  it  into  dump- 
lings, and  boil  twenty  minutes.  Serve 
with  wine  sauce. 

Of  teal-suet,  cut  the  crumb x  of  a 
loaf  into  slices;  boil  and  sweeten  two 
quarts  of  new  milk,  and  pour  over 
it.  When  soaked,  pour  out  a  little  of 
the  milk,  and  mix  with  six  eggs  well 


438 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


beaten  and  half  a  nutmeg.  Lay  the 
slices  of  bread  into  a  dish,  with  layers  of 
currants  and  finely  chopped  veal-suet, 
one  pound  of  each.  Butter  the  dish 
well,  and  bake ;  or  you  may  boil  it  in  a 
basin  if  you  prefer  it. 

Balls  of  suet-pudding,  not  larger  than 
the  size  of  an  egg,  are  put  into  gravy 
soup.  They  will  take  from  twenty  min- 
utes to  half  an  hour  boiling ;  in  that  time 
they  will  be  done  through,  and  so  light  as 
to  swim  to  the  top.  They  may  be  also 
served  separately,  and  are  an  excellent 
accompaniment  to  corned  beef. 

1805— BAKED  CHICKEN  PUDDING. 

Cut  up  a  pair  of  young  chickens,  and 
season  them  with  pepper  and  salt,  a  little 
nutmeg  and  allspice.  Put  them  into  a 
pot  with  two  large  spoonfuls  of  butter, 
and  water  enough  to  cover  them.  Stew 
them  gently,  and  when  about  half  cooked, 
take  them  out  and  set  them  away  to 
cool.  Pour  off  the  gravy,  and  reserve  it 
to  be  served  up  separately.  Make  batter  of 
a  pound  of  sifted  flour,  stirred  gradually 
into  a  quart  of  milk,  six  eggs  well  beaten 
and  added  by  degrees  to  the  mixture  with 
a  very  little  salt.  Put  a  layer  of  chicken 
into  a  very  deep  dish,  and  pour  over  it 
some  of  the  batter ;  then  another  layer 
of  chicken  and  another  of  batter ;  havin 
a  cover  of  batter  at  the  top.  Bake  till 
brown.  Break  an  egg  into  the  reserved 
sauce,  boil  up,  and  serve  it  in  a  sauce 
tureen  to  eat  with  the  pudding. 

1806.— BEEFSTEAK  PUDDING. 

Of  all  savory  puddings  perhaps  those 
made  with  beef  are  the  best.  The  follow- 
ing is  the  mode  of  making  them  in  all  the 
clubs : — 

Take  from  one  pound  to  one  pound  anc 
a  half  of  the  inside  of  a  sirloin  of  beef 
or  the  same  quantity  of  rump -steak 
cutting  off  part  of  the  fat :  beat  it  unti 
tender,  cut  it  thin,  and  divide  it  intc 


small  slices  along  with  two  mutton  kid- 
neys or  one  veal  kidney ;  to  these  add  a 
dozen  of  native  oysters,  bearded.  The 
whole  is  then  seasoned  with  pepper  and 
salt  and  a  minced  shalot.  Boil  it  from 
two  and  a  half  to  three  hours.  When 
done  have  ready  some  strong  beef  gravy, 
made  savory  with  a  little  mushroom  ket- 
chup ;  make  a  hole  in  the  paste  and  pour 
t  into  the  pudding. 

If  for  a  family  pudding,  the  oysters 
and  the  kidneys  may  be  omitted  :  let  the 
steak  be  prepared  as  above,  adding,  if 
you  choose,  some  layers  of  sliced 


onions. 


130T.— PLUM  POEEIDGE. 


Boil  eight  pounds  of  shin  of  beef  for 
five  hours  in  a  gallon  of  water,  skimming 
carefully  throughout,  and  finally  straining 
off  the  liquor;  add  two  pounds  of  meat 
cut  small.  Soften  the  crumb  of  a  small 
loaf  in  some  of  the  liquor,  beat  it  smooth, 
thicken  the  soup  with  it,  add  half  a  pound 
of  stoned  raisins,  the  same  quantity  of 
stoned  prunes,  a  pound  of  well  washed 
currants,  and  grated  nutmeg,  pepper,  and 
mace  to  taste,  and  boil  until  the  fruit  is 
soft,  then  serve. 

1308.— TOEKSHIRE  PUDDING. 

Make  a  batter  with  a  pint  of  milk,  four 
eggs,  and  four  table- spoonfuls  of  flour, 
seasoned  with  salt.  It  is  to  be  well 
stirred,  and  put  into  the  pan  under  roast- 
ing beef  or  baked  beef,  to  be  cooked  with 
the  drippings.  It  will  bake  in  about  two 
hours.  Serve  it  in  pieces  round  the 
meat,  on  the  same  dish. 

1309.— GAME  PUDDINGS. 

Game  of  any  description  may  be  made 
into  puddings,  and  when  partly  boned, 
well  spiced,  with  minced  truffle  or  mush- 
room, mace,  and  a  clove  of  garlic,  and 
boiled  within  a  light  paste,  they  are  very 
rich,  and  the  paste  particularly  fine,  as  it 
absorbs  so  much  of  the  gravy  j  but  the 


SAVOET  PUDDINGS. 


439 


boiling  deprives  the  game  of  much  of  its 
high  flavor,  and  a  woodcock  or  a  snipe 
should  never  be  so  dressed,  as  they  lose 
all  the  savor  of  the  trail. 

Or :  Make  a  batter  with  flour,  milk, 
eggs,  pepper,  and  salt ;  pour  a  little  into 
the  bottom  of  a  pudding-dish  ;  then  put 
seasoned  poultry  or  game  of  any  kind 
into  it,  and  a  little  shred  onion;  pour 
the  remainder  of  the  batter  over,  and 
bake  in  a  slow  oven. 

A  single  chicken,  partridge,  or  pigeon 
may  be  thus  made  into  a  dumpling: — 
Stuff  it  with  chopped  oysters,  lay  it  on 
its  back  in  the  paste,  and  put  a  bit  of 
butter  rolled  in  flour  on  the  breast ;  close 
the  paste  in  the  form  of  a  dumpling,  put 
into  hot  water,  and  let  it  boil  for  two 
hours. 


1310.— MAEEOW  PUDDING. 

Grate  the  inside  of  part  of  a  stale 
loaf.  Make  a  quart  of  milk  quite  hot, 
and  pour  over  it,  letting  it  remain  till  it 
is  sufficiently  swelled  and  soaked.  Shred 
half  a  pound  of  marrow,  or  good  suet, 
and  beat  up  four  eggs.  Pick  and  plump 
up  two  ounces  of  currants,  and  stone  two 
ounces  of  the  best  raisins.  Mix  them  all 
up  together ;  stir  in  a  few  blanched  al- 
monds, and  a  little  candied  citron*  and 
orange  and  lemon  peel.  Sweeten  the 
pudding  to  your  taste,  and  season  it  with 
grated  nutmeg  and  powdered  cinnamon. 
Cover  a  stoneware,  flat  dish,  round  the 
edge,  with  a  shred  of  puff-paste,  and 
mark  it  neatly.  If  baked  in  a  flat  dish, 
twenty-five  minutes  will  be  sufficient ;  if 
in  a  deep  dish  it  will  require  half  an  hour. 
A  little  finely  pounded  lump  sugar  is 
sometimes  strewed  over  the  top,  and 
blanched  almonds,  sliced,  stuck  round  for 
ornament.  This  is  a  very  light  and  de- 
licate baked  pudding.  It  is  sometimes 
boiled  in  a  shape. — This  makes  a  delicious 
dish. 


1811.— HEEB  PUDDING. 

Pick  two  handfuls  of  parsley-leaves 
from  the  stems,  half  the  quantity  of 
spinach,  two  hearts  of  lettuces,  a  large 
handful  of  mustard  and  cress,  a  few 
leaves  of  white  beet,  and  a  small  handful 
of  chives:  wash,  and  boil  all  together 
three  minutes ;  drain  the  water  from 
them,  and  mash  very  fine ;  mix  well,  and 
add  salt  and  pepper.  Have  ready  a 
batter,  made  of  one  ounce  of  flour,  a  pint 
of  thin  cream  and  two  eggs ;  stir  it  into 
the  herbs,  and  cover  the  dish  with  a  good 
crust. 

This  pudding  has  much  the  flavor  of 
omelet ;  and  in  Lent,  when  the  salads  are 
all  coming  into  season,  it  may  be  very 
aptly  brought  to  table  on  fast-days. 

Tansy-Pudding. — Pound  a  handful  of 
green  tansy  in  a  mortar  ;  add  the  juice  to 
a  pint  of  batter  and  bake  it. 

1312.— GOOSE    PUDDING. 

Half  a  pound  of  bread-crumbs  soaked 
in  a  little  boiling  milk,  when  cold,  add 
two  or  three  eggs,  a  little  salt,  pepper, 
marjoram,  and  thyme,  a  spoonful  of  oat- 
meal, a  good  handful  of  suet,  and  an  onion 
chopped  fine.  Spread  it  in  a  dripping- 
pan,  and  bake  it  under  the  goose. 

SWEET    PUDDINGS. 

Under  this  head  the  plum-pudding 
stands  foremost  as  a  truly  national  dish. 
The  following  receipt,  communicated  by 
a  man-cook  of  much  experience,  we  can 
vouch  for  as  an  excellent  way  of  mak- 
ing a 

1818.— EICH  PLUM  PUDDING. 

Stone  carefully  one  pound  of  the  best 
raisins,  wash  and  pick  one  pound  of  cur- 
rants,* chop  very  small  one  pound  of  fresh 

*  The  best  method  of  cleansing  currants  is  to  put 
them  into  a  common  colander,  over  a  pan  with  suf- 
ficient water  to  cover  them,  rub  them  well  between 


440 


THE   PRACTICAL    HOUSEKEEPER. 


beef  suet,  blanch  and  chop  small  or  pound 
two  ounces  of  sweet  almonds  and  one 
ounce  of  bitter  ones ;  mix  the  whole  well 
together,  with  one  pound  of  sifted  flour, 
and  the  same  weight  of  crumb  of  bread 
soaked  in  milk,  then  squeezed  dry  and 
stirred  with  a  spoon  until  reduced  to  a 
mash,  before  it  is  mixed  with  the  flour. 
Cut  in  small  pieces  two  ounces  each  of 
preserved  citron,  orange,  and  lemon-peel, 
and  add  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  mixed 
spice :  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  moist 
sugar  should  be  put  into  a  basin,  with 
eight  eggs,  and  well  beaten  together  with 
a  three-pronged  fork ;  stir  this  with  the 
pudding,  and  make  it  of  a  proper  con- 
sistence with  milk.  Remember  that  it 
must  not  be  made  too  thin,  or  the  fruit 
will  sink  to  the  bottom,  but  be  made  to 
the  consistence  of  good  thick  batter. 
Two  wine-glassfuls  of  brandy  should  be 
poured  over  the  fruit  and  spice,  mixed 
together  in  a  basin,  and  allowed  to  stand 
three  or  four  hours  before  the  pudding  is 
made,  stirring  them  occasionally.  It 
must  be  tied  in  a  cloth,  and  will  take 
five  hours  of  constant  boiling.  When 
done,  turn  it  out  on  a  dish,  sift  loaf-sugar 
over  the  top,  and  serve  it  with  wine-sauce 
in  a  boat,  and  some  poured  round  the 
pudding. 

The  pudding  will  be  of  considerable 
size,  but  half  the  quantity  of  materials 
used  in  the  same  proportion,  will  be 
equally  good. 

In  addition  to  the  wine-sauce,  have  a 
metal  sauce-boat  filled  with  brandy  ;  set 
it  alight  on  the  table,  and  pour  a  portion 
of  it  in  a  flame  upon  each  slice  of  pud- 
ding. 

1314.-ENGLI8H   PLUM  PUDDING.  (Original)- 

One  pound  of  fine  white  flour,  sifted ; 

the  hands  in  the  water  to  separate  the  knobs,  and 
Btir  them  about.  The  small  sand  and  gravel  -will 
then  fall  through  the  holes  and  sink  to  the  bottom 
of  the  pan.  After  being  washed  clean,  and  the 
water  drained  from  them,  the  large  stones  can  then 
be  easily  picked  out  by  sorting  them  over  on  a  large 
dish. 


add  a  little  salt ;  one  pound  of  beef  suet 
chopped  as  fine  as  meal,  one  pound  of 
brown  sugar,  one  pound  of  stoned  rai- 
sins, one  pound  of  Z ante  currants,  three- 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  citron,  one  nut- 
meg, one  teaspoonful  of  allspice,  one 
ditto  of  cloves,  two  ditto  of  mace,  grate 
in  the  rind  of  three  large  fresh  lemons. 
Weigh  each  article  after  it  is  prepared, 
allowing  for  the  moisture  in  the  currants, 
as  they  cannot  be  dried  perfectly.  Mix 
the  ingredients  together  very  thorough- 
ly; first,  the  flour  and  suet — then  add 
the  other  articles  and  rub  the  mixture 
again ;  this  should  be  done  the  day  be- 
fore the  pudding  is  to  be  cooked. 

Immediately  before  the  final  mixture, 
add  ten  eggs,  well  beaten,  one  gill  of 
milk  and  one  of  brandy.  Tie  the  mix- 
ture in  a  well  buttered  cloth,  and  boil 
for  seven  hours.  The  cloth  used  should 
be  very  strong. 

To  be  served  with  brandy-sauce,  and 
brought  to  the  table  in  burning  brandy. 

1815.— THE  BAKED  PLUM  PUDDING. 

Ten  crackers  soaked  in  milk,  five  eggs, 
one  pound  of  raisins,  half  a  pound  of 
suet,  half  a  pound  of  chopped  apple,  two 
glasses  of  brandy,  dark  spice  and  mace, 
salt  to  the  taste — half  a  pound  of  citron, 
sugar  to  the  taste.  Bake  three  hours 
and  serve  with  cold  sauce. 

1816.-GEOUND  EICE  PUDDING.    (Mrs.  G.'s 
Keceipt). 

Boil  half  a  pound  of  rice  in  five  pints 
of  milk;  add  half  a  pound  of  butter, 
three-quarters  of  sugar,  ten  eggs,  two 
nutmegs,  and  mace  with  a  little  salt : 
bake  in  a  dish. 

131T  — MAELBOEOUGH  PUDDING.  (Furnished 
by  a  Lady  of  New  York.) 

Stew  eighteen  apples  and  strain  them ; 
add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  melted  but- 
ter, with  rose  water,  ten  eggs,  the  juice 
and  rind  of  two  lemons,  sugar  to  taste, 
and  bake  in  paste. 


SWEET   PUDDINGS. 


441 


131S.-BOSTON  PUDDING. 

Make  a  good  common  paste  with  a 
pound  and  a  half  of  flour,  and  three- 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  butter.  When 
you  roll  it  out  the  last  time,  cut  off  the 
edges  till  you  get  the  sheet  of  paste  of 
an  even  square  shape.  Have  ready  some 
fruit,  sweetened  to  your  taste.  If  cran- 
berries, gooseberries,  dried  peaches,  or 
damsons ;  they  should  be  stewed,  and 
made  very  sweet.  If  apples,  they  should 
be  stewed  in  a  very  little  water,  drained, 
and  seasoned  with  nutmeg,  rosewater, 
and  lemon.  If  currants,  raspberries,  or 
blackberries,  they  should  be  mashed  with 
sugar,  and  put  into  the  pudding  raw. 
Spread  the  fruit  very  thick,  all  over  the 
sheet  of  paste  (which  must  not  be  rolled 
out  too  thin).  When  it  is  covered  all 
over  with  the  fruit,  roll  it  up  and  close 
the  dough  at  both  ends,  and  down  the 
last  side.  Tie  the  pudding  in  a  cloth, 
and  boil  it.  Eat  it  with  sugar.  It  must 
not  be  taken  out  of  the  pot  till  just  be- 
fore it  is  brought  to  table. 

1319.— ALMOND  PUDDING  AND  SAUCE. 

A  large  cupful  of  finely-minced  beef 
suet,  a  teacupful  of  milk,  four  ounces  of 
bread-crumbs,  four  ounces  of  well  cleaned 
currants,  two  ounces  of  almonds,  half  a 
pound  of  stoned  raisins,  three  well  beaten 
eggs,  and  the  whites  of  other  two ;  sugar, 
nutmeg,  and  cinnamon,  and  a  small  glass 
of  rum.  Butter  a  shape,  and  place  part 
of  the  raisins  neatly  in  rows.  Blanch 
the  almonds ;  reserve  the  half  of  them 
to  be  placed  in  rows  between  the  raisins 
just  before  serving.  Mix  all  the  remain- 
ing ingredients  well  together,  put  into 
the  shape,  and  boil  three  hours.  The 
sauce — one  teaspoonful  of  milk,  and  two 
yolks  of  eggs  well  beaten,  and  some 
sugar ;  place  on  the  fire  and  stir  till  it 
just  comes  to  the  T)oil^  then  let  it  cool. 
When  lukewarm,  stir  into  it  a  glass  of 
sherry  or  currant  wine,  and  serve  in  a 


sauce  tureen.     This  sauce  is  a  great  im- 
provement to  raisin  pudding. 

1320. -POLKA  PUDDING. 

Mix  four  table-spoonfuls  of  arrow-root 
in  a  pint  of  cold  milk.  Beat  four  eggs 
well,  add  them,  three  ounces  of  fresh 
butter,  cut  into  small  bits;  a  dessert- 
spoonful of  rosewater ;  a  few  drops  of 
essence  of  lemon,  or  ratafia,  and  a  tea- 
cupful  of  sugar.  Boil  two  pints  of  milk 
in  a  saucepan ;  when  boiling  stir  in  the 
other  ingredients;  without  taking  the 
pan  off  the  fire,  let  it  boil  till  thick,  then 
pour  into  a  mould  to  cool.  Turn  it  out 
and  serve  it  cold. 

1821.— JENNY  LIND'S  PUDDING. 

Grate  the  crumb  of  half  a  loaf,  butter 
and  dish  well  and  lay  in  a  thick  layer  of 
the  crumbs ;  pare  ten  or  twelve  apples, 
cut  them  down,  and  put  a  layer  of  them 
and  sugar;  then  crumbs  alternately, 
until  the  dish  is  full ;  put  a  bit  of  butter 
on  the  top,  and  bake  it  in  an  oven,  or 
American  reflector.  An  excellent  and 
economical  pudding. 

1322.— NEWCASTLE  PUDDING. 

Butter  a  basin  or  mould,  stick  it  all 
round  with  sultanas  or  dried  cherries, 
then  put  in  a  slice  of  bread-crumb  soaked 
in  milk,  and  over  that  layers  of  thin 
bread-crumb  buttered,  until  three  parts 
filled ;  fill  up  with  custard,,  and  boil  for 
an  hour  and  a  half. 

1323.— EICHELIEU  PUDDING. 

Steep  the  crumb  of  a  large  slice  of 
bread  in  milk,  warm  as  from  the  cow ; 
let  it  rest,  and  then  strain  off  the  milk  ; 
beat  up  the  yolk  of  an  egg,  mix  it  with 
the  bread,  also  a  bit  of  butter ;  put  it 
into  a  saucepan,  and  boil  till  it  becomes 
stiff;  let  it  cool,  and  then  add  some 
chopped  parsley,  thyme,  pepper  and  salt ; 
beat  up  two  eggs;  mince  about  one 


442 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


pound  of  any  cold  meat,  and  add  all  to- 
gether. Boil  in  a  basin  for  three  hours, 
and  when  dished;  pour  a  good  gravy 
over  it. 

1324— PAEADISE  PUDDING. 

Take  three  eggs,  three  apples  pared, 
cored-,  and  cut  small,  three  ounces  each 
of  the  crumb  of  French  rolls,  sugar,  and 
currants,  a  little  nutmeg  and  salt,  the 
rind  of  a  lemon  pared  very  thin  and  cut 
very  fine,  and  a  wine-glassful  of  brandy 
or  white  wine ;  stir  well,  pour  into  a  but- 
tered mould,  and  boil  for  an  hour ;  then 
serve  with  melted  butter,  wine  and  sugar. 

1325.— HASTY  PUDDING. 

Set  some  milk  on  the  fire,  and,  when 
it  boils,  put  in  ,a  little  salt.  Stir  in  by 
degrees  as  much  flour  as  will  make  it  of 
a  proper  thickness.  Let  it  boil  quickly 
a  few  minutes,  beating  it  constantly  while 
on  the  fire.  Pour  it  into  a  dish,  and  eat 
it  with  cold  butter  and  sugar.  Some 
persons  add  eggs  to  this. 

1826.— HASTY  PUDDING. 

Boil  water,  a  quart,  three  pints,  or 
two  quarts,  according  to  the  size  of  your 
family ;  sift  your  meal,  stir  five  or  six 
spoonfuls  of  it  thoroughly  into  a  bowl  of 
water ;  when  the  water  in  the  kettle 
boils,  pour  into  it  the  contents  of  the 
bowl ;  stir  it  well  and  let  it  boil  up  thick  j 
put  in  salt  to  suit  your  own  taste,  then 
stand  over  the  kettle,  and  sprinkle  HI 
meal,  handful  after  handful,  stirring  it 
very  thoroughly  all  the  time,  and  letting 
it  boil  between  whiles.  When  it  is  so 
thick  that  you  stir  it  with  difficulty,  it  is 
about  right.  It  takes  about  half  an 
hour's  cooking.  Eat  it  with  milk  or 
molasses.  Either  Indian  meal  or  rye 
meal  may  be  used.  If  the  system  is  in  a 
restricted  state,  nothing  can  be  better 
than  rye  hasty  pudding  and  West  India 
molasses.  This  diet  would  save  many  a 
one  from  the  horrors  of  dyspepsia. 


1827.— TO  MAKE  AN  ALMOND  PUD- 
DING. 

Pound  in  your  mortar  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  sweet  almonds,  add  a  table- 
spoonful  of  water  when  you  are  pound- 
ing, take  it  out  of  the  mortar;  have 
ready  broken  seven  eggs,  leaving  out  five 
of  the  whites,  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  sifted  sugar,  mix  all  lightly  together ; 
cut  in  small  dice  a  little  candy,  orange, 
and  lemon-peel,  butter  and  paper  a  plain 
mould,  or  one  that  will  open  j  bake  it  in 
a  moderate  oven. 

1S28.-FAEINA  PUDDING. 

One  quart  of  milk,  six  eggs,  eight  table- 
spoonfuls  of  flour,  three  tablespoonfuls 
of  farina,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt. 

Boil  the  milk ;  while  boiling,  sift  into 
it  the  farina ;  beat  the  eggs,  yolks  and 
whites  separately  ;  stir  into  the  yolks  the 
flour  and  salt,  and  cold  milk  enough  to 
make  a  stiff  batter ;  then  stir  in  the 
whites,  and,  lastly,  the  boiling  milk. 
Butter  a  baking  dish,  and  bake  for  half 
an  hour.  Eat  with  wine  sauce,  or  sugar 
and  butter. 

1329.— A  BAKED  APPLE  DUMPLING. 

Pare  and  quarter  four  large  apples, 
boil  them  tender  with  the  rind  of  a  lemon 
in  so  little  water  that  nothing  may  re- 
main when  done  but  the  juice ;  add  the 
crumb  of  a  small  roll,  four  ounces  butter, 
melted,  the  yolks  of  five  and  whites  of 
three  eggs,  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  and 
sugar  to  taste  j  beat  all  together,  and  lay 
it  in  a  dish  ;  then  beat  the  two  remain- 
ing whites  to  a  froth,  and  throw  it  round 
the  edge  of  the  dish  ;  grate  a  little  white 
sugar  over  when  baked. 

1330.— LEMON  PUDDING. 

Half  a  pound  of  flour,  or  grated 
bread,  half  a  pound  of  suet  cut  very 
fine,  half  a  pound  of  crushed  sugar;  the 


SWEET   PUDDINGS. 


443 


rind  of  two  lemons,  and  the  juice  of 
one,  two  eggs ;  boil  it  four  hours  in  a 
shape.  Served  up  without  sauce  it  is 
excellent. 


1881. -A  PLAIN  EICE  PUDDING. 

To  make  a  plain  rice  pudding,  boil  a 
pint  of  rice  until  it  is  quite  soft.  Mix 
two  ounces  of  butter  and  four  table- 
spoonfuls  of  sugar,  a  quart  of  rich  milk 
with  the  rice,  boil  them  up  together  and 
let  them  partially  cool.  Beat  five  eggs 
until  they  are  quite  light  and  stir  them 
into  the  rice.  It  should  bake  about  an 
hour. 

1832.— EICE  MILK. 

This  dish  is  an  excellent  one,  and  very 
simply  and  quickly  made.  After  wash- 
ing a  pint  of  rice  in  two  different  waters, 
boil  it  well  with  about  half  a  pound  of 
raisins  from  which  the  stems  have  been 
carefully  picked.  Pour  off  the  water, 
and  mix  a  quart  of  rich  milk  with  the 
rice.  Let  it  boil  for  about  five  minutes, 
and  after  mixing  with  it  four  table-spoon- 
fuls of  brown  sugar,  beat  two  eggs  until 
they  are  light,  and  pour  them  into  the 
milk,  stirring  it  all  the  time.  After  the 
rice  and  eggs  are  well  mixed  together, 
they  should  boil  from  three  to  five  min- 
utes. If  they  are  not  well  stirred,  the 
eggs  will  form  a  custard  on  the  surface, 
which  is  not  desirable. 


1333.— BIED'S  NEST  PUDDING. 

If  you  wish  to  make  what  is  called 
"bird's  nest  puddings,"  prepare  yours 
custard, — take  eight  or  ten  pleasant  ap- 
ples, pare  them,  dig  out  the  core,  but 
leave  them  whole,  set  them  in  a  pudding- 
dish,  pour  your  custard  over  them,  and 
bake  them  about  thirty  minutes. 

1884.— OEANGE  PUDDING. 

Wash  half  a  pound  of  butter  until  all 


the  salt  is  extracted,  then  mix  it  well 
with  half  a  pound  of  powdered  white 
sugar,  and  a  wine-glass  of  brandy — wine 
may  be  used  but  it  is  not  as  good.  Grate 
the  rind  of  three  ordinary-sized  oranges 
and  squeeze  their  juice.  Beat  together 
six  fresh  eggs,  and  stir  them  into  the  but- 
ter and  sugar,  after  which,  add  the  pre- 
pared orange.  Lay  a  border  of  puff- 
paste  around  the  pudding-dish,  and  then 
bake  from  half  to  three  quarters  of  an 
hour.  Serve  it  cold,  and  grate  over 
white  sugar  mixed  with  a  little  nutmeg. 
The  latter  ingredient,  however,  is  not 
generally  preferred.  Lemon  Pudding 
may  be  made  in  the  same  manner; 
substituting  lemons  for  oranges. 

1335.-QUINCE  PUDDING. 

Pare  six  large  quinces,  cut  out  the 
cores  and  blemishes,  chop  them  as  fine  as 
possible,  and  boil  them  two  hours  with 
as  little  water  as  possible,  stirring  them 
frequently  that  they  may  not  burn. 
Drain  off  the  water  and  mix  them,  when 
cold,  with  a  pint  of  cream  and  half  a 
pound  of  powdered  sugar. 
• 

1336.— APPLE  DUMPLINGS. 

Pare  and  scoop  out  the  core  of  six 
large  baking  apples,  put  part  of  a  clove, 
and  a  little  grated  lemon-peel,  inside  of 
each,  and  enclose  them  in  pieces  of  puff 
paste  ;  boil  them  in  nets  for  the  purpose, 
or  bits  of  linen,  for  an  hour.  Before 
serving,  cut  off  a  small  bit  from  the  top 
of  each,  and  put  in  a  tea-spoonful  of 
sugar,  and  a  bit  of  fresh  butter  j  replace 
the  bit  of  paste,  and  strew  over  them 
pounded  loaf  sugar. 

1837.— BATTEE  PUDDING. 

Into  a  pint  and  a  half  of  sifted  flour 
stir  gradually,  so  that  it  may  not  be 
lumpy,  a  quart  of  milk.  Beat  seven 
eggs,  and  put  in,  together  with  a  couple 


444 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


of  table-spoonfuls  of  melted  butter,  and  a 
couple  of  teaspoonfuls  of  salt.  Grate  in 
half  a  nutmeg — add,  if  you  want  the 
pudding  very  rich,  half  a  pound  of  raisins. 
They  should  not  be  put  into  a  baked  pud- 
ding till  it  has  been  cooking  long  enough 
to  thicken,  so  that  the  raisins  will  not 
sink  to  the  bottom  of  it.  A  pudding 
made  in  this  manner  is  good  either  baked 
or  boiled.  It  takes  two  hours  to  boil, 
and  an  hour  and  a  quarter  to  bake  it. 
"When  boiled,  the  bag  should  not  be  more 
than  two-thirds  full,  as  flour  puddings 
swell  very  much.  It  should  be  put  into 
boiling  water,  and  kept  boiling  constantly. 
If  the  water  boils  away,  so  as  to  leave 
any  part  of  the  bag  uncovered,  more 
boiling  water  should  be  added.  When 
the  pudding  has  boiled  eight  or  nine 
minutes,  the  bag  should  be  turned  over, 
otherwise  the  pudding  will  be  heavy. 
Flour  puddings  should  be  eaten  as  soon 
as  cooked,  as  they  fall  directly.  Serve 
them  up  with  rich  sauce. 

1338.-SAGO  PUDDING. 

Pick,  wash,  and  dry  half  a  pound  of 
currants ;  and  put  in  such  spices  as  best 
suit  the  taste  of  those  who  are  to  eat  it. 
Have  ready  six  table-spoonfuls  of  sago, 
picked  clean,  and  soaked  for  two  hours 
in  cold  water.  Boil  the  sago  in  a  quart 
of  milk  till  quite  soft.  Then  stir  alter- 
nately into  the  milk,  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  butter,  and  six  ounces  of  powered 
sugar,  and  set  it  away  to  cool.  Beat 
eight  eggs,  and  when  they  are  quite  light, 
stir  them  gradually  into  the  milk,  sago, 
&c.  Add  the  spice,  and  lastly  the  cur- 
rants; having  dredged  them  well  with 
flour  to  prevent  their  sinking.  Stir  the 
whole  very  hard,  put  it  into  a  buttered 
dish,  and  bake  it  three-quarters  of  an 
hour.  It  may  be  eaten  cold. 

1339.— TAPIOCA  PUDDING. 

To  two  quarts  of  warm  milk  put  eight 
table-spoonfuls  of  tapioca,  four  beaten 


eggs,  a  table-spoonful  of  butter,  and  cin- 
namon or  mace  to  the  taste.  Mix  four 
table-spoonfuls  of  white  powdered  sugar 
and  a  wine-glass  of  wine,  and  stir  it  into 
the  rest  of  the  ingredients.  Turn  thf 
whole  into  a  pudding  dish  that  has  a 
lining  of  pastry  and  bake  it  immedi- 
ately. 

1340.— INDIAN  PUDDING. 

Sift  a  pint  of  Indian  meal  and  scald  it 
with  boiling  water.  Place  over  the  fire 
a  quart  of  milk,  cut  up  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  butter  and  melt  it  in  the  hot 
milk — add  a  pint  of  sugar-house  molas- 
ses, and  mix  them  together  until  the 
milk  boils.  Stir  it  into  the  meal,  mixing 
it  well  with  a  wooden  spoon.  Beat 
seven  eggs,  until  they  are  perfectly  light, 
pour  them  into  the  bowl  that  holds  the 
meal,  with  ten  drops  of  the  essence  of 
lemon,  or  a  little  lemon-juice. 

Stir  the  mixture  until  it  seems  quite 
light,  and  bake  it  in  a  moderately  hot 
oven. 

1841.— A  BAKED  BEEAD  PUDDING. 

This  is  a  very  excellent  dish  when 
properly  mixed.  Crumble  half  a  loaf  of 
bread,  a  stale  loaf  is  preferable,  and  cut 
up  the  crust  as  small  as  possible.  Boil 
a  quart  of  milk,  cut  up  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  butter  in  slices,  and  melt  it  in 
the  hot  milk — add  six  table-spoonfuls  of 
sugar.  Pour  the  milk  over  the  bread, 
and  mix  with  it  a  glass  of  good  brandy. 
Brandy  in  which  lemon-peel  has  been 
soaked  for  some  time,  is  the  best  for  this 
purpose,  and  gives  a  fine  flavor  to  the 
pudding.  Beat  seven  eggs  quite  light, 
and  stir  them  into  the  mixture.  If  the 
pudding  is  to  be  placed  immediately  in 
the  oven,  it  is  not  necessary  that  the 
mixture  should  cool  before  the  eggs  are 
added. 

This  pudding  in  a  brisk  oven  will  bake 
in  less  than  an  hour. 


SWEET   PUDDINGS. 


445 


1342-DEMI-PLUM  PUDDING. 

Prepare  the  mould,  then  add  a  layer 
of  plum  pudding,  broken  in  pieces,  that 
has  been  left  from  the  previous  day,  al- 
ternately, till  full ;  fill  up  with  custard, 
and  steam  or"  bake  for  thirty  minutes. 
The  remains  of  any  kind  of  pudding 
may  be  used  thus. 

1343.-MACAEONI  PUDDING. 

Simmer  an  ounce  or  two  of  macaroni 
in  a  pint  of  milk,  with  a  bit  of  lemon- 
peel  and  cinnamon,  till  soft ;  put  it  into 
a  dish  with  milk,  the  yolk  of  three  eggs 
and  the  white  of  one,  some  sugar,  nut- 
meg, a  spoonful  of  almond  water,  and 
half  a  glass  of  raisin  wine ;  put  a  nice 
paste  round  the  edge  of  the  dish,  and 
bake  it. 

A  layer  of  orange  marmalade  or  rasp- 
berry jam  may  be  used  instead  of  the 
almond  water  or  ratafia. 

1844.-OATMEAL  PUDDING. 

'Take  a  pint  of  the  best  fine  oatmeal, 
pour  a  quart  of  boiling  milk  over  it.  and 
let  it  soak  all  night ;  the  next  day  put  it 
in  a  basin  just  large  enough  to  hold  it, 
add  two  eggs  beaten,  and  a  little  salt, 
cover  it  tight  with  a  floured  cloth,  and 
boil  it  an  hour  and  a  half.  It  may  be 
eaten  hot,  with  cold  butter  and  salt ;  or 
cold,  sliced  and  toasted. 

1345.— GEOUND  EICE  PUDDING. 

In  a  pint  of  new  milk  boil  two  dessert- 
spoonfuls of  ground  rice,  adding  a  small 
piece  of  lemon-peel  and  a  little  cinna- 
mon. Keep  it  stirring  while  boiling,  and 
let  it  boil  ten  minutes,  then  let  it  cool ; 
when  cold  add  sugar  to  taste,  a  couple  of 
well  beaten  eggs,  and  some  nutmeg. 
Line  your  dish  with  a  puff  paste,  pour 
in  your  rice,  and  bake  a  light  brown. 

1346.— PUDDING  "WITH  FEUIT. 

Fruit  puddings  are   best  made  in  a 


basin,  the  basin  to  be  buttered  and  lined 
with  the  paste,  and  then  filled  with  the 
fruit,  which  cover  with  the  paste;  the 
paste  should  be  rolled  round  to  the  thick- 
ness of  half  an  inch,  and  when  the  fruit 
is  in,  drawn  to  the  centre,  and  squeezed, 
and  then  tied  up  in  a  cloth  kept  on  pur- 
pose, and  boiled  in  plenty  of  water ;  when 
done,  which  will  be  in  time  according  to 
the  nature  of  the  fruit  you  put  in  it ; 
serve  it  either  turned  out  of  the  basin  or 
not.  The  cover  should  be  of  the  same 
thickness  as  the  sides.  Sugar  should  be 
added  before  being  covered. 

1347.— COCOA-NUT  PUDDING. 

Kemove  the  shell  of  the  cocoa-nut  and 
cut  the  brown  skin  away,  cut  the  nut  in 
pieces  and  place  it  in  cold  water,  remove 
it  and  wipe  it  dry,  grate  about  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  a  large  one,  very  fine,  into 
a  plate.  Place  in  a  basin  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  powdered  white  sugar,  and  three 
ounces  and  a  half  of  fresh  butter,  stir 
them  together  till  it  becomes  like  cream ; 
add  to  it  a  table- spoonful  of  brandy, 
and  about  four  drops  of  either  essence  of 
vanille,  or  any  other  essence  whose  flavor 
may  be  preferred.  Place  the  white  of 
six  eggs  into  a  bowl,  and  beat  them  well 
up ;  then  add  gradually  the  butter  and 
sugar,  which  keep  stirring  at  the  same 
time;  add  by  degrees  the  cocoa-nut. 
Cover  a  pie  dish  with  puff  paste,  place 
the  mixture  in  it,  and  bake  in  a  mode- 
rate oven  for  about  half  an  hour.  Glaze 
it  with  powdered  sugar  and  powdered 
cinnamon  mixed. 

1348.— AN  APPLE  CHAELOTTE. 

Pare  and  slice  a  quantity  of  apples ; 
cut  off  the  crust  of  a  loaf,  and  cut  slices 
of  bread  and  butter.  Butter  the  inside 
of  a  pie  dish,  and  place  bread  and  butter 
all  round  ;  then  put  in  a  layer  of  apples 
sprinkled  with  lemon-peel,  chopped  very 
fine,  and  a  considerable  quantity  of  good 


446 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


brown  sugar.  Then  put  on  a  layer  of 
bread  and  butter,  and  another  of  apples, 
lemon-peel,  and  sugar,  until  the  dish  is 
full,  squeezing  over  the  juice  of  lemons, 
so  that  every  part  shall  be  equally  fla- 
vored. Cover  up  the  dish  with  the 
crusts  of  the  bread  and  the  peels  of  the 
apples,  to  prevent  it  from  browning  or 
burning :  bake  it  one  hour  and  a  quarter ; 
then  take  off  the  peels  and  the  crust, 
and  turn  it  out  of  the  dish. 

1&49.-HEDGEHOG— TO  MAKE. 

Blanch  two  pounds  of  sweet  almonds, 
pound  them  to  a  paste  in  a  mortar, 
moisten  occasionally  with  canaiy  and 
orange-flower  water ;  beat  the  yolks  of 
twelve  and  the  whites  of  five  eggs  with  a 
pint  of  cream  and  some  powdered  sugar, 
put  this  with  the  almond  paste  and  half 
a  pound  of  fresh  butter  in  a  saucepan,  set 
it  over  a  stove,  and  keep  it  constantly 
stirring  till  firm  enough  to  be  moulded 
into  the  shape  of  a  hedgehog ;  stick  it  full 
of  blanched  almonds  cut  lengthwise  into 
slips  and  placed  in  a  dish  ;  beat  up  the 
yolks  of  four  eggs,  put  them  to  a  pint  of 
cream,  sweeten  to  your  taste,  stir  them 
over  a  slow  fire  till  hot,  then  pour  it 
round  the  hedgehog,  and  let  it  stand  till 
cold,  serve  it. 

A  good  calfs-foot  jelly  may  be  poured 
round  it  if  preferred. 

1850.— TKIFLES 

Should  be  made  early  in  the  day  on 
which  they  are  wanted;  take  a  stale 
sponge  cake,  cut  it  in  slices  of  one  inch 
thick,  and  lay  it  on  the  bottom  of  the 
dish  ;  lay  on  that  a  thin  layer  of  any 
kind  of  marmalade,  jam,  or  jelly,  have 
some  macaroons  and  ratafia  cakes,  and 
lay  on  and  cover  the  whole  with  some 
sponge  cakes.  For  a  dish  nine  inches  in 
diameter,  mix  two  glasses  of  sherry,  one 
of  brandy,  half  a  one  of  rum,  and  the 
same  of  noyeau,  and  pour  over,  and  let  it 


remain  until  it  is  well  soaked,  then  pour 
over  about  one  inch  thick  of  rich  custard, 
put  a  pint  of  cream  into  a  bowl,  with 
some  sifted  sugar,  a  squeeze  of  a  lemon, 
and  about  a  table-spoonful  of  the  wine, 
&c.,  you  have  put  on  the  fake,  whisk  it 
well  up.  I  use  a  trifle-churn,  which 
saves  some  trouble ;  I  also  use  it  for 
all  whipped  cream ;  and  as  the  froth  rises 
remove  it  with  a  spoon  upon  a  clean 
sieve,  where  let  it  drain,  then  place  it  on 
the  custard  until  it  is  high  and  hand- 
some. 

I  have  occasionally,  when  being  in  a 
hurry,  and  having  no  cream  by  me,  pro- 
ceeded as  above,  and  made  the  whip  with 
the  whites  of  eggs,  and  some  very  white 
peach  or  egg-plum  marmalade  together, 
until  it  makes  firm  froth  or  whip,  which 
put  on  the  custard ;  this  may  also  be  col- 
ored a  nice  pink. 

1351.— BROWN  BREAD  PUDDING 

May  be  made  with  half  a  pound  of 
stale  brown  bread  coarsely  grated,  half 
a  pound  of  Valencia  raisins  cut  in  halves, 
the  same  of  chopped  suet,  sugar  and  nut- 
meg. Mix  with  four  eggs,  two  spoonfuls 
of  brandy,  and  two  of  cream  ;  boil  it  for 
three  or  four  hours  in  a  cloth  or  basin 
that  exactly  holds  it.  Serve  with  sweet 
sauce. 

Prunes,  or  French  plums,  instead  of 
raisins,  make  a  fine  pudding,  either  with 
suet  or  bread. 

1352.— BREAD  AND  BUTTER  PUDDING. 

Make  a  custard  of  one  egg  and  half  a 
pint  of  milk,  by  boiling  the  milk  with  a 
little  lemon-peel  and  sugar,  and  beating 
up  the  egg  in  it,  putting  it  on  the  fire  to 
thicken ;  butter  slices  of  bread  or  French 
roll,  and  soak  them  for  an  hour  or  two  in 
this  mixture ;  then  lay  them  in  a  dish, 
sprinkling  currants  between  each  layer, 
with  a  little  pounded  sugar;  and,  if 
meant  to  be  very  nice,  put  some  sweet- 


SWEET   PUDDINGS. 


447 


meats  on  the  top  ;  but  both  the  fruits  and 
the  sweetmeats  may  be  omitted  if  thought 
proper.  Pour  over  it  another  half  a  pint 
of  milk  beaten  up  with  two  eggs. 

1353.— BOSTON  CEACKEE  PUDDINGS. 

On  three  grated  Boston  crackers  pour 
a  pint  of  boiling  cream ;  when  cold  add  a 
teaspoonful  of  cinnamon  in  finest  powder, 
the  yolks  of  four  and  whites  of,  two  eggs, 
a  spoonful  of  orange-flower  water  or  ra- 
taiia,  two  ounces  of  loaf-sugar,  and  half 
a  spoonful  of  flour,  or  almond  flour, 
rubbed  smooth. 

1354.— VEKMICELLI. 

BaTced. — Simmer  four  ounces  of  vermi- 
celli in  a  pint  of  new  milk  ten  minutes ; 
then  put  to  it  half  a  pint  of  cream,  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  pounded  cinnamon,  four 
ounces  of  butter  warmed,  the  same  of 
white  sugar,  and  the  yolks  of  four  eggs, 
well  beaten ;  a  little  oil  of  almonds  or  a 
couple  of  spoonfuls  of  ratafia  will  much 
improve  the  flavor.  Bake  in  a  dish  with- 
out a  lining. 

Boiled. — Stir  very  gently  four  ounces 
of  vermicelli  into  a  pint  of  new  milk  over 
the  stove,  until  it  be  scalding  hot,  but 
not  more ;  then  pour  it  into  a  basin,  and 
add  to  it  while  hot  one  ounce  of  butter 
and  two  of  sugar.  When  the  above  is 
nearly  cold,  mix  in  it,  very  gently,  two 
well  beaten  eggs,  and  immediately  put  it 
into  a  basin  that  will  exactly  hold  it. 
Cover  carefully  with  a  floured  cloth ;  and 
turning  the  basin  the  narrow  end  up- 
wards, move  it  round  for  ten  minutes, 
and  boil  an  hour.  Serve  with  pudding- 
sauce. 

1355.— MUFFIN  AND  CEUMPET  PUDDING. 

A  very  delicate  pudding  may  be  made 
in  a  short  time  from  a  couple  of  muffins 
and  three  crumpets,  placed  alternately 
in  layers,  and  either  boiled  or  baked  in 
batter.  If  boiled,  they  should  be  placed 
in  an  earthen  jar,  buttered  on  the  inside, 


filled  with  the  batter,  and  covered  on  the 
top.  The  muffins  should  be  split  open, 
and  currant  jelly,  slices  of  apple,  or  any 
sort  of  fruit  may  be  inserted. 

Or : — Half  a  dozen  crumpets  may  be 
boiled  without  any  fruit,  after  being  dip- 
ped and  covered  in  batter  ;  seasoned  only 
with  sugar  and  a  little  nutmeg. 

1356.-CHOCOLATE  PUDDING. 

Boil  a  pint  of  new  milk ;  dissolve  in  it 
one  ounce  of  chocolate ;  sweeten  it  with 
loaf-sugar ;  add  the  yolks  of  eight  and 
the  whites  of  four  eggs  well  beaten; 
strain  and  pour  it  into  a  plain  mould  but- 
tered and  papered ;  steam  it  for  a  half  an 
hour ;  let  it  settle  for  ten  minutes,  and 
serve  with  the  following  sauce : — Boil  a 
half  a  stick  of  vanilla  in  a  pint  of  milk 
till  it  is  reduced  one-half;  strain  it, 
sweeten  with  loaf-sugar,  and  thicken 
with  arrowroot. 

1357.— SPONGE  PUDDING. 
Butter  a  mould  thickly,  and  fill  it 
three  parts  full  with  small  sponge-cakes, 
soaked  through  with  wine ;  fill  up  the 
mould  with  a  rich  cold  custard.  Butter 
a  paper,  and  put  on  the  mould ;  then  tie 
a  floured  cloth  over  it  quite  close,  and 
boil  it  an  hour.  Turn  out  the  pudding 
carefully,  and  pour  some  cold  custard 
over  it. 

Or: — Bake  it,  and  serve  with  wine- 
sauce  instead  of  custard. 

1358.— QUAKING  PUDDING. 
Scald  a  quart  of  cream ;  when  almost 
cold  put  to  it  four  eggs  well  beaten,  one 
spoonful  and  a  half  of  flour,  some  nut- 
meg and  sugar ;  tie  it  close  in  a  buttered 
cloth,  boil  it  an  hour,  and  turn  it  out 
with  care,  lest  it  should  crack.  Serve 
with  wine-sauce. 

1359.-BEANDT  PUDDING. 

Line  a  mould  with  jar  raisins  stoned, 


4AS 


THE   PEACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


or  dried  cherries,  then  with  thin  slices  of 
French  roll,  next  to  which  put  ratafias, 
or  .macaroons  ;  then  again  fruit,  rolls, 
and  cakes  in  succession  until  the  mould 
be  full,  sprinkling  in,  at  times,  two  wine- 
glassfuls  of  brandy.  Beat  up  four  eggs, 
yolks  and  whites ;  put  to  a  pint  of  milk 
or  cream,  lightly  sweetened,  half  a 
nutmeg,  and  the  rind  of  a  half  a  lemon 
finely  grated.  Let  the  liquid  sink  into 
the  solid  part ;  then  flour  a  cloth,  tie  it 
tight  over,  and  boil  one  hour.  Keep  the 
mould  the  right  side  up.  Serve  with 
pudding-sauce. 

I860.— A  BLACK-CAP  PUDDING. 
Rub  three  table-spoonfuls  of  flour, 
smooth,  by  degrees  into  a  pint  of  milk, 
strain  it,  and  simmer  it  over  the  fire  until 
it  thickens ;  stir  in  two  ounces  of  butter ; 
when  cool,  add  the  yolks  of  four  eggs 
beaten  and  strained,  and  a  half  a  pound 
of  currants  washed  and  picked,  laid  at 
the  bottom  of  the  basin  or  mould  previ- 
ously well  buttered.  Put  the  batter  into 
the  mould,  cover  it  tight,  and  plunge  it 
into  boiling  water ;  the  currants  down- 
wards, that  they  may  stick  to  the  bottom 
and  thus  form  the  black-cap. 

1861.— A  SWEETMEAT  PUDDING. 

Cover  a  dish  with  thin  puff-paste,  and 
lay  in  it  freshly  candied  orange,  lemon, 
and  citron,  one  ounce  each,  sliced  thin. 
Beat  the  yolks  of  eight  and  the  whites 
of  two  eggs,  and  mix  with  eight  ounces 
of  butter  warmed,  but  not  oiled,  and 
eight  ounces  of  white  sugar.  Pour  the 
mixture  over  the  sweetmeats,  and  bake 
one  hour  in  a  moderate  oven. 

1362.— OEANGE  PUDDING 

May  be  made  with  six  ripe  oranges, 
large,  juicy,  of  the  best  kind,  and 
peeled  ;  the  rinds  to  be  beaten  in  a  mor- 
tar with  half  a  pound  each  of  fresh 
butter  and  moist  sugar,  to  which  add  the 
yolks  of  six  or  eight  eggs,  and  make  the 


whole  into  a  batter  with  the  juice  of 
only  three  of  the  oranges :  the  number  of 
eggs  to  be  regulated  by  the  size  of  the 
fruit.  Put  the  materials  into  a  mould, 
with  a  paste  around  but  not  over  it,  and 
bake  it  for  half  an  hour. 

1363.— EOLT-POLY  PUDDING. 

Make  a  rich  pudding-paste  with  flour 
and  butter,  without  suet,  but  as  light  as 
possible.  Eoll  it  out  thin,  and  cut  it  to 
the  breadth  of  eight  or  ten  inches,  mak- 
ing it  at  the  same  time  as  long  as  you 
please ;  but  half  of  a  pound  of  flour 
and  five  ounces  of  butter,  wetted  with 
water,  will  probably  be  sufficient  when 
rolled  out  quite  smooth;  then  spread 
upon  it  a  thick  layer  of  raspberry,  cur- 
rant, or  any  other  sort  of  jam,  but  leave 
about  an  inch  of  all  the  edges  bare. 
That  done,  roll  it  round;  the  roll  of 
paste  will  secure  the  fruit,  and  the  ends 
must  be  twisted  together  for  the  same 
purpose.  Wrap  it  in  a  nicely  floured 
cloth,  and  boil  it  for  two  to  three  hours 
according  to  size. 

Take  it  up  quite  hot,  and  when  served 
cut  it  crosswise.  It  may  appear  homely, 
but  it  is  an  excellent  and  much-admired 
pudding. 

1364.— A  YEEY  FINE  GEEMAN  PUD- 
DING. 

Pour  half  a  pint  of  boiling  milk  upon 
one  pound  of  bread-crumbs;  beat  up  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  fresh  butter  to  a 
cream ;  add  to  it  the  yolks  of  ten  eggs 
well  beaten ;  drain  the  milk  from  the 
bread,  and  add  the  bread  with  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  pounded  sugar  and  the 
grated  peel  of  a  lemon ;  whip  the  whites 
of  the  ten  eggs  into  a  solid  froth,  and 
add  them  the  last  thing  :  butter  a  cloth, 
and  put  the  pudding  in,  tying  it  loose,  as 
it  will  swell  out  a  good  deal ;  plunge  it 
into  boiling  water;  boil  one  hour.  Some 
persons  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  jar 
raisins  slit  and  stoned.  When  turned 


SWEET   PUDDINGS. 


449 


out  stick  the  surface  with  sliced  almonds, 
and  serve  with  the  following  sauce: — 
Take  one  pint  of  cream,  one  pint  of  sweet 
raisin  wine,  four  ounces  of  sugar  rubbed 
on  the  peel  of  a  lemon,  and  let  them 
boil ;  add  the  yolks  of  six  eggs  well 
beaten,  and  the  juice  of  the  lemon; 
mix  them  well ;  make  the  sauce  quite 
hot,  but  do  not  let  it  boil  again ;  pour 
some  over  the  pudding,  serving  the  re- 
mainder in  a  sauce  boat. 

1365.— POUDING  A  LA  NESSELEODE. 
(From  an  eminent  Hotel-keeper.) 

For  a  two-quart  mould  boil  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  chestnuts  to  produce  a  quart 
of  meal  after  being  pounded  and  rubbed 
through  a  tammy.  Boil  three-quarters 
of  a  pound  of  sugar  in  one  pint  of  water, 
with  a  stick  of  vanilla,  until  it  is  reduced 
one-third.  Boil  one  pint  of  cream,  add 
it  to  the  chestnut-flour,  then  add  the 
syrup  and  twelve  yolks  of  eggs  beat  up ; 
set  it  over  the  fire,  stir  it  until  it  nearly 
boils.  When  cold,  put  the  composition 
into  a  freezing-pot;  when  it  is  frozen, 
add  half  a  pint  of  whipped  cream,  three 
whites  of  eggs  whipped  up  strong,  a 
handful  of  raisins  stoned,  chopped,  and 
soaked  for  a  day  in  maraschino,  as  many 
currants,  one  cup  and  a  half  of  chopped 
candied  lemon-peel,  and  a  glass  of  maras- 
chino ;  stir  these  ingredients  all  well  to- 
gether, freeze  it  again,  and  put  it  into 
the  mould. 

1366.— PAIN  PEEDU. 

Beat  eggs  with  salt,  sugar  and  orange- 
flower  water ;  cut  slices  of  bread,  soak 
in  boiling  milk,  drain,  and  dip  them  in 
the  egg ;  fry  them  in  hot  butter.  Sift 
sugar  over  them,  and  serve  hot  with 
wine  sauce. 

13G7.— A  CHAETEEUSE  OP  APPLES  AND 
EICE. 

Boil  six  ounces  of  rice  with  a  stick 
of  cinnamon  in  milk  until  it  is  thick, 
stirring  in  a  spoonful  of  rose-water  or 


orange-flower  water.  Pare  ten  or  twelve 
apples — golden  pippins  are  the  best — 
scoop  out  the  core,  and  fill  up  the 
orifice  with  raspberry-jam.  Border  a 
deep  dish  with  paste ;  put  in  the  ap- 
ples, leaving  a  space  between,  and  fill  it 
up  with  the  rice.  Brush  the  whole  over 
with  the  yolk  of  an  egg,  and  sift  sugar 
thickly  over  it;  form  a  pattern  on  the 
top,  with  sweetmeats,  and  bake  it  for  one 
hour  in  a  quick  oven. 

1368.— MIEOTON  OF  APPLES. 

Scald  the  apples,  reduce  them  to  a 
pulp,  and  pile  them  high  upon  the  dish 
in  which  they  are  to  be  served  ;  boil  one 
teaspoonful  of  grated  lemon-peel  and  six 
or  eight  lumps  of  sugar  in  a  teacupful  of 
water ;  then  add  the  yolks  of  three  eggs 
and  the  white  of  one,  half  an  ounce  of 
butter,  one  spoonful  of  flour,  and  one  of 
brandy;  mix  the  whole  together  over 
the  fire,  and  stir  it  quite  smooth.  Pour 
it  upon  the  apples,  then  whisk  the  whites 
of  the  other  two  eggs  to  a  froth ;  put 
them  over  the  miroton  just  as  it  is  going 
into  the  oven,  and  sift  some  sugar  over 
it.  The  oven  must  be  slow :  it  will  take 
ten  or  fifteen  minutes  to  bake. 


1369  —TO  MAKE  BATTEE  FOE  FEUIT  PUD- 
DINGS. 

Put  half  a  pound  of  flour  and  a  salt- 
spoonful  of  salt  into  a  pan,  add  very 
gently  half  a  pint  of  milk;  if  mixed 
carelessly  the  flour  will  remain  in  lumps  j 
beat  up  the  whites  of  four  eggs,  strain 
them  to  the  batter,  and  beat  it  well  with 
a  wooden  spoon.  The  whites  should  be 
beaten  separately  to  a  solid  froth,  and 
not  added  till  just  before  the  batter  is 
used.  For  fruit  the  batter  should  be 
rather  thicker  than  when  plain,  to  pre- 
vent the  fruit  from  sinking  to  the  bot- 
tom of  the  dish  or  basin,  as  it  is  equally 
good  baked  or  boiled.  It  must  be  brought 
to  a  proper  consistency  by  adding  milk. 


450 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


1STO.-OXFOKD  DUMPLINGS. 

Of  grated  bread  two  ounces,  currants 
and  shred  suet  four  ounces  each,  two 
large  spoonfuls  of  flour,  a  great  deal  of 
grated  lemon-peel,  a  bit  of  sugar,  and  a 
little  pimento  in  fine  powder.  Mix  with 
two  eggs  and  a  little  milk  into  five  dump- 
lings, and  fry  of  a  fine  yellow  brown. 
Made  with  flour  instead  of  bread,  but 
half  the  quantity,  they  are  excellent. 
Serve  with  sweet  sauce. 

18TL— GLOUCESTEE  PUDDINGS. 

Weigh  three  eggs  in  the  shell;  take 
their  weight  in  flour  and  butter ;  take 
twelve  bitter  almonds  and  five  ounces 
of  pounded  sugar ;  beat  all  together  for 
half  an  hour,  and  put  the  mixture  in 
pudding-cups,  filling  the  cups  only  half 
full.  Bake  them  half  an  hour. 

1372.— YEAST  DUMPLINGS. 

Take  some  yeast  and  make  a  very  light 
dough  the  same  as  for  bread,  using  milk 
ho"-.  >er  instead  of  water;  add  salt,  put 
'..  oy  the  fire  covered  in  a  pan  for  half  an 
hour  or  more,  to  rise»;  after  this  is  done 
roll  up  the  dough  into  small  balls  and 
boil  them  for  ten  minutes,  then  take 
them  out  and  serve  directly  with  wine- 
sauce  over  them.  To  know  when  they 
are  done  stick  a  fork  into  one,  and  if  it 
comes  out  clean  they  will  do. 

A  good  method  of  eating  them  is  by 
dividing  them  from  the  top  with  two 
forks,  as  they  get  heavy  by  their  own 
steam,  and  eat  them  directly  with  meat, 
or  sugar  and  butter,  or  salt. 


ITALIAN  PASTES. 

BESIDES  macaroni,  there  are  vermicelli, 
semolina,  a  smaller  sort  called  macaron- 
cini,  and  various  other  pastes  of  the 
same  nature,  all  made  in  Italy  from  the 
same  kind  of  grain ;  nothing,  therefore, 


can  be  more  simply  nutritive,  nor,  when 
well  boiled,  more  easy  of  digestion. 
There  are  also  two  sorts  of  macaroni — 
the  pipe  and  the  tape — the  one  hollow, 
and  the  other  flat,  but  both  made  of  the 
same  material ;  the  vermicelli  being  that 
most  generally  used  in  soup :  each  being 
severally  used  in  various  ways,  according 
to  the  following  receipts : 

1373.-MACAEONI. 

Some  cooks  are  very  fond  of  boiling  it 
in  milk,  and  even  of  laying  it  in  milk  for 
an  hour  or  two  to  swell  and  become  ten- 
der, but  boiling  water  is  as  good.  A 
quarter  of  a  pound  will  be  sufficient  for 
half  a  dozen  people,  and  will  not  require 
more  than  twenty  to  twenty-five  minutes 
to  become  tender,  if  boiled  in  water,  but 
a  few  minutes  longer  if  boiled  in  broth. 
Drain  it  when  tender  and  lay  it  in  a  dish. 
Half  the  quantity  of  cheese  should  be  finely 
grated  and  sprinkled  over  it  in  layers,  with 
butter,  to  mix  it  thoroughly.  It  should 
be  served  quite  hot.  It  is  sometimes 
eaten  with  mustard,  and,  if  to  be  made 
very  savory,  beef  gravy  may  be  used  with 
a  truffle  stewed  in  it. 

Nothing  but  Parmesan  cheese  will  give 
it  the  true  flavor. 

To  "brown  Macaroni  is  the  common 
practice  of  cooks ;  though,  in  fact,  the 
browning,  while  giving  a  pretty  appear- 
ance to  the  macaroni,  not  only  hardens 
the  top  of  the  cheese  into  a  crust,  but 
often  gives  a  taste  of  rancidity.  It  can 
be  done  with  crumbs  of  bread,  thus : — 

Wash  the  macaroni,  then  simmer  it  in 
a  little  broth,  with  a  little  pounded  mace 
and  salt.  When  quite  tender,  take  it  out 
of  the  liquor,  lay  it  in  a  dish,  grate  a 
good  deal  of  cheese  over,  then  cover  that 
with  bread  grated  fine.  Warm  some 
butter  without  oiling,  and  pour  it  from  a 
boat  through  a  little  earthen  colander  all 
over  the  crumbs,  then  put  the  dish  in  a 
Dutch  oven  to  brown  the  bread  of  a  fine 
color. 


ITALIAN  PASTES. 


Cold  Macaroni, — If  already  dressed, 
may  be  warmed  in  any  kind  of  broth, 
letting  it  simmer  gently  upon  a  slow  fire, 
with  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  to  thicken ; 
after  which  it  should  be  put  into  the 
oyen  in  a  mould  covered  with  crumbs  of 
bread ;  or,  if  undressed,  it  may  be  made 
by  leaving  it  overnight  in  broth,  and  then 
proceeding  with  it  as  above. 

1374— TIMBALE  DE  MACAEONL 

Soften  the  macaroni  by  boiling  it  fast 
until  it  will  cut  easily  without  breaking, 
but  do  not  let  it  be  too  soft ;  then  cut  it 
into  pieces  half  an  inch  long ;  butter  a 
mould,  stick  the  macaroni  quite  close  to- 
gether all  over  it,  so  as  to  look  like  a 
honeycomb  ;  then  spread  a  thin  layer  of 
quenelle  farce  over  the  macaroni ;  fill  up 
the  mould  with  a  mince  of  stewed  ox 
palates  cut  into  small  pieces,  and  small 
button  mushrooms,  either  pickled  or 
fresh,  moistened  well  with  white  sauce : 
close  the  mould,  and  boil  it  for  three- 
quarters  of  an  hour;  turn  it  out  very 
carefully,  and  serve  it  with  thick  white 
sauce  and  mushrooms. 

1375.— PlT£  DE  MACABONL 

Stew  some  macaroni  in  butter  and 
water,  or  broth,  strain  it,  cut  it  into 
pieces,  and  lay  it  at  the  bottom  of  the 
dish,  adding  ham  balls,  made  of  ham, 
pounded  in  a  mortar,  and  blended  with 
butter ;  then  have  ready  any  kind  of  game, 
boned  and  filleted,  cock's-combs  or  ox- 
palates,  previously  blanched  and  stewed, 
sweetbread  cut  into  dice,  and  mushrooms, 
all  stewed  in  good  rich  sauce  ;  place  a 
layer  upon  the  macaroni,  then  another 
layer  of  meat,  and,  until  the  pie  is  filled, 
add  to  it  equal  quantities  of  cream  and 
gravy,  cover  it  with  a  paste,  and  bake  it, 
or  omit  the  paste,  and  stew  it  before  the 
fire  in  a  Dutch  oven.  The  macaroni 
may  be  mixed  with  grated  cheese. 


13T6.-VEEMICELLI 

Is  of  the  same  substance  as  macaroni, 
but  made  much  smaller,  and  frequently 
put  into  meat  soups  as  giving  them  ad- 
ditional richness  ;  but  it  is  ofteti  too  spar- 
ingly used.  To  be  well  made  the  soup 
should  be  thickened  with  it,  and  for  that 
purpose  it  is  preferable  to  macaroni. 

Semolina  is  of  the  same  material,  but 
made  into  small  grains,  which  more  easily 
thicken  the  soup  in  which  it  is  mixed  ; 
it  can  also  be  made  into  an  excellent 
pudding  with  eggs  and  milk,  using  it  in- 
stead of  flour. 

It  should  be  observed,  as  a  general 
rule,  that  in  using  any  of  the  Italian 
pastes — unless  they  should  be  sweetened 
— Parmesan  cheese  should  always  form 
part  of  the  dish,  in  the  proportion  of  one- 
half  the  quantity  to  that  of  the  paste. 

1377.— POLENTA. 

Is,  in  Italy,  made  from  the  flour  of  In- 
dian corn,  but  in  England  generally  of 
semolina,  thus : — Put  a  little  salt  and 
four  ounces  of  semolina  into  a  quart  of 
milk  when  it  is  beginning  to  boil,  and 
let  it  continue  to  simmer  for  about  ten 
minutes,  stirring  it  occasionally  to  guard 
it  from  burning.  When  well  thickened 
pour  it  into  a  dish  to  cool,  and  when 
quite  cold  it  will  be  very  solid :  then  cut 
it  into  slices  of  less  than  an  inch  thick, 
upon  which  put  a  large  grating  of  good 
Parmesan  cheese,  for  no  other  kind  will 
answer  the  purpose ;  nor  should  any 
spices  be  used,  except  a  little  mace  j  nor 
even  that,  unless  it  be  made  (as  sometimes 
done)  with  veal  broth.  Clarify  a  few 
ounces  of  fresh  butter — though  in  Italy 
oil  is  always  used — put  a  layer  of  the 
paste,  powdered  with  the  Parme&'an,  mix- 
ed with  a  little  of  the  butter;  bake  it  for 
half  an  hour  in  a  moderately  heated  oven, 
and  serve  it  up  quite  hot,  with  a  separate 
plate  of  the  grated  cheese. 


452 


THE  PRACTICAL  HOUSEKEEPER. 


RICE. 

For  savory  dishes  rice  should  be  stew- 
ed in  good  gravy,  seasoned  with  mace, 
cayenne,  and  salt,  with  the  addition  of 
fried  onions,  shalot,  garlic,  and  pot-herbs, 
strained  and  used  at  pleasure. 

For  sweet  disJies. — Boil  it  with  lemon- 
peel,  cinnamon,  or  bay-leaves,  and,  when 
done  to  a  proper  consistency,  add  powder- 
ed sugar  and  cold  butter,  stirring  it  all 
the  time  till  melted ;  then  pour  in  a  little 
cream,  and  use  it  either  as  a  covering  for 
stewed  fruits,  or,  if  made  thick  enough, 
it  may  be  placed  round  the  sides  of  a 
dish,  leaving  the  middle  hollow  for  the 
sweets.  The  same  plan  may  be  adopted 
for  all  sorts  of  meat,  poultry,  fish,  fruit, 
and  sweetmeats.  The  sugar  should  not 
be  added  until  the  rice  is  done,  as  it  has 
a  tendency  to  harden  the  grains. 

Plain  rice  pudding  can  be  made  with 
brown  sugar,  and  milk  baked  slowly  a 
long  time  ;  a  richer  one  by  boiling  a  tea- 
cupful  of  rice,  and  when  boiled,  adding 
milk  and  fine  sugar,  with  four  beaten 
eggs,  and  baking  it. 

1378.— EICE  FEITTEES. 

Pare  very  thin  the  rind  of  a  lemon, 
and  boil  it  in  milk,  with  sugar  enough  to 
sweeten  it,  and  a  cup  of  rice.  When  the 
rice  is  quite  soft  take  out  the  lemon  peel, 
beat  up  the  rice  with  a  glass  of  brandy ; 
shape  it  into  fritters ;  brush  them  with 
yolks  of  eggs,  cover  them  with  bread- 
crumbs, fry  them  in  lard,  dust  them  with 
fine  sugar,  and  glaze  with  salamander. 

18T9.— TO  BOIL  EICE. 

Very  few  persons  know  how  to  boil 
rice  properly.  It  is  usually  so  boiled  as 
to  become  a  heavy  dough,  so  tenacious 
and  solid  as  to  be  almost  impenetrable 
to  the  digestive  fluids  secreted  by  the 
mouth  and  the  stomach,  which  are  neces- 


sary to  dissolve  it,  and  to  effect  its  diges- 
tion and  distribution,  as  innocent  nourish- 
ing food.  It  should  be  so  cooked  that 
the  grains  shall  remain  separate  and  dis- 
tinct, but  not  hard,  and  the  whole  ^e  in 
some  degree  loose  and  porous.  "The 
Southern  method  is  as  follows  : 

Pick  over  the  rice  carefully,  rinse  it 
well  in  cold  water  till  it  is  faithfully 
cleansed ;  drain  off  the  water,  then  put 
it  in  a  pot  of  boiling  water,  with  a  little 
salt.  Allow  as  much  as  a  quart  of  water 
to  a  teacup  of  rice,  as  it  absorbs  the 
water  very  much  while  boiling.  Boil  it 
seventeen  minutes ;  then  turn  the  water 
off  very  close ;  set  the  pot  over  a  few 
coals,  and  let  it  steam  fifteen  minutes 
with  the  lid  of  the  pot  off.  The  beauty 
of  the  rice  boiled  in  this  way,  is,  that 
each  kernel  stands  out  by  itself,  while  it 
is  quite  tender. 


Eice  Croquettes. 

1880.— EICE  CEOQUETTES. 

Take  half  a  pound  of  boiled  rice,  mix 
with  it  two  table-spoonfuls  of  grated 
cheese,  and  a  little  nutmeg  and  mace ; 
then  take  a  little  butter,  six  table-spoon- 
fuls of  cold  chicken  breast,  minced,  six 
bearded  oysters,  a  little  parsley  and 
lemon  peel,  and  mixed  together  with  rich 
milk  or  cream.  Roll  out  a  table-spoon 
heaping  full  of  the  rice,  and  put  into  it 
as  much  as  it  will  hold  of  the  mixture, 
folding  the  edges  and  inclosing  it ;  brush 
the  balls  over  with  yolk  of  raw  egg,  roll 
them  in  cracker  crumbs,  and  fry  them 
light  brown  in  boiling  lard.  Serve  them 
hot  when  drained. 


RICE. 


453 


1881.— CASSEKOLE  DE  EIZ  AUX  (EUFS. 

*  Clean,  wash,  and  stew  the  rice  ;  work 
it  well  with  stock  and  an  egg  beaten,  as 
the  rice  should  be  firm  and  well  blended ; 
then  make  it  into  a  wall,  lining  the  inside 
of  a  mould  of  the  requisite  height :  bake 
the  casserole.  Take  the  white  portion 
of  cold  fowl,  cold  veal,  or  sweetbreads ; 
mince  them  finely,  add  some  thick  white 
sauce  and  mushrooms,  fill  the  casserole, 
and  cover  the  top  with  poached  eggs ; 
cover  them  with  glaze,  and  serve  it  up 
very  hot.' 

1882.— EICE,  GATEAU  OF. 

Boil  a  quart  of  cream,  and  add  to  it 
half  a  pound  of  powdered  sugar,  and 
three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  rice  ;  when 
the  latter  is  quite  soft  dissolve  in  it  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  and  then 
put  in  the  grated  rind  of  a  lemon ;  let  it 
cool.  When  quite  cold  stir  in  four 
yolks  and  four  whole  eggs ;  more  if  the 
rice  be  very  thick ;  butter  a  mould 
lightly,  put  the  rice  into  it,  place  the 
mould  in  hot  ashes  so  that  it  may  be 
completely  enveloped  in  and  covered 
with  them ;  in  half  an  hour  the  gateau 
will  be  done  enough,  then  turn  it  out 
and  serve.  If  you  wish  you  can  make  a 
souffle  by  whipping  the  whites  of  six 
eggs  like  other  souffles ;  in  this  case  it 
should  be  served  in  a  silver  dish.  In 
putting  the  preparation  into  the  mould 
be  careful  not  to  fill  it,  as  the  rice 
would  swell  and  run  over. 

1383.— MUSH. 

Stir  Indian  meal  into  boiling  water, 
adding^  a  little  salt  and  putting  in  the 
meal  by  degrees,  while  stirring  with  a 
mush  stick.  Let  it  boil  thick,  then  sim- 
mer slowly  till  sufficiently  cooked  ;  three 
or  four  hours'  simmering  will  not  be  too 
long. 

1884— HOMINY. 

Wash  the  Kominy  clean,  and  boil  it 
29 


with  sufficient-  water  to  cover  it.  It 
should  boil  from  four  to  five  hours  over 
a  very  slow  fire.  Eat  it  with  butter  and 
molasses,  or  with  sugar  and  milk.  It  is 
considered  extremely  wholesome  food, 
especially  for  children  and  delicate  per- 
sons. 

1885.— CEOQUETTES   OP  EICE  WITH  APEI- 
COT  MAEMALADE. 

Prepare  the  rice  plain  for  a  croquette, 
take  the  handle  of  a  wooden  spoon,  make 
a  hole  in  the  croquette,  which  fill  with 
marmalade  of  apricots.  Then  close  it  up 
with  some  of  the  rice,  put  crumbs  of 
bread  as  you  do  in  all  other  croquettes, 
and  fry  in  the  same  manner.  You  may 
put  in  pieces  of  apple  or  other  fruit. 

1386.— SOUFFLE  OF  APPLES  WITH  A  EICE 
BOEDEE. 

Prepare  your  rice  as  for  a  croquette. 
Keep  it  of  a  strong  solid  substance; 
dress  it  up  all  round  a  dish,  the  same 
height  as  a  raised  crust,  that  is  to  say, 
three  inches  high.  Give  a  pleasing 
shape  to  the  rice,  and  let  it  be  levelled 
smooth ;  have  some  marmalade  of  apple 
ready,  made  very  thick ;  mix  with  it  six 
yolks  of  eggs  and  a  small  bit  of  butter  ; 
warm  it  on  the  stove :  tnen  have  eight 
whites  of  eggs  well  whipped,  as  for  bis- 
cuits ;  mix  theni  lightly  with  the  apples, 
and  put  the  whole  into  the  middle  of  the 
rice  j  put  this  into  the  oven,  which  must 
not  be  too  hot.  When  the  souffl6  is 
raised  sufficiently,  send  it  up,  as  it  would 
soon  lower.  If  you  wish  to  make  a 
kind  of  pap,  take  a  spoonful  of  flour,  a 
pint  of  milk,  a  little  salt,  lemon,  and 
sugar ;  let  the  whole  boil  well  and  thick, 
then  mix  it  with  the  apples  and  the 
yolks  of  six  eggs ;  the  whites  are  to  be 
well  beaten,  and  poured  in  afterwards ; 
next  bake  the  souffle  in  the  oven.  This 
method  is  safer  than  the  former,  and  is 
not  deficient  in  delicacy. 


454 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


CHEESE. 

Cheese  takes  an  important  place  at 
the  table ;  not  alone,  in  its  simple  place 
at  the  close  of  the  dinner,  but  that  it 
forms  the  foundation  of  many  excellent 
dishes.  The  selection  of  good  cheese  re- 
quires both  judgment  and  experience  ;  a 
delicate  palate  and  a  keen  sense  of  smell 
are  two  essential  requisites,  while  the 
eye  is  an  assistant  to  point  out  those  de- 
fects independent  of  taste  or  smell.  A 
prime  cheese  is  readily  told  by  a  connois- 
seur by  the  color  and  texture,  without 
consulting  either  nose  or  palate. 

1387.— TO  MAKE  CHEESE. 

Put  rennet  into  warm  fresh  milk, 
soaked  in  a  little  warm  water,  and  add 
salt.  Half  a  pint  of  rennjet  water  will 
turn  three  pails  of  milk.  Gut  the  curd 
into  squares;  afterwards  break  it  up 
and  let  it  stand  a  few  minutes  ;  pour  off 
the  whey,  tie  up  the  curd,  and  hang  it 
up  to  drain  dry.  Then  chop  it  up  in  a 
cheese  tray,  put  it  in  a  cloth  in  the  cheese 
mould,  and  press  it  in  the  screw  press 
half  an  hour.  Then  cut  it  up  fine,  salt 
it,  and  press  again  for  twenty-four  hours, 
wetting  the  cloth  previously.  Take  it 
out  and  turn,  and  put  it  in  again  in  a 
clean  wet  cloth,  and  renew  this  process 
for  three  or  four  days.  %  Then  rub  the 
cheese  with  butter  or  lard,  and  set  it 
away  in  a  dry  place  or  in  a  wire  safe. 
Wipe  and  grease  it  till  the  rind  is  firm, 
and  turn  it  every  day  for  several  weeks. 

1383.— SMEARCASE  OR  COTTAGE  CHEESE. 

Set  by  the  fire  some  milk  beginning  to 
sour,  till  a  curd  is  formed  :  then  pour  off 
the  whey,  tie  the  curd  in  a  cloth,  and 
hang  it  up  to  drain,  not  squeezing  it 
Drain  it  twelve  hours.  Then  work  it  in 
a  bowl  with  cream,  salting  to  taste,  anc 
add  a  little  fresh  butter,  till  it  is  soft  an 
smooth. 


13S9.— SAGE  CHEESE. 

Pound  fresh  sage  leaves  in  a  mortar 
o  obtain  the  juice,  and  mix  it  with  the 
milk  while  warm,  after  the  rennet  is  put 
n.  Spinach  juice  is  an  improvement. 

1390.— CREAM  CHEESE. 

Take  a  small  pan  of  fresh  morning's 
milk,  warm  from  the  cow  is  best,  and 
mix  with  the  cream  skimmed  from  an 
qual  quantity  of  the  last  night's  milk. 
Warm  it  to  blood  heat,  pour  into  it  a 
up  of  water,  in  which  a  piece  bf  rennet 
he  size  of  two  fingers  has  soaked  all 
night,  and  put  it  in  a  warm  place  till  the 
curd  is  formed.  Cut  the  curd  into 
squares,  lay  over  it  a  thin  straining  cloth, 
)ress  it  down,  and  dip  out  all  the  whey 
;hat  rises  through  it.  Then  put  the  curd 
n  the  cloth,  squeeze  it  dry,  then  crumble 
and  salt  it  to  taste.  Wash  the  straining 
cloth,  lay  it  in  the  cheese  hoop  (a  bot- 
tomless vessel  the  size  of  a  dinner  plate, 
perforated  with  small  holes,)  put  the 
crumbled  curd  into  the  cloth,  and  fold 
the  rest  of  the  cloth  over  it.  Put  on  the 
cover,  and  set  a  weight  on  it.  In  six 
hours  turn  the  cheese,  and  let  stand  six 
hours  longer.  Then  take  it  out?  rub  it 
with  fresh  butter,  and  set  it  in  a  dark, 
dry  place.  Turn  it  every  day  for  four  or 
five  days,  when  it  is  fit  for  use ;  and  it 
must  be  eaten  immediately  when  cut.  It 
will  keep  but  a  few  days,  even  in  cold 
weather. 

1891.— CHEESE  PUFFS. 

Take  half  a  pint  of  cheese  curd 
strained  from  the  whey,  with  a  spoonful 
and  a  half  of  flour,  three  eggs,  leave  out 
the  whites  of  two,  a  spoonful  of  orange 
flower  water,  a  quarter  of  a  nutmeg,  and 
sugar  to  make  it  sweet ;  beat  it  in  a  mor- 
tar; lay  a  little  of  this  paste  in  very 
small  round  cakes  on  a  tin  plate  ;  if  the 
oven  is  hot,  they  will  take  a  quarter  of 
an  hour  to  bake  them ;  serve  them  with 
pudding  sauce. 


455 


1892.— EGGS  AND  CHEESE 

Are  mixed  together  in  various  ways 
by  French  cooks,  under  the  names  of 
fondus  or  fondeaux,  ramequins,  and  other 
titles,  for  the  purpose  of  preparing  en- 
tremets, or  side-dishes,  for  elegant  tables. 

Gruyere  and  Parmesan  are  the  most 
proper  sorts  to  be  thus  used,  but  any 
dry  cheese,  of  good  flavor,  may  be  em- 
ployed. 

For  Fondeau. — Slice  a  stale  penny 
roll ;  pour  over  it  three  gills  of  boiling 
milk  ;  when  soaked,  beat  it  well,  and  mix 
with  it  half  a  pound  of  cheese,  finely 
grated,  with  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  well 
whisked.  All  this  may  be  prepared 
when  most  convenient ;  immediately  be- 
fore it  is  wanted  beat  the  whites  of  the 
four  eggs  into  a  solid  -froth,  and  add 
them;  pour  the  whole  into  the  paper 
forms,  and  bake  them  to  your  taste. 

A  Vltalienne. — Mix  half  a  pint  of 
cream  with  a  little  flour  and  a  little  salt ; 
keep  stirring  it  over  the  fire  until  it  is  as 
thick  as  melted  butter ;  then  add  about 
half  a  pound  of  Parmesan  cheese  finely 
grated.  Mix  it  all  well  together  until  it 
is  half  cold ;  then  take  four  eggs,  sepa- 
rate the  yolks  from  the  whites,  put  the 
former  to  the  cheese,  and  beat  it  well  to- 
gether. Then  beat  the  whites  to  a  solid 
froth,  and  add  them  to  the  rest ;  pour 
the  mixture  into  an  ornamented  mould 
or  a  deep  dish  lined  with  paper,  cut  in  a 
fringe  at  the  top,  and  only  half  filled,  as 
it  will  rise  very  high.  The  oven  must 
be  very  hot,  in  order  to  cause  the  rising, 
and  the  dish  must  be  served  immediately, 
or  it  will  fall ;  to  prevent  which,  let  the 
cover  be  of  metal,  strongly  heated: 
twenty  minutes  ought  to  bake  it. 

Fondeaux  of  a  small  size  may  be  made 
in  either  of  the  above  modes,  and  put 
into  little  paper  moulds  of  any  fancied 
form,  but  only  half  filled. 


1893.— KAMEQUINS. 

Take  two  eggs,  two  spoonfuls  of  flour, 
two  ounces  of  melted  butter,  and  two  of 
grated  cheese  ;  mix  all  well  together,  and 
bake  it  in  moulds  or  tart-pans  for  a 
quarter  of  an  hour. 

A  la  Parisienne. — Boil  half  a  pint  of 
milk,,  and  half  the  quantity  of  cream ; 
melt  one  ounce  of  butter  and  a  little  salt ; 
mix  in  a  spoonful  of  flour,  and  stir  it 
over  the  fire  for  five  minutes ;  pour  in 
the  milk  and  cream  by.  degrees,  and  work 
it  smooth,  taking  care  that  it  is  thorough- 
ly cooked.  Then  take  it  off,  and  add 
half  a  pound  of  grated  cheese,  some 
coarse  ground  pepper,  and  an  atom  of 
nutmeg,  with  a  v.ery  little  powdered 
sugar,  the  yolks  of  efght  eggs,  and  the 
whites  of  two,  well  beaten  ;  when  per- 
fectly mixed,  add  the  whites  of  six  eggs 
beaten  to  a  froth.  The  batter  should  be 
as  thick  as  cream.  Make  little  paper 
trays,  fill  them  three  parts  full,  and  bake 
them  in  a  very  slow  oven  eighteen  min- 
utes. 

Fried  Ramequins. — Grate  half  a  pound 
of  cheese,  and  melt  two  ounces  of  but- 
ter j  when  the  latter  is  getting  cool,  mix 
it  with  the  cheese  and  the  whites  of 
three  eggs  well  beaten.  Lay  buttered 
papers  on  a  frying-pan,  put  slices  of 
bread  upon  it,  and  lay  the  cheese  on  the 
top;  set  it  on  the  fire  for  about  five 
minutes,  then  take  it  oft,  and  brown  it 
with  a  salamander. 

1894— CHEESE  SOUFFLE,  OK  DIABLOTINS. 

Put  a  gill  of  milk  in  a  stewpan,  with 
two  ounces  of  butter  ;  when  boiling,  stir 
in  two  spoonfuls  of  flour,  keep  stirring 
over  the  fire  until  the  bottom  of  the 
stewpan  is  dry,  then  add  four  eggs  by 
degrees,  and  a  pound  of  grated  cheese ; 
mix  well  in,  season  with  pepper,  salt, 
and  cayenne,  rather  highly,  mould  the 
paste  into  little  balls  with  the  forefinger 


456 


THE  PRACTICAL  HOUSEKEEPER. 


against  the  side  of  the  stewpan  contain- 
ing it,  drop  them  into  hot  lard ;  fry  of  a 
nice  light  brown,  dress  in  pyramid  upon 
a  napkin,  and  serve  very  hot  j  a  quarter 
of  that  quantity  may  of  course  be  made. 
This  is  an  excellent  dish. 

1395.— STEWED  CHEESE. 

Grate  two  ounces  of  cheese;  put  it 
into  a  basin ;  mix  with  it  a  small  teacup- 
ful  of  cream  and  an  egg  beaten  and 
strained.  Put  into  a  small  saucepan  one 
ounce  or  half  an  ounce  of  butter,  accord- 
ing to  the  richness  of  the  cheese ;  let  it 
melt,  then  stir  in  the  other  ingredients, 
and  let  it  boil  until  well  mixed.  Serve  it 
hot  either  browned  or  plain. 

With  Ale. — Cut  the  cheese  into  slices, 
pare  off  the  rind,  and  put  it  into  a  dish 
over  a  lamp  ;  then  pour  on  as  much  ale 
as  will  cover  it,  and  let  it  stew  until  the 
cheese  is  dissolved.  This  is  a  Welsh 
method,  and  a  very  good  one.  The 
cheese  may  be  spread  with  mustard. 

A  very  delicious  sort  of  paste  may 
also  be  made  of  any  of  the  rich  cheeses, 
stewed  with  cream  and  yolk  of  egg, 
either  seasoned  savorily  or  sweetened ; 
and  eaten  hot  or  cold. 

1396.— WELSH  BABBIT. 

Put  mellow  cheese  into  a  saucepan 
with  about  one  ounce  of  butter  and  a 
very  little  ale  ;  stir  it  over  the  fire  until 
the  cheese  is  quite  dissolved ;  then  take 
it  off,  add  an  egg  well  beaten,  dish  it,  and 
brown  it  before  the  fire. 


Cheese-Toaster. 

Or,  Rasp  some  toasting  cheese  with  a 
bit  of  butter,  into  a  cheese-toaster,  and, 


when  the  cheese  dissolves  before  the  fire, 
put  it  upon  thin  slices  of  buttered  toast, 
of  which  the  crust  has  been  cut  off. 
Serve  it  very  hot,  or  the  cheese  will  be- 
come tough ;  and  eat  it  with  pepper,  salt, 
and  mustard. 

189T.-A  CHEESE  PUDDING. 

Grate  three  ounces  of  cheese  and  five 
of  bread ;  and  having  warmed  one  ounce 
of  butter  in  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  new 
milk,  mix  it  with  the  alcove ;  add  two 
well-beaten  eggs  and  a  little  salt.  Bake 
it  half  an  hour. 

This  is  a  nice  way  of  finishing  up  a 
cheese  when  little  but  the  rind  is  left. 

When  mites  have  taken  possession  of 
a  cheese,  and  this  is  considered  objec- 
tionable, the  following  receipt  will  have 
the  effect  of  destroying  them  without 
injury  to  the  cheese.  Wipe  the  cheese, 
put  it  into  a  pot  in  which  mutton  Has 
been  cooked  whilst  the  water  is  yet  hot, 
make  the  water  boil  a  few  seconds,  take 
out  the  cheese,  wipe  it  immediately,  dry 
it,  and  then  put  it  away  in  a  dry  place 
until  required  for  use. 

1898.— POTTED  CHEESE. 

Scrape  and  pound  cheese,  with  a  piece 
of  butter,  cayenne  pepper,  a  few  grains 
of  pounded  mace,  a  teaspoonful  of  sifted 
sugar,  a  glass  of  white  wine,  and  a  little 
salt ;  press  it  into  your  potting-jar  for 
shape.  It  may  be  potted  with  brandy. 

1899.— CHEESE  CBEAM,  A  PLAIN  FAMILY 
WAT. 

Put  three  half  pints  of  milk  to  one- 
half  pint  of  cream,  warm,  or  according  to 
the  same  proportions,  and  put  in  a  little 
rennet ;  keep  it  covered  in  a  warm  place 
till  it  is  curdled ;  have  a  mould  with 
holes,  either  of  china  or  any  other,  put 
the  curds  into  it  to  drain  about  an  hour, 
serve  with  good  plain  cream  and  pound- 
ed sugar  over  it. 


PANCAKES. 


457 


1400.-PANCAKE8. 

The  common  sort  are  composed  of  a 
light  batter,  made  of  eggs,  flour,  and 
milk,  fried  in  hot  dripping  or  lard,  only 
half  of  the  whites  of  the  eggs  being 
generally  used ;  but  salt,  or  nutmeg,  and 
ginger,  may  be  added,  and  sugar  and 
lemon  should  be  served  to  eat  with  them. 
Or,  when  eggs  are  scarce,  make  the  bat- 
ter with  flour  and  small  beer,  ginger,  &c. ; 
or  clean  snow,  with  flour,  and  a  very 
little  milk,  will  serve  as  well  as  eggs.  If 
the  family  be  large,  beat  eight  yolks  and 
four  whites  of  eggs,  strain  them  into  a 
pint  of  milk,  put  a  grated  nutmeg,  and 
sugar  to  your  taste  :  set  three  ounces  of 
fresh  butter  on  the  fire,  stir  it,  and  as  it 
warms  pour  it  to  the  milk,  which  should 
be  warm  when  the  eggs  are  put  to  it ; 
then  mix  smooth  almost  a  half  a  pound 
of  flour.  Fry  the  pancakes  very  thin ; 
the  first  with  a  bit  of  butter,  but  not  the 
others.  Serve  several  on  one  another, 
but  at  two  or  three  different  times,  "  hot 
and  hot." 

A  finer  kind  are  fried  without  but- 
.ter  or  lard,  as  thus: — Beat  six  fresh 
eggs  extremely  well ;  mix,  when  strained, 
with  a  pint  of  cream,  four  ounces  of 
sugar,  a  glass  of  good  French  brandy,  a 
half  a  nutmeg  grated,  the  grated  rind  of 
a  whole  lemon,  and  as  much  flour  as  will 
make  it  almost  as  thick  as  ordinary  pan- 
cake-batter, but  not  quite.  Heat  the 
frying-pan  tolerably  hot,  wipe  it  with  a 
clean  cloth ;  then  pour  in  the  batter  to 
make  thin  pancakes. 

1401.— APPLE  PANCAKES. 
Mix  two  large  spoonfuls  of  flour  in  a 
cup  of  milk  or  wine ;  when  smooth  add 
eight  eggs,  some  pounded  cinnamon, 
grated  lemon-peel,  a  handful  of  currantsj 
and  six  or  eight  apples  peeled  and  chop- 
ped :  mix  it  all  well  together  j  melt  some 
butter  in  a  frying-pan ;  when  hot  pour 
the  whole  mass  in,  arid  fry  it  on  both 


sides :  serve  it  stewed  with  pounded  cin- 
namon and  sugar  very  hot. 

1402.— NEW  ENGLAND  PANCAKES. 

Mix  a  pint  of  cream,  five  spoonfuls  of 
fine  flour,  seven  yolks  and  four  whites 
of-  eggs,  and  a  very  little  salt ;  fry  them 
very  thin  in  fresh  butter,  and  between 
each  strew  sugar  and  cinnamon.  Send  up 
six  or  eight  at  once. 


Waffle  Furnace. 

1403.— DUTCH  PANCAKES. 

Mix  one  pound  of  flour  with  a  half  a 
pound  of  sugar  and  a  table-spoonful  of 
cinnamon  in  powder ;  make  it  into  a  paste 
with  ten  eggs  and  two  glasses  of  white 
wine,  or  one  each  of  wine  and  brandy ; 
when  well  mixed,  roll  it  out  and  fry  like 
other  pancakes. 

1404.— CEEPES. 

Make  a  batter  with  flour,  milk  and 
eggs,  adding  brandy  and  orange-flower 
water.  In  two  or  three  hours  after- 
wards, melt  a  piece  of  butter  or  lard,  the 
size  of  a  walnut,  in  a  frying-pan,  pour  in 
some  batter,  and  shake  it  over  the  pan. 
When  done  on  one  side,  turn  it  over; 
when  the  other  side  is  done,  dish  it  and 
keep  hot  till  the  others  are  done}  sifting 
sugar  oyer  each. 

1405.— EICE  PANCAKES. 
To  half  a  pound  of  rice  put  two-thirds 
of  a  pint  of  water,  boil  it  to  a  jelly ; 
when  cold,  add  to  it  eight  eggs,  a  pint  of 
cream,  a  little  salt  and  nutmeg,  and  half 
a  pound  of  butter  melted;  mix  well, 
adding  the  butter  last,  and  working  it 


458 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


only  so  much  as  will  make  the  batter 
sufficiently  thick.  Fry  them  in  lard, 
but  employ  as  little  as  it  is  possible  to 
fry  them  with. 

1406.-FKITTEKS, 

Although  a  species  of  pancakes,  Are 
yet  not  so  wholly  composed  of  eggs,  and 
may  be  made  of  almost  any  substance 
fried  in  butter.  Make  them  of  any 
of  the  batters  directed  for  pancakes, 
dropping  a  small  quantity  into  the  pan, 
or  beat  six  eggs  very  lightly  and  quickly 
in  a  quart  of  milk,  adding  gradually  three 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  potato-flour. 
Have  ready  a  large  quantity  of  lard,  and 
when  boiling  hot  put  in  the  batter,  allow- 
ing for  each  fritter  half  a  teacupful.  They 
do  not  require  turning,  and  will  be  done 
in  a  few  minutes,  but  must  be  sent  to 
table  immediately,  or  they  will  become 
heavy ;  one  pound  and  a  half  of  lard  will 
be  required  for  the  above  quantity  of 
fritters ;  they  may  be  eaten  plainly  pow- 
dered with  loaf  sugar  or  sugar  and  cinna- 
mon, and  should  be  served  on  a  folded 
napkin  in  the  dish.  Any  sort  of  sweet- 
meat or  ripe  fruit  may  be  made  into 
fritters. 

For  plain  Fritters. — Grate  the  crumb 
of  a  penny  loaJ^  put  it  into  a  pint  of  milk 
over  the  fire,  and  beat  it  very  smooth ; 
when  cold,  add  the  yolks  of  five  eggs 
three  ounces  of  sifted  sugar,  and  half 
a  nutmeg.  Fry  them  in  hog's  lard,  and 
serve  pudding-sauce  in  a  boat. 

Apple-Fritters.— Take  the  yolks  of  six 
eggs,  and  the  whites  of  three;  beat  them 
well,  and  strain  them ;  then  add  a  pint 
of  milk,  a  little  salt,  half  a  nutmeg  grat- 
ed, and  a  glass  of  brandy.  Make  it  into 
thick  batter  with  fine  flour;  slice  the 
apples  in  rounds,  cut  out  the  core,  dust 
them  with  fine  sugar,  and  let  them  so  re- 
main for  two  hours ;  then  dip  each  slice 
in  batter,  and  fry  them  in  plenty  of  boil- 
ing lard  over  a  quick  fire.  They  require 


lard  sufficient  to  swim  in.    Glaze  with 
sugar. 

Oreme  Frite  aux  Amandes. — Boil  one 
pint  of  milk  with  two  bay-leaves,  a  little 
emon-peel,  and  a  small  piece  of  cinnamon. 
When  the  flavor  is  extracted,  strain  it ; 
add  two  table-spoonfuls  of  arrowroot, 
and  sugar  to  palate ;  stir  it  well  over  the 
ire,  and  add  the  yolks  of  four  eggs,  two 
ounces  of  chopped  almonds,  and  a  wine- 
;lass  of  cream.  Cook  the  whole  over  the 
fire  for  about  four  minutes,  stirring  it  all 
the  time ;  then  pour  it  on  a  tin  which  has 
been  well  buttered,  spread  it  about  half 
an  inch  thick,  put  it  into  the  oven  for  ten 
minutes,  let  it  get  thoroughly  cool,  cut 
out  with  a  round  cutter,  dip  into  fine 
bread-crumbs,  then  into  egg  beat  up  very 
thin,  and  again  into  crumbs ;  fry  in  hot 
lard :  dust  over  with  sugar,  and  send  to 
table. 

French  Fritters. — Mix  two  eggs,  well 
beaten  and  strained,  with  as  much  new 
milk  and  flour  as  shall  make  one  thick 
pancake,  which  fry  as  pale  as  you  can. 
Pound  it  in  a  mortar  quite  smooth,  and 
add  the  yolks  of  four  and  whites  of  two 
eggs,  one  large  spoonful  of  orange-flower 
water  or  cinnamon-water,  one  ounce  of 
blanched  almonds  beaten  to  a  paste,  two 
ounces  of  white  sugar,  and  one-quarter 
of  a  small  nutmeg.  Pound  it  all  till  it 
becomes  smooth  batter.  Have  ready  a 
large  stewpan  half  full  of  fine  lard  quite 
hot,  and  drop  the  batter  into  it,  the  size 
of  large  nuts,  until  the  surface  be  filled  : 
as  they  brown,  turn  them :  they  will  be 
very  large :  when  done,  remove  them  on 
clean  paper,  in  a  dish  before  the  fire,  and 
do  the  remainder.  Berve  as  quickly  as 
possible.  They  are  excellent. 

Potato  Fritters.— Boil  two  large  po- 
tatoes, scrape  them  fine,  beat  four  yolks 
and  three  whites  of  eggs,  and  add  one 
large  spoonful  of  cream,  another  of  sweet 
wine,  a  squeeze  of  lemon,  and  a  little  nut- 
meg. Beat  this  batter  half  an  hour  at 


BEIGNETS. — EGGS. 


459 


least.  It  will  be  extremely  light.  Put 
a  good  quantity  of  fine  lard  in  astewpan, 
and  drop  a  spoonful  of  the  batter  at  a 
time  into  it.  Fry  them,  and  serve  in  a 
sauce  boat,  a  glass  of  white  wine,  the 
juice  of  a  lemon,  one  dessert-spoonful  of 
peach  leaf  or  almond  water,  and  some 
white  sugar,  warmed  together. 

Curd  Fritters.  —  Rub  down  in  a  mor- 
tar a  quart  of  dried  curd,  with  the  yolks 
of  eight  and  whites  of  four  well  beaten 
eggs,  two  ounces  of  sifted  sugar,  half  a 
nutmeg,  and  half  a  spoonful  of  flour.  Drop 
the  batter  into  a  frying  pan,  with  a  little 
butter  or  fine  lard. 


Orange  and  Sweetmeat  Fritters.  — 
two  oranges,  then  cut  them  in  slices 
across,  and  take  out  all  the  seeds,  dip  the 
slices  of  orange  in  batter,  as  for  apple- 
fritters,  and  fry  them.  Serve  with  pow- 
dered sugar  upon  each  fritter. 

1407.—  BEIGNETS. 

Mix  and  work  well  together  half  a 
pound  of  flour,  and  two  ounces  of  butter, 
or  three  table-spoonfuls  of  sweet  oil,  and 
*  make  it  into  a  batter  with  some  warm 
water  ;  then  mix  into  the  batter  a  couple 
of  raw  eggs,  keeping  the  yolk  of  one  for 
browning.  The  materials  may  thus  be 
made  of  any  degree  of  consistence,  so  as 
to  act  as  thick  batter,  or  as  thin  paste  by 
the  addition  of  a  little  flour  j  and  being 
made  into  small  balls,  are  spread  with  the 
remaining  yolk  of  egg,  powdered  usually 
with  sugar,  and  fried  in  hot  lard  ;  and, 
when  ready  to  be  served,  put  them  for  a 
moment  on  a  hair  sieve  to  dram  off  the 
fat, 

If  made  solely  with  paste,  without 
mince  of  any  kind,  they  should  have  an- 
other egg,  and  the  batter  be  more  con- 
tinually beaten,  so  as  to  render  the 
beignets  light  ;  then,  when  prepared  for 
dressing,  take  a  spoonful  of  the  batter 
formed  into  a  ball,  and  drop  it  into  the 


boiling  lard.  A  large  dishful  will  be  fried 
in  six  or  seven  minutes. 

VARIOUS  MODES  OF  COOKING 
EGGS. 

Unless  an  egg  is  perfectly  fresh  it  is 
unfit  for  any  purpose.  You  may  try  the 
freshness  of  eggs  by  putting  them  in  a 
pan  of  cold  water.  Those  that  sink  the 
soonest  are  the  freshest.  Eggs  may  be 
preserved  a  short  time  by  putting  them 
in  a  jar  of  salt  or  lime-water  with  the 
small  ends  downwards.  The  salt  should 
not  afterwards  be  used.  They  may  be 
preserved  several  months  by  greasing 
them  all  over  with  melted  mutton  suet, 
and  wedging  them  close  together  in  a 
box  of  bran.  The  small  ends  always 
downwards. 

There  are,  of  course,  several  sorts  of 
eggs,  according  to  the  species  of  poultry 
which  produce  them.  The  turkey  egg  is 
the  largest  and  the  most  delicate,  after 
which,  in  point  of  flavor,  is  the  guinea- 
hen's,  and,  in  that  of  size,  those  of  the 
goose  and  duck.  Although  all  these  are 
employed  in  cookery,  yet  the  eggs  of  the 
"common  barn-door  fowl"  are  those  most 
generally  used  when  served  up  separate- 
ly and  boiled  in  the  shell,  in  which  case 
the  mam  point  is  their  entire  freshness. 
This  can  partly  be  judged  of  by  putting 
them  between  you  and  the  light,  and 
seeing  that  the  white  is  clear  and  the 
yolk  unclouded;  for  although  nothing 
can  be  more  delicately  nutritive  when 
newly  laid,  few  things  are  more  nause- 
ous when  they  are  stale. 

1408.— TO  KEEP  EGGS  FOE  WINTER  USE. 

Pour  a  full  gallon  of  boiling  water  on 
two  quarts  of  quicklime  and  half  a 
pound  of  salt ;  when  cold,  mix  into  it  an 
ounce  of  cream  of  tartar.  The  day  fol- 
lowing put  in  the  eggs.  After  the  lime 
has  been  stirred  well  into  the  boiling 
water,  a  large  part  of  it  will  settle  at  the 


460 


THE   PRACTICAL    HOUSEKEEPER. 


bottom  of  the  vessel,  on  which  the  eggs 
will  remain.  Keep  them  covered  with 
the  liquor,  and  they  will  keep  for  two 
years. 

1409— TO  BOIL  EGGS. 

To  effect  the  simple  process  of  boiling 
demands  constant  attention,  as  half  a 
minute  more  or  less  may  spoil  the  egg 
for  a  fastidious  palate.  Some  put  them 
into  cold  water,  and,  when  it  boils,  allow 
the  eggs  to  remain  in  it  for  a  minute 
longer ;  while  others  prefer  putting  them 
into  boiling  water,  and  there  leaving 
them  until  done.  That  time  is  most 
commonly  three  minutes,  and  seldom 
less ;  but  many  persons  object  to  their 
being  left  so  soft,  and  four  or  five  min- 
utes are  not  unusual  if  the  eggs  are  not 
"new-laid."  Ten  minutes  are  required 
for  making  the  yolks  hard  enough  for 
salad,  after  which  the  eggs  should  be  put 
for  some  time  into  cold  water  to  harden, 
or  the  yolks  will  not  readily  incorporate 
with  the  condiments.- 

It  should,  however,  be  understood  that, 
in  whatever  way  the  egg  is  to  be  boiled, 
it  should  be  completely  covered  with 
water ;  that  if  put  into  the  water  while 
boiling,  the  shell  is  subject  to  being 
cracked ;  and  if  boiled  too  suddenly,  the 
white  becomes  hard,  while  the  yolk  re- 
mains comparatively  soft.  The  cook 
should  therefore  be  provided  with  min- 
ute glasses  of  various  sizes — from  one 
minute  to  five — to  mark  the  time;  for 
they  are  more  accurate  than  the  hand 
of  a  kitchen  clock,  and  do  not  require  so 
much  watching. 

i4io.— TO  POACH  "EGGS  . 

Is  to  boil  them  without  their  shells, 
and  requires  still  greater  care.  The 
water  must  be  perfectly  pure,  and  the 
yolk  must  be  only  just  so  much  done  as 
to  fix  itself  firmly  in  the  centre  of  the 
white. 


Egg  Poacher. 

Put  a  moderate  quantity  of  water  in- 
to a  broad  fiat  stewpan.  French  cooks 
add  to  it,  when  boiling,  a  spoonful  of 
vinegar  and  a  little  salt.  Take  the  pan 
off  the  fire  whilst  putting  in  the  eggs ; 
break  the  egg  into  a  teacup  or  small  la- 
dle, and  turn  it  gently  into  the  water,  so 
as  to  prevent  the  yolk  from  being  mixed 
with  the  white ;  let  them  stand  till  be- 
ginning to  set;  then  let  the  eggs  boil 
gently  until  you  perceive  that  they  are 
done,  by  the  white  being  set,  and  the 
yolk  appearing  through  it  in  a  compara- 
tively soft  state;  then  take  each  from 
the  water  with  an  egg-slice,  and  pare  off 
any  ragged  edges,  which  may  appear 
around  it,  before  sending  to  table.  This  «• 
latter  operation,  however,  if  not  quickly 
done,  cools  the  egg,  which  ought  to  be 
served  quite  hot,  to  avoid  which  incon- 
venience, a  little  machine  for  poaching 
has  been  invented. 

Poached  eggs  are  commonly  placed 
upon  buttered  toast,  broiled  ham,  or  boil- 
ed spinach. 

1411.— OMELETTE. 

This  is  the  most  usual  mode  of  dressing 
eggs,  after  that  of  boiling  them  in  the 
shell. 

Four  eggs  will  make  a  very  pretty  siz- 
ed omelet,  but  the  number  must  of  course 
depend  on  the  size  required.  If  sweet 
herbs  be  put  in,  a  good  deal  of  parsley 
should  form  part ;  tarragon  gives  a  high 
flavor,  and  chives  or  shalots  are  not  un- 


OMELETTES. 


461 


frequently  used,  but  care  should  be  taken 
that  the  flavor  should  not  overpower  that 
of  the  other  ingredients. 

Omelets  are  judiciously  varied  by 
mixing  grated  ham  or  tongue  with  minc- 
ed anchovies,  when  served  at  supper  or 
as  a  side-dish  at  dinner;  but  when  in 
tended  for  the  breakfast-table,  it  is  more 
delicate  to  make  them  of  eggs  alone. 

Although  a  common  frying-pan  may 
be  used,  yet  one  made  -on  purpose,  not 
larger  than  the  size  of  a  dessert-plate, 
should  be  employed,  so  as  not  to  allow 
the  omelet  too  much  spreading,  for  it 
should  always  be  kept  of  a  certain  degree 
of  thickness  to  secure  the  softness  of  the 
inside.  It  is  therefore  only  to  be  fried 
on  one  side,  and  when  the  under  is 
browned  and  the  upper  brought  to  a 
moderate  state  of  consistence,  the  fried 
side  is  to  be  folded  over  the  other  in 
three.  » 

Butter  is  better  than  either  lard  or 
dripping  for  the  frying  of  an  omelet.  Any 
sort  of  pot-herbs  is  admissible ;  and  many 
sorts  of  minced  fowl  and  fish  are  pre- 
pared in  that  manner.  There  are  hun- 
dreds of  receipts  for  omelets,  but  the 
principle  is  the  same  in  all,  the  difference 
being  only  in  the  flavoring. 

1412.— OMELETTE  ATI  NATUKEL. 

Take  four  eggs,  beat  the  yolks  and 
whites  together  with  a  table-spoonful  of 
milk,  a  little  salt  and  pepper ;  put  two 
ounces  of  butter  into  a  frying-pan  to 
boil,  and  let  it  remain  until  it  begins  to 
brown ;  pour  the  batter  into  it,  and  let 
it  remain  quiet  for  a  minute ;  turn  up 
the  edges  of  the  omelet  gently  from  the 
bottom  of  the  pan  with  a  fork ;  shake  it, 
to  keep  it  from  burning  at  the  bottom, 
and  fry  it  till  of  a  bright  brown.  It 
will  not  take  more  than  five  minutes 
frying. 

Aux  fines  Herbes. — Beat  up  four  eggs 
with  a  little  cream,  salt,  pepper,  chives. 


and  parsley,,  minced  very  small.  Put  a 
piece  of  butter  half  the  size  of  an  egg 
into  the  frying-pan;  let  it  begin  to 
brown ;  pour  in  the  omelet,  and  allow  it 
to  set  a  little ;  then  raise  it  round  the 
edge,  to  allow  more  of  the  mixture  to 
become  brown.  When  that  is  done, 
turn  it  over  to  double  it ;  but  as  in 
browning  the  lower  side  the  upper  will 
sometimes  appear  too  soft ;  in  that  case 
make  a  slight  use  of  the  salamander,  to 
give  it  firmness ;  put  the  dish  on  the  fry- 
ing-pan, and  turn  it  over.  Let  the  fir« 
be  clear,  but  not  too  hot. 

Aux  Confitures. — Beat  up  eight  eggs 
with  a  table-spoonful  of  powdered  sugar, 
a  little  nutmeg,  a  pinch  of  salt,  some 
finely -chopped  lemon-peel,  and  a  wine- 
glass of  creanij  or  about  a  quarter  of  an 
ounce  of  butter.  Make  an  omelet -pan 
hot,  put  in  a  small  piece  ef  butter,  and, 
when  the  'eggs  are  thoroughly  mixed, 
pour  them  into  the  pan ;  stir  it  about, 
and,  when  set,  arrange  the  omelet  neatly 
in  the  pan ;  lay  on  two  spoonfuls  of  jam, 
roll  it  up,  and  glaze  it  with  sugar  and 
the  salamander.  Any  of  the  preserved 
fruits,  when  prepared  as  jam,  will  answer 
the  purpose. 

Uhe  Omelette  aux  Amandes  is  also 
looked  upon  as  a  delicacy,  and  made  by 
substituting  almond-flour,  or  pounded 
sweet  almonds,  for  jam. 

Une  Omelette  cPHuitres  may  be  made 
with  four  raw  eggs,  a  little  cream,  beaten 
up  either  with  or  without  sweet  herbs 
and  grated  ham,  but  seasoned  with  a 
little  salt,  pepper,  and  nutmeg,  together 
with  a  dozen  oysters  bearded,  dried, 
minced  very  small,  and  fried  in  butter. 

1413.— OMELETTE  SOUFFL&E. 

Take  six  eggs,  separate  the  whites  from 
the  yolks,  add  to  the  yolks  a  table-spoon- 
ful of  arrowroot  or  potato-flour,  six 
ounces  of  pounded  loaf-sugar,  some 
grated  lemon-peel,  and  a  small  quantity 


462 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


of  lemon-zest,  or  chopped  peel,  or  orange- 
flower  water.  Beat  the  whole  together 
for  several  minutes,  until  they  are  made 
into  a  batter,  and  then  whip  the  whites 
until  they  become  a  froth  ;  stir  in  lightly 
the  batter.  Have  ready  an  omelet-pan 
of  the  proper  size  heated  upon  the  stove ; 
put  into  it  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter, 
and  when  it  begins  to  boil  put  the  whole 
into  the  pan,  and  stir  it  with  a  spoon 
carefully  until  it  becomes  partially  firm. 
That  done,  turn  it  out  upon  a  small  cir- 
cular dish,  of  silver  or  metal,  as  the  ome- 
let ought  to  acquire  the  form  of  a  dome, 
and  the  dish  be  placed  in  a  very  mode- 
rately heated  oven  for  at  least  ten  min- 
tues  or  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  according 
to  the  care  and  nicety ^with  which  it  has 
been  made;  after  which  it  will  have 
risen  into  a  puff  of  considerable  height, 
similar  to  the  fashionable  supper  dish, 
'•  trifle."  It  should  then  be  sprinkled 
with  a  little  powdered  sugar,  the  sala- 
mander held  over  it,  and  be  served  im- 
mediately. 

An  Omelette  Souffle  should  not  be 
cooked  till  the  moment  it  is  wanted.  Its 
whole 'delicacy,  indeed,  depends  upon  its 
being  quickly  baked,  being  very  light, 
and,  as  Dr.  Kitchiner  observes,  its  mak- 
ing but  one  movement — viz. :  from  the 
fire  to  the  throat  of  the  guest.  The  great 
art  is  to  make  it  light,  foamy,  and,  as  it 
were,  effervescent. 

1414— (EUFS  FEITS,  OB  FEIED  EGGS. 

Break  some  fresh  eggs  into  a  dish, 
without  damaging  the  yolks,  and  powder 
over  them  a  little  pepper  and  salt.  Then 
fry  some  butter ;  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
will  do  for  a  dozen  eggs.  When  the 
butter  is  completely  fried,  pour  it  over 
the  eggs,  and  then  put  them  into  the  fry- 
ing-pao,  which  keep  at  a  little  distance 
from  the  fire,  for  fear  the  eggs  should 
stick.  When  they  are  done  at  the  bot- 
tom, use  the  salamander  for  the  top,  till 


they  turn  white.  Then  dish  without 
breaking  them,  and  pour  over  them  a 
little  vinegar. 

1415.— PLAIN  BAKED  EGGS. 

Butter  with  one  ounce  a  plated  or  com- 
mon tart-dish,  that  will  bear  the  heat  of 
the  oven ;  break  carefully  six  eggs  in  it, 
season  with  one  pinch  of  pepper,  half  a 
spoonful  of  salt,  the  juice  of  half  a 
lemon,  and  add  'half  an  ounce  of  butter 
in  small  pieces  over ;  put  in  a  slack  oven 
until  set,  and  serve.  * 

1416.— EANDALLED  EGGS. 

Twelve  eggs  boiled  hard  and  halved ; 
cut  a  piece  from  the  ends  of  half  of  them 
to  allow  them  to  stand,  take  out  the 
yolks,  chop  them,  and  mix  chopped  boil- 
ed ham  or  tongue,  season  with  nutmeg 
and  mace,  moisten  with  butter,  and  put 
it  in  the  space  within  the  egg.  Put  the 
halves  together,  and  stand  the  joined 
eggs  on  end  in  the  dish. 

1417.— (EUFS  FAECIS. 

Boil  six  eggs  hard,  remove  the  shells, 
but  leave  the  eggs  whole ;  cover  them 
with  a  rich  forcemeat  made  with  scraped 
ham,  .pounded  anchovy,  pounded  veal,  and 
bacon  fat,  well  pounded  together  and 
highly  Reasoned;  brush  them  with  the 
yolk  of  egg,  and  dredge  them  with  bread- 
crumbs or  vermicelli;  fry  them  a  pale 
gold  color,  or  put  them  for  a  quarter  of 
an  hour  in  an  oven,  and  serve  them  up 
with  gravy  in  the  dish. 

(Eufs  sur  le  plat  is  a  German  mode  of 
frying  an  egg  by  means  of  a  small  cheese 
plate,  which,  being  thoroughly  warmed, 
is  greased  in  the  indented  part  with  a 
bit  of  butter  or  a  very  little  sweet-oil, 
and  into  this  part  the  egg  is  broken  from 
the  shell,  thus  retaining  the  exact  rotun- 
dity of  the  plate,  which  is  then  placed 
upon  the  gridiron  over  a  good  fire.  It 


EGGS. 


463 


may  be  slightly  browned,  if  thought  fit, 
with  a  salamander,  but  does  not  need  it ; 
and  though  quite  as  delicate,  yet  renders 
the  egg  rather  more  savory  than  by 
poaching. 

1418.— EGGS  AND  VEGETABLES. 

Eggs  and  Spinach. — Poach  half  *  a 
dozen  eggs,  trim  them  nicely,  and  serve 
them  upon  stewed  spinach. 

Eggs  and  Onions,  or  a  la  Tripe. — Skin 
six  or  eight  onions,  mince  them,  put  some 
butter  into  a  stewpan  and  melt  it,  add 
about  two  spoonfuls  of  flour,  mix  both 
well  together,  then  add  the  onions,  and 
wet  them  with  milk,  cream  or  water ;  let 
them  stew,  taking  care  that  the  onions 
and  butter  do  not  become  brown ;  season 
with  a  little  salt  and  white  pepper ;  cut 
some  hard  eggs  into  slices,  and  when  the 
sauce  is  ready  put  them  in ;  make  the 
whole  very  hot,  and  serve  it  up. 

I 

1419.— CEUFS  BKQUILLES. 

Break  four  or  six  eggs  ;  beat  them  and 
put  them  into  a  saucepan  with  a  piece  of 
butter,  a  little  salt,  and  a  spoonful  of 
sauce  or  gravy,  which  makes  the  eggs 
softer ;  stir  them  over  the  fire  until  suf- 
ficiently thick  ;  serve  on  a  plate  garnished 
with  toasted  bread.  To  eggs  dressed 
this  way,  truffles,  ham,  mushrooms,  &c., 
minced,  may  be  added.  The  difference 
between  this  and  an  omelet  is,  that  an 
omelet  is  compact  and  turns  out  smooth, 
whereas  o&ufs  Itrouilles  are  less  done,  and 
are  therefore  broken. 

In  Ireland,  where  it  is  in  general  use, 
it  is  usually  served  upon  hot  buttered 
toast,  and  is  there  called  "  luttered  eggs." 
It  is  also  very  common  in  France,  where 
it  is  usually  served  for  breakfast. 

A  very  pretty  dish  of  eggs  is  made  thus  : 
— Break  some  eggs  into  a  small  tart- 
dish,  without  injuring  the  yolks,  or  lay- 
ing one  over  the  other.  Drop  on  them 
some  warm  butter,  and  lightly  strew 


crumbs  of  bread.  Put  it  in  the  oven 
until  the  whites  be  set,  and  serve  with  a 
wreath  of  parsley  round  the  edge. 

1420— EGGS  WITH  BUKNT  BUTTEE. 

Put  into  a  frying  pan  two  ounces  of 
butter,  which  melt ;  as  soon  as  it  is  on 
the  point  of  browning,  put  in  the  eggs, 
which  have  been  previously  brokea  in  a 
basin,  and  seasoned  with  pepper  and  salt ; 
when  well  set,  serve,  with  a  teaspoonful 
of  vinegar  over  the  eggs. 

1421.— SNOW  EGGS. 

Take  half  a  pint  of  milk  and  a  little 
sugar,  and  flavor  it  with  orange-flower 
water,  or  any  other  essence,  and  put  it 
in  a  stewpan  on  the  fire,  h|vmg  previous- 
ly beaten  up  the  whites  $T  six  eggs  to  a 
stiff  froth ;  if  very  hot  weather,  you  must 
place  the  basin  they  are  in  on  ice,  or  in 
cold  water ;  whilst  beating  add  some 
powdered  sugar  lightly ;  when  the  milk 
is  boiling,  take  the  white  up  with  a  table- 
spoon, and  drop  it,  one  table-spoonful  at 
a  time,  into  the  stewpan  to  poach,  keep- 
ing the  shape  of  an  egg,  which  turn  over 
when  set ;  when  done,  remove  with  a 
colander  on  to  a  sieve,  and  dress  them 
in  a  crown  on  the  dish  you  intend  to 
serve  them  on ;  when  all  done,  beat  up 
the  yolks  of  four  of  the  eggs  in  a  stew- 
pan, with  a  little  sugar,  and  a  few  drops 
of  orange-flower  water,  pour  part  of  the 
boiling  milk  out  of  the  stewpan  into  it, 
sufficient  to  make  a  good  stiff  custard, 
put  it  on  the  fire  until  rather  thick,  and 
pour  over  the  white,  and  serve  either  hot 
or  cold :  the  last  is  preferable. 

1422.— EGGS  IN  CASES. 
Cut  up  a  sheet  of  paper  into  pieces  of 
three  inches  square,  turn  up  half  an  inch 
all  round  so  as  to  form  a  kind  of  square 
case ;  there  will  then  remain  but  two 
inches  square  in  the  inside.  Take  a 
small  piece  of  butter,  a  pinch  of  fine 
bread  crumbs,  a  little  fine  chopped  pars- 
ley, spring. onions,  salt,  and  pepper,  and 


464: 


THE   PRACTICAL  HOUSEKEEPER. 


mix  them  together,  put  a  little  into  each 
case,  then  break  one  egg  into  each,  put 
them  on  a  gridiron  over  a  slow  fire,  and 
do  them  gently,  or  place  them  in  a  dish 
in  an  oven  5  when  well  set,  serve.  Small 
round  paper  cases  may  be  procured  very 
cheap. 

1423.— GARNITURE  FOR  OMELETTES. 

Asparagus,  Peas,  and  Green  Peas. — 
Put  in  a  stevvpan  three  spoonfuls  of  plain 
boiled  asparagus,  that  has  previously 
been  cut  up,  add  to  it  half  an  ounce  of 
butter,  a  little  salt,  pepper,  and  sugar, 
warm  it  orfthe  fire,  moving  it  continually, 
when  warm,  put  it  with  a  spoon  in  the 
centre  of  the  omelette,  turn  over,  and 
serve;  the  same  with  peas;  rather  thin 
melted  butter  or  white  sauce  may  be 
served  round  it. 

Oysters. — Open  and  blanch  delicately 
twelve  middle-sized  oysters,  and  put 
them  in  a  stewpan  with  their  own  gravy, 
after  having  bearded  them,  add  a  talble- 
spoonful  of  milk  or  cream,  and  give  it  a 
boil,  then  add  half  an  ounce  of  butter,  in 
which  you  have  mixed  a  saltspoonful  of 
flour,  stir  it  in  without  breaking  the 
oysters,  put  over  the  centre  of  your 
omelette,  and  proceed  as  before. 

Lobster. — Cut  half  or  a  small  one  in 
thin  slices,  put  four  table-spoonfuls  of 
melted  butter  in  a  stewpan,  a  few  drops 
of  essence  of  anchovies,  and  a  little 
cayenne;  put  in  your  lobster,  warm  it 
well,  and  put  it  in  the  middle  of  the 
omelerte,  as  above. 

Mushroom. — Wash  about  ten  small 
fresh  mushrooms,  cut  in  slices,  put  in  a 
stewpan,  with  half  an  ounce  of  butter,  a 
little  salt,  pepper,  and  the  juice  of  a 
quarter  of  a  lemon,  simmer  for  a  few 
minutes  on  the  fire  till  tender ;  if  too 
liquid,  add  a  little  flour,  place  in  centre 
of  omelette,  and  proceed  as  above. 

Bacon. — Cut  two  ounces  of  good  lean 
bacon  in  small  dice,  put  in  a  pan  to  fry 


with  a  pat  of  butter  for  one  minute,  then 
mix  with  the  eggs  prepared  as  for  ome- 
lette of  herbs,  omitting  the  salt,  and  cook 
the  same  way.  This  omelette  is  in  great 
repute  in  France,  especially  among  the 
epicures  of  the  Barrieres,  outside  of 
Paris.  It  prepares  the  palate  to  receive 
with  pleasure  the  cheap  and  acid  wines 
sold  there,  which  must  have  been  in- 
vented by  Bacchus  when  in  a  sour 
humor. 


TO  MAKE  BKEAD. 

1424 

For  a  good  baking,  take  two  and  a  half 
pecks  of  wheat  flour ;  put  it  into  a  knead- 
ing trough  or  earthen  pan  well  glazed; 
make  a  hole  in  the  centre  of  the  flour 
and  pour  in  a  pint  or  more  of  good  brew- 
er's yeast,  or  still  more  of  home-made, well 
mixed  with  a  pint  of  milk-warm  water. 
Stir  in,  with  a  spoon,  flour  enough  to 
make  a  batter ;  sprinkle  this  with  dry 
flour,  and  cover  it  entirely.  Cover  the 
whole  lightly  with  a  cloth,  and  set  it  by 
the  fire.  This  is  setting  the  sponge. 
When  the  batter  has  swelled  and  risen 
so  as  to  form  cracks  in  the  flour  covering 
it,  scatter  through  it  two  table-spoonfuls 
of  fine  salt,  and  mix  the  flour  with  soft 
warm  water,  added  by  degrees.  Work 
and  mould  the  dough  thoroughly,  knead- 
ing it  till  smooth  and  light,  and  till  not 
a  particle  will  stick  to  the  hands.  Then 
sprinkle  a  mass  of  dough  with  flour, 
cover  it  with  a  warm  cloth,  and  let  it 
stand  near  the  fire  for  an  hour,  or  less  in 
warm  weather.  It  has  now  risen  to  its 
height.  Divide  it  into  seven  loaves; 
mould  and  form  them  lightly  on  the 
paste-board,  put  -them  on  floured  tin  or 
arthen  plates,  and  place  them  in  the 
oven. 

With  good,  dry,  hard  wood,  the  oven 
will  be  heated  in  an  hour.  When  the 
coals  are  spread  over  the  bottom,  the 
oven  will  be  clear  of  smoke.  Clean  and 


BREAD. 


465 


sweep  it,  and  throw  in  a  little  flour  to 
see  if  it  is  too  hot ;  if  it  burns  black  at 
once,  let  the  oven  cool  a  little.  When 
the  loaves  are  in,  close  the  oven  and 
keep  it  tight.  The  loaves  should  be 
done  in  from  an  hour  to  an  hour  and  a 
half. 

When  the  loaves  are  baked,  take  them 
from  the  oven,  and  put  them  on  a  clean 
shelf,  in  a  cool  pantry,  with  a  light  cloth 
over  them.  If  the  crust  is  scorched,  or 
the  bread  too  much  baked,  wrap  the 
loaves  in  a  clean  coarse  towel,  slightly 
damped.  * 

1425.— BEOWN,  OE  DYSPEPSIA  BEEAD. 

Take  six  quarts  of  wheat  meal,  rather 
coarsely  ground,  one  teacup  of  good 
yeast,  and  half  a  teacup  of  molasses,  mix 
these  with  a  pint  of  milk-warm  water 
and  a  teaspoonful  of  saleratus.  Make 
a  hole  in  the  meal  and  stir  this  mix- 
ture in  the  middle  till  it  is  like  bat- 
ter. Then  proceed  as  with  fine  flour 
bread.  Make  the  dough,  when  sufficient- 
ly light,  into  four  loaves,  which  will 
weigh  two  pounds  per  loaf  when  baked. 
It  requires  a  hotter  oven  than  fine  flour 
bread,  and  must  bake  about  an  hour  and 
a  half. 

1426.— EYE  AND  INDIAN  BEEAD. 

There  are  many  different  proportions 
in  the  mixing  of  this  bread.  Some -put 
one-third  Indian  with  two  of  rye  ;  others 
like  one-third  rye  and  two  of  Indian ; 
others  prefer  it  half  and  half. 

If  you  use  the  largest  proportion  of 
rye  meal,  make  your  dough  stiffj  so  that 
it  will  mould  into  loaves  ;  when  it  is 
two-thirds  Indian,  it  should  be  softer 
and  baked  in  deep  earthen  or  tin  pans 
after  the  following  rules  : 

Take  four  quarts  of  sifted  Indian  meal: 
put  it  into  a  glazed  earthen  pan,  sprinkle 
over  it  a  table-spoonful  of  fine  salt ;  pour 
over  it  about  two  quarts  of  boiling 
water,  stir  and*work  it  till  every  part  of 


the  meal  is  thoroughly  wet ;  Indian  meal 
absorbs  a  greater  quantity  of  water. 
When  it  is  about  milk-warm,  work  hi 
two  quarts  of  rye  meal,  half  a  pint  of 
lively  yeast,  mixed  with  a  pint  of  warm 
water ;  add  more  warm  water  if  needed. 
Work  the  mixture  well  with  your  hands : 
it  should  be  stiff,  but  not  firm  as  flour 
dough.  Have  ready  a  large,  deep,  well 
buttered  pan;  put  in  the  dough,  and 
smooth  the  top  by  putting  your  hand  in 
warm  water,  and  then  patting  down  the 
loaf.  Set  this  to  rise  in  a  warm  place  in 
the  winter ;  in  the  summer  it  should  not 
be  put  by  the  fire.  When  it  begins  to 
crack,  on  the  top,  which  will  usually  be 
in  about  an  hour  or  an  hour  and  a  half, 
put  it  into  a  well  heated  oven,  and  bake 
it  three  or  four  hours.  It  is  better  to 
let  it  stand  in  the  oven  all  night,  unless 
the  weather  is  warin.  Indian  meal  re- 
quires to  be  well  cooked.  The  loaf  will 
weigh  between  seven  and  eight  pounds. 

There  is  another  mode  which  many 
persons  think  preferable.  Scald  a  quart 
of  rye  and  another  of  Indian  meal  with 
a  small  quantity  of  boiling  water.  Boil 
a  teaspoonful  of  salt  in  a  pint  and  a  half 
of  milk,  mix  the  rye  and  Indian  to- 
gether, and  pour  the  milk  over  them — 
add  half  a  pint  of  fresh  yeast ;  but  not 
before  the  meal  is  cooling.  The  mixture 
must  be  well  kneaded  and  placed  in  a 
deep  pan  by  the  fire  to  rise.  When  it 
has  risen  sufficiently,  take  it  out  of  the 
pan,  make  it  into  any  shape  you  like, 
and  put  it  into  an  oven  well  heated.  If 
the  fire  is  too  brisk  the  crust  will  brown 
and  the  inside  remain  heavy.  „ 

Bake  from  two  to  three  hours. 

1427.— TO  MAKE  EXCELLENT  BEEAD 
WITHOUT  YEAST. 

Scald  about  two  handfuls  of  Indian 
meal ;  into  which  put  a  little  salt,  and  as 
much  cold  water  as  will  make  it  rather 
warmer  than  new  milk ;  then  stir  in 
wheat  flour,  till  it  is  as  thick  as  a  family 


106 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER 


pudding,  and  set  it  down  by  the  fire  to 
rise.  In  about  half  an  hour  it  generally 
grows  thin;  you  may  sprinkle  a* little 
fresh  flour  on  the  top,  and  mind  to  turn 
the  pot  round,  that  it  may  not  bake  at 
the  side  of  it.  In  three  or  four  hours,  if 
you  mind  the  above  directions,  it  will 
rise  and  ferment  as  if  you  had  set  it 
with  hop  yeast ;  when  it  does,  make  it 
up  in  soft  dough,  flour  a  pan,  put  in 
your  bread,  set  it  before  the  fire,  covered 
up,  turn  it  round  to  make  it  equally 
warm,  and  in  about  half  an  hour  it  will 
be  light  enough  to  bake.  It  suits  best  to 
bake  it  in  a  Dutch  oven,  as  it  should  be 
put  into  the  oven  as  soon  as  it  is  light. 

1428.— TO  MAKE  YEAST. 

The  settlings  of  home-brewed  beer  in 
a  clean  cask,  make  good  yeast.  Com- 
mon yeast  is  made  thus : 

Take  two  quarts  of  water,  one  hand- 
ful of  hops,  two  of  wheat  bran  ;  boil  these 
twenty  minutes;  strain  off  the  water, 
and  while  it  is  boiling  hot,  stir  in  wheat 
or  rye  flour,  to  a  thick  batter :  when 
this  is  milk-warm,  add  half  a  pint  of 
good  lively  yeast  and  a  large  spoonful  of 
molasses  ;  stir  well  and  set  it  away,  in  a 
cool  place  in  summer  and  a  warm  one  in 
winter.  When  light  it  is  fit  for  use. 
When  cold,  it  may  be  put  in  a  clean  jug 
or  bottle ;  do  not  fill  the  vessel  contain- 
ing it,  and  leave  the  cork  loose  till  next 
morning.  Corked  tightly,  it  Jwill  keep 
ten  or  twelve  days  in  a  cool  place. 

1429.-MILK  YEAST. 

To  a  pint  of  new  milk  put  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  salt  or  a  large  spoonful  of  flour ; 
stir  well,  and  keep  it  lukewarm  by  the 
fire ;  in  .an  hour  it  will  be  fit  for  use. 
Twice  as  much  must  be  used  as  of  com- 
mon yeast;  and  the  bread  dries  soon; 
and  in  summer  this  method  is  conven- 
ient. 

Never  keep  yeast  in  a  tin  vessel.  If 
sour,  put  in  saleratus— a  teaspoonful  to 


a  pint  of  yeast,  when  ready  for  use.  If 
it  foams  up  lively,  it  will  raise  the  bread ; 
if  not,  throw  it  away. 

1430.— KICE  BKEAD. 

Boil  soft  a  pint  of  rice ;  when  cold, 
add  a  pint  of  leaven,  and  work  in  three 
quarts  of  flour.  It  -will  be  light  in  an 
hour  in  warm  weather.  Divide  the 
dough  into  three  loaves,  and  bake  in  but- 
tered tin  pans.  It  grows  dry  soon. 

1431.— YEAST  CAKES. 

Boil .  three  ounces  hops  in  six  quarts 
water,  down  to  two  quarts.  Strain  it, 
and  while  boiling  hot,  stir  in  wheat 
or  rye  meal  to  a  batter.  When  milk- 
warm,  add  half  a  pint  of  good  yeast,  and 
let  it  stand  till  very  light — about  three 
hours.  Then  work  in  sifted  Indian  meal 
till  it  is  stiff  dough.  Roll  out  and  cut 
it  in  cakes  three  inches  by  two,  half  an 
inch  thick.  Lay  these  cakes  on  a  smooth 
board,  floured ;  prick  them  with  a  fork, 
and  place  them  in  a  dry  store  room,  ex- 
posed to  sun  and  air.  Turn  them  every 
day.  They  will  be  dry  in  a  fortnight. 
When  dry,  put  them  into  a  coarse,  cot- 
ton bag,  and  hang  them  in  a  cool,  dry 
place.  They  will  keep  .a  year.  Two 
will  raise  a  peck  of  flour.  Break  them 
into  a  pint  of  milk-warm  water,  and  stir 
in  a  spoonful  of  flour  the  evening  before 
you  bake ;  then  set  it  in  a  moderately 
warm  place  till  morning. 

Bread  made  at  home  is  not  only  more 
palatable,  but  far  more  economical.  A 
stove  will  bake  with  little  expense  of 
fuel,  and  the  flour  used  for  a  family  will 
cost  one-third  less  than  bread  bought. 
You  are  sure  too,  that  good  flour  is  used, 
and  that  your  bread1  contains  no  alum, 
ammonia,  or  sulphate  of  zinc,  which  it' is 
said  bakers  put  in  to  make  their  bread 
light  and  white.  Baker's  bread  is  nearly 
tasteless,  dries  directly,  and  can  not  be 
as  nutritious  as  bread  bak^d  at  home. 

Ladies  keeping  house  in  the  city  ought 


BISCUITS. 


467 


to  make  their  own  bread  as  well  as  cake, 
or  at  least  superintend  the  process.  It 
requires  no  sacrifice  of  time,  and  is  a 
neat,  delicate,  and  ladylike  employment.. 
Three  things,  however,  are  requisite — 
yeast  just  lively  enoflgh,  dough  just 
light  enough,  and  an  oven  just  hot 
enough.  Practice  will  show  how  to  at- 
tain perfection  in  these  respects. 

1482.— BOTATO  BAEM. 

Boil  half  an  ounce  of  hops  in  four 
quarts  of  water,  and  leave  it  till  the  hops 
sink ;  then  strain  it  into  an  earthen  pot, 
and.  when  milk-warm,  add  three  table-' 
spoonfuls  of  sugar  and  half  a  pint  of  flour, 
leave  it  near  the  fire,  frequently  stirring 
it,  for  twenty-four  hours.  Then  add  four 
pounds  potatoes  pounded  and  pulped 
through  a  colander;  they  are  best  un- 
boiled. When  the  mixture  is  well  risen, 
half  a  pint  will  do  for  four  quarts  of 
flour.  The  bread  requires  much  knead- 
ing, and  should  be  left  eight  or  ten  hours 
to  rise.  A  few  spoonfuls  of  beer  barm 
are  an  improvement  to  the  stock,  which 
should  not  be  allowed  to  run  out,  as  a 
little  of  the  old  will  improve  a  new 
supply. 

Brick  ovens  are  the  best  for  baking  all 
kinds  of  bread,  large  cakes  and  pies  ;  the 
re'ason  of  which  is  chiefly  owing  to  their 
being  generally^  capable  of  retaining  the 
heat  a  much  longer  time  than  6ne  built 
of  iron. 

For  the  baking  of  pastry,  light  bread, 
rolls,  and  breakfast-cakes,  the  iron  ovens, 
fixed  in  the  usual  kitchen  ranges,  have 
the  advantage  of  requiring  but  little  fire, 
and  enabling  the  cook  to  regulate  its 
temperature. 

1483.— ALMOND  BEEAD. 

Blanch,  and  pound  in  a  mortar,  half  a 
pound  of  shelled  sweet  almonds  till  they 
are  a  smooth  paste,  adding  rose-water  as 
you  pound  them.  They  should  be  done 
the  day  before  they  are  wanted.  Pre- 


pare a  pound  of  loaf-sugar  finely  pow- 
dered, a  teaspoonful  of  mixed  spice,  mace, 
nutmeg  and  cinnamon,  and  three-quarters 
of  a  pound  of  sifted  flour.  Take  fourteen 
eggs,  and  separate  the  whites  from  the 
yolks.  Leave  out  seven  of  the  whites, 
and  beat  the  other  seven  to  a  stiff  froth. 
Beat  the  yolks  till  very  thick  and  smooth, 
and  then  beat  the  sugar  gradually  into 
them,  adding  the  spice.  Next  stir  in  the 
white  of  egg,  then  the  flour,  and  lastly 
the  almonds.  You  may  add  twelve  drops 
of  essence  of  lemon. 

Put  the  mixture  into  a  square  tin  pan, 
well  buttered,  or  into  a  copper  or  tin- 
turban  mould,  and  set  it  immediately  in 
a  brisk  oven.  Ice  it"  when  cool.  It  is 
best  when  eaten  fresh. 

You  may  add  a  few  bitter  almonds  to 
the  sweet  ones. 

1434.-DAMASCUS  BISCUITS. 

Take  the  whites  of  three  eggs  beaten 
to  a  froth,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  good 
beef  suet  chopped  very  fine,  and  half  an 
ounce  of  bitter  almonds  blanched,  chop- 
ped fine,  and  beaten  well  with  the  froth  of 
the  eggs.  Then  take  the  yolks  of  the 
eggs,  and  mix  with  six  ounces  of  sifted 
loaf  sugar,  beat  well,  pour  into  the  mix- 
ture of  almonds  and  whites  of  egg  ;  mix 
well,  and  shake  in  two  ounces  of  flour, 
with  sufficient  lemon  to  flavor  them. 
Pour  into  small  tins,  or  moulded  papers, 
and  bake  in  a  quick  oven. 

1435.— MILK  BISCUITS. 

A  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter,  one- 
quart  of  milk,  one  gill  of  yeast,  as  much 
flour  as  will  form  the  dough,  and  a  little 
salt.  Stir  flour  into  the  milk,  so  as  to 
form  a  very  thick  batter,  and  add  the 
yeast;  this  is  called  a  sponge.  This 
should  be  done  in  the  evening ;  in  the 
morning  cut  up  the  butter,  and  set  it 
near  the  fire,  where  it  will  dissolve,  but 
not  get  hot ;  pour  the  melted  butter  into 
the  spongej  then  stir  in  enough  flour  to 


468 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


form  a  dough,  knead  it  well  and  stand  it 
away  to  rise.  As  soon  as  it  is  perfectly 
light,  butter  your  tins,  make  out  the 
dough  in  small  cakes,  and  let  them  rise. 
When  they  are  light,  bake  them  in  a  very 
quick  oven,  and  send  them  to  the  table  hot. 

14S6.-EOLLS. 

French  Rolls  are  usually  made  by  the 
bakers,  but  in  country  houses,  where 
families  bake  their  own  bread,  they  may 
be  done  as  follows : — 

Sift  one  pound  of  flour,  and  rub  into  it 
two  ounces  of  butter  j  mix  in  the  whites 
only  of  three  eggs  beaten  to  a  froth,  and 
a  table-spoonful  of  strong  yeast  j  to  which 
add  enough  of  milk,  with  a  little  salt,  to 
make  a  stiff  dough,  and  set  it  covered  be- 
fore the  fire  to  rise — which  will  take 
about  an  hour ;  and,  if  cut  into  small 
rolls,  and  put  into  a  quick  oven,  will  be 
done  in  little  more  than  ten  minutes. 

1487.-KOCKS. 

Take  a  loaf  that  is  half  baked,  pull  it 
apart,  and  with  two  forks  tear  the  crumb 
into  bits  about  the  size  of  a  walnut ;  lay 
them  on  a  'tin,  and  return  them  to  the 
oven,  and  bake  of  a  light  brown.  A  loaf 
made  for  the  purpose  with  milk  and  a 
little  butter  makes  them  nicer.  A  sweet 
cake  pulled  in  this  *way  is  very  good. 

1488.— MUFFINS. 

Take  two  eggs,  two  spoonfuls  of  new 
yeast,  and  a  little  salt.  Mix  a  little 
warm  new  milk  and  water  into  a  quart 
of  flour.  Beat  all  well  together,  and  let 
it  stand  to  rise.  Bake  them  for  about 
twenty  minutes,  until  of  a  light  brown, 
either  on  a  hot  iron,  or  in  shallow  tin 
rings  in  a  Dutch  oven.  When  to  be 
brought  to  table,  toast  them  slightly  on 
both  sides,  but  not  in  the  middle :  then 
notch  them  round  the  centre,  and  pull 
them  open  with  your  fingers,  without 
using  a  knife,  and  butter  ihem. 


1439.— CEUMPETS. 

Beat  two  eggs  very  well,  put  to  them 
a  quart  of  warm  milk  and  water,  and  a 
large  spoonful  of  yeast ;  beat  in  as  much 
fine  flour  as  will  make  them  rather  thicker 
than  a  common  batter  pudding;  then 
make  the  stove  hot,  and  rub  it  with  a 
little  butter  wrapped  in  a  clean  linen 
cloth ;  pour  a  large  spoonful  of  the  batter 
upon  the  iron,  and  let  ^t  run  within  a 
ring  to  the  size  of  a  teasaucer ;  turn  them 
with  the  elastic  blade  of  an  old  table- 
knife,  and  when  you  want  to  use  them, 
toast  them  very  quickly,  but  not  too 
crisply,  and  butter  them. 

1440.— SALLY-LUNN. 

Into  one  pint  of  flour  rub  a  piece  of 
butter  the  size  of  a  walnut,  a  little  salt 
and  a  little  yeast.  Let  it  rise  half  an 
hour  before  the  fire.  Then  mix  it  with 
two  eggs,  and  if  not  enough  add  a  little 
milk ;  knead  the  dough  well  and  let  it 
stand  some  minutes  before  the  fire  ;  after 
which  make  this  quantity  into  five  cakes 
and  have  them  slack-baked,  as  they  must 
be  well  warmed  in  a  Dutch  oven  before 
being  toasted  for  table. 

1441.— BUCKWHEAT  CAKES. 

Mix  a  quart  of  buckwheat  flour  with 
a  pint  of  lukewarm  milk,  (water  will  do, 
but  is  not  as  good.)  and  a  teacup  of  yeast 
— set  it  in  a  warm  place  to  rise.  When 
light,  (which  will  be  in  the  course  of 
eight  or  ten  hours  if  family  yeast  is  used, 
if  brewer's  yeast  is  used  they  will  rise 
much  quicker,)  add  a  teaspoonful  of  salt 
— if  sour,  the  same  quantity  of  saleratus 
dissolved  in  a  little  milk,  and  strained. 
If  they  are  too  thick,  thin  them  with 
cold  milk  or  water.  Bake  them  with 
just  /at  enough  to  prevent  their  sticking 
to  the  griddle. 

1442.— EICE  CAKES. 

Boil  a  cupful  of  rice  until  it  becomes 


BREAKFAST   CAKES. 


469 


soft;  while  it  is  warm  mix  a  large 
lump  of  butter  with  it  and  a  little  salt. 
Add  as  much  milk  to  a  small  teacupful  of 
flour  and  a  little  corn  meal,  scalded,  as 
will  make  a  tolerably  stiff  batter — stir  it 
until  it  is  quite  smooth  and  then  mix  it 
with  the  rice.  Beat  five  eggs  as  light  as 
possible  and  add  them  to  the  rice. 

These  cakes  are  fried  on  a  griddle  as 
all  other  pancakes — they  must  be  care- 
fully turned. 

Serve  them  with  powdered  sugar  and 
nutmeg.  They  should  be  served  as  hot 
as  possible. 

1443. -FLANNEL  CAKES  AND  WAFFLES. 

Stir  into  two  pints  of  flour  as  much 
milk  as  will  make  a  light  batter.  Melt 
a  large  lump  of  butter  and  add  with  it  a 
little  salt.  Beat  together  five  eggs  and 
stir  them  into  the  batter. 

These  cakes  are  to  be  baked  on  a 
griddle.  Serve  them  with  powdered 
sugar. 

It  is  customary  to  mix  with  the  butter 
a  table-spoonful  of  yeast  and  leave  it  to 
rise  for  several  hours ;  but  this  is  un- 
necessary unless  you  wish  to  bake  the 
cakes  in  waffle  or  wafer  irons. 

1444.— EGG  BISCUIT. 

One  pound  of  flour ;  wet  nearly  all  of 
it  to  a  paste  with  the  whites  of  two  eggs, 
beat  and  roll  out  thin,  work  in  three- 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  butter,  placing 
bits  on  the  paste,  flouring,  folding,  and 
rolling  it  out  again  till  all  is  used.  Move 
the  rolling  pin  from  you  always.  Cut 
out  in  small  squares  or  with  a  tumbler, 
arid  bake  in  a  quick  oven. 

1445.— APPLE  BEEAD. 

A  very  light  pleasant  bread  is  made  in 
France  by  a  mixture  of  apples  and  flour, 
in  the  proportion  of  one  of  the  former 
to  two  of  the  latter.  The  usual  quantity 
of  yeast  is  employed  as  in  making  com- 
30 


|  mon  bread,  and  is  beat  with  flour  and 
j  warm  pulp  of  the  apples  after  they  have 
boiled,  and  the  dough  is  then  considered 
as  pet :  it  is  then  put  in  a  proper  vessel, 
and  allowed  to  rise  for  eight  or  twelve 
!  hours,  and  then  baked  in    long  loaves. 
Very  little  water  is  requisite ;  none,  ge- 
nerally, if  the  apples  are  very  fresh. 

1446.-JOHNNY  CAKES. 

Sift  a  quart  of  corn  meal  into  a  pan, 
make  a  hole  in  the  middle,  and  pour  in  a 
pint  of  warm  water.  Mix  the  meal  and 
water  gradually  into  a  batter,  adding  a 
teaspoouful  of  salt ;  beat  it  very  quickly, 
and  for  a  long  time,  till  it  becomes  quite 
light ;  then  spread  it  thick  and  even  on 
a  stout  piece  of  smooth  board ;  place  it 
upright  on  the  hearth  before  a  clear  fire, 
with  something  to  support  the  board  be- 
hind, and  bake  it  well;  cut  it  into 
squares,  and  split  and  butter  them  hot. 

Cakes  may  also  be  made  with  a  quart 
of  milk,  three  eggs,  one  teaspoonful  of 
carbonate  of  soda,  and  one  teacupful  of 
wheat-flour ;  add  Indian  meal  sufficient 
4;o  make  a  batter  like  that  of  pancakes, 
and  either  bake  it  in  buttered  pans,  or 
upon  a  griddle,  and  eat  them  with 
butter. 

1447.— INDIAN  GPJDDLE  (JAKES 

Are  made  with  one  pint  of  Indian  meal, 
four  table-spoonfuls  of  flour,  one  quart  of 
milk,  four  eggs,  and  salt  to  taste. 

1443.— TO  MAKE  EUSK. 

Take  a  piece  of  bread -dough  large 
enough  to  fill  a  quart  bowl,  one  teacup 
of  melted  butter,  one  egg,  one  teaspoon- 
ful of  saleratus  ;  knead  quite  hard,  roll 
out  thin,  lap  it  together,  roll  to  the  thick- 
ness of  a  thin  biscuit,  cut  out  with  a  bis- 
cuit mould,  and  set  it  to  rise  in  a  warm 
place.  From  twenty  'to  thirty  minutes 
will  generally  be  sufficient.  Bake  them 
and  dry  thoroughly  through,  and  you 


470 


THE   PRACTICAL    HOUSEKEEPER. 


will  have  an  excellent  rusk  to  eat  with 
your  coffee.  You  can  make  them  with 
hop  yeast,  and  sweeten  them,  too,  if  you 
please  ;  use  milk  with  yeast. 

1449.— BANNOCK  OE  INDIAN  MEAL 
'CAKES. 

Stir  to  a  cream  a  pound  and  a  quarter 
of  brown  sugar,  a  pound  of  butter — beat 
six  eggs,  and  mix  them  with  the  sugar 
and  butter — add  a  teaspoonful  of  cinna- 
mon or  ginger — stir  in  a  pound  and  three- 
quarters  of  white  Indian  meal,  and  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  wheat  flour,  (the 
meal  should  be  sifted.)  Bake  it  in  small 
cups,  and  let  it  remain  in  them  till  cold. 


Corn  Cake  Pan. 
1450.— EUSK. 

Melt  four  ounces  of  butter  in  half  a 
pint  of  new  milk ;  then  add  to  this  seven 
eggs,  well  beaten,  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of 
yeast,  and  three  ounces  of  sugar;  put 
this  mixture,  by  degrees,  into  as  much 
flour  as  will  make  an  extremely  light 
paste,  more  like  batter,  and  set  it  to  rise 
before  the  fire  for  half  an  hour ;  then 
add  more  flour  to  make  it  rather  stiffer, 
but  not  stiff.  Work  it  well,  and  divide 
it  into  small  loaves  or  cakes,  about  five 
or  six  inches  wide,  and  flatten  them. 
When  baked  and  cold,  slice  them  the 
thickness  of  rusks,  and  brown  them  a 
little  hi  the  oven. 


1451.— MUFFINS. 

Mix  a  quart  of  wheat  flour  smoothly 
with  a  pint  and  a  half  of  lukewarm  milk, 
half  a  teacup  of  yeast,  a  couple  of  beaten 
eggs,  a  heaping  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a 
couple  of  table-spoonfuls  of  lukewarm 
melted  butter.  Set  the  batter  in  a  warm 
place  to  rise.  When  light,  butter  your 


muffin-cups,  turn   in  the  mixture,  and 
bake  the  muffins  till  a  light  brown. 

1452.— SOFT  WAFFLES. 

Stir  into  a  quart  of  flour  sufficient 
lukewarm  milk  to  make  a  thick  batter. 
The  milk  should  be  stirred  in  gradually, 
so  as  to  have  it  free  from  lumps.  Put 
in  a  table-spoonful  of  melted  butter,  a 
couple  of  beaten  eggs,  a  teaspoonful  of 
salt,  and  half  a  teacup  of  yeast.  When 
risen,  fill  your  waffle-irons  with  the  batter 
— bake  them  on  a  bed  of  coals.  When 
they  have  been  on  the  fire  between  two 
and  three  minutes,  turn  the  waffle-irons 
over — when  brown  on  both  sides,  they 
are  sufficiently  baked.  The  waffle-irons 
should  be  well  greased  with  lard,  and 
very  hot,  before  each  one  is  put  in. 
The  waffles  should  be  buttered  as  soon  as 
cooked.  Serve  them  up  with  powder- 
ed white  sugar  and  cinnamon. 

For  Rice  Waffles. — Take  a  teacup  and 
a  half  of  boiled  rice — warm  it  with  a  pint 
of  milk,  mix  it  smooth,  then  take  it  from 
the  fire,  stir  in  a  pint  of  cold  milk,  and 
a  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Beat  four  eggs, 
and  stir  them  in,  together  with  sufficient 
flour  to  make  a  thick  batter. 

1453.— SHOET  CAKES. 

Dissolve  half  a  pound  of  fresh  butter 
in  as  much  milk  as  will  make  a  pound 
and  a  half  of  flour  into  a  paste,  roll  it 
out  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick,  and 
cut  it  into  large  round  cakes.  Do  them 
in  a  frying-pan,  and  serve  them  hot. 
They  are  eaten  with  butter. 

1454— WAFEE  CAKES. 

Wafer  cakes  are  an  excellent  tea  cake, 
and  they  do  not  take  long  to  make,  al- 
though a  little  practice  is  necessary  be- 
fore they  can  be  successfully  made. 

Beat  three  eggs  quite  light.  Wash  a 
little  less  than  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
butter,  to  extract  the  salt  from  it,  and 
mix  it  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 


BREAKFAST  CAKES. 


471 


lilfted  sugar — add  the  beaten  eggs,  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  rose-water,  and  as  much  sifted 
flour  as  will  make  a  thin  batter.  Stir 
the  batter  with  a  wooden  spoon  until  it 
is  perfectly  smooth  and  so  light  as  to 
break  when  it  falls  against  the  sides  of 
the  vessel.  Your  wafer-iron  should  be 
heated,  but  not  too  hot,  or  the  butter 
will  burn.  Grease  the  iron  with  butter 
tied  up  in  a  linen  rag,  twice  doubled. 
Fill  the  iron  with  the  batter  and  close  it. 
Place  it  in  the  fire  in  such  a  manner 
that  both  sides  will  heat  at  once ;  if  this 
cannot  be  done  turn  the  iron  frequently. 
The  batter  will  be  cooked  in  about  two 
minutes  if  properly  managed. 

You  may  sprinkle  the  wafer  with 
pounded  sugar  and  roll  it  over  a  smooth 
stick  made  for  the  purpose. 

Southern  biscuit  is  made  with  a  large 
spoonfnl  of  lard  to  a  pint  of  flour ;  add 
saltj  knead  the  dough,  and  beat  it  well. 

1455.— MILK  TOAST. 

Boil  a  pint  of  rich  milk,  and  then  take 
it  off  and  stir  into  it  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  fresh  butter,  mixed  with  a  small  table- 
spoonful  of  flour.  Then  let  it  again 
come  to  a  boil.  Have  ready  two  deep 
plates  with  half  a  dozen  slices  of  toast 
in  each.  Pour  the  milk  over  them  hot, 
and  keep  them  covered  till  they  go  to 
table.  Milk  toast  is  generally  eaten  at 
breakfast. 

The  warming  of  the  bread  gradually 
through,  on  both  sides,  is  a  very  great 
improvement  upon  the  quality  of  the 
toast. 

All  kinds  of  toast  must  be  done  the 
same  way ;  but  if  to  be  served  under  a 
bird,  eggs,  or  kidneys,  it  requires  to  be 
toasted  drier. 

Dry  toast  should  not  be  made  until 
quite  ready  to  serve ;  when  done,  place 
it  in  a  toast-rack,  or  upon  its  edges,  one 
piece  resting  against  another.  Any  kind 
of  toast  that  has  been  made  half  an  hour 
is  not  worth  eating. 


1456.— MILK  ROLLS. 

Have  a  convenient-sized  basin,  into 
which  put  half  a  pound  of  the  best  flour, 
making  a  hole  in  the  middle  ;  add  half 
an  ounce  of  yeast,  one  ounce  of  butter,  a 
teaspoonful  of  powdered  sugar,  and  half 
ditto  of  salt,  over  which  pour  three 
large  wineglassfuls  of  lukewarm  milk; 
mix  the  whole,  by  degrees,  with  your 
hand,  (using  a  little  more  flour,)  until 
forming  a  stiffish  paste ;  rub  off  the 
paste  which  adheres  to  your  fingers,  and 
form  the  whole  into  a  ball,  which  leave 
at  the  bottom  of  the  basin,  covered  over 
with  a  clean  cloth,  and  set  it  half  an  hour 
to  rise,  in  a  warmish  place,  after  which 
throw  a  little  flour  upon  a  dresser,  cut 
the  paste  into  pieces  the  size  of  eggs, 
mould  them  of  a  round,  oval,  or  any 
other  shape  you  may  fancy,  egg  over  with 
a  paste-brush,  and  place  them  upon  a 
baking-sheet,  or  upon  the  bottom  of  the 
oven  if  clean  and  not  too  hot;  bake 
quickly. 

Rolls  are  made  with  soda  and  cream 
of  tartar  ;  a  teaspoonful  of  the  first  to  two 
of  the  latter.  Or,  with  sour  cream  and 
soda,  instead  of  yeast. 

1457.— TOPS  AND  BOTTOMS. 

Make  a  dough  as  for  rusks,  but  using 
only  half  the  butter ;  have  a  deep-edged 
baking-sheet  well  buttered,  and  when 
the  dough  is  ready,  turn  it  on  to  a  dress- 
er, well  floured ;  divide  into  small  pieces 
the  size  of  walnuts,  which  mould  into 
round  balls,  and  place  close  together 
upon  the  baking-sheet;  put  them  in  a 
warm  place  to  rise,  and  bake  well  in  a 
moderate  oven.  When  cold,  divide  and 
cut  each  one  in  halves  (making  a  top  and 
bottom)  which  brown  in  the  oven. 

1458.— BUNS. 

Put  three  pounds  of  flour  in  an  earth- 
en pan,  make  a  hole  in  the  middle,  in 
which  put  some  yeast,  dissolved  in  three 


472 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


parts  of  a  pint  of  warm  water,  and  stir 
in  a  little  of  the  flour,  forming  a  thinnish 
batter ;  let  it  remain  in  a  warm  place 
nearly  an  hour,  until  well  fermented; 
then  add  half  a  pound  of  sugar,  a  few 
currants,  and  half  a  pound  of  butter, 
dissolved  in  nearly  a  pint  of  warm  milk ; 
mix  the  whola  well  together,  making  a 
soft  but  dry  dough ;  let  it  remain  in  a 
warm  place  until  it  rises  very  light,  then 
turn  it  out  of  the  pan  on  to  a  board ; 
work  it  well  with  the  hands,  shaking 
flour  over  lightly;  then  mould  it  into 
small  round  balls,  double  the  size  of  wal- 
nuts, which  place  upon  a  buttered  bak- 
ing-sheet, four  inches  apart ;  moisten  the 
tops  with  milk ;  put  them  in  a  warm 
place  to  rise  ;  not,  however,  permitting 
them  to  crack,  and  bake  them  in  a  hot 
oven. 

1459.— SOYEE'S  BEIOCHE  EOLLS. 
Put  four  pounds  of  flour  upon  a  dress- 
er, one  pound  of  which  put  on  one  side, 
make  a  hole  in  the  middle,  into  which 
pour  nearly  three  parts  of  a  pint  of  warm 
water,  in  which  you  have  dissolved  yeast ; 
mix  it  into  a  stiff  but  delicate  paste, 
which  roll  up  into  a  ball :  cut  an  incision 
across  it,  and  lay  it  in  a  basin  well  flour- 
ed, in  a  warm  place,  until  becoming  very 
light;  then  make  a  large  hole  in  the 
centre  of  the  three  pounds  of  flour,  into 
which  put  half  an  ounce  of  salt,  two 
pounds  of  fresh  butter,  half  a  gill  of 
water,  and  sixteen  eggs ;  mix  it  into  a 
softish  flexible  paste,  which  press  out 
flat,  lay  the  leaven  upon  it,  folding  it 
over  and  working  with  the  hands  until 
well  amalgamated;  flour  a  clean  cloth, 
fold  the  paste  in  it  and  let  it  remain  all 
night.  In  the  morning  mould  them  into 
small  rolls;  put  them  upon  a  baking- 
sheet,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven.  Un- 
less your  breakfast  party  be  very  large, 
half  the  above  quantity  will  be  suflScient. 
These  rolls  being  a  luxury,  I  make  them 
only  upon  very  especial  occasions. 


BUTTER. 

Mrs.  Hale  says:  "Always  to  make 
good  butter  or  cheese  shows  great  care 
and  excellent  judgment  in  the  farmer's 
wife.  "When  every  department  of  the 
dairy  is  kept  perfectly  neat,  there  is 
hardly  any  exhibition  of  woman's  indus- 
try more  likely  to  make  her  husband 
proud,  or  gratify  a  beholder  of  good  sense 
and  benevolence,  than  the  sight  of  a  neat 
dairy -room  filled  with  the  rich,  valuable 
productions  which  her  skill  has  fashion- 
ed from  the  milk  of  the  cow. 

"  The  secret  of  success  in  the  dairy  is 
strict  attention  and  scrupulous  neatness 
in  all  its  operations.  The  best  time  to 
make  butter  is  in  June,  when  the  pas- 
tures are  rich  with  clover,  and  Septem- 
ber, when  the  fall  feed  is  in  its* perfec- 
tion. July  and  August  are  the  months 
for  cheese ;  then  the  rich  new  milk  and 
cream  cheeses  are  made. 

"  To  insure  good  butter,  you  must  al- 
ways scald  your  pails,  &c.,  in  hot  water, 
and  then  heat  them  by  the  fire,  or  in 
the  hot  sun,  so  that  they  may  be  per- 
fectly sweet. 

"  Keep  your  cream  in  a  cool  place  in 
summer,  and  churn  twice  a  week. 

"  Work  out  all  the  luttermilJc.—This 
must  be  done,  or  the  butter  will  not 
keep  well ;  and  do  not  make  the  butter 
too  salt. 

"  Never  put  butter  in  a  pine  tub. 

"Pickle  for  Butter.— Allow  half  a 
pound  of  salt,  an  ounce  of  saltpetre,  and 
half  a  pound  of  sugar  to  three  quarts  of 
water;  dissolve  them  together;  scald 
and  skim  the  pickle ;  let  it  be  entirely 
cold,  and  then  pour  it  over  the  butter 

"Keep  your  chees*  in  a  dark,  cool 
room,  and  turn  and  rub  them  every  day. 
The  fat  fried  out  of  salt  pork,  is  the  best 
preservative  to  rub  on  cheese,  and  gives 
a  rich  color  and  smoothness  to  the  rind. 


BUTTEK. 


4Y3 


"  Kever  wash  your  cheese  shelves  ; 
but  always  wipe  them  clean  with  a  dry 
•  cloth,  when  you  turn  your  cheese. 

"  Do  not  heat  the  milk  too  hot  j  it 
should  never,  for  new  milk  cheese,  be 
more  than  blood- warm ;  be  sure  that 
your  rennet  is  good,  and  do  not  use  more 
than  it  requires  to  bring  the  curd. 

"  Cover  the  pan  or  tub  in  which  milk 
is  set  to  coagulate,  and  do  not  disturb  it 
for  half  an  hour  or  more. 

"  Cut  the  curd,  when  fully  formed, 
carefully  with  a  knife ;  never  break  it 
with  your  hand ;  and  be  very  particular, 
when  draining  it  from  the  whey,  not  to 
squeeze  or  handle  the  curd  j  if  you  make 
the  white  whey  run  from  the  curd,  you 
lose  much  of  the  richness  of  the  cheese." 

1460.— TO    CUEE    BUTTEK     IN    THE    BEST 
MANNEK. 

The  following  receipt  is  from  "  The 
Housewife's  Manual,"  a  work  said  to 
have  been  prepared  by  Sir  Walter 
Scott. 

Having  washed  and  beaten  the  butter 
free  of  buttermilk,  work  it  quickly  up, 
allowing  a  scanty  half  ounce  of  fine  salt 
to  the  pound.  Let  the  butter  lie  for 
twenty -four  hours,  or  more ;  then,  for 
every  pound,  allow  a  half  ounce  of  the 
following  mixture: — Take  four  ounces 
of  salt,  two  of  loaf  sugar,  and  a  quarter 
of  an  ounce  of  saltpetre.  Beat  them  all 
well  together,  and  work  the  mixture 
thoroughly  into  the  butter ;  then  pack  it 
down  in  jars  or  tubs.  Instead  of  strew- 
ing a  layer  of  salt  on  the  top  of  the  but- 
ter, which  makes  the  first  slice  unfit  for 
use,  place  a  layer  of  the  above  mixture 
in  folds  of  thin  muslin,  stitch  it  loosely, 
and  lay  this  neatly  over  the  top,  which 
will  effectually  preserve  it. 

To  freshen  salt  butter. — Churn  it  anew 
in  sweet  milk,  a  quart  to  the  pound.  The 
butter  will  gain  in  weight. 

To  improve  rancid  butter. — Wash  it, 


melt  it  gradually,  skim  it,  and  put  to  it 
a  slice  of  charred  or  hard  toasted  bread, 
or  some  bits  of  charcoal. 

1461.— TO  MAKE  BUTTER. 

The  milk  pans  should  be  scalded 
every  day.  After  the  milk  has  stood 
twenty-four  hours  skim  off  the  cream, 
and  deposit  it  in  a  large  earthen  jar 
kept  closely  covered.  Stir  up  the  cream 
with  a  stick  every  day  to  prevent  the 
skin  from  gathering.  Butter  of  only 
two  or  three  days  is  best.  Strain  the 
cream  from  the  jar  into  the  churn  and 
put  on  the  lid.  In  warm  weather  move 
the  handle  slowly,  or  the  butter  will  be 
too  soft.  When  the  handle  moves  with 
great  difficulty  the  butter  has  come. 
Take  it  out  with  a  wooden  ladle  and 
squeeze  out  the  remains  of  milk.  Add  a 
little  salt  and  work  it  well.  Set  it  in  a 
cool  place  for  three  hours,  then  work  it 
again.  Wash  it  in  cold  water,  and  put  it 
away  for  use. 

1462.— BUTTEE— TO  CLAEIFT. 

Scrape  off  the  outsides  of  the  butter 
you  may  require,  and  then  put  it  into  a 
stewpan  by  the  side  of  a  slow  fire,  where 
it  must  remain  till  the  scum  rises  to  the 
top  and  the  milk  settles  at  the  bottom ; 
carefully  with  a  spoon  take  off  the  scum  j 
when  clear,  it  is  fit  for  use. 

To  preserve  it  for  winter,  take  two 
parts  of  the  best  common  salt,  one  part 
of  good  loaf  sugar,  and  one  part  salt- 
petre, beat  them  well  together ;  to  sixteen 
ounces  of  butter  thoroughly  cleansed 
from  the  milk  put  one  ounce  of  the  above 
composition}  work  it  well,  and  put  it  into 
pots  when  quite  firm  and  cold. 


CAKES,  &o. 

In  making  cakes  it  is  indispensably 
necessary  that  all  the  ingredients  should  be 
heated  before  they  are  mixed  together, 


474 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


for  which  purpose  every  thing  should  be 
prepared  for  an  hour  or  two  previously 
to  their  being  -wanted,  and  placed  near 
the  fire  or  upon  a  stove — the  flour 
thoroughly  dried  and  warmed  ;  the  cur- 
rants, sugar,  carraway-seed,  and  any  thing 
else  required,  heated  in  the  same  way ; 
butter  and  eggs  should  be  beaten  in 
basins  fitted  into  kettles  or  pans  of  warm 
water,  which  will  give  them  the  requisite 
degree  of  temperature.  Without  these 
precautions  cakes  will  be  heavy,  and  the 
best  materials,  with  the  greatest  pains, 
will  fail  to  produce  the  desired  results. 

Currants  should  be  very  nicely  wash- 
ed, dried  in  a  cloth,  and  then  set  before 
the  fire.  If  damp,  they  will  make  cakes 
or  puddings  heavy.  Before  they  are  to 
be  used,  a  dust  of  dry  flour  should  be 
thrown  among  them,  and  a  shake  given 
to  them,  which  causes  the  cakes  to  be 
lighter. 

Eggs  should  be  very  long  beaten, 
whites  and  yolks  apart,  and  always 
strained. 

Sugar  should  be  pounded  in  a  mortar, 
or  rubbed  to  a  powder  on  a  clean  board, 
and  sifted  through  a  very  fine  hair  or 
lawn  sieve. 

Lemon-peel  should  be  grated  or  pared 
very  thin,  and,  with  a  little  sugar,  beaten 
in  a  marble  mortar  to  a  paste  ;  and  then 
mixed  with  a  little  wine  or  cream,  so  as 
to  divide  easily  among  the  other  ingre- 
dients. The  pans  should  be  of  earthen- 
ware ;  nor  should  eggs  or  batter  and 
sugar  be  beaten  in  tins,  as  the  coldness 
of  the  metal  will  prevent  them  from  be- 
coming light. 

Use  no  flour  but  the  best  superfine ; 
for  if  the  flour  be  of  inferior  quality  the 
cakes  will  be  heavy,  ill-colored,  and  unfit 
to  eat;  but  if  a  little  potato-flour  be 
added,  it  will  improve  their  lightness. 
Cakes  are  frequently  rendered  hard, 
heavy,  and  uneatable,  by  misplaced 
economy  in  eggs  and  butter,  or  for  want 
of  a  due  seasoning  in  spice  and  sugar. 


After  all  the  articles  are  put  into  the 
pan,  they  should  be  thoroughly  and  long 
beaten,  as  the  lightness  of  the  cake  de- 
pends much  on  their  being  well  in- 
corporated. 

Accuracy  in  proportioning  the  ingre- 
dients is  also  indispensable ;  and  there- 
fore scales,  weights,  and  measures,  down 
to  the  smallest  quantity,  are  of  the  ut- 
most importance. 


Iron  ovens  are  desirable,  as  well  for 
their  economy  of  fuel  as  for  the  short 
time  in  which  they  can  be  heated,  and  on 
account  of  the  celerity  and  convenience 
with  which  one  person  may  prepare  large 
quantities  of  small  pastry,  and  bake  it 
also. 

The  most  vigilant  care  and  attention 
are  necessary  in  order  to  secure  success 
in  the  baking  of  delicate  pastry  or  cakes  ; 
for  however  well  they  may  have  been  pre- 
pared, if  not  equally  well  baked,  the  re- 
sult will  be  unsatisfactory. 

If  the  oven  be  not  lighted  long  enough 
to  have  a  body  of  heat,  or  if  it  is  become 
slack,  the  cake  will  be  heavy.  If  not 
pretty  quick,  the  batter  will  not  rise. 


PLUM   CAKE. 


475 


Should  you  fear  its  being  too  quick,  put 
some  paper  over  the  cake  to  prevent  its 
being  burnt.  To  know  when  it  is  soaked, 
take  a  broad-bladed  knife  that  is  very 
bright,  and  plunge  it  into  the  very  centre, 
draw  it  instantly  out,  and  if  the  least 
stickiness  adheres,  put  the  cake  imme- 
diately in  again,  and  shut  up  the  oven. 

If  the  heat  should  be  sufficient  to 
raise,  but  not  to  soak  it,  let  fresh  fuel  be 
quickly  put  in,  and  the  cakes  kept  hot 
until  the  oven  is  fit  to  finish  the  soak- 
ing. 

Bread  and.  cakes  mixed  with  milk  .eat 
best  when  new,  but  become  stale  sooner 
than  others. 

Cakes  kept  in  drawers  or  wooden 
boxes  have  a  disagreeable1  taste.  Earthen 
pans  and  covers,  or  tin  boxes,  preserve 
them  best ;  but  in  making  large  cakes  of 
any  kind,  which  are  to  be  baked  in  hoops, 
use  those  of  wood.  Cakes  made  with 
yeast  should  always  be  eaten  fresh. 

1463.— PLUM  CAKE  (English). 

Mix  thoroughly  two  quarts  of  fine 
flour,  well  dried,  with  one  pound  of  dry 
and  sifted  loaf-sugar,  three  pounds  of 
currants  washed  and  very  dry,  half  a 
pound  of  raisins  stoned  and  chopped, 
one-quarter  of  an  ounce  each  of  mace, 
cloves,  and  cinnamon,  a  grated  nutmeg, 
the  peel  of  a  lemon  cut  as  fine  as  possible, 
and  half  a  pound  of  almonds,  blanched 
and  beaten  with  orange-flower  water. 
Melt  two  pounds  of  butter  in  one  and  a 
quarter  pint  of  cream,  but  not  hot ;  put 
to  it  one  pint  of  sweet  wine,  a  glass  of 
brandy  and  another  of  rose-water,  with 
the  whites  and  yolks  of  twelve  eggs 
beaten  apart,  and  half  a  pint  of  good 
yeast.  Strain  this  liquor  by  degrees  into 
the  dry  ingredients,  beating  them  to- 
gether a  full  hour ;  then  butter  the  hoop 
or  pan,  and  bake  it  in  a  moderate  oven 
<br  at  least  four  hours.  As  you  put  in 
the  batter,  throw  in  plenty  of  citron, 
lemon,  and  orange  candy. 


If  you  ice  the  cake,  when  it  is  nearly 
cold  pour  the  icing  over,  and  return  it 
to  the  oven,  where  it  should  be  left  all 
night,  or  until  it  becomes  cold ;  but  if 
the  oven  be  warm,  keep  it  near  the  mouth, 
and  the  door  open,  lest  the  color  be  spoil- 
ed ;  or  the  icing  may  be  left  until  the 
next  morning. 

1464.— PLUM    NEW    ENGLAND     WEDDING 
CAKE. 

One  pound  of  dr/  flour,  one  pound  of 
sweet  butter,  one  pound  of  sugar,  twelve 
eggs,  two  pounds  of  raisins,  (the  sultana 
raisins  are  the  best,)  two  pounds  of  cur- 
rants, as  much  spice  as  you  please.  A 
glass  of  wine,  one  of  brandy,  and  a  pound 
of  citron.  Mix  the  butter  and  sugar  as 
for  pound  cake.  Sift  the  spice,  and  beat 
the  eggs  very  light.  Put  in  the  fruit  last, 
stirring  it  in  gradually.  It  should  be  well 
floured.  If  necessary  add  more  flour 
after  the  fruit  is  in.  Butter  sheets  of 
paper,  and  line  the  inside  of  one  large 
pan,  or  two  smaller  ones.  Lay  in  some 
slices  of  citron,  then  a  layer  of  the  mix- 
ture, then  of  the  citron,  and  so  on  till  the 
pan  is  full.  This  cake  requires  a  toler- 
ably hot  and  steady  oven,  and  will  need 
baking  four  or  five  hours,  according  to 
its  thickness.  It  will  be  better  to  let  it 
cool  gradually  in  the  oven.  Ice  it  when 
thoroughly  cold. 

1465.-FKOSTING  CAKES. 

Allow  for  the  white  of  one  egg  nine 
heaping  teaspoonfuls  of  double-refined 
sugar,  and  one  of  nice  starch.  The 
sugar  and  starch  should  be  pounded 
and  sifted  through  a  very  fine  sieve. 
Beat  the  whites  of  eggs  to  a  stiff"  froth, 
so  that  you  can  turn  the  plate  upside 
down,  without  the  eggs  falling  from  it — 
then  stir  in  the  sugar  gradually  with 
a  wooden  spoon — stir  it  ten  or  fifteen 
minutes  without  any  cessation — then  add 
a  teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice,  (vinegar 
will  answer,  but  is  not  as  nice,) — put  ia 


476 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


sufficient  rose-water  to  flavor  it.  If  you 
wish  to  color  it  pink,  stir  in  a  few  grains 
of  cochineal  powder,  or  rose  pink  ;  if  you 
wish  to  have  it  of  a  blue  tinge,  add  a 
little  of  what  is  called  powder  blue.  Lay 
the  frosting  on  the  cake  with  a  knife, 
soon  after  it  is  taken  from  the  oven — 
smooth  it  over,  and  let  it  remain  in  a  cool 
place  till  hard.  To  frost  a  common-sized 
loaf  of  cake,  allow  the  white  of  one  egg, 
and  half  of  another. 

1466.— SMALL  PLUM  CAKE. 

One  pound  and  a  half  of  raisins,  one 
pound  and  a  half  of  currants,  half  a  pound 
of  butter,  half  a  pound  of  flour,  five  eggs, 
half  a  teacup  of  molasses,  half  a  pound  of 
sugar,  half  a  pound  of  citron,  one  gill  of 
brandy,  spice  to  taste,  three  nutmegs. 


Cake  Monld,  with  Cylinder. 

1467.— GEEMAN  SUGAR  CAKES. 

Blend  well  with  the  fingers  six  ounces 
of  good  butter,  with  a  pound  of  fine 
flour,  working  it  quite  into  crumbs ;  add 
a  few  grains  of  salt,  one  pound  of  dry 
sifted  sugar,  a  table-spoonful  of  the  best 
cinnamon  hi  very  fine  powder,  and  a 
large  teaspoonful  of  spices  :  to  these  the 
grated  rinds  of  three  sound  fresh  lemons 
can  be  added,  or  riot,  at  pleasure.  Make 
these  ingredients  into  a  paste,  with  the 
yolks  of  five  eggs,  and  about  four  table- 
spoonfuls  of  white  wine,  or  with  one  or 
two  more  in  addition,  if  required,  as  this 
must  be  regulated  by  the  size  of  the 
eggs  :  half  of  very  thick  cream  and  half 
of  wine  are  sometimes  used  for  them. 
Roll  the  mixture  into  balls,  flatten  them 
to  something  less  than  three-quarters  of 
an  inch  thick,  and  bake  them  in  a  mod- 


erate oven  from  fifteen  to  twenty  min- 
utes. Loosen  them  from  the  baking- 
sheets — which  should  be  lightly  floured 
before  they  are  laid  on — by  passing  a 
knife  under  them,  turn  them  over,  and 
when  they  are  quite  cold,  stow  them  in 
a  dry,  close-shutting  canister.  The  Ger- 
mans make  three  incisions  on  the  top  of 
each  cake  with  the  point  of  a  knife,  and 
lay  spikes  of  split  almonds  in  them. 

1468.— BEIDE  CAKE. 

Wash  two  pounds  and  a  half  of  .fresh 
butter  in  plain  water  first,  and  then  in 
rose-water  ;  beat  the  butter  to  a  cream ; 
beat  twenty  eggs,  yolks  and  whites  sep- 
arately, half  an  hour  each,  Have  ready 
two  pounds  and  a  half  of  the  finest  flour, 
well  dried  and  kept  hot,  likewise  one 
pound  and  a  half  of  sugar  pounded  and 
sifted,  one  ounce  of  spice  in  fine  powder, 
three  pounds  of  currants  nicely  cleaned 
and  dry,  half  a  pound  of  almonds  blanch- 
ed, and  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of 
sweetmeats  cut,  not  too  thin.  Let  all  be 
kept  by  the  fire,  mix  all  the  dry  ingre- 
dients, pour  the  eggs  strained  to  the 
butter,  but  beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs 
to  a  strong  froth ;  mix  half  a  pint  of 
sweet  wine  with  the  same  quantity  of 
brandy,  pour  it  to  the  butter  and  eggs, 
mix  well,  then  have  all  the  dry  things 
put  in  by  degrees;  beat  them  very 
thoroughly — you  can  hardly  do  it  too 
much.  Having  half  a  pound  of  stoned 
jar-raisins  chopped  as  fine  as  possible, 
mix  them  carefully,  so  that  there  should 
be  no  lump,  and  add  a  teacupful  of 
orange-flower  water ;  beat  the  ingredients 
together  a  full  hour  at  least.  Have  a 
hoop  well  buttered ;  take  a  white  paper, 
doubled  and  buttered,  and  put  in  the  pan 
round  the  edge-;  do  not  fill  it  more  than 
three  parts  with  batter,  as  space  should 
3e  allowed  for  rising.  Bake  in  a  quick 
oven.  It  will  require  full  three  hours, 
[n  making  cakes  of  a  larger  size,  put  at 
:he  rate  of  eight  eggs  to  every  pound  of 


CAKE. 


477 


flour,  and  other  ingredients  in  the  same 
proportion. 

The  cake  must  be  covered  with  an 
icing. 

1469.— QUEEN  CAKE. 

Mix  one  pound  of  dried  flour,  the  same 
of  sifted  sugar  and  of  washed  currants. 
"Wash  one  pound  of  butter  in  rose-water, 
beat  it  well,  then  mix  with  it  eight  eggs, 
yolks  and  whites  beaten  separately,  and 
put  in  the  dry  ingredients  by  degrees ; 
beat  the  whole  an  hour ;  butter  little  tins, 
teacups,  or  saucers^  filling  them  only  half 
full.  Sift  a  little  fine  sugar  over  just  as 
you  put  them  into  the  oven. 

1470.— PLAIN  FKUIT  CAKE. 

One  loaf  of  bread,  half  a  cup  of  butter, 
and  half  a  cupful  of  sugar,  half  do.  of 
molasses,  half  do.  of  buttermilk,  half  do. 
of  currants,  one  do.  of  raisins,  half  do. 
citron,  three  eggs,  one  teaspoonful  salera- 
tus.  Season  to  taste ;  brandy  if  you 
choose. 

1471.  -ALMOND  CAKE. 

Blanch  half  a  pound  of  sweet,  and 
three  ounces  of  bitter  almonds — pound 
them  to  a  paste  in  a  mortar  with  orange- 
flower  water — add  half  a  pound  of  sifted 
loaf  sugar,  and  a  little  brandy — whisk 
separately,  for  half  an  hour,  the  whites 
and  yolks  of  twenty  eggs,  and  the  yolks 
to  the  almonds  and  sugar,  and  then  stir 
in  the  whites,  and  beat  them  all  well  to- 
gether. Butter  a  tin  pan,  sift  bread- 
raspings  over  it,  put  the  cake  into  it, 
over  the  top  of  which  strew  sifted  loaf- 
sugar.  Bake  it  in  a  quick  oven  for  half 
or  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 

1472.— HONEY  CAKE. 

One  pound  and  a  half  of  dried  and 
sifted  flour,  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of 
honey,  half  a  pound  of  finely  pounded 
loaf  sugar,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  citron. 


and  half  an  ounce  of  orange-peel  cut 
small ;  of  pounded  ginger  and  cinnamon 
three-quarters  of  an  ounce.  Melt  the 
sugar  with  the  honey,  and  mix  in  the 
other  ingredients ;  roll  out  the  paste, 
and  cut  it  into  small  cakes  of  any  form. 

1473.— COCOA-NUT  CAKES. 

Take  equal  weights  of  grated  cocoa- 
nut  and  powdered  white  sugar,  (the 
brown  part  of  the  cocoa-nut  should  be 
cut  off  before  grating  it,) — add  the  whites 
of  eggs  beaten  to  a  stiff  froth  in  the 
proportion  of  half  a  dozen  to  a  pound 
each  of  cocoa-nut  and  sugar.  There 
should  be  just  eggs  enough  to  wet  up 
the  whole  stiff.  Drop  the  mixture  on 
buttered  plates,  in  parcels  of  the  size 
of  a  cent,  several  inches  apart.  Bake 
them  immediately  in  a  moderately  warm 
oven. 

1474— SAVOY  CAKES. 

Beat  eight  eggs  to  a  froth — the  whites 
and  yolks  should  be  beaten  separately, 
then  mixed  together,  and  a  pound  of 
powdered  white  sugar  stirred  in  gradu- 
ally. Beat  the  'whole  well  together,  for 
eight  or  ten  minutes,  then  add  the  grated 
rind  of  a  fresh  lemon,  and  half  the  juice, 
a  pound  of  sifted  flour,  a  couple  of  table- 
spoonfuls  of  coriander  seed.  Drop  this 
mixture  by  the  large  spoonful  on  but- 
tered baking  plates,  several  inches  apart, 
sift  white  sugar  over  them,  and  bake 
them  immediately  in  a  quick  oven. 

1475.— SPONGE  CAKE. 

Take  the  weight  of  ten  eggs  in  pow- 
dered loaf  sugar,  beat  it  to  a  froth  with 
the  yolks  of  twelve  eggs,  put  in  the 
grated  rind  of  a  fresh  lemon,  leaving  out 
the  white  part — add  half  the  juice.  Beat 
the  whites  of  twelve  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth, 
and  mix  them  with  the  sugar  and  butter. 
Stir  the  whole  without  any  cessation  for 
fifteen  minutes,  then  stir  in  gradually 


478 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


the  weight  of  six  eggs  in  sifted  flour. 
As  soon  as  the  flour  is  well  mixed  in. 
turn  the  cake  into  pans  lined  with  but- 
tered paper — bake  it  immediately  is  a 
quick,  but  not  a  furiously  hot  oven.  It 
will  bake  in  the  course  of  twenty  minutes. 
If  it  bakes  too  fast,  cover  it  with  thick 
paper. 

1476.— POUND  CAKE. 

Mix  a  pound  of  sugar  with  a  pound  of 
butter.  When  worked  white,  stir  in  the 
yolk  of  eight  eggs,  beaten  to  a  froth,  then 
the  whites.  Add  a  pound  of  sifted  flour, 
and  mace  or  nutmeg  to  the  taste.  If 
you  wish  to  have  your  cake  particularly 
nice,  stir  in,  just  before  you  put  it  into 
the  pans,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  citron, 
or  almonds  blanched  and  powdered  fine 
in  rose-water,  and  a  glass  of  brandy. 

147T.-JUMBLE3. 

Stir  together,  till  of  a  light  color,  a 
pound  of  sugar  and  half  the  weight  of 
butter — then  add  eight  eggs,  beaten  to  a 
froth,  essence  of  lemon,  or  rose-water,  to 
the  taste,  and  flour  to  make  them  suffi- 
ciently stiff  to  roll  out.  Roll  them  out 
in  powdered  sugar,  about  half  an  inch 
thick,  cut  it  into  strips  about  half  an 
inch  wide,  and  four  inches  long,  join  the 
ends  together,  so  as  to  form  rings,  lay 
them  on  flat  tins  that  have  been  buttered 
and  bake  them  in  a  quick  oven. 

1478.— NEW- YEAE'S  COOKIES. 

Weigh  out  a  pound  of  sugar,  three- 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  butter — stir  them 
to  a  cream,  then  add  three  beaten  eggs, 
a  grated  nutmeg,  two  table-spoonfuls  of 
caraway  seed,  and  a  pint  of  flour.  Dis- 
solve a  teaspoonful  of  saleratus  in  a  tea- 
cup of  milk,  strain  and  mix  it  with  half 
a  teacup  of  cider,  and  stir  it  into  the 
cookies— then  add  flour  to  make  them 
sufficiently  stiff  to  roll  out.  Bake  them 
as  soon  as  cut  into  cakes,  in  a  quick  oven, 
till  a  light  brown, 


1479.— NEW  TOEK  CUP  CAKE. 
One  cup  butter,  two  of  sugar,  three  of 
flour,  one  of  milk  or  cream ;  four  eggs, 
a  wine-glass  of  brandy — a  nutmeg  grated, 
a  teaspoonful  of  soda,  two  of  cream  of 
tartar.     Dissolve  the  soda  in  the  milk 
rub  the  cream  of  tartar  dry  in  the  flour. 

1480.— WASHINGTON  CAKE. 

One  and  three-quarter  pounds  flour, 
one  and  a  quarter  sugar,  three-quarters 
of  a  pound  of  butter,  four  eggs,  two  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  cream  of  tartar,  one  of 
soda,  half  a  pint  of  milk,  two  pounds 
raisins,  two  glasses  of  brandy,  one  nut- 
meg, spice  to  taste. 

1481.— GINGEE  WAFEES. 

Three  cups  sugar,  two  of  butter,  one 
of  milk,  three  table-spoonfuls  of  ginger, 
two  teaspoonfuls  of  soda  in  the  milk ; 
flour  enough^  to  make  it  a  dough.  Roll 
it  very  thin,  and  bake  in  cakes. 

1482.— INDIAN  CORN  CAKE. 

One  pint  of  milk,  half  a  pound  In- 
dian-meal, two  eggs ;  two  ounces  butter, 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  soda,  a  whole  one 
of  salt.  Bake  three-quarters  of  an  hour. 

1483.— SOYEE'S  ST.  JAMES'S  CAKE. 

Put  one  pound  of  very  fresh  butter  in 
a  good-sized  kitchen  basin,  and  with  the 
right  hand  work  it  up  well  till  it  forms 
quite  a  white  cream ;  then  add  one 
pound  powdered  sugar,  mix  well,  add 
ten  eggs  by  degrees ;  put  to  dry  a  pound 
and  a  quarter  of  flour,  which  mix  as 
lightly  as  possible  with  it ;  blanch  and 
cut  in  slices  two  ounces  of  pistachios, 
two  ditto  of  green  preserved  angelica, 
add  two  liquor  glasses  of  noyeau,  two 
drops  of  essence  of  vanilla  ;  whip  a  gill 
and  a  half  of  cream  till  very  thick,  mix 
lightly  with  a  wooden  spoon,  have  a  mould, 
put  ic  in,  and  send  to  the  baker;  it  will 


CAKE. 


479 


take  about  one  hour  and  a  quarter  to 
bake. 

1484— SOYEE'S  TUEBAN  OF  ALMOND 
CAKE  ICED. 

This  is  a  very  good  and  useful  second 
course  remove.  Make  half  a  pound  of 
puff  paste,  give  it  nine  rolls,  rolling  it 
the  last  time  to  the  thickness  of  a  penny- 
piece,  have  ready  blanched  and  chopped 
a  pound  of  sweet  almonds,  which  put  in 
a  basin  with  half  a  pound  of  powdered 
sugar  and  the  whites  of  two  eggs,  or 
little  more  if  required ;  spread  it  over 
the  paste  the  thickness  of  a  shilling,  and 
with  a  knife  cut  the  paste  into  pieces 
two  inches  and  a  half  in  length  and 
nearly  one  in  breadth,  place  them  upon 
a  baking-sheet,  and  bake  nicely  a  very 
light  brown  color,  in  a  moderate  oven ; 
dress  them  on  a  stiff  border  of  any  kind 
of  stiff  jam  or  marmalade,  so  as  to  form 
a  large  crown,  according  to  the  size  you 
require  it ;  then  fill  the  interior  with  va- 
nilla cream,  or  any  other,  iced,  but  not 
too  hard,  and  bring  it  up  to  a  point ;  the 
cake  may  be  cut  into  any  shape  you 
fancy,  but  never  make  them  too  large. 

1485.— CIDEE  CAKE. 

Cider  cake  is  very  good,  to  be  baked 
in  small  loaves.  One  pound  and  a  half 
of  flour,  half  a  pound  of  sugar,  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  butter,  half  a  pint  of  cider, 
one  teaspoonful  of  pearlash;  spice  to 
your  taste.  Bake  till  it  turns  easily  in 
the  pans.  I  should  think  about  half  an 
hour. 

I486.— THE  HOUSEWIFE'S  CHEISTMAS 
CAKE. 

Take  two  pounds  of  pounded  sugar- 
candy,  two  pounds  of  flour,  two  pounds 
of  butter,  thirty-six  eggs,  four  pounds  of 
currants,  a  pound  of  raisins  stoned  and 
chopped,  half  a  pound  of  almonds  blanch- 
ed and  chopped,  half  a  pound  of  citron, 
a  pound  of  candied  orange-peel,  the  same 


of  candied  lemon-peel,  a  large  nutmeg- 
pounded,  half  an  ounce  of  powdered  all- 
spice, half  an  ounce  of  powdered  mace, 
ginger,  cinnamon,  and  coriander,  and  half 
a  pint  of  brandy. 

All  the  ingredients  should  be  well 
dried,  the  white  of  the  eggs  well  beaten 
up  separately  from  the  yolks,  the  butter 
stirred  and  beaten  almost  to  a  cream ; 
then  add  the  rest  gradually,  taking  care 
they  are  well  beaten  and  mixed.  Have 
ready  a  large  tin,  well  lined  with  butter- 
ed paper,  pour  in  the  cake,  and  bake  in 
a  slow  oven  for  at  least  four  hours. 
Smaller  proportions  may  be  adopted. 

1487.— COENSTAECH  CAKE. 

Half  a  pound  of  sugar,  four  ounces  of 
butter,  five  eggs,  one  teaspoonful  cream 
of  tartar,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  soda, 
half  a  pound  of  cornstarch.  half  a  gill  of 
sweet  milk. 

1488.— SHOET  CAKE. 

Three  pounds  of  flour,  half  a  pound  of 
butter,  half  a  pound  of  lard,  a  teaspoon- 
ful of  soda,  two  of  cream  of  tartar  j  mix 
with  cold  milk. 

For  Strawberry  Cake,  open  these  when 
first  baked,  take  out  some  of  the  crumb, 
and  fill  the  inside  with  ripe  strawberries, 
sugared ;  close  and  bake  the  cakes  five 
minutes  longer. 

1489.-SUGAE  CAKE. 

Three  pints  of  flour,  a  table-spoonful 
of  butter,  half  a  pound  of  sugar,  one 
egg,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  soda,  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  cream  of  tartar,  milk  enough 
to  make  a  dough,  roll  it  thin  and  cut  in 
squares. 

1490.— EAILEOAD  CAKE. 

A  pint  of  flour,  thre.e  eggs,  a  teaspoon- 
ful of  cream  of  tartar,  half  a  teaspoon- 
ful of  soda,  a  table-spoonful  of  butter,  a 
teaspoonful  of  sugar ;  bake  the  batter  in 
a  square  pan  twenty  minutes. 


480 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


1491.— JELLY  CAKE. 


Bake  sponge  cake  or  cup  cake  in  cir- 
cular pans,  half  an  inch  thick;  when 
cold,  put  pulp  of  fruit  or  marmalade  be- 
tween them ;  six  or  eight  layers  of  each. 

1492.-- LADY  CAKE. 

One  pound  of  flour,  one  of  loaf  sugar, 
half  one  of  butter,  the  whites  of  twelve 
eggs,  almonds  pounded,  rose-water. 

1493.-CHOCOLATE  CAKE. 

Grate  chocolate ;  add  whites  of  six 
eggs  and  loaf  sugar ;  drop  it  on  buttered 
paper,  and  bake  as  macaroons. 

1494— NOURMAHAL  CAKE. 
Cut  four  slices  of  sponge  cake  about 
an  inch  thick  and  of  an  oval  shape,  but 
each  slice  smaller  than  the  others. 
Spread  a  thick  layer  of  apricot  jam  upon 
the  first  and  largest  slice,  and  then  lay 
the  next  sized  slice  upon  it ;  spread  the 
second  slice  with  apple  marmalade,  and 
cover  with  the  third  size,  which  is  to  be 
spread  in  like  manner  with  strawberry 
jam,  and  covered  with  the  smallest  size. 
Press  the  top  lightly  with  the  hand,  and 
with  a  sharp  knife  cut  away  the  central 
part,  so  as  to  leave  a  wall  about  two 
inches  and  a  half  thick,  which  is  to  be 
trimmed  outside.  Mash  up  the  part  re- 
moved from  the  centre,  with  equal  parts 
of  white  wine  and  brandy,  sufficient  to 
flavor,  and  stir  in  some  thick  custard, 
then  pour  into  the  center  of  the  cake. 
Whip  the  whites  of  two  eggs  into  a  stiff 
froth,  pour  over  the  whole,  heaping  it 
well  up  in  the  centre,  and  shake  sifted 
sugar  thickly  on,  then  place  in  a  quick 
oven  until  the  frosting  is  set.  A  few 
pieces  of  strawberry  jam  or  any  other 
preserve  placed  round  the  bottom  of  the 
dish,  gives  a  finish*  to  the  whole. 

1495.-ICING  FOR  CAKES. 

Beat  the  whites  of  four  eggs  to  a  solid 


froth,  add  gradually  three-quarters  of  a 
pound  of  refined  sugar  pounded  and  sift- 
ed ;  mix  in  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon ; 
beat  it  till  very  light  and  white.  The 
cake  should  be  cold.  Place  it  before  the 
fire,  pour  over  it  the  icing,  and  smooth 
over  the  top  and  sides  with  a  knife.  It 
might  be  set  to  dry  at  the  mouth  of  a 
cooj  oven. 

1496.— LEMON  CAKES. 

Rub  half  a  pound  of  butter  into  one 
pound  of  flour  and  a  pound  of  powdered 
lump  sugar,  the  rind  and  juice  of  one 
lemon,  three  eggs,  leaving  out  the  whites 
unless  the  butter  be  very  hard.  Mix  all 
together,  and  drop  on  tins  in  small 
cakes. 

149T.— CINNAMON  BISCUITS. 
Half  a  pound  of  dry  flour,  one  pound 
of  lump  sugar,  finely  sifted ;  one  pound 
of  butter,  powdered  cinnamon  to  judg- 
ment. The  whole  to  be  mixed  with  a 
glass  of  brandy,  or  rum,  then  rolled 
very  thin,  and  baked  in  a  quick  oven. 

1498.— DIET  BREAD. 

To  half  a  pound  of  sifted  sugar  put 
four  eggs ;  beat  them  together  for  an 
hour ;  then  add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
flour  dried  and  sifted,  with  the  juice  of 
half  a  lemon  and  the  grated  rind  of  a 
whole  one.  Bake  it  in  a  slow  oven. 

1499.— CURRANT  CAKE. 
Beat  a  pound  of  fresh  butter  to  a 
cream;  take  one  pound  and  a  quarter 
of  sugar,  and  one  and  a  quarter  pounds  of 
currants  washed  and  picked,  and  beat  up 
the  whites  and  yolks  of  eight  eggs  ;  put 
in  the  sugar  by  degrees,  then  a  pound  of 
flour  and  currants  ;  add  a  gill  of  brandy, 
some  candied  orange  and  citron  ;  beat  the 
mixture  till  very  light,  and  bake  it  in  a 
pan. 

1500.— SEED  CAKES. 

Beat  one  pound  of  butter  to  a  cream, 


CAKES. 


481 


adding,  gradually,  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  sifted  sugar,  beating  both  together. 
Have  ready  the  yolks  of  eighteen  eggs, 
and  the  whites  of  ten,  beaten  separately  ; 
mix  in  the  whites  first  and  then  the 
yolks,  and  beat  the  whole  for  ten  min- 
utes ;  add  two  grated  nutmegs,  one  pound 
and  a  half  of  flour,  and  mix  them  very 
gradually  with  the  other  ingredients. 
When  the  oven  is  ready,  beat  in  three 
ounces  of  picked  carraway-seed.  To 
two  pounds  of  flour  add  two  ounces  of 
butter  rubbed  in,  half  a  pound  of  sugar, 
one  ounce  of  carraway-seed,  half  an 
ounce  of  ground  coriander-seed,  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  carbonate  of  soda,  and  a 
table-spoonful  of  arrowroot;  mix  the 
whole  well  together,  and  make  a  stiff 
paste  with  warm  milk ;  cut  into  thin 
cakes,  and  prick  over  with  a  fork  ;  bake 
slowly. 

1501.— PITCAITHLY  BANNOCK. 

Dry  before  the  fire  one  pound  fine 
flour ;  then  melt  half  a  pound  of  butter  ; 
then  mix  with  the  flour  two  ounces  of 
almonds  thinly  sliced;  two  ounces  of 
orange  peel,  two  ounces  of  sugared  carra- 
ways,  two  ounces  pounded  sugar,  then 
pour  on  these  ingredients  the  melted 
butter  ;  knead  all  together  well ;  put  the 
bannock  in  a  slow  oven,  and  bake  it  an 
hour. 

1502.— TO  MAKE  BANBUEY  CAKES. 

Roll  out  the  paste  about  half  an  inch 
thick,  and  cut  it  into  pieces,  then  roll 
again  till  each  piece  becomes  twice  the 
size ;  put  some  Banbury  meat  in  the 
middle  of  one  side,  fold  the  other  over  it, 
and  pinch  it  up  into  a  somewhat  oval 
shape,  flatten  it  with  your  hand  at  the 
top,  letting  the  seam  be  quite  at  the  bot- 
tom, rub  the  tops  over  with  the  white  of 
an  egg  laid  on  with  a  brush,  and  dust 
loaf-sugar  over  them.  Bake  in  a  moder- 
ate oven.  The  meat  fbr  this  cake  is  made 
thus  :— beat  up  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 


butter  until  it  becomes  in  the  state  of 
cream,  then  mix  with  it  half  a  pound  of 
candied  orange  and  lemon-peel  cut  fine, 
one  pound  of  currants,  a  quarter  of  an 
ounce  of  ground  cinnamon,  and  a  quarter 
of  an  ounce  of  allspice ;  mix  all  well  to- 
gether, and  keep  in  a  jar,  till  wanted  for 


1503.— PETS  DE  NONNE. 

Put  water  or  cream  in  a  stewpan  with 
sugar,  a  little  salt,  and  flavoring  of 
orange-flower  water  ;  when  near  boiling 
shake  flour  in  with  one  hand,  and  stir 
with  the  other,  till  the  paste  is  thin  and 
well  done  ;  take  it  off  the  fire,  and  break 
an  egg  in ;  turn  and  mix,  adding  a  second 
egg ;  add  eggs  till  the  paste  is  thick  and 
soft,  stirring  and  beating  it.  Have  butter 
boiling  hot  in  a  frying  pan,  drop  in  the 
paste  by  spoonfuls,  let  each  be  the  size  of 
a  walnut,  take  them  out,  and  keep  them 
hot  till  all  are  done  ;  sift  sugar  over  them, 
or  serve  sweet  sauce  of  wine,  butter, 
sugar,  and  grated  nutmeg. 

1504.-BISCUITS. 

Those  of  the  common  sort  are  made  in 
various  ways.  For  a  large  quantity  beat 
up  eight  eggs  during  nearly  half  an  hour, 
then  put  in  one  pound  of  white  powder- 
ed sugar,  with  the  grated  peel  of  a  lemon, 
and  whisk  that  again  for  the  same  time, 
or  until  it  appears  well  mixed ;  after 
which  make  it  into  a  batter  with  one 
pound  of  flour,  and  a  little  rose-water. 

Bake  the  dough  in  tins,  or  on  papers, 
and  either  sugar  them  or  put  in  carra- 
ways  at  your  pleasure. 

Or  : — One  pound  of  flour,  half  a  pound 
of  loaf-sugar,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
butter;  rub  all  together;  wet  it  with 
one  egg  beaten  up  in  half  a  teacupful  of 
milk,  and  roll  it  out  thin. 

1505.— GOLD  AND  SILVER  CAKE 
Is  made  by  using  the  whites  of  the  eggs 


482 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


for  the  latter,  and  the  yolks  for  the  firs 
The  other  proportions  like  pound  cake. 

1506.— FEANGIPANE 

Is  a  French  paste,  made  with  two  or  thre 
eggs  put  into  a  saucepan  with  one  table 
spoonful  of  flour,  moistened  with  a  little 
milk,  and  placed  on  the  fire  for  abou 
ten  minutes  j  taking  care  to  stir  the  ma 
terials  continually,  to  prevent  them  fron 
sticking  to  the  pan.  The  substance  maj 
either  be  used  as  a  paste  for  tartlets,  o 
eaten  as  cakes,  if  made  with  sugar  anc 
macaroons. 

1507.— LA  GALETTE 

Is  in  great  favor  among  the  Parisians 
who  usually  eat  it  with  sweetmeats,  bu1 
vary  it  in  point  of  richness  by  the 
greater  or  less  quantity  of  cream  and 
butter  employed  in  making  it  up.  It  is 
thus  made : — 

Take  one  pound  each  of  butter  and 
flour,  a  little  salt,  and  two  eggs ;  knead 
the  whole  together  into  a  paste,  roll  it 
to  not  more  than  an  inch  in  thickness, 
and  make  it  the  size  of  a  dessert-plate. 
Then  put  it  into  the  oven  for  a  quarter 
of  an  hour ;  take  it  out ;  beat  up  two 
eggs  with  a  little  cream  and  some  salt ; 
pour  it  over  the  cake,  and  return  it  to 
the  oven  to  bake  for  another  quarter  of 
an  hour ;  or,  if  you  please,  ornament  the 
back  with  candied  citron. 

1508.— ISLE  OF  WIGHT  CKACKNELS. 

Mix  with  a  quart  of  flour  half  a  nut- 
meg grated,  the  yolks  of  four  eggs 
beaten,  with  four  spoonfuls  of  rose-water, 
into  a  stiff  paste,  with  cold  water  ;  then 
roll  in  one  pound  of  butter,  and  make 
them  into  a  cracknel  shape  ;  put  them 
into  a  kettle  of  boiling  water,  and  boil 
them  till  they  swim  ;  then  take  them  out 
and  put  them  into  cold  water]  when 
hardened,  lay  them  out  to  dry,  and  bake 
them  on  tin  plates. 


1509.— CKACKNELS. 

Half  a  pound  of  flour,  half  a  pound  of 
sugar,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  butter 
two  table-spoonfuls  of  rose-water,  a  little 
salt  and  rice,  and  eggs 'well  beaten.  Mix 
together  twenty  minutes;  roll  and  cut 
into  shapes.  Rub  a  baking  sheet  with 
butter,  and  when  baked,  wash  them  with 
white  of  egg. 

1510.— FEENCH  BEEAD. 

Commence  as  for  common  bread,  but 
use  milk  instead  of  water.  When  it  is 
light,  add  two  quarts  warm  milk,  salt 
half  a  pound  of  butter,  and  one  ounce 
sifted  loaf  sugar ;  knead  well  and  let  it 
rise  again.  Make  it  into  rolls ;  put  them 
in  a  warm  place  half  an  hour,  then  bake 
in  a  quick  oven. 

1511.— KEINGLES. 

Beat  well  the  yolks  of  eight  and 
whites  of  two  eggs,  and  mix  with  four 
ounces  of  butter  just  warmed,  and  with 
this  knead  one  pound  of  flour  and  four 
Dunces  of  sugar  to  a  paste.  Roll  into 
thick  biscuits ;  prick  them,  and  bake  on 
tin  plates. 

GINGERBREAD. 

This  is  amongst  the  most  ancient 
;pecies  of  cake  known  throughout  Eng- 
and  and  the  north  of  Europe.  It  is  the 
delight  of  children  ;  in  Holland  it  is  the 
:ommon  accompaniment  of  the  "schnaps," 
and  in  Ghent  there  are  shops  famous  for 
t.  The  following  are  selected  from 
imongst  the  numerous  ways  of  making 
t  in  this  country. 

>12.— SOFT  GINGEEBBEAD  (from  a  Lady  ot 

New  York). 

Three  cups  molasses,  one  of  butter, 
ne  of  milk,  ginger,  a  table- spoonful  of 
aleratus,  and  flour  enough  to  make  it 
he  stiffness  of  pound  cake. 

Another  .-—Half  a  pound  of  butter,  a 


CAKES. 


483 


quart  of  molasses,  eight  eggs,  four  table- 
spoonfuls  sifted  ginger,  two  teaspoon- 
fuls  saleratus,  allspice,  and  flour  enough 
to  make  it  stiff  as  pound  cake. 

1513.-HARD  GINGERBREAD. 

Eub  half  a  pound  of  butter  into  one 
pound  of  flour ;  then  rub  in  half  a  pound 
of  sugar,  two  table-spoonfuls  of  ginger, 
and  a  spoonful  of  rose-water;  work  it 
well ;  roll  out,  and  bake  in  flat  pans  in  a 
moderate  oven.  It  will  take  about  half 
an  hour  to  bake.  This  gingerbread  will 
keep  good  some  time. 

1514  —GIN  GEEBRE  AD-NUTS. 

Mix  half  a  pound  of  flour,  the  same 
quantity  of  butter  and  of  brown  sugar, 
with  three  ounces  of  ginger,  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  carbonate  of  soda  rubbed  in  the 
flour,  with  as  much  molasses  as  will  make 
it  into  a  paste.  Roll  it  out  thin,  and 
bake  it  for  about  twenty  minutes  in  a 
slow  oven. 

1515.— PASSOVER  CAKES. 

Make  a  stiff  paste  with  biscuit-powder, 
milk,  and  water  ;  add  a  little  butter,  the 
yolk  of  an  egg,  and  a  little  white  sugar. 
Cut  into  pieces,  mould  with  the  hand, 
and  bake  in  a  brisk  oven :  they  should 
not  be  too  thin. 

1516.-SCOTCH  SHORT-BREAD. 

To  four  pounds  of  flour  take  two  of 
butter,  half  a  pound  of  moist  sugar, 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  citron,  and  the 
same  of  almonds,  the  latter  blanched, 
and  all  cut  small.  Mix  the  sugar  and 
fruit  well  with  the  flour,  then  work  it  up 
with  the  butter,  cold,  till  it  is  smooth 
and  compact,  but  it  will  take  a  long 
time;  divide  into  four  or  more  pieces, 
and  roll  out  each  piece  into  an  oblong 
cake,  having  previously  floured  the  table 
well.  Prick  the  top  with  a  steel  fork, 
strew  some  orange  and  citron  cut  thin, 


and  some  large  caraway-comfits,  press 
them  in  with  the  roller,  then  pinch  round 
the  edges,  put  the  cakes  in  floured  tins  ; 
bake  for  twenty  minutes.  If  the  cake 
rise  after  the  pressing  of  the  finger,  it  is 
sufficiently  done. 

Or : — One  pound  each  of  butter  and 
sifted  sugar,  two  pounds  of  flour,  eight 
ounces  of  sweet  and  four  ounces  of  bit- 
ter Almonds,  a  small  piece  of  cinnamon, 
all  pounded,  and  a  glass  of  brandy. 
Soften  the  butter  before  the  fire,  then 
rub  in  the  flour,  and  make  it  into  a  paste  ; 
roll  it  out  half  an  inch  thick,  and  bake  it 
on  a  tin  in  a  slow  oven,  as  it  should  be 
of  a  pale  color. 

1517.— POTATO  CHEESECAKES. 

Boil  six  ounces  of  potatoes,  and  four 
of  lemon-peel,  beat  tjie  latter  in  a  marble 
mortar  with  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
sugar,  then  add  the  same  quantity  of 
butter,  melted  in  a  little  cream,  and  the 
potatoes  beaten :  mix  well,  and  let  it 
stand  to  cool ;  put  crust  in  patty-pans, 
rather  more  than  half  fill  them,  sift 
some  sugar  over,  and  bake  half  an  hour 
in  a  quick  oven. 

Tipsy  Cake. — Put  a  sponge-cake  into 
a  deep  glass  dish,  pour  round  it  a  glass 
of  brandy  and  some  raisin-wine,  and  let 
it  soak  it  up ;  then  strew  sifted  sugar 
over  it,  pour  a  thick  custard  into  the 
dish,  and  ornament  the  top  with  blanch- 
ed almonds  split  and  put  thick. 

1518.— DOUGHNUTS. 

Set  a  sponge  with  a  pound  of  flour, 
milk  and  good  yeast ;  rub  nearly  half  a 
pound  of  butter  into  another  pound  of 
flour,  and  add  half  a  pound  of  sugar, 
with  grated  nutmeg  and  spice,  and  mix 
with  it  three  beaten  eggs ;  mix  it  with 
the  light  sponge,  and  more  milk  if  neces- 
sary, and  set  it  to  rise.  When  it  is  per- 
fectly light,  roll  out  the  dough  on  a 
pasteboard,  cut  it  into  slips,  double  and 


484: 


THE    PRACTICAL    HOUSEKEEPER. 


twist  them  up,  and  fry  them  in  boiling 
lard. 

For  Crullers— Allow  to  the  flour  more 
butter  and  sugar,  and  six  eggs,  without 
yeast,  and  fry  as  before,  making  smaller 
cakes. 

1519.— BOSTON  CEEAM  CAKES. 

Take  half  a  pint  of  cream  from  a  quart 
of  milk,  and  boil  it  with  vanilla  and.  cin- 
namon ;  strain  and  mix  it  with  the  rest 
of  the  milk;  when  cold,  add  the  yolks 
of  twelve  eggs  and  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  loaf-sugar,  and  bake  the  custard 
in  a  bain-marie;  have  ready  a  batter 
made  of  half  a  pound  of  flour  and  the 
same  of  butter,  in  a  pint  of  milk,  with 
eight  eggs,  and  bake  it  in  buttered  deep 
patt}r-pans,  not  scolloped ;  when  brown- 
ed, open  a  slit  in  the  side  of  each  while 
hot,  and  put  in  with  a  spoon  as  much 
of  the  custard  as  it  will  hold ;  close  the 
slit  smoothly,  and  set  the  cakes  away. 

1520.— SPANISH  PUFFS. 

Boil  three-quarters  of  a  pint  of  milk 
with  one  ounce  of  butter,  six  ounces  of 
flour,  mixed  well  in  the  hot  milk — flavor 
with  vanilla.  Drop  about  the  size*  of  a 
walnut,  and  lightly  bake.  When  done, 
open  gently  at  the  side  and  fill  with  pre- 
serve. 

1521.— ALMACK. 

Plums,  pears,  and  apples,  each  two 
pounds  ;  pare,  core,  and  stew  together — 
rub  through  a  sieve.  Add  half  a  pound 
of  moist  sugar;  boil  until  it  is  quite 
stiff;  spread  on  dishes  to  dry.  When 
set,  cut  in  squares  and  put  by  for  use. 

1522.— KISSES. 

Beat  the  whites  of  four  eggs  till  they 
stand  alone.  Then  beat  in,  gradually, 
a  pound  of  finely-powdered  sugar,  a  tea- 
spoonful  at  a  time.  Add  eight  drops  of 
the  essence  of  lemon,  and  beat  the  whole 
Tery  hard. 


Lay  a  wet  sheet  of  paper  on  the  bot- 
tom of  a  square  tin  pan.  Drop  on  it,  at 
equal  distance,  small  teaspoonfuls  of  stiff 
currant  jelly.  Put  a  little  of  the  beaten 
egg  and  sugar  at  first,  under  the  currant 
jelly.  With  a  large  spoon,  pile  some  of 
the  beaten  white  of  egg  and  sugar,  on 
each  lump  of  jelly,  so  as  to  cover  it  en- 
tirely. Drop  on  the  mixture  as  evenly 
as  possible,  so  as  to  make  the  kisses  of  a 
round,  smooth  shape. 

Set  them  in  a  cool  oven,  and  as  soon 
as  they  are  colored,  they  are  done.  Then 
take  them  out,  and  place  the  two  bot- 
toms together.  Lay  them  lightly  on  a 
sieve,  and  dry  them  in  a  cool  oven,  till 
the  two  bottoms  stick  fast  together  so  as 
to  form  one  ball  or  oval. 

1523.— MACAKOONS. 

Blanch  and  skin  half  a  pound  of  sweet 
almonds,  dry  them  well  in  your  screen, 
then  put  them  into  a  mortar  with  a 
pound  and  a  half  of  lump  sugar,  pound 
well  together,  and  pass  the  whole  through 
a  wire  sieve  ;  put  it  again  into  a  mortar, 
with  the  whites  of  two  eggs,  mix  well 
together  with  the  pestle,  then  add  the 
white  of  another  egg,  proceeding  thus 
until  you  have  used  the  whites  of  about 
eight  eggs  and  made  a  softish  paste,  when 
lay  them  out  at  equal  distances  apart, 
upon  wafer-paper,  in  pieces  nearly  the 
size 'of  walnuts,  place  some  strips  of  al- 
monds upon  the  top,  sift  sugar  over,  and 
bake  in  a  slow  oven  of  a  yellowish  brown 
color ;  they  are  done  when  set  quite  firm 
through. 

1524.— EATAFIAS. 

Ratafias  are  made  similar  to  the  above, 
but  deducting  two  ounces  of  sweet,  and 
adding  two  ounces  of  bitter  almonds ; 
they  are  laid  out  in  much  smaller  cakes 
upon  common  paper,  and  baked  in  a 
much  warmer  oven ;  when  cold,  they 
may  be  taken  off  the  paper  with  the 
greatest  ease. 


CAKES CHEESECAKES. 


485 


These  cakes  arfe  very  serviceable  in 
making  a  great  many  second-course 
dishes. 

1525— RICE  CAKES. 

Take  eight  yolks  and  four  whites  of 
eggs,  and  beat  to  a  foam ;  add  six  ounces 
of  powdered  sugar,  and  the  peel  of  one 
lemon  grated  ;  then  stir  in  half  a  pound 
of  ground  rice,  and  beat  all  together  for 
half  an  hour.  Put  it  into  a  buttered 
tin,  and  bake  twenty  minutes.  This 
cake  is  recommended  as  very  easy  of  di- 
gestion. The  foregoing  cakes  are  made 
without  butter,  and  therefore  are  not 
apt  to  prove  injurious. 

1526.— BOLA  D' AMOUR— LOYE  CAKES. 

Take  the  yolks  of  eggs,  as  many  as 
are  required  for  the  dish  (about  twelve), 
and  beat  them  up  in  a  pan  with  an  equal 
weight  of  sugar,  the  same  as  sponge 
cake,  using  any  kind  of  liquor  or  essence 
for  flavoring.  When  the  mixture  is 
beaten  up  light  and  thick,  have  ready 
some  clarified  butter  in  a  stewpan,  made 
hot  enough  for  frying.  Pour  the  mix- 
ture into  a  funnel  having  a  small  bore  or 
pipe,  and  let  it  run  into  the  hot  butter, 
turning  the  hand  while  it  is  running,  so 
that  it  may  be  formed  into  threads  all 
over  the  surface  of  the  pan.  In  about 
two  minutes  it  will  be  done,  when  it 
.should  be  taken  out  with  a  skimmer,  and 
be  placed  on  a  dish  for  serving,  garnish- 
ing it  with  any  kind  of  preserve,  and 
serve  cold. 

Another  way  is,  to  beat  up  the  eggs 
with  some  liquor,  and  run  it  into  some 
boiling  syrup  at  the  blow. 

1527.-EXCELLENT  CHEESECAKES,  KNOWN 
AT  RICHMOND  AS  "MAIDS  OF  HONOR." 

Make  some  milk  lukewarm,  then  put 
a  spoonful  of  rennet,  stir  it  well  through 
a  cheese-cloth  to  get  rid  of  the  whey ; 
then  to  half  a  pound  of  curd  put  six 
ounces  of  butter,  four  yolks  of  eggs,  and 
31 


sugar  and  nutmeg  to  the  taste.  Mix  all 
the  ingredients  well,  line  pattypans 
with  a  puff  paste,  fill  them  with  the  mix- 
ture, arid  bake  in  a  quick  oven.  The 
cheesecakes  may  be  flavored  with  lemon 
for  a  variety. 

1528.— CHEESECAKES. 

Take  the  curd  of  three  quarts  of  milk, 
a  pound  of  currants,  twelve  ounces  of 
sugar,  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  cinna- 
mon, the  same  quantity  of  nutmeg,  and 
the  peel  of  a  lemon  chopped  to  a  paste ; 
the  yolks  of  eight  and  the  whites  of  six 
eggs,  a  pint  of  scalded  cream  and  a  pint 
of  brandy ;  mix  them  all  together,  put 
a  light  thin  puff-paste  into  your  patty- 
pans and  half  fill  them. 

1529.— SOYER'S  QUEEN  VICTORIA'S  CAKE. 

To  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  flour, 
add  half  an  ounce  of  yeast,  mixed  with 
warm  water  until  forming  a  stiff  paste, 
and  place  it  in  a  stewpan,  and  let  it 
stand  by  the  fire  or  oven  until  well  risen, 
during  which  time  the  butter  must  be 
well  worked  until  soft,  adding  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  flour  more  and  five  eggs 
gradually,  and  beat  them  well  together ; 
when  done,  if  the  leaven  is  well  risen, 
add  to  it  one  and  a  half  pounds  of  rai- 
sins, with  a  little  salt  and  sugar ;  let  it 
stand  in  the  mould  for  a  short  time,  and 
bake  it  in  a  slow  oven.  ** 

1580.— ELETHERIAN  PINE  APPLE  CAKE. 

Take  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  pine 
apple,  not  over  ripe,  peel  it ;  place  half  a 
pound  of  white  sugar  in  a  pan,  with  half 
pint  of  water,  boil  till  a  thick  syrup ;  cut 
the  pine  in  small  dice  of  a  quarter  of  an 
inch,  and  pour  the  syrup  over;  and, 
when  nearly  cold,  add  to  it  the  dough, 
which  has  previously  been  mixed  with 
three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  butter  and 
two  eggs ;  let  it  rise  in  a  hoop  as  above, 
and  bake  in  the  same  way :  a  glass  of 
rum  may  be  added. 


486 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


1581.-BABA. 

Take  three  pounds  of  flour,  one-quar- 
ter of  which  set  apart  and  mix  into  dough 
with  a  gill  of  good  yeast  and  a  little 
warm  water;  cover  it  close  in  a  stew- 
pan  and  set  it  by  the  fire  to  rise  ;  when 
you  see  the  dough  rise  and  nearly  ready, 
form  the  other  parts  of  the  flour  in  a 
circle  on  the  table,  in  which  put  half  an 
ounce  of  salt,  one  ounce  of  sugar,  a  half 
pound  of  butter  and  twelve  eggs  and  a 
table-spoon  of  saffron ;  mix  the  butter 
and  eggs  well  together  before  you  put  it 
to  the  flour ;  when  it  is  all  mixed  spread 
it  out  and  put  the  dough  to  it  and  knead 
it  well.  When  the  yeast  is  nearly  mixed 
in,  add  two  pounds  of  raisins  stoned, 
a  few  at  a  time,  have  ready  two  moulds 
buttered,  and  put  three  parts  full  of  dough 
and  set  in  a  warm  place  to  rise  very 
gently ;  when  raised  to  the  top  of  the 
mould  bake  in  a  hot  oven ;  a  brick  oven  is 
best. 

1582.-CHEESECAKE8,    APPLE. 

Take  twelve  apples,  pare,  core,  and 
boil  in  sufficient  water  to  wash  them; 
beat  them  very  smooth ;  add  six  yolks  of 
eggs,  the  juice  of  two  lemons,  some  grated 
lemon  peel,  half  a  pound  of  fresh  butter, 
beaten  to  a  cream,  and  sweetened  with 
powdered  sugar ;  beat  in  with  the  apples, 
bake  in  a.tpuff  crust,  and  serve  open. 

1583.— CHEESECAKES,  ALMOND. 

Take  four  ounces  of  blanched  almonds, 
mixed  with  a  few  bitter,  beat  them  with 
a  spoonful  of  water,  add  four  ounces  of 
powdered  sugar,  a  spoonful  of  cream,  and 
the  whites  of  two  eggs  well  beaten ;  mix 
them  quickly,  put  into  small  pattypans, 
and  bake  for  twenty  minutes  in  a  mod- 
erately warm  oven. 

1534— CHEESECAKES,  BEEAD 

Take  a  French  roll,  slice  it  very  thin, 
pour  over  it  some  boiling  cream,  allow  it 


to  cool  and  then  addfr  six  or  eight  eggs 
half  a  pound  of  butter  melted,  a  spoonfu. 
of  brandy,  half  a  pound  of  currants, 
some  nutmeg,  and  a  little  sugar;  put 
them  in  puff-paste,  the  same  as  other 
cheesecakes. 

1535.— CHEESECAKES,    CITEON. 

Take  a  pint  of  cream,  boil  it,  and  when 
cold  mix  it  with  two  eggs  well  beaten ; 
then  boil  them  together,  until  they  be- 
come a  curd.  Put  in  a  few  blanched  al- 
monds beaten  in  a  mortar  with  a  little 
orange-flower  water,  and  some  Naples 
biscuits  and  green  citron  chopped  very 
small.  Sweeten,  and  bake  in  tins. 

1536.-CHEESECAKES,  LEMON. 
Take  four  ounces  of  sifted  lump  sugar 
and  the  same  quantity  of  butter ;  melt 
them  slowly,  add  the  yolks  of  two  and 
the  white  of  one  egg,  a  sponge  cake, 
some  blanched  almonds,  the  rind  of  three 
lemons  shred  fine,  and  the  juice  of  one 
lemon  and  a  half,  and  three  spoonfuls  of 
brandy  ;  mix  all  well  together,  then  make 
a  paste  with  eight  ounces  of  flour,  and 
six  ounces  of  butter,  mixing  four  ounces 
of  it  with  the  flour  first,  then  wet  it  with 
six  spoonfuls  of  water,  and  roll  in  the 
remainder  of  the  butter ;  put  the  ingre- 
dients to  this  paste,  and  bake  it. 


CUSTAKDS,    CREAMS, 
JELLIES,  &c. 

CUSTARD  is  always  eaten  cold,  a'-d 
either  poured  over  fruit  tarts,  or  served 
up  separately  in  custard-cups,  in  each  of 
which  a  macaroon  steeped  in  wine,  and 
laid  at  the  bottom,  will  be  found  a  good 
addition. 

The  flavoring  may  likewise  be  altered, 
according  to  taste,  by  using  a  different 
kind  of  essence,  the  name  of  which  it 


CTJ6TAKDS. 


487 


then  acquires  ;  as  of  lemon,  orange,  ma- 
rashino  vanilla,  &c.  It  is  almost  needless 
to  say  that  cream  or  a  portion  of  it  will 
make  it  richer  than  mere  milk. 

The  French,  mode  of  making  it  is,  to 
measure  the  number  of  cups  which  are 
to  be  filled,  and  use  nearly  that  quantity 
of  milk  or  cream,  simmering  it  upon  the 
fire,  until  beginning  to  boil,  with  lemon- 
peel,  bay-leaves,  or  almonds,  then  adding 
about  half  an  ounce  of  powdered  sugar 
to  each  cup ;  then  take  the  yolk  of  an 
egg  to  each  small  cup,  beat  them  up  with 
the  milk,  fill  the  cups,  place  in  a  bain- 
marie  or  vate  of  boiling  water  until  the 
custard  become  firm. 

For  boiled  custard: — Boil  the  milk 
with  the  flavoring  till  thick  enough ;  pour 
it  boiling  hot  over  beaten  yolks  of  eggs, 
eight  to  a  quart ;  sweeten  to  taste,  stir 
till  cold  and  smooth. 

1537.— ARROWROOT  CUSTARD. 

One  pint  of  milk,  one  table-spoonful 
of  arrowroot,  one  of  sugar,  boil  the  milk 
with  a  stick  of  cinnamon  in  it,  wet  the 
arrowroot  with  a  little  cold  milk,  add  to 
it  one  egg  well  beaten,  add  the  sugar,  stir 
the  whole  into  the  boiling  milk,  flavor 
it  with  vanilla,  wine,  or  rose  when  nearly 
cold. 

You  may  flavor  custards  with  lemon- 
peel,  vanilla,  or  any  thing  you  choose, 
and  make  them  as  rich  as  you  like. 

1538.— BLANC  MANGE. 

Wet  one  ounce  or  four  sheets  of 
Cooper's  Isinglass  in  cold  water,  boil 
one  quart  of  milk  with  a  stick  of  cinna- 
mon in  it,  drain  the  isinglass  out  of  the 
water  and  stir  it  into  the  milk  ;  when  dis- 
solved, strain  it  through  a  flannel  bag, 
sweeten  it,  and  when  cold  pour  it  into  the 
moulds. 

1589.— CUSTARD  CREAM  OF  CHOCOLATE. 
Scrape  one-quarter  of  a  pound  of  the 


best  chocolate ;  pour  on  it  a  teacupful  of 
boiling  water,  and  let  it  stand  by  the 
fire  till  it  has  dissolved.  Beat  eight  eggs 
very  light,  omitting  the  whites  of  two. 
Stir  them  by  degrees  into  a  quart  of 
cream  or  rich  milk,  alternately  with  the 
melted  chocolate  and  three  table-spoon- 
fuls of  powdered  white  sugar.  Put  the 
mixture  into  cups  and  bake  it  ten  min- 
utes, gend  them  to  table  cold,  with 
whipped  white  of  egg  heaped  on  the  top 
of  each  custard. 

1540.— COFFEE  CUSTARD. 

This  is  made  by  putting  a  quart  of 
milk  on  the  fire,  with  about  six  ounces 
of  white  sugar.  In  another  vessel  beat 
up  the  yolks  of  ten  eggs,  and  pour  the 
milk  gradually  upon  them.  Roast  your 
coffee  (three  or  four  ounces)  till  it  is  of 
a  very  light  brown  color,  and  gives  out 
all  its  flavor  j  break  it  in  a  mortar,  slight- 
ly, and  add  it,  while  hot,  to  your  hot 
custard.  Strain  through  a  jelly-bag, 
pour  the  cream  into  cups,  and  put  them 
to  cool.  Every  thing  depends  on  the 
coffee  being  used  whilst  hot,  so  as  to 
catch  the  aroma  which  goes  off  as  it 
cools. 

Or : — Pour  half  a  pint  of  cold  water 
on  the  same  quantity  of  fresh  ground 
coffee  in  a  French  coffee-pot,  press  it 
down  and  put  on  the  lid.  Stop  the 
mouth  of  the  spout,  and  when  the  water 
has  filtered  down,  pour  it  off,  and  return 
it  to  the  top.  to  filter  a  second  time. 
Have  a  custard  made  with  eight  eggs  to  a 
pint  of  milk,  sweetened  to  taste.  Stir  in 
the  coffee,  put  it  in  custard  cups,  and 
bake  in  a  pan  with  water  half  to  their 
tops.  Send  cold  to  table. 

1541.— CHAMPAGNE  CREAM 

Is  made  by  beating  up  the  yolks  of 
six  eggs  with  as  much  powdered  sugar 
as  wil£  make  it  quite  stiff— so  much  so 
as  nearly  to  make  the  spoon  stand  in  it. 


488 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


Then  pour  on  it  very  gradually — stirring 
it  all  the  time— a  bottle  of  sparkling 
champagne :  grate  on  it  a  little  nutmeg, 
and  serve  it  to  the  ladies,  who  seldom 
refuse  a  second  glass. 

A  bottle  of  good  cider  or  perry  will  be 
a  tolerable  substitute. 

1542.— LECH*  CREMA. 

Beat  up  three  eggs,  leaving  out  two  of 
the  whites,  and  add  to  to  them  gradually 
one  pint  and  a  half  of  milk ;  then  mix 
very  carefully  four  table-spoonfuls  of  fine 
wheat-flour,  and  two  ounces  of  finely 
powdered  loaf-sugar,  with  grated  lemon- 
peel  to  give  a  flavor.  Boil  these  ingre- 
dients over  a  slow  fire,  stirring  constant- 
ly to  prevent  burning,  until  the  flour  is 
quite  dissolved.  Prepare  a  shallow  dish 
with  some  ratafia  cakes  at  the  bottom, 
and  when  the  "  crema"  is  sufficiently 
boiled,  pour  it  through  a  sieve  upon  the 
cakes.* 

1548.— ITALIAN  CREAM. 

Whip  together  for  nearly  an  hour  a 
quart  of  very  thick  scalded  cream,  a 
quart  of  raw  cream,  the  grated  rind  of 
four  lemons  and  the  strained  juice,  with 
ten  ounces  of  white  powdered  sugar; 
then  add  half  a  pint  of  sweet  wine,  and 
continue  to  whisk  it  until  it  becomes 
quite  solid.  Lay  a  piece  of  muslin  in  a 
sieve,  and  lay  the  cream  upon  it  with  a 
spoon.  In  twenty  hours  turn  it  carefully 
out,  but  mind  that  it  does  not  break. 
Garnish  it  with  fruit-jelly  or  with 
flowers. 

Another. — Whip  up  three-quarters  of 
a  pint  of  very  rich  cream  to  a  strong 
froth,  with  some  finely  scraped  lemon- 
peel,  a  squeze  of  the  juice,  half  a  glass 

*  Some  finely  powdered  cinnamon  should  be 
dusted  pretty  thickly  over  it.  This  delicious  dish 
Is  always  served  up  cold.  The  receipt  was  obtained 
from  the  nuns  of  Santa  Clara  convent  at  Palmas, 
in  the  island  of  Grand  Canary. 


of  sweet  wine,  and  sugar  to  make  it 
pleasant,  but  not  too  sweet ;  lay  it  on  a 
sieve  or  in  a  form,  and  next  day  put  it  on 
a  dish,  and  ornament  it  with  very  light 
puif-paste  biscuits,  made  in  tin  shapes 
the  length  of  a  finger,  and  about  two 
thick,  over  which  sugar  may  be  strewed, 
or  a  little  glazed  with  isinglass.  Or  you 
may  use  macaroons  to  line  the  edges  of 
the  dish. 

1544.-CLOUTED  CREAM. 

Strain  the  milk  as  soon  as  it  comes 
from  the  cow  into  wide  pans,  holding 
about  six  quarts  each,  so  as  to  be  about 
three  inches  deep,  and  let  it  remain  for 
twenty-four  hours  ;  then  gently  place  the 
pan  upon  a  hot  plate  or  slow  charcoal 
fire,  which  must  heat  it  very  gently,  for 
if  it  boils  it  is  spoilt;  as  soon  as  the 
cream  forms  a  ring  in  the  middle,  re- 
move a  little  with  the  finger,  and  if 
a  few  bubbles  rise  in  the  place  where 
you  do  so,  it  is  done,  which  will  be  in 
half  to  three  quarters  of  an  hour ;  re- 
move it  from  the  fire,  and  let  it  remain 
twenty-four  hours ;  then  skim  it,  and 
throw  a  little  sugar  on  the  top. 

1545.— CHARLOTTE  RUSSE.  (Furnished  for 
this  work  by  Mr.  TAYLOR,  Proprietor  of  Taylor's 
splendid  Establishment,  Broadway,  New  York.) 

Dissolve  one  ounce  of  isinglass  in  half 
a  pint  of  milk,  and  add  to  it  when  dis- 
solved the  yolks  of  six  eggs,  and  half  a 
pound  of  white  powdered  sugar. 

Whip  up  a  quart  of  sweet  cream  in  one 
vessel,  and  the  whites  of  six  eggs  in  an- 
other. 

When  the  isinglass,  &c.,  is  nearly 
cold,  stir  it  gradually  into  the  cream. 
Then  add  the  whites  and  stir  up  the 
whole  together.  Pour  it  in  a  mould,  and 
set  it  on  the  ice  for  an  hour. 

1546.— CHARLOTTE    RUSSE.     (Furnished  by  a 
Lady  of  New  York.) 

Make  a  custard  of  four  eggs,  one  pint  of 


JELLY TRIFLE. 


489 


milk,  and  five  table-spoonfuls  of  sugar ; 
boil  a  vanilla  bean  with  the  milk.  Dis- 
solve half  an  ounce  of  isinglass  in  a  tea- 
cupful  of  water,  put  a  pint  of  cream  in  a 
tin  pan,  stand  it  over  ice,  and  when  the 
isinglass  is  cold,  mix  it  with  the  cream 
and  beat  it  to  a  thick  froth ;  pour  the 
cooled  custard  in  and  beat  it  all  well. 
Place  lady- fingers  or  spongecake  inside 
the  form,  pour  in  the  mixture,  and  leave 
it  on  the  ice  to  thicken. 

1547— STEAWBEEEY  CHAELOTTE. 

Line  a  plain  round  mould  with  ripe 
strawberries  by  burying  the  mould  in 
ice  to  the  rim,  and  dipping  the  straw- 
berries in  calf's-foot  jelly,  first  covering 
the  bottom  with  them  cut  in  halves,  the 
cutside  downwards,  afterwards  building 
them  up  the  sides,  the  jelly  (which  must 
be  cold,  but  not  set)  causing  them  to  ad- 
here ;  when  finished  fill  it  with  the  cream 
as  directed  for  the  charlotte  russe,  and 
when  ready  to  serve  dip  the  mould  in 
warm  water,  and  turn  it  out  upon  your 
dish.  The  cream  must  be  very  nearly 
set  when  you  pour  it  in,  or  it  would  run 
between  the  strawberries,  and  produce  a 
bad  effect. 

Slip. — Warm  two  quarts  or  more  of 
new  milk,  then  put  in  it  a  piece  of  ren- 
net that  has  been  kept  in  wine,  or  suffi- 
cient of  the  liquor  to  curdle  it.  When  a 
firm  curd  is  formed,  set  it  in  a  cool  place. 
Serve  with  grated  nutmeg  over  it,  and 
with  cream. 

1648.— EASY  AND  EXCELLENT  KECEIPT 
FOE  JELLY. 

(By  a  Lady  of  New  York.) 

Seven  bars  isinglass  dissolved  in  two 
quarts  water.  When  cold,  add  the  juice 
and  rind  of  six  lemons — the  whites  and 
shells  of  six  eggs,  a  pint  and  a  half  of 
wine,  one  and  a  quarter  pounds  sugar ; 
Btir  all  well,  boil  it  five  minutes,  and 
strain  through  a  jelly-cloth. 


1549.— A  GEEMAN  TEIFLE. 

Put  a  pint  of  strawberries  or  any 
other  fresh  fruit  in  the  bottom  of  a  glass 
dish.  Sugar  the  fruit,  put  over  it  a  layer 
of  macaroons ;  and  pour  over  it  a  cus- 
tard, made  with  a  quart  of  fresh  milk 
and  the  yolks  of  eight  eggs  beaten, 
sweetened  to  taste,  and  scalding  hot. 
When  cold,  place  on  the  top  the  whites 
of  the  eggs  beaten  to  a  froth  with  a  little 
sugar,  or  cream  whipped  to  a  froth. 
The  egg  may  be  made  ornamental  by 
beating  currant  jelly  with  part  of  it, 
and  putting  it  hi  alternate  hills  of  white 
and  pink. 

1550.— GOOSEBEEEY  OE  APPLE  TEIFLE. 

Scald  a  sufficient  quantity  of  fruit,  and 
pulp  it  through  a  sieve,  add  sugar  agree- 
able to  your  taste,  make  a  thick  layer  of 
this  at  the  bottom  of  your  dish  ;  mix  a 
pint  of  milk,  a  pint  of  cream,  and  the 
yolks  of  two  eggs,  scald  it  over  the  fire, 
observing  to  stir  it ;  add  a  small  quantity 
of  sugar,  and  let  it  get  cold.  Then  lay 
it  over  the  apples  or  gooseberries  with  a 
spoon,  and  put  on  the  whole  a  whip 
made  the  day  before. 

If  you  use  apples,  add  the  rind  of  a 
lemon  grated. 

1551.— SYLLABUB. 

Mix  a  quart  of  cream  with  half  a  pint 
of  sherry  wine,  and  sweeten  it  to  taste, 
adding  essence  or  grated  rind  of  lemon, 
and,  if  desired,  the  juice  of  the  fruit. 
Churn  or  beat  the  mixture  to  a  thick 
froth,  which  skim  off  and  put  in  a  glass 
bowl,  over  slices  of  sponge  cake. 

1552.— A  FLOATING  ISLAND. 

Take  a  pint  of  thick  cream,  sweeten 
with  fine  sugar,  grate  in  the  peel  of  one 
lemon,  and  add  a  gill  of  sweet  white 
wine ;  whisk  it  well  till  you  have  raised 
a  good  froth ;  then  pour  a  pint  of  thick 
cream  into  a  china  dish,  take  a  sponge 
cake,  slice  it  thin,  and  lay  it  over  the 


490 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


cream  as  lightly  as  possible ;  then  a  layer 
of  clear  calves'  feet  jelly,  or  currant 
jelly ;  then  whip  up  your  cream,  and  lay 
on  the  froth  as  high  as  you  can.  and  what 
remains  pour  into  the  bottom  of  the  dish. 
^Garnish  the  rim  with  sweetmeats. 

Or  /—Beat  the  whites  of  twelve  eggs 
with  a  little  sugar  and  currant  jelly — a 
teaspoonful  to  each  egg ;  whisk  it  light 
and  lay  it  on  a  custard  made  with  the 
yolks  of  the  eggs  and  three  pints  milk. 

1553.— WAGNEK'S  ICE  CKEAMS.  (These  re- 
ceipts are  furnished  by  Mr.  Wagner  of  New  York, 
expressly  for  this  work.) 

Vanilla  Ice  Cream. — One  quart  cream, 
eight  ounces  sugar,  crushed,  half  a  va- 
nilla bean.  Boil  half  the  cream  with  the 
sugar  and  bean,  then  add  the  rest  of  the 
cream,  and  cool  and  strain  it» 

Lemon  Ice  Cream. — One  quart  cream, 
eight  ounces  sugar,  one  lemon.  Grate 
the  lemon  rind  in  the  sugar;  this  ex- 
tracts the  oil ;  then  add  the  raw  cream 
and  strain  and  freeze  very  soon.  Lemon 
cream  sours  and  becomes  rancid  more 
quickly  than  any  other. 

Strawberry  Ice  Cream. — One  quart 
cream,  nine  ounces  sugar,  quarter  of  a 
pound  fresh  berries  or  more  if  desired. 
Wash  the  berries  in  the  sugar,  add  the 
cream,  and  strain  and  freeze  as  soon  as 
possible  to  prevent  curdling. 


Johnston's  Freezer. 
The  freezing  with  the  ordinary  freezer 


and  a  strong  arm  is  preferable  to  all  the 
machines  ever  invented.  Mr.  Wagner 
has  at  some  expense  tried  the  labor-sav- 
ing machines,  but  could  not  bring  up  the 
cream  to  his  standard,  and  has  now  aban- 
doned them  for  his  original  mode  of 
manufacture. 

A  great  variety  of  ice  creams  may  be 
made  with  different  kinds  of  fruit  in  the 
same  manner. 

Nock  Cream  may  be  made  by  mixing 
half  a  table-spoonful  of  flour  with  a  pint  of 
new  milk,  letting  it  simmer  five  minutes 
to  take  off  the  rawness  of  the  flour; 
beat  up  the  yolk  of  an  egg,  stir  it  into 
the  milk  while  boiling  and  run  it  through 
a  fine  sieve. 


Patent  Ice  Breaker. 

Rennet,  to  turn  milk,  may  be  pre- 
pared thus :  Take  out  the  stomach  of  a 
newly  killed  calf,  cover  it  inside  and  out- 
side with  salt,  after  it  is  cleared  of  the 
curd.  Drain  it  a  few  hours,  then  sew  it 
up  with  two  handfuls  of  salt  in  it,  or 
stretch  it  on  a  stick  well  salted  j  or  keep 
it  in  the  salt  and  soak  a  bit  of  it  when 
wanted,  in  fresh  water. 

1554.— BISCUIT  GLACE. 

Rub  some  pieces  of  loaf-sugar  on  the 
rind  of  four  lemons,  powder  it,  and  add 
half  a  pound  more,  moistened  with  the 
lemon-juice;  mix  it  with  a  quart  of 
cream,  and  add  six  beaten  eggs.  Grate 
some  stale  Naples  biscuit  or  sponge 
cakes,  and  stir  them  in  till  a  thick 
smooth  batter  is  formed.  Scald  it  in  a 


ICES JELLIES. 


491 


porcelain  stewpan;   put  it  in  a  freezer 
and  freeze  it. 

1555.-ALMOND  CKEAM  ICE. 

Take  six  ounces  of  bitter  almonds, 
(sweet  ones  will  not  do,)  blanch  them, 
and  pound  them  in  a  mortar,  adding  by 
degrees,  a  little  rose-water.  Boil  them 
gently  in  a  pint  of  cream  till  you  find 
that  it  is  highly  flavored  with  them. 
Then  pour  the  cream  into  a  bowl,  stir  in 
half  a  pound  of  powdered  loaf-sugar, 
cover  it,  and  set  it  away  to  cool  gradu- 
ally. When  it  is  cold,  strain  it,  and  then 
stir  it  gradually  and  hard  into  three 
pints  of  cream.  Put  it  into  the  freezer, 
and  proceed  as  directed.  Freeze  it  twice. 
It  will  be  found  very  fine. 

Send  rqund  always  with  ice  cream, 
sponge  cake :  afterwards  wine  and  cor- 
dials, or  liquors,  as  they  are  now  gene- 
rally called. 

1556.— WATEK  ICES. 

Are  made  with  the  juice  of  lemon, 
currant,  or  raspberry,  or  any  other  sort 
of  fruit,  being  gained  by  squeezing, 
sweetened,  and  mixed  with  water.  Rub 
some  fine  sugar  on  lemon  or  orange,  to 
give  the*  color  and  flavor,  then  squeeze 
the  juice  of  either  on  its  peel ;  add  water 
and  sugar  to  make  a  fine  sherbet,  and 
strain  it  before  it  be  put  into  the  icepot. 
If  orange,  the  greater  proportion  should 
be  of  the  juice. 

1557.— DEVONSHIKE  JUNKET. 

Turn  warm  milk  with  rennet;  add 
scalded  cream,  sugar,  and  cinnamon,  hang 
to  drain  in  a  net. 

Country  Syllabub  is  made  by  milking 
from  the  cow  into  a  bowl,  with  wine, 
sugar,  and  flavoring. 

1558.— KICE  FLUMMEKY. 

Boil  with  a  pint  of  new  milk  a  bit  of 
lemon-peel  and  cinnamon;  mix  with  a 
little  cold  milk  as  much  rice-flour  as 


will  make  the  whole  of  a  good  consist- 
ence;  sweeten,  and  add  a  spoonful  of 
peach-water  or  a  bitter  almond  beaten ; 
boil  it,  taking  care  it  does  not  burn  ;  pour 
it  into  a  shape  or  pint  basin,  taking  out 
the  spice.  When  cold,  turn  the  flum- 
mery into  a  dish,  and  serve  with  cream, 
milk,  or  custard,  round. 

As  to  the  chemical  compounds,  adver- 
tised for  the  making  of  jellies,  custards, 
and  blanc  mange,  they  are  worthless  in 
comparison  with  the  animal  substance  of 
meat,  eggs,  and  milk,  of  which  such  deli- 
cacies ought  to  be  formed ;  they  are  not 
cheaper  nor  so  nutritive,  neither -do  we 
know  of  what  they  are  composed. 

1559.-CALFS-FOOT  JELLY. 

It  is  a  complaint  amongst  even  experi- 
enced housekeepers  that  they  cannot 
feel  a  certainty  of  having  jelly  clear; 
but  by  strictly  attending  to  the  following 
method  for  making  calfs-foot  jelly,  they 
can  scarcely  fail  to  have  it  beautifully 
bright. 

Feet  for  all  jellies  are  boiled  so  long 
by  the  people  who  sell  them  that  they 
are  less  nutritious :  they  should  be  pro- 
cured from  the  butcher  and  only  scalded 
to  take  off  the  hair.  The  liquor  will 
require  greater  care  in  removing  the  fat ; 
but  the  jelly  will  be  far  stronger.  A 
little  isinglass,  half  an  ounce  to  a  quart 
of  stock,  may  be  used  to  secure  the  firm- 
j  particularly  in  summer.  In  peel- 


Felt  Jelly  Bag. 

ing  lemons,  care  should  be  taken  not  to 
cut  below  the  color,  as  by  so  doing  a 
great  deal  of  the  flavor  of  the  essential 
oil  is  lost,  and  the  white  part  gives  a 


±92 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


disagreeable  flavor.  The  stock  should 
be  measured  when  set  to  get  cold,  as  the 
exact  quantity  cannot  be  measured  when 
it  is  set. 

Jelly  is  equally  good  made  of  cow- 
heels  nicely  cleaned ;  they  bear  a  less 
price  than  those  of  calves,  and  make  a 
stronger- jelly. 

To  make  Jelly. — Boil  two  feet  in  two 
quarts  and  a  pint  of  water  till  the 
feet  are  broken  and  the  water  half 
wasted ;  strain  it,  and  the  following  day 
take  off  the  fat,  and  remove  the  jelly 
from  the  sediment ;  then  put  it  into  a 
saucepan,  with  a  laurel-leaf,  twenty  cori- 
ander-seeds, the  peel  of  two  lemons, 
sugar  to  palate,  half  a  pint  of  sherry, 
and  a  wine-glass  of  brandy.  When  the 
flavor  is  rich,  put  to  it  the  whites  of  five 
eggs  well  beaten,  and  their  shells  broken. 
The  ingredients  should  be  cold  when 
mixed  together,  to  ensure  the  jelly  beiag 
clear.  Set  the  saucepan  on  the  fire,  but 
do  not  stir  the  jelly  after  it  gets  hot. 
Let  it  boil  twenty  minutes  after  it  rises 
to  a  head ;  then  pour  it  through  a  flannel 
jelly-bag,  first  dipping  the  bag  in  hot 
water  to  prevent  waste,  and  squeezing 
it  quite  dry.  Run  the  jelly  through  and 
through  until  clear;  then  put  it  into 
glasses  or  moulds. 

The  following  mode  will  greatly  facili- 
tate the  clearing  of  jelly : 

When  the  mixture  has  boiled  twenty 
minutes,  throw  in  a  teacupful  of  cold 
water;  let  it  boil  five  minutes  longer; 
then  take  the  saucepan  off  the  fire,  cov- 
ered close,  and  let  it  stand  half  an  hour ; 
after  which  it  will  be  so  clear  as  to  need 
only  once  running  through  the  bag,  and 
much  waste  will  be  saved. 

Or  /—Boil  four  quarts  of  water,  with 
three  calf  s-feet,  or  two  cow-heels,  that 
have  been  only  scalded,  till  half  wasted : 
take  the  jelly  from  the  fat  and  sediment ; 
mix  with  it  the  juice  of  a  large  orange 
and  twelve  lemons,  the  peels  of  three 


lemons,  the  whites  and  shells  of  twelve 
eggs,  white  sug-ar  to  taste,  a  pint  of  wine, 
one  ounce  of  coriander-seeds,  two  bay- 
leaves,  a  bit  of  cinnamon,  and  six  cloves, 
all  bruised,  after  having  previously  mixed 
them  cold.  The  jelly  should  boil  fif- 
teen minutes  without  stirring ;  then  clear 
it  through  a  flannel  bag.  While  running 
take  a  little  jelly,  and  mix  with  a  teacup- 
ful of  water  in  which  a  bit  of  beet-root 
has  been  boiled,  and  run  it  through  the 
bag  when  all  the  rest  is  run  out ;  this  is 
to  garnish  the  other  jelly,  being  cooled 
on  a  plate  :  but  this  is  a  matter  of  choice. 
This  jelly  has  a  very  fine  >high  color  and 
flavor. 

Cheap  Cdlfs-foot  Jelly.— Take  one 
box  of  Cox's  sparkling  gelatine  and  pour 
on  a  pint  of  cold  water — let  it  stand  ten 
minutes,  then  add  a  pint  of  boiling 
water — one  pint  of  wine — half  a  pound 
of  sugar — the  juice  and  rind  of  two 
lemons — strain  it  through  a  napkin  into 
a  pitcher,  then  turn  it  into  the  moulds- 
Boil  in  the  water  a  stick  of  cinnamon, 
and  the  lemon-peels. 

1560.-GOOSEBEKKY-FOOL. 

Put  the  fruit  into  a  stone  jar,  with 
white  sugar ;  set  the  jar  on  a  stove,  or 
in  a  saucepan  of  water  over  the  fire ;  if 
the  former,  a  large  spoonful  of  water 
should  be  added  to  the  fruit.  When  it 
is  done  enough  to  pulp,  press  it  through 
a  colander;  have  ready  a  teacupful  of 
new  milk  and  the  same  quantity  of  raw 
cream  boiled  together,  and  left  to  be  cold ; 
then  sweeten  pretty  well  with  fine  sugar, 
and  mix  the  pulp  by  degrees  with  it. 

For  Orange-fool. — Mix  the  juice  of 
three  oranges,  three  eggs  well  beaten  a 
pint  of  cream,  a  little  nutmeg  and  cinna- 
mon, and  sweeten  to  your  taste.  Set  the 
whole  over  a  slow  fire,  and  stir  it  till  it 
becomes  as  thick  as  good  melted  butter, 
but  it  must  not  be  boiled ;  then  pour  it 
into  a  dish  for  eating:  cold. 


FROZEN   PUDDING MERINGUES. 


493 


For  Apple-fool. — Stew  apples  as  di- 
rected for  gooseberries,  and  then  peel  and 
pulp  them.  Prepare  the  milk,  &c.,  and 
mix  as  before. 

1561.— TO  MAKE  AN  ALMOND  POSSET. 

Grate  the  crumb  of  a  loaf  very  fine, 
pour  a  pint  of  boiling  milk  upon  it ;  let 
it  stand  two  or  three  hours ;  then  beat 
it  exceedingly  well ;  add  to  it  a  quart  of 
good  cream,  and  four  ounces  of  almonds, 
blanched  and  beaten  as  fine  as  possible, 
with  rosewater.  Mix  them  all  well  to- 
gether, set  them  over  a  very  slow  fire, 
and  boil  them  a  quarter  of  an  hour: 
then  set  it  to  cool,  and  beat  the  yolks  of 
four  eggs,  and  mix  them  with  your 
cream.  When  it  is  cold,  sweeten  it  to 
your  taste ;  then  stir  it  over  a  slow  fire, 
till  it  grows  prettj"  thick,  but  do  not  let 
it  boil,  or  it  will  curdle;  then  pour  it 
into  a  china  bowl.  When  you  send  it  to 
table,  put  in  three  macaroons  to  swim  on 
the  top. 

1562,-TAYLOR'S  PLUM   PUDDING    GLACE. 

(Furnished  for  this  work  by  Mr.  Taylor  of  New 
York.) 

One  quarter  of  a  pound  each  of  raisins, 
currants  and  citron,  one  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  chocolate,  all  boiled  together  in 
a  pint  of  Madeira  wine ;  mix  it  when  cold 
with  ice  cream,  so  as  to  make  sufficient 
for  an  ordinary  sized  pudding. 

1568.— TO  CLARIFY  ISINGLASS. 

Take  two  ounces  of  isinglass,  pour  on 
it  a  pint  of  spring  water  which  has  been 
mixed  with  a  teaspoonful  of  beaten  white 
of  egg,  and  a  table-lpoonful  of  lemon- 
juice.  Stir  them  thoroughly  together, 
and  let  them  heat  slowly,  taking  care 
the  isinglass  does  not  stick  to  the  bottom 
of  the  pan ;  simmer  a  few  minutes,  clear 
off  the  scum  till  no  more  appears  ;  strain 
it  through  muslin,  and  set  it  by  for  use  : 
it  will  be  transparent,  and  may  be  warm- 
ed and  mixed  with  the  clear  juice  of  any 
kind  of  fruit  already  sweetened,  or  with 


syrup  in  jellies,  flavored  with  liqueur. 
As  a  portion  of  the  isinglass  is  taken  up 
by  the  white  of  egg,  one  quarter  to  each 
ounce  should  be  allowed  for  this.  The 
finest  sort  of  isinglass,  which  should  be 
white  and  without  any  smell,  does  not 
require  to  be  clarified,  excepting  for  clear 
jellies;  for  all  other  purposes  it  is 
enough  to  dissolve  and  skim  it,  and  to  pass 
it  through  a  strainer.  A  great  variety 
of  excellent  jellies  may  be  made  with 
clarified  isinglass  and  the  juice  or  syrup 
of  almost  any  kind  of  fresh  fruit,  the 
color  of  which  is  best  preserved  by  mashr 
ing  it  lightly  and  strewing  pounded  sugar 
over  it,  letting  it  stand  three  or  four 
hours  for  the  juice  to  drain  off;  pour  a 
little  water  over,  and  use  the  juice  with- 
out boiling. 

1564.— FROZEN  PUDDING.  (Furnished  for  this 
work  by  Mr.  Sneckner,  whose  splendid  Con- 
fectionery Establishment  is  in  Union  Square, 
New  York.) 

Cut  up  about  half  a  pound  of  preserved 
fruits — such  as  peaches,  plums,  citron, 
raisins,  and  currants — add  half  a  pound 
of  Baker's  chocolate,  and  a  pint  of  best 
Madeira  wine  ;  simmer  on  the  fire  about 
fifteen  minutes,  and  when  perfectly  cold 
add  about  one  quart  of  vanilla  ice  cream. 
Freeze  it  in  a  two-quart  mould,  and  for 
the  sauce  whip  half  a  pint  of  sweet 
cream  flavored  with  vanilla. 
1565.— MERINGUES. 

Pound  and  sift  one  pound  of  lump 
sugar,  whisk  the  whites  of  twelve  eggs 
very  stiff,  throw  the  sugar  lightly  over, 
and  with  a  wooden  spoon  stir  gently, 
perfectly  mixing  the  sugar,  then  with  a 
table  or  dessert-spoon  lay  them  out 
upon  white  paper  in  the  shape  of  eggs, 
sift  powdered  sugar  thickly  over,  let  them 
remain  ten  minutes,  then  shake  off  the 
superfluous  sugar,  place  upon  boards 
which  you  have  wetted,  and  put  them 
in  a  slow  oven,  just  hot  enough  to  cause 
them  to  be  light  and  slightly  tinged; 
when  the  outside  becomes  quite  crisp, 


494: 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


take  off  the  papers,  by  turning  them 
topsy-turvy  and  lifting  the  papers  from 
them ;  dip  your  spoon  into  hot  water, 
and  with  it  clear  out  the  best  part  of 
the  mterior,  dust  them  with  powdered 
sugar,  lay  them  upon  a  baking-sheet,  and 
put  into  the  screen  to  dry  ;  they  may  be 
made  several  days  before  they  are  re- 
quired, if  put  away  in  a  dry  place  ;  to 
serve,  fill  them  with  whipped  cream, 
flavored  either  with  vanilla  or  orange- 
flower  (but  do  not  make  it  too  sweet), 
stick  two  together,  dress  in  pyramid  upon 
a  napkin,  and  serve.  Should  they  happen 
to  stick  to  the  papers,  moisten  the  papers 
with  a  paste-brush  and  water  underneath ; 
they  will  come  away  easier. 

1566.-MEEINGUE8  A  LA  CRfeME.  (Furnished 
by  Mr.  Delmonico  for  this  work.) 

Beat  to  a  froth  the  whites  of  six  eggs, 
to  this  add  three  ounces  of  finely  powder- 
ed sugar,  and  mix  up  well.  Then  lay 
sheets  of  paper  upon  tin  or  other  plates, 
place  some  spoonfuls  of  the  mixture  at 
intervals  of  half  an  inch,  and  powder 
them  with  fine  sugar.  Cook  them  at  a 
very  gentle  heat,  and,  when  done,  place 
them  in  a  warm  place,  in  order  to  keep 
them  dry.  You  may  dress  them  with 
whipped  cream  or  jelly,  according  to  your 
taste. 

1567.-NOUGAT.  * 

Cut  in  dice  or  in  fillets  a  pound  of 
blanched  sweet  almonds,  and  mix  with 
them  eight  or  six  bitter  almonds.  When 
they  are  cut  equally,  dry  them  in  the 
oven,  but  keep  them  white  ;  take  three 
or  four  spoonfuls  of  superfine  pounded 
sugar,  put  it  over  a  slow  fire  in  a  pre- 
serving pan  ;  when  the  sugar  is  melted 
without  having  used  any  water,  throw 
the  almonds  in,  but  take  care  that  they 
are  quite  dry.  Stir  the  sugar  with 
clean  woodon  skewer.  If  you  hear  a 
noise  when  you  throw  them  into  the 
sugar,  it  is  a  sign  that  they  are  dry 
enough.  Rub  a  mould  slightly  over  in- 


side with  oil  or  butter,  and  lay  some  al- 
monds in  beds  as  thinly  as  possible ; 
take  an  oiled. lemon  to  press  the  almonds 
with :  but  be  quick,  otherwise  the  almonds 
will  get -cool,  and  then  they  cannot  be 
worked  so  thin.  The  nougat  requires  to 
be  light,  to  be  made  to  perfection.  Some- 
times you  may  make  the  nougat  in  a 
mould  the  form  of  a  vase,  sometimes  in 
small  custard-moulds,  according  to  your 
choice ;  it  is  always  the  same  thing,  but 
you  may  cut  the  almonds  of  different 
shapes. 

Sometimes  make  a  pound  of  almonds 
into  nougat,  oil  a  baking-dish,  and  spread 
it  over  it,  oil  the  rolling-pin,  and  flatten 
the  nougat  with  it ;  if  it  will  spread 
easy,  put  it  in  the  oven  again  to  make  it 
soft ;  then  cut  it  into  small  long  squares, 
and  keep  it  in  a  very  dry  place,  to  pre- 
vent it  sticking  to  the  fingers.  The 
nougat  is  in  general  made  too  sweet,  and 
it  is  an  article  that  belongs  to  the  con- 
fectionery department. 


COFFEE,      TEA,      AND 
CHOCOLATE. 

1568.— COFFEE. 

There  are  several  ways  of  making 
coffee ;  and  every  housewife  generally 
has  her  favorite  mode.  The  French  make 
excellent  coffee  without  the  aid  of  eggs, 
isinglass,  or  any  foreign  article  to  settle 
it.  It  consists  of  a  sort  of  tin  coffee-pot, 
with  two  strainers.  You  remove  the 
first  strainer,  and  pour  some  boiling  water 
into  the  coffee-pot  through  the  second 
strainer.  Empty  out  the  water,  and  put 
in  a  sufficient  quantity  of  coffee  for  the 
family  over  the  under  strainer  and  press 
it  flat  with  a  little  tin  machine  (which 
comes  with  the  apparatus).  Put  in  the 
other  strainer,  and  pour  in  the  hot  water. 
The  coffee  will  drain  through  in  a  few 
moments. 


COFFEE. 


495 


I        PAEKER'S  PATENT  COFFEE-MAKER, 


Coffee  Canister. 

Another  mode  of  making  Coffee. — Take 
fresh  roasted  coffee,  allow  two  table- 
spoonfuls  for  each  person,  grind  it  just 
before  making,  put  it  in  a  basin  and  break 
into  it  an  egg,  yolk,  white,  shell,  and  all. 
Mix  it  up  with  the  spoon  to  the  consist- 
ence of  mortar,  put  warm,  not  boiling 
water,  in  the  coffee  pot ;  let  it  boil  up 
and  break  three  times ;  then  stand  a  few 
minutes  and  it  will  be  as  clear  as  amber, 
and  the  egg  will  give  it  a  rich  taste. 

Codfish  skin,  scraped,  washed,  and 
dried,  and  cut  in  pieces,  an  inch  square, 
may  be  used  to  settle  off,  or  isinglass. 
You  may  add  to  a  pint  of  coffee  a  pint 
of  boiling  milk,  and  heat  both  together 
before  serving. 


Sugar  Box. 
1569.— COFFEE,  TO  ROAST. 

Coffee  should  never  be  roasted  but 
when  you  are  going  to  use  it,  and  then 
it  should  be  watched  with  the  greatest 
care,  and  made  of  a  gold  color ;  mind 
and  do  not  burn  it,  for  a  few  grains  burnt 
would  communicate  a  bitter  taste  to  the 
whole ;  it  is  the  best  way  to  roast  it  in 
a  roaster  over  a  charcoal  fire,  which  turns 
with  the  hand,  as  by  that  means  it  will 
not  be  forgotten. 


Figure  1. 

By  this  machine,  the  extract  of  coffee 
is  prepared  in  a  very  easy  and  expedi- 
tious manner.  When  the  extract  is 
made,  it  may  be  diluted  with  boiling 
water  to  suit  the  palate ;  or  hot  milk 
may  be  used  instead  of  water,  making 
cafe  au  lait. 

Figure  1  represents  the  external  ap- 
pearance of  the  apparatus,  and  figure  2 
is  a  section  to  show  its  construction  and 
mode  of  action,  a  a  is  a  box  of  metal  to 
hold  the  coffee,  having  its  bottom  and 
top  lid  perforated  with  numerous  small 
holes.  From  the  lower  part  of  the  box 
proceeds  a  funnel,  that  reaches  nearly  to 
the  bottom  of  an  outside  vessel  or  cylin- 
der of  metal,  e  e,  which  is  divided  into 
two  parts  interiorly  by  a  partition,  &  &, 
and  on  the  middle  of  this  partition  is 
fixed  a  tube,  into  which  the  neck  of  the 
funnel  is  put,  and  on  which  the  box  with 
the  coffee  rests.  The  exterior  vessel  is 
covered  with  a  convex  lid,  d.  The  whole 
is  placed  on  a  stand,  in  which  is  a-  spirit- 
lamp,  f,  having  a  sliding  tube,  ^,  so  ar- 
ranged that  the  heat  can  be  increased  or 
diminished  at  pleasure. 


496 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


Having  taken  out  the  box,  with  its 
funnels,  it  is  filled  with  coffee,  and  boil- 
ing water  is  poured  down  the  tube  in 
the  interior ;  this  will  pass  into  the  di- 
vision at  the  lower  part,  e  e ;  then  the 
box  with  the  coffee  is  to  be  replaced,  and 
the  lamp  lighted.  The  steam  which  is 
formed  forces  the  water  into  e  e  to  rise 
through  the  tube,  and  passes  upward 
through  the  perforated  bottom  of  the 
box  into  the  coffee,  which  is  seen  rising 
as  a  dark  fluid  through  the  perforated 


1  piling  up  the  ground  coffee  in  the  centre, 
and  then  striking  it  off  with  a  knife,  as 
is  done  with  corn  in  a  bushel-measure. 
The  time  for  making  the  extract  of  coffee, 
where  hot  water  is  used,  should  never 
exceed  five  minutes.  If  it  takes  longer, 
it  can  arise  only  from  the  coffee  being 
ground  too  finely  ;  and  this  not  only  in- 
creases the  expenditure  of  spirits  of  wine 
and  of  time,  but  likewise  injures  the 
quality  of  the  extract.  The  remedy  is, 
to  grind  the  coffee  coarser  and  coarser, 
until  the  operation,  after  the  water  in 
the  boiler  boils,  lasts  only  three  minutes. 
The  extract  of  coffee  prepared  by  this 
apparatus  contains  all  the  arorna  and 
other  fine  qualities  of  the  coffee. 


Figure  2. 

lid  of  a  #,  and  flowing  over  into  the  up- 
per division,  &  b.  The  passage  of  the 
water  should  be  permitted  to  continue 
till  it  becomes  pale-colored^  and  has  con- 
sequently extracted  all  the  goodness  of 
the  coffee,  when  the  lamp  should  be  ex- 
tinguished, and  the  lid  put  on.  The  ex- 
tract is  then  drawn  off  by  means  of  the 
faucet. 

After  making  the  extract,  it  is  best 
not  to  drain  off  the  liquid  remaining 
within  the  rim  of  the  cover,  but  to  let 
it  return  into  the  boiler,  which  it  will  do 
as  soon  as  the  lamp  is  extinguished.— 
Thus,  any  sediment  will  return  with  it. 

The  filling  of  the  box  is  best  done  by 


TEA. 

Tastes  differ  regarding  the  flavor  of 
various  sorts  of  tea:  some  preferring  all 
black;  others,  all  green;  and  many,  a 
mixture  of  both  in  different  quantities ; 
though  most  persons — when  not  fearful 


Tea  Canister. 

of  their  nerves — agree  that  fine  Hyson 
is  the  best.    A  good  mixture,  in  point  of 


CHOCOLATE. 


497 


flavor,  we  know  to  be — two-fifths  black, 
two -fifths  green,  and  one-fifth  gunpow- 
der: all  being,  of  course,  of  superior 
quality. 

Presuming  all  ladies  to  be  intimately 
acquainted  with  the  mode  of  making  tea, 
yet  to  some,  a  few  hints  on  the  subject 
may  not  perhaps  be  found  objectionable. 

Boiling  water  should  alone  be  used. 

Metal  tea-pots  in  preference  to  earth- 
enware. They  retain  heat  better. 

Silver  is  better  than  either. 


Water  Urn. 

A  spoonful  of  tea  for  each  person. 
Heat  the  tea-pot  first  with  some  boiling 
water,  then  pour  that  into  the  tea-cups 
to  warm  them;  put  in  your  tea,  and 
pour  enough  water  upon  the  tea  to  cover 
it;  let  it  stand  three  or  four  minutes, 
then  nearly  fill  the  tea-pot  with  water ; 
let  it  stand  a  few  minutes,  and  pour  out. 

CHOCOLATE, 

If  made  thin,  is  not  worth  drinking ; 
and  that  which  is  commonly  sold  is  a 
compound  of  flour,  or  some  farinaceous 
substance,  and  coarse  sugar,  with  a  very 
moderate  quantity  of  real  cocoa,  and  that 
of  the  most  inferior  quality,  colored  with 
Venetian  red  and  brown  ochre. 

Chocolate  forms  the  common  breakfast 
throughout  Spain,  and  is  there  made  by 
merely  chipping  a  portion  of  the  cake 
into  which  it  is  formed  from  the  cocoa, 


leaving  the  chips  in  water  for  a  whole 
night  to  soften.  It  may  then  be  slowly 
warmed,  along  with  either  water  oi 
milk,  working  it  all  the  time  with  the 
mill,  which  is  a  small  movable  pole 
passed  through  the  lid  of  a  chocolate- 
pot,  and  furnished  with  a  headpiece,  in 
order  to  mix  the  chocolate  equally,  by 
turning  the  mill  rapidly  between  the 
hands  and  without  intermission,  thus  to 
prevent  it  from  becoming  clotty  ;  care, 
however,  should  be  taken  not  to  let  it 
~boil ;  for,  in  that  case,  the  vegetable  oil 
which  is  contained  in  the  nut  will  be  ex- 
tracted from  it  and  appear  on  the  sur- 
face. The  flavor  is  better  retained  by 
making  it  in  water  than  milk. 

It  is  always  made  very  thick,  so  that 
a  small  spoon  will  nearly  stand  upright 
in  it,  and  nothing  eaten  with  it  but  a 
rusk,  or  dry  toast :  after  which  there  is 
usually  taken  a  draught  of  cold  spring 
water. 

The  usual  mode  of  making  it  here  is, 
to  boil  a  pint  of  water  and  a  pint  of  milk 
in  the  pot,  put  to  it  a  part  of  a  cake  of 
chocolate  cut  into  very  small  slices,  mill 
it  off  the  fire  till  quite  melted,  then  put 
it  on  a  gentle  fire  till  it  nearly  boils, 
milling  it  all  the  time.  Sweeten  to 
taste. 

1570.— COCOA. 

An  excellent  breakfast  beverage  may 
be  made  by  simply  pounding  the  nut — 
which  is  the  substance  of  chocolate — and 
boiling  it  in  the  same  manner  in  either 
water  or  milk. 

Cocoa  /Shells  or  Nibs,  are  the  thin 
coverings  of  the  cocoa  kernel,  and  can 
only  be  had  at  some  chocolate  manufac- 
tory, where  they  can  be  bought  at  a  very 
low  price,  and  form  a  light  food  for  an 
invalid,  when  taken  warm. 

Soak  them  in  water  during  the  whole 
night,  and  then  boil  them  in  the  same  water 
until  it  is  reduced  to  half  the  quantity : 


498 


THE   PRACTICAL    HOUSEKEEPER. 


they  should  boil  two  hours,  and  should 
then  be  mixed  up  with  milk. 

1571.— CHOCOLATE  DROPS. 
Take  one  pound  and  a  half  of  choco- 
late, put  it  on  a  pewter  plate  and  put  it 
in  the  oven  just  to  warm  the  chocolate, 
then  put  it  into  a  copper  stewpan  with 
three-quarters  of  a  pound  of  powdered 
sugar  ;  mix  it  well  over  the  fire,  take  it 
off.  and  roll  it  in  pieces  the  size  of  small 
marbles,  put  them  on  white  paper,  and 
when  they  are  all  on,  take  the ,  sheets  of 
paper  by  each  corner  and  lift  it  up  and 
down,  so  that  the  paper  may  touch  the 
table  each  time,  and  by  that  means  you 
will  see  the  drops  come  quite  fat,  about 
the  size  of  a  sixpence  j  put  some  sugar 
nonpareils  over  them,  and'  cover  all  that 
are  on  the  paper,  then  shake  them  off, 
and  you  will  see  all  the  chocolate  drops 
are  covered  with  the  sugar  nonpareils ; 
let  them  stand  till  cold  and  they  will 
come  off  well,  and  then  put  them  in  a 
box  prepared. 

1572.— TEA  CREAM. 

Infuse  an  ounce  of  the  best  green  tea 
in  half  a  pint  of  boiling  rnilk,  simmer  it 
five  minutes,  then  strain  it  through  a 
tammy,  pressing  the  leaves  well ;  boil  a 
pint  of  rich  cream,  add  to  it  the  yolks 
of  four  eggs  beaten,  and  sufficient  quan- 
tity of  clarified  sugar ;  pour  this  whilst 
hot  to  the  milk,  stir  them  together  well, 
put  in  as  much  clarified  isinglass  as  will 
set  it,  and  pour  the  cream  into  the  mould 
or  glasses ;  place  them  on  ice ;  when  per- 
fectly cold,  turn  it  out  of  the  mould  or 
serve  in  the  glasses. 


PKESEKYES,  &c. 

PRESEKVES  should  be  kept  carefully 
from  the  air,  and  in  a  very  dry  place. 
Unlews  they  have  a  very  small  propor- 


tion of  sugar,  a  warm  one  does  not  hurt ; 
but  when  not  properly  boiled,  heat  makes 
them  ferment,  and  damp  causes  them  to 
grow  mouldy.  They  should  be  looked 
at  two  or  three  times  in  the  first  two 
months,  that  they  may  be  gently  boiled 
again  if  not  likely  to  keep.  Paste  the 
edge  of  the  outer  paper,  as  it  keeps  out 
the  air  better  than  a  string ;  put  writing- 
paper  over  the  fruit. 

Dried  sweetmeats,  cakes,  &c.,  should 
be  kept  in  tin  boxes,  between  layers  of 
white  paper,  in  a  very  dry  but  not  hot 
room. 

All  fruits  for  preserving  should  be 
gathered  in  dry  weather ;  but  as  this  is 
not  always  practicable,  much  incon- 
venience may  be  obviated  by  boiling  the 
fruit  for  jellies  and  jams  long  before  the 
sugar  is  added.  By  so  doing,  the  watery 
particles  will  evaporate,  and  the  preserve 
will  be  better  flavored,  by  the  sugar  not 
being  too  long  on  the  fire. 

Pans  of  copper  or  bell-metal  are  the 
proper  utensils  for  preserving  fruit :  when 
used,  they  must  be  scoured  bright  with 
sand.  Tinned  pans  turn  and  destroy  the 
color  of  the  fruit  that  is  put  into  them. 

1578.— TO  PEESERVE  WATERMELON  RIND. 

Pare  off  the  outer  skin  and  cut  the 
rind  into  shapes  :  green  them  by  simmer- 
ing with  vine  leaves  and  a  little  alum, 
and  allow  a  pound  and  a  quarter  of  sugar 
to  each  pound.  Make  the  syrup  and  clarify 
it  with  white  of  egg,  and  simmer  the 
melon  rind  till  done  through  and  trans- 
parent. Boil  down  the  syrup  afterwards, 
and  pour  it  over  the  preserves. 

Chips  of  pumpkin  or  muskmelon  rind, 
cut  thin,  are  often  made  into  preserves, 
— adding  the  juice  and  grated  rind  of 
lemons,  which  much  improves  the  syrup. 

Citrons  may  be  preserved  in  the  same 
manner,  first  paring  off  the  outer  skin, 
and  cutting  them  into  quarters.  Also 
green  limes. 


PRESERVES. 


499 


15T4— APPLES. 

Weigh  equal  quantities  of  good  brown 
sugar  and  of  apples  ;  peel  and  core  them. 
Boil  the  sugar,  allowing  to  every  three 
pounds  a  pint  of  water  ;  skim  it  well,  and 
boil  it  pretty  thick ;  then  add  the  apples, 
the  peel  of  one  or  two  lemons,  and  two 
or  three  pieces  of  white  ginger  ;  boil  till 
the  apples  look  clear  and  yellow.  This 
preserve  will  keep  for  years. 

1575.— PINE-APPLES. 

Take  those  that  are  ripe,  and  perfectly 
fresh — pare  off  the  rind,  and  cut  the 
apples  in  slices  an  inch  thick.  Powder 
the  same  weight  of  white  sugar  as  you 
have  pine  apples — lay  the  pine-apples  in 
a  deep  dish,  and  sprinkle  part  of  the 
powdered  sugar  between  each  layer  of 
apples.  Reserve  about  half  of  the  sugar. 
Let  the  apples  remain  till  the  succeeding 
day — then  turn  the  syrup  from  them, 
and  mix  it  with  the  reserved  sugar,  and 
half  a  pint  of  water,  for  three  or  four 
pounds  of  pine  apple.  Boil  the  syrup, 
take  it  from  the  fire,  and  when  cool,  put 
in  the  apples,  simmer  them  gently  till 
tender,  let  them  remain  in  a  deep  dish 
for  several  days  ;  they  should  be  covered 
up  tight,  and  kept  in  a  cool  place.  When- 
ever there  is  any  appearance  of  fermen- 
tation, turn  the  syrup  from  them,  scald 
it,  and  turn  it  back  hot  upon  the  pine- 
apples. Keep  them  in  glass  or  china 
jars,  covered  tight,  and  in  a  cool  place. 

1576.— TAIT  PINE-APPLE. 

To  fourteen  pounds  of  grated  pine- 
apple add  half  an  ounce  of  grated  alum, 
and  mix  thoroughly.  Boil  seven  pounds 
white  sugar  in  as  little  water  as  possible, 
skimming  it  until  perfectly  clear.  Pour 
the  boiling  sugar  over  the  fruit,  and  put 
it  into  empty  champagne  bottles ;  stand 
the  bottles  in  boiling  water  till  the  water 
begins  to  cool ;  then  cork  and  seal  them 
closely. 


1577.— CEAB-APPLES. 

Make  a  syrup,  allowing  the  same 
weight  of  sugar  as  apples.  Let  it  cool, 
then  put  in  the  apples,  a  few  at  once,  so 
that  they  will  not  crowd,  and  break  to 
pieces.  Boil  them  till  they  begin  to 
break,  then  take  them  out  of  the  kettle. 
Boil  the  syrup  in  the  course  of  three  or 
four  days,  and  turn  it  while  hot  upon 
the  apples.  This  continue  to  do  at  in- 
tervals of  two  or  three  days,  till  the 
apples  appear  to  be  thoroughly  preserved. 

1578.— GENERAL  DIRECTIONS  FOE  MAKING 
SWEETMEATS  AND  JELLIES. 

In  preparing  sugar  for  sweetmeats,  let 
it  be  entirely  dissolved  before  you  put  it 
on  the  fire.  If  you  dissolve  it  in  water, 
allow  about  half  a  pint  of  water  to  a 
pound  of  sugar.  If  you  boil  the  sugar 
before  you  add  the  fruit  to  it,  it  will  be 
improved  in  clearness  by  passing  it 
through  a  flannel  bag.  Skim  off  the 
brown  scum  all  the  time  it  is  boiling.  If 
sweetmeats  are  boiled  too  long,  they  lose 
their  flavor  and  become  of  a  dark  color. 
If  boiled  too  short  a  time  they  will  not 
keep  well.  You  may  ascertain  when 
jelly  is  done,  by  dropping  a  small  spoon- 
ful into  a  glass  of  water.  If  it  spreads 
and  mixes  with  the  water,  it  requires 
more  boiling.  If  it  sinks  in  a  lump  to 
the  bottom,  it  is  sufficiently  done.  This 
trial  must  be  made  after  the  jelly  is  cold. 
Raspberry  jelly  requires  more  boiling 
than  any  other  sort.  Black  currant 
jelly  less.  Keep  your  sweetmeats  in 
glass  jars. 

1579.-TO  PEESEEVE  QUINCES. 

Ripe  quinces  pare  and  cut  in  slices  an 
inch  thick — take  out  the  cores  carefully, 
so  as  to  have  the  slices  in  the  form  of  a 
ring.  Allow  a  pound  of  white  sugar  for 
each  pound — dissolve  it  in  cold  water, 
having  a  quart  of  the  latter  to  a  pound 
of  sugar,  then  put  in  the  sliced  quinces, 


500 


THE  PRACTICAL  HOUSEKEEPER. 


and  let  them  soak  in  it  ten  or  twelve 
hours.  Put  them  in  a  preserving  kettle, 
and  put  it  on  a  moderate  fire — cover  them 
over,  and  let  the  quinces  boil  gently— 
there  should  be  more  than  enough  syrup 
to  cover  the  quinces.  When  a  broom 
bplinter  will  go  through  them  easily, 
take  them  from  the  fire,  and  turn  them 
out.  In  the  course  of  a  week  turn  the 
syrup  from  them,  and  boil  it  down,  so 
that  there  will  be  just  enough  to  coyer 
the  fruit.  When  not  very  ripe,  pare  and 
cut  the  quinces  either  in  rings  or  quar- 
ters, take  out  the  cores,  and  boil  the 
quinces  in  fair  water,  till  they  begin  to 
grow  tender — take  them  up,  and  strain 
the  water  in  which  they  are  boiled — put 
in  either  brown  or  white  sugar — add  a 
little  cold  water.  When  lukewarm,  put 
in  the  whites  of  eggs  and  clarify  it — let 
it  cool,  then  put  in  the  quinces,  and  boil 
them  slowly  for  half  an  hour.  Keep 
them  covered  over  while  boiling,  if  you 
wish  to  have  them  of  a  light  color.  Turn 
them  out  into  pots  as  soon  as  preserved, 
and  set  them  away  in  a  cool  place.  Look 
at  them  in  the  course  of  a  week  to  see  if 
they  have  fermented — if  so,  turn  the 
syrup  from  them,  boil  it.  and  turn  it 
back  while  hot.  The  parings  and  cores 
of  the  quinces  can  be  used  for  marmal- 
ade, with  a  few  whole  ones.  Some  people 
prefer  to  preserve  the  quinces  with  the 
cores  in,  but  the  syrup  will  not  look 
clear.  The  following  is  a  cheap  method 
of  preserving  quinces,  and  answers  very 
well  for  common  use :  Pare,  halve,  and 
take  out  the  cores  of  the  quinces,  and 
boil  the  parings  in  new  cider  till  soft. 
Strain  the  cider,  and  for  five  pounds  of 
quinces  put  in  a  pound  of  brown  sugar, 
a  quart  of  molasses,  the  beaten  white  of 
an  egg — clarify  it,  then  put  in  the  quinces. 
There  should  be  rather  more  than  enough 
cider  to  cover  the  quinces,  as  it  wastes  a 
good  deal  while  the  quinces  are  boiling. 
The  peel  of  an  orange  cut  in  small  pieces, 


and  boiled  with  them,  gives  the  quinoes 
a  fine  flavor. 

Quince  Marmalade. — Gather  the  fruit 
when  fully  ripe,  and  of  a  fine  yellow ; 
pare,  quarter,  and  core  it.  Put  the 
quinces  into  a  saucepan  with  a  little 
water,  set  them  on  the  fire  until  they  are 
quite  soft ;  then  take  them  out,  and  lay 
them  on  a  sieve  to  drain ;  rub  them 
through,  and  put  to  each  pound  of  the 
strained  quinces  a  pound  of  brown  sugar. 
Set  it  on  a  few  coals,  and  let  it  stew 
slowly,  stirring  it  constantly.  When  it 
has  stewed  an  hour,  take  a  little  of  it 
out,  let  it  get  cold — if  it  then  cuts 
smooth,  it  is  sufficiently  stewed. 

Quince  Jelly. — Halve  the  quinces,  and 
take  out  the  cores.  Boil  the  quinces  till 
very  soft  in  clear  water,  mash  them,  and 
let  them  drain  through  a  flannel  bag, 
without  squeezing  them.  Put  to  the 
quince  liquor,  when  drained  through  the 
bag,  white  sugar  in  the  proportion  of  a 
pound  to  a  pint  of  liquor.  Add  the 
whites  of  eggs,  and  clarify  it.  When 
clear,  boil  it  on  a  moderate  fire  till  it 
becomes  a  thick  jelly.  Fill  glasses  with 
the  jelly,  and  cover  them  tight.  The 
quince  pulp  that  remains  in  the  jelly-bag 
can  be  made  into  marmalade. 

1580.— TO  PKESEEVE   PEACHES,  APRICOTS, 
NECTARINES,  AND  PLUMS. 

September  is  the  best  month  for 
peaches,  as  they  are  then  harder  and 
larger.  Weigh  the  peaches,  put  them 
into  a  preserving-pan  full  of  cold  water, 
with  a  slice  or  two  of  lemon;  set  them 
on  a  slow  fire,  have  ready  a  sieve  and 
a  napkin,  and  be  careful  not  to  do  them 
too  much. 

Some  of  the  peaches  will  be  ready 
sooner  than  others ;  when  they  begin  to 
be  soft  they  are  done  enough  ;  take  them 
out  as  they  become  soft,  and  drain  them 
on  a  sieve,  and  let  them  stand  until  cold ; 
then  make  a  syrup,  to  every  pound  of 


PRESERVES. 


501 


peaches  allowing  a  pound  of  loaf-sugar — 
use  some  of  the  water  in  which  the 
peaches  were  boiled  for  the  syrup.  Take 
the  kernels  of  half  a  dozen  peaches, 
throw  them  into  hot  water  and  remove 
their  skins,  then  boil  them  with  the 
syrup  you  are  making.  Put  the  peaches 
into  jars  and  glasses,  and  pour  the  syrup 
over  them. 

Cut  several  round  pieces  of  paper,  dip 
them  in  brandy,  lay  them  over  the  pre- 
serves, and  tie  up  the  jars. 

Apricots,  nectarines,  and  plums,  may 
be  preserved  in  the  same  manner. 

This  way  of  preserving  peaches  is 
much  preferable  to  cutting  them  up  and 
then  preserving  them.  The  fruit  should 
not  be  permitted  to  boil  until  it  becomes 
shrivelled. 

1581.— BEANDT  PEACHES. 

To  each  pound  of  peaches  take  three- 
quarters  of  a  pound  of  white  sugar. 
Make  a  syrup,  in  half  of  which  boil  the 
fruit,  having  first  taken  off  the  skin  by 
scalding  them  in  hot  lye,  which  is  made 
by  dissolving  as  much  salsoda  in  boiling 
water  as  will  make  it  strong  enough  to 
bear  an.pgg. 

The  peaches  are  to  be  taken  out  of  the 
lye  as  soon  as  Ahe  skin  begins  to  crack, 
and  thrown  into  cold  water,  when  they 
can  be  rubbed  quite  clean  with  a  coarse 
cloth.  Rinse  them  in  fresh  water,  wrap 
them  in  a  cloth  to  drain,  and  keep  them 
covered,  as  on  this  depends  their  color. 

When  the  boiled  peaches  are  cold,  add 
to  the  remainder  of  the  syrup  the  same 
quantity  of  brandy.  Put  away  the 
peaches  in  it,  and  cover  tightly. 

1582.— GREEN  GAGES. 

Allow  equal  weights  of  sugar  and 
gages.  Make  a  syrup  of  white  sugar, 
and  just  water  enough  to  cover  the 
plums.  Boil  the  plums  slowly  in  the 
syrup  ten  minutes — turn  them  into  a 
j  and  let  them  remain  four  or  five 
32 


days,  then  boil  them  again,  till  the  syrup 

•  appears  to  have  entered  the  plums.     Put 

;  them  into  a  china  jar,  and  in  the  course 

of  a  week  turn  the  syrup  from  them, 

scald  it,  and  turn  it  over  them  hot. 

1583.— TO  PRESERVE  PEARS. 

Pare  them  very  thin,  and  simmer  them 
in  a  thin  syrup,  allowing  only  one-quar- 
ter of  a  pound  of  sugar  to  a  pound  of 
pears.  Let  them  lie  for  two  days,  add 
another  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar  to 
each  pound  of  pears,  and  simmer  them 
again.  Let  them  lie  all  night,  or  longer 
if  you  please,  then  simmer  them  once 
more,  this  time  adding  half  a  pound  of 
sugar  to  each  pound  of  pears,  with  the 
juice  of  half  a  lemon  to  every  two  pounds 
of  fruit.  A»  small  portion  of  the  lemon- 
peel  may  also  be  used.  The  fruit  may 
then  be  drained  and  dried  in  the  sun,  so 
that  they  may  be  used  dry ;  or  they  may 
be  poured  into  the  jars  with  the  syrup 
over  them. 

Another  mode  of  preserving  pears, 
and  a  less  troublesome  one,  is  to  pare, 
quarter  and  core  the  pears,  boil  them  for 
an  hour  in  as  much  water  as  will  cover 
them,  then  add  to  every  pound  of  pears 
a  pound  of  white  sugar  and  the  juice  of 
half  a  lemon,  boil  the  whole  and  skim  it. 
When  the  pears  are  soft,  pour  them  into 
jars  and  the  syrup  over  them  ;  tie  up  the 
jars. 

This  is  a  much  more  expeditious  way 

I  of  preserving  the  pears,  and  perhaps  the 

I  best  for  large  families,  where  sweetmeats 

are  in  daily  use ;  but  the  fruit  itself  does 

not  look  as  clear  and  beautiful  as  when 

preserved  by  the  former  method. 

Pear  Marmalade  — Boil  the  pears  with 
the  skins  on.  When  soft,  rub  them 
through  a  sieve,  and  put  to  each  pound 
of  pulp  three-quarters  of  a  pound  of 
brown  sugar.  Stew  it  over  a  slow  fire 
!  till  it  becomes  a  thick  jelly.  It  should 
be  stirred  constantly. 


502 


THE   PEACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPEK. 


Baked  Pears.— Take  half  a  dozen  fine 
pears ;  peel,  cut  them  in  halves,  and  take 
out  the  cores  ;  put  them  into  a  pan  with 
half  a  pound  of  sugar,  and  some  water. 
Set  them  in  a  moderate  oven  till  tender, 
then  put  them  on  a  slow  fire  to  stew 
gently  ;  add  grated  lemon-peel,  and  more 
sugar,  if  necessary.  They  will  be  suffi- 
ciently red. 

1584.— GOOSEBEEEIES. 

The  tops  and  tails  being  removed  from 
the  gooseberries,  allow  an  equal  quantity 
of  finely  pounded  loaf-sugar,  and  put  a 
layer  of  each  alternately  into  a  large 
deep  jar ;  pour  into  it  as  much  dripped 
currant-juice,  either  red  or  white,  as  will 
dissolve  the  sugar,  adding  its  weight  in 
sugar ;  the  following  day  put  all  into  a 
preserving-pan  and  boil  it. 

Gooseberry  Jam.— Take  what  quantity 
you  please  of  red,  rough,  ripe  gooseber- 
ries ;  take  half  their  quantity  of  lump 
sugar ;  break  them  well,  and  boil  them 
together  for  half  an  hour  or  more,  if 
necessary.  Put  it  into  pots  and  cover 
with  paper. 

1585.— CTJBEANT  JELLY,  (EED). 

Strip  off  the  currants,  put  them  in  a 
jar,  set  the  jar  in  a  kettle  of  hot  water, 
let  it  boil  an  hour,  then  throw  the  cur- 
rants and  juice  into  a  fine  lawn  sieve, 
press  out  all  the  juice,  and  to  every  pint 
of  juice  put  a  pound  of  fine^  sugar;  put 
them  in  a  preserving-pan,  set  it  over  a 
charcoal  fire  and  keep  it  stirring  till  it  is 
in  a  jelly,  which  you  will  know  by  tak- 
ing a  little  out  to  cool;  be  careful  to 
take  off  the  scum  as  it  rises,  and  when 
it  is  jellied  and  very  clear  pour  it  into 
glasses ;  when  cold,  cut  round  pieces  of 
paper  that  will  just  cover  the  jelly,  dip- 
ped in  brandy,  put  white  paper  over  the 
glasses,  twisting  round  the  top.  Make 
black  currant  jelly  the  same  way,  using 
coarse  sugar. 


1586.— CLEAE  APPLE  JELLY. 

Pare  and  cut  up  five  dozen  large  juicy, 
acid  apples ;  put  them  in  a  pan  with  as 
much  water  as  will  cover  them,  let  them 
3oil  gently  until  soft,  let  them  get  cold, 
then  strain  them  through  a  jelly  bag,  put 
the  juice  in  your  preserving  pan.  and  to 
each  pint  of  juice  put  one  pound  of  fine 
sugar  and  the  peel  of  two  lemons,  then 
boil  it  until  it  is  reduced  to  the  stiffness 
of  calves'-foot  jelly,  skim  it  well,  add  the 
nice  of  a  lemon ;  it  should  be  made  in 
September,  the  flavor  of  the  apple  is  better. 

Jelly  may  be  made  from  apricots, 
raspberries,  grapes,  and  other  fruits, 
using  a  pound  of  sugar  for  each  pint  of 
uice,  and  following  the  above  directions. 

1587.— COLOBING  FOE  JELLIE8,  ETC. 

For  a  beautiful  red,  boil  fifteen  grains 
of  cochineal  in  the  finest  powder,  with  a 
drachm  and  a  half  of  cream  of  tartar  in 
half  a  pint  of  water,  very  slowly,  half 
an  hour ;  add  in  boiling  a  bit  of  alum, 
the  size  of  a  pea,  or  use  beet-root  sliced, 
and  some  liquor  poured  over. 

For  white,  use  almonds  finely  powder- 
ed, with  a  little  drop  of  water,  or  use 
ream. 

For  yellow,  yolks  of  eggs,  or  a  bit 
of  saffron  steeped  in  the  liquor  and 
squeezed. 

For  green,  pound  spinach  leaves  or 
beet  leaves,  express  the  juice,  and  boil  a 
teacupful  in  a  saucepan  of  water  to  take 
off  the  rawness. 

1588.— FEOSTED  FEUIT. 

Pick  out  the  finest  cherries,  plums, 
apricots,  grapes,  or  small  pears — leave  on 
their  stalks.  Beat  the  whites  of  three 
eggs  to  a  stiff  froth — drain  them,  and 
beat  the  part  that  drips  off  again.  Lay 
the  fruit  in  the  beaten  egg  with  the  stalks 
upward — select  them  out  one  by  one, 
and  dip  them  into  a  cup  of  finely  pow- 
dered sugar.  Cover  a  pan  with  a  sheet 


PKESERVES. 


503 


of  fine  paper,  place  the  fruit  inside  of  it, 
and  set  it  in  an  oven  that  is  cooling. 
When  the  icing  on  the  fruit  becomes  firm 
pile  them  on  a  dish  and  set  them  in  a 
cool  place. 

1589.— GEAPES  IN  BEANDY. 

Take  some  close  bunches,  black  or 
white,  not  over-ripe,  and  lay  them  in  a 
jar.  Put  a  good  quantity  of  pounded 
white  sugar  upon  them,  and  fill  up  the 
jar  with  brandy ;  tie  them  close  down 
with  a  bladder,  and  keep  in  a  dry  place. 
Each  grape  should  be  pricked  thrice. 

They  make  a  beautiful  middle  dish  in 
a  winter  dessert. 

1590.— CEANBEEEY  JELLY. 

Make  a  very  strong  isinglass  jelly. 
When  cold,  mix  it  wi^h  a  double  quan- 
tity of  cranberry  juice  pressed,  sweeten 
it  with  loaf  sugar,  and  boil  it  up  j  then 
strain  it  into  a  shape. 

1591.— TO  PEESERVE  STEAWBEEEIES, 

EASPBEEEIES,  AND  BLACK- 

BEEEIES,  WHOLE. 

The  strawberries  should  be  gathered 
fresh  from  the  vines.  Select  the  largest, 
and  those  perfectly  unbroken.  Mash 
up  the  others  and  boil  them  for  a  quarter 
of  an  hour  without  any  water — strain 
them  through  a  fine  jelly-bag. 

Measure  the  juice,  and  allow  a  pound 
of  loaf  sugar,  to  every  quart  of  straw- 
berry juice. 

When  you  make  the  syrup  allow  a 
pint  of  spring  water  to  every  two  pounds 
of  sugar — skim  the  syrup  thoroughly. 
When  the  scum  ceases  to  rise  pour  in 
the  juice  of  the  berries  and  boil  it 
from  five  to  fifteen  minutes,  or  until  the 
syrup  will  hang  in  drops  from  a  spoon. 

Pour  the  syrup  into  glass  jars  or  tum- 
blers, and  lifting  the  whole  strawberries 
with  a  spoon,  put  as  many  of  them  in 
each  jar  as  it  will  hold,  without  being  at 
all  crowded.  The  syrup  should  cover  all 
well,  and  it  is  better  to  have  too  few 


than  too  many  in  every  jar.  Let  the 
jars  stand  until  the  syrup  is  quite  cold, 
and  then  tie  them  up  with  paper  dipped 
in  brandy. 

1592.— TO  DEY  CHEEEIES. 

Weigh  the  cherries  before  they  are 
stoned,  and  allow  to  every  pound  of 
fruit  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  lump-sugar ; 
when  they  are  stoned  set  them  over  a 
slow  fire  to  heat,  then  take  them  out  of 
the  liquor  and  put  the  sugar  to  them, 
and  let  them  stand  till  it  is  dissolved. 
Then  set  them  over  the  fire  and  let  them 
just  boil.  Allow  them  to  stand  until 
they  are  quite  cold,  or,  if  convenient,  for 
two  or  three  days,  in  the  syrup ;  after- 
wards strain  them,  and  spread  them  on 
sieves  to  dry,  either  on  a  stove  or  in  the 
sun,  or  in  an  oven  after  the  bread  is 
drawn. 

The  same  syrup  will  do  again  for  more 
fruit. 

To  Dry  without  Sugar. — Stone,  and 
set  them  over  the  fire  in*the  preserving- 
pan  ;  let  them  simmer  in  their  own 
liquor,  and  shake  them  in  the  pan.  Put 
them  in  china  common  dishes ;  next  day 
give  them  another  scald,  and  put  them 
when  cold  on  sieves  to  dry  in  an  oven  of 
temperate  heat.  Twice  heating,  an  hour 
each  time,  will  do  them. 

Put  them  in  a  box,  with  a  paper  be- 
tween each  layer. 

1593.-CUEEANT  JAM. 

Strip  your  currants,  and  put  them  into 
your  pan,  with  three-quarters  of  a  pound 
of  sugar  to  a  pound  of  fruit,  add  your 
sugar  after  your  fruit  has  boiled  a  few 
minutes,  boil  all  together,  mashing  your 
fruit  with  a  wooden  spoon ;  boil  all  gently 
for  half  an  hour,  then  fill  your  jars. 

Currants  Preserved. — Take  the  seeds 
and  stalks  from  whatever  quantity  of 
currants  you  intend  to  use,  of  which  a 
fourth  part  must  be  white  currants  ;  put 


504: 


THE  PKACTldAL  HOUSEKEEPER. 


them  into  a  preserving  pan  with  a  glass 
of  water,  let  them  boil  up  until  the  fruit 
bursts,  then  strain  the  juice  twice, 
clarify  and  boil  to  casse  some  sugar,  an 
equal  weight  to  the  fruit,  pour  the  juice 
on  it,  boil  them  together  a  quarter  of  an 
hour,  and  having  skimmed  it  well,  pour 
it  into  pots. 

To  preserve  them  dry. — Tie  up  in 
bunches ;  to  every  pound  of  currants  boil 
two  pounds  of  sugar,  till  it  boils  very 
ptrong,  dip  in  the  currants,  let  them  boil 
very  fast  till  the  sugar  flies  all  over  them  ; 
when  settled  a  quarter  of  an  hour  boil 
them  till  the  sugar  rises  almost  to  the 
top  of  the  pan,  let  them  settle,  skim  them 
and  set  them  by  till  next  day.  then  drain 
them  and  lay  them  out,  taking  care  to 
spread  the  sprigs  that  they  may  not  dry 
clogged  together ;  dust  them  very  much, 
and  dry  them  in  a  hot  stove. 

1594— FIGS  GEEEN,  TO  PEESEEVE. 
Slit  some  small  green  figs  on  the  top, 
and  put  them  i»to  water  for  ten  days,  and 
proceed  thus : — Put  as  much  salt  into  the 
water  as  will  make  it  bear  an  egg,  then 
let  it  settle,  take  off  the  scum  and  put 
the  clear  brine  to  the  figs^  keep  them  for 
ten  days ;  then  put  them  into  fresh  water, 
shifting  them  every  day  for  four  days ; 
again  drain,  then  put  them  into  clarified 
sugar,  warm  them  a  -little  and  let  them 
stand  till  the  next  day;  warm  them 
again,  and  when  they  are  become  green 
give  them  a  good  boil,  then  boil  some 
sugar  down,  put  it  to  them  and  give 
them  another  boil,  and  next  day  drain 
and  dry  them. 

1595.— FIGS  EIPE,  TO  PEESEEVE. 

Take  the  figs  when  ripe,  slit  them  in 
the  tops,  put  them  into  clarified  sugar, 
and  give  them  a  good  boil,  skim  them, 
and  leave  them  to  stand  till  the  next 
day.  then  boil  some  more  sugar,  put  it 
to  the  figs  and  give  them  another  boil, 
the  next  day  drain  and  dry  them. 


Ripe  or  Green  Tomatoes — Make  a  nice 
preserve.  They  require  a  more  than 
usual  quantity  of  sugar. 

1596.— GINGEE,  PEESEEVED. 

Take  some  green  ginger,  and  with  a 
sharp  knife  pare  it  neatly,  and  as  it  is 
pared  throw  into  a  pan  of  cold  water  to 
keep  it  white ;  when  you  have  a  sufficient 
quantity  boil  it  till  tender,  changing  the 
water  three  times  each  time ;  put  it  into 
cold  water  to  take  out  the  heat  or  spirit 
of  the  ginger,  when  tender  throw  it  into 
cold  water.  For  seven  pounds  of  ginger 
clarify  eight  pounds  of  refined  sugar; 
when  cold  drain  the  ginger  and  put  it  into 
an  earthen  pan,  with  a  sufficient  quantity 
of  the  sugar  cold  to  cover  it,  and  let  it 
stand  for  a  couple  of  days  ;  then  pour  the 
syrup  from  the  ginger  to  the  remainder 
of  the  sugar,  boil  it  for  some  time,  and 
when  cold  pour  it  on  the  ginger  again, 
and  set  by  for  three  days  at  least.  Then 
taKe  the  syrup  from  the  ginger,  boil  it, 
and  then  put  it  hot  over  the  ginger  ;  pro- 
ceed in  this  manner  until  you  find  the 
sugar  has  entered  the  ginger ;  boiling  the 
syrup  and  skimming  off  the  scum  that 
rises  each  time  until  the  syrup  becomes 
rich  as  well  as  the  ginger ;  if  the  syrup 
is  put  on  hot  at  first,  or  if  too  rich  the 
ginger  will  shrink  and  not  take  the 
sugar. 

159T.— MAEMALADE. 

Marmalade  may  be  composed  almost 
of  any  fruit ;  the  best  however  for  this 
purpose  are  apricots,  peaches,  oranges, 
quinces,  eggs,  plums,  apples,  &c. ;  they 
are  usually  made  by  boiling  the  fruit  and 
sugar  together  to  a  kind  of  pulp,  stirring 
them  constantly  while  on  the  fire.  It  is 
kept  in  pots  which  must  not  be  covered, 
till  the  marmalade  is  quite  cold ;  the  pro- 
portion of  sugar  is  half  a  pound  to  each 
pound  of  fruit. 

1598.— APPLE  MAEMALADE. 

Boil  some  pippins  until  they  begin  to 


PRESERVES. 


505 


get  tender,  then  put  them  into  cold  water, 
pare  and  core  them,  squeeze  the  pulp 
through  a  sieve,  and  put  it  over  the  fire, 
letting  it  remain  till  it  becomes  very 
thick,  then  weigh  an  equal  quantity  of 
fine  sugar,  boil  till  the  sugar  rises  in 
sparkles  which  cluster  together,  put  the 
marmalade  to  it,  and  stir  them  well  with 
a  wooden  spoon  till  the  apples  begin  to 
boil,  then  take  it  off,  and  when  a  little 
cool  put  it  into  pots,  but  do  not  cover 
them  until  quite  cold. 

1599.— OEANGE  MARMALADE. 

Blanch  the  rinds  of  fifteen  oranges 
without  any  of  the  white  till  soft,  then 
soak  them  in  cold  water  for  a  few  min- 
utes, drain  and  pound  them  to  a  paste, 
which  rub  through  a  sieve  ;  ascertain  its 
weight,  and  for  each  pound  allow  a 
pound  and  a  half  of  sugar ;  clarify  and 
boil  the  sugar  till  the  bubbles  rise  strong- 
ly to  the  surface ;  put  in  the  paste  and 
boil  them  together,  stirring  continually 
till  the  marmalade  is  done.  To  know 
when  the  marmalade  is  fit  to  turn  out 
and  be  potted,  take  some  up  between 
your  thumb  and  finger,  and  if  on  opening 
them  it  draws  out  like  a  thread  it  is 
done.  The  Southerners  use  bitter 
oranges. 

Marmalades  of  raspberries,  blackber- 
ries, plums,  grapes,  &c.}  are  most  in 
favor. 

JAMS. 

1600.— EASPBEEERY. 

Take  equal  weights  of  fruit  and  moist 
sugar ;  put  them  on  the  fire  together ; 
keep  stirring  and  breaking  the  fruit  till 
the  sugar  melts,  then  boil  it  till  it  will 
jelly  on  a  plate. 

1601.-CHEEEY. 

Stone  four  pounds  of  cherries,  and  put 
them  in  a  preserving-pan  with  two  pounds 
of  fine  white  sugar  and  a  pint  of  red- 


currant  juice.  Boil  the  whole  together 
rather  fast,  until  it  stiffens,  and  then  put 
it  into  pots  for  use. 

1602.— BLACKBEEEY. 

In  families  where  there  are  many 
children,  there  is  no  preparation  of  fruit 
so  wholesome,  so  cheap,  and  so  much  ad- 
mired, as  this  homely  conserve.  The 
fruit  should  be  clean-  picked  in  dry 
weather,  and  to  every  pound  of  berries 
put  half  a  pound  of  coarse  brown  sugar  ; 
boil  the  whole  together  for  three-quarters 
of  an  hour  or  one  hour,  stirring  it  well 
the  whole  time.  Put  it  in  pots  like  any 
other  preserve,  and  it  will  be  found  most 
useful  in  families,  as  it  may  be  given  to 
children  instead  of  medicine. 

Compotes  of  fruit  are  made  by  prepar- 
ing a  syrup,  and  simmering  the  fruit  in 
it  two  or  three  minutes,  then  pouring 
the  syrup  over,  after  it  is  boiled  down  a 
little ;  a  delicate  light  jelly  is  thus  formed 
round  the  fruit.  Not  more  than  half  the 
weight  of  the  fruit  in  sugar,  or  even  a  less 
proportion,  is  used.  The  dish  is  a  nice 
one  for  desserts,  but  will  not  keep.  All 
kinds  of  fresh  fruit  may  be  thus  pre- 
pared. 

1603.— TO  PEESEEVE  OEANGES  OE  LEMONS 
IN  JELLY. 

Cut  a  hole  at  the  stalk  the  size  of  a 
shilling,  and  with  a  small  blunt  knife 
scrape  out  the  pulp  quite  clear,  without 
cutting  the  rind,  and  lay  them  in  spring 
water  two  days,  changing  it  twice  a  day  j 
in  the  last,  boil  them  tender  on  a  slow 
fire,  keeping  them  covered  to  the  last. 
To  every  pound  of  fruit  take  two  pounds 
of  double-refined  sugar  and  one  pint  of 
water ;  boil  the  two  latter  together  with 
the  juice  of  the  orange  to  a  syrup,  and 
clarify  it ;  skim  well  and  let  it  stand  to 
be  cold  ;  then  boil  the  fruit  in  the  syrup 
half  an  hour ;  if  not  clear,  do  this  daily 
till  they  are  done. 


506 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPEE. 


1604— TO  PEESEEVE  LEMON  PEEL. 

Squeeze  the  juice  out  of  the  lemons, 
put  the  rinds,  with  the  pulps,  into  water, 
and  let  them  remain  a  fortnight,  taking 
care  always  to  have  them  covered  with 
the  same  water ;  then  take  out  the  pulp, 
and  boil  the  rinds  in  the  water  till  they 
can  be  pierced  with  a  knitting  needle ; 
make  a  rich  syrup  of  brown  sugar — pound 
for  pound  of  rinds — and  pour  it  boiling 
over  them ;  cover  close  for  three  weeks, 
then  give  them  a  second  boil  in  the 
syrup,  and  cover  for  use. 

1605.— BAEBEEEY  CAKES. 

Pick  the  barberries  and  weigh  them ; 
to  every  pound  of  fruit  add  one  pound 
of  sugar  pounded  and  sifted.  Bruise  the 
barberries  in  a  mortar,  boil  them  gently 
till  nearly  all  the  juice  is  consumed,  then 
take  them  off  the  fire  and  stir  in  the 
sugar  by  degrees  j  drop  the  fruit  on  ear- 
then dishes  to  dry :  it  must  not  go  over 
the  fire  after  the  sugar  is  put  in,  nor 
must  there  be  any  water  used.  Do  not 
pound  the  barberries  too  small,  as  the 
cakes  will  not  look  so  well. 

Currant  cakes  may  be  made  in  the 
same  way. 

1606.-EASPBEEET  CAKES. 

Take  any  quantity  of  fruit  you  please, 
weigh  and  boil  it,  and  when  mashed,  and 
the  liquor  is  washed,  add  as  much  sugar 
as  was  equal  in  weight  to  the  raw  fruit. 
Mix  it  very  well  off  the  fire  till  the 
whole  is  dissolved,  then  lay  it  on  plates, 
and  dry  it  in  the  sun.  "When  the  top 
part  dries  cut  it  off  into  small  cakes,  and 
turn  them  on  a  fresh  plate.  When  dry, 
put  the  whole  in  boxes  with  layers  of 
paper. 

1607.— BEANDY  CHEEEIES. 

Get  the  largest  morel  cherries  you 
can,  cut  off  half  of  the  stalk,  pricking 
each  cherry  with  a  needle,  putting  them  as 


you  do  them  into  a  high  glass ;  add  three 
quarters  of  the  weight  in  white  candy 
sugar  bruised  between  until  full,  a  gill  of 
Noyeau,  and  then  fill  up  with  French 
brandy ;  tie  a  bladder  over  the  bottle. 

1608.— CHEEEIES  IN  BEANDY. 

Choose  the  finest  and  ripest  cherries, 
leave  on  half  the  stalks,  wash  and  weigh 
them ;  to  every  pound  of  fruit  allow  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar ;  when  you 
have  clarified  and  boiled  it,  put  in  the 
fruit,  boil  them  up  two  or  three  times, 
then  put  the  cherries  into  bottles,  or 
glass  jars ;  when  filled,  add  to  each  twelve 
cloves  and  half  an  ounce  of  cinnamon 
tied  in  a  linen  bag,  put  to  the  sugar 
when  nearly  cold,  brandy  in  proportion 
of  a  pint  and  a  half  to  a  pound  of  fruit, 
mix  them  together  well,  and  pour  them 
on  the  cherries.  In  two  months'  time 
taste  them,  and  if  sufficiently  flavored, 
take  out  the  cloves  and  cinnamon  ;  cover 
the  jars  close. 

Plums,  apricots,  &c.5  can  be  done  the 
same  way. 

1609.-MOCK  PEESEEVED  GINGER.     ]  * 

Boil,  as  if  for  the  table,  small,  tender, 
white  carrots;  scrape  them  until  free 
from  all  spots,  and  take  out  the  hearts. 
Steep  them  in  spring  water,  changing  it 
every  day,  until  all  vegetable  flavor  has 
left  them.  To  every  pound  of  carrot  so 
prepared,  add  one  quart  of  water,  two 
pounds  of  loaf-sugar,  two  ounces  of  whole 
ginger,  and  the  shred  rind  of  a  lemon. 
Boil  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour  every  day, 
until  the  carrots  are  clear ;  and,  when 
nearly  done,  add  red  pepper  to  taste.  This 
will  be  found  equal  to  West  India  pre- 
served ginger. 

1610.— YANKEE  APPLE  BUTTEE. 

Boil  cider  down  one  half;  put  in  as 
many  apples  as  the  liquor  will  contain, 
stew  them  soft ;  then  take  them  out  and 


TO   KEEP   FRUIT   FRESH. 


507 


put  in  fresh  apples.  "When  they  are 
cold  boil  them  again  in  the  cider  till 
they  are  pulpy  and  thick.  Add  different 
kinds  of  spice,  a  little  before  it  is  done. 
Keep  in  covered  jars. 

1611.— CEANBEERY  SAUCE. 

Simmer  the  berries  in  a  very  little 
water,  till  very  thick  and  pulpy ;  sweeten 
to  taste ;  they  will  require  as  much  as 
preserves;  strain  the  marmalade  into  a 
mould. 

1612.— TO  KEEP  PEACHES  FEESH. 

Pare  and  halve  your  peaches,  have 
your  cans  perfectly  dry,  set  one  at  a  time 
in  a  bain  marie  in  boiling  water,  to  drive 
out  the  air.  Fill  the  can  as  full  as  you 
can  without  bruising  the  fruit;  if  you 
have  plenty  of  fruit,  boil  some  in  a  very 
little  water,  fill  the  can  with  it — and  seal 
it  immediately.  Do  not  put  any  sugar 
in  the  peaches  or  juice.  If  you  have  not 
much  fruit,  a  little  boiling  water  will  do, 
as  each  can  will  hold  but  a  few  spoonfuls. 
Do  not  let  it  boil  until  it  becomes 
colored. 

Any  fruit  or  vegetables  may  be  pre- 
served in  the  same  manner.  Inspect  the 
cans  daily,  and  if  the  tops  bulge  out,  be 
sure  the  sealing  has  not  been  perfect, 
and  fermentation  has  begun.  Then 
open  the  can,  use  the  article,  and  put 
up  a  fresh  quantity.  To  open  the  can, 
set  it  in  the  oven,  till  the  cement  is 
soft ;  then  lift  out  the  cover,  and  let 
the  can  cool.  To  open  glass  jars,  hold 
a  flat-iron,  heated,  on  the  cover  till  the 
cement  softens. 

Butter  may  be  kept  unchanged  for 
years  in  air-tight  vessels,  as  sweet  as  if 
fresh  from  the  dairy.  To  insure  means 
in  excluding  the  air,  it  is  best  to  fill  the 
vessel  nearly  full  of  well  worked  fresh 
butter,  allowing  room  for  a  thin  layer  of 
salt ;  over  this  lay  a  piece  of  white  paper ; 
pour  on  the  paper  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
spirits  of  wine ;  set  it  on  fire ;  hold  the 


cover  over  the  flame  for  an  instant,  and 
if  you  have  spirits  enough,  it  will  furnish 
heat  for  the  cover,  then  put  it  into  place 
while  the  spirits  are  burning. 

Or,  powder  two  pounds  fine  salt,  one 
pound  loaf-sugar,  and  half  a  pound  of 
saltpetre.  Sift  these  ingredients  over  a 
large  sheet  of  paper,  and  mix  them  well ; 
then  keep  them  covered  close  in  a  jar  in 
a  dry  place.  When  the  butter  is  well 
worked  and  salted,  and  ready  to  go  into 
jars,  use  one  ounce  of  this  composition 
to  every  pound  of  butter.  "Work  it  well 
into  the  mass.  In  a  month  place  the 
butter  thus  prepared  into  jars  or  else 
lay  a  cloth  over  the  butler ;  on  this  put  a 
layer  of  salt,  with  a  piece  of  white  paper 
on  the  salt ;  pour  a  little  spirits  on  the 
paper,  set  fire  to  it,  and  seal  as  above  di- 
rected. 

1613.— TO  KEEP  TOMATOES. 

Peel  the  tomatoes,  and  put  them  in  a 
kettle  over  the  fire  till  they  boil  for  ten 
or  fifteen  minutes.  They  are  then  ready 
for  sealing.  The  half-gallon  or  gallon 
sized  cans  are  the  best  for  the  purpose. 
Fill  one  with  the  hot  tomatoes,  wipe  off 
from  the  cement  any  juice,  and  put  on 
the  cover.  The  contents  of  the  can  will 
so  heat  the  cover,  that  it  is  only  neces- 
sary to  press  it  firmly  into  place.  "When 
first  closed,  as  the  confined  steam  is 
elastic,  it  will  rise  up,  and  a  weight,  say 
of  five  or  six  pounds,  must  be  used  to 
keep  it  down  ;  or  a  piece  of  ice  may  be 
laid  on  it,  which  will  condense  the  steam 
within.  If  the  can  is  larger  than  the 
weight,  put  a  board  on  first.  When  the 
cans  are  cold,  if  the  sealing  is  perfect,  the 
tops  and  bottoms  will  be  concave.  If 
the  cement  of  the  cover  should  not  be 
sufficiently  melted,  hold  on  the  top  a 
heated  flat-iron,  till  the  cover  goes  down 
into  its  place. 

1614— TO  PEESEEYE  GEEEN  CORN. 
Fill  a  strong  tin  canister  with  the  corn, 
solder    it    tightly,  place    it  in    boiling 


508 


THE  PRACTICAL  HOUSEKEEPER. 


water,  and  allow  it  to  remain  several 
hours.  The  top  and  bottom  will  swell, 
and  the  can  may  burst  (if  not  strongly 
made)  with  the  confined  steam.  Some 
puncture  the  vessel,  and  when  the  steam 
escapes,  solder  up  the  opening.  Others 
do  not  consider  this  necessary;  or  if  the 
vessel,  tightly  covered,  is  cooked  a  long 
time  in  a  bath  of  brine,  in  which  a  higher 
temperature  may  be  obtained  than  in 
water,  and  then  sealed  hermetically,  the 
vegetable  will  keep. 

1615.— TO  CLAEIFT  SUGAR. 

Take  the  quantity  of  fine  white  loaf 
sugar  you  intend  to  clarify,  add  to  it  of 
very  clean  warm  water,  half  a  pint  for 
every  pound ;  when  dissolved  add  to  it 
the  white  of  one  or  two  eggs — as  the 
quantity  may  require — well  whipped ; 
put  it  on  the  fire,  and  when  it  comes  to 
a  boil  pour  into  it  an  ordinary  teacupful 
of  cold  water ;  on  its  rising  again  to  a 
boil,  remove  it,  and  let  it  settle  for 
twenty  minutes,  skim  the  scum  from  the 
top,  pour  off  the  syrup  into  a  clean  ves- 
sel with  sufficient  quickness  to  leave  all 
the  sediment  at  the  bottom,  and  such 
steadiness  as  to  prevent  any  of  the  lat- 
ter rising  and  mixing  with  it. 

161T.-TO  BOIL  SUGAR  FOR  BASKETS  OR 
SPINNING. 

Fill  quite  full  a  pint  and  a  half  stew- 
pan  with  pieces  of  lump  sugar,  fill  the 
stewpan  with  clear  spring  water,  let  the 
water  barely  cover  the  sugar,  put  it  on  to 
boil,  skim  it  all  the  time  that  any  scum 
arises  ;  let  it  boil  fast  with  the  stewpan 
flat  upon  the  fire,  not  halfway ;  it  will 
not  boil  over  if  your  fire  is  regular. 
Then  get  ready  a  large  basin  of  cold 
water,  and  when  it  has  boiled  some  time 
and  begins  to  appear  all  froth  or  bladders 
do  not  go  away  and  leave  it ;  after  hav- 
ing boiled  so  for  some  few  minutes,  have 
a  silver  spoon  and  dip  it  into  it,  and  then 


into  the  water ;  if  it  is  getting  to  a  sub- 
stance pour  in  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon, 
free  from  pips,  still  keeping  it  boiling  on 
the  fire;  keep  frequently  trying  it  by 
dropping  and  spinning  a  little  in  the  cold 
water,  and  when  it  makes  a  crackling 
noise,  and  is  very  brittle,  take  off  your 
stewpan  and  pour  it  into  a  cold  stewpan ; 
work  it  well  with  your  spoon,  give  it  one 
more  boil,  then  take  it  off  and  hold  the 
stewpan  in  cold  water,  stirring  it  all  the 
time,  for  a  minute  or  two ;  it  is  then 
ready  for  a  basket,  or  spinning,  or  what 
you  may  require  it  for.  It  is  but  very 
little  used  now  for  second  courses ;  at 
breakfasts  and  ball  suppers  it  is  gener- 
ally introduced  and  liked,  but  it  too  fre- 
quently answers  the  purpose  of  lock  and 
key,  saying  as  much,  as  '"  this  must  not  be 
touched  j "  many  think  it  will  do  again, 
and  do  not  like  to  break  through  it, 

The  various  purposes  to  which  sugar 
is  applied  require  it  to  be  in  different 
states;  these  are  called  degrees.  They 
extend  to  the  number  of  thirteen,  and 
are  named  in  the  following  order : 

Petit  Lisse,  or  First  degree. — Replace 
the  clarified  sugar  in  the  preserving-pan 
to  boil  gently,  take  a  drop  of  it  on  the 
thumb,  touch  it  with  the  forefinger ;  if 
on  opening  them  it  draws  to  a  fine  thread, 
and  in  breaking  forms  two  drops  on  each 
finger,  it  is  at  the  right  point. 

Lisse,  Second  degree. — A  little  more 
boiling  brings  it  to  this  point,  when  the 
thread  will  draw  further  before  it  breaks. 

Petit  Perle,  Third  degree.— At  this 
point  the  thread  may  be  drawn  as  far  as 
the  span  will  open  without  breaking. 

Grand  Perle,  Fourth  degree. — On  still 
increasing  the  boiling,  little  raised  balls 
are  formed  on  the  surface  of  the  sugar. 

Petit  Queue  de  Cochon,  Fifth  degree. — 

Take  up  some  of  the  sugar  on  a  skim- 
mer, and  drop  it  on  the  rest,  when  it 
should  form  a  slanting  streak  on  the  sur- 
face. 

Grande    Queue  de    Cochon,  Sixth  de- 


TO   CANDY  FKUIT. 


509 


gree. — Boil  it  jet  a  little  longer;  the 
streak  or  tail  is  now  larger,  and  it  has 
reached  this  point. 

Souffle,  'Seventh  degree. — Take  out  a 
skimmerful  of  the  sugar,  blow  through 
it  and  small  sparks  of  sugar  will  fly 
from  it. 

Petit  Plume,  Eighth  degree The 

same  proof  as  above ;  the  sparks  should 
be  larger  and  stronger. 

Grande  Plume,  Ninth  degree. — Take 
the  sugar  in  the  skimmer  as  before  ;  give 
it  a  shake,  and  if  the  sparks  are  large, 
and  adhere  together  on  rising,  it  is  at  the 
right  point. 

Petit  Boulet,  Tenth  degree. — Dip  your 
fingers  in  cold  water,  and  then  into  the 
sugar  instantly,  and  again  into  the  water, 
when  the  sugar  will  roll  into,  a  ball 
which  will  be  supple  when  cold. 

Qros  Boulet,  Eleventh  degree. — At  this 
point  the  ball  or  bullet  will  be  harder 
when  cold  than  the  last. 

Casse,  Twelfth  degree. — Prove  as  above ; 
the  bullet  should  crumble  between  the 
fingers,  and  on  biting  will  stick  to  the 
teeth. 

Caramel,  Thirteenth  degree. — At  this 
point  it  should  snap  clean  when  bitten. 
This  point  is  very  difficult  to  attain,  for 
in  increasing  the  height,  the  sugar  is  apt 
to  burn ;  it  is  better,  therefore,  to  try  the 
proof  very  frequently. 

Another  caramel  is  much  used  by  the 
confectioner,  and  is  of  a  deep  color ;  it  is 
made  by  putting  a  little  water  to  the 
sugar,  and  boiling  it  without  skimming 
or  otherwise  touching  the  sugar  till  of 
the  right  color,  then  take  it  off,  and  use 
immediately. 

If  on  preparing  the  sugar,  you  happen 
to  miss  the  right  point,  add  a  little  cold 
water,  and  boil  once  more. 

The  skimmer  should  never  be  left  in 
the  preserving-pan  after  the  sugar  is  clari- 
fied, nor  after  the  scum  is  removed. 

Be  very  careful  not  to  stir  or  disturb 


the  sugar,  as  that  would  cause  its  dim- 
inution. 

In  boiling  the  sugar,  particularly  the 
two  last  degrees,  the  sugar  is  continu- 
ously rising  and  falling,  and  on  falling 
leaves  marks  on  the  side  of  the  pan, 
which  the  heat  of  the  fire  would  soon 
burn  and  thereby  spoil  the  whole  of  the 
sugar.  To  avoid  this  have  a  sponge  with 
cold  water,  and  wipe  the  sides  of  the  pan 
the  instant  the  sugar  has  fallen. 

1617.— TO  CANDY  FEUIT. 

Having  prepared  your  fruit,  steep  it  in 
the  syrup,  and  lay  it  as  done  in  an  open 
sieve,  until  the  bottom  is  covered  with 
one  layer ;  steep  this  suddenly  in  scald- 
ing water.  This  will  remove  any  syrup 
which  may  cling  to  the  fruit.  Lay  them 
aside  on  a  napkin  to  drain,  and  go  on 
with  the  others.  You  will  have  ready, 
finely-powdered,  some  of  the  best  loaf 
sugar ;  sift  this  over  the  fruit  until  they 
are  white  all  over,  without  being  to« 
thickly  encrusted  ;  lay  them  so  as  not  to 
touch  each  other,  on  strainers  or  the 
reverse  end  of  small  sieves  ;  place  them 
in  a  gently-warmed  oven,  watch  them 
carefully,  turning  them  until  dry.  The 
warmth  of  <  the  oven  must  not  be  in- 
creased, but  must  not  abate  until  the 
fruit  is  quite  dry. 

Almonds. — Blanch  any  quantity  of 
almonds,  then  fry  them  in  butter  till  they 
are  of  a  light  brown  color ;  wipe  them 
nicely  with  a  napkin,  and  put  them  into 
a  pan.  Make  a  syrup  of  white  sugar, 
and  boil  it  to  a  thread — that  is,  until  on 
your  taking  a  drop  of  the  sugar  between 
the  finger  and  thumb  it  will  produce  a 
thread  ;  care  must  be  taken  to  boil  it  to 
the  exact  candying-point ;  pour  it  boil- 
ing-hot upon  the  almonds,  and  stir  them 
till  they  are  quite  cold.  This  is  an  ex- 
cellent method  of  preparing  almonds  for 
dessert. 


510 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


Bon-fions. — Clear  off  the  sugar  from 
fresh  candied  citron  or  orange-rind,  cut 
it  into  squares  one  inch  thick,  stick  them 
singly  on  a  bit  of  thin  wire,  and  dip 
them  into  liquid  barley-sugar ;  rub  a  dish 
with  a  few  drops  of  pure  salad  oil,  and 
lay  the  fruit  upon  this  to  cool.  They 
should  be  kept  in  tin  canisters  in  a  very 
diy  place. 

Toffie. — Melt  in  a  stewpan  three  ounces 
of  fresh  butter,  add  one  pound  of  good 
moist  sugar,  stir  it  well  over  a  gentle 
fire,  and  let  it  boil  about  a  quarter  of  an 
hour,  or  till  it  cracks  short  between  the 
teeth  like  barley-sugar;  then  pour  it 
upon  buttered  dishes,  and  when  nearly 
cold  mark  it  across  in  squares  that  it 
may  easily  divide,  or  roll  it  into  sticks. 
When  half-boiled,  the  grated  rind  of  a 
lemon  or  a  teaspoonful  of  ground  ginger 
may  be  added.  A  few  sliced  almonds 
may  be  added  after  it  is  poured  upon  the 
dishes. 


BEVEEAGES. 

Louis  XII.,  of  France,  first  gave  per- 
mission to  distil  spirits  on  a  large  scale. 
So  terrific  were  the  effects  twenty  years 
afterwards,  that  Francis,  his  successor, 
was  obliged,  for  the  safety  of  his  sub- 
jects, to  enact  a  law,  that  the  drunkard 
who  remained  incorrigible,  after  severe 
monitory  punishments,  should  suffer  am- 
putation of  the  ears,  and  be  banished 
from  the  kingdom.  How  much  more 
wisely  would  Francis  have  acted,  if,  in- 
stead of  banishing  the  drunkard,  he  had 
banished  the  pernicious  material  of 
drunkenness!  Take  another  example: 
Sweden  was  a  temperate  country,  ar- 
dent spirits  being,  to  a  great  extent,  pre- 
vented from  coming  into  ordinary  use. 
In  1783,  however,  Gustavus,  king  of 
Sweden,  gave  permission  for  opening 
spirit  shops  in  all  the  villages  of  his  king- 


dom. His  object  was  to  increase  his 
revenue,  and  that  object  he  apparently 
for  a  time  accomplished ;  for  immediate- 
ly ardent  spirits  were  loaded  with  ficti- 
tious excellences,  by  those  who  loved 
them,  and  those  who  were  interested  in 
their  sale :  the  drinking  of  them,  which 
had  formerly  been  carried  on  in  secret, 
now  became  respectable  ;  and  the  con- 
sumption of  them  was  greatly  increased. 
But  mark  the  consequence; — such  was 
the  increase  of  drunkenness  and  crime, 
of  fatal  accidents  and  premature  mor- 
tality, that  the  very  same  king  who  gave 
the  permission,  was  obliged,  for  the  pre- 
servation of  his  people,  to  withdraw  it. 

Spruce  Beer. — Allow  an  ounce  of  hops 
and  a  spoonful  of  ginger  to  a  gallon  of 
water.  When  well  boiled,  strain  it,  and 
put  in  a  pint  of  molasses  and  half  an 
ounce  or  less  of  the  essence  of  spruce ; 
when  cool,  add  a  teacup  of  yeast,  and 
put  into  a  clean  tight  cask,  and  let  it  fer- 
ment for  a  day  or  two,  then  bottle  it  for 
use.  You  can  boil  the  sprigs  of  spruce- 
fir  in  room  of  the  essence. 

Ginger  Beer. — Fourteen  gallons  water, 
fourteen  pounds  loaf  sugar,  four  ounces 
ginger,  well  pounded ;  boil  one  hour,  add 
the  whites  of  eight  eggs  beat  up,  and 
take  off  the  scum  ;  strain  the  liquor  into 
an  earthen  pan,  let  it  stand  till  cold,  then 
put  it  into  your  cask  with  the  peel  of 
fourteen  lemons  cut  thin,  and  their  juice 
strained.  Add  half  a  spoonful  of  ale- 
yeast  on  the  top.  Stop  the  vessel  closely 
for  a  fortnight.  Then  it  may  be  bottled, 
and  in  another  fortnight  will  be  fit  for 
use. 

Another  for  Ginger  Beer. — One  pound 
sugar,  one  ounce  ginger,  one-half  ounce 
of  cream  of  tartar,  one  lemon  sliced. 
Put  all  into  a  pan,  pour  over  one  and  a 
half  gallons  boiling  water,  and  when 
milk-warm  put  in  a  little  yeast ;  let  it 
stand  all  night  to  work ;  bottle  it ;  and 
in  three  days  it  is  fit  for  use. 


BEVERAGES. 


511 


Lemonade. — Three  lemons  to  a  pint  of 
water,  makes  strong  lemonade ;  sweeten 
to  your  taste. 

This  is  the  best  beverage  for  parties  ; 
cool,  refreshing,  pleasant,  and  salubrious. 

Orangeade. — Roll  and  press  the  juice 
from  the  oranges,  in  the  same  way  as 
from  lemons.  It  requires  less  sugar  than 
lemonade.  The  water  must  be  pure  and 
cold,  and  then  there  can  be  nothing  more 
delicious  than  these  two  kinds  of  drink. 

Currant  Wine Gather  the  currants 

when  dry,  extract  the  juice,  either  by 
mashing  and  pressing  the  fruit,  or  put- 
ting it  in  a  jar,  placed  in  boiling  water ; 
strain  the  juice,  and  for  every  gallon 
allow  one  gallon  of  water  and  three 
pounds  of  sugar.  Dissolve  the  sugar  in 
the  water,  and  take  off  the  scum  ;  let  it 
cool,  add  it  to  the  currant  juice,  and  put 
the  mixture  in  a  keg,  but  do  not  close  it 
tightly  till  it  has  ceased  fermenting, 
which  will  not  be  under  a  week.  In 
three  or  four  weeks  it  may  be  bottled. 
The  white  of  an  egg  beaten,  mixed  with 
a  teaspoonful  of  cream  of  tartar,  and 
stirred  into  the  liquid,  makes  the  wine 
look  clear  and  bright.  Some  add  a  por- 
tion of  spirits. 

Raspberry  Vinegar. — To  two  and  a 
half  quarts  of  ripe  raspberries  put  one 
pint  of  the  best  vinegar.  Bruise  them 
well,  and  let  it  stand  three  days.  Strain 
the  juice  through  a  bag,  and  add  its 
weight  of  sugar.  Boil  it,  skim  well,  and 
bottle  it  closely. 

Syrup  of  Almonds. — Blanch  and  pound 
in  a  marble  mortar  one  pound  of  sweet 
and  one  ounce  of  bitter  almo'nds  ;  adding 
a  spoonful  or  two  of  orange-flower  water. 
Mix  a  pint  of  rose  water  with  one  of  pure 
water,  add  it  to  the  almonds,  and  pass 
the  whole  through  a  lawn  sieve.  Then 
boil  three  pints  clarified  syrup,  and  when 
it  boils  put  in  the  almonds,  and  let  them 
boil  one  minute.  When  cold  put  it  into 
Dottles,  and  cork  it  for  use. 

To  make   it  for  immediate  -use,  after 


pounding  the  almonds,  mix  them  with  a 
quart  of  water,  one  of  milk,  and  one  of 
clarified  syrup  or  capillaire,  and  pasa 
through  a  sieve.  0 

Valencia  Wine. — To  each  gallon  of 
goo(j  spirits  take  the  peel  of  eighteen 
lemons;  let  them  remain  forty-eight 
hours  in  the  spirits ;  then  add  the  juice 
with  five  quarts  of  cold  spring  water, 
three  pounds  of  loaf  sugar,  a  quarter  of 
a  pound  of  bitter  almonds  well  blanched, 
half  a  drachm  of  saffron,  and  two  ounces 
of  ground  ginger  ;  mix  all  together,  and 
pour  over  all  three  quarts  new  milk, 
scalding  hot,  but  not  boiled  ;  let  it  stand 
till  next  day,  then  run  it  through  flannel, 
like  jelly. 

Mead  without  fruit. — Boil  honey — 
three  or  four  pounds  to  a  gallon  of 
water — for  an  hour,  skimming  carefully, 
draining  the  skimmings,  and  returning 
what  runs  through.  When  nearly  cool, 
stir  in  a  teacupful  of  yeast  for  nine  gal- 
Ions,  and  let  it  ferment.  Put  it  in  a  cool 
cellar,  and  bottle  in  a  year. 

Currants  and  raspberry  juice,  orange 
and  lemon  peel,  spices  and  aromatic  herbs 
are  often  added  to  mead ;  the  last  towards 
the  end  of  the  fermentation,  in  a  muslin 
bag,  weighed  down  with  a  piece  of  flint. 
Six  quarts  of  red  currants  and  two  of 
black  will  do  for  twenty-five  pounds  of 
honey. 

Ratafias. — Ratafias  are  liquors  pre- 
pared by  infusing  the  juices  and  kernels 
of  fruit  in  strong  spirit  with  sugar.  For 
the  ratafia  of  cherries  take  two  quarts 
of  rectified  spirits  of  wine,  add  two 
drachms  beaten  cinnamon,  one  of  bruised 
cloves,  and  one  ounce  bruised  coriander 
seeds.  Cover  and  let  them  stand  a  week  ; 
then  from  rnorella  and  black  heart  cher- 
ries press  twelve  pints  of  juice,  add  three 
pounds  powdered  loaf  sugar,  and  mix 
with  the  spirit  and  spices  j  add  half  the 
cherry  stones,  mashed  in  a  mortar. 
Closely  cover  the  stone  jar,  containing 
all  these,  and  stir  or  shake  it  frequently. 


512 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


In  two  months  pour  it  off;  press  and  fil- 
ter the  residuum.  Then  put  it  into 
bottles  and  cork  it. 

Ratafia. — Blanch  two  ounces  of  peach 
and  apricot  kernels,  bruise  and  put  them 
into  a  bottle,  and  fill  nearly  up  *with 
brandy.  Dissolve  half  a  pound  of  white 
sugar-candy  in  a  cup  of  cold  water,  and 
add  to  the  brandy  after  it  has  stood  a 
month  on  the  kernels,  and  they  are 
strained  off;  then  filter  through  paper 
and  bottle  for  use.  The  distilled  leaves 
of  peaches  and  nectarines,  when  the  trees 
are  cut  in  the  spring,  are  an  excellent 
substitute  for  ratafia  in  puddings. 

Capillaire,  is  so  called  from  being  pre- 
pared from  a  kind  of  fern  called  capillus 
•Generis,  or  maiden-hair ;  but  almost  any 
other  fern  may  be  substituted  for  it.  A 
syrup  made  from  the  Canada  capillaire, 
with  maple  sugar,  is  sold. 

BEVERAGES  COMPOSED  PARTLY 
OF  FERMENTED  LIQUORS. 

Hot  spiced  wines  were  much  in  use  till 
the  beginning  of  the  sixteenth  century  ; 
and  some  of  these  favorite  compounds 
were  known  by  the  names  of  ypocras, 
sack,  and  clary.  The  first  of  these,  which 
took  its  name  from  the  bag  through 
which  it  was  strained,  called  by  apothe- 
caries "  Hippocrates's  sleeve,"  was  made 
either  of  white  or  red  wine  with  aromatics, 
such  as  ginger,  cinnamon,  aromatic  seeds, 
and  sugar.  Clary  was  made  from  clar- 
et, with  honey  and  aromatics  ;  and  sack 
from  the  wine  of  that  name,  a  kind  of 
sherry.  These  were  drunk  as  a  "  night 
cap,"  and  at  the  conclusion  of  a  ban- 
quet. Le  Grand,  in  his  u  Vie  privee  des 
Francois,"  observes  that  the  poets  of 
the  thirteenth  century  speak  with  rap- 
ture of  these  delicious  beverages ;  and  it  is 
said  that  they  were  highly  esteemed  in 
convents  and  universities.  A  scale  of 
perfection  was  even  observed  :  when  the 
compound  was  made  of  Bordeaux  wine, 
it  was  simply  called  Bishop;  but  re- 


ceived the  name  of  Cardinal  when  old 
Rhine  wine  was  used  ;  and  rose  to  the 
dignity  of  Pope  when  imperial  Tokay 
was  employed.  The  vestiges  of  these 
ancient  mixtures  may  still  be  seen  in  our 
mulled  wine  and  bishop. 

To  mull  Wine. — Boil  the  spices  (cin- 
namon, nutmeg  grated,  cloves,  and 
mace)  in  any  quantity  approved,  in  half 
a  gill  of  water ;  put  to  this  a  full  pint  of 
port,  with  sugar  to  taste.  Mix  it  well, 
and  serve  hot  with  thin  slips  of  toast  or 
rusks.  Lemon  or  orange  juice  may  be 
added,  and  the  water  may  be  strained  off 
from  the  spices.  Ale  or  Porter  may  l)e 
mulled  as  above,  and  have  toast  or  bis- 
cuits put  to  them.  Formerly  the  yolks 
of  eggs  were  mixed  with  mulled  wine,  as 
in  making  custard  or  egg-caudle,  and 
many  flavoring  ingredients  were  employ- 
ed which  are  now  disused. 

Bishop. — The  day  before  it  is  wanted, 
grill  over  a  clear,  slow  fire,  of  a  pale 
brown,  three  large,  bitter  oranges.  PJace 
them  in  a  small  punch-bowl  that  will 
about  hold  them,  and  pour  over  them  a 
full  half  pint  from  a  bottle  of  old  Bor- 
deaux wine,  in  which  a  pound  and  a 
quarter  of  loaf  sugar  is  dissolved.  Cover 
with  a  plate.  When  it  is  to  be  served 
next  day,  cut  and  squeeze  the  oranges 
into  a  small  sieve  placed  above  a  jug, 
containing  the  remainder  of  the  bottle  of 
wine,  previously  made  very  hot  ;  add 
more  syrup  if  it  is  wanted.  Serve  hot  in 
large  glasses,  or  in  summer  it  may  be 
iced.  Bishop  is  often  made  of  Madeira 
in  England,  and  is  perfumed  with  nut- 
megs, bruised  cloves,  and  mace.  It 
ought,  however,  to  be  made  of  old  gen- 
erous Bordeaux  wine,  or  it  fails  of  its 
purpose  as  a  tonic  liqueur.  It  is  reckon- 
ed highly  stomachic,  and  is  served  at 
French  dinners,  savans  and  recherches, 
either  as  the  coup  d'apres  or  after  the 
dessert. 

The  wassail  l>owl  of  ancient  times  was 


BEVERAGES. 


513 


made  of  mild  ale,  well  spiced  and  sweet- 
ened ;  and  sometimes  with  eggs  beat  up 
in  it. 

The  ancient  Ypocras  was  made  of  a 
quart  of  red  wine,  an  ounce  of  cinnamon, 
half  an  ounce  of  ginger,  a  quarter  of  an 
ounce  of  pepper,  and  half  a  pound  of  su- 
gar, all  put  into  a  bag  and  infused  in  the 
wine. 

Cool  Tankard.— The  composition  of 
this  ancient  beverage  is  of  great  variety. 
The  basis  is  home-brewed  ale,  spices,  and 
seasoning  herbs.  Some  use  cider  instead 
of  ale. 


Covered  Pitcher. 

Egg  Flip. — Heat  a  quart  of  good  ale, 
Jmd  pour  it  into  a  pitcher  ;  in  a  similar 
pitcher  beat  up  three  or  four  eggs  with  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  moist  sugar,  and 
one  or  two  glasses  of  rum  or  brandy, 
flavoring  it  with  nutmeg,  ginger,  and 
grated  lemon  peel.  When  the  ale  is 
quite  hot,  but  not  boiling,  pour  it 
quickly  in  to  the  jug  with  the  eggs,  return 
this  back  into  the  other  jug,  and  thus 
keep  pouring  the  mixture  backward  and 
forward  from  one  jug  to  another,  till  the 
whole  is  thoroughly  incorporated,  and  as 
smooth  as  cream. 

Egg  hot. — This  is  made  in  the  same 
manner  as  the  last,  only  there  is  no 
spirits  nor  spices  ;  simply  the  egg,  and 
ale  or  beer,  with  sugar. 

Ale  Posset. — Boil  a  pint  of  new  milk 
with  a  slice  of  toasted  bread  ;  pour  a 
bottle  of  mild  ale  into  a  punch-bowl. 


sweeten,  and  add  spices,  and  then  pour  the 
boiling  milk  over  it. 

Sack  Posset. — Boil  some  cream  and 
grated  sweet  biscuits  ;  add  sugar,  cinna- 
mon, and  nutmeg.  Warm'  some  sherry, 
and  stir  it  into  the  cream  ;  then  pour  the 
whole  quickly  from  one  vessel  to  another 
until  it  be  perfectly  smooth ;  or  it  may 
be  made  with  eggs  beat  up  in  milk  in- 
stead of  the  cream. 

Punch  is  a  beverage  made  of  various 
spirituous  liquors  or  wine,  hot  water,  the 
acid  juices  of  fruits,  and  sugar.  It  is  con- 
sidered to  be  very  intoxicating  ;  but  this 
is  probably  because  the  spirit  being 
partly  sheathed  by  the  mucilaginous 
juice  and  the  sugar,  its  strength  does  not 
appear  to  the  taste  so  great  as  it  really 
is.  Punch  was  almost  universally  drunk 
among  the  middle  classes  about  fifty  or 
sixty  years  ago. 

English  Punch. — Rub  the  yellow  rind 
of  a  lemon  with  lump  sugar  ;  put  this 
sugar  into  the  punch-bowl,  and  squeeze 
the  lemon  juice  to  it,  add  the  spirits, 
rum  and  brandy,  in  such  proportions 
as  are  preferred,  incorporate  the  spirits 
thoroughly  with  the  sugar  and  lemon 
before  pouring  in  the  boiling  water,  and 
keep  stirring  the  whole  while  this  is 
pouring  :  some  add  Madeira  or  sherry. 
Punch  is  kept  also  cold  in  bottles,  and  in 
summer  is  liked.  It  is  frequently  made 
with  whiskey. 

Regent"1  s  Punch. — A  bottle  of  Cham- 
pagne, a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  brandy,  a 
glassful  of  veritable  Martinique :  with 
this  mix  a  pint  or  more  of  a  strong  infu- 
sion of  the  best  green  tea  strained,  and 
capillaire  or  simple  syrup  to  taste. 

Norfolk  Punch. — Pare  thirty-two 
oranges,  and  the  same  number  of  lem- 
ons ;  infuse  the  peel  for  two  days  in 
a  large  bottle  or  jar  with  a  gallon  of 
brandy  (or  whiskey),  a  little  reduced 
in  strength ;  clarify  in  a  gallon  of 


THE    PRACTICAL    HOUSEKEEPER. 


water  four  pounds  of  sugar ;  when 
cold,  strain  the  brandy  (which  will  now 
be  a  tincture)  to  this  ;  add  the  juices 
of  the  oranges  and  lemons,  previously 
strained  and  bottled,  when  the  peel  is 
taken  off ;  cask  the  liquor,  or  put  it  in  a 
jar,  and  stop  it  well ;  in  six  weeks  it 
may  be  gently  poured,  or  drawn  off,  and 
bottled.  "  A  tincture  of  bruised  nutmegs 
and  cloves  may  be  added  to  this  com- 
pound ;  this  will  keep  any  length  of 
time,  and  in  any  climate. 

Victoria  or  3%d  Regiment  Punch. — 
Take  the  peel  of  two  dozen  lemons,  and 
steep  it  for  thirty-six  hours  in  two  quarts 
of  rum.  Pour  the  juice  of  the  lemons  on 
three  pounds  and  a  half  of  loaf  sugar. 
Add  two  quarts  of  brandy,  and  seven 
quarts  of  cold  water. 

Mix  these  together,  and  add  by  degrees 
two  quarts  of  boiling  milk,  stirring  it  well. 
Let  it  stand  four  hours. 

Strain  it  two  or  three  times  through 
a  flannel  jelly  bag,  till  perfectly  clear  ; 
bottle  and  cork  it  tight.  Age  improves 
it  very  much.  • 

Mills  Punch.— Mix  wine  or  brandy 
with  milk ;  sweeten  to  taste  ;  grate  nut- 
meg on  it. 

Wine  Punch. — Port  wine,  two  pints  ; 
arrack,  two  pints  ;  the  juice  of  twelve 
lemons  ;  sugar,  one  pound  ;  hot  water, 
six  pints. 

Tea  Punch. — Hot  tea,  two  pints  ;  ar- 
rack, thirteen  ounces ;  sugar,  four  ounces  ; 
flavored  by  rubbing  off  the  yellow  peel  of 
the  lemons. 

French  Punch. — Out  a  lemon  into  thin 
slices,  taking  out  the  seeds ;  boil  them  in 
water,  and  add  a  pinch  of  green  tea,  and 
let  it  infuse  five  minutes  ;  strain  the 
whole,  and  add  brandy  and  sugar  suffi- 
cient. 

Auld  Man's  Milk  of  Scotland,  or  Egg- 
nog  of  America. — Beat  the  yolks  and 
whites  of  six  eggs  separately  j  put  to  the 


beat  yolks  sugar  and  a  quart  of  new 
milk,  or  thin  sweet  cream  ;  add  to  this 
rum,  whiskey,  or  brandy,  about  half  a 
pint ;  put  in  the  whites  of  the  eggs 
whipped  up,  and  stir  the  whole  gently. 
It  may  be  flavored  with  nutmeg  or  rind 
of  lemon. 

Sangaree  is  a  kind  of  punch  frequently 
drunk  in  the  West  Indies,  and  is  com- 
posed of  one-third  Madeira  or  porter,  and 
two-thirds  water,  acidulated  with  lime 
juice  and  sweetened  with  sugar. 

Mulled  Cider. — Boil  a  quart  of  cider, 
watered,  if  too  strong,  with  cloves  and 
allspice.  Beat  six  eggs,  sweeten,  and 
add  them  to  the  boiling  cider,  with  a 
pint  or  more  of  cream.  Pour  the  liquor 
from  one  pitcher  to  another  till  it  has  a 
fine  froth,  and  serve  it  warm. 

Cherry  Bounce. — Take  twelve  pounds 
cherries,  mashed,  and  mixed  with  three 
pounds  sugar  :  add  two  gallons  whiskey. 
Put  it  into  a  closed  vessel,  shake  it  often, 
and  let  it  stand  four  months  before  bot- 
tling. 

WINES  AND  LIQUEURS. 

Ginger  Wine. — Take  fourteen  gallons 
of  water,  six  pounds  of  sugar,  four  ounces 
of  bruised  ginger,  and  the  whites  of  two 
eggs,  well  beaten ;  mix  Ijiem,  set  on  a 
fire,  boil  it  fifteen  minutes,  skim  it  well} 
and  when  cold,  pour  it  into  an  earthen 
vessel,  squeeze  in  the  juice  of  four  lemons, 
and  the  rinds  pared  exceedingly  thin,  put 
to  it  a  teacupful  of  ale-yeast,  let  it  work 
for  a  day  and  a  night,  then  turn  it  into  a 
cask,  bung  it  up,  and  in  a  fortnight  you 
may  bottle  it  off. 

Blackberry  Wine.— Put  some  ripe 
blackberries  into  a  large  vessel  with  a 
cock  in  it;  pour  on  as  much  boiling 
water  as  will  cover  them,  and  as  soon  as 
the  heat  will  permit,  bruise  them  well 
with  the  hand  till  all  the  berries  are 
broken,  cover  them,  and  in  about  three 
or  four  days,  when  the  berries  rise  to  the 


WINES. 


515 


top,  draw  off  the  clear  part  into  another 
vessel ;  add  to  every  ten  quarts  of  the 
liquor  one  pound  of  sugar,  stir  it  well  in, 
and  let  it  stand  a  week  or  ten  days  to 
work.  Draw  it  off  through  a  jelly  bag. 
Steep  four  ounces  of  isinglass  in  a  pint  of 
sweet  wine  for  twelve  hours,  then  boil  it 
slowly  till  dissolved,  put  it  in  a  gallon  of 
the  juice  ;  boil  them  together,  then  put 
all  together,  let  it  stand  a  few  days,  and 
bottle. 


^s.yj.5  ^^ 


Water  Cooler. 
To  preserve  Ice  twelve  hours. 

Cherry  Wine. — For  every  five  pints  of 
this  wine,  take  fifteen  pounds  of  cherries, 
and  two  of  currants ;  bruise  them  to- 
gether, mix  with  them  two-thirds  of  the 
kernels,  and  put  the  whole  of  the  cherries, 
currants,  and  kernels  into  a  barrel  with 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sugar  to  every 
pint  of  juice.  The  barrel  must  be  quite 
full ;  cover  the  barrel  w^th  vine  leaves 
and  sand  above  them,  and  let  it  stand  un- 
til it  has  done  working,  which  will  be  in 
about  three  weeks ;  then  stop  it  with  a 
bung,  and  in  two  months'  time  it  may  be 
bottled. 

Rhubarb  Wine.— The  leaf  stalks  of 
rhubarb  cut  in  pieces  as  for  tarts,  and 
bruised  with  a  wooden  mallet  to  express 
the  juice,  will  make  a  wine  equal  to 
green  gooseberry,  and  resembling  cham- 
pagne. 

Wine  made  from  mixed  fruits. — Take 
cherries,  raspberries,  and  black  and  white 


currants — of  each  an  equal  quantity.  To 
four  pounds  well  bruised  put  one  gallon 
of  water.  Steep  the  mass  three  days 
and  nights,  frequently  stirring  it  in  an 
open  vessel,  then  run  it  through  a  hair 
sievej  and  to  each  gallon  of  liquor  put 
three  pounds  sugar.  Let  it  stand  again 
three  days  and  nights,  stirred  often  and 
skimming  the  top ;  then  turn  it  into  a 
cask,  and  let  it  ferment  at  the  bunghole 
two  weeks.  To  every  nine  gallons  put 
one  quart  best  brandy,  and  fasten  down 
the  bung.  If  not  soon  clear  stir  in  a 
solution  of  isinglass, 

Black  Currant  Wine  (very  fine). — To 
every  three  quarts  of  juice  put  the  same 
of  water  unboiled,  and  to  every  three 
quarts  of  the  liquor  add  three  pounds  of 
very  pure  moist  sugar ;  put  it  into  a 
cask,  reserving  for  a  little  filling  up ;  put 
the  cask  in  a  warm  dry  room,  and  the 
liquor  will  ferment  of  itself;  skim  off  the 
refuse  when  the  fermentation  shall  be 
over,  and  fill  up  with  the  reserved  liquor ; 
when  it  has  ceased  working  pour  three 
quarts  of  brandy  to  forty  quarts  of  wine ; 
bung  it  close  for  nine  months,  then  bottle 
it,  and  drain  the  thick  part  through  a 
jelly-bag  until  it  be  clear,  and  bottle  that ; 
keep  it  ten  or  twelve  months.  This  re- 
cipe is  most  excellent.  The  wine  will 
keep  for  six  years. 

Gooseberry  Wine. — To  every  three 
pounds  of  gooseberries  put  a  pint  of 
spring  water  unboiled,  having  first  bruis- 
ed the  fruit  with  the  hands  in  a  tub; 
stir  them  very  well ;  let  them  stand  a 
whole  day,  then  strain  them  off,  and  to 
every  three  pounds  of  gooseberries  add  a 
pint  of  water,  and  one  pound  of  sugar 
dissolved  ;  let  it  stand  twenty -four  hours 
longer,  then  skim  the  head  clean  off,  and 
put  the  liquor  into  a  vessel,  and  the  scum 
into  a  flannel  bag,  adding  the  liquor  that 
drains  from  it  to  that  in  the  vessel ;  let 
it  work  two  or  three  days  before  stop- 
ping it  up  close,  and  allow  it  to  stand 


516 


THE    PRACTICAL,    HOUSEKEEPER. 


four  months  before  it  is  bottled.  When 
it  is  drawn  out  of  the  cask  it  should  not 
be  tapped  too  low. 

Green  Gooseberry  Wine. — Take  thirty- 
two  quarts  of  unripe  gooseberries  of  the 
green  kind,  bruise  them  well,  add  thirty- 
two  quarts  of  cold  water ;  let  them  stand 
for  twenty- four  hours ;  drain  the  goose- 
berries well  from  the  liquor  through  a 
sieve ;  put  three  pounds  and  a  half  of 
lump-sugar  to  every  gallon  of  liquor ;  put 
it  into  a  cask  with  a  bottle  of  the  best 
gin ;  let  it  stand  six  months,  and  then 
bottle  it. 

Frontiniac. — Boil  eighteen  pounds  of 
white  sugar  in  six  gallons  of  water  with 
two  whites  of  eggs  well  beaten.  Skim 
it,  and  put  in  a  quarter  peck  of  elder- 
flowers  ;  do  not  keep  them  on  the  fire ; 
when  nearly  cold,  stir  it,  and  add  six 
spbonfuls  of  lemon-juice  and  four  or  five 
of  yeast;  beat  the  whole  well  into  the 
liquor.  Stir  it  every  day,  put  six  pounds 
of  the  best  raisins,  stoned,  into  the  cask, 
and  tun  the  wine.  Stop  it  close,  and 
bottle  it  at  the  end  of  six  months.  This 
wine  requires  keeping. 

Elder  Wine. — Pour  four  quarts  of 
water  upon  eight  quarts  of  berries,  and 
let  it  stand  a  day  or  two  ;  then  boil  it 
for  about  an  hour,  strain  it,  and  put  three 
pounds  of  moist  sugar  to  every  gallon  of 
wine  ;"  then  add  one  ounce  of  cloves  and 
cinnamon,  with  two  ounces  of  ginger ; 
boil  it  again,  and  work  it  with  a  toast, 
dipped  in  yeast. 

Elder-flower  Wine.  —  Take  twelve 
pounds  of  loaf-sugar  and  six  pounds  of 
the  best  raisins,  cut  small,  and  boil  them 
in  six  gallons  of  water  for  one  hour. 
Then  take  half  a  peck  of  elder-flowers, 
when  ready  to  shake ;  put  them  into  the 
liquor,  when  it  is  nearly* cold,  with  four 
table-spoonfuls  of  fresh  yeast,  and  six  of 
lemon-juice.  Let  it  work  two  days  in 
the  tub,  then  strain  it,  put  it  into  the 


barrel,  bung  it  up  closely  for  two  months, 
and  then  bottle  it. 

These  are  excellent  domestic  wines, 
generally  taken  mulled,  with  dry  toast ; 
and  the  flavor  will  be  improved  if,  while 
warming,  a  grating  of  nutmeg  be  added 

Negus. — One  bottle  of  wine,  half  a 
pound  of  sugar,  and  a  lemon  sliced. 
Pour  three  pints  of  boiling  water  upon 
this  mixture,  and  grate  nutmeg  to  the 
taste. 

Such  is  the  common  mode  of  making 
negus  ;  for  making  a  single  tumblerful, 
however,  as  many  people  prefer  to  do  it 
in  their  own  way,  perhaps  a  better  plan 
is  to  use  only  half  the  quantity  of  water, 
poured  boiling  hot  upon  the  wine  already 
sweetened  and  flavored  with  nutmeg; 
but  having  in  it  also  a  large  and  very 
thin  cut  rind  of  orange,  which  gives 
it  a  very  superior  flavor,  without  any 
portion  of  the  acid. 

The- negus  may  be  made  of  either  white 
or  red  wine  ;  and,  if  drunk  cold,  is  called 
"  sangaree." 

The  following  is  a  French  receipt: — 
One  pound  of  cherries,  four  pounds  of 
currants,  two  pounds  of  black  cherries ; 
squeeze  all  together,  then  let  it  stand  in 
a  cool  cellar  for  three  days  ;  put  the  juice 
on  the  fire  in  a  preserving-pan,  and  allow 
it  to  bubble  ;  add  sugar  as  for  raspberry 
vinegar,  and  bottle  it.  This  makes  a  de- 
licious summer*  beverage. 

Noyau. — To  three  quarts  of  best  bran- 
dy or  spirits  put  three  pounds  of  white 
sugar  broken  small,  a  quarter  of  an  ounce 
of  cinnamon,  the  peel  of  two  lemons  and 
juice  of  one,  and  eight  ounces  bittej  al- 
monds ;  mix,  and  when  the  sugar  is  dis- 
solved, pour  in  a  pint  of  boiling  milk. 
Cover  close,  stir  it  every  day  for  three 
weeks,  and  filter  it  through  a  filtering 
paper.  It  may  be  necessary  to  add  a 
little  more  spirits. 

Elder  Wine — another  way. — To  three 
pounds  of  elderberries  put  one  pound  of 


PINK   AND   GRAPE   CHAMPAGNE. 


517 


damsons,  and  to  a  nine-gallon  cask  put  a 
pint  of  sloes.  Boil  two  gallons  of  water 
with  an  ounce  of  hops  for  an  hour  and  a 
half;  then  put  in  sugar,  such  as  four 
pounds  to  five  '  quarts  of  water  ;  keep 
skimming  as  it  rises,  and  then  set  it  to 
cool;  boil  the  fruit  for  half  an  hour, 
strain  the  juice,  and  put  a  quart  of  it  to 
every  gallon  of  water ;  then  let  it  work 
with  yeast  for  three  days ;  put  it  in  the 
barrel  and  stop  it  close.  The  spice  and 
sugar  to  be  put  according  to  taste.  When 
the  wine  has  stood  six  weeks  put  in  four 
pounds  of  stoned  raisins. 

Pink  Champagne. — Boil  nine  pounds 
of  lump-sugar  in  three  gallons  of  water 
for  half  an  hour,  skim  it  well,  and  pour 
the  liquor  boiling  hot  over  a  gallon  of  red 
and  white  currants  picked,  but  not  bruis- 
ed. When  nearly  cold,  put  in  a  small 
teacupful  of  yeast.  Keep  it  working  for 
two  days,  then  strain  it  through  a  hcjrse- 
hair  sieve,  put  it  into  a  small  cask  with 
half  an  ounce  of  isinglass.  Have  rather 
more  liquor  than  will  fill  the  cask  to  fill 
it  up  as  it  works  over.  In  about  a  fort- 
night bung  it  up.  Let  it  stand  till  April ; 
put  into  each  bottle  a  lump  of  double- 
refined  sugar.  Let  the  bottles  remain 
one  day  uncorked.  Cork  and  wire  them. 
They  must  stand  upright  in  the  cellar ; 
when  wanted,  put  a  few  on  their  sides 
for  about  a  week. 

Grape  Champagne  to  equal  foreign. — 
Gather  the  grapes  when  they  are  just 
turning,  or  about  half  ripe.  Pound  them 
in  a  tub,  and  to  every  quart  of  fruit  put 
two  quarts  of  water.  Let  it  stand  in  a 
mash-tub  for  fourteen  days,  then  draw  it 
off,  and  to  every  gallon  of  liquor  add  three 
pounds  of  lump-sugar.  When  the  sugar 
is  dissolved,  cask  it,  and,  after  it  has 
done  working,  bung  it  down.  In  about 
six  months  it  will  be  fit  to  drink,  when 
it  should  be  bottled,  and  the  corks  tied 
down,  or  wired  if  it  is  to  be  kept  more 
than  a  year. 

33 


COOKEKY  FOE  THE  SICK. 


Invalid's  Breakfast  Set 

IT  may  be  necessary  to  premise  that 
a  choice  should  be  made  of  those  things 
most  likely  to  agree  with  the  patient, 
and,  as  invalids  require  variety  to  indulge 
their  appetite,  frequent  changes  should 
be  provided,  but  great  simplicit}7"  ob- 
served in  the  preparation.  Perhaps  jel- 
lies and  meat  broths,  together  with  vari- 
ous kinds  of  farinaceous  food,  are  the 
lightest  on  the  stomach,  as  well  as,  gen- 
erally speaking,  the  most  nutritious. 

A  Good  Jelly. — Soak  twelve  shanks  of 
mutton  four  hours,  then  brush  and  scour 
them  very  clean.  Lay  them  in  a  sauce- 
pan with  three  blades  of  mace,  an  onion, 
twenty  Jamaica  and  thirty  or  forty  black 
peppers,  a  bunch  of  sweet  herbs,  and  a 
crust  of  bread  made  very  brown  by 
toasting.  Pour  three  quarts  of  water  to 
them,  and  set  them  on  a  hot  hearth  close 
covered ;  let  them  simmer  as  gently  as 
possible  for  five  hours,  then  strain  it  off, 
and  put  it  in  a  cold  place. 

This  may  have  the  addition  of  a  pound 
of  beef,  if  approved,  for  flavor.  It  is  a 
remarkably  good  thing  for  people  who 
are  weak. 

Sheep's  heads  and  trotters  are  also 
good  restoratives ;  savory  jelly  may  also 
be  made  in  the  same  manner,  without 
lemon,  wine,  or  sugar,  but  flavored  with 
ham  and  spice. 


518 


THE   PRACTICAL    HOUSEKEEPER. 


Dr.  RatcliffPs  Pork  Jelly. — Take  a  leg 
of  well-fed  pork,  just  as  cut  up ;  beat  it, 
and  break  the  bone.  Set  it  over  a  gentle 
fire  with  three  gallons  of  water,  and 
simmer  to  one.  Let  half  an  ounce  of 
mace  and  ^he  same  of  nutmegs  stew  in 
it.  Strain  through  a  fine  sieve.  When 
cold,  take  off  the  fat.  Give  a  coffee- 
cupful  the  first  and  last  thing,  and  at 
noon,  putting  salt  to  taste. 

Lambs'  feet  are  very  nutritious ;  pur- 
chase them  ready  cleaned ;  lay  them  ten 
minutes  in  boiling  water,  by  doing 
which  you  will  be  able  to  draw  out  the 
leg-bone  with  facility  ;  then  put  them  in 
a  stewpan  (two  would  be  sufficient),  and 
pour  over  a  pint  of  water  with  which 
you  have  mixed  smoothly  a  table-spoon- 
ful of  flour,  and  half  a  tcaspoonful  of  salt ; 
place  them  upon  the  fire,  stirring  fre- 
quently until  boiling,  then  add  a  small 
onion,  with  celery,  parsley,  and  parsnip ; 
boil  gently  for  two  hours,  and  when  done, 
serve  plain  upon  a  plate,  or  with  a  little 
melted  butter  and  parsley  poured  over. 
By  using  a  little  white  broth  from  any 
meat,  instead  of  water,  you  make  a  deli- 
cious soft  soup,  which  may  be  partaken 
of  freely. 

Calves'  feet  are  dressed  in  the  same 
manner,  but  using  a  double  proportion  of 
every  thing,  and  stewing  them  double  the 
time ;  they  are  served  precisely  the  same. 

Seal  Essence  of  Beef.  —  Take  one 
pound  of  beefsteak,  cut  it  into  thin 
slices,  which  scrape  fine ;  put  it  into  a 
stewpan,  and  stir  over  the  fire  five  or 
ten  minutes,  until  thoroughly  warmed 
through,  then  add  half  a  pint  of  water, 
cover  the  stewpan  as  tightly  as  possible, 
and  let  it  remain  close  to  the  fire  or  in  a 
warm  oven  for  twenty  minutes;  then 
pass  it  through  a  sieve,  pressing  the  meat 
with  a  spoon  to  extract  all  the  essence. 

Strengthening  Jelly.  —  Take  two 
pounds  of  gravy-beef,  cut  into  small 
pieces  j  put  the  pieces  into  a  jar,-  cover 


close,  and  stand  the  jar  in  a  saucepan  of 
water ;  let  it  simmer  from  four  to  six 
hours.  This  I  have  made  from  either 
beef  or  veal.  I  have  found  it  invaluable 
in  cases  of  sickness,  and  it  will  be  found 
that  the  real  essence  of  the  meat  is  ex- 
tracted. 

A  Clear  Broth  that  will  keep  long. — 
Put  the  mouse-round  of  beef,  a  knuckle- 
bone of  veal,  and  a  few  shanks  of  mut- 
ton, into  a  deep  pan,  and  cover  close 
with  a  dish  or  coarse  crust ;  bake  till 
the  beef  is  done  enough  for  eating  with 
only  as  much  water  as  will  cover  it. 
When  the  broth  is  cold,  cover  it  close, 
and  keep  it  in  a  cool  place.  When  it  is 
to  be  used,  give  what  flavor  may  be  best 
liked.  Co  wheels  make  good  broth. 

For  a  quick-made  Broth,  take  a  bone 
or  two  of  a  neck  or  loin  of  mutton,  take 
off  the  fat  and  skin,  set  it  on  the  fire  in 
a  small  tin  saucepan  that  has  a  cover, 
with  three-quarters  of  a  pint  of  water, 
the  meat  being  first  beaten  and  cut  in 
thin  bits ;  put  a  bit  of  thyme  and  pars-  * 
ley,  and,  if  approved,  a  slice  of  onion. 
Let  it  boil  very  quickly ;  skim  it ;  take 
off  the  cover  if  likely  to  be  too  weak, 
else  cover  it.  Half  an  hour  is  sufficient 
for  the  whole  process. 

Lielig's  Beef  Tea. — Chop  a  pound  of 
lean  beef  as  fine  as  for  sausage-meat — . 
mix  with  a  pint  of  cold  water — put  it 
over  a  slow  fire — when  it  has  boiled  five 
minutes^  strain  through  a  coarse  cloth. 
Salt  to  taste. 

Chicken  Broth. — Boil  a  chicken  in  a 
quart  of  water  till  about  three  parts 
cooked,  or  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour ; 
remove  the  skin  and  the  rump,  and  put 
it  into  the  water  it  was  boiled  in,  with  a 
slice  of  onion,  ten  white  peppercorns, 
and  a  blade  of  mace ;  then  simmer  until 
it  has  a  good  flavor.  Beat  a  quarter  of 
an  ounce  of  blanched  sweet  almonds 
with  a  teaspoonful  of  water,  till  of  a 


COOKEBY  FOR  THE   SICK. 


519 


good  consistence  and  fine,  add  this  paste 
to  the  broth,  simmer  for  a  minute,  then 
remove,  strain,  and  set  aside  to  get  cold. 
When  quite  cold,  remove  the  fat,  and 
warm  the  broth  again  ;  season  with  salt, 
and  serve  in  a  broth  basin,  with  toast 
dice  on  a  plate. 

Panada  is  merely  a  preparation  of 
bread  made  up  in  various  ways. 

To  make  it  in  five  minutes. — Set  a  lit- 
tle water  on  the  fire  with  a  glass  of  white 
wine,  some  sugar,  and  a  scrape  of  nut- 
meg and  lemon-peel:  meanwhile  grate 
some  crumbs  of  bread.  The  moment 
the  mixture  boils  up,  keeping  it  still  on 
the  fire,  put  the  crumbs  in,  and  let  it  boil 
as  fast  as  it  can.  When  of  a  proper 
thickness  just  to  drink,  take  it  off. 

Or  : — Put  to  the  water  a  bit  of  lemon- 
peel,  mix  the  crumbs  in,  and,  when  nearly 
boiled  enough,  put  some  lemon  or  orange 
syrup.  Observe  to  boil  all  the  ingre- 
dients, for,  if  any  be  added  after,  the 
panada  will  break  and  not  jelly. 

CJiitiken  Panada. — Boil  a  chicken  till 
about  three  parts  ready  in  a  quart  of 
water ;  take  off  the  skin,  cut  the  white 
meat  off  when  cold,  and  put  into  a  mar- 
ble mortar :  pound  it  to  a  paste  with  a 
little  of  the  water  it  was  boiled  in,  sea- 
son with  salt,  a  grate  of  nutmeg,  and  the 
least  bit  of  lemon-peel.  Boil  gently  for 
a  few  minutes  to  the  consistency  you 
like  ;  it  should  be  such  as  you  can  drink, 
though  tolerably  thick. 

This  conveys  great  nourishment  in  a 
small  compass. 

Sippets. — On  an  extremely  hot  plate 
put  two  or  three  sippets  of  bread,  and 
pour  over  them  some  gravy  from  beef, 
mutton,  or  veal,  with  which  no  butter 
has  been  mixed.  Sprinkle  a  little  salt 
over. 

Port  Wine  Jelly.— Melt  in  a  little 
warm  water  an  ounce  of  isinglass ;  stir  it 
into  a  pint  of  port  wine,  adding  two 


ounces  of  sugar-candy,  an  ounce  of  gum 
arabic,  and  a  nutmeg  grated.  Mix  it  all 
well,  and  boil  it  ten  minutes ;  or  till 
every  thing  is  thoroughly  dissolved. 
Then  strain  it  through  muslin,  and  set  it 
away  to  get  cold.  For  rice,  jelly,  having* 
picked  and  washed  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  rice,  mix  it  with  half  a  pound  of  loaf 
sugar,  and  just  sufficient  water  to  cover 
it.  Boil  it  till  it  becomes  a  glutinous 
mass ;  then  strain  it ;  season  it  with 
whatever  may  be  thought  proper,  and 
then  let  it  stand  to  cool. 

Caudle  is  made  in  various  ways.  Make 
a  fine  smooth  gruel  of -half-grits  ;  strain 
it  when  boiled  well ;  stir  it  at  different 
times  till  cold.  When  to  be  used,  add 
sugar,  wine,  and  lemonpeel,  with  nutmeg. 
Some  like  a  spoonful  of  brandy  besides  the 
wine  ;  others  like  lemon-juice. 

Another. — Into  a  pint  of  fine  gruel> 
not  thick,  put,  while  it  is  boiling-hot,  the 
yolk  of  an  egg  beaten  with  sugar,  and 
mixed  with  a  large  spoonful  of  cold 
water,  a  glass  of  wine,  and  nutmeg.  Mix 
by  degrees.  It  is  very  agreeable  and 
nourishing.  Some  like  gruel  with  a 
glass  of  table-beer,  sugar,  &c.,  with  or 
without  a  teaspoonful  of  brandy. 

Dr.  Boerhaave'1  s  Sweet  Buttermilk. — 
Take  the  milk  from  the  cow  into  a 
small  churn  ;  in  ten  minutes  begin,  and 
churn  till  flakes  of  butter  swim  about 
thick,  and  the  milk  appears  thin  and  blue ; 
strain  it  through  a  sieve.  It  should 
form  the  patient's  drink,  with  biscuits, 
rusk,  ripe  and  dried  fruits,  &c. 

Flour  Caudle. — Into  five  large  spoon- 
fuls of  water  rub  smooth  one  dessert- 
spoonful of  fine  flour.'  Set  over  the  fire 
five  spoonfuls  of  new  milk,  and  put  two 
bits  of  sugar  into  it ;  the  moment  it  boils 
pour  into  it  the  flour  and  water,  and  stir 
it  over  a  slow  fire  twenty  minutes.  It  is 
a  nourishing  and  gently  astringent  food. 
This  is  an  excellent  food  for  babies  who 
have  weak  bowels. 


520 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


Apple  Paste. — Pare  your  apples  and 
cut  them  down.  Weigh  them,  and  allow 
an  equal  quantity  of  white  sugar ;  put 
them  into  a  jar,  and  boil  till  quite  soft. 
Boil  your  sugar  to  a  syrup,  then  drop  in 
vthe  apples  with  a  teacupful  of  marmal- 
ade and  a  little  grated  ginger ;  let  them 
simmer  ten  minutes.  Wet  your  shapes 
with  spirits,  and  dish  them.  They  will 
turn  out  firm,  and  keep  for  years.  The 
apples  must  leput  into  cold  water  as  they 
are  pared.  The  proportion  of  water  is  a 
breakfast  cupful  to  two  pounds  of 
sugar. 

To  Bake  Apples. — Sweet  apples  proper- 
ly baked  and  eaten  with  milk  are  excel- 
lent. The  best  method  of  baking  tart 
apples  is,  to  take  the  fairest  and  largest  in 
size,  wipe  them  clean  if  thin  skinned,  and 
pare  them  if  the  skin  is  thick  and  tough. 
Cut  out  the  largest  portion  of  the  core 
from  one  end,  and  place  the  fruit  on  well 
glazed  earthen  dishes  or  pans,  with  the 
end  which  has  been  cored  upwards,  and 
fill  the  cavity  with  refined  powdered 
sugar.  Then  place  them  in  the  oven  or 
other  apparatus  for  baking  until  sufficient- 
ly cooked.  Take  them  out  and  when 
cold  they  are  perfectly  delicious. 

Apple  Tapioca  (a  new  receipt  for  in- 
valids).— Pare,  core,  and  quarter  eight 
apples ;  take  half  a  spoonful  of  tapioca ; 
put  it  to  soak  and  swell  all  night  in  the 
water ;  put  in  half  a  teacupful  of  white 
sugar,  and  a  little  lemon-peel ;  put  this 
into  a  stewpan  and  let  the  tapioca  simmer 
ten  minutes,  then  put  in  the  apples  and 
stew  ten  minutes  more.  When  the 
tapioca  is  clear,  it  will  form  a  jelly  around 
the  apples. 

Chicken  Jelly. — For  chicken  jelly  take 
a  large  chicken,  cut  it  up  into  very  small 
pieces,  bruise  the  bones,  and  put  the 
whole  into  a  stone  jar  with  a  cover  that 
will  make  it  water-tight.  Set  the  jar  in 
a  large  kettle  of  boiling  water,  and  keep 
it  boiling  for  four  hours.  Then  strain 


off  the  liquid,  and  season  it  slightly  with 
salt,  pepper,  and  mace;  or  with  loaf- 
sugar  and  lemon-juice,  according  to  the 
taste  of  the  person  for  whom  it  is  in- 
tended. Return  the  fragments  of  the 
chicken  to  the  jar,  and  set  it  again  in  a 
kettle  of  boiling  water.  You  will  find 
that  you  can  collect  nearly  as  much  jelly 
by  the  second  boiling.  This  jelly  may  be 
made  of  an  old  fowl. 

Baked  Milk, — Mix  new  milk  with 
buttermilk,  in  the  proportion  of  a  pint 
of  the  former  to  a  winegiassful  of  the 
latter.  Let  it  stand  in  a  covered  jar,  be- 
fore the  fire,  all  night ;  in  the  morning  it 
will  be  as  thick  as  clotted  cream.  Pour 
from  one  jar  to  another  till  it  is  again  of 
the  consistency  of  new  milk ;  put  it  into 
a  stone  bottle,  tightly  corked  ;  add  a  few 
lumps  of  white  sugar ;  let  it  again  stand 
before  the  fire,  (not  too  near,)  for  five  or 
six  hours,  it  will  then  be  ready  to  drink. 
Care  must  be  taken  in  opening  the  bottle, 
as  it  sometimes  effervesces.  Besides 
forming  a  very  wholesome  and  strength- 
ening drink,  it  is  a  most  delicious  and  re- 
freshing beverage  in  summer.  Invalids 
should  take  about  a  pint  a  day.  If  it  is 
at  all  acid,  it  has  not  been  properly  made, 
and  should  not  be  taken. 

Asses'1  Milk  far  surpasses  any  imita- 
tation  of  it  that  can  be  made.  It  should 
be  milked  into  a  glass  that  is  kept  warm 
by  being  in  a  basin  of  hot  water. 

The  fixed  air  that  it  contains  gives 
some  people  a  pain  in  the  stomach.  At 
first  a  teaspoonful  of  rum  may  be  taken 
with  it.  but  should  only  be  put  in  the 
moment  it  is  to  be  swallowed.  The  ani- 
mal should  always  be  milked  at  the  door. 

Artificial  Asses'*  Milk. — Mix  two  spoon- 
fuls of  boiling  water,  two  of  milk,  and 
an  egg  well  beaten ;  sweeten  with  pound- 
ed white  sugar-candy.  This  may  be  taken 
twice  or  thrice  a  day. 

Wine   Whey. — Stir  into  a  pint  of  boil- 


COOKERY   FOR   THE    SICK. 


521 


mg  milk  a  couple  of  glasses  of  wine.  Let 
it  boil  a  minute,  then  take  it  from  the 
fire,  and  let  it  remain  till  tne  curd  has 
settled ;  then  turn  off  the  whSy,  and 
sweeten  it  with  white  sugar. 

Toast  Water.— Pare  the  crust  off  a 
thin  slice  of  stale  bread,  toast  it  brown 
upon  both  sides,  doing  it  equally  and 
slowly,  that  it  may  harden  without  being 
burnt ;  put  it  into  a  jug,  and  pour  upon 
it  boiling  water ;  cover  the  jug  with  a 
saucer,  and  set  it  in  a  cool  place. 


Rice  Gruel. — Put  a  large  spoonful  of 
unground  rice  into  six  gills  of  boiling  wa- 
ter, with  a  stick  of  cinnamon  or  mace. 
Strain  it  when  boiled  soft,  and  add  half 
a  piat  of  new  milk ;  put  in  a  tea-spoon- 
ful of  salt,  and  boil  it  a  few  minutes 
longer.  If  you  wish  to  make  the  gruel 
of  rice  flour,  mix  a  table-spoonful  of  it 
smoothly,  with  three  of  cold  water,  and 
stir  it  into  a  quart  of  boiling  water.  Let 
it  boil  five  or  six  minutes,  stirring  it 
constantly.  Season  it  with  salt,  a  little 
butter,  and  add,  if  you  like,  nutmeg  and 
white  sugar. 

Water  Gruel. — IVJix  a  couple  of  table- 
spoonfuls  of  Indian'  meal  with  one  of 
wheat  flour,  and  sufficient  cold  water  to 
make  a  thick  batter.  If  the  gruel  is 
liked  thick,  stir  it  into  a  pint  of  boiling 
water — if  liked,  thin,  more  water  will  be 
necessary.  Season  the  gruel  with  salt, 
and  let  it  boil  six  or  eight  minutes,  stir- 
ring it  frequently — then  take  it  from  the 
fire,  put  in  a  piece  of  wbutter,  of  the  size 
of  a  walnut,  and  pepper  to  the  taste. 
Turn  it  on  toasted  bread,  cut  in  small 
pieces. 


Molasses  Posset. — Put  into  a  saucepan 
a  pint  of  the  best  West  India  molasses,  a 
teaspoonful  of  powdered  white  ginger, 
and  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fresh  butter. 
Set  it  on  hot  coals,  and  simmer  it  slowly 
for  half  an  hour,  stirring  it  frequently. 
Do  not  let  it  come  to  a  boil.  Then  stir 
in  the  juice  of  two  lemons,  or  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  vinegar  ;  cover  the  pan,  and 
let  it  stand  by  the  fire  five  minutes  long- 
er. This  is  good  for  a  cold.  Some  of  it 
may  be  taken  warm  at  once,  and  the  re- 
mainder kept  at  hand  for  occasional  use. 

Wine  Posset. — Boil  some  slices  of 
white  bread  in  a  pint  of 'milk  ;  when  soft 
take  it  off  the  fire,  and  grate  in  some  nut- 
meg and  a  little  sugar  j  pour  it  out, 
put  half  a  pint  of  sweet  wine  into  it  by 
degrees,  and  serve  it  with  toasted  bread. 

Balm  Mint,  and  other  Teas. — These 
are  simple  infusions,  the  strength  of 
which  can  only  be  regulated  by  the 
taste.  .  They  are  made  by  putting-  either 
the  fresh  or  the  dried  plants  into  boiling 
water  in  a  covered  vessel,  which  should 
be  placed  near  the  fire  for  an  hour.  The 
young  shoots  both  of  balm  and  of  mint 
are  to  be  preferred,  on  account  of  their 
strong  aromatic  qualities.  These  infu- 
sions may  be  drunk  freely  in  feverish  and 
in  various  other  complaints,  in  which  di- 
luents are  recommended.  Mint  tea  made 
with  the  fresh  leaves,  is  useful  in  allay- 
ing nausea  and  vomiting. 

Tapioca  Jelly. — Take  four  table-spoon- 
fuls of  tapioca — rinse  it  thoroughly,  then 
soak  it  five  hours,  in  cold  water  enough 
to  cover  it.  Seta  pint  of  cold  water  on  the 
fire — when  it  boils,  mash  and  stir  up  the 
tapioca  that  is  in  water,  and  mix  it  with 
the  boiling  water.  Let  the  whole  sim- 
mer gently,  with  a  stick  of  cinnamon  or 
mace.  When  thick  and  clear,  mix  a 
couple  of  table-spoonfuls  of  white  sugar, 
with  half  a  table-spoonful  of  lemon-juice, 
and  half  a  glass  of  white  wine — stir  it 
into  the  jelly ;  if  not  sweet  enough,  add 


522 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


more    sugar,  and    turn    the  jelly  into 
cups. 

Mulled  Wine. — Boil  a  pint  of  wine  with 
nutmeg,  cloves,  and  sugar,  serve  it  with 
slices  of  toasted  bread  ;  or,  beat  up  the 
yolks  of  four  eggs  with  a  little  cold  wine, 
and  mix  them  carefully  with  the  hot 
wine,  pour  it  backwards  and  forwards 
till  it  looks  fine,  heat  it  again  over  the 
fife  till  it  is  tolerably  thick,  pour  it  back- 
wards and  forwards,  and  serve  with 
toasted  bread  as  above. 

Or, — Boil  some  spice  in1  a  little  water 
till  the  flavor  is  extracted,  then  add  a 
pint  of  port  wine;  with  some  sugar  and 
nutmeg. 

Brandy  Mixture. — Mix  a  gill  of  brandy, 
and  the  same  quantity  of  cinnamon  wa- 
ter, with  the  yolks  of  two  eggs,  half  an 
ounce  of  powdered  white  sugar,  and  two 
drops  of  oil  of  cinnamon.  This  is  a  valu- 
able restorative  in  cases  of  extreme  ex- 
haustion, given  at  intervals  of  ten  to  fif- 
teen minutes,  in  doses  of  from  one  to 
three  table-spoonfuls. 

Sago  Gruel. — Macerate  an  ounce  (or  a 
table-spoonful)  of  sago  in  a  pint  of 
water  for  two  hours,  then  boil  for  a 
quarter  of  an  hour,  taking  care  to  stir 
it  well ;  sweeten  with  sugar,  and  add 
lemon-juice,  nutmeg,  or  ginger,  and  white 
wine  if  allowed. 

Caudle,  York. — Take  a  pint  of  new 
milk,  turn  it  with  wine,  then  strain,  and 
put  it  into  a  saucepan  with  two  blades  of 
mace,  three  slices  of  white  bread,  and  a 
little  grated  nutmeg.  Boil  over  a  slow 
fire,  then  beat  the  yolks  of  four  eggs,  and 
the  whites  of  two ;  stir  into  the  caudle 
to  thicken,  taking  care  to  stir  one  way 
for  fear  of  curdling  it  j  sweeten  to  taste, 
and  serve  warm. 

Flax-seed  Lemonade. — Boil  some  flax- 
seed  in  water  until  it  becomes  a  thick 
syrup.  To  a  table-spoonful  of  flax-seed 
allow  about  two  tumblers  full  of  water. 


Strain  it  through  a  cloth  and  mix  with  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  white  sugar.  Then 
stir  in  a  little  lemon  juice.  This  mix- 
ture has  frequently  been  very  service- 
able in  relieving  a  cold.  A  little  of  it 
may  be  taken  whenever  the  cough  is 
troublesome.  A  little  gum  arabic  added 
to  the  syrup  will  be  an  improvement. 

Cocoa. — To  two  ounces  of  cocoa  allow 
a  quart  of  water.  Put  it  in  a  saucepan 
and  let  it  boil  slowly  for  about  an  hour. 
The  cocoa  shells  boiled  in  this  manner 
will  make  a  very  pleasant  beverage,  and 
will  not  be  so  rich  as  the  ground  cocoa. 

Barley  Water. — Wash  carefully  two 
ounces  of  barley  and  put  it  into  a  sauce- 
pan with  a  quart  of  water  and  a  few  rai- 
sins. Let  it  boil  until  the  liquid  is  about 
half  diminished.  Sweeten  it  and  drink  it 
hfct.  A  little  lemon-peel  or  some  liquor- 
ice root  put  in  with  the  barley  instead 
of  or  with  the  raisins,  and  some  sliced  figs, 
may  please  some  tastes.  When  only 
a  drink  is  required,  it  is  better  to  strain 
the  liquid  ;  but  the  boiled  barley  wi£h  a 
little  sugar  will  make  a  very  pleasing 
variety  for  an  invalid  to  eat  instead  of 
rice. 

Ground  Rice  Mills. — Boil  together  two 
table-spoonfuls  of  ground  rice  with  a  pint 
of  milk.  Sweeten  it  according  to  your 
taste,  adding  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon. 
Let  the  whole  boil  half  an  hour  over  a 
moderate  fire.  Eat  it  warm. 

Compound  Camomile  Tea. — Twenty 
camomile  flowers,  half  the  thin  peel  of 
a  lemon,  four  cloves  :  pour  on  them  a 
coffee  cup  of  boiling  water,  cover  and  let 
them  stand  all  night.  Strain  the  liquor 
in  the  morning.  A  wine  glass  full  may 
be  taken  a  little  before  breakfast.  Dr. 
Maton  always  recommended  this,  with  a 
teasptonful  of  salvolatile  for  indigestion. 

Elder  Flower  Tea. — Infuse  the  dried 
flowers  as  common  tea  is  made.  A  little 
acid  with  sugar  will  make  the  taste  plea- 
sant. (To  promote  perspiration.) 


COOKEKT   FOB   THE   SICK. 


523 


Dandelion  and  Parsley  Tea. — Wash 
and  scrape  six  dandelion  roots  and  six 
of  parsley  j  pour  on  them  a  pint  of  boil- 
ing water  ;  let  it  infuse  three  hours  be- 
fore the  fire.  A  little  salt  or  saltpetre 
may  be  added.  (Lady  Gush  prescribes 
this  in  dropsy  ;  it  acts  on  the  kidneys.) 

The  flowers  of  any  plant  should  be 
dried  in  every  case. 

Rice  Water. — Boil  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  rice  in  three  pints  of  water  till  soft  as 
a  paste,  skimming  it  well.  Strain  the 
liquor,  and  sweeten  it  with  sugar  or 
honey.  Apples  or  lemon  peel  may  be 
boiled  with  the  rice,  or  lemon  juice  add- 
ed. It  is  an  excellent  drink  in  cases  of 
diarrhoaa. 

Cream  of  Tartar  Water. — Put  a  large 
spoonful  of  cream  of  tartar  into  a  quart 
pitcher,  with  an  ounce  of  gum  arabic  and 
thin  lemon  peel.  Pour  boiling  water  on 
it,  and  let  it  stand  some  hours  j  sweeten 
to  taste. 

Imperial  may  be  made  with  two  ounces 
cream  of  tartar  and  the  juice  and  peel  of 
two  lemons  ;  put  in  a  jar  with  seven 
quarts  of  boiling  water.  When  cold, 
half  a  pint  of  spirits  may  be  added  to 
keep  it.  Sweeten  to  taste  and  bottle  it. 

MarsJi  Mallow  Emulsion. — Slice  the 
dried  roots  of  marsh  mallows,  and  boil  four 
ounces  with  one  and  a  half  ounce  chop- 
ped raisins  in  a  quart  of  water.  When 
it  is  boiled  till  there  is  a  good  sediment, 
strain  it,  and  sweeten  with  water.  Add 
water  to  taste. 

Linseed  Emulsion. — One  ounce  lin- 
seed, two  drachms  liquorice  root  sliced 
and  bruised ;  a  pint  of  boiling  water. 
Let  it  stand  four  Hours  by  the  fire  j  then 
strain  it. 

Rennet  Whey. — Infuse  a  piece  of  the 
skin  in  a  little  boiling  water,  as  for  mak- 
ing cheese  ;  let  it  stand  an  hour  or  two  j 
then  put  a  table-spoonful  to  three  pints 
of  new  milk,  warmed ;  cover  with  a 


cloth,  and  leave  it  until  the  curd  is  thick. 
Press  out  and  use  the  whey. 

Iceland  Moss  Jelly. — Wash  and  bruise 
Iceland  moss,  and  soak  it  all  night ;  dry 
and  boil  it — putting  an  ounce  to  a  quart 
— till  reduced  to  one-half  the  quantity  of 
water  ;  strain  it  through  a  sieve.  Take 
it  with  milk  or  wine,  or  flavored  to  taste. 
Carageen,  or  Irish  moss  jelly  can  be 
made  the  same  way. 

Blancmange. — Take  gelatine,  or  isin- 
glass, two  ounces  to  one  and  a  half 
pints  water ;  dissolve  it,  add  a  pint  of 
milk,  and  strain  it ;  flavor  and  sweeten 
it,  and  let  it  boil  up  ;  then  turn  it  into  a 
mould. 

Rice  Blancmange. — Boil  as  much 
ground  rice  in  a  pint  of  milk  as  will 
make  it  thick  enough  to  turn  out  of  a 
mould,  sweetening  and  flavoring  it.  A 
sauce  can  be  added  of  milk,  cream,  or 
custard. 

Somersetshire  Fromity. — Wash  a  quart 
of  wheat,  and  boil  it  soft ;  add  by  degrees 
two  quarts  new  milk  ;  boil  it  till  soft 
and  mixed  ;  then  add  the  yolks  of  a  few 
eggs,  well  beaten,  nutmeg,  sugar,  and  a 
little  ginger,  with  currants  or  chopped 
raisins,  if  approved  for  the  invalid. 

Baked  Pears. — Put  into  a  pint  of  wa- 
ter some  mace,  cinnamon,  and  a  few 
cloves  ;  boil  them  j  add  a  pint  of  white 
wine,  and  the  juice  of  two  oranges,  and 
sweeten  with  loaf  sugar.  Cut  some 
baking  pears  into  halves  or  quarters  ;  put 
them  into  the  syrup,  and  then  into  a 
moderately  heated  oven,  or  a  stewpan 
over  the  fire.  Cover  and  cook  them  till 
soft.  Serve  them  with  the  liquor.  They 
will  keep  in  jars.  Pears  are  excellent 
baked  in  molasses  with  a  little  water 
added. 

Millet  Pudding. — Wash  the  millet ; 
simmer  two  table-spoonfuls  with  a  little 
butter  in  a  pint  and  a  half  of  milk.  Two 
or  three  beaten  eggs  may  be  added.  The 


524 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


sugar  and  flavoring  must  be  put  in  while 
the  milk  is  boiling.    Bake  or  boil  it. 

Ground  Rice  Pudding. — One  and  a 
half  pints  new  milk,  with  flavoring  of 
coriander  seeds,  cinnamon,  lemon-peel, 
and  sugar.  Boil  a  few  minutes,  strain  it 
upon  two  ounces  ground  rice  and  boil 
twelve  minutes.  Add  not  quite  an  ounce 
of  fresh  butter,  a  little  salt,  and  three 
beaten  eggs.  Bake  in  a  dish  or  boil  it. 

Barley  flour  may  be  substituted  for 
the  rice. 

Calf s  Feet  Pudding. — Calf's  feet 
minced,  taking  off  the  brown  and  fat, 
one  and  a  half  suet  minced,  yolks  of  six 
and  whites  of  four  eggs,  the  crumb  of  a 
roll,  a  little  sugar,  and  a  few  chopped 
raisins.  Add  milk  enough  to  moisten  it, 
and  boil  it  eight  or  nine  hours.  Serve 
with  any  sauce. 

Marrow  Pudding. — One  pint  milk 
boiled  with  cinnamon  and  lemon-peel, 
with  a  pinch  of  salt,  quarter  of  a  pound 
beef's  marrow  minced  fine,  slices  of 
citron  and  orange  peel,  grated  nutmeg, 
half  a  pound  sponge  cake,  a  little  sugar, 
a  glass  of  wine  or  brandy,  and  two  eggs. 
Bake  it. 

Dr.  Jophsorfs  Soup. — Cut  into  pieces  a 
pound  of  lean  veal,  the  same  of  beef,  with 
water  to  cover  them,  in  an  earthen  jar. 
Tie  it  down,  add  salt,  and  simmer  in  a 
water  bath  twenty-four  hours. 

Essence  of  Heat,  or  Glaize.—Put  two 
pounds  meat,  of  bird  or  animal,  into  a 
bottle,  and  that  into  a  pan  of  water.  Let 
it  boil  fifteen  minutes.  Strain  the  liquor 
that  comes  out.  It  will  keep  in  a  skin, 
and  can  be  diluted  for  broths  or  gravies 
or  soups. 

Marrow  Toast. — Boiled  marrow  spread 
on  toast  with  a  little  salt,  is  said  to  be 
good  in  allaying  vomiting  from  irritation, 
after  the  operation  of  an  emetic,  or  any 
other  cause. 

Kedgeree.— Boil  soft  a  tea-cupful  of 
rice  j  chop  a  boiled  whitefish  to  pieces, 


take  out  the  bones  ;  add  the  rice,  with 
three  ounces  of  butter.  Stir  it  on  the 
fire,  and  add  salt  and  cayenne  pepper, 
with  chopped  hard  boiled  eggs.  Serve 
it  dry  and  hot. 

Ground  Rice  Paste. — Boil  a  quarter 
of  a  pound  in  a  little  water,  strain  and 
beat  it  in  a  mortar  with  one  egg,  a  small 
lump  of  butter  and  a  pinch  of  salt  ; 
mould  the  paste  as  for  tarts,  and  bake 
sweetmeats  in  it. 

Arrow-Root  Transparent  Jelly.— Put 
a  good  teaspoonful  of  arrow-root  into  a 
basin,  which  mix  smoothly  with  two 
spoonfuls  of  water,  then  add  enough 
boiling  water  to  make  it  about  the  con- 
sistency, of  starch,  stirring  all  the  time ; 
pour  it  into  a  stewpan.  and  stir  over  the 
fire  until  it  has  boiled  two  minutes  ;  add 
a  little  cream,  a  small  -glass  of  wine,  and 
a  little  sugar,  and  serve. 

Lemonade. — Pour  one  quart  of  boiling 
water  on  the  rinds  of  six  lemons,  and  let 
it  stand  for  three  or  four  hours  ;  add  the 
juice  of  the  lemons  with  three-quarters 
of  a  pound  of  sugar  ;  simmer  it  well  and 
skim  it ;  then  add  another  quart  of  boil- 
ing water.  Either  run  it  through  a  jelly- 
bag,  or  mix  a  glass  of  calf's-foot  jelly, 
which  will  make  it  rich. 

Tamarind^  or  Cranberry  Juice,  with 
double  the  quantity  of  water,  also  form 
a  pleasant  drink  for  an  invalid,  when  ap- 
proaching to  convalescence. 

Almond  Water. — Blanch  five  ounces 
of  sweet  and  two  of  bitter  almonds, 
pound  them  in  a  mortar,  adding  a  few 
drops  of  water  occasionally,  to  prevent 
their  becoming  oily,  set  a  pint  of  syrup 
to  boil,  and  throw  in  the  mashed  almonds; 
boil  all  together  a  minute,  then  set  it  at 
the  corner  to  simmer  for  a  quarter  of  an 
lour ;  it  is  then  ready  to  pass  through  a 
ine  sieve  for  use.  When  required,  add 
any  quantity  of  cold  water,  according  to 
taste  or  direction,  to  make  it  palatable. 

Lait   de  Poutej  (French   remedy  for 


COOKERY   FOR   THE   SICK. 


525 


colds.) — This  may  be  made  from  any 
broth.  Break  a  fresh  egg,  separate  the 
white  from  the  yolk,  put  the  yolk  in  a 
basin,  with  a  wine-glassful  of  good  cream 
or  milk,  which  mix  well  with  a  spoon  ; 
have  half  a  pint  of  broth  boiling,  which 
pour  gradually  over  the  egg  and  cream, 
mixing  it  (as  you  pour  the  broth)  with  a 
wooden  spoon;  it  is  then  ready,  and 
ought  to  be  taken  when  going  to  bed. 

Sweet  Lait  de  Poule. — This  is  also 
reckoned  very  good  for  a  cold.  Put  two 
yolks  of  eggs  into  a  cup,  with  two  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  pounded  sugar,  part  of  the 
rind  of  a  fresh  lemon  grated  ;  beat  them 
well  together  for  ten  minutes,  then  pour 
boiling  water  gradually  over,  keeping  it 
stirred  until  the  cup  is  nearly  full.  Drink 
this  very  hot  when  in  bed. 

Sago  Fruit  Pudding. — A  correspond- 
ent of  the  Cottage  Gardener  says  : 

"  Being  forbidden  the  use  of  pastry,  I 
use  rice  and  sago  as  substitutes,  in  the  fol- 
lowing manner : — Boil  a  teacupful  of  sago 
as  thick  as  it  can  be  made  to  boil  without 
burning:  put  about  five  table-spoonfuls 
in  the  -bottom  of  a  quart  basin ;  then  a 
layer  of  baked  fruit  of  any  sort  (sweet- 
ened), and  fill  the  basin  to  the  brim  with 
alternate  layers  of  fruit  and  sago.  Put  it 
in  a  cool  place  for  some  little  time,  and 
it  will  become  solid.  It  is  best  when 
made  shortly  after  breakfast,  and  al- 
lowed to  stand  till  wanted,  to  warm 
either  in  an  oven,  over  boiling  water, 
or  before  the  fire  with  a  plate  turned 
over  it,  for  dinner.  The  sago  boils 
best  when  soaked  in  cold  water  for 
a  few  hours  before  using ;  rice  is  used  in 
exactly  the  same  way.  By  way  of  change, 
I  sometimes  line  a  basin  with  the  rice  or 
sago,  when  very  thick,  and  spread  a  thick 
layer  of  the  same  over  a  large  dinner 
plate.  When  cold  and  stiff,  I  turn  the 
basin  over  it,  and  with  a  knife  cut  the 
sago  round  the  edge  of  the  basin ;  the 
parings  I  put  in  the  bottom  of  the  basin, 


and  then  fill  with  baked  fruit,  after 
which  I  put  the  sago  in  the  plate  on  the 
top  of  the  basin,  to  act  as  a  cover.  The 
smooth  side  must  be  upwards.  Eaten 
with  mock  cream,  made  as  follows,  it  is 
delicious  : — Pour  half  a  pint  of  boiling 
milk  on  a  teaspoonful  of  arrowroot,  well 
mixed  with  a  small  quantity  of  milk ; 
stir  the  mixture  well,  and  have  the  white 
of  an  egg  well  beaten,  and  when  about  half 
cold  add  it,  and  placing  the  whole  over 
the  fire,  stir  till  it  nearly  boils,  then 
strain  for  use." 

Tapioca  Milk. — Soak  an  ounce  of  tap- 
ioca in  a  pint  of  cold  water  for  half  an 
hour,  pour  off  the  water,  and  add  a  pint 
and  a  half  of  good  milk;  boil  slowly 
until  the  tapioca  is  dissolved,  then  add 
sugar,  nutmeg,  and  a  little  white  wine,  if 
not  prohibited  by  the  medical  attendant. 

Italian  Cheese. — To  a  pint  of  scalded 
cream,  whipped  very  smooth,  add  the 
juice  of  three  lemons,  and  the  rind  of 
two — sugar  to  taste ;  let  it  stand  for  half 
an  hour,  then  whip  till  it  is  very  thick, 
tie  it  in  a  thin  cloth,  or  a  tin  with  holes 
in  it ;  let  it  drain  till  next  day,  then  turn 
out. 

Soyer's  Curry  Custard. — Break  tnree 
whole  eggs  in  a  basin,  and  beat  them  up, 
add  a  quart  of  milk,  a  little  salt,  a  very 
little  sugar,  and  two  teaspoonfuls  of 
curry  paste ;  bake  in  a  dish  or  basin. 
This  is  very  light  and  nutritious. 

For  those  who  can  afford  it,  roast  a  leg 
of  mutton,  and  when  nearly  done  put  a 
hot  dish  under  it,  and  with  a  sharp  knife 
make  several  deep  incisions  in  every  part 
of  it ;  let  it  remain  two  minutes  longer, 
that  all  the  gravy  may  fall  into  the  dish ; 
pour  into  a  cup,  take  off  the  fat,  and 
give  to  the  patient  as  may  be  required ; 
the  mutton  will  do  for  curry  or  hash  for 
the  family.  This  may  be  called  gigot  de 
mouton  sacrifie ;  but  when  life  may  al- 
most depend  upon  this  extravagance  as 
you  may  call  it,  the  expense  must  not  be 
thought  of. 


526 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


Decoction  of  Iceland  Liverwort. — An 
ounce  of  liverwort  must  be  carefully  freed 
from  the  moss,  fragments  of  stalks,  and 
particles  of  dirt,  with  which  it  is  fre- 
quently mixed,  by  rubbing  it  between 
the  hands  hi  cold  water.  Then  steep  it 
for  two  hours,  in  such  quantity  of  cold 
water  as  will  completely  cover  it ;  after 
which  it  must  be  bruised,  pounded,  or 
cut,  and  the  steeping  continued  for  three 
or  four  days  longer,  in  a  fresh  quantity 
of  boiling  water,  which  when  the  steep- 
ing is  finished,  must  be  strained  off  by 
pressure.  The  liverwort  is  then  to  be 
put  into  a  quart  of  fresh  water,  and  kept 
boiling  until  the  fluid  be  reduced  two- 
thirds,  or  to  a  pint  and  a  quarter.  When 
strained  and  allowed  to  cool,  it  forms  a 
thick  mucilage,  free  from  any  bitter 
taste,  and  may  be  rendered  very  palat- 
able by  the  addition  of  sugar  and  lemon- 
juice  ;  or  by  white  wine,  in  those  cases 
which  permit  the  use  of  wine. 

This  decoction  of  liverwort  is  an  ex- 
cellent demulcent  nutriment,  in  consump- 
tion, dysentery,  and  in  convalescence  from 
acute  diseases,  and  particularly  after  the 
whooping  cough,  in  which  case  the  bitter 
need  not  be  completely  removed,  as  it 
tends  to  invigorate  the  digestive  organs. 

Vermicelli  au  Lait. — Boil  a  pint  of 
milk,  and  when  boiling,  add  sufficient 
vermicelli  to  make  it  about  the  proper 
thickness ;  it  may  be  served  quite  plain 
if  required,  o'r  seasoned  with  sugar. 


FOOD  AND  COOKERF  FOR 
CHILDREN. 

The  kinds  of  food  to  be  given  to  very 
young  children  should  be  of  the  simplest 
description :  besides  cow's  milk,  diluted 
with  one-third  part  of  water,  arrow-root 
and  milk ;  pearl  sago  boiled  in  water  till 
perfectly  soft,  and  thinned  with  new 
milk  j  rusks  ;  biscuit  powder  ;  flour  pre- 


viously boiled  like  a  pudding  in  a  basin 
till  it  is  formed  into  a  hard  ball,  from 
which  portions  can  be  grated  into  milk, 
and  boiled  in  it  till  it  thickens  the  milk, 
are  the  chief  ingredients  used  as  food  for 
infants. 

Rice,  ~barley,  and  farina  gruels,  are 
also  used  with  advantage ;  and  as  a  change 
in  the  diet  of  children  is  advisable  when 
they  are  occasionally  indisposed,  these 
kinds  of  gruel  may  be  found  useful  va- 
rieties in  the  food  of  children. 

Food  which  contains  milk  should  never 
be  warmed  over  and  over  again,  as  is 
sometimes  done ;  nor  should  it  be  suffer- 
ed to  remain,  when  cold,  in  metal  uten- 
sils ;  if  intended  for  future  use,  it  should 
be  put  into  earthen-ware  basins,  and  set 
in  a  cold  place  ;  but  no  food  thus  set  by 
for  another  day  should  have  milk  put 
into  it. 


Nurse  Lamp,  with  Tea  Kettle  to  keep  children's 
food  warm. 

The  nutriment  of  children,  after  the 
completion  of  their  first  year  and  a  half, 
it  will  be  necessary  to  increase  in  so- 
lidity, and,  if  their  appetite  seems  to  de- 
mand it,  in  quantity  also.  Their  teeth 
begin  now  to  aid  them  in  masticating 
food,  their  limbs  become  firmer,  and 
carry  their  bodily  exertions  often  to  a 
great  extent;  the  degree  of  exercise 
which  healthy  children  voluntarily  give 
themselves,  stimulates  the  digestive  or- 
gans, enabling  them  to  receive  and  act 
upon  more  solid  nutriment.  Having  pre- 
viously had  animal  food  three  or  four 
times  a  week,  children  may,  in  the  second 
year  of  their  lives,  safely  eat  it  once 


CHILDREN'S  FOOD. 


527 


every  day — meats  being  chosen  for  them 
that  are  tender  and  nutritious.  Roast 
leef;  mutton,  either  boiled,  roasted,  or 
broiled ;  chicJcens,  some  kinds  of  fish, 
well-boiled  vegetables,  such  as  brocoli, 
turnips,  potatoes  (the  latter  are  best  for 
them  when  mashed  with  hot  milk  and  a 
little  salt)  ;  simple  compounds  of  egg  and 
milk  ;  fruits,  baked  or  boiled  ;  ~bread  well 
made  and  baked,  with  small  portions  of 
lutter ;  these,  with  milk  for  breakfast 
and  supper,  with  water  as  beverage,  are 
the  chief  articles  of  wholesome  food  for 
children  as  long  as  they  continue  under 
nursery  management. 

The  species  of  food  we  would  not  give 
them  consists  of  salted  meats  (beef,  pork, 
or  bacon)  ;  of  rich  stews,  ragouts,  and 
soups ;  of  fried  fish,  of  pastry  and  con- 
fectionery generally  ;  of  cheese  ;  and  of 
beverages,  tea,  coflee,  beer,  and  wine.  Of 
the  two  last  mentioned,  beer  and  wine, 
we  may  remark  that,  in  cases  of  delicate 
health,  they  may  be  advantageously  al- 
lowed ;  but  they  should  always  be  given 
under  medical  direction,  for  the  stimulus 
of  fermented  or  spirituous  liquors  is  not 
in  every  case  of  debility  beneficial ;  some- 
times the  reverse ;  neither  ought  children 
to  be  allowed  to  drink  much  at  a  time  of 
any  liquid,  however  mild  and  innocent  it 
may  be.  Too  much  liquid  has  a  tendency 
to  create  flatulency,  and  to  distend  the 
bowels.  It  has  been  said  that  parents 
accustoming  their  children  to  drink 
water  only,  bestow  a  fortune  upon  them 
of  the  value  of  which  they  will  be  sensi- 
ble all  the  days  of  their  life. 

Children's  meat  should  be  minced  as 
small  as  possible.  If  too  much  trouble 
is  left  to  their  feeble  power  of  mastica- 
ting, they  will  shun  it  by  swallowing 
their  food  unmasticated.  For  children 
whose  digestion  is  weak,  it  may  even  be 
desirable  to  have  their  meat  pounded. 

French  Pap. — Put  a  table-spoonful  of 
flour  into  a  pap  saucepan,  to  which  add 
by  degrees  two  gills  of  milk,  mixing  it 


into  a  very  smooth  batter  with  a  wooden 
spoon ;  place  the  saucepan  upon  the  fire, 
let  it  boil  ten  minutes,  keeping  it  stirred 
the  whole  time,  or  it  is  liable  to  burn  or 
become  brown  ;  then  add  about  half  an 
ounce  of  sugar  and  a  little  salt,  put  it 
into  a  basin,  and  it  is  ready  for  use.  A 
little  butter  is  also  very  good  in  it.  It 
may  be  made  with  dry  rusk  or  cracker, 
scalded  merely  in  water,  and  beaten  to  a 
pulp  with  a  little  sugar. 

Infant's  Food. — Take  a  pound  of  the 
best  flour,  tie  it  very  tightly  in  a  strong 
cloth,  and  put  it  into  a  pan  of  boiling 
water  (in  which  put  a  plate  to  prevent 
the  cloth  sticking  to  the  bottom  of  the 
pan).  Boil  it  for  three  hours  without  al- 
lowing it  to  go  off  the  boil — when  coldish 
untie  the  cloth,  and  scrape  off  the  outside 
of  the  ball :  when  to  be  used,  grate  down 
the  quantity  required  and  break  it  with 
cold  water ;  boil  four  or  Jive  minutes 
only,  and  sweeten  to  the  taste.  Flour 
prepared  in  this  way  is  confidently  re- 
commended by  an  experienced  sick  nurse 
as  a  soft  and  nutritious  food  for  the 
youngest  infant,  and  will  keep  for  a 
month  or  more  in  its  hard  compact  state. 
Milk  may  be  added  when  about  to  be 
eaten,  if.  wished. 

/Semoulina. — Semoulina  is  very  delicate 
and  glutinous  j  it  is  good  in  any  kind  of 
broth  or  milk  for  invalids  or  children,  of 
easy  digestion,  and  having  also  the  ad- 
vantage of  being  tolerably  cheap  and 
quickly  cooked. 

Arrowroot. — When  broth  is  boiling, 
put  two  teaspoonfuls  of  arrowroot  into 
a  cup,  which  mix  smoothly  with  a  gill 
of  cold  broth,  or  half  ditto  of  water ;  then 
pour  it  into  your  boiling  broth,  which 
keep  stirring  with  a  spoon  ;  let  it  simmer 
ten  minutes,  and  it  is  ready  for  use. 

Calces  for  Children. — Sugar  and  egg, 
browned  before  the  fire,  or  dropped 
as  fritters  into  a  hot  frying-pan,  with- 
out fat,  will  make  them  a  nourishing 
delicacy. 


528 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


Rice  Pudding  with  Fruit. — In  a  pint 
of  new  milk  put  two  large  spoonfuls  of 
rice  well  washed ;  then  add  two  apples, 
pared  and  quartered,  or  a  few  currants 
or  raisins.  Simmer  slowly  till  the  rice 
is  very  soft,  then  add  one  egg,  beaten, 
to  bind  it.  Serve  with  cream  and  sugar. 

To  prepare  Fruit  for  Children. — A  far 
more  wholesome  way  than  in  pies  or  pud- 
dings, is  to  put  apples  sliced,  or  plums, 
currants,  gooseberries,  &c.,  into  a  stone 
jar,  and  sprinkle  among  them  as  much 
sugar  as  necessary.  Set  the  jar  in  an 
oven  or  on  a  hearth,  with  a  teacupful  of 
water  to  prevent  the  fruit  from  burning ; 
or  put  the  jar  into  a  saucepan  of  water 
till  its  contents  be  perfectly  done.  Slices 
of  bread  or  some  rice  may  be  put  into 
the  jar,  to  eat  with  the  fruit. 

Rice  and  Apples. — Core  as  many  nice 
apples  as  will  fill  the  dish ;  boil  them  in 
light  syrup ;  prepare  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  rice  in  milk,  with  sugar  and  salt ;  put 
some  of  the  rice  in  the  dish,  and  put  in 
the  apples,  and  fill  up  the  intervals  with 
rice,  and  bake  it  in  the  oven  till  it  is  a 
fine  color. 

A  nice  Apple  Galce  for  Children. — 
Grate  some  stale  bread,  and  slice  about 
double  the  quantity  of  apples ;  butter  a 
mould,  and  line  it  with  sugar  paste,  and 
strew  in  some  crumbs,  mixed  with  a 
little  sugar ;  then  lay  in  apples  with  a 
few  bits  of  butter  over  them,  and  so  con- 
tinue till  the  dish  is  full ;  cover  it  with 
crumbs,  or  prepared  rice ;  season  with 
cinnamon  and  sugar.  Bake  it  well 
Fruits  that  have  seeds  are  much  healthier 
than  stone  fruits.  But  all  fruits  are 
better,  for  very  young  children,  if  baked 
or  cooked  in  some  manner,  und  eaten  with 
bread.  The  French  always  eat  bread 
with  raw  fruit.  Apples  and  winter  pears 
are  very  excellent  food  for  children,  in- 
deed, for  almost  any  person  in  health ; 
but  best  when  eaten  at  breakfast  or  din- 
ner. If  taken  late  in  the  evening  fruit 


often  proves  injurious.  The  old  saying — 
apples  are  gold  in  the  morning,  silver  at 
noon,  and  lead  at  night,  is  pretty  near 
the  truth.  Both  apples  and  pears  are 
often  good  and  nutritious  when  baked 
or  stewed,  for  those  delicate  constitutions 
that  cannot  bear  raw  fruit.  Much  of  the 
fruit  gathered  when  unripe,  might  be 
rendered  fit  for  food  by  preserving  it  in 
sugar. 

Ripe  Currants  are  excellent  food  for 
children.  Mash  the  fruit,  sprinkle  with 
sugar,  and  with  good  bread  let  them  eat 
of  this  fruit  freely. 

Blackberry  Jam. — Gather  the  fruit  in 
dry  weather ;  allow  half  a  pound  of  good 
brown  sugar  to  every  pound  of  fruit ; 
boil  the  whole  together  gently  for  an 
hour,  or  till  the  blackberries  are  soft, 
stirring  and  mashing  them  well.  Pre- 
serve it  like  any  other  jam,  and  it  will  be 
found  very  useful  in  families,  particularly 
for  children — regulating  their  bowels,  and 
enabling  you  to  dispense  with  cathartics. 
It  may  be  spread  on  bread,  or  on  pud- 
dings, instead  of  butter :  and  even  when 
the  blackberries  are  bought  it  is  cheaper 
than  butter.  In  the  country  every  family 
should  preserve,  at  least,  half  a  peck  of 
blackberries. 

Bread  and  Milk. — Cut  about  two 
ounces  of  any  white  bread  into  small  thin 
slices,  and  put  them  into  a  small  basin  or 
a  large  breakfast  cup.  In  a  little  saucepan 
(only  used  for  that  purpose)  have  half  ? 
pint  of  milk ;  when  upon  the  point  of 
boiling,  pour  over  the  bread ;  cover  over 
the  cup  five  minutes,  and  it  is  ready  for 
use. 

Porr  idge.— When  children  are  delicate? 
porridge  is  often  preferable  to  bread  and 
milk.  Put  two  table-spoonfuls  of  grits 
or  oatmeal  in  the  milk  saucepan,  which 
moisten  with  half  a  pint  of  milk;  let  it 
boil  ten  minutes,  keeping  well  stirred, 
add  a  small  piece  of  butter  and  a  little 
sugar,  and  it  is  ready  for  use. 


CHILDREN  8    FOOD. 


529 


Meats  for  Children. — Mutton,  lamb, 
and  poultry,  are  the  best.  Birds  and 
the  white  meat  of  fowls,  are  the  most 
delicate  food  of  this  kind  that  can  be 
given.  These  meats  should  be  slowly 
cooked,  and  no  gravy,  if  made  rich  with 
butter,  should  be  eaten  by  a  young 
child.  Never  give  children  hard,  tough, 
half  cooked  meats,  of  any  kind. 

Vegetables  for  Children,  Eggs,  &c. — 
Their  rice  ought  to  be  cooked  in  no  more 
water  than  is  necessary  to  swell  it ;  their 
apples  roasted,  or  stewed  with  no  more 
water  than  is  necessary  to  steam  them ; 
their  vegetables  so  well  cooked  as  to 
make  them  require  little  butter,  and  less 
digestion;  their  eggs  boiled  slow  and 
soft.  The  boiling  of  their  milk  ought  to 
be  directed  by  the  state  of  their  bowels  : 
if  flatulent  or  bilious,  a  very  little  curry- 
powder  may  be  given  in  their  vegetables 
with  good  eifect — such  as  turmeric  and 
the  warm  seeds  (not  hot  peppers),  are 
particularly  useful  in  such  cases. 

Potatoes  and  Peas. — Potatoes,  partic- 
ularly some  kinds,  are  not  easily  digested 
by  children ;  but  this  is  easily  remedied 
by  mashing  them  very  fine,  and  seasoning 
them  with  sugar  and  a  little  milk.  When 
peas  are  dressed  for  children,  let  them  be 
seasoned  with  mint  and  sugar,  which 
will  take  off'  the  flatulency.  If  they  are 
old,  let  them  be  pulped^as  the  skins  are 
perfectly  indigestible  by  children's  or 
weak  stomachs.  Never  give  them  vege- 
tables less  stewed  than  would  pulp 
through  a  colander. 

Children's  Diet  for  the  day  (Soyer). — 
Bread  and  milk  for  breakfast  at  eight ; 
the  dinner  at  one,  as  follows  throughout 
the  week  :  roast  mutton  and  apple  pud- 
ding ;  roast  beef  and  currant  pudding, 
baked  apples ;  boiled  mutton  with  tur- 
nips, after  which  rice  or  vermicelli  pud- 
ding ;  occasionally  with  beef,  suet  dump- 
lings, plain  and  with  currants  in  them, 
or  pease  pudding ;  or  if  unwell,  a  little 


veal  or  chicken-broth,  or  beef-tea.  "When 
in  business,  the  first  three  years  the  chil- 
dren used  to  dine  with  us  at  one,  at  a 
side-table  with  their  nurse.  They  then 
had  a  little  plain  meat,  cut  small  in  their 
plates,  with  potatoes,  pieces  of  bread,  and 
gravy,  after  which,  three  times  a  week, 
plain  rice,  bread,  or  other  plain  pudding, 
or  rhubarb  or  apple  tart ;  and,  at  five 
o'clock,  their  bread  and  milk  again,  pre- 
vious to  going  to  bed. 

But  1  should  recommend  for  nursery- 
maid and  all : 

First,  about  two  pounds  of  mutton, 
well  cooked,  but  with  the  real  gravy  of  the 
meat  in  it,  which  will  require  abou{  one 
hour  before  a  moderate  fire  ;  dredge  it  ten 
minutes  before  being  done  5  when  taken 
up  and  in  the  dish,  sprinkle  a  little  salt 
over  the  meat,  and  pour  over  three  or 
four  spoonfuls  of  hot  water  to  make  a 
little  light  gravy. 

Or,  a  few  slices  of  roast  beef,  or  a 
small  piece  roasted  on  purpose;  after 
which  a  very  plain  currant  pudding ;  or, 
occasionally,  a  little  pickled  pork,  with 
pease  pudding ;  or  roast  pork,  with  baked 
apples  ;  and  now  and  then  a  little  salt 
beef,  but  very  well  boiled,  with  suet 
dumplings  ;  and  occasionally,  for  change, 
either  bread,  vermicelli,  or  tapioca  pud- 
dings; in  case  of  illness,  and  with  the 
approbation  of  the  doctor,  veal,  mutton, 
or  chicken-broth,  sago,  gruel,  panada,  &c. 


SAYOEY   DISHES    FOE 
BEEAKFAST. 

Orillades.— .Perhaps  there  is  no  better 
grill  for  breakfast  than  a  cold  blade-bone 
of  mutton,  off"  which  the  greater  part  of 
the  meat  has  been  already  cut.  The  re- 
maining parts  should  then  be  scored,  and 
the  gashes  filled  with  a  mixture  of  mus- 
tard, cayenne,  common  pepper,  and  salt, 
as  for  a  devil ;  it  should  then  be  put  upon 


530 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


the  gridiron,  and  well  browned,  but  not 
burnt.  It  may  be  sent  to  table  dry, 
without  any  sauce,  or  served  with  gravy 
mixed  with  capers. 

The  bones  of  cold  fowl  of  all  kinds  are 
also  frequently  brought  thus  to  break- 
fast. 

Broiled  Chicken. — Split  it  open,  pepper 
it  only  on  the  inside,  broil  and  serve  it 
with  a  very  litfe  butter,  and  accom- 
panied with  broiled  mushrooms. 

Kdbobs. — Put  thin  slices  of  well-sea- 
soned kidney  and  bacon,  with  beef  or 
mutton  also  if  you  please,  upon  skewers. 
Have  ready  fine  bread-crumbs,  with  a 
slight  grating  of  lemon,  brush  them  over 
with  egg,  and  roll  them  into  the  .crumbs. 
Hang  up  the  skewers  to  roast,  and  put  a 
slice  of  toast  under  to  secure  the  gravy : 
when  served,  carefully  remove  the  skew- 
ers, and  place  the.  "  kabobs  "  on  the 
toast  ;  but,  if  only  a  quantity  sufficient 
to  help  one  person  be  put  on  each  skew- 
er, then  do  not  remove  them. 

If,  instead  of  meat,  an  oyster  be  put 
between  each  slice  of  bacon  and  kidney, 
it  will  be  found  very  superior. 

Dried  Salmon  is  likewise  a  good  re- 
lish ;  and  fresh  mackerel^  split  open 
and  broiled. 

German  Toast. — Take  the  remainder 
of  any  fricassee  or  ragout ;  any  quantity 
will  do  ;  chop  it  fine,  add  a  little  chop- 
ped parsley,  and  a  little  bit  of  shalot  or 
chive :  mix  it  up  with  one  or  two  eg-gs 
beaten,  according  to  the  quantity.  Put 
the  whole  with  its  gravy  into  a  stewpan, 
and  let  it  reduce  and  thicken  on  the  fire. 
Let  it  remain  until  it  be  cold,  then  cut 
pieces  of  bread,  toast  them  :  lay  the  mix- 
ture thickly  upon  them.  Boil  an  egg 
hard,  cut  it  into  small  pieces,  and  stick 
them  on  the  top  ;  brush  the  whole  with 
egg  beaten  up,  sift  bread-crumbs  over, 
and  bake  them  in  the  oven;  squeeze  a 
little  lemon-juice  on  the  top.  This  makes 
also  a  good  corner  dish  for  dinner. 


Vegetable  Toast. — Take  any  stewed 
vegetable,  and  make  it  into  a  puree.  Add 
a  little  more  seasoning,  mix  it  up  wfth 
the  yolk  of  an  egg,  and,  if  too  thin,  re- 
duce and  thicken  it  over  the  fire,  then 
spread  it  upon  toast,  brush  it  over  with 
beaten  eggs,  ajid  bread-crumbs  or  vermi- 
celli, and  fry  or  bake  them. 

Anchovy  Toast.— Make  a  well-buttered 
toast  of  brown  bread,  if  you  can  get  it ; 
scale  and  bone  a  proper  number  of  an- 
chovies, with  little  or  no  washing  ;  cut 
them  into  broad  slices,  and  place  them 
upon  the  toast,  seasoning  it  with  mus- 
tard, without  pepper. 

Sausage  Toast. — Fry  two  or  three  sau- 
sages ;  when  quite  hot,  strip  off  the 
skins,  and  spread  the  meat  upon  the 
toast  buttered  with  salt  butter  ;  season 
it  with  a  little  pepper  and  mustard.  It 
will  be  improved  by  a  grating  of  old 
cheese. 

Kidney  Toast. — Take  a  cold  veal  kid- 
ney, with  a  part  of  the  fat,  cut  it  into 
very  small  pieces  ;  pound  the  fat  in  a 
mortar  with  a  little  salt,  white  pepper 
and  an  onion  previously  boiled.  Bind  al 
together  with  the  beaten  whites  of  eggs. 
Heap  it  upon  toast ;  cover  the  whole 
with  the  yolks  beaten  ;  dredge  with 
bread-crumbs,  and  bake  in  the  oven. 

Ham  Toast. — Grate  or  pound  the  cold 
ham  ;  toast  and  butter  a  slice  of  bread  ; 
mix  the  ham  witn*  the  yolk  of  an  egg  and 
a  little  cream,  until  it  is  thick  and  rich  ; 
warm  it  over  the  fire,  and  serve  it  very 
hot  upon  the  toast.  Tongue  may  be  em- 
ployed in  the  same  way. 

Scotch  Woodcock. — Toast  and  butter 
three  or  four  slices  of  bread  on  both 
sides ;  take  nine  <ror  ten  anchovies 
washed,  scraped,  and  chopped  fine,  and 
put  them  between  the  slices  of  bread. 
Beat  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  in  half  a  pint 
of  cream,  and  set  it  on  the  fire  to  thicken, 
but  not  to  boil.  Then  pour  it  over  the 
toast,  and  send  it  to  table  as  hot  as  pos- 
sible. 


BREAKFAST   DISHES. 


531 


Sheep's  Sumps  and  Kidneys.— Boil  the 
rumps  in  gravy,  and  lard  the  kidneys 
with  bacon;  set  them,  along  with  the 
rumps,  before  the  fire  in  a  small  tin 
oven,  rubbing  them  at  the  same  time 
with  yolk  of  egg  and  a  little  cayenne 
and  nutmeg.  When  of  a  light  brown, 
dish  them  up,  either  dry  or  with  any 
pungent  sauce,  and  garnish  them  with 
parsley. 

Bacon  Broiled. — The  streaked  part  of 
a  thick  flank  of  bacon  is  to  be  preferred ; 
cut  nice  slices,  not  above  a  quarter  of  an 
inch  thick,  take  off  the  rind,  put  to  broil 
on  the  gridiron  over  a  clear  fire  ;  turn  it 
three  or  four  times  in  the  space  of  five 
minutes.  Serve  it  very  hot.  If  any  re- 
main after  dinner  of  boiled  bacon,  it  is 
very  good  broiled  or  fried  for  next  day's 
breakfast.  Broiled  and  boiled  bacon  has 
been  highly  recommended  to  the  dys- 
peptic. 

Devils  of  Biscuits. — Butter  them,  on 
both  sides  ;  sprinkle  cayenne  pepper  on 
the  top,  and  send  them  to  be  grilled 
This  may  be  varied  by  the  addition  of 
chopped  anchovies,  or  the  essence,  or 
diavolo  paste. 

Or ; — Make  a  slice  of  cheese  into  a 
paste  with  made  mustard,  and  lay  it  upon 
one  side. 

A  Dry  Demi. — Take  the  liver,  gizzard, 
drumstick,  and  sidebones  of  a  fowl  or 
turkey  ;  score  them  ;  lay  on  made  mus- 
tard very  thickly,  and  add  a  quantity  of 
cayenne  pepper  and  salt,  and  broil  them. 

A  Wet  Devil. — Take  any  part  of  a  tur- 
key, goose,  or  fowl,  cover  it  with  mus- 
tard, Chetney,  diavolo  paste,  or  any  other 
piquant  condiment ;  put  a  dessert  spoon- 
ful of  cayenne  pepper,  one  of  pounded 
white  sugar,  the  juice  of  a  lemon,  a  glass 
of  wine,  and  a  glass  of  ketchup,  to  a  tea- 
cupful  of  gravy  ;  heat  them  together, 
pour  over  the  devilled  fowl,  and  send  up 
very  hot. 

A  little  cold  fresh  butter  will  cool  the 


mouth,  should  the  grill  prove  too  power- 
ful. 

Devilled  Game. — Split  a  woodcock,  a 
snipe,  a  wild  duck,  or  any  other  game 
that  is  undone.  To  a  teaspoonful  of  salt 
add  a  dessert  spoonful  of  cayenne  pepper 
with  a  tablespoonful  of  curry-powder, 
and  wet  the  whole  with  French  mustard. 
Cover  the  birds  both  inside  and  out  with 
this  mixture.  Take  out  the  brains  when 
the  head  is  split,  and,  if  a  woodcock,  add 
the  trail  ;  make  them  into  a  paste  with 
the  yolk  of  a  hard-boiled  egg,  half  a 
blade  of  pounded  mace,  a  saltspoouful  of 
grated  lemon-peel,  and  season  it  with  es- 
sence of  anchovies,  ketchup,  or  other 
sauce ;  then  add  a  glass  of  wine,  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  cayenne  pepper,  a  dessert- 
spoonful of  pounded  white  sugar,  and  the 
juice  of  a  lemon  or  orange.  Roll  a  bit  of 
butter,  the  size  of  a  walnut,  in  flour  ; 
put  the  birds  and  the  sauce  into  a  metal 
dish  over  a  lamp,  cover  it  close,  shake 
it  about  occasionally,  and  when  it  has 
stewed  until  the  greater  part  of  the  sauce 
has  been  imbibed,  serve  it  round.  The 
legs  of  fowls,  geese,  and  turkeys,  may  be 
devilled  the  same  way. 

Mustard. — No  savory  things  are  ever 
brought  to  table  without  this  indispensa- 
ble accompaniment. 

In  making  it,  pure  water  is  most  gene- 
rally used,  with  a  pinch  of  salt  and  sugar, 
though  both  are  frequently  omitted  :  but 
a  much  better  mode  for  preserving  it,  as 
well  as  adding  to  it  a  good  flavor,  is  to 
make  it  of  water  in  which  horseradish 
has  been  boiled.  This  costs  no  trouble  ; 
for  if  the  horseradish  be  scraped  and  put 
in  a  teacup  with  boiling  water  poured 
upon  it,  and  covered,  the  infusion  will  be 
strong  enough  in  little  more  than  half 
an  hour. 

The  Parisian  mustard,  known  as  mou- 
tarde  de  maille,  is  however  much  in 
vogue  among  gastronomists,  as  possess- 
ing a  finer  pungency  of  flavor,  and  may 


532 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


be  imitated  by  mixing  up  the  flour  and  a 
little  fine  salt  with  salad  oil,  so  as  to  form 
a  thick  paste,  then  diluting  it  to  a  certain 
degree  with  equal  quantities  of  the  vine- 
gars of  horseradish,  tarragon,  chili,  and 
garlic  ;  or  sufficient  of  each  to  please  the 
palate.  Cayenne  should  never  be  used, 
and  even  chili  vinegar  but  sparingly. 

Sandwiches  require  more  care  than  is 
usually  bestowed  on  them,  for  this  rea- 
son, that  every  one  believes  he  can  cut 
sandwiches.  Where  any  quantity  is  re- 
quired the  bread  should  be  made  on  pur- 
pose, and  the  baker  should  be  desired  to 
bake  it  in  tins,  and  either  add  ^  little 
butter  to  it  or  raise  it  well  before  it  is 
put  into  the  tins,  so  that  it  should  not  be 
full  of  holes,  as  in  that  case  too  much  but- 
ter is  used,  and  the  sandwich  becomes 
disagreeable  from  being  greasy.  Out  the 
bread  moderately  thin,  butter  it  very 
slightly  indeed,  lay  the  meat  cut  thin, 
season  it  with  salt,  peppar,  and  mustard, 
as  may  be  required  :  cover  with  a  second 
slice  of  bread,  trim  the  edges,  put  them 
one  on  the  other,  and  cover  with  a  damp 
cloth  until  wanted.* 

Where  tongue  is  used  it  should  be 
boiled  the  day  before,  and,  when  tho- 
roughly done,  pressed  in  the  mould  in 
which  the  bread  is  to  be  baked. 

Chickens  boned,  and  farced  with  a 
small  quantity  of  farce  of  veal  and  ham, 
and  treated  in  the  same  way,  will  make 
excellent  sandwiches. 

Soyer  recommends  for  breakfast  also — 
Scrambled  Eggs. — Break  three  eggs 
into  a  small  stewpan,  add  a  saltspoonful 
of  salt,  a  quarter  of  that  quantity  of  pep- 
per, and  two  ounces  of  fresh  butter,  (the 
fresher  the  better ;)  set  the  stewpan  over 
a  moderate  fire,  and  stir  the  eggs  round 
with  a  wooden  spoon,  being  careful  to 
keep  every  particle  in  motion,  until  the 
whole  has  become  a  smooth  and  delicate 
thickish  substance  ;  have  ready  a  con- 
venient-sized crisp  piece  of  toast,  pour 


the  eggs  upon  it,  and  serve  immediately 
Herring  may  be  laid  between  the  eggg 
and  toast. 

Eggs  au  Beurre  (a  new  Method.') — 
Let  the  eggs  boil  six  minutes,  then  take 
them  out,  dip  them  for  two  seconds  in 
cold  water,  crack  and  peel  off  the  shells, 
and  lay  them  in  a  hot  plate  ;  cut  each  egg 
in  halves  lengthwise,  spread  a  little  fresh 
butter,  and  sprinkle  a  little  salt  over  the 
interior,  and  eat  them  very  hot. 

The  following  articles  for  Brealcfasts 
are  popular  in  Spring  and  Summer  : — 
Veal  Cutlets— Stewed  or  Fried  Clams- 
Cold  Boiled  Ham  or  Tongue  —  Clam 
Fritters  —  Broiled  Shad  — Broiled  and 
Fried  Fish — Stewed  or  Broiled  Chickens 
— Minced  Veal — Pickled  Salmon — Fried 
Sweet  Potatoes — Fried  Egg  Plant — 
Green  Corn  Fritters — Stewed  Pigeons — 
Broiled  or  Sliced  Raw  Tomatoes — Hash- 
balls  —  Cucumbers  —  Pepper  Grass  — 
Cresses — Game  Birds — Eggs — Omelets 
of  all  kinds — Tongue  or  Ham  Toast — 
Rice  Cakes — Batter  Cakes — Ripe  Fruits. 
Jam,  marmalade  and  honey  are  appro- 
priate. 

In  Winter — Additional. — Stewed  Pi- 
geons with  Mushrooms — Stewed  or  Fried 
Oysters — Broiled  and  Stewed  Fowl — 
Fried  Egg  Plant— Pork  Cheese— Hashed 
Poultry — Deviled  Gizzards — Steaks — 
Chops — Liver  Pudding — Fried  Pigs'  Feet 
— Venison  Steaks — Venison  Pasty — 
Fried  Smelts— Minced  Codfish — Fish 
Cakes — Sausages — Hot  Cakes  of  all 
kinds,  Buckwheat  and  Flannel  Cakes 
especially  ;  also  Hominy  and  Mush. 

A  celebrated  cook  says  : — When  I  was 
first  married  and  commencing  business, 
our  means  were  limited :  the  following 
was  our  system  of  living  : — 

Sunday^s  Dinner. — Roast  Beef,  Po- 
tatoes, Greens,  and  Yorkshire  Pudding. 

Monday. — Hashed  Beef,  Potatoes,  and 
Bread  Pudding. 

Tuesday. — Broiled  Beef  and  Bones, 
Vegetables  and  Apple  Pudding. 


BILLS   OF  FAKE. 


533 


Wednesday.—  Fish,  if  cheap,  Chops, 
Vegetables,  Pancakes. 

Thursday.— Boiled  Pork,  Pea  Pud- 
ding, Greens,  and  Rice  Pudding. 

Friday. — Pea  Soup,  remains  of  Pork, 
and  Baked  Batter  Pudding. 

Saturday.— Stewed  Steak  with  Suet 
Dumpling,  and  Rice  in  a  mould  with 
sauce. 

Dinner  for  Dinner  Party. — Soup — 
Fish— Saddle  of  Mutton— Cutlets  Main- 
tenon — Greens — Potatoes-  Sweet  Breads 
— White  Sauce — Cranberry  Jelly — 
Pickles — Turkey  Roast — Celery  Sauce — 
Game  Course—  Partridges — Wild  Ducks 
French  Salad— Jelly  of  Fruit— Cheese 
Cakes — Meringues  a  la  Creme — Frozen 
Plum  Pudding — Dessert. 

%d.  For  a  Party  of  Twenty  Persons. — 
Soups — Two  Dishes  of  Fish — Haunch  of 
Mutton — Boiled  Capons — Fricandeau  of 
Veal— Curry  of  Fowl— Fillets  of  Beef 
with  Tomato  Sauce — Oyster  Patties — 
Croquettes  of  Veal  or  Fowl— Cutlets  Sou- 
bise — Wild  Ducks — Guinea  Fowl  Larded 
— Scolloped  Oysters — Charlotte  Russe — 
Apple  with  Rice — Meringues — Punch 
Jelly— Turban— Cheese  Souffle— Dessert. 

For  Supper  Parties. — Cold  Roast 
Fowls— Lobster  Salad— Chicken  Salad 
— Mayonnaises  of  Fowls — Ham — Tongue 
cut  in  slices,  garnished  with  Parsley  and 
Aspic  Jelly- Grouse  Pie — Boned  Turkey 

— Terrapins Game    Birds Oysters 

Stewed,  Fried — Raised  Pastry — Jellies — 
Ice  Creams — Pyramids  of  Candied  Fruits 
— Cakes — Compotes  of  Fruits — Confec- 
tionery, &c. 

Children's    Party. Sandwiches 

Dishes  of  Lamb — Ham — Beef — Tongue 
— Fowls — Pastry — Custard — Jellies — 
Bonbons. 

Another  (Soyer.} — A  Roast  Turkey — 
Two  Dishes  of  Fowls— One  Ham— Two 
Pigeon  Pies — One  Piece  of  Boiled  Beef 
— Four  Lobsters — Four  Salads — Four 
Jellies — Four  Tarts — Four  of  Preserved 


Fruit,  &c. — Four  of  Pastry,  with  about 
twelve  of  various  kinds  of  Fruit,  &c. 

SPRING. 

Breakfast. Tea Cocoa Flannel 

Cakes— Meat  Cakes— Twist  Bread— Li- 
ver Puddings — Sausages. 

Dinner. — Pepperpot — White  Pota- 
toes— Lima  Beans — Sweet  Potatoes — 
Stewed  Oysters — Shewed  Chickens. 

Breakfast.— Tea— Coffee— Rye  Batter 
Cakes — Boiled  Eggs — Cold  Bread — 
Sliced  Ham— Beefsteak. 

Dinner. — Vermicelli  Soup— White  Po- 
tatoes— Tongue — Hominy — Fried  Oys- 
ters— Boiled  Fowls. 

Dinner. — Soup — Potatoes — Ruta  Baga 
Turnips — Asparagus— Mint  Sauce— Roast 
Lamb. 

Dinner. — Fish  —  Potatoes  —  Salad- 
Roast  Veal — Egg  %iuce — Greens. 

SUMMER. 

Dinner. — Ochra  Soup — Squashes — 
Fried  Chickens — Green  Corn — Potatoes 
—Salad— Buttered  Beets— Beef  Steak. 

Breakfast.— Cold  Bread— Dry  Toast — 
Clam  Fritters — Minced  Veal — Cream 
Cheese. 

Dinner.  —  Soup  —  Egg  Sauce  —  Cel- 
ery Sauce  —  Potatoes  —  String  Beans  — 
Tongue — Squashes — Boiled  Fowls. 

Dinner. — Lamb  Soup — Green  Peas 

— Potatoes Asparagus Spinach  and 

Eggs— Veal— Cutlets. 

Dinner. — Green  Pea  Porridge — Pota- 
toes— French  Beans — Cucumbers — Cur- 
rant Jelly— Pickles— Roast  Lamb. 

Dinner. — Soup — Squashes — Buttered 
Beets — Green  Corn — Roast  Veal. 

Dinner. — Soup  —  Fish  —  Potatoes  — 
String  Beans — Fried  Squashes — Corn 
Fritters— Fried  Chickens. 


534: 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


WINTER. 

Dinner. — Beef  Soup Sweet  Po- 
tatoes— Turnips — Cranberry  Sauce — 
White  Potatoes— Leg  of  Pork  Stuffed  and 
Roasted. 

Breakfast.— Tea—  Coffee— Indian  Bat- 
ter Cakes— Rolls— Beef  Hash— Fried  Li- 
ver— Pork  Steaks. 

Dinner. — Veal  Soup — Turnips — Bak- 
ed Sweet  Potatoes — Mashed  Potatoes — 
Horse  Radish— Roast  Beef. 

Dinner. — Soup — Fish — Pickled  Beets 
— Sweet  Potatoes — White  Potatoes — 
Baked  Beans — Roast  Ducks. 

Dinner. — Calves'  Head  Soup— White 
Potatoes — Hominy — Turnips — Pickles — 
Fillet  of  Veal  Stuffed  and  Roasted. 

Dinner. — Soup—- Cranberry  Sauce — 
— Ham — Fried  Oysters — White  Potatoes 
— Sweet  Potatoes — Roast  Turkey. 

Dinner. — Soup — Roast  Goose — Apple 
Sauce — Onion  Sauce — Potatoes — Sweet 
Potatoes — Tongue— Cilery— Stewed  Oys- 
ters. 

Dinner. — Calves'  Head  Soup Po- 
tatoes— Beets — Stewed  Oysters — Tur- 
nips— Sweet  Potatoes — Onion  Sauce — 
Boiled  Turkey. 

Dinner. — Soup — Fish — Currant  Jelly 
— Potatoes — Turnips — Roast  Mutton. 

Dinner. — Beef  Soup — Smoked  Pig's 
Head  with  Cabbage — Potatoes — Turnips 
— Macaroni — Beets — Celery— Sweet  Po- 
tatoes— Roast  Mutton — Batter  Pudding 
Baked — Brandy  Peaches — Pain  Perdu — 
Floating  Island. 

Dinner. — Vegetable  Soup — Roast  Pig 
— Potatoes — Onions — Oyster  Pie — Tur- 
nips— Rice — Boiled  Turkey — Vermicelli 
Pudding  —  Cocoanut  Custard  —  Tipsy 
Cake — Indian  Pudding. 

Dinner. — Clam  Soup — Chowder — 
Roast  Fowls— Beets— Mangoes— Toma- 


toes— Turnips — Maccaroni  —  Potatoes — 
Lamb  Pot  Pie— Plum  Pudding— Rice  hi  a 
mould  with  custard — Wine  Sauce — 
Cracker  Pie. 

Dinner. — Soup-Roast  Beef— Celery — 
Macaroni — Turnips  —  Sweet  Potatoes — • 
Potatoes — Fricasseed  Chickens — Boiled 
Tongue  — Boiled  Flour  Pudding  —  Tart- 
lets— Compote  of  Peaches. 

Dinner. — Soup  a  la  Julienne — Roast 
Beef — Green  Corn — Mangoes— Tomatoes 
— Potatoes — Beets — Squashes — Pilau  of 
Chickens — Custard  Pie — Rice  Flummery 
— Baked  Pears — Green  Corn  Pudding. 

Dinner. — -Mullagatawny  Soup — Roast 
Lamb  —  Mint  Sauce  —  Macaroni  —  Po- 
tatoes— Boiled  Tongue — Tomatoes — Rice 
— Roast  Ducks — Bread  Pudding — Jellies 
—Slip— Cherry  Tartlets. 

Dinner. — Oyster  Soup — A  la  mode 
Beef— Turnips — Sweet  Potatoes — Beets 
— Potatoes — Rice — Baked  Pork  and  Beans 
— Custards — Suet  Pudding — Sauce — Ap- 
ple Fritters — Mince  Pie. 

Dinner. Vermicelli    Soup Boiled 

Calfs  Head— Turnips— Spare  Rib— Po- 
tatoes— Beets — Rice — Roast  Turkey — 

Apple  Dumpling — Flapjacks Spanish 

Cream — Pumpkin  Pie. 

Dinner. — Soup — Chickens— Egg  Sauce 
—Potatoes — Beans — Tomatoes — Ham- 
Green  Corn- — Cocoanut  Pie Boiled 

Custards Sponge  Cake — Tapioca  Pud- 
ding. 

Dinner. — Soup — Boiled  Salmon — Leg 
of  Mutton — Caper  Sauce — Tomatoes — 

Squashes Green    Corn Fried    Egg 

Plant — Beans — Tongue — Rice  Pudding 
— Slip — Farina  Mould — Peach  Pie. 

NOTE.— The  Cuts  of  Cooking  Utensils  in  the  Se- 
cond Part  were  furnished  to  the  Publishers  by  Mr. 
STEPHEN  WM.  SMITH,  whose  Housekeeping  Fur- 
niture Ware  Booms  are  at  534  Broadway,  neai 
Spring  Street,  New  York. 


PART  THIRD. 

PERFUMERY   AND   THE   TOILET, 

THE    FAMILY    MEDICAL     GUIDE, 

MISCELLANEOUS  RECEIPTS. 


PERFUMERY   AND    THE    TOILET. 


THE  perfumes  for  the  handkerchief,  as 
found  in  the  shops  of  Paris  and  London, 
are  either  simple  or  compound  ;  the  for- 
mer are  called  extracts,  extraits,  esprits, 
or  essences,  and  the  latter  bouquets  and 
nosegays,  which  are  mixtures  of  the  ex- 
tracts so  compounded  in  quantity  that 
no  one  flower  or  odor  can  be  discovered 
as  predominating  over  another.  Per- 
fumes are  procured  by  the  processes 
of  maceration,  absorption,  and  distilla- 
tion. 

In  making  pomade,  a  certain  quantity 
of  purified  mutton  or  deer  suet  is  put 
into  a  clean  metal  or  porcelain  pan,  this 
being  melted  by  a  steam  heat ;  the  kind 
of  flowers  required  for  the  odor  wanted 
are  carefully  picked  and  put  into  the 
liquid  fat,  and  allowed  to  remain  from 
twelve  to  forty-eight  hours  ;  the  fat  has 
a  particular  affinity  or  attraction  for  the 
oil  of  flowers,  and  thus,  as  it  were,  draws 
it  out  of  them,  and  becomes  itself,  by 
their  aid,  highly  perfumed;  the  fat  is 
strained  from  the  spent  flowers,  and 
fresh  are  added  four  or  five  times  over, 
till  the  pomade  is  of  the  required 
strength.  For  perfumed  oils  the  same 
operation  is  followed ;  but,  in  lieu  of 
suet,  fine  olive  oil  or  oil  of  ben,  derived 
from  the  ben  nuts  of  the  Levant,  is  used, 
and  the  same  results  are  obtained. 

The  odors  of  some  flowers  are  so  deli- 
cate and  volatile,  that  heat  would  spoil 
them ;  the  process  of  absorption  or  en- 


fleurage  is,  therefore,  conducted  cold, 
thus : — Square  frames,  about  three  inches 
deep,  with  a  glass  bottom,  say  two  feet 
wide  and  three  feet  long,  are  procured ; 
over  the  glass  a  layer  of  fat  is  spread, 
about  half  an  inch  thick,  with  a  kind  of 
plaster  knife  j  into  this  the  flower  buds 
are  stuck,  cup  downwards,  and  ranged 
completely  over  it,  and  there  left  from 
twelve  to  seventy-two  hours. 

Almond  perfume  is  obtained  from  the 
bitter  almonds,  and  exists  in  the  skin  or 
pellicle  that  covers  the  seed  after  it  is 
shelled.  The  essential  oil  of  almonds 
enters  into  combination  with  soap,  cold 
cream,  and  many  other  materials  pre- 
pared by  the  perfumer. 


Almond. 

A  beautiful  imitation  of  Essence  of 
white  Lilac  may  be  compounded  thus : 
One     pint    spirituous    extract    from 


538 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


tubereuse  pomade ;  one  quarter  of  a  pint 
spirituous  extract  of  orange-flower  po- 
made ;  three  drops  of  otto  of  almonds ; 
half  an  ounce  extract  of  civet. 

The  civet  is  only  used  to  give  per- 
manence to  the  perfume  of  the  hand- 
kerchief. 

Benzoin,  also  called  Benjamin. — This 
is  a  very  useful  substance  to  perfumers.  It 
exudes  from  the  Styrax  lenzoin  by  wound- 
ing the  tree,  and  drying,  becomes  a  hard 
gum-resin.  It  is  principally  imported 
from  Borneo,  Java,  Sumatra,  and  Siam. 


Styrax  Benzoin. 

Bay. — Oil  of  sweet  Bay,  also  termed  es- 
sential oil  of  laurel-berries,  is  a  very 
fragrant  substance,  procured  by  dis- 
tillation from  the  berries  of  the  bay 
laurel. 

Bergamot. — This  most  useful  perfume 
is  procured  from  the  Citrus  Bergamia, 
by  expression  from  the  peel  of  the  fruit. 
Mixed  with  rectified  spirit  in  the  pro- 
portions of  about  four  ounces  of  bergamot 
to  a  gallon,  it  forms  what  is  called  "  ex- 
tract of  bergamot,"  and  in  this  state  is 
used  for  the  handkerchief. 

Geranium  (Pelargonium  odoratis- 
simum,  rose-leaf  geranium). — The  leaves 
of  this  plant  yield  by  distillation  a  very 
agreeable  rosy-smelling  oiF,  so  much  re- 
sembling real  otto  of  rose,  that  it  is  used 


very  extensively  for  the  adulteration  of 
that  valuable  oil,  and  is  grown  very 
largely  for  that  express  purpose.  "When 
dissolved  in  rectified  spirit,  in  the  pro- 
portion of  about  six  ounces  to  the  gallon, 
it  forms  the  "  extract  of  rose  leaf  gera- 
nium" of  the  shops. 

Heliotrope. — Either  by  maceration  or 
enfleurage  with  clarified  fat,  we  may  ob- 
tain this  fine  odor  from  the  flowers  of 
the  Heliotrope  Perumanum  or  H.  grandi 
florum.  For  a  small  trial,  which  can  be 
managed  by  any  person  having  the  run 
of  a  garden,  we  will  say,  procure  an  or- 
dinary glue-pot  now  in  common  use, 
which  melts  the  material  by  the  boiling 
of  water.  At  the  season  when  the  flowers 
are  in  bloom,  obtain  half  a  pound  of  fine 
mutton  suet,  melt  the  suet  and  strain  it 
through  a  close  hair-sieve,  allow  the 
liquefied  fat,  as  it  falls  from  the  sieve,  to 
drop  into  cold  spring  water  ;  this  opera- 
tion granulates  and  washes  the  blood  and 
membrane  from  it.  In  order  to  start 
with  a  perfectly  inodorous  grease,  the 
melting  and  granulation  process  may  be 
repeated  three  or  four  times  ;  finally,  re- 
melt  the  fat  and  cast  it  into  a  pan  to 
free  it  from  adhering  water. 

Now  put  the  clarified  suet  into  the 
macerating  pot,  and  place  it  in  such  a 
position  near  the  fire  of  the  greenhouse 
or  elsewhere,  that  will  keep  it  warm 
enough  to  be  liquid ;  into  the  fat  throw 
as  many  flowers  as  you  can,  and  there 
let  them  remain  for  twenty-four  hours ; 
at  this  time  strain  the  fat  from  the  spent 
flowers,  and  add  fresh  ones ;  repeat  this 
operation  for  a  week :  we  suppose  at  the 
last  straining  the  fat  will  have  become 
rery  highly  perfumed,  and  when  cold  may 
be  justly  termed  Pomade  a  la  Helio- 


The  cold  pomade  being  chopped  up  like 
suet  for  a  pudding,  is  now  to  be  put  into 
a  wide-mouthed  bottle,  covered  with 
spirits  as  highly  rectified  as  can  be  ob- 


PERFUMERY. 


539 


tained,  and  left  to  digest  for  a  week  or 
more ;  the  spirit  then  strained  off  will  be 
highly  perfumed :  in  reality  it  will  be  ex- 
tract of  Heliotrope,  a  delightful  perfume 
for  the  handkerchief.  The  rationale  of  the 
operation  is  simple  enough  :  the  fat  body 
has  a  strong  affinity  or  attraction  for  the 
odorous  body,  or  essential  oil  of  the 
flowers,  and  it  therefore  absorbs  it  by 
contact,  and  becomes  itself  perfumed.  In 
the  second  operation,  the  spirit  has  a 
much  greater  attraction  for  the  fragrant 
principle  than  the  fatty  matter ;  the  for- 
mer, therefore,  becomes  perfumed  at  the 
expense  of  the  latter.  The  san^j  ex- 
periment may  be  repeated  with  almond 
oil  substituted  for  the  fat. 

The  experiment  here  hinted  at  may  be 
varied  with  any  flowers  whatever ;  in- 
deed, by  having  the  macerating  bath  lar- 
ger than  was  mentioned  above,  an  excel- 
lent millefleur  pomade  and  essence  might 
be  produced  from  every  conservatory. 

The  odor  of  heliotrope  resembles  a 
mixture  of  almonds  and  vanilla,  and  is 
well  imitated  thus : — 

Extract  of  Heliotrope.— Half  a  pint  of 
spirituous  extract  of  vanilla;  one  gill 
of  spirituous  extract  of  French  rose  po- 
matum ;  two  ounces  spirituous  extract  of 
orangp-flower  pomatum  ;  one  ounce  spirit- 
uous extract  of  ambergris ;  five  drops  of 
essential  oil  of  almonds. 

A  good  Imitation  of  Honeysuckle  is 
made  thus  : — Spirituous  extract  of  rose 
pomatum,  one  pint ;  spirituous  extract 
of  violet  pomatum,  one  pint  ;  spirituous 
extract  of  tubereuse  pomatum,  one  pint ; 
extract  of  vanilla,  one  gill ;  extract  of 
Tolu,  one  gill ;  otto  neroli,  ten  drops  ; 
otto  almonds,  five  drops. 

Imitation  Essence  of  Myrtle.— Extract 
of  vanilla,  half  a  pint ;  extract  of  roses, 
one  pint.' 

Orange  Flower. — Extract  of  fleur  d'or- 
ange,  half  a  pint ;  extract  of  tubereuse, 
half  a  pint  ;  extract  of  jasmine,  two 
ounces.  Mix  and  allow  to  stand  for  a 


fortnight :  it  is  then  fit  for  bottling,  and 
is  a  perfume  that  gives  a  great  deal  of  sat- 
isfaction. 

Imitation  Essence  of  Violets. — Spirit- 
uous extract  of  cassie  pomade,  one  pint ; 
esprit  de  rose,  from  pomade,  half  a  pint ; 
tincture  of  orris,  half  a  pint ;  spirituous 
extract  of  tuberose  pomade,  half  a  pint ; 
otto  of  almonds,  three  drops. 

Imitation  "  Lily  of  theValley."— Ex- 
tract of  tubereuse,  half  a  pint ;  extract  of 
jasmine,  one  ounce  ;  extract  of  fleur  d?or- 
ange,  two  ounces  ;  extract  of  vanilla, 
three  ounces ;  extract  of  cassie,  one 
gill ;  extract  of  rose,  one  gill ;  otto  of  al- 
monds, three  drops.  Keep  this  mixture 
together  for  a  month,  and  then  bottle 
it  for  sale.  It  is  a  perfume  that  is  very 
much  admired. 

Imitation  "  Essence  of  Magnolia" — 
Spirituous  extract  of  orange-flower  po- 
matum, one  pint ;  spirituous  extract  of 
rose  pomatum,  two  pints  ;  spirituous  ex- 
tract of  tubereuse  pomatum,  half  a  pint ; 
spirituous  extract  of  violet  pomatum,  half 
a  pint;  essential  oil  of  citron,  three 
drachms;  essential  oil  of  almonds,  ten 
drops. 

Extrait  d?Ambre. — Esprit  de  rose 
triple,  half  a  pint ;  extract  of  ambergris, 
one  pint ;  essence  of  musk,  one  gill ;  ex- 
tract of  vanilla,  two  ounces. 

This  perfume  has  such  a  lasting  odor, 
that  a  handkerchief  being  well  perfumed 
with  it,  will  still  retain  an  odor  even  af- 
ter it  has  been  washed. 

PatcTiouly. — Pogostemon  patcTiouly 
(Lindley),  Plectranthus  crassifolius 
(Burnett),  is  an  herb  that  grows  ex- 
tensively in  India  and  China.  It  some- 
what resembles .  our  garden  sage  in  its 
growth  and  form.  The  odor  is  due  to  an 
otto  contained  in  the  leaves  and  stems, 
and  is  readily  procured  by  distillation. 

It  is  the  most  powerful  of  any  derived 
from  the  botanic  kingdom  ;  hence,  if 
mixed  in  the  proportion  of  measure  for 


54:0 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


measure,  it  completely  covers  the  smell  of 
all  other  bodies. 


Patchouly. 

«* 

Extract  of  Patchouly. — Rectified  spi- 
rits, one  gallon ;  otto  of  patchouly,  one 
ounce  and  a  quarter  j  otto  of  rose  quarter 
of  an  ounce. 

The  characteristic  smell  of  Chinese  or 
Indian  ink  is  due  to  some  admixture  of 
this  herb. 

The  origin  of  the  use  of  patchouly  as  a 
perfume  in  Europe  is  curious.  A  few 
years  ago  real  Indian  shawls  bore  an 
extravagant  price,  and  purchasers  could 
always  distinguish  them  by  their  odor  ; 
in  fact,  they  were  perfumed  with  pat- 
chouly. The  French  manufacturers  had 
for  some  time  successfully  imitated  the 
Indian  fabric,  but  could  not  impart  4he 
odor. 

At  length  they  discovered  the  secret, 
and  began  to  import  the  plant  to  perfume 
articles  of  their  make,  and  thus  palm  off 
homespun  shawls  as  real  Indian  !  From 
this  origin  the  perfumers  have  brought  it 
into  use. 

Imitation  of  the  Essence  of  Sweet 
Pea  can  be  prepared  thus  :— Extract  of 
tuberose,  half  a  pint ;  extract  of  fleur 
d'orange,  half  a  pint  j  extract  of  rose 


from  pomatum,  half  a  pint ;  extract  of 
vanilla,  one  ounce. 

Music. — This  extraordinary  substance, 
like  civet,  is  an  animal  secretion.  Musk 
is  remarkable  for  the  diffusiveness  and 
subtlety  of  its  scent  ;  every  thing  in  its 
vicinity  soon  becomes  affected  by  it,  and 
long  retains  its  odor,  although  not  in  ac- 
tual contact  with  it.  Extract  of  muskc 
one  pint ;  extract  of  ambergris,  half  a 
pint ;  extract  of  rose  triple,  one  gill. 
Mix  and  filter  it ;  it  is  then  fit  for  bot- 
tling. 

Hose. — Pure  otto  of  roses,  from  its 
cloying  sweetness,  has  not  many  ad- 
mirers ;  when  diluted,  however,  there  is 
nothing  to  equal  it  in  odor,  especially  if 
mixed  in  soap,  to  form  rose  soap,  or  in 
pure  spirit,  to  form  the  esprit  de  rose. 

There  are  four  modifications  of  essence 
of  rose  for  the  hankerchief,  which  are  the 
ne  plus  ultra  of  the  perfumer's  art.  They 
are, — esprit  de  rose  triple,  essence  of 
white  roses,  essence  of  tea  rose,  and 
essence  of  moss  rose.  The  following  are 
the  recipes  : — 

Esprit  de  Rose  Triple.— Rectified  al 
cohol,  one  gallon  ;  otto  of  rose,  three 
ounces.  Mix  at  a  summer  heat ;  in  the 
course  of  a  quarter  of  an  hour  the  whole 
of  the  otto  is  dissolved,  and  is  then  ready 
for  bottling.  In  the  winter  season  beau- 
tiful crystals  of  the  otto — if  it  is  good — 
appear  disseminated  through  the  esprit. 

Essence  of  Moss  .Zftw.—Spirituous  extract 
from  French  rose  pomatum,  one  quart ; 
esprit  de  rose  triple,  one  pint ;  extracts 
fleur  d'orange  pomatum,  one  pint  ;  ex- 
tract of  ambergris,  half  a  pint ;  extracts 
of  musk,  four  ounces.  Allow  the  ingre- 
dients to  remain  together  for  a  fortnight ; 
then  filter,  if  requisite,  and  it  is  ready  for 
sale. 

Essence  of  White  Rose.— Esprit  de  rose 
from  pomatum,  one  quart ;  esprit  de  rose 
triple,  one  quart  j  esprit  de  rose  violette 


PEBFUMEKY. 


541 


one  quart ;  extracts  of  jasmine,  one  pint; 
extracts  of  patchouly,  half  a  pint. 

Essence  of  Tea  Ease. — Esprit  de  rose 
pomade,  one  pint ;  esprit  de  rose  triple, 
one  pint ;  extract  of  rose-leaf  geranium, 
one  pint  ;  extract  of  sandal -wood,  half  a 
pint ;  extract  of  neroli,  quarter  of  a  pint ; 
extract  of  orris,  quarter  of  a  pint. 

Otto  of  Rosemary  is  very  extensively 
used  in  perfumery,  especially  in  combi- 
nation with  other  ottos  for  scenting  soap. 
Eau  de  Cologne  cannot  be  made  without 
it,  and  in  the  once  famous  "Hungary 
water"  it  is  the  leading  ingredient.  The 
following  is  the  composition  of 

Hungary  Water. — Rectified  alcohol, 
one  gallon ;  otto  of  English  rosemary, 
two  ounces ;  otto  of  lemon-peel,  one 
ounce ;  otto  of  balm  (Melissa),  one  ounce  ; 
otto  of  mint,  half  drachm;  esprit  de 
rose,  one  pint ;  extract  of  fleur  d'orange, 
one  pint. 

Vanilla. — The  pod  or  bean  of  the 
Vanilla  planifolia  yields  a  perfume  of 
rare  excellence. 

Extract  of  Vanilla. — Half  a  pound  of 
Vanilla  pods,  and  one  gallon  of  rectified 
spirit. 

Slit  the  pods  from  end  to  end,  so  as  to 
lay  open  the  interior,  then  cut  them  up 
'in  lengths  of  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch, 
macerate  with  occasional  agitation  for 
about  a  month ;  the  tincture  thus  formed 
will  only  require  straining  through  cotton 
to  be  ready  for  any  use  that  is  required. 
In  this  state  it  is  rarely  sold  for  a  per- 
fume, but  is  consumed  in  the  manufacture 
of  compound  odors,  bouquets,  or  nose- 
gays, as  they  are  called. 

Verbena,  or  Vervaine. — The  scented 
species  of  this  plant,  the  lemon  verbena, 
Aloysia  citriodora  (Hooker),  gives  one 
of  the  finest  perfumes  with  which  we 
are  acquainted ;  it  is  well  known  as  yield- 
ing a  delightful  fragrance  by  merely 
drawing  the  hand  over  the  plant ;  some 
of  the  little  vessels  or  sacks  containing 


the  otto  must  be  crushed  in  this  act,  as 
there  is  little  or  no  odor  by  merely 
smelling  at  the  plant. 

The  otto,  which  can  be  extracted  from 
the  leaves  by  distillation  with  water,  on 
account  of  its  high  price,  is  scarcely,  if 
ever,  used  fey  the  manufacturing  perfumer, 
but  it  is  most  successfully  imitated  by 
mixing  the  otto  of  lemon  grass,  Andro- 
pogon  schcenanthus,  with  rectified  spirit, 
the  odor  of  which  resembles  the  former 
to  a  nicety.  The  following  is  a  good  form 
for  making  the 

Extract  of  Verbena. — One  pint  of  rec- 
tified spirit ;  three  drachms  otto  of  lemon 
grass ;  two  ounces  otto  of  lemon  peel ; 
half  an  ounce  otto  of  orange  peel. 

After  standing  together  for  a  few  hours, 
and  then  filtering,  it  is  fit  for  use. 

Another  mixture  of  this  kind,  presum- 
ed by  the  public  to  be  made  from  the 
same  plant,  but  of  a  finer  quality,  is  com- 
posed thus : 

Extrait  de  Verveine. — One  pint  of  rec- 
tified spirit;  one  ounce  of  otto  of  orange 
peel ;  two  ounces  of  otto  of  lemon  peel ; 
one  drachm  of  otto  of  citron ;  two  drachms 
and  a  half  .of  otto  of  lemon  grass  ;  seven 
ounces  of  extrait  de  fleur  d'orange ; 
seven  ounces  of  extrait  de  fleur  tubereuse ; 
half  a  pint  esprit  de  rose. 

This  mixture  is  exceedingly  refreshing, 
and  is  one  of  the  most  elegant  perfumes 
that  is  made. 

Winter  Green  (Trientalis  Europcea). 
— A  perfuming  otto  can  be  procured  by 
distilling  the  leaves  of  this  plant ;  it  is 
principally  consumed  in  the  perfuming  of 
soaps.  Upon  the  strength  of  the  name 
of  this  odorous  plant  a  very  nice  hand- 
kerchief perfume  is  made. 

Iceland  Winter  Green. — One  pint  es- 
prit de  rose  ;  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  es- 
sence of  lavender ;  half  a  pint  of  extract 
of  neroli ;  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  extract 
of  vanilla  5  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  ex- 


542 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


tract  of  vitivert ;  half  a  pint  of  extract 
of  cassie ;  a  quarter  of  a  pint  of  extract 
of  ambergris. 

Citron.— On  distilling  the  flowers  of 
the  Citrus  medica,  a  very  fragrant  oil  is 
procured,  which  is  a  species  of  neroli, 
and  is  principally  consumed  by  the  manu- 
facturers of  eau  de  Cologne. 

Citronella. — Under  this  name  there  is 
an  oil  in  the  market,  chiefly  derived  from 
Ceylon  and  the  East  Indies.  Being 
cheap,  it  is  extensively  used  for  perfum- 
ing soap.  What  is  now  extensively  sold 
as  "  honey"  soap,  is  a  fine  yellow  soap, 
slightly  perfumed  with  this  oil. 

Cloves. — Every  part  of  the  clove  plant 
(  Gary  op  Jiy  llus  aroma  ticus)  abounds  with 
aromatic  oil,  but  it  is  most  fragrant  and 
plentiful  in  the  unexpanded  flower-bud, 
which  are  the  cloves  of  commerce.  The 
plant  is  a  native  of  the  Moluccas  and 
other  islands  in  the  China  seas.  The  oil 
may  be  obtained  by  expression  from  the 
fresh  flower-buds,  but  the  usual  method 
of  procuring  it  is  by  distillation.  Few 
essential  oils  have  a  more  extensive  use 
in  perfumery;  it  combines  well  with 
grease,  soap,  and  spirit,  and  forms  a  lead- 
ing feature  in  some  of  the  most  popular 
handkerchief  essences.  For  essence  of 
cloves,  dissolve  oil  of  cloves  in  the  pro- 
portion of  two  ounces  of  oil  to  one  gallon 
of  spirit. 


Cloves. 
Ess.  Bouquet. — The  reputation  of  this 


perfume  has  given  rise  to  numerous  imi- 
tations of  the  original  article,  more  par- 
ticularly on  the  continent.  In  many  of 
the  shops  in  Germany  and  in  France  will 
be  seen  bottles  labelled  in  close  imitation 
of  those  sent  -  out  by  Bayley  and  Co., 
Cockspur  Street,  London,  who  are,  in 
truth,  the  original  makers. 

Esprit  de  rose  triple,  one  pint ;  extract 
of  ambergris,  two  ounces ;  extract  of 
orris,  eight  ounces  ;  otto  of  lemons,  one- 
quftrter  of  an  ounce  ;  otto  of  bergamot, 
one  ounce. 

COMPOUND  ODOKS,  or  bouquets,  are  used 
for  the  purpose  of  fixing  the  more  vola- 
tile odors  to  the  handkerchief. 

Essence  of  Rondeletia. — Spirit  (brandy) 
one  gallon  ;  otto  of  lavender,  two  ounces ; 
otto  of  cloves,  one  ounce ;  otto  of  roses, 
three  drachms ;  otto  of  bergamot,  one 
ounce;  one  gill  of  extract  of  musk^ 
one  gill  of  extract  of  vanilla,  and  one  gill 
of  extract  of  ambergris. 

The  mixture  must  be  made  at  least  a 
month  before  it  is  fit  for  use. 

Bouquet  de  Caroline;  also  called 
Bouquet  des  Delices. — Extrait  de  rose, 
from  pomade,  one  pint ;  extrait  de  vio- 
lette,  from  pomade,  one  pint ;  extrait  de 
tuberose,  from  pomade,  one  pint ;  extract 
of  orris,  half  a  pint ;  extract  of  ambergris, 
half  a  pint ;  otto  of  bergamot,  a  quarter 
of  an  ounce;  otto  of  limette,  a  quarter 
of  an  ounce  ;  otto  of  cedret,  a  quarter  of 
an  ounce. 

The  Court  Nosegay. — Extrait  de  rose, 
one  pint ;  extrait  de  violette,  one  pint ; 
extrait  de  j  asmine,  one  pint ;  esprit  de 
rose  triple,  one  pint ;  extract  of  musk, 
one  ounce;  extract  of  ambergris,  one 
ounce ;  otto  of  lemon,  half  an  ounce ; 
otto  of  bergamot,  half  an  ounce  ;  otto  ot 
neroli,  one  drachm. 

Bouquet  de  Flora  ;  otherwise,  Extract 
of  Flowers. — Esprit  de  rose,  from  po- 
made, one  pint ;  esprit  de  tubereuse,  from 


PERFUMERY. 


543 


pomade,  one  pint ;  esprit  de  violette, 
from  pomade,  one  pint ;  extract  of  ben- 
zoin, an  ounce  and  a  half;  otto  of  ber- 
gamot,  two  ounces  ;  otto  of  lemon,  half 
an  ounce ;  otto  of  orange,  half  an  ounce. 

Essentia  Odorifera. — Take  of  musk 
grain,  ten  grains  ;  civet,  five  grains ;  Pe- 
ruvian balsam,twelve  grains ;  oil  of  cloves, 
four  drops  ;  oil  of  rhodium,  two  drops  ; 
sub-carbonate  of  potash,  half  a  drachm ; 
rectified  spirits  of  wine,  two  ounces.  Di- 
gest them  together  in  a  close  vessel,  with 
a  heat  equal  to  that  of  the  sun  in  sum- 
mer (78  deg.  Fahr.)  for  several  days,  and 
afterwards  pour  off  the  essence  for  use. — 
This  is  an  exquisite  perfume,  and  a  single 
drop  gives  a  fine  flavor  to  many  ounces 
of  other  liquors. 

Eau  de  Chypre. — This  is  an  old- 
fashioned  French  perfume,  presumed  to 
be  derived  from  the  JUyperus  esculentus  by 
some,  and  by  others  to  be  so  named  after 
the  island  of  Cyprus;  the  article  sold, 
however,  is  made  thus : 

Extract  of  musk,  one  pint ;  extract  of 
ambergris,  half  a  pint ;  extract  of  vanilla, 
half  a  pint ;  extract  of  tonquin  bean,  half 
a  pint ;  extract  of  orris,  half  a  pint ;  es- 
prit de  rose  triple,  two  pints. 

The  mixture  thus  formed  is  one  of  the 
most  lasting  odors  that  can  be  made. 

Empress  Eugenics  Nosegay. — Extract 
of  musk,  one  gill  j  extract  of  vanilla,  one 
gill ;  extract  of  tonquin,  one  gill ;  ex- 
tract of  neroli,  one  gill ;  extract  of  ge- 
ranium, half  a  pint ;  extract  of  rose 
triple,  half  a  pint ;  extract  of  santal,  half 
a  pint. 

The  Guards'1  Bouquet. — Esprit  de  rose, 
two  pints  ;  esprit  de  neroli,  half  a  pint ; 
extract  of  vanilla,  two  ounces ;  extract 
of  orris,  two  ounces ;  extract  of  musk,  a 
quarter  of  a  pint ;  otto  of  cloves,  half  a 
-drachm. 

Fleur  tfltalie,  or  Italian  Nosegay. — 
Esprit  de  rose,  from  pomade,  two  pints ; 


Esprit  de  rose  triple,  one  pint ;  esprit  de 
jasmine,  from  pomade,  one  pint;  es- 
prit de  violette,  from  pomade,  one  pint , 
extract  of  cassie,  half  a  pint ;  extract  of 
musk,  two  ounces  ;  extract  of  ambergris, 
two  ounces. 

Jockey  Club  Bouquet  (English  for- 
mula).— Extract  of  orris  root,  two  pints  ; 
esprit  de  rose  triple,  one  pint ;  esprit  de 
rose  de  pomade,  one  pint;  extrait  de 
cassie  de  pomade,  half  a  pint ;  extrait  de 
tubereuse  de  pomade,  half  a  pint ;  extrait 
of  ambergris,  half  a  pint ;  otto  of  ber- 
gamot,  half  an  ounce. 

Jockey  Club  Bouquet  (French  formula). 
— Esprit  de  rose  de  pomade,  one  pint ; 
esprit  de  tubereuse,  one  pint ;  esprit  de 
cassie,  half  a  pint ;  esprit  de  jasmine, 
a  quarter  of  a  pint ;  extract  of  civet,  three 
ounces. 

SPIRITUOUS  INFUSIONS. 

Leaves,  flowers,  roots,  wood,  resins, 
powders,  and  perfumes  of  animal  origin, 
all  serve  to  furnish  these  tinctures.  The 
substances  are  either  cut,  rasped,  or 
bruised,  according  to  their  nature,  and 
infused  for  some  days  or  a  month,  taking 
care  not  to  fill  the  vessel  so  full  as  to 
prevent  its  contents  being  stirred  up  oc- 
casionally. These  infusions  are  made 
either  with  alcohol  or  brandy. 

Eau  de  Vie  de  Lavan^e.-Tske  one  pound 
of  flowers,  and  three  pints  of  brandy. 
Infuse  in  a  closed  vessel  for  six  weeks. 
and  after  that  strain  and  bottle  up  for 
use  or  sale. 

Infusion  de  Lavande  Rouge  composee 
(English). — Take  of  spirit  lavender,  one 
pound  and  a  half ;  spirit  rosemary,  one 
pound ;  pulverized  cinnamon,  one  ounce  j 
pulverized  nutmegs,  one  ounce  ;  red  san- 
ders,  one  drachm.  After  two  weeks'  in- 
fusion, filter. 

Infusion  de  Camomille  £omaine.—OnQ 


544 


THE  PRACTICAL  HOUSEKEEPER. 


pound  of  flowers  suffices  for  three  quarts 
of  brandy. 

Infusion  of  Absinthe:  de  Sauge,  &c. — 
Take  only  four  leaves  to  the  quart  of 
brandy.  These  infusions  serve  in  the 
composition  of  sundry  aromatic  waters. 

Infusion  or  Esprit  de  Safran. — To  a 
quart  of  alcohol,  take  two  ounces  saffron 
and  infuse  for  two  months.  This  spirit 
is  used  for  coloring  waters,  pastes,  &c., 
but  in  very  small  proportions. 

Infusion  or  Esprit  de  Snodia. — Infuse 
as  before  one  pound  of  rhodium  wood  in 
two  quarts  of  spirit.  If  the  wood  is  re- 
sinous, only  half  a  pound  is  required. 

Infusion  or  Teinture  de  Canelle. — 
Take  four  ounces  best  bruised  cinnamon 
to  the  quart  of  spirit. 

Tincture  of  Sassafras. — Infuse  eight 
ounces  of  bruised  sassafras  in  one  quart 
of  alcohol. 

Tincture  of  Santal-citrin  (yellow  san- 
ders). — Operate  as  for  the  preceding  in- 
fusion. 

Tincture  of  Benzoin. — Take  Benzoin  in 
tears  and  pulverized,  two  ounces  ;  al- 
cohol one  pound.  After  seven  days' 
infusion,  filter.  This  tincture  is  used, 
principally,  for  making  the  Lait  Virgi- 
nal, either  with  pure  rose,  orange  flower 
or  lavender  water. 

To  malce  Eau-de-Cologne. — Rectified 
spirits  of  wine,  four  pints  ;  oil  of  berga- 
mot,  one  ounce;  oil  of  lemon,  half  an 
ounce  ;  oil  of  rosemary,  half  a  drachm  ; 
oil  of  Neroli,  three  quarters  of  a  drachm ; 
oil  of  English  lavender,  one  drachm ;  oil 
of  oranges,  one  drachm.  Mix  well,  and 
then  filter.  If  these  proportions  are  too 
large,  smaller  ones  may  be  used. 

Eau  Jaune  a  I1  Amaryllis. — In  two 
quarts  of  alcohol,  dissolve  two  ounces  es- 
sence of  bergamot,  four  ounces  essence  of 
lemon,  four  drachms  essence  of  Portu- 
gal, four  drachms  essence  of  neroli,  one 
drachm  essence  of  thyme,  one  drachm 
essence  of  rosemary,  two  ounces  of  tinc- 


ture of  cloves,  eight  ounces  of  lait  vir- 
ginal,  as  much  of  vanilla  water,  four 
drachms  .of  essence  of  amber,  and  two 
drachms  essence  of  musk.  Dilute  the 
spirit  with  good  rose  water,  and  add 
a  little  of  red  or  yellow  tincture,  ac- 
cording to  choice. 

Eau  d'Ambre  Eoyale. — To  a  quart  of 
alcohol  add  half  a  pint  of  spirit  of  am- 
brette,  an  ounce  of  essence  of  amber,  an 
ounce  of  musk  mixed  with  a  proportional 
quantity  of  orange-flower  water. 

Eau  de  Chypre.-—'hlix  together  (eau  de) 
jasmine,  one  quart ;  (eau  de)  bergamot, 
one  quart ;  (eau  de)  violet,  one  quart ; 
(eau  de)  tuberose,  one  quart  ;  (esprit) 
spirit  of  ambrette,  one  pint ;  essence  of 
musk,  one  ounce  ;  mecca  balsam,  one 
ounce  ;  storax,  half  an  ounce. 

Add  to  the  mixture  two  ounces  of 
water,  and  mix  thoroughly  together,  so 
that  no  one  odor  predominates  over  the 
rest. 

Lavender  Water. — Oil  of  lavender,  two 
drachms ;  oil  of  bergamot,  half  drachm  ; 
essence  of  musk,  one  drachm ;  spirit  of 
wine,  thirteen  ounces ;  water,  five  ounces. 
Let  it  stand  a  week. 

Eau  de  Bouquet  de  Flore. — Eau  de 
miel,  two  ounces  ;  tincture  of  cloves,  one 
ounce  ;  tincture  of  calamus,  half  an  ounce; 
tincture  of  lavender,  half  an  ounce ;  tinc- 
ture of  souchet,  half  an  ounce  ;  eau  sans 
pareille,  four  ounces ;  tincture  of  jasminej 
nine  drachms  ;  tincture  of  orris  root,  one 
ounce  ;  tincture  of  neroli,  twenty  drops. 

These  waters  and  tinctures  mixed  to- 
gether, give  a  product  of  exquisite  fra- 
grance. 

Eau  d1  Elegance. — Spirit  of  jasmine, 
two  quarts  ;  spirit  of  storax,  one  pint ; 
spirit  of  hyacinth,  one  pint ;  spirit  of  ba- 
diane,  four  ounces  ;  tincture  of  balsam  of 
Tolu,  four  ounces  ;  tincture  of  vanilla, 
two  ounces. 

Eau  de  Miel. — This  receipt  is  from  one 
of  the  most  celebrated  English  perfumers ; 
coriander,  seven  pounds  ;  cloves,  twelve 


HAIE   OILS. 


545 


ounces  ;  storax,  eight  ounces  ;  bruised 
nutmegs,  eight  ounces  ;  lemon-peel,  ten 
ounces  ;  calamus,  six  ounces  ;  alcohol, 
fifteen  quarts. 

Macerate  for  a  month  in  a  well-stop- 
pered demijohn.  Distil  then,  and  to  the 
liquor  add :  orange-flower  water,  five 
quarts  ;  essence  of  roses,  twenty-four 
drops  ;  pulverized  ambergris,  one  drm. ; 
vanilla  in  pieces,  two  ounces. 

Macerate  for  a  week,  and  filter.  This 
is  one  of  the  most  agreeable  waters  used. 

OILS  FOR  THE  HAIR. 

For  Thickening  and  Strengthening  the 
Hair. — Skim  the  fat  from  the  top  of 
calves'  feet  while  boiling  ;  mix  with  a 
teaspoonful  of  rum ;  shake  together. 
Apply  night  and  morning. 

Pomatum. — Take  white  mutton  suet, 
four  pounds,  well  boiled  in  hot  water, 
(three  quarts,)  and*  washed  to  free  it 
from  salt.  Melt  the  suet  when  dried 
with  one  pound  and  a  half  of  fresh  lard, 
and  two  pounds  of  yellow  wax.  Pour  in  to 
an  earthen  vessel,  and  stir  till  it  is  cold  ; 
then  beat  into  it  thirty  drops  of  oil  of 
cloves,  or  any  other  essential  oil  whose 
scent  you  prefer.  If  this  is  too  hard,  use 
less  wax. 

Or : — Soak  half  a  pound  of  clear  beef- 
marrow,  and  a  pound  of  unsalted  fresh 
lard,  in  water,  two  or  three  days,  chang- 
ing and  beating  it  every  day.  Put  it  into 
a  sieve,  and  when  dry,  into  a  jar,  and  the 
jar  into  a  saucepan  of  water.  When 
melted,  pour  it  into  a  basin,  and  beat 
it  with  two  spoonfuls  of  brandy  ;  dram 
off  the  brandy,  and  then  add  essence  of 
lemon,  bergamot,  or  any  other  scent  that 
is  liked. 

Pomade  Victoria. — This  highly  praised 
and  excellent  pomade  is  made  in  the  fol- 
lowing way — and  if  so  made,  will  be 
found  to  give  a  beautiful  gloss  and  soft- 
ness to  the  hair  : — Quarter  of  a  pound  of 
honey  and  half  an  ounce  of  beeswax 
simmered  together  for  a  few  minutes, 


and  then  strain  ;  and  of  oil  of  almonds, 
lavender,  and  thyme,  half  a  drachm  each. 
Be  sure  to  continue  stirring  till  quite 
cold,  or  the  honey  and  wax  will  separate. 
Imitation  Bear's  Grease. — Hog's  lard, 
sixteen  ounces;  flowers  of  benzoin  and 
palm  oil,  of  each  quarter  of  an  ounce.  Melt 
together  until  combined,  and  stir  until  cold. 
Scent  at  pleasure.  This  will  keep  a  long 
time. 

Sweet  Pot-pourri. — Take  three  hand* 
Ms  of  orange-flowers,  three  of  clove-gilly- 
flowers, three  of  damask-roses,  one  of 
knotted  marjoram,  one  of  lemon-thyme, 
six  bay-leaves,  a  handful  of  rosemary, 
one  of  myrtle,  half  of  mint,  one  of  laven- 
der, the  rind  of  a  lemon,  and  quarter  of  an 
ounce  of  cloves.  Chop  all,  and  put  them 
in  layers,  with  pounded  bay-salt  between, 
up  to  the  top  of  a  china  jar. 

If  all  the  ingredients  cannot  be  got  at 
once,  put  them  in  as  you  get  them  ; 
always  throwing  in  salt  with  every  new 
article. 

To  make  Wash-balls. — Shave  thin  two 
pounds  of  new  white  soap  into  about  a 
teacupful  of  rose-water,  then  pour  as 
much  boiling  water  on  as  will  soften  it. 
Put  into  a  brass  pan  a  pint  of  sweet  oil, 
four  pennyworth  of  oil  of  almonds,  half  a 
pound  of  spermaceti,  and  set  all  over  the 
fire  till  dissolved  ;  then  add  the  soap  and 
half  an  ounce  of  'camphor  that  has  first 
been  reduced  to  powder  by  rubbing  it  in 
a  mortar,  with  a  few  drops  of  spirits  of 
wine,  or  lavender-water,  or  any  other 
scent.  Boil  ten  minutes,  then  pour  it 
into  a  basin,  and  stir  it  till  it  is  quite 
thick  enough  to  roll  up  into  hard  balls, 
which  must  then  be  done  as  soon  as  pos- 
sible. If  essence  is  used,  stir  it  in  quickly 
after  it  is  taken  off  the  fire,  that  the  fla- 
vor may  not  fly  off. 

Paste  for  Chapped  Bands.— Mix  a  quar- 
ter of  a  pound  of  unsalted  hog's  lard,  which 
has  been  washed  in  soft  water,  and  then 
rose-water,  with  the  yolks  of  two  new-laid 


546 


THE   PEACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


eggs,  and  a  large  spoonful  of  honey.  Add 
as  much  fine  oatmeal  or  almond-paste  as 
will  work  into  a  paste. 

Or : — Blanch  one  pound  of  bitter  al- 
monds, pound  them  smooth  in  a  marble 
mortar ;  add  half  an  ounce  of  camphor,  one 
ounce  of  honey,  quarter  of  a  pound  of  sper- 
maceti, all  pounded,  and  mixed  with  the 
almonds,  till  it  becomes  a  smooth  paste. 
Put  it  into  jars  or  china  boxes,  and  tie  it 
down  till  wanted. 

For  Chapped  Lips.— Put  quarter  of  an 
ounce  of  benjamin,  storax,  and  spermaceti, 
pennyworth  of  alkanet-root,  a  large  juicy 
apple  chopped,  a  bunch  of  black  grapes 
bruised,  quarter  of  a  pound  of  unsalted 
butter,  and  two  ounces  of  beeswax,  into  a 
new  tin  saucepan.-  Simmer  gently  till  the 
wax,  &c.,  are  dissolved,  and  then  strain  it 
through  linen.  When  cold,  melt  it  again, 
and  pour  it  into  small  pots  of  boxes  ;  or, 
if  to  make  cakes,  use  the  bottoms  of  tea- 
cups. 

Cosmetic  Gloves. — Though  not  alto- 
gether fashionable  now,  these  gloves  are 
still  worn  by  those  who  are  subject  to 
chaps  and  chilblains  :  the  ladies  especial- 
ly use  them ;  hence  the  necessity  of  al- 
ways being  provided  with  a  small  stock. 

Gants  cosmetiques  au  bouquet. — Wax, 
four  drachms  ;  spermaceti,  four  drachms : 
white  soap,  four  drachms ;  mutton  suet 
seven  drachms. 

Mince  up  each  of  these  substances  sep- 
arately, melt  them  over  a  water-bath, 
and  add :  Olive  oil,  an  ounce  and  a  half  j 
pomade  rosat,  one  ounce  and  a  half; 
benzoin,  one  drachm ;  Peru  balsam,  one 
drachm ;  essence  of  roses,  some  drops ; 
honey  water,  au  bouquet,  half  an  ounce. 
Stir  together  until  the  mixture  is  com- 
plete, and,  whilst  the  mass  is  still  hot, 
apply  it  with  a  brush  to  the  wrong  sides 
of  the  gloves.  The  gloves  being  return- 
ed, are  blown  up,  and  put  by  in  a  warm 
place  to  dry. 


Or : — Beat  two  yolks  of  eggs  with  two 
spoonfuls  of  oil  of  sweet  almonds,  and  add 
half  an  ounce  rose  water  and  two  drachms 
tincture  of  benzoin. 

The  gloves  are  worn  during  the  night, 
and  each  pair  should  serve  two  weeks. 
The  rest  of  the  pomade  answers  for  rub- 
bing the  hands. 

Lait  de  rose  (milk  of  rose). — To  one 
ounce  of  fine  olive  oil,  and  six  drops  of 
oil  of  tartar,  add  a  quart  of  rose  water. 
Melt  together,  in  a  stoneware  vessel,  over 
a  water-bath :  Spermaceti,  one  ounce ; 
white  wax,  one  ounce ;  white  soap,  one 
ounce.  Rub  up  in  a  marble  mortar  bit- 
ter almonds  (best  quality),  two  ounces ; 
sweet  almonds,  best  quality,  one  pound. 
Take  out  three-fourths,  and  upon  the  re- 
maining fourth  pour  the  above  mixture, 
and  continue  rubbing  actively,  and  after- 
wards add,  by  degrees,  the  other  three- 
fourths  of  the  almonds,  always  pestling 
rapidly  so  as  to  thoroughly  incorporate 
the  mixture. 

Again  prepare  in  a  white-glass  bottle 
the  following  mixture : — Distilled  water, 
two  pounds ;  rose  water,  half  a  pound ; 
spirit  of  rose,  half  a  pound.  Reserve  a 
pint,  and  pour  gradually  into  the  rest  the 
first,  and  rub  well  all  the  while;  then 
strain  through  a  close  cloth,  and  return 
the  marc  to  the  mortar,  where,  being 
triturated  with  the  pint  above  reserved, 
it  is  again  strained,  and  the  liquid  united 
with  the  first. 

If  there  is  any  tendency  to  decompo- 
sition, shake  up  tbe  milk  freely.  To  aug- 
ment the  fragrance  of  this  composition, 
perfume  with  four  drops  essence  of  rose. 

Violet  Powder. — Wheat  starch,  twelve 
pounds ;  orris-root  powder,  two  pounds ; 
otto  of  lemon,  half  an  ounce;  otto  of 
bergamot,  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  ;  otto  of 
cloves,  two  drachms. 

Rose  Face  Powder. — Wheat  starch, 
seven  pounds ;  rose  pink,  half  a  drachm  j 


POWDERS — SOAPS. 


54:7" 


otto  of  rose,  two  drachms  ;  otto  of  santal, 
two  drachms. 

Perle  Powder. — French  chalk,  one 
pound;  oxide  of  bismuth,  one  ounce; 
oxide  of  zinc,  one  ounce. 

Poudre  de  la  mer  rouge,  by  Cambou, 
Paris. — Take  alum,  one  pound;  white 
sugar,  one  ounce  ;  gum  arabic  (best),  one 
ounce  ;  carmine,  one  ounce.  Mix  and  re- 
duce the  whole  to  an  impalpable  powder, 
and  sieve  through  a  fine  cloth. 

This  powder,  its  author  says,  is  cura- 
tive of  the  ringworm,  red  blotches,  and 
pimples. 

It  is  tied  up  loosely  in  a  bag,  and  this 
bag,  moistened  with  fresh  water,  is  rub- 
bed gently  over  the  skin. 

SOAPS. 

Sawn  au  miel. — Take  four  ounces 
white  soap,  four  ounces  white  honey, 
one  ounce  benzoin,  half  an  ounce  storax ; 
mix  the  whole  together  in  a  marble  mor- 
tar, and  when  well  incorporated,  melt  the 
paste  ever  a  water-bath,  -strain,  pour 
into  frames,  and  divide  into  small 
tablets. 

Lady  Derltfs  Soap. — Take  two  ounces 
blanched  bitter  almonds,  ten  drachms 
tincture  benzoin,  a  pound  of  white  soap, 
and  a  piece  of  camphor,  size  of  a  filbert ; 
powder  the  almonds  and  camphor  in  a 
separate  mortar,  and,  when  they  are  com- 
pletely mixed,  add  the  benzoin.  If  there 
should  be  too  much  odor  of  benzoin  and 
camphor,  weaken  the  perfume  by  remelt- 
ing  the  soap. 

Saponaceous  Cream  of  Almonds. — The 
preparation  sold  under  this  title  is  a 
potash  soft  soap  of  lard.  It  has  a  beauti- 
ful pearly  appearance,  and  has  met  with 
extensive  demand  as  a  shaving  soap.  It 
is  made  thus : — Clarified  lard,  seven 
pounds ;  potash  of  lye  (containing  twenty- 
six  per  cent,  of  caustic  potash),  three  and 
three-quarter  pounds  j  rectified  spirit. 


three  ounces;  otto  of  almonds,  two 
drachms. 

Manipulation  : — Melt  the  lard  in  a  por- 
celain vessel  by  a  salt-water  bath  ;  then 
run  in  the  lye,  very  slowly,  agitating  the 
whole  time ;  when  about  half  the  lye  is 
in,  the  mixture  begins  to  curdle  ;  it  will, 
however,  become  so  firm  that  it  cannot 
be  stirred.  The  creme  is  then  finished, 
but  is  not  pearly ;  it  will,  however,  as- 
sume that  appearance  by  long  trituration 
in  a  mortar,  gradually  adding  the  al- 
cohol, in  which  has  been  dissolved  the 
perfume. 

Transparent  Soap. — Take  of  perfectly 
dry,  pulverulent  white  soap,  two  pounds ; 
alcohol,  three  quarts;  heat  gently  to- 
gether over  a  water-bath,  and  when  the 
solution  is  complete,  perfume,  and  turn 
out  into  forms. 

"When  cooled,  divide  it  into  cakes,  one- 
third  thicker  than  their  designed  size, 
so  as  to  allow  for  contraction  by  evapo- 
ration. 

Frangipanne  Soap. — Curd  soap,  pre- 
viously colored  light  brown,  seven  pounds ; 
civet,  a  quarter  of  an  ounce ;  otto  of 
neroli,  half  an  ounce ;  otto  of  santal,  an 
ounce  and  a  half;  otto  of  rose,  a  quarter 
of  an  ounce;  otto  of  vitivert,  half  an 
ounce. 

Rose  Cold  Cream. — Almond  oil,  one 
pound ;  rose-water,  one  pound ;  white 
wax,  one  ounce  ;  spermaceti,  one  ounce ; 
otto  of  roses,  half  a  drachm.  Heat  the 
wax  and  sperm  in  a  water-bath ;  add  the 
otto  last. 

Cold  Cream  of  Almonds  is  prepared 
precisely  as  the  above ;  but  in  place  of 
otto  of  roses  otto  of  almonds  is  used. 

Violet  Cold  Cream. — Huile  violette, 
one  pound ;  rose-water,  one  pound ;  wax 
and  spermaceti,  each  one  ounce ;  otto  of 
almonds,  five  drops. 

Violet  Cold  Cream.  Imitation: — Al- 
mond oil,  three-quarters  of  a  pound  j 


548 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


huile  cassie,  a  quarter  of  a  pound ;  rose- 
water,  one  pound ;  sperm  and  wax,  one 
ounce ;  otto  of  almonds,  a  quarter  of  a 
drachm. 

This  is  an  elegant  and  economical  pre- 
paration, generally  admired. 

Camphor  Cold  Cream  (otherwise  Cam- 
phor Ice). — Almond  oil,  one  pound  ;  rose 
water,  one  pound  ;  wax  and  spermaceti, 
one  ounce ;  camphor,  two  ounces ;  otto 
of  rosemary,  one  drachm. 

Pommades  des  Sultanes. — Melt  over  a 
water-bath  one  ounce  white  wax  and 
two  ounces  spermaceti  j  withdraw  from 
the  fire,  and  then  add  eight  ounces  oil 
of  sweet  almonds,  eight  ounces  oil  of 
white  poppy,  and  continue  beating  to- 
gether without  interval  until  the  mixture 
begins  to  get  white,  then  put  in  half  an 
ounce  of  Mecca  balsam  and  a  gill  of  rose- 
water,  and  prolong  the  rubbing  until  the 
mixture  will  take  up  no  more  of  rose 
water,  and  detaches  itself  in  large  flakes 
or  lumps. 

In  filling  the  pots,  take  care  to  cover 
the  contents  with  a  little  rose-water. 
This  is  among  the  best  preparations  for 
softening  the  skin  and  preserving  its 
freshness. 

Pommade  de  Ninon  de  UEnclos,  by 
Boyer. — Take  oil  of  sweet  almonds,  four 
ounces ;  washed  lard,  three  ounces,  rose- 
water,  three  ounces.  This  pomade  is 
extremely  mild  and  refreshing. 

Pate  divine  de  Venus,  by  Bourdel. — 
Mix  together  equal  parts  of  purified  lard, 
fresh  butter,  and  honey,  and  add  a  half 
portion  of  Mecca  balsam,  and  essence  of 
roses. 

Almond  Balls. — Purified  suet,  one 
pound  ;  white  wax,  half  a  pound  ;  otto 
of  almonds,  one  drachm  j  otto  of  cloves, 
quarter  of  a  drachm. 

Camphor  Balls. — Purified  suet,  one 
pound  ;  white  wax.  half  a  pound ;  cam- 
phor, quarter  of  a  pound  ;  otto  of  French 
lavender  or  rosemary,  half  an  ounce. 


Camphor  Paste — Sweet  almond  oil, 
half  a  pound  ;  purified  lard,  quarter  of  a 
pound  ;  wax,  spermaceti  and  camphor, 
each,  one  ounce. 

Pate  d'Amandes  Aux  Jaunes  d'aufs. 
— To  four  ounces  sweet  almonds,  pow- 
dered finely  in  a  marble  mortar,  add  the 
yolks  of  three  fresh  eggs,  mix  well, 
thin  out  with  eight  ounces  of  milk,  and 
boil  until  it  assumes  the  consistence  of 
paste,  stirring  constantly  during  the 
ebullition.  Perfume  with  one  drachm 
essence  of  vanilla. 

Composition  par  Blaque,  Paris,  for 
Softening  the  Skin.— Butter,  four  pounds ; 
oil  of  sweet  almonds,  four  pounds  ;  com- 
mon white  soap,  six  pounds  ;  decoction 
of  marshmallow,  eight  pounds  j  alcohol, 
one  pint. 

Melt  and  heat  together,  in  a  stoneware 
vessel,  over  a  water- bath,  stirring  well 
all  the  time  ;  and  when  the  whole  is 
thoroughly  incorporated,  pour  out  to 
cool.  Perfume  according  to  taste.  A 
quantity  of  the  size  of  a  filbert,  well 
rubbed  on,  suffices  for  washing  the 
hands. 

Camphor  Cerate  for  Chapped  Hands. — 
Take  half  an  ounce  of  spermaceti,  half  an 
ounce  of  white  wax,  scrape  them  into  an 
earthen  vessel  or  pipkin  (an  earthen 
jam-pot  will  do,)  add  six  drachms  of 
pounded  camphor,  and  pour  on  the  whole 
four  table-spoonfuls  of  best  olive  oil  ;  let 
it  stand  before  the  fire  till  it  dissolves,  stir- 
ring it  well  when  liquid.  Before  you 
wash  your  hands,  take  a  small  piece  of 
the  cerate,  and  rub  it  into  your  hands, 
then  wash  them  as  usual.  Putting  the 
cerate  on  before  going  to  bed  is  very 
good.  The  ingredients  cost  two  shillings, 
and  this  quantity  will  last  for  three  win- 
ters. The  vessel  should  be  covered,  to 
prevent  evaporation. 

To  eradicate  Warts. — Dissolve  as  much 
common  washing  soda  as  the  water  will 
take  up  ;  repeatedly  wash  with  this  for  a 


COLD   CREAM VINEGARS. 


549 


minute  or  two,  and  let  them  dry  without 
wiping. 


Another  Method.  —  Get  a  little 
lock's  gall,  keep  it  in  a  bottle,  and  rub  a 
little  on  the  warts  two  or  three  times  a 
day. 

Cold  Cream.  —  Lard,  six  ounces  ;  sper- 
maceti, one  ounce  and  a  drachm  and  a 
half  ;  white  wax,  three  drachms  ;  rose- 
water,  three  ounces  ;  carbonate  of  potass, 
fifteen  grains  ;  spirits  of  wine,  three  quar- 
ters of  an  ounce  ;  essential  oil  of  berga- 
mot,  three  drachms.  Melt  the  three  first, 
then  add  the  rose-water,  carbonate  of 
potass,  and  spirits  of  wine,  stirring  well. 
and  when  nearly  cold  add  the  perfume.  I 
can  safely  say  that  this  is  first-rate,  hav- 
ing made  many  pounds  of  it. 

To  Whiten  the  Nails.—  Diluted  sul- 
phuric acid,  two  drachms  ;  tincture  of 
myrrh,  one  drachm  ;  spring  water,  four 
ounces.  Mix.  First  cleanse  with  white 
soap,  and  then  dip  the  fingers  into  the 
mixture. 

To  Whiten  the  Hands.  —  Take  a  wine- 
glassful  of  Eau  de  Cologne,  and  another 
of  lemon-juice  :  then  scrape  two  cakes  of 
brown  Windsor  soap  to  a  powder,  and 
mix  well  in  a  mould.  When  hard,  it  will 
be  an  excellent  soap  for  whitening  the 
hands. 

Rcse  Lip  Salve.  —  Eight  ounces  sweet 
almond  oil,  four  ounces  prepared  mutton 
suet,  one  and  a  half  ounces  white  wax, 
two  ounces  spermaceti,  twenty  drops 
otto  ;  steep  a  small  quantity  of  alkanet 
root  in  the  oil,  and  strain  before  using. 
Melt  the  suet,  wax,  and  spermaceti  to- 
gether, then  add  the  coloric  oil  and  otto. 

jPommade  de  Beaute,  for  improving  the 
complexion,  and  healing  chaps.  Melt  to- 
gether over  a  water-bath  white  wax,  one 
and  a  half  drachms  ;  spermaceti,  two 
drachms  ;  oil  of  sweet  almonds,  half  an 
ounce  ;  oil  of  olives,  pure,  half  an  ounce  ; 
oil  of  poppy,  half  an  ounce  j  balsam  Peru, 
35 


liquid,  four  drops.  Add  the  balsam  after 
having  well  beaten  the  mixture.  This  is 
an  excellent  cosmetic. 

Glycerine  Balsam. — White  wax,  sper- 
maceti, each  one  ounce  ;  almond  oil,  half 
a  pound  ;  glycerine,  two  ounces  ;  otto  of 
roses,  quarter  of  a  drachm. 

White  Lip  Salve. — Almond  oil,  quar- 
ter of  a  pound ;  wax  and  spermaceti,  each 
one  ounce  ;  otto  of  almonds,  half  a  drm. ; 
otto  of  geranium,  quarter  of  a  drachm. 

Common  Lip  Salve  is  made  simply  of 
equal  parts  of  lard  and  suet,  colored  with 
alkanet  root,  and  perfumed  with  an  ounce 
of  bergamot  to  every  pound  of  salve. 

Pommade,  ~by  Dr.  Pittschaft,  Baden, 
for  Chapped  Lips. — Take  sublimed  oxide 
of  zinc,  one  drachm ;  lycopodium  powder, 
one  drachm ;  pommade  rosat,  four  ounces. 

Mix,  and  make  into  a  perfectly  homo- 
geneous pomade. 

This  is  an  excellent  remedy  for  chap- 
ped lips,  and  is  beneficial  in  cases  of  ul- 
ceration  of  the  nails  of  the  feet.  Ita 
application  in  such  instances  must  be 
immediately  after  bathing  the  affected 
parts. 

A  toilet  can  be  arranged  and  furnished 
according  to  taste,  where  there  is  more 
regard  to  convenience  and  comfort  than 
expense  of  outlay.  The  necessaries,  how- 
ever, for  a  dressing-table  and  washstand, 
are  two  cakes  of  fine  soap,  a  box  of  den- 
tifrice, a  pot  of  pomade  for  the  hair,  and 
a  box  of  lip  salve. 

Acetic  Acid  and  its  Use  in  Perfumery* 
— The  pungency  of  the  odor  of  vinegar 
naturally  brought  it  into  the  earliest  use 
in  the  art  of  perfumery. 

The  modern  aromatic  vinegar  is  the 
concentrated  acetic  acid  aromatized  with 
various  ottos,  camphor,  &c.,  thus  : — 

Aromatic  Vinegar. — Concentrated  ace- 
tic acid,  eight  ounces  ;  otto  of  English 
lavender,  two  drachms  ;  otto  of  English 


550 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


rosemary,  one  drachm  ;  otto  of  cloves, 
one  drachm ;  camphor,  one  ounce. 
,  First  dissolve  the  bruised  camphor  in 
the  acetic  acid,  then  add  the  perfumes  ; 
after  remaining  together  for  a  few  days, 
with  occasional  agitation,  it  is  to  be 
strained,  and  is  then  ready  for  use. 

The  most  popular  article  of  this  kind 
is— 

Henry's  Vinegar. — Dried  leaves  of 
rosemary,  rue,  wormwood,  sage,  mint, 
and  lavender  flowers,  each  half  an  ounce  j 
bruised  nutmeg,  cloves,  angelica  root,  and 
camphor,  each  quarter  of  an  ounce ;  alco- 
hol (rectified),  four  ounces  ;  concentrated 
acetic  acid,  sixteen  ounces. 

Macerate  the  materials  for  a  day  in  the 
spirit ;  then  add  the  acid,  digest  for  a 
week,  and  filter  it. 

Vinaigre  a  la  Rose. — Concentrated 
acetic  acid,  one  ounce  ;  otto  of  roses,  half 
a  drachm.  Well  shaken  together. 

It  is  obvious  that  vinegars  differently 
perfumed  may  be  made  in  a  similar  man- 
ner to  the  above,  by  using  other  ottos  in 
place  of  the  otto  of  roses.  All  these  con- 
centrated vinegars  are  used  in  the  same 
way  as  perfumed  ammonia,  that  is,  by 
pouring  three  or  four  drachms  into  an 
ornamental  "  smelling "  bottle,  pre- 
viously filled  with  crystals  of  sulphate  of 
potash,  which  forms  the  "  sel  de  vinaigre  " 
of  the  shops  ;  or  upon  sponge  into  little 
silver  boxes,  called  vinaigrettes,  from  their 
French  origin.  The  use  of  these  vinegars 
had  their  origin  in  the  notion  that 
they  kept  those  who  carried  them  from 
the  effects  of  infectious  disease. 

Mint  Vinegar. — This  is  made  by  put- 
ting into  a  wide-mouthed  bottle,  fresh 
nice  clean  mint  leaves  enough  to  fill  it 
loosely  ;  then  fill  up  the  bottle  with  good 
vinegar,;  and  after  it  has  been  stopped 
close  for  two  or  three  weeks,  it  is  to  be 
poured  off' clear  into  another  bottle,  and 
kept  well  corked  for  use.  Serve  with 
lamb  when  mint  cannot  be  obtained. 


Thieves*  Vinegar. — Take  of  rue.  sage, 
mint,  rosemary,  wormwood,  and  laven- 
der, a  large  handful  of  each ;  infuse  in 
one  gallon  of  vitfegar,  in  a  stone  jar 
closely  covered,  and  keep  warm  by  the 
fire  for  four  days,  then  strain,  and  add  one 
ounce  of  camphor,  pounded  ;  bottle,  and 
keep  well  corked.  There  is  a  legend  con- 
nected with  this  preparation  (called  in 
French  Vinaigre  d  quatre  Voleurs\  that 
during  the  plague  at  Marseilles  certain 
robbers  plundered  the  infected  houses 
with  impunity,  and  being  apprehended 
and  condemned  to  death,  were  pardoned 
on  condition  of  disclosing  the  secret  of 
their  preventive — as  above.  The  mode  of 
using  is  to  wash  the  face  and  hands  with 
it  previous  to  exposure  to  any  infection. 

Vinaigre  Virginal. — This  mild  and  re- 
freshing liquor  is  excellent  to  remove 
prickly  heat,  but,  before  being  used  for 
such  purpose,  must  be  diluted  with  wa- 
ter. 

Take  benzoin  pulverized,  two  ounces  ; 
alcohol,  eight  ounces ;  vinegar,  two 
pounds. 

Digest  the  benzoin  in  the  alcohol  for  a 
week,  decant  the  liquor,  and  to  the  re- 
sidue add  the  vinegar  ;  after  six  days' 
infusion,  this  too  is  decanted,  and  it  and 
the  alcoholic  tincture  are  mixed  together, 
and  filtered  the  next  day.  This  vinegar 
weakened  with  water  is  a  most  excellent 
cosmetic,  and  is  in  fact  a  remedy  for  the 
ill  effects  of  pernicious  rouges  and  paints 
upon  the  skin. 

Of  Vinegars  ly  Infusion.— These  are 
either  vinegars  of  flowers  or  aromatic 


Vinaigre  de  Toilette,  ly  Sinfar,  Paris. 
— Alcohol  eight  quarts  ;  white  vifte- 
gar,  two  quarts  ;  cologne  water,  one 
pint ;  extract  of  benzoin,  two  ounces  ; 
extract  of  storax,  two  ounces ;  acetic  acid, 
four  ounces  ;  essence  of  lavender,  one 
ounce  and  a  half ;  essence  of  cinnamon, 


VINEGAKS — SALTS. 


551 


one  drachm ;  essence  of  cloves,  one 
drachm  ;  ammonia,  one  drachm. 

Mix  together  the  alcohol,  lavender, 
cinnamon  and  cloves,  and  macerate  for 
eight  days  ;  then  add  the  vinegars,  co- 
logne, extracts,  and  ammonia  ;  color,  and 
filter  through  paper. 

Vinaigre  JSosat. — Dry  rose  leaves,  red, 
half  a  pint ;  good  vinegar,  eight  quarts. 
Macerate  for  two  weeks  hi  a  closed  ves- 
sel, and  after  that  filter. 

Vinaigre  a  la  Fleur  ct?  Granger.— Fresh 
orange  flowers,  one  and  a  half  pounds  ; 
vinegar,  eight  quarts  ;  brandy  a  la  fleur 
d1  Granger*  one  quart.  Macerate  for  twelve 
days,  and  filter. 

Vinaigres  Infusees  d  la  Lavande,  de 
Sauge,  Thyme,  &c. — One  pound  of  fresh 
flowers  to  twelve  quarts  of  vinegar. 

Vinaigre  Scillitique,  for  clearing  the 
Voice. — Among  speakers  and  vocalists, 
it  is  desirable,  before  commencing  the 
exercises  of  their  vocation,  that  the 
throat  be  freed  from  all  pituitous  hoarse- 
ness. This  vinegar  accomplishes  that 
object,  and  besides  imparting  a  tone  to 
the  glottis  and  all  the  organs,  it  serves  to 
develop  and  perfect  the  voice.  Put  five 
or  six  drops  of  the  preparation  in  a  glass 
of  warm  water,,  and  gargle  therewith 
morning,  noon,  and  night  of  the  days  on 
which  the  voice  is  to  be  exerted.  Take 
of  dried  squills,  one  part ;  good  vinegar, 
twelve  parts  ;  alcohol,  half  a  part.  After 
two  weeks'  maceration  in  a  close  vessel, 
press  out  and  filter. 

Vinaigre  Alcoholique,  for  Fits  and 
Swoons. — Mix  together  equal  parts  of 
strong  concentrated  vinegar  and  alcohol ; 
and,  to  increase  its  force,  add  two  drops 
of  ether  to  the  quart.  This  composition 
is  most  excellent  in  cases  of  faulting  and 
swooning. 

The  best  preparation  for  smelling- 
bottles  is  what  is  termed  Inexhaustible 
Salts,  which  is  prepared  thus  :  Liquid 
ammonia,  one  pint  j  otto  of  rosemary 


one  drachm ;  otto  of  English  lavender, 
one  drachm ;  otto  of  bergamot,  half  a 
drachm ;  otto  of  cloves,  half  a  drachm. 
Mix  the  whole  together  with  agitation 
in  a  very  strong  and  well  stoppered 
bottle. 

This  mixture  is  used  by  filling  the 
smelling-bottles  with  any  porous  absorb- 
ent material,  such  as  asbestos,  or,  what 
is  better,  sponge  cuttings,  that  have  been 
well  be,aten,  washed  and  dried.  These 
will  retain  the  ammoniacal  odor  longer 
than  any  other  material ;  hence,  we  pre- 
sume, bottles  filled  in  this  way  are  called 
"inexhaustible,"  which  name,  however, 
they  do  not  sustain  more  than  two  or 
three  months  with  any  credit  j  the  warm 
hand  soon  dissipates  the  ammonia  under 
any  circumstances,  and  they  require  to 
be  refilled. 

Preston  Salts,  which  is  the  cheapest 
of  all  the  ammoniacal  compounds,  is  com- 
posed of  some  easily  decomposable  salt  of 
ammonia  and  lime,  such  as  equal  parts 
of  muriate  of  ammonia,  or  of  sesqui-car- 
bonate  of  ammonia,  and  of  fresh-slaked 
lime.  When  the  bottles  are  filled  with 
this  compound,  rammed  in  very  hard,  a 
drop  or  two  of  some  cheap  otto  is  poured 
on  the  top  prior  to  corking.  For  this 
purpose  otto  of  French  lavender,  or  otto 
of  bergamot,  answers  very  well.  We 
need*  scarcely  mention  that  the  corks  are 
dipped  into  melted  sealing-wax. 

Cassolettes  and  Printaniers. — Casso- 
lettes and  printaniers  are  little  ivory  boxes 
of  various  designs,  perforated  in  order  to 
allow  the  escape  of  the  odors  contained 
therein.  The  paste  used  for  filling  these 
"ivory  palaces  whereby  we  are  made 
glad,"  is  composed  of  equal  parts  of  grain 
musk,  ambergris,  seeds  of  the  vanilla- 
pod,  otto  of  roses,  and  orris  powder,  with 
enough  gum  acacia,  or  gum  tragacanth} 
to  work  the  whole  together  into  a  paste. 
These  things  are  now  principally  used  for 
perfuming  the  pocket  or  reticule,  much 


552 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


in  the  same  way  that  ornamental  silver 
and  gold  vinaigrettes  are  used. 

Sachet  a  la  Frangipanne. — Orris-root 
powder,  three  pounds ;  vitivert  powder, 
a  quarter  of  a  pound ;  santal-wood  pow- 
der, a  quarter  of  a  pound  ;  olto  of  neroli, 
one  drachm ;  otto  of  rose,  one  drachm  ; 
otto  of  santal,  one  drachm ;  musk-pods, 
ground,  one  ounce. 

The  name  of  this  sachet  has  been  hand- 
ed down  to  us  as  being  derived  jfrom  a 
Roman  alchemist  of  the  noble  family  of 
Frangipani. 

Heliotrope  Sachet. — Powdered  orris, 
two  pounds  ;  rose  leaves,  ground,  one 
pound;  tonquin  beans,  ground,  half  a 
pound;  vanilla  beans,  a  quarter  of  a 
pound;  grain  musk,  a  quarter  of  an 
ounce ;  otto  of  almonds,  five  drops.  Well 
mixed  by  sifting  in  a  coarse  sieve,  it  is 
fit  for  sale. 

It  is  one  of  the  best  sachets  made,  and 
is  so  like  in  its  odor  to  the  flower  from 
which  it  derives  its  name,  that  no  person 
unacquainted  with  its  composition  would, 
for  an  instant,  believe  it  to  be  any  other 
than  the  "  real  thing." 

Lavender  Sachet. — Lavender  flowers, 
ground,  one  pound ;  gum  benzoin,  in 
powder,  a  quarter  of  a  pound ;  otto  of 
lavender,  a  quarter  of  an  ounce. 

Sachet  d  la  Mousselaine. — Vitivert, 
in  powder,  one  pound ;  santal-wood,  half 
a  pound ;  orris,  half  a  pound  ;  black  cur- 
rant leaves,  half  a  pound;  benzoin, 
in  powder,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  ;  otto  of 
thyme,  five  drops ;  otto  of  roses,  half  a 
drachm. 

Mittefleur  Sachet. — Lavender  flowers, 
ground,  one  pound;  orris,  one  pound; 
rose  leaves,  one  pound;  benzoin,  one 
pound  ;  tonquin,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  ; 
vanilla,  a  quarter  of  a  pound;  santal,  a 
quarter  of  a  pound ;  musk  and  civet, 
two  drachms ;  cloves,  ground,  a  quarter 
of  a  pound ;  cinnamon,  two  ounces ;  all- 
spice two  ounces. 


Portugal  Sachet. — Dried  orange-peel^ 
one  pound;  dried  lemon-peel,  half  a 
pound ;  dried  orris  root,  half  a  pound ; 
otto  of  orange-peel,  one  ounce ;  otto  of 
neroli,  a  quarter  of  a  drachm ;  otto  of 
lemon  grass,  a  quarter  of  a  drachm. 

Patchouli/  Sachet. — Patchouly  herb, 
ground,  one  pound ;  otto  of  patchouly,  a 
quarter  of  a  drachm.  Patchouly  herb  is 
often  sold  in  its  natural  state,  as  import- 
ed^ tied  up  in  bundles  of  half  a  pound 
each. 

Pot  Pourri. — This  is  a  mixture  of 
dried  flowers  and  spices  not  ground. 
Dried  lavender,  one  pound  ;  whole  rose- 
leaves,  one  pound ;  crushed  orris,  coarse^ 
half  a  pound ;  broken  cloves,  two  ounces ; 
broken  cinnamon,  two  ounces;  broken 
allspice,  two  ounces. 

Rose  Sachet. — Rose  heels  or  leaves,  one 
pound;  santal  wood,  ground,  half  a 
pound ;  otto  of  roses,  a  quarter  of  an 
ounce. 

An  excellent  Water  to  prevent  Hair 
from  falling  off^  and  to  thicken  it. — Put 
four  pounds  of  unadulterated  honey  into 
a  still,  with  twelve  handfuls  of  the  ten- 
drils or  vines,  and  the  same  quantity  of 
rosemary-tops.  Distil  as  cool  and  as 
slowly  as  possible.  The  liquor  may  be 
allowed  to  drop  till  it  begins  to  taste 
sour. 

Tooth  Powder. — Powdered  orris  root, 
half  an  ounce  ;  powdered  charcoal,  two 
ounces ;  powdered  Peruvian  bark,  one 
ounce ;  prepared  chalk,  half  an  ounce ; 
oil  of  bergamot  or  lavender,  twenty  drops. 
These  ingredients  must  be  well  worked 
up  in  a  mortar,  until  thoroughly  incor- 
porated. This  celebrated  tooth-powder 
possesses  three  essential  virtues,  giving 
an  odorous  breath,  cleansing  and  purify- 
ing the  gums,  and  preserving  the  enamel ; 
the  last  rarely  found  in  popular  tooth- 
powders. 

Bandoline  for    the   Hair  (a  French 


PASTILLES,    ETC. 


553 


receipt). — To  one  quart  of  water  put  half 
an  ounce  of  quince  pips,  boil  it  nearly  an 
hour,  stirring  it  well,  strain  it  through 
a  fine  muslin,  let  it  stand  twenty-four 
hours,  and  then  add  fourteen  drops  of 
the  essential  oil  of  almonds.  A  dessert 
spoonful  of  brandy  may  be  added,  if  re- 
quired to  keep  a  long  time. 

Economical  Hair  Wash. — Take  one 
ownce  of  borax,  half  an  ounce  of  cam- 
phor, powder  these  ingredients  fine,  and 
dissolve  them  in  one  quart  of  boiling 
water ;  when  cool,  the  solution  will  be 
ready  for  use ;  damp  the  hair  frequently. 
This  wash  not  only  effectually  cleanses 
and  beautifies,  but  strengthens  the  hair, 
preserves  the  color,  and  prevents  early 
baldness.  The  camphor  will  form  into 
lumps,  but  the  water  will  be  sufficiently 
impregnated. 

-  To  make  a  Curling  Fluid  for  the  Hair. 
Melt  a  bit  of  white  bees'-wax,  about  the 
size  of  a  filbert  kernel,  in  one  ounce  of 
olive  oil,  to  this  add  one  or  two  drops  of 
otto  of  roses. 

Rose  Bandoline. — Gum  tragacanth,  six 
ounces ;  rose  water,  one  gallon  ;  otto  of 
roses,  half  an  ounce.  Steep  the  gum  in 
water  well,  strain  and  mix  thoroughly. 

Simple  Pastilles. — Benzoin,  half  an 
ounce ;  cassia,  one  drachm ;  charcoal,  two 
ounces  ;  salpetre,  one  drachm.  Reduce 
all  to  powder,  and  mix  into  a  paste  with 
a  solution  of  one  ounce  of  gum  tragacanth 
to  the  pint. 

Pastilles  au  ~benzoj,n. — Take  half  a 
pound  of  benzoin,  four  or  five  grains  of 
storax,  five  grains  of  cassia,  two  drachms 
of  dry  Peru  balsam,  half  a  drachm  of 
cloves ;  half  an  ounce  of  charcoal ;  one 
drachm  of  nitre,  half  a  drachm  essential 
oil  of  orange  flowers,  and  half  a  drachm 
tincture  of  ambergris.  All  these  materials 
must  be  in  fine  powder. 

Pastilles  a-  la  rose. — Gum,  in  impalpa- 


ble powder,  six  ounces ;  olibanum,  in  im- 
palpable powder,  six  ounces ;  storax,  in 
impalpable  powder,  six  ounces;  salt- 
petre, in  impalpable  powder,  four  ounces  ; 
Powder  a  la  rose,  impalpable  powder, 
eight  ounces  ;  charcoal,  impalpable  pow- 
der, two  pounds ;  essence  of  roses,  half 
an  ounce.  Mix  together  the  powders, 
and  add  to  them  a  quart  of  rose  water  in 
which  has  been  dissolved  an  ounce  of 
gum  tragacanth.  Rub  up  well  in  a  mor- 
tar, and  of  this  paste  form  the  pastilles. 
They  are  burned  upon  a  handsome  chaf- 
ing-dish or  perfume-pan  made  for  the 
purpose. 


Paper. — There  are  two 
modes  of  preparing  this  article  : — 1.  Take 
sheets  of  light  cartridge  paper,  and  dip 
them  into  a  solution  of  alum — say,  alum, 
one  ounce ;  water,  one  pint.  After  they 
are  thoroughly  moistened,  let  them  be 
well  dried ;  upon  one  side  of  this  paper 
spread  a  mixture  of  equal  parts  of  gum 
benzoin,  olibanum,  and  either  balm  of 
Tolu  or  Peruvian  balsam ;  or  the  benzoin 
may  be  used  alone.  To  spread  the  gum, 
&c.,  it  is  necessary  that  they  be  melted 
in  an  earthenware  vessel,  and  poured 
thinly  over  the  paper,  finally  smoothing 
the  surface  with  a  hot  spatula.  When 
required  for  use,  slips  of  this  paper  are 
held  over  a  candle  or  lamp,  in  order  to 
evaporate  the  odorous  matter,  but  not 
to  ignite  it.  The  alum  in  the  paper  pre- 
vents it  to  a  certain  extent  from  tturning. 

2.  Sheets  of  good  light  paper  are  to  be 
steeped  in  a  solution  of  saltpetre,  in  the 
proportions  of  two  ounces  of  the  salt  to 
one  pint  of  water,  to  be  afterwards 
thoroughly  dried. 

Any  of  the  odoriferous  gums,  as  myrrh, 
olibanum,  benzoin,  &c.,  are  to  be  dissolv- 
ed to  saturation  in  rectified  spirit,  and 
with  a  brush  spread  upon  one  side  of  the 
paper,  which,  being  hung  up,  rapidly 
dries. 

Slips  of  this  paper  are  to  be  rolled  up 


554 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


as  spills,  to  be  ignited,  and  then  to  be 
blown  out. 

The  nitre  in  the  paper  causes  a  con- 
tinuance of  slow  combustion,  diffusing 
during  that  time  the  agreeable  perfume 
of  the  odoriferous  gums.  If  two  of  these 
sheets  of  paper  be  pressed  together  be- 
fore the  surface  is  dry,  they  will  join  and 
become  as  one.  When  cut  into  slips, 
they  form  what  are  called  Odoriferous 
Lighters,  or  Perfumed  Spills. 

FRAGRANT  PASTILLES  FOR  NECK- 
LACES OR  BRACELETS. 
Pate    de    JKoses. — Rose    leaves,   two 
ounces ;     lampblack,    one    and    a    half 
drachms  ;  isinglass,  one  ounce  j  gum  tra- 
gacanth,  half  ounce. 

Dissolve  the  gum  and  isinglass  in  boil- 
ing water,  thicken  the  solution  by  eva- 
poration, and  add  thereto  the  other  ar- 
ticles previously  mixed  together.  When 
the  paste  is  homogeneous,  knead  it  well 
in  mass,  and  divide  into  small  beads.  It 
can  also  be  moulded  into  a  variety  of 
forms  and  designs,  in  relief,  resembling 
cameos  and  similar  ornaments. 

Pate  de  Menthe  ou  de  Jasmin. — Flow- 
ers of  mint  or  jasmine,  one  ounce  ;  gum 
tragacanth,  half  ounce  ;  vermillion,  two 
ounces.  In  this  way  red-colored  pastilles 
are  made. 

Pastilles  for  Bad  Breath—  Chocolate, 
three  ounces ;  charcoal,  one  ounce  ; 
sugar,  one  ounce  ;  vanilla,  one  ounce  ; 
mucilage,  quantum  sufficit.  Make  into  loz- 
enges of  five  grains,  and  take  four  or  five 
daily. 

Preparation  for  Bad  Breath. — Dry 
chloride  of  lime,  three  drachms  j  distilled 
water,  two  ounces. 

Powder  the  chloride  of  lime  in  a  glass 
mortar,  and  then  add  a  part  of  the  dis- 
tilled water  ;  stir  up  and  let  it  repose  for 
some  minutes ;  when  settled,  decant  the 
clear  liquor.  Add  a  new  quantity  of 
water  to  the  residue,  triturate,  and  after 
sufficient  rest,  again  draw  off  the  clear 


liquor.  Repeat  this  washing  and  decant- 
ing a  third  time  ;  add  all  the  clear  solu- 
tions together,  and  filter.  To  the  liquid 
running  through,  add  two  ounces  alcohol, 
in  which  four  drops  oil  of  rose  and  four 
drops  of  any  other  desired  oil  are  dis- 
solved. 

The  solution,  thus  prepared,  removes 
the  fetid  odor  of  diseased  gums.  The 
dose  is  half  a  table-spoonful  in  a  tum- 
bler of  water,  with  which  the  gums  are 
moistened  daily  by  means  of  a  sponge  or 
brush. 

Keep  the  bottle  always  closely  stop- 
pered to  retard  decomposition. 

To  Crystallize  Flowers.  —  Construct 
some  baskets  of  fancy  form  with  pliable 
copper  wire,  and  wrap  them  with  gauze. 
Into  these  tie  to  the  bottom  violets,  ferns, 
geranium  leaves,  —  in  fact,  any  flowers 
except  full-blown  roses,  —  and  sink  them 
in  a  solution  of  alum,  of  one  pound  to  a" 
gallon  of  water,  after  the  solution  has 
cooled.  'the  colors  will  then  be  pre- 
served in  their  original  beauty,  and  the 
crystallized  alum  will  hold  faster  than 
when  from  a  hot  solution.  When  you 
have  a  light  covering  of  crystals  that 
completely  covers  the  articles,  remove 
the  basket  carefully,  and  allow  to  drip 
for  twelve  hours.  These  baskets  make  a 
beautiful  parlor  ornament,  and  for  a  long 
time  preserve  the  freshness  of  the  flowers. 

Hair-dyes.  —  Nearly  all  the  hair-dyes 
in  use  at  the  present  time  contain  some 
form  of  lead,  and  are  therefore  danger- 
ous. The  symptoms  most  commonly  re- 
sulting from  their  use  are  partial  paraly- 
sis, numbness  of  the  back  of  the  head 
and  neck,  often  extending  to  the  arm 
and  wrist,  pains  in  the  stomach  and 
bowels,  with  other  indications  of  lead 
poisoning.  During  the  past  few  years, 
since  these  dyes  have  been  largely  used, 
many  lives  have  been  sacrificed ;  and 
those  of  ruined  health  or  impaired  con- 
stitutions may  be  counted  by  thousands. 


HAIR   DTE DEPILATORY. 


555 


These  preparations  are  generally 
represented  to  be  harmless.  The  nox- 
ious ingredient  being  usually  lead,  this 
may  be  readily  detected  by  adding  to  a 
little  of  the  suspected  dye  a  few  drops 
of  a  solution  of  hydriodate  of  potash,  to 
be  obtained  at  any  drug  store.  One 
drachm  dissolved  in  an  ounce  of  water 
will  be  of  sufficient  strength.  The 
preparation,  if  it  contains  lead,  will  be 
instantly  changed  to  a  bright  orange 
color,  the  product  being  hydriodate  of 
lead.  As  appears  by  Prof.  C.  F.  Chand- 
ler's Report  to  the  Board  of  Health  of 
New  York  City,  fifteen  out  of  sixteen 
preparations  for  the  hair  which  he  ana- 
lyzed contained  lead  in  varied  proportions 
from  .11  to  16.39  grains  in  one  fluid  ounce. 

Even  without  a  resort  to  chemical 
re-agents,  one  may  usually  satisfy  himself 
of  the  contents  of  these  compounds  by 
the  peculiar  sticky  feeling  of  acetate  of 
lead  when  rubbed  between  the  fingers, 
or  by  placing  a  drop  upon  the  tongue 
and  noting  the  sweetish  astringent  taste 
of  the  salt.  Avoid  as  you  would  any 
other  deadly  poison  all  dyes  or  hair- 
dressings  which  contain  lead  in  any  of 
its  various  forms.  See  Hair-dressing 
page  566. 

Chinese  Depilatory. — Quicklime,  one 
pound  ;  pearlash  and  sulphuret  of  potas- 
sium, each,  two  ounces.  Triturate  to- 
gether, sieve,  and  preserve  the  fine  pow- 
der in  a  well-stopped  bottle. 

Creme  Parisienne  Depilatoire.—Take 
quicklime,  two  ounces  ;  orpiment  (sul- 
phuret of  arsenic),  half  an  ounce  ;  alka- 
net  in  powder,  two  drachms. 

Mix  together  and  pack  up  in  bottles  or 
boxes,  bearing  directions  as  follows,  and 
to  be  strictly  conformed  to  in  the  appli- 
cation of  the  powder : 

Put  some  pinches  into  a  saucer  or  egg- 
glass,  and  pour  upon  it  enough  warm  wa- 
ter to  thin  it  into  a  pasty  or  pap  consis- 
tence, and  apply  it  in  this  form  to  the 


places  to  be  depilated.  Let  it  remain  five 
to  eight  minutes,  then  moisten  with  a 
little  warm  water,  and  gently  remove  the 
dampened  stuff  with  the  point  of  a  knife. 
Afterwards  sponge  the  part  with  warm 
water  and  dry  without  rubbing. 

It  is  necessary  that  there  should  al- 
ways be  an  interval  of  twenty-four  hours 
between  any  two  applications  of  this 
powder. 

Eau  de  Javelle  (rectified.')— This  water 
is  used  both  as  a  disinfectant,  and  for  the 
removal  of  fruit,  rust,  and  ink  stains.  It 
is  prepared  by  saturating  an  aqueous  so- 
lution of  potash  with  chlorine  gas.  A 
few  drops,  washing  the  linen  afterwards 
with  soap,  will  bleach  it  perfectly. 

Ink  for  Marking  Linen. — Sulphate  of 
manganese,  one  drachm ;  distilled  wa- 
ter, one  drachiQ  ;  powdered  sugar,  two 
drachms  ;  lampblack,  half  a  drachm. 

Make  into  a  semi-liquid  paste.  This 
paste  is  used  with  a  stamp.  The  mark 
is  dried,  then  washed  in  solution  of  caus- 
tic potash  and  dried  anew  ;  then  again 
washed  in  water.  The  name  now  stands 
out  boldly. 

Shaving  Pastes. — White  wax,  sperma- 
ceti, amd  almond  oil,  of  each,  quarter  of 
an  ounce  ;  melt,  and  while  warm,  beat 
in  two  squares  of  Windsor  soap,  pre- 
viously reduced  to  a  paste,  with  rose 
water. 

Another. — Melt  together  half  an  ounce 
each  of  spermaceti,  white  wax,  and  oil  of 
almonds  ;  beat  it  up  with  three  ounces 
of  the  best  soap,  and  a  sufficient  quantity 
of  eau  de  Cologne. 

Preparation  of  Good  Hair  Dye. — Ten 
grains  gallic  acid  in  one  ounce  weak  al- 
cohol. 

For  the  Ztye.— Four  grains  nitrate  of 
silver  in  one  ounce  of  water  with  half  a 
drachm  of  aqua  ammonia. 

Add  the  ammonia  cautiously  till  the 
precipitate  dissolves. 


THE    FAMILY   MEDICAL    GUIDE. 


No  directions  here  given  are  intended 
to  supply  the  place  of  medical  attendance. 
A  little  medical  knowledge  is  a  danger- 
ous thing,  and  this  temporizing  with  the 
constitution  is  often  attended  with  the 
worst  results.  It  would,  therefore,  be 
an  act,  of  folly  and  danger  for  the  non- 
professional  to  presume  to  decide  on  the 
ailment,  and  equally  so  to  prescribe  for 
it.  At  the  same  time,  it  is  well  to  gain 
all  the  information  possible. 

The  following  recipes  have  been  sub- 
mitted to  a  physician : — 

For  Hooping  Cough. — Dissolve  one 
scruple  of  salt  of  tartar  in  a  gill  of  soft 
water ;  add  to  it  ten  grains  of  cochineal, 
finely  powdered,  and  sweeten  it  with 
lump  sugar.  The  dose  for  an  infant  is  a 
teaspoonful  four  times  a  day ;  from  five 
years  old  upwards,  a  table-spoonful  may 
be  taken.  The  following  embrocation  for 
spasmodic  coughs  of  all  kinds,  as  well  as 
for  inflammatory  croup,  is  valuable :  Two 
drachms  of  tincture  of  opium,  two  ounces 
of  camphor  liniment.  A  teaspoonful  to 
be  rubbed  in  over  the  throat  and  chest 
every  night  and  morning,  and  cover  the 
parts  immediately  with  flannel.  If  the 
chest  is  loaded  with  phlegm,  a  gentle 
emetic  must  be  given  once,  twice,  or 
three  times  a  week,  as  required.  Ipeca- 
cuanha wine  is  most  suitable,  and  the 
dose  for  a  child  of  four  or  five  years  is 
two  and  a  half  or  three  drachms. 

During  the  first  stages  of  this  disorder 


the  patient  should  breathe  an  equal  tem- 
perature, as  nearly  as  it  can  be  managed, 
not  too  warm  and  close,  but  equal ;  and 
when  the  virulence  of  the  disorder  has 
passed  away,  the  open  air  (if  the  weather 
be  mild)  may  be  frequently  resorted  to  : 
and  a  change  of  air,  where  it  is  practi- 
cable, will  often  remove  at  once  all  remains 
of  the  'complaint. 

The  diet  is, of  paramount  importance  , 
and  for  children  of  evet;  six  and  seven 
years  of  age.  ought  to  be  little  more  than 
milk  and  broth.  Should  the  milk  be 
found  to  curdle  on  the  stomach,  a  little 
common  salt  must  be  added.  If  thirst 
prevails,  a  little  toast  and  water  may  be 
given.  If  the  attack,  from  its  length  and 
severity,  should  cause  a  loss  of  strength, 
it  will  soon  be  recruited  by  a  cold  infusion 
of  bark,  gentle  exercise,  pure  air,  and  diet 
of  nourishing  broth. 

Mixture  for  Hooping  Cough. — Ipeca- 
cuanha wine,  two  drachms ;  carbonate  of 
soda,  half  a  drachm  ;  paregoric  elixir,  two 
drachms ;  water,  one  ounce.  A  teaspoon- 
ful or  two  (according  to  the  age  of  the 
patient)  may  be  given  three  times  a 
day. 

Scarlet  Fever,  or  Scarlatina. — This 
disease  begins  with  the  common  symp- 
toms of  fever,  often  with  languor  and 
disposition  to  fainting,  shiverings,  sick- 
ness, a  quick  pulse,  and  pain  in  the  head ; 
there  is  frequently,  very  early  in  the  dis- 
order, a  stitfness  of  the  muscles  of  the 


FAMILY   MEDICAL   GUIDE. 


557 


neck,  which  is  soon  followed  by  some 
difficulty  in  swallowing. 

To  determine  the  eruption  to  the  sur- 
face of  the  body,  it  will  be  right  to  give 
the  simple  saline,  made  as  follows  :  Take 
of  citric  acid  one  drachm  and  a  half;  bi 
carbonate  of  potash,  two  drachms ;  water, 
seven  ounces  and  a  half;  simple  syrup, 
half  an  ounce;  spirits  of  nitre,  two 
drachms.  Mix,  and  take  a  sixth  part 
every  four  hours.  If  the  child  is  very 
young,  give  half  the  dose. 

Throughout  the  whole  of  this  disease 
it  will  be  advisable  to  make  frequent  use 
of  some  detergent  (cleansing)  gargle, 
which  in  young  children  must  be  thrown 
into  the  throat  with  a  syringe. 

Detergent  Gargle. — Take  of  purified 
alum  one  drachm ;  barley  water,  half  a 
pint ;  honey  of  roses,  one  ounce. 

Draught  for  Palpitation  of  the  Heart, 
with  great  nervous  Irritability. — Tinc- 
ture of  foxglove,  ten  drops ;  ,  camphor 
mixture,  one  ounce  ;  tincture  of  columba, 
one  drachm.  This  draught  may  be  taken 
twice  a  day. 

Mixture  for  Children  Teething,  when 
the  Bowels  are  disordered. — Chalk  mix- 
ture, fifteen  drachms  ;  tincture  of  cinna- 
mon, one  drachm.  Mix  together.  Two 
teaspoonfuls  to  be  given  three  or  four 
times  a  day  .as  required. 

Primrose   Ointment,  for  Burns    and 
Ulcers. — Bruise  one  pound  of  the  leaves 
of  this  well  known  plant,  in  a  mortar, 
along  with  half  a  pound  of  the  flowers ; 
simmer  these  in  an  equal  quantity  of  j 
hog's-lard,  without  salt,  until  the  prim-  j 
roses  become  crisp ;  after  which  the  oint-  : 
rnent,   whilst    fluid,  must    be    strained  I 
through  a  coarse  sieve.     This  is  an  ex- 
cellent application  for  obstinate  ulcers  or  | 
burns.  & 

V 

Excellent  Medicine  for  Indigestion. — 
Carbonate  of  magnesia,  one  ounce  ;  car- 


bonate of  soda,  one  ounce ;  powdered 
ginger,  one  drachm ;  best  Turkey  rhubarb, 
half  a  drachm.  Well  mixed  in  a  mortar, 
to  be  kept  in  a  bottle  with  a  glass  stopper. 
The  dose  for  an  adult  is  half  a  teaspoon- 
fuL 

For  Inflammation  of  the  Eyes. — Bran- 
dy, one  teaspoonful ;  white  wine  vinegar, 
one  teaspoonful;  soft  water,  nine  tea- 
spoonfuls.  Mix — and  to  be  used  fre- 
quently. 

Cure  for  Ringworm,. — The  head  to  be 
washed  twice  a  day  with  soft  soap  and 
warm  soft  water ;  when  dried,  the  places 
to  be  rubbed  with  a  piece  of  linen  rag 
dipped  in  ammonia  from  gas  tar ;  the 
patient  should  take  a  little  sulphur  and 
molasses,  or  some  other  gentle  aperient, 
every  morning;  brushes  and  combs 
should  be  washed  every  day,  and  the  am- 
monia kept  tightly  corked. 

Or : — Mix  pyroligneous  acid  with  one- 
third  of  water ;  rub  the  spots  carefully 
for  three  mornings :  if  cured,  a  scurf  will 
appear,  which  must  be  softened  with  cold 
cream,  or  lard  without  salt,  but  no  soap 
or  water  must  be  used. 

It  is  desirable  to  cut  off  the  hair  from 
the  immediate  neighborhood  of  the  ring  j 
and  after  tfie  cure  is  effected,  weaken  the 
lotion  still  farther,  by  the  addition  of 
more  water,  and  well  wash  the  head  all 
over  with  it.  It  seldom  happens  that 
an  internal  use  of  medicine  is  requisite  ; 
but  where  the  disease  is  very  inveterate, 
I  would  recommend  a  powder  to  be 
given  at  bed-time,  once  or  twice.  The 
following  will  answer  very  well  for  a 
child  of  seven  years  of  age :  calomel,  one 
grain  ;  jalap,  powder,  eight  grains. 

The  great  Abernethy  used  to  say  poul- 
tices were  blessings  or  curses,  as  they 
were  made ;  I  cannot,  therefore,  insert  a 
more  useful  recipe  than  that  of  this  cele- 
brated surgeon's  for  a  well  made 

Bread  and  Water  Poultice. — Scald  out 


558 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


a  basin,  into  which  boiling  water  is  to  be 
turned,  then  add  coarsely-crumbled  bread 
as  much  as  the  water  will  absorb.  After 
a  little  time  drain  off  the  surplus  water, 
and  spread  the  light  pulp  remaining  one- 
third  of  an  inch  thick  on  folded  linen, 
and  apply  it  of  the  temperature  of  a 
warm  bath.  As  it  becomes  dry  from  the 
heat  of  the  part,  moisten  by  dropping 
on  a  little  warm  water. 

Fever  and  Ague.— The  title  of  inter- 
mittent is  applied  to  that  kind  of  fever, 
which  consists  of  a  succession  of  parox- 
ysms, between  each  of  which  there  is  a 
distinct  and  perfect  intermission  from 
fever  symptoms.  When  it  comes  on 
within  the  space  of  twenty-four  hours,  it 
is  called  a  quoitidian,  when  it  returns 
every  other  day,  it  is  called  a  tertian ; 
and  when  it  attends  on  the  first  and 
fourth  day,  it  is  named  a  quartan  ague. 
It  is  very  generally  acknowledged  that 
marsh  exhalations,  or  the  effluvia  arising 
from  stagnant  water  when  acted  upon  by 
heat,  are  the  most  frequent  exciting 
causes  of  ague. 

Uncleared  lands  are  also  a  fruitful 
cause.  Hence  its  prevalence  in  all  new 
countries.  Intermittent  fever  often  ap- 
pears in  disguise ;  sometimes  putting  on 
the  form  of  periodical  headache  or  neu- 
ralgia, which  come  on  with  the  same 
regularity  as  the  chill,  and  seem  to  take 
its  place.  At  other  times  it  is  still  more 
obscure,  existing  in  the  form  of  dumb 
ague,  as  it  is  termed.  Under  all  these 
disguises  there  is  usually  but  little  diffi- 
culty in  detecting  it,  through  its  regular 
periodical  return  —  being  generally 
prompt  to  the  hour,  and  not  unfrequently 
to  the  minute.  Periodicity,  therefore, 
rather  than  peculiar  symptoms,  is  the 
test  of  miasmal  complaints.  The  usual 
mode  of  treating  fever  and  ague  has 
been  with  tonics,  with  the  view  of 
breaking  the  chill,  but  nothing  is  done  to 
remove  the  disease  of  the  liver  and 


other  organs  on  which  the  chill  and 
fever  depend.  Relapses  are  the  conse- 
quence. The  sufferer  is  only  cured  for 
a  time:  he  is  relieved  of  a  symptom  of 
disease,  not  of  the  disease  itself.  We 
know  of  no  compound  more  reliable  for 
a  thorough  and  effectual  cure  than  Os- 
good's  Cholagogue,  a  medicine  which 
has  been  before  the  public  more  than 
thirty  years,  and  has  become  the  standard 
remedy  for  these  complaints.  The  pub- 
lisher of  this  book  has  for  a  long  time 
used  it  himself,  and  in  his  family,  and 
often  recommended  it  to  others,  and  is 
yet  to  learn  of  an  instance  in  which  it 
has  failed  to  effect  a  cure.  It  is  espe- 
cially valuable  also  as  a  preventive  for 
persons  residing  in  malarial  regions,  or 
traveling  through  them.  By  taking  a 
teaspoonful  of  the  cholagogue,  morning 
and  night,  when  thus  exposed,  all  danger, 
with  ordinary  care,  will  be  avoided. 

Erysipelas. — This  disease  is  an  inflam- 
matory affection  principally  of  the  skin, 
when  it  makes  its  appearance  externally. 
If  there  is  fever  and  inflammation,  it  will 
be  proper  to  administer  aperient  medi- 
cines, and  nothing,  .perhaps,  suits  your 
purpose  better  than  the  old-fashioned 
black-draught — senna  and  salts.  The  ex^ 
ternal  application  of  Goulard's  Lotion 
will  allay  heat  and  irritation.  The  pa- 
tient must  drink  freely  of  tea,  bran  tea,  or 
warm  barley  water,  and  this  is  a  neces- 
sary part  of  the  treatment,  which  must 
never  be  neglected.  The  vesicles  must 
be  kept  lightly  covered  with  pure,  un- 
adulterated wheat  flour;  when  the  in- 
flammatory symptoms  run  high,  the  diet 
must  consist  of  light  nourishing  food,  such 
as  sago,  arrowroot,  bread  pudding,  and 
such  like  things  ;  but  in  those  cases 
where  symptoms  of  irritation  prevail, 
a  more  generous  diet,  such  as  animal 
broths,  ought  to  be  allowed. 

Spirit  Wash.— Half  a  gill  of  spirits  of 


FAMILY   MEDICAL   GUIDE. 


559 


wine,  or  a  gill  of  brandy,  added  to  a  pint 
of  water,  makes  this  wash  useful  in  al- 
laying the  pain  of  extensive  bruises. 

Plummets  Pill,  for  Eruptions  on  the 
Skin. — Calomel  and  antimony,  of  each, 
one  drachm  j  guaiacum  powder,  two 
drachms. 

Useful  Mixture  for  Diarrhoea  in  In- 
fants.— Carbonate  of  magnesia,  half  a 
drachm ;  rhubarb,  in  powder,  twenty 
grains  ;  dill  water,  three  ounces ;  aroma- 
tic spirit  of  ammonia,  thirty  drops  ;  su- 
gar, teaspoonful.  Mix  :  Two  teaspoon- 
fuls  may  be  given  two  or  three  times  a 
day. 

Goulard  Lotion,  or  Lead  Wash,  may 
be  made  by  dissolving  one  drachm  of 
sugar  of  lead  in  a  pint  of  soft  water. 
Some  persons  are  very  fond  of  using  this 
wash,  with  the  adoption  of  spirits  of 
wine,  as  an  evaporate  ;  but  I  do  not  like 
it,  for  it  renders  the  skin  very  dry  and 
harsh,  and  its  sedative  virtue  acting 
through  unbroken  skin,  is  not  of  much 
value.  Tinder  other  circumstances  it  is 
very  often  useful. 

When  used  as  a  wash  for  the  eyes, 
two  grains  of  the  sugar  of  lead  are  to  be 
dissolved  in  two  table-spoonfuls  of  water. 

Bran  Tea. — A  very  cheap  and  useful 
drink  in  colds,  fevers,  and  restlessness 
from  pain.  Put  a  handful  of  bran  in  a 
pint  and  a  half  of  cold  water,  let  it  boil 
rather  more  than  half  an  hour,  then 
strain  it,  and,  if  desired,  flavor  with  su- 
gar and  lemon-juice  ;  but  it  is  a  pleasant 
drink  without  any  addition. 

Electuary  for  Scorbutic  Eruptions. — 
Peruvian  bark,  powdered,  half  an  ounce ; 
aromatic  confection,  half  an  ounce  j  syrup 
of  oranges,  sufficient  quantity  to  mix  the 
bark  and  confection  ;  and  take  the  size 
of  a  nutmeg,  three  times  a  day,  in  a  glass 
of  seidlitz  or  soda  water. 

Draught  for  Hysteric  Patients. — Cam- 
phor mixture,  one  ounce  j  foetid  spirit  of 
ammonia,  two  drachms. 


I 


Fever  Draught. — Almond  mixture,  one 
ounce  ;  carbonate  of  potass,  twenty 
grains  ;  syrup  of  poppies,  one  drachm. 
Pour  into  this  a  table-spoonful  of  lemon 
juice,  and  drink  while  effervescing. 

Ointments. — The  base  of  all  ointments 
is  grease,  and  they  are  used  for  dressing 
wounds  and  sores,  to  prevent  the  stick- 
ing of  the  lint  or  linen  with  which  they 
are  covered,  and  protect  them  from  the 
air  ;  the  most  simple  kinds  serve  this 
purpose  best;  but  sometimes  medicine 
of  various  kinds  is  mixed  up  with  grease, 
to  form  ointments,  through  the  means 
of  which  the  medicine  acts  on  the  sur- 
face of  the  sore. 

Simple  Ointment  is  made  by  melting 
in  a  pipkin  by  the  side  of  the  fire,  with- 
out lotting,  one  part  of  yellow  or  white 
wax,  and  two  parts  of  hog's  lard,  without 
salt  or  olive  oil. 

Resin  Ointment  or  Yellow  Basilicon  is 
composed  of  two  ounces  of  yellow  wax, 
five  ounces  of  white  resin,  and  seven 
ounces  of  hog's-lard  ;  these  must  be 
slowly  melted  together,  and  stirred  con- 
stantly with  a  stick,  till  completely 
mixed. 

This  ointment  is  sometimes  used  in 
treating  scalds  and  burns  ;  also  for 
dressing  blisters,  when  it  is  wished  to 
keep  up  a  discharge  from  them  for  a  few 
days.  This  is  a  stimulating  ointment. 

Calamine  Ointment,  or  Turners  Ce- 
rate, consists  of  half  a  pound  of  yellow 
wax,  and  a  pint  of  olive  oil,  which  are  to 
be  melted  together  ;  this  being  done, 
half  a  pound  of  calamine  powder  is  to  be 
sifted  in,  and  stirred  till  the  whole  be 
completely  mixed. 

This  is  an  excellent  ointment  for  stim- 
ulating sluggish  wounds  or  sores. 

Development  of  the  Lungs. — Multi- 
tudes, and  especially  ladies  in  easy  circum- 
stances, contract  a  vicious  and  destruc- 
tive mode  of  breathing,  not  carrying  the 
breath  half  way  down  the  chest,  and 


560 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


scarcely  expanding  the  lower  portions  of 
the  chest  at  all.  Children  that  move 
about  a  great  deal  in  the  open  air,  and  are 
in  no  way  laced,  breathe  deep  and  full  in 
the  bottom  of  the  chest,  and  every  part 
of  it.  The  lungs  give  us  the  power  of 
action,  and  the  more  exercise  we  take, 
especially  out  of  doors,  the  larger  the 
lungs  become,  and  the  less  liable  to  dis- 
ease. In  all  occupations  that  require 
standing,  keep  the  person  straight.  If  at 
table,  let  it  be  high,  raised  up  nearly  to 
the*  armpits,  so  as  not  to  require  you  to 
stoop  ;  you  will  find  the  employment 
much  easier ;  while  the  form  of  the 
chest  and  symmetry  of  the  figure  will  re- 
main perfect. 

The  Nettle  Rash.— This  disease  takes 
its  name  from  its  being  attended  by  an 
eruption  similar  to  what  is  produced  by 
the  stinging  of  nettles.  In  some  cases  it  is 
accompanied  with  large  wheals  or  bumps, 
which  appear  of  a  solid  nature,  without 
any  cavity  or  head,  containing  either  wa- 
ter or  other  fluid.  Nothing  is  so  effica- 
cious in  this  disorder  as  half  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  magnesia,  and  the  same  quantity  of 
cream  of  tartar,  mixed  in  half  a  teacupful 
of  milk,  an  hour  before  breakfast,  and 
repeated  as  required. 

Sprain. — To  treat  a  sprain  properly, 
it  should  be  kept  perfectly  at  rest ;  and, 
if  it  be  of  the  ankle  or  knee,  the  patient 
must  lie  in  bed,  or  on  a  sofa.  Warmf 
moist  flannels  should  be  repeatedly  ap- 
plied for  some  hours,  and  a  bread-and- 
water  poultice  on  going  to  bed.  These 
should  be  continued  for  some  days,  and 
no  attempt  made  to  use  the  joint.  If  the 
pain  be  very  severe,  and  it  continues  so 
for  the  firift  or  following  days,  leeches 
may  be  applied,  and  repeated  if  necessary. 
Some  persons  are  fond  of  putting  on  a 
vinegar  poultice  at  once  ;  but  this  is  bet- 
ter left  alone  till  the  tenderness  has  sub- 
Bided,  and  there  remains  only  a  little  pain 
and  stiffness  in  the  joint.  Then  a  vine- 


gar poultice  is  a  very  good  application, 
as  it  produces  a  diversion  of  the  inflam- 
mation going  on  in  the  ligaments,  by  bring- 
ing out  a  crop  of  pimples  on  the  skin,  at 
a  time  when  the  pressure  of  rubbing  in 
any  stimulating  lotion  cannot  be  borne. 

When  the  pain  has  entirely  ceased,  the 
joint  must  not  be  carelessly  used  ;  and, 
if  it  be  the  knee  or  ankle  sprained,  walk- 
ing till  the  joints  become  weak  and  ache 
must  be  most  carefully  avoided,  as  ir- 
reparable mischief  is  thereby  very  often 
caused. 

A  joint  often  swells  a  long  time  after 
a  sprain  ;  under  which  circumstances  it  is 
best  to  bind  it  up  with  straps  of  soap- 
plaster  or  a  roller. 

Excellent  Medicine  for  Rheumatism. — 
Powdered  gum  guaiacum,  eight  grains  ; 
flour  of  sulphur,  two  drachms  ;  powder- 
ed rhubarb,  fifteen  grains  ;  cream  of  tar« 
tar,  one  drachm ;  powdered  ginger,  thirty 
grains  ;  powdered  nutmeg,  eight  grains. 

To  be  made  into  an  electuary,  with  two 
ounces  of  clarified  honey  ;  a  teaspoonful 
to  be  taken  night  and  morning. 

For  Sprains  and  Bruises,  especially 
where  the  parts  are  discolored  with  blood 
underneath  the  skin,  and  for  rheumatic 
swelling  of  the  joints  : — Vinegar,  one 
pint  ;  distilled  water,  half  a  pint ,  recti- 
fied spirits,  one  and  a  half  pints  j  cam- 
phor, two  ounces. 

Mix  the  vinegar  and  water,  dissolve 
the  camphor  in  the  spirit  of  wine,  and 
then  put  them  all  together. 

For  sprains,  bruises,  and  other  in- 
juries, when  the  skin  is  not  broken,  car- 
bonate of  ammonia,  two  ounces  ;  vinegar, 
two  pints  ;  proof  spirit,  -three  pints. 

Mix  the  ammonia  with  the  vinegar  ; 
when  the  effervescence  ceases,  add  the 
spirit.  In  inflammation  of  the  joints  of 
some  standing,  this  is  mixed  with  linseed 
meal,  and  applied  as  a  poultice,  twice 
a-day. 
Aperient  Electuary.-- A  very  useful  fain- 


FAMILY   MEDICAL    GUIDE. 


561 


ily  medicine,  particularly  good  for  those 
who  are  troubled  with  asthma  or  rheu- 
matism. One  ounce  of  senna  powder, 
half  an  ounce  of  flour  of  sulphur,  two 
drachms  of  powdered  ginger,  half  a 
drachm  of  saffron  powder,  four  ounces  of 
honey.  The  size  of  a  nutmeg  to  be  taken 
night  and  morning. 

For  Heartburn. — Carbonate  of  mag- 
nesia, ten  grains  ;  carbonate  of  soda,  five 
grains  ;  ginger  in  powder,  five  grains  ; 
liquorice  in  powder,  fifteen  grains.  Take 
as  a  powder  two  or  three  times  during 
the  day. 

Zinc  Ointment  is  made  by  rubbing  well 
together  one  ounce  of  oxide  of  zinc,  and 
six  ounces  oF  hog's  lard.  This  ointment 
is  useful  for  chilblains  ;  *!t  is  also  com- 
monly used  for  dressing  the  sores  re- 
maining after  scalds  and  burns,  to  absorb 
the  great  discharge  which  generally  fol- 
lows ;  and  it  is  a  very  good  application  to 
cracked  skin,  from  which  a  watery  fluid 
oozes  and  irritates  the  neighboring  skin. 

Leeches.' — Leeches  should  be  kept  in  a 
cool  place,  in  a  stone  '4>r  glass  jar,  filled 
with  soft  water,  and  tied  over  with  coarse 
muslin  to  prevent  their  escape,  though  it 
allows  them  air.  The  water  should  be 
changed  only  when  it  begins  to  get  foul, 
as  too  frequent  disturbing  destroys  them. 
The  part  on  which  they  are  to  be  ap- 
plied should  be  carefully  wiped  with  a 
cool  moist  cloth,  so  as  to  leave  it  damp. 
If  they  do  not  take  readily,  the  part  may 
be  moistened  with  a  little  sugar  and  wa- 
ter, or  milk.  But  if  this  does  not  an- 
swer, the  skin  may  be  gently  scratched 
with  a  needle-point,  till  the  blood  comes, 
and  then  they  will  take.  If  it  be  wished 
to  put  the  leeches  as  near  as  possible  on 
one  spot,  the  best  plan  is  to  put  them  all 
in  the  deep  part  of  a  pill-box,  or  in  a 
small  wine-glass,  which  is  to  be  turned 
down  on  the  part.  If  you  wish  them  to 
spread  over  a  large  surface,  as  upon  one 
of  the  limbs  or  the  stomach,  they  must 


be  put  on  singly  and  by  hand,  which  is 
often  very  tedious  and  tiresome  work. 
They  should  then  be  held  tightly  by  the 
tail,  wrapped  in  a  piece  of  wet  rag,  so 
that  they  may  be  less  inconvenienced  by 
the  heat  of  the  hand  ;  and  if  the  leech  do 
not  soon  fix,  it  is  best  to  put  it  again  into 
the  water  to  cool  itself,  and  after  apply- 
ing others,  to  try  it  again.  It  is  always 
best  to  have  more  leeches  than  the  num- 
ber directed,  in  case  some  will  not  bite. 

When  the  proper  number  have  been 
applied,  they  should  be  left  quite  alone, 
or  they  are  apt  to  unfix,  and,  wandering 
about,  are  of  no  further  use.  When  they 
have  sucked  their  fill,  they  generally  drop 
off,  and  should  then  be  put  in  a  plate 
with  a  little  salt,  which  quickly  makes 
them  throw  up  the  Wood  ;  and,  as  soon 
as  they  have  emptied  themselves,  they 
should  be  put  into  plenty  of  fresh  cold 
water,  so  that  they  may  get  free  from  the 
salt,  for  if  left  in  it,  or  if  too  much  be  put 
on  them,  they  contract  violently,  and  die 
almost  immediately. 

After  the  leeches  have  come  off,  the 
bleeding  from  the  wounds  is  to  be  en- 
couraged, by  first  quickly  sponging  off 
whatever  clotted  blood  there  may  be,  and 
then  covering  the  part  with  a  warm 
bread-ajid-water  poultice,  which  must  be 
changed  every  half  hour,  «o  long  as  it 
inay  be  thought  necessary  to  keep  up  the 
bleeding.  This  is  much  better  than  leav- 
ing the  surface  exposed,  and  mopping 
with  a  warm  sponge,  which  is  very  fa- 
tiguing to  the  patient,  besides  exposing 
him  to  the  danger  of  taking  cold. 

If  a  leech-bite  continue  bleeding  for 
some  hours,  and  the  person,  more  espe- 
cially if  an  infant,  begins  to  be  very  faint, 
and  the  countenance  and  lips  pallid  and 
cold,  like  marble,  no  time  must  be  lost  in 
stopping  the  bleeding. 

This  is  done  by  pressure  with  the  fin- 
ger ;  but,  if  that  fail,  by  applying  caustic, 
or  by  running  a  moderate-sized  darning 
needle  into  the  skin  on •< one.  side  of  the 


562 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


bite,  and  bringing  its  point  well  out  on 
the  other  side.  The  whole  wound  is 
thus  lifted  up,  and  a  piece  of  silk  or 
strong 'thread,  is  then  to  be  wound  round 
and  round  the  bite,  under  the  two  ends 
of  the  needle.  This  will  raise  it  up  like 
a  small  spot,  and  generally  stops  the 
bleeding  very  effectually.  In  four  days 
cut  the  silk  and  draw  out  the  needle 
carefully,  and  there  the  matter  usually 
ends.  But  in  a  peculiar  state  of  consti- 
tution, sometimes  even  after  the  removal 
of  the  needle  and  thread,  the  bleeding 
will  continue.  Nothing  then  remains, 
but  to  touch  the  bottom  of  the  wound 
with  a  bit  of  thin  iron  wire  heated 
white-hot,  which  never  fails  to  stop  the 
bleeding.  Though  this  may  seem  a  very 
horrible  proceeding,  it  is  not  very  pain- 
ful if  the  iron  be  white-hot,  as  it  destroys 
sensation  in  an  instant ;  but  whether  it 
give  pain  or  not  is  a  matter  of  no  con- 
sequence, as  it  is  the  only  sure  mode  of 
saving  the  patient. 

Pimples. — A  weak  solution  of  sugar  of 
lead  or  sulphate  of  zinc  may  be  used  as 
a  wash ;  if  not  effective,  try — camphorated 
spirit,  two  drachms,  corrosive  sublimate 
of  mercury,  one  grain,  rose  water  or  al- 
mond water  half  a  pint,  to  be  applied 
night  and  morning.  When  there  is  great 
irritability  of  the  skin,  a  decoction  of  the 
woody  nightshade  may  be  used  instead 
of  the  rose  or  almond-water.  If  pimples 
arise  from  the  condition  of  the  blood, 
then  cooling  purgatives  must  be  taken. 
A  Plummer's  pill  at  night,  and  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  decoction  of  Sarsaparilla 
twice  a  day  with  salts  and  senna  once  a 
week,  are  excellent  medicines. 

For  Chicken-Pox. — Let  the  patient 
partake  freely  of  water  or  cooling  drinks, 
as  thirst  is  always  an  attendant  on  the 
disease,  and  gentle  laxatives  should  be 
occasionally  given, — a  teaspoonful  of 
lenitive  electuary  with  a  little  milk  of 
sulphur  in  it,  is  all  that  is  generally  re- 


quired ;  but  should  febrile  symptoms  run 
high,  it  may  be  advisable  to  take  two  or 
three  saline  draughts  during  the  day. 
The  following  is  a  recipe  for  an  excellent 
saline,  to  be  drunk  while  effervescing. 
Twenty  grains  of  carbonate  of  soda  dis- 
solved in  a  tumbler  containing  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  water ;  add  two  teaspoon- 
fuls  of  lump-sugar  rolled ;  then  put  a 
dessert-spoonful  of  lemon-juice  into  a 
wine-glass  (or  fifteen  grains  of  citric 
acid  dissolved  in  one  table-spoonful  of 
water.)  Pour  it  into  the  tumbler  and 
drink  it  while  the  effervescence  is  talking 
place. 

Croup. — The  cause  of  this  disease  is  a 
morbid  secretion  of  thick  mucus  in 
the  trachea  (.windpipe),  adhering  so 
firmly  to  its  sides  as  to  impede  respira- 
tion. 

A  warm  bath  should  immediately  be 
administered,  and  an  emetic  given  as 
soon  as  possible  ;  say,  ten  drops  of  anti- 
monial  wine  for  a  child  of  three  years  of 
age,  and  repeated  every  quarter  of  an 
hour,  until  effectual,  and  according  to  the 
age  and  strength  tff  the  patient :  a  blister 
should  be  applied  across  the  throat,  the 
sufferer  being  made  to  inhale  the  vapor 
of  warm  water  with  vinegar  in'  it,  and 
kept  nearly  upright  in  bed.  A  doctor 
should  be  procured  as  soon  as  possible. 

Children  liable  to  this  disease  should 
be  warmly  clad,  wearing  flannel  next  the 
skin,  and  an  emetic  given  upon  the  ear- 
liest appearance  of  the  attack. 

Elder-flower  Ointment  is  the  mildest, 
blandest,  and  most  cooling  ointment,  as 
the  old  women  term  it,  which  can  be 
used,  and  is  very  suitable  for  anointing 
the  face  or  neck,  when  sun-burnt.  It  is 
made  of  fresh  Elder-flowers  stripped  from 
the  stalks,  two  pounds  of  which  are  sim- 
mered in  an  equal  quantity  of  hog's  lard 
till  they  become  crisp,  after  which  the 
ointment,  whilst  fluid,  is  strained  through 
a  coarse  sieve. 


FAMILY   MEDICAL   GUIDE. 


563 


Chilblains. — The  mode  of  prevention 
of  chilblains  will  be  at  once  perceived, 
viz. : — To  protect  the  parts  most  liable 
to  the  attack  (hands  and  feet)  from 
sudden  alternations,  either  from  cold  to 
heat,  or  from  heat  to  cold.  To  keep  the 
constitution  in  such  a  healthy  state,  as 
to  make  all  parts  possess  such  vitality  as 
to  be  able  to  resist  slight  alternations  in 
temperature. 

Woollen  stockings  or  socks,  and  warm, 
boots  and  shoes,  should  be  worn  in  the 
street.  Warm  leather  gloves  are  better 
for  the  hands  than  woollen  ones,  through 
which  the  dry  frosty  air  is  apt  to  pierce 
and  chap  the  hands.  Tight  wristbands, 
tight  garters,  and  boots  that  lace  or  but- 
ton tightly  about  the  ankles,  must  be 
avoided.  The  most  frequent  cause  of 
chilblain  is  the  warming  of  numbed 
hands  or  feet  at  the  fire.  A  good  con- 
stitutional remedy  is  small  doses  of  tar- 
trate  of  antimony  wine,  which  constringe 
the  enlarged  vessels.  A  drachm  of  the 
wine  may  be  added  to  half  a  pint  of 
water,  in  which  a  drachm  of  saltpetre  has 
been  dissolved.  Dose :  for  an  adult  one 
or  two  table-spoonfuls  every  four  hours  ; 
for  a  child,  one  or  two  teaspoonfuls  three 
times  a  day.  It  should  not  be  given  in 
such  doses  as  to  produce  vomiting.  The 
head,  neck,  and  chest,  should  be  washed 
in  cold  water  every  morning,  and  brisk 
exercise  taken  at  regular  hours. 

Wash  the  hands  in  cold  water  every 
three  hours,  and  lather  well  with  Wind- 
sor soap.  When  the  hands  are  nearly 
dried  with  the  towel,  pour  a  little  eau-de- 
Cologne,  or  milk  of  roses,  into  the  palm 
of  one  hand,  and  rub  it  over  the  whole  of 
both. 

A  leech  is  a  useful  remedy  to  unload 
the  overcharged  blood-vessels ;  or  the 
part  may  be  pricked  with  a  needle,  or 
punctured  with  a  lancet ;  in  such  cases  a 
soft  bread-and-water  poultice  should  be 
kept  on  during  the  night,  applied  warm, 
so  as  to  encourage  the  flow  of  blood. 


Household  Remedies  for  Chilblains. — 
The  following  are  among  the  most  ap- 
proved of  the  domestic  remedies,  or  pal- 
liatives : — 

Take  half  an  ounce  of  white  wax,  ox 
marrow  one  ounce,  hog's  lard  two  ounces ; 
melt  these  ingredients  slowly  over  a  fire 
in  a  pipkin,  and  mix  them  well  together ; 
then  strain  through  a  linen  cloth.  Before 
going  to  bed,  spread  the  ointment  upon 
the  parts  affected,  feet  or  hands,  taking 
care  to  wrap  them  well  up.  The  appli- 
cation should  be  made  as  soon  as  the 
first  attacks  are  felt. 

Lemon  juice  rubbed  on  the  inflamed 
parts  is  said  to  stop  the  itching.  A  sliced 
onion  dipped  in  salt  has  the  same  effect, 
but  makes  the  feet  tender. 

Strong  white  mustard,  pounded  and 
mixed  with  water  to  the  consistence  of 
thick  cream,  rubbed  on  every  night,  let- 
ting it  dry  on  the  chilblain,  and  washing 
it  off  in  the  morning  with  rain  water. 

Encourage  children  to  use  the  slapping 
rope  regularly  during  cold  weather.  This 
is  a  capital  prevention,  together  with  re- 
gularly washing  and  rubbing  the  feet. 

Aperient  for  Children. — Gingerbread 
made  with  oatmeal  instead  of  flour  is  a 
very  useful  aperient  for  children. 

Spring  Aperients;  for  children,  no- 
thing is  better  than  : — 1.  Brimstone  and 
molasses  ;  to  each  teacupful  of  this^  when 
mixed,  add  a  teaspoonful  of  cream  of 
tartar.  As  this  sometimes  produces 
sickness,  the  following  may  be  used : — 
2.  Take  of  tartrate  of  soda  one  drachm 
and  a  half,  powdered  jalap  and  powdered 
rhubarb  each  fifteen  grains,  ginger  two 
grains.  Mix.  Dose  for  a  child  above 
five  years,  one  small  teaspoonful ;  above 
ten  years,  a  large  teaspoonful ;  above  fif- 
teen, two ;  and  for  a  person  above  twenty? 
three  teaspoonfuls,  or  the  whole. 

Aperient  Pills. — To  some  adults  all 
liquid  medicines  produce  such  nausea 
that  pills  are  the  only  form  in  which 


564 


THE  PRACTICAL  HOUSEKEEPER. 


laxative  medicines  can  be  exhibited  ;  the 
following  is  a  usual  formula : — Take  of 
compound  rhubarb  pill,  a  drachm  and 
one  scruple;  of  powdered  ipecacuanha, 
six  grains,  and  of  extract  of  hyoscyamus 
one  scruple.  Mix  and  beat  into  a  mass, 
and  divide  into  twenty-four  pills.  Take 
one,  or  two,  or  if  of  a  very  costive  habit, 
three  at  bed-time. 

Infants'  Aperient. — Take  of  rhubarb 
five  grains,  magnesia  three  grains,  white 
sugar  a  scruple,  manna  five  grains ;  mix. 
Dose,  varying  from  a  piece  half  the  size 
of  a  sweet-pea  to  a  piece  the  size  of  an 
ordinary  pea. 

For  Wealc  Eyes, — Two  grains  acetate 
of  zinc,  in  two  ounces  of  rosewater ;  filter 
the  liquor  carefully,  and  wash  the  eyes 
night  and  morning. 

A  Simple  Vapor  Bath— It  is  not  ge- 
nerally known  that  the  settlers  in  the 
remote  parts  of  the  "West  make  use 
of  the  following  simple  mode  of  pro- 

.  curing  a  vapor  bath  :  The  patient  is  en- 
veloped in  blankets,  which  are  closely 
fastened  about  the  neck,  leaving  the  head 
exposed.  The  patient  sits  on  a  chair  5 
under  the  chair  is  placed  a  basin  or  deep 
dish,  withjiaif  a  pint  of  alcohol,  whiskey 
or  gin  which  is  ignited.  The  blankets 
lap  over  each  other,  enveloping  the 
wholef  and  are  closed  to  the  floor  by 
other  blankets,  &c.,  as  much  as  possible. 
In  a  very  few  minutes  the  patient  is  in 

"a  profuse  perspiration ;  he  is  then  imme- 
diately put  to  bed  between  warm 
blankets. 

*  Ear  Ache. — Sometimes  ear-ache  is  con- 
nected with  chronic  ulceration  in  the  in- 
ternal and  external  part  of  the  ear,  when 
injections  of  warm  water  and  soap  are 
advisable.  In  this  case  there  is  some- 
times a  constant  foetid  discharge,  for 
which  the  following  mixture  has  been 
recommended:— Take  of  ox-gall,  three 
drachms  j  balsam  of  Peru,  one  drachm. 


Mix.  A  drop  or  two  put  into  the  ear 
with  a  little  cotton. 

Pains  after  Exertion. — It  is  not  gen- 
erally known  to  pedestrians  that  the 
pains  in  the  knees  and  legs,  which  usually 
follow  after  a  long  excursion,  and  which 
continue  with  some  persons  for  two  or 
three  days  after,  may  be  prevented  or 
considerably  lessened,  by  bathing  the 
parts  affected  in  cold  spring  water,  im- 
mediately before  going  to  bed.  Care 
should  be  taken  if  the  feet  be  dipped 
in  the  water,  to  afterwards  dry  them 
thoroughly  with  a  rough  towel. 

For  a  Cough. — Quarter  of  a  pound  of 
linseed  ;  quarter  of  a  pound  of  raisins  ; 
two  ounces  of  stick  liquorice  ;  two  quarts 
of  soft  water,  to  be  boiled  until  reduced 
to  half  the  quantity.  When  strained, 
add  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  brown  candy, 
pounded  ;  one  table-spoonful  of  good  old 
rum,  one  table-spoonful  of  lemon  juice, 
or  vinegar.  A  cupful  to  be  taken  on 
going  to  bed,  and  more  frequently  if  re- 
quired. To  be  warmed. 

Nipple  Liniment,  by  Dr.  Sigerlundi. — 
Aqueous  extract  of  opium,  one  grain  ; 
Fresh  limewater,  three  drachms ;  oil 
sweet  almonds,  fresh  and  cold  pressed, 
three  drachms. 

Mix  the  whole,  and  preserve  in  a  cov- 
ered pot.  The  label  should  direct  the 
application  of  this  liniment  by  means  or 
very  fine  lint,  and  that  the  nipples  be 
covered  with  a  piece  of  skin  spread  with 
wax,  a  hole  being  left  open  in  the  centre 
to  permit  the  free  passage  of  the  milk. 

Pomade  (for  healing  slight  tumors.} — • 
White  pitch,  pure,  one  pound  ;  resin,  one 
pound ;  yellow  wax,  one  pound  ;  gum 
ammoniac,  twelve  ounces  ;  oil  of  hem- 
lock, four  ounces. 

Spread  upon  sheepskin,  and  apply  the 
plaster  to  the  sore. 

Pomade  Souveraine,  ly  Laforet  (for 
the  Cure  of  Corns.)-T&ke  one  ounce  black 


FAMILY   MEDICAL   GUIDE. 


565 


pitch,  half  an  ounce  galbanum,  and  one 
scruple  of  sal  ammoniac,  dissolved  in  vi- 
negar ;  add  one  and  a  half  drachm  dia- 
chylon. Take  only  sufficient  to  cover 
the  corn,  and  spread  it  upon  a  piece  of 
sheepskin.  After  some  days  remove  the 
plaster,  and  the  corn  comes  with  it. 

Cera  Fortif ant  (for  the  Nails.)— Oil  of 
lentise,  half  an  ounce ;  salt,  half  a  drachm; 
resin,  one  scruple  j  alum,  one  scruple  ; 
wax,  one  scruple. 

English  Court-Plaster. — Stretch  upon 
a  frame  a  piece  of  thin  black  silk,  and 
with  a  camel's-hair  brush  pass  over  it 
three  or  more  coats  of  isinglass,  dissolv- 
ed in  boiling  water.  To  give  the  silk  an 
agreeable  odor,  when  applying  the  last 
coat  mix  in  a  little  compound  tincture  of 
benzoin  with  the  isinglass. ' 

The  color  can  be  varied  by  taking  silk 
of  any  desired  shade.  The  intervals 
between  the  application  of  the  coats 
should  be  sufficiently  long  to  permit  a 
thorough  drying  of  each. 

Collodion. — This  is  a  liquid  adhesive 
plaster,  to  be  applied  with  the  brush 
upon  sores  and  cuts.  It  is  made  by  dis- 
solving gun-cotton  in  rectified  ether, 
mixed  with  one-eighth  its  bulk  of  strong 
alcohol.  A  slight  addition  of  Venice 
turpentine  increases  its  adhesiveness. 

Toothache  Collodion. — This  is  the  plain 
collodion,  holding  in  solution  one  grain  of 
sulphate  of  morphia  to  every  ounce  of 
liquid.  It  is  almost  a  specific  for  the 
toothache,  which  results  from  an  exposed 
nerve. 

Blistering  Collodion. — The  etherial  ex- 
tract of  cantharides,  dissolved  in  collo- 
dion, forms  a  most  convenient,  active,  and 
clearly  blistering  liquid.  If  the  blister 
is  opened  at  the  side,  the  film  of  collo- 
dion remains  unbroken  ;  and,  by  thus 
protecting  the  sore,  obviates  the  neces- 
sity of  dressing  it  with  ointment. 

For  Burns. — Apply  cotton  wool  dip- 
ped in  oil  as  soon  as  possible,  and  keep 
36 


it  on  till  the  fire  is  entirely  out,  which 
will  usually  take  from  two  days  to  a 
week. 

For  a  Cut.— Wash  off  the  blood  in 
cold  water,  and  bind  it  up  with  a  clean 
cotton  bandage  ;  if  it  inclines  to  bleed, 
put  on  scraped  lint,  after  bringing  the 
edges  of  the  wound  together  as  closely 
as  possible,  and  bind  it  rather  tight.  Or 
use  sticking-plaster. 

When  a  Nail  or  Pin  has  been  run  into 
the  foot,  instantly  bind  on  a  rind  of  salt 
pork ;  if  the  foot  swell,  bathe  it  in  a 
strong  decoction  of  wormwood,  then  bind 
on  another  rind  of  pork,  and  keep  quiet 
till  the  wound  is  well.  The  lockjaw  is 
often  caused  by  such  wounds,  if  neglected. 

For  a  Bruise  or  Sprain. — Bathe  the 
part  in  cold  water,  till  you  can  get  ready 
a  decoction  of  wormwood.  This  is  one  of 
the  best  remedies  for  sprains  and  bruises. 
When  the  wormwood  is  fresh  gathered, 
pound  the  leaves  and  wet  them  either 
with  water  or  vinegar,  and  bind  them  on 
the  bruise  ;  when  the  herb  is  dry,  put  it 
into  cold  water,  and  let  it  boil  a  short 
time,  then  bathe  the  bruise  and  bind  on 
the  herb. 

Always  keep  cotton  wool,  scraped  lint 
and  wormwood  on  hand. 

The  Ear-ache  is  usually  caused  by  a 
sudden  cold.  Steam  the  head  over  hot 
herbs,  bathe  the  feet,  and  put  into  the  ear 
cotton  wool  wet  with  sweet  oil  and  par- 
egoric. 

Prescription  for  Camphor  CaTce. — 
Scrape  into  an  earthen  vessel  one  ounce 
and  a  quarter  of  spermaceti  and  one 
ounce  and  a  half  of  white  wax  ;  add  six 
drachms  of  powdered  camphor,  and  four 
table -spoonfuls  of  best  olive  oil.  Let  it 
stand  near  the  fire  until  dissolved,  stir- 
ring it  well. 

Plaster  for  Pain  in  Side  or  Cough  to 
he  applied  between  the  shoulders. — One 
ounce  burgundy  pitch,  one  ounce  bees- 
j  one  ounce  and  a  half  of  resin,  one 


566 


THE  PRACTICAL  HOUSEKEEPER. 


ounce  of  gum  camphor  dissolved  in  two 
teaspoonfuls  of  brandy  over  a  slow  fire. 
To  be  kept  in  tin  boxes,  and  when  used 
spread  on  kid. 

The  Cure  of  Intemperate  Habits.  —  A 
notion  prevails  that  a  person  addicted 
to  alcohol  stimulants  cannot  at  once  leave 
them  off  without  danger  of  illness,  or 
great  and^long-continued  suffering.  This 
is  an  error.  A  cup  of  tea  or  coffee  will 
supply  the  needed  tonic  when  a  sense  of 
exhaustion  is  felt,  and  we  have  the  au- 
thority of  an  emiment  physician  for  stat- 
ing that  no  constitutional  injury  will  be 
suffered  from  immediate  and  total  absti- 
nence. The  uncomfortable  feelings  will 
subside  in  forty  eight-hours,  and  will  be 
entirely  over  in  a  fortnight.  Any  man 
who  has  firm  resolution  can  break  him- 
self at  once  of  the  fatal  habit  of  drinking. 

Hair  Dressing.  —  There  are  many  per- 
sons whose  hair  is  naturally  dry  and 
crisp,  and  in  most  families  there  is  a 
want  of  some  innocent  and  agreeable 
wash  or  dressing  which  may  be  used 
moderately  and  judiciously.  The  mix- 
ture which  may  be  regarded  as  the  most 
agreeable,  cleanly,  and  safe  is  composed 
of  cologne  spirit  and  pure  castor-oil. 
The  following  is  a  good  formula  :  — 

Pure,  fresh  castor-oil,  two  ounces.  Co- 
logne spirit  (ninety-five  per  cent),  six- 
teen ounces. 

The  oil  is  freely  dissolved  in  the  spirit, 
and  the  solution  is  clear  and  beautiful. 
It  may  be  perfumed  in  any  way  to  suit 
the  fancy  of  the  purchaser.  The  oil  of 
the  castor-bean  has  for  many  years  been 
employed  to  dress  the  hair,  both  among 
the  savage  and  civilized  nations  ;  and 
it  possesses  properties  which  admirably 
adapt  it  to  this  use.  It  does  not  rapidly 
dry ;  and  no  gummy,  offensive  residuum 
remains  after  taking  on  the  chemical 


changes  which  occur  in  all  oils  upon  ex- 
posure to  light  and  air.  It  is  best  dif- 
fused by  the  agency  of  strong  spirit,  in 
which  it  dissolves.  The  alcohol  or  spirit 
rapidly  evaporates,  and  does  not  in  the 
slightest  degree  injure  the  texture  of 
the  hair.  This  preparation,  for  dressing 
the  hair  of  children  or  ladies,  will  meet 
nearly  or  quite  all  requirements.  A 
cheap  and  very  good  dressing  is  made 
by  dissolving  four  ounces  of  perfectly 
pure,  dense  glycerine  in  twelve  ounces 
of  rose-water.  Glycerine  evaporates  on- 
ly at  high  temperatures  ;  and  therefore, 
under  its  influence,  the  hair  is  retained 
in  a  moist  condition  for  a  long  time.  As 
a  class,  the  vegetable  oils  are  better  for 
the  hair  than  animal  oils.  They  do  not 
become  rancid  and  offensive  so  readily, 
and  they  are  subject  to  different  and  less 
objectionable  chemical  changes.  Olive- 
oil  and  that  derived  from  the  cocoanut 
have  been  largely  employed,  but  they 
are  inferior  in  every  respect  to  that  from 
the  castor-bean. 

It  is  doubtful  if  any  mixture  or  sub- 
stance has  ever  been  devised  which  will 
restore  hair  to  a  bald  head.  A  great 
many  washes  and  embrocations  are  man- 
ufactured, all  of  which  usually  fail  to 
meet  the  end  desired.  The  falling  of 
the  hair  is  the  result  of  diseased  action 
in  the  hair  follicles,  or  to  a  morbid  con- 
dition of  the  entire  scalp.  Still,  mix- 
tures containing  ammonia,  vinegar,  soap, 
and  vesicating  tinctures,  are  sometimes 
thought  to  prove  beneficial.  The  fall  of 
the  hair  will  usually  cease  from  natural 
causes  in  a  short  time,  the  germinal  ves- 
sels taking  on  healthy  action  spontane- 
ously. The  frequent  washing  of  the  head 
in  tepid  or  cold  water,  and  friction  with 
a  brush  or  coarse  towel,  is  to  be  com- 
mended. 


MISCELLANEOUS    RECEIPTS 


To  take  Stains  out  of  Linen. — For  acid 
stains,  wet  the  part,  and  lay  on  it  salt 
of  wormwood  ;  then  rub  it,  and  hold  the 
part  over  a  lighted  match,  for  the  sul- 
phurous gas ;  or,  tie  up  pearlash  in  the 
stained  part ;  scrape  soap  into  cold  water, 
for  a  lather,  and  boil  the  linen  till  the 
stain  disappear. 

Stains  of  wine  or  fruit  that  have  been 
long  in  the  linen  may  be  removed  by 
rubbing  the  part  on  each  side  with  yellow 
soap,  then  laying  on  a  mixture  of  thick 
starch  in  cold  water,  rubbing  it  well  in, 
and  exposing  the  linen  to  the  sun  and 
air  till  the  stain  comes  out.  The  process 
may  be  renewed,  and,  when  dry,  sprinkle 
the  part  with  water.  Stains  may  be 
taken  out  by  dipping  the  linen  in  sour 
buttermilk  and  drying  in  a  hot  sun. 
Then  wash  in  cold  water  and  dry  it 
several  times  a  day. 

A  certain  way  of  extracting  fruit  or 
wine  stains  from  table  linen  is  to  tie  up 
some  cream  of  tartar  in  the  stained  part 
(so  as  to  form  a  sort  of  bag),  and  then  to 
put  the  linen  into  a  lather  of  soap  and 
cold  water,  and  boil  it  awhile.  Then 
transfer  it  wet  to  lukewarm  suds,  wash 
and  rinse  it  well,  and  dry  and  iron  it. 
The  stains  will  disappear  during  the  pro- 
cess. Another  way  is  to  mix,  in  equal 
quantities,  soft  soap,  slaked  lime,  and 
pearl-ash.  Rub  the  stain  with  this  pre- 
paration, and  expose  the  linen  to  the  sun 
with  the  mixture  plastered  on  it.  If 


necessary,  repeat  the  application.  As 
soon  as  the  stain  has  disappeared,  wash 
out  the  linen  immediately,  as  it  will  be 
injured  if  the  mixture  is  left  in  it. 

Iron  moulds  may  be  wet,  laid  on  a  hot 
water  plate,  and  a  little  salt  of  lemon 
applied.  "Wet  and  renew  the  process. 
Be  careful  not  to  have  the  application 
too  strong.  Oxalic  acid  will  effectually 
remove  the  stains.  Mildew  may  be  taken 
out  by  mixing  soft  soap  with  powdered 
starch,  half  as  much  salt,  and  the  juice 
of  a  lemon ;  lay  it  on  both  sides  of  the 
part,  and  leave  it  on  the  grass  day  and 
night.  To  prevent  flannels  from  shrink- 
ing or  losing  their  color,  put  them  into  a 
pail  the  first  time  of  washing,  and  pour 
boiling  water  on  them,  letting  them  lie 
till  cold. 

Remove  ink  spots  by  soaking  the  part 
in  milk  immediately  j  then  wash  out  in 
cold  water  without  soap. 

To  destroy  Cricftets.—Put  Scotch  snuff 
upon  their  holes.  Cockroaches  may  be 
banished  by  red  wafers.  Paint  is  destruc- 
tive to  all  insects,  and  so  is  lime. 

Polish  for  Tables. — One  pint  of  linseed 
oil,  half  a  pint  of  turpentine,  two  ounces 
of  beeswax,  sixpence  worth  of  white 
rosin.  Boil  the  mixture  in  a  saucepan, 
and  put  it  in  a  bottle  for  use. 

Varnish  for  Mahogany. — One  pint  of 
linseed  oil,  a  wine  glass  of  spirits  of  tur- 
pentine ;  simmer  it  slowly  till  near  coming 


568 


THE   PEACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


to  a  boil.  Take  all  the  stains  out  of  the 
mahogany,  and  clean  it  perfectly.  When 
dry  brush  it  with  a  feather  dipped  in  the 
bottled  mixture.  Rub  it  some  time  with 
soft  linen ;  then  take  a  clean  housecloth 
and  rub  off  the  oil,  continue  rubbing  till 
the  table  would  not  soil  a  cambric  hand- 
kerchief. 

Instead  of  covering  your  glasses  and 
pictures  with  muslin,  cover  the  frames 
only  with  cheap  yellow  cambric,  neatly 
put  on,  and  as  near  the  color  of  the  gilt 
as  possible.  This  leaves  the  glasses 
open,  and  is  a  barrier  to  dust  and  flies. 
When  faded,  it  can  be  re-colored  with 
saffron  tea. 

When  mattresses  become  hard  and 
bunchy,  rip  them,  take  out  the  hair,  pull 
it  thoroughly,  let  it  lie  a  day  or  two  to 
air,  wash  the  tick,  lay  in  the  hair  as 
light  and  even  as  possible,  and  stitch  it 
down  as  before.  The  mattress  will  be 
as  good  as  new. 

Britannia  ware  should  be  first  rubbed 
gently  with  a  woollen  cloth  and  sweet  oil, 
then  washed  in  warm  suds  and  rubbed 
with  soft  leather  and  whiting.  Thus 
treated,  it  will  retain  its  beauty  to  the 
last. 

To  clean  Sponges. — When  very  foul 
wash  them  in  diluted  tartaric  acid,  rinsing 
them  afterwards  in  water ;  it  will  make 
them  very  soft  and  white.  Be  careful  to 
dilute  the  acid  well,  as  it  is  very  corrosive 
and  therefore  should  be  weak. 

For  outside  Paint. — Put  ten  gallons 
of  raw  linseed  oil  in  a  kettle  over  a  slow 
fire,  and  let  it  simmer  gently.  Add  four 
ounces  sugar  of  lead.  Stir  up,  and  when 
cold,  it  is  fit  to  use  as  boiled  oil  or  var- 
nish. 

Take  of  yellow  ochre  fifteen  pounds, 
of  white  lead  ten  pounds,  of  burnt  umber 
one  pound,  of  Indian  red  two  pounds. 
This  will  make  a  beautiful  chocolate 
color.  Add  to  it  half  a  pound  of  dry 
ground  litharge. 


Stir  it  up  well,  and  when  well  stirred 
add  oil  according  to  judgment — about 
two  gallons. 

Green  tea  is  good  to  restore  rusty 
silk.  It  should  be  boiled  in  iron — a  cup- 
ful to  three  quarts.  The  silk  should  not 
be  wrung,  but  ironed  damp. 

Lime  sifted  through  coarse  muslin,  and 
stirred  pretty  thick  with  white  of  egg, 
makes  a  strong  cement  for  glass  or  china. 
Plaster  of  Paris,  pulverized,  is  still  bet- 
ter, and  should  be  stirred  by  the  spoonful 
as  it  is  wanted. 

The  best  way  to  clean  gold  is  to  wash 
it  in  warm  suds  made  of  delicate  soap, 
with  ten  or  fifteen  drops  sal  volatile  in 
it.  This  makes  jewelry  very  brilliant. 

Rye  paste  is  more  adhesive  than  anj 
other,  and  is  much  improved  by  adding 
a  little  pounded  alum  while  it  is  boiling. 

Straw  matting  should  be  washed  in 
salt  and  water,  and  dried  with  a  coarse 
towel.  The  salt  prevents  their  turning 
yellow. 

Skimmed  milk  and  water,  with  a  bit 
of  glue  in  it,  heated  scalding  hot,  is  ex- 
cellent to  restore  old,  rusty,  black  Italian 
crape.  If  clapped  and  pulled  dry,  it  will 
look  as  well  as  new. 

Washleather  gloves  should  be  washed 
in  clean  tepid  suds. 

If  you  are  troubled  to  get  soft  water 
for  washing,  fill  a  tub  or  barrel  half 
full  of  wood  ashes,  and  fill  it  with  water 
to  make  lye.  A  gallon  of  strong  lye  put 
into  a  great  kettle  of  hard  water  will 
make  it  soft  as  rain  water.  Pearlash 
or  potash  is  used,  but  costs  something, 
and  is  apt  to  injure  the  texture  of  the 
cloth. 

In  May  and  June,  the  little  millers 
that  lay  moth  eggs,  begin  to  appear. 
Brush  your  woollens  and  beat  out  your 
furs,  and  pack  them  away  in  a  dark 
place  covered  with  linen,  pepper,  red 
cedar  chips,  tobacco,  and  best  of  all 


MISCELLANEOUS   RECEIPTS. 


569 


camphor,  or  any  strong  spicy  smell,  will 
keep  moths  out  of  your  chests  and 
drawers.  Sew  the  things  tightly  up  in 
linen,  leaving  no  room  for  the  insect  to 
enter. 

Save  phials  and  bottles  ;  apothecaries 
and  grocers  will  give  something  for 
them. 

Woollens  should  be  washed  in  very  hot 
suds,  and  not  rinsed;  lukewarm  water 
shrinks  them.  Silk  should  be  washed  in 
water  almost  cold;  hot  water  turns  it 
yellow.  It  may  be  washed  in  suds  made 
of  white  soap  ;  but  no  soap  should  be  put 
on  it.  It  will  not  do  to  smooth  all  silk 
with  a  hot  iron ;  either  rub  it  dry  with  a 
soft  cloth,  or  put  it  between  towels,  and 
press  it  with  weights. 

To  take  spots  out  of  Cloth.— Sal  am- 
moniac, one  ounce  ;  rectified  spirit,  two 
wine-glasses  full ;  aqua  distillata.  one  and 
a  half  pints.  Apply  with  a  sponge. 

.  fiecipe  for  Ink, — Half  a  pint  of  good 
stale  beer,  two  ounces  of  galls,  half  an 
ounce  of  copperas,  half  an  ounce  of  gum 
arabic  pulverized,  a  quarter  of  an  ounce 
of  rock  alum.  This  is  to  be  kept  in  a 
pitcher  close  to  the  fire  for  a  week,  fre- 
quently stirred  with  a  stick,  and  slightly 
covered  with  a  large  cork.  The  ink  will 
never  mould  nor  lose  its  color  or  sub- 
stance. It  will  bear  half  as  much  beer 
for  future  use. 
with  beer. 

To  take  an  impression  from  a  Writing. 
— Add  a  little  sugar  to  the  ink  you  write 
with,  then  lay  a  sheet  of  thin  unsized 
paper,  damped  with  a  sponge,  upon  the 
writing,  and  pass  over  it,  very  lightly, 
a  flat  smoothing-iron,  moderately  heated. 

To  sweeten  Casks. — When  musty  it  is 
best  to  unhead  large  casks,  and  white- 
wash them  with  quicklime.  Or  they 
may  be  matched  with  sulphur  mixed  with 
a  little  nitrate  of  potash,  and  afterwards 
frelL  washed.  Small  casks  may  be 


If  it  thickens,  thin  it 


sweetened  by  washing  them  first  with 
sulphuric  acid,  and  then  with  clean 
water. 

To  preserve  Brass  Ornaments. — Beat 
sal  ammoniac  into  a  fine  powder,  then 
moisten  it  with  soft  water,  rubbing  it  on 
the  ornaments,  which  must  be  heated  over 
charcoal,  and  rubbed  dry  with  bran  and 
whiting. 

To  color  Harness. — The  color  of  har- 
ness that  has  become  rusty  or  brown  by 
wear  may  be  restored  to  a  fine  black, 
after  the  dirt  has  been  sponged  off.  Boil 
logwood  chips  in  three  quarts  of  soft 
water,  to  which  add  three  ounces  of  nut- 
galls  finely  powdered,  and  one  ounce  of 
alum ;  simmer  the  whole  together  for 
half  an  hour,  and  it  will  be  fit  for  use. 
A  harness  blacking  is  thus  made :  Melt 
two  ounces  of  mutton  suet  with  six 
ounces  of  beeswax,  then  add  one  ounce  of 
indigo,  finely  powdered,  six  ounces  of 
sugar-candy,  dissolved  in  water,  and  two 
ounces  of  soft  soap ;  mix,  and  simmer 
over  the  fire,  when  add  a  gill  of  turpen- 
tine. Lay  it  on  with  a  sponge,  and  then 
polish. 

To  preserve  Polished  Irons  from  Rust. 
— Polished  iron-work  may  be  preserved 
from  rust  by  a  mixture  of  copal  varnish 
with  as  much  olive  oil  as  will  give  it  a 
degree  of  greasiness,  adding  as  much  spirit 
of  turpentine  as  of  varnish.  The  cast-iron 
work  is  best  preserved  by  rubbing  it 
with  black-lead.  But  where  rust  has  be- 
gun to  make  its  appearance  on  grates  or 
fire-irons,  apply  tripoli  with  half  its  quan- 
tity of  sulphur,  intimately  mingled  on  a 
marble  slab,  and  laid  on  with  a  piece  of 
soft  leather :  or  emery  and  oil  may  be  ap- 
plied with  excellent  effect. 

To  clean  Kid  Gloves. — First  see  that 
your  hands  are  clean,  then  put  on  the 
gloves  and  wash  them,  as  though  you 
were  washing  your  hands,  in  a  basin  of 
spirits  of  turpentine,  until  quite  clean ; 


5TO 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


then  hang  them  up  in  a  warm  place,  or 
where  there  is  a  good  current  of  air, 
which  will  cany  off  all  the  smell  of  the 
turpentine.  This  method  was  brought 
from  Paris,  and  thousands  of  pounds 
have  been  made  by  it. 

To  clean  German  Silver. — After  using, 
it  should  be  placed  immediately  in  hot 
water,  washed  well,  and  wiped  dry  with 
a  soft  cloth.  Once  a  week  let  it  be  wash- 
ed in  soap-suds,  and  then  cleaned  with 
fine  whiting,  or  prepared  chalk,  mixed 
with  whiskey  or  spirits  of  wine,  so  as  to 
make  a  paste,  which  should  afterwards  be 
brushed  off.  Should  this  metal  become 
discolored,  or  spotted  by  vinegar  or  other 
acids,  wash  it  first,  and  then  clean  it 
with  sweet  oil  and  powdered  rotten- 
stone. 

Blacking. — The  best  blacking  for  pre- 
serving the  leather  of  boots  and  shoes, 
and  which  will  make  it  perfectly  water- 
tight, is  the  following : — Take  of  yellow 
wax  one  ounce  and  a  half,  of  mutton  suet 
four  ounces  and  a  half,  horse  turpentine 
half  an  ounce,  ivory  black  three  ounces  ; 
melt  first  the  wax,  to  which  add  the 
suet,  and  afterwards  the  horse  turpen- 
tine ;  when  the  whole  is  melted  remove  it 
from  the  fire ;  mix  in  gradually  the  ivory 
black,  constantly  stirring  till  it  is  cold. 
This  composition  is  sometimes  run  into 
moulds,  and  sold  under  the  name  of 
blacking  balls  ;  when  it  is  used  it  may  be 
laid  or  rubbed  upon  a  brush  which  should 
be  warmed  before  the  fire ;  it  is  also  the 
best  blacking  for  every  kind  of  harness ; 
when  it  is  wanted  in  a  large  quantity,  it 
may  be  gently  melted  in  a  ladle  or  pot 
over  a  chafing-dish  with  live  coals. 

To  preserve  Picture  Frames. — Varnish 
the  frames  with  water  in  which  onions 
have  been  boiled. 

To  clean  a  Carpet. — Beat  the  carpet 
free  from  dust,  and  lay  it  down.  To  two 
gallons  of  water  put  two  ox-galls.  Rub 
it  on  the  carpet  with  a  hand  scrubbing- 
brush. 


To  clean  Silk. — Pare  and  slice  thin 
three  washed  potatoes.  Pour  on  them 
half  a  pint  of  boiling  water,  and  let  it 
stand  till  cold.  Strain  the  water,  and 
add  an  equal  quantity  of  alcohol.  Sponge 
the  silk  on  the  right  side,  and  when  half 
dry,  iron  it  on  the  wrong  side.  The 
lightest  colored  silk  may  be  cleaned  and 
brightened  by  this  process  ;  also  cloth, 
velvet,  or  crape.  To  iron  velvet — lay  a 
damp  towel  over  the  bottom  of  a  hot 
smoothing  iron  ;  put  on  it  the  wrong  side 
of  the  velvet,  and  pass  a  whisk  brush 
over  the  pile  till  the  surface  is  free  from 
wrinkles. 

To  renew  scorched  or  browned  Linen. — 
This  is  an  accident  attributable  entirely 
to  the  ignorance  of  the  laundress,  in  not 
knowing  how  to  regulate  the  heat  of  her 
irons.  To  remedy  this: — Add  to  a 
quart  of  vinegar  the  juice  of  half  a  dozen 
large  onions,  about  an  ounce  of  soap  rasp- 
ed down,  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  fullers' 
earth,  one  ounce  of  lime,  and  one  ounce 
of  pearlash,  or  any  other  strong  alkali. 
Boil  the  whole  until  it  is  pretty  thick, 
and  lay  some  of  it  on  the  scorched  part, 
suffering  it  to  dry.  Repeat  this  process 
for  one  or  two  washings. 

To  extract  grease  spots  from  Silks,  Mus~ 
lins,  &c. — Scrape  French  chalk,  put  it  on 
the  grease  spot,  and  hold  it  near  the  fire, 
or  over  a  warm  iron  or  water-plate,  filled 
with  boiling  water.  The  grease  will  melt, 
and  the  French  chalk  absorb  it  ,•  brush  or 
rub  it  off;  repeat  if  necessary.  Camphene 
will  remove  grease  also. 

To  clean  Marble. — Take  two  parts  of 
common  soda,  one  part  of  pumice-stone, 
and  one  part  of  finely  powdered  chalk  ; 
sift  it  through  a  fine  sieve,  and  mix  it 
with  water ;  then  rub  it  well  all  over  the 
marble,  and  the  stains  will  be  removed ; 
then  wash  the  marble  over  with  soap  and 
water,  and  it  will  be  as  clean  as  it  was  at 
first. 

To  take  oil  and  grease  out  of  Boards, 
Marble,  &c. — Make  a  paste  with  fullers' 


MISCELLANEOUS   EECEIPTS. 


571 


earth  and  hot  water ;  cover  the  spots 
therewith,  let  it  dry  on,  and  the  next  day 
scour  it  off  with  soft  or  yellow  soap. 

Or : — Make  a  paste  with  soft  soap, 
fullers'  earth,  and  a  little  pearlash,  and 
use  it  as  above. 

To  clean  Buckskin  Gloves. — First  wash 
in  warm  water  and  soap,  until  the  dirt  is 
removed  ;  then  pull  them  out  into  their 
proper  shape,  or  stretch  them  on  wooden 
hands.  Mix  a  little  pipe-clay,  or  pipe- 
clay and  yellow  ochre,  according  to  the 
color  required,  with  vinegar  or  beer. 
Rub  this  over  the  outside  of  the  gloves, 
and  let  them  dry  gradually  in  the  shade ; 
or  if  in  the  house,  not  too  near  the  fire. 
When  about  half  dry,  rub  them  well,  and 
stretch  them  on  the  hand  or  wooden 
mould  ;  after  they  are  rubbed  and  dried, 
brush  them  with  a  soft  brush  to  get  out 
the  dust.  Finally,  iron  the  gloves  with 
a  smoothing  iron  moderately  heated, 
taking  the  precaution  to  place  a  cloth  or 
piece  of  paper  over  them,  and  they  will 
look  like  new. 

To  make  an  efficacious  and  durable 
Paste. — Good  and  durable  paste  may  be 
made  with  flour  in  the  usual  way,  but 
rather  thick,  with  a  proportion  of  brown 
sugar  and  a  small  quantity  of  corrosive 
sublimate.  A  drop  or  two  of  the  essen- 
tial oil  of  lavender,  peppermint,  anise,  or 
bergamot,  is  a  complete  security  against 
moulding.  Paste  made  in  this  manner, 
if  kept  in  a  close  covered  pot,  may  be  pre- 
served in  a  state  fit  for  use  at  all  times. 

To  make  Blue  Ink. — Dissolve  a  small 
quantity  of  indigo  in  a  little  oil  of  vitriol, 
and  add  a  sufficient  quantity  of  water,  in 
which  is  dissolved  some  gum  arabic. 

To  remove  Ink-stains  from  Printed 
Books,  &c. — Procure  a  little  oxalic  acid, 
which  dissolve  in  a  small  quantity  of 
warm  water,  then  slightly  wet  the  stain 
with  it,  when  it  will  disappear,  leaving 
the  text  uninjured. 

To  paint  Silver  Flowers  on  Silk. — 


Paint  flowers,  leaves,  &c.,  on  white  silk, 
with  a  camel's -hair  pencil  dipped  in  a  so- 
lution of  nitrate  of  silver  :  immerse  this 
while  wet  in  a  jar  of  sulphuric  acid  gas, 
by  burning  sulphur  in  a  jar  of  atmos- 
pheric air.  The  drawing  will  have  a  beau- 
tiful silvery  appearance. 

To  remove  Ink  or  Fruit  Stains  from 
the  Fingers. — Cream  of  tartar,  half  an 
ounce  ;  powdered  salt  of  sorrel,  half  an 
ounce — mix.  This  is  what  is  sold  for 
salt  of  lemons. 

To  clean  Tin  Covers. — Boil  some 
rottenstone  and  a  small  quantity  of  pre- 
pared whiting  in  some  sweet  oil  for  two 
hours,  till  it  acquires  the  consistency  of 
cream. 

To  perfume  Linen. — Rose-leaves  dried 
in  the  shade,  or  at  about  four  feet  from  a 
stove,  one  pound ;  cloves,  caraway-seeds, 
and  allspice,  of  each  one  ounce  j  pound  in 
a  mortar,  or  grind  in  a  mill ;  dried  salt, 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  ;  mix  all  these  to- 
gether, and  put  the  compound  into  little 


To  prevent  Colored  Things  from 
Running. — Boil  a  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
soap  till  nearly  dissolved,  then  add  a 
small  piece  of  alum  and  boil  with  it. 
Wash  the  things  in  this  lather,  but  do 
not  soap  them.  If  they  require  a  second 
water,  put  alum  to  that  also  as  well  as  to 
the  rinsing  and  blue  water.  This  will 
preserve  them. 

To  preserve  Pencil  Marks. — If  you 
have  anything  drawn  or  written  with 
a  lead  pencil  that  you  wish  to  pre- 
serve from  rubbing  out,  dip  the  paper 
into  a  dish  of  skimmed  milk.  Then  dry 
it,  and  iron  it  quickly  on  the  wrong  side. 

To  dry  Plants  for  Preservation. — The 
following  improved  method  of  drying 
plants  is  the  result  of  much  experience  : 
— The  plants  you  wish  to  preserve  should 
be  gathered  when  the  weather  is  dry, 
and  after  placing  the  ends  in  water,  let 
them  remain  in  a  cool  place  till  the  next 


572 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


day.  When  about  to  be  submitted  t< 
the  process  of  drying,  place  each  plan 
between  several  sheets  of  blotting-paper 
and  iron  it  with  a  large  smooth  heate: 
pretty  strongly  warmed,  till  all  the  moist 
ure  is  dissipated.  Colors  may  thus  be 
fixed,  which  otherwise  become  pale,  or 
nearly  white. 

To  wash  WJiite  Silk  Lace  or  Blonde. — 
Take  a  black  bottle  covered  with  clean 
linen  or  muslin,  and  wind  the  blonde 
round  it,  (securing  the  ends  with  a 
needle  or  thread,)  not  leaving  the  edge 
outward,  but  covering  it  as  you  proceed. 
Set  the  bottle  upright  in  a  strong  cold 
lather  of  white  soap  and  soft  water,  and 
place  it  in  the  sun,  having  gently  rubbed 
the  suds  up  and  down  on  the  lace.  Keep 
it  in  the  sun  every  day  for  a  week, 
changing  the  lather  daily,  and  alwaj^s 
rubbing  it  slightly  when  you  renew  the 
suds.  At  the  end  of  the  week,  take  the 
blonde  off  the  bottle,  and  (without  rins- 
ing) pin  it  backward  and  forward  on  a 
large  pillow.  The  pins  should  be  of  the 
smallest  size.  When  quite  dry,  take  it 
off,  but  do  not  starch,  iron,  or  press  it. 
Lay  it  in  long  loose  folds,  and  put  it  away 
in  a  pasteboard  box.  Thread  lace  may 
be  washed  in  the  same  manner. 

To  clean  Silver. — Dissolve  two  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  powdered  alum  in  a  quart  of 
moderately  strong  lye,  stir  in  a  gill  of  soft 
soap,  and  remove  the  scum  or  dross  that 
may  rise  to  the  surface.  After  washing 
the  silver  in  hot  water,  take  a  sponge  and 
cover  every  article  with  this  mixture. 
Let  the  things  rest  about  a  quarter  of  an 
hour,  frequently  turning  them.  Next 
wash  them  off  in  warm  soap-suds,  and 
wipe  them  dry  with  a  soft  cloth.  After- 
wards brighten  them  with  rouge  pow- 
der, or  with  whiting  and  spirits  of  wine. 

Preserving  the  Color  of  Dresses. — 
The  colors  of  merinos,  mousseline-de- 
laines,  ginghams,  chintzes,  printed  lawns, 
&c.,  may  be  preserved  by  using  water 


that  is  only  milk- warm  ;  making  a  lather 
with  white  soap,  Before  you  put  in  the 
dress,  instead  of  rubbing  it  on  the  ma- 
terial ;  and  stirring  into  a  first  and  sec- 
ond tub  of  water  a  large  tablespoonful 
of  ox-gall,  No  colored  articles  should 
be  allowed  to  remain  long  in  the  water. 
They  must  be  washed  fast,  and  then 
rinsed  through  cold  waters.  Into  each 
rinsing  water  stir  a  teaspoonful  of  vine- 
gar, which  will  help  to  brighten  the  col- 
ors ;  and  after  rinsing,  hang  them  out 
immediately.  If  they  cannot  be  conve- 
niently ironed  at  once,  let  them  hang  till 
they  are  quite  dry  ;  and  then  damp  and 
fold  them  on  the  following  day,  a  quar- 
ter of  an  hour  before  ironing.  We  need 
scarcely  say  that  no  colored  articles 
should  ever  be  boiled  or  scalded. 

To  wash  Ribbons,  Silk  HandlcercJiiefs, 
&c. — A  good  satin  ribbon  may  be  made 
to  look  very  well  by  washing  it  first  in 
cold  water,  to  which  add  a  few  drops  of 
spirits  of  wine  ;  then  in  a  lather  of  white 
soap,  and  lukewarm  water;  afterwards 
rinse  it  in  cold  water,  pull  it  even,  and 
dry  it  gradually.  When  dry,  stretch  out 
the  ribbon,  and  sponge  it  with  a  weak  so- 
lution of  isinglass  or  rice-water,  to  restore 
the  stiffness  and  gloss.  To  iron  the  rib- 
bon, lay  it  within  a  sheet  of  clean  smooth 
etter  paper  (the  paper  being  both  under 
and  over  it),  and  press  it  with  a  heated 
ron  moved  quickly.  If  the  color  is 
ilac,  add  a  little  dissolved  pearlash  to 
<he  rinsing  water.  If  green,  a  little  vine- 
gar. If  pink,  or  blue,  a  few  drops  of  oil 
>f  vitriol.  If  yellow,  a  little  tincture  of 
affron.  Other  colors  may  be  set  by  stir- 
ring a  teaspoonful  of  ox-gall  into  the 
irst  water.  If  white,  a  saltspoonful  of 
ream  of  tartar  mixed  with  the  soap- 
uds.  Unfigured  silk  handkerchiefs  and 
ca,rfs  may  be  washed  and  ironed  in  the 
above  manner.  The  proportion  of  spirits 
>f  wine  is  about  a  tablespoonful  to  a 
gallon  of  water. 
To  clean  White  or  Colored  Kid  Gloves. 


MISCELLANEOUS    RECEIPTS. 


573 


— Put  the  glove  on  your  hand,  then  take 
a  small  piece  of  flannel,  dip  it  in  cam- 
phene,  and  well  but  gently  rub  it  over  the 
glove,  taking  care  not  to  make  it  too  wet. 
When  the  dirt  is  removed,  dip  the  flannel 
(or  another  piece  if  that  is  become  dirty) 
into  pipe-clay  and  rub  it  over  the  glove ; 
take  it  off,  and  hang  it  up  in  a  room  to  dry, 
and  in  a  day  or  two  very  little  smelj  will 
remain ;  and  if  done  carefully  they  will  be 
almost  as  good  as  new.  In  colored  ones, 
if  yellow,  use  gamboge  after  the  pipe- 
clay, and  for  other  colors  match  it  in  dry 
paint. 

Sympathetic  Inks. — These  are  prepara- 
tions used  for  writing  on  paper,  the  marks 
of  which  are  invisible  until  acted  upon  by 
some  agent.  They  are  frequently  em- 
ployed in  secret  or  playful  correspond- 
ence. By  heating  the  paper  until  it  is 
nearly  scorched,  they  may  be  rendered 
visible. 

Sulphate  of  copper  and  sal  ammoniac 
equal  parts,  dissolved  in  water  or  onion 
juice,  writes  colorless,  but  turns  yellow 
when  heated. 

A  weak  infusion  of  galls  turns  black 
when  moistened  with  weak  copperas  wa- 
ter. 

The  diluted  solutions  of  nitrate  of  sil- 
ver and  terchloride  of  gold  darken  when 
exposed  to  the  sunlight. 

Aquafortis,  spirits  of  salts,  oil  of  vitriol, 
common  salt,  or  salpetre,  dissolved  in  a 
large  quantity  of  water,  turn  yellow  or 
brown  when  heated. 

Solution  of  nitromuriate  of  cobalt  turns 
green  when  heated,  and  disappears  again 
on  cooling. 

Solution  of  acetate  of  cobalt,  to  which 
a  little  nitre  has  been  added,  becomes 
i<rt>c~colored  when  heated,  and  disappears 
when  cooling. 

To  make  a  common  Knife-Board. — Cov- 
er with  thick  buff  leather,  on  which  are 
put  emery  one  part,  crocus  martis  three 
parts,  in  very  fine  powder,  mixed  into  a 


thick  paste,  with  a  little  lard  or  sweet  oil) 
and  spread  on  the  leather  to  the  thick- 
ness of  a  shilling.  It  gives  a  far  superior 
edge  and  polish  to  knives,  and  will  not 
wear  the  knife  near  so  much  as  the  com- 
mon method  of  using  brick-dust  on  a 
board. 

Harness-makers'  /<?£.— Take  one  drachm 
of  indigo,  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  isin- 
glass, half  an  ounce  of  soap,  four  ounces  of 
glue,  one  pennyworth  of  logwood  rasp- 
ings, and  one  quart  of  vinegar  ;  boil  the 
whole  together  over  a  slow  fire  till  re- 
duced to  one  pint.  A  small  quantity  is 
then  to  be  taken  up  on  a  clean  sponge, 
and  thinly  applied  to  harness,  boots,  &c. 
— taking  care  that  they  are  previously 
well  cleaned. 

To  restore  the  Color  of  Mahogany. — 
Wash  well  with  soap  and  water,  and  then 
polish  daily  with  the  following  oil : — 
Take  half  an  ounce  of  alkanet  root,  cut 
small,  and  add  to  a  pint  of  linseed  oil ; 
when  this  has  stood  for  a  week,  add  half 
an  ounce  of  powdered  gum  arabic,  and  an 
ounce  of  shellac  varnish  ;  let  these  stand 
in  a  bottle  by  the  fire  for  a  week,  then 
strain.  Rub  well  in. 

Cement  for  the  MoutJis  of  Corked 
Bottles. — Melt  together  a  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  sealing  wax,  the  same  quantity 
of  rosin,  a  couple  of  ounces  of  beeswax. 
When  it  froths,  stir  it  with  a  tallow 
candle.  As  soon  as  it  melts,  dip  the 
mouths  of  the  corked  bottles  into  it.  This 
is  an  excellent  thing  to  exclude  the  air 
from  such  things  as  are  injured  by  being 
exposed  to  it. 

To  take  Impressions  of  Leaves. — A 
very  beautiful  and  cheap  way  of  taking 
impressions  of  leaves  is  to  take  a  small 
quantity  of  bichromate  of  potash,  (say 
a  teaspoonful,)  which  may  be  had  at 
any  druggist's ;  dissolve  it  in  a  saucer 
full  of  water,  then  pass  the  pieces  of  pa- 
per on  which  the  impressions  are  to  be 
taken  through  the  solution,  and  while 


574 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


wet,  press  the  leaves,  &c.,  lightly  upon 
it.  and  expose  it  to  the  sun,  which  should 
be  shining  powerfully.  "When  perfectly 
dry,  remove  the  leaves,  and  a  perfect 
fac-simile  will  remain  in  a  light  lemon 
shade,  while  the  rest  of  the  paper  will  be 
of  a  dark  brown  tint.  Bichrome,  as  it  is 
generally  term,  is  in  dark  yellow  crystals, 
which  should  be  powdered  previous  to 
using  it. 

To  wash  a  White  Lace  Veil— Put  the 
veil  into  a  strong  lather  of  white  soap, 
and  very  clear  water,  and  let  it  simmer 
slowly  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour.  Take 
it  out  and  squeeze  but  not  rub  it.  Rinse 
it  in  two  cold  waters,  with  a  drop  or  two 
of  liquid  blue  in  the  last.  Have  ready 
some  very  clear  and  weak  gum  arabic 
water,  or  some  thin  starch,  or  rice-water. 
Pass  the  veil  through  it,  and  clear  it  by 
clapping.  Then  stretch  it  out  even,  and 
pin  it  to  dry  on  a  linen  cloth,  making  the 
edge  as  straight  as  possible,  opening  out 
all  the  scallops,  and  fastening  each  with 
pins.  When  dry,  lay  a  piece  of  thin 
muslin  smoothly  over  it,  and  iron  it  on 
the  wrong  side. 

To  clean  Freestone. — Wash  the  hearth 
with  soap,  and  wipe  it  with  a  wet  cloth. 
Or  rub  it  over  with  a  little  freestone 
powder,  after  washing  the  hearth  in  hot 
water.  Brush  off  the  powder  when 
dry. 

To  'black  a  Brick  Hearth. — Mix  some 
black  lead  with  soft  soap  and  a  little 
water,  and  boil  it — then  lay  it  on  with  a 
brush.  Or  mix  the  lead  with  water 
only. 

To  clean  Brass. — Rub  it  over  with  a 
bit  of  flannel  dipped  in  sweet  oil — then 
rub  it  hard  with  finely  powdered  rotten- 
stone — then  rub  it  with  a  soft  linen  cloth 
— and  polish  with  a  bit  of  wash  leather. 

Rub  creaking  hinges  with  soft  soap. 

Common  Tins. — Throw  some  wood- 
ashes  into  a  wash-kettle,  pour  on  water 


till  it  is  two-thirds  full,  and  then  let  it 
boil.  Or  make  a  strong  lye.  Dip  in  tho 
tins  when  it  is  boiling  hot ;  and,  if  they 
are  very  dirty,  leave  them  in  about  ten 
minutes.  Take  them  out,  and  cover  them 
with  a  mixture  of  soft  soap  and  the  very 
finest  sand.  This  must  be  rubbed  on 
with  a  coarse  tow-cloth.  Then  rinse 
them-in  a  tub  of  cold  water,  and  set  them 
in  the  sun  to  drain  and  dry.  When  dry, 
finish  by  rubbing  them  well  with  a  clean 
woollen  cloth  or  flannel.  They  will  look 
very  nice  and  bright.  You  may  clean 
pewter  in  the  same  manner. 

To  clean  Alabaster. — Make  a  mixture, 
in  the  proportion  of  two  ounces  of  aqua- 
fortis to  a  pint  of  cold  water,  which  ought 
to  be  filtered.  Dip  a  clean  brush  in  this 
liquid,  and  wash  the  alabaster  with  it  for 
five  minutes  or  more.  There  should  be 
a  brush  small  enough  to  go  in  the  most 
minute  parts.  Then  rinse  it  with  cold 
clear  water,  and  set  in  the  sun  for  two 
or  three  hours  to  dry.  The  aquafortis 
will  make  the  alabaster  very  white.  Soap 
should  never  be  used. 

Cleaning  Japanned  Waiters,  Urns,  &c. 
— Rub  on  with  a  sponge  a  little  white 
soap  and  some  lukewarm  water,  and 
wash  the  waiter  or  urn  quite  clean. 
Never  use  hot  water,  as  it  will  cause  the 
japan  to  scale  off.  Having  wiped  it  dry, 
sprinkle  a  little  flour  over  it ;  let  it  rest 
awhile,  and  then  rub  it  with  a  soft  dry 
cloth,  and  finish  with  a  silk  handkerchief. 
If  there  are  white  heat  marks  on  the 
waiters,  they  will  be  difficult  to  remove. 
But  you  may  try  rubbing  them  with  a 
flannel  dipped  in  sweet  oil,  and  afterwards 
in  spirits  of  wine.  Waiters  and  other 
articles  of  papier  mache  should  be  washed 
with  a  sponge  and  cold  water,  without 
soap,  dredged  with  flour  while  damp; 
and  after  a  while  wiped  off,  and  then 
polished  with  a  silk  handkerchief. 

Cheap  Contrivance  for  Filtering. — A 


MISCELLANEOUS   RECEIPTS. 


575 


very  cheap  and  good  contrivance  for  fil- 
tering is  to  take  a  large  garden  flower- 
pot, and  lay  in  the  bottom  a  piece  of 
sponge,  so  as  to  cover  the  whole.  Vpon 
this  put  a  few  smooth  clean  pebbles,  to 
keep  the  sponge  in  its  place,  and  fill  up 
the  pot,  to  within  two  or  three  inches  of 
the  brim,  with  a  mixture  of  one  part  of 
powdered  charcoal  to  two  parts  of  fine 
sharp  sand.  Then  cover  the  top  of  the 
pot  with  a  piece  of  clean  white  flannel, 
tied  tightly  round  the  rim  with  a  twine, 
but  so  as  to  sink  or  sway  down  in  the 
centre.  Set  the  flower-pot  in  a  pan  or 
tub,  and  pour  the  water  into  the  flannel, 
letting  it  filter  through  the  charcoal,  &c.f 
and,  by  the  time  it  has  passed  through 
the  sponge,  and  come  out  at  the  bottom, 
it  will  be  clear. 

Knives  and  ForTcs. — Handles  of  ebony 
should  be  cleaned  with  a  soft  cloth,  dip- 
ped in  a  little  sweet  oil ;  and  after  resting 
awhile  with  the  oil  on  them,  let  them  be 
well  wiped  with  a  clean  towel.  Ivory  or 
bone  handles  ought  to  be  washed  with  a 
soaped  flannel  and  lukewarm  water,  and 
then  wiped  with  a  dry  towel.  To  pre- 
serve or  restore  their  whiteness,  soak 
them  occasionally  in  alum-water  that  has 
been  boiled  and  then  grown  cold.  Let 
them  lie  for  an  hour  in  a  vessel  of  this 
alum-water.  Then  take  them  out,  and 
brush  them  well  with  a  small  brush  (a 
tooth-brush  will  do),  and  afterwards  take 
a  clean  linen  towel,  dip  it  in  cold  water, 
squeeze  it  out ;  and,  while  wet,  wrap  it 
round  the  handles,  leaving  them  in  it  to 
dry  gradually, — as,  if  dried  too  fast,  out 
of  the  alum-water,  they  will  be  injured. 
If  properly  managed,  this  process  will 
make  them  very  white. 

To  clean  Black  Lace  Veils. — These  are 
cleansed  by  passing  them  through  a  warm 
liquor  of  bullock's  gall  and  water ;  after 
which  they  must  be  rinsed  in  cold  water, 
then  cleansed  for  stiffening  and  finished 
as  follows :  Take  a  small  piece  of  glue, 


about  the  size  of  a  bean,  pour  boiling 
water  upon  it,  which  will  dissolve  it,  and 
when  dissolved,  pass  the  veil  through  it, 
then  clap  it  between  your  hands. 

To  taJce  out  paint  from  a  dress.-~ 
When  fresh  (having  wiped  off  as  much 
as  you  can),  it  may  be  taken  out  by  re- 
peated applications  of  spirits  of  turpen- 
tine or  of  spirits  of  wine,  rubbed  with  a 
soft  rag  or  a  flannel.  Ether  also  will  ef- 
face it,  if  applied  immediately.  If  the 
paint  has  been  allowed  to  harden,  nothing 
will  take  it  off  but  spirits  of  turpentine, 
rubbed  on  with  perseverance. 

Indelible  Harking  Ink,  without  pre- 
paration.— One  drachm  and  a  half  nitrate 
of  silver  (lunar  caustic),  one  ounce  dis- 
tilled water,  half  an  ounce  strong  muci- 
lage of  gum  arabic,  three-quarters  of  a 
drachm  of  liquid  ammonia;  mix  the  above 
in  a  clean  glass  bottle,  cork  tightly,  and 
keep  hi  a  dark  place  till  dissolved,  and 
ever  afterwards.  Directions  for  use : — 
Shake  the  bottle,  then  dip  a  clean  quill 
pen  in  the  ink,  and  write  or  draw  what 
you  require  on  the  article ;  immediately 
hold  it  close  to  the  fire,  or  pass  a  hot 
iron  over  it,  and  it  will  become  a  deep 
and  indelible  black,  indestructible  by 
either  time  or  acids. 

To  take  Impressions  of  Butterflies* 
Wings. — Clip  the  wings  of  the  butterfly. 
Lay  them  on  clean  paper,  in  the  form  of 
a  butterfly,  when  flying.  Spread  some 
thick  clean  gum  water  on  another  piece 
of  paper,  press  it  on  the  wings,  and  it 
will  take  them  up ;  lay  a  piece  of  white 
paper  over  it,  and  rub  it  gently  with 
your  finger.  Then  draw  the  body  in  the 
space  left  between  the  wings. 

Clothes  Balls. — Take  four  ounces  of 
fuller's  earth,  dried  so  as  to  crumble  into 
powder,  and  mix  with  it  half  an  ounce 
of  pearlash.  Wet  it  with  a  sufficiency 
of  lemon-juice  to  work -it  into  a  stiff 
paste.  Then  form  it  into  balls,  and  dry 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


them  in  the  sun,  or  on  the  top  of  a 
moderately  warm  stove.  When  quite 
dry  put  them  away  for  use.  They  will 
be  found  efficacious  in  removing  grease 
spots  and  stains  from  articles  of  clothing, 
first  wetting  the  spot  with  cold  water, 
and  then  rubbing  on  the  ball ;  afterwards 
drying  the  place  in  the  sun  or  by  the  fire, 
and  then  washing  it  off  with  a  sponge  and 
clean  water. 

Fine  Home-Made  Candles. — Take  ten 
ounces  of  fresh  mutton  fat  or  suet,  a 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  bleached  white 
wax,  a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  camphor, 
and  two  ounces  of  alum.  Cut  or  break 
up  all  these  articles,  and  then  melt  them 
together,  skimming  them  well.  Have 
ready  the  wicks  (which  should  be  pre- 
viously soaked  in  lime-water  and  salt- 
petre, and  then  thoroughly  dried),  fix 
them  in  the  moulds,  and  pour  in  the 
melted  liquid,  proceeding  as  in  making 
common  mould  candles.  Candles  made 
in  this  manner  of  the  above  materials, 
are  hard  and  durable,  and  will  not  run ; 
burning  also  with  a  very  clear  light. 

Packing  Household  Articles. — In  pack- 
ing for  the  removal  of  a  family  to  a  dis- 
tant place,  let  all  the  boxes  and  trunks 
be  numbered,  and  the  numbers  put  down 
in  a  book ;  let  some  one  who  overlooks 
the  whole  of  the  packing,  set  down  every 
article,  denoting  the  exact  box  or  trunk 
in  which  it  is  placed,  and  the  order  in 
which  the  things  are  put  in,  beginning 
with  those  at  the  bottom.  By  this  means, 
after  arriving  at  the  place  of  destination, 
you  will  know,  by  consulting  your  book, 
where  to  find  whatever  you  want ;  and 
which  of  the  boxes  it  will  be  best  to 
open  first.  Also,  in  a  long  sea  voyage, 
if  there  is  occasion  to  have  a  trunk 
brought  from  the  hold  to  get  out  of  it 
any  particular  article,  your  book  will  tell 
exactly  in  which  of  your  trunks  the  ar- 
ticle is. 

To  wash  Vials. — Put  into  a  washkettle 


some  sifted  ashes,  and  pour  on  it  cold 
water.  Then  put  in  the  vials  (without 
corks),  place  the  kettle  over  the  fire,  and 
let  it  gradually  come  to  a  boil.  After  it 
has  boiled  awhile,  take  it  off.  and  set  it 
aside  ;  letting  the  vials  remain  in  it  till 
cold.  Then  take  them  out,  rinse,  drain 
them,  and  wipe  the  outsides.  You  may 
wash  black  bottles  in  the  same  manner. 
If  you  have  occasion  to  wash  a  single  vial 
or  bottle,  pour  into  it  through  a  small 
funnel  either  some  lye,  or  some  lukewarm 
water  in  which  a  little  pearlash  has  been 
dissolved ;  shake,  let  it  stand  awhile  to 
soak.  Then  rinse  it  well  in  cold  water, 
two  or  three  times.  If  it  still  smells  of 
the  former  contents,  soak  it  in  more 
pearl-ash  water  (with  the  addition  of  a 
little  lime),  or  in  more  lye. 

Cleaning  Kettles  and  Saucepans. — A 
receipt  for  cleaning  the  inside  of  kettles 
or  saucepans  of  the  hard,  stony  sub- 
stance, resulting  from  continually  boiling 
hard  water  : — In  a  kettle  of  boiling  water, 
put  about  the  sixteenth  part  of  an  ounce 
of  sal-ammonia.  Let  it  boil  one  hour, 
and  then  the  substance  will  be  dissolved, 
and  is  readily  disengaged  from  the 
metal. 

To  remove  Black  Stains  from  the  STcin. 
— Half  an  ounce  each  of  cream  of  tartar 
and  oxalic  acid,  mixed  and  pounded  to- 
gether, kept  in  a  covered  cup  in  the 
drawer,  and  marked  "  poison."  To  use 
it,  wet  the  black  stains  with  the  corner 
of  a  towel,  dipped  in  water,  rub  on  a  little  of 
the  mixture.  Then  immediately  wash  it  off 
with  water,  and  afterwards  with  soap  and 
water,  and  the  black  stains  will  be  visible 
no  longer.  This  mixture  will  also  remove 
ink,  and  all  other  stains  from  the  fingers, 
and  from  white  clothes.  It  is  more 
speedy  in  its  effects,  if  applied  with  warm 
water. 

For  cleaning  Wainscots,  and  other 
Painted  Woods.-Four  ounces  of  potash  and 
four  ounces  *of  powdered  quick-lime  are 


MISCELLANEOUS   RECEIPTS. 


577 


to  be  mixed  together,  and  boiled  for  half 
an  hour  in  three  quarts  of  water  ;  this 
mixture  is  to  stand  until  it  is  cold,  and 
quite  clear ;  the  clear  liquid  is  then  pour- 
ed off,  and  a  painter's  brush,  dipped  into 
it,  is  to  be  passed  over  the  surface  of  the 
wood,  in  the  same  way  as  for  painting, 
immediately  afterwards  washing  with 
cold  water.  This  mode  of  cleaning  will 
frequently  render  a  new  coat  of  paint 
unnecessar}7",  and  it  has  the  advantage  of 
being  destructive  to  the  eggs  of  insects 
which  may  be  deposited  in  the  interstices 
of  the  wood ;  where  there  is  reason  to 
suspect  that  bugs  are  m  the  wood,  it  may 
be  well,  as  an  additional  precaution,  to 
add  to  the  mixture  two  drachms  of  cor- 
rosive sublimate. 

Balloons  from  Turkey's  Crops. — Free 
the  crop  from  a  thick  coat  of  fat ;  turn 
the  inside  out,  and  wash  the  food  away ; 
soak  it  in  water  for  a  day  or  two,  then 
lay  it  on  a  cloth,  and  with  a  bone  or 
knife  scrape  off  the  internal  coat  of  the 
stomach ;  wash  it  well  and  dry  it  with  a 
clean  cloth ;  then  turn  the  crop,  and  make 
an  incision  through  the  external  coats, 
taking  particular  care  not  to  cut  through 
the  membrane ;  draw  the  coats  at  once 
over  the  neck,  which  must  be  cut  long 
for  greater  convenience  in  using  the  bal- 
loon when  finished.  Proceed  with  the 
other  neck  in  the  same  way  ;  tie  it  firm 
with  silk,  and  cut  it  close  to  the  body  of 
the  balloon ;  it  must  be  then  distended 
with  wind  and  hung  up  to  dry.  It  may 
then  be  painted  and  varnished,  but  will 
not  require  it  if  properly  prepared.  It 
may  be  made  large  enough  to  contain  a 
gallon  of  gas,  and  so  light  as  to  weigh 
only  thirty  grains. 

Black  Paper  for  Drawing  Patterns. — 
Mix  lamp-black  and  sweet  oil ;  with  a  bit 
of  flannel  cover  a  sheet  or  two  of  large 
writing-paper  with  this  mixture;  then 
dab  the  paper  dry  with  a  bit  of  fine  linen, 
and  keep  it  for  using  in  the  following 


manner : — Put  the  black  side  on  another 
sheet  of  paper,  and  fasten  the  corners  to- 
gether with  small  pins.  Lay  on  the  back 
of  the  black  paper  the  pattern  to  be 
drawn,  and  go  over  it  with  the  point  of 
a  steel  pencil ;  the  black  paper  will  then 
leave  the  impression  of  the  pattern  on 
the  under  sheet,  on  which  you  must  draw 
it  with  ink. 

If  you  draw  patterns  on  cloth  or  mus- 
lin, do  it  with  a  pen  dipped  in  a  bit  of 
stone  blue,  a  bit  of  sugar,  and  a  little 
water,  mixed  smooth  in  a  teacup,  in 
which  it  will  be  always  ready  for  use,  if 
fresh ;  wet  to  a  due  consistence  as 
wanted. 

Preservation  of  BooJcs. — A  few  drops 
of  any  perfumed  oil  will  secure  libraries 
from  the  consuming  effects  of  mouldiness 
and  damp. 

Water-proof  Boots.— -Saturate  the  boots 
with  solution  of  Caoutchouc  (India- 
rubber),  till  they  will  absorb  no  more, 
at  intervals  of  a  week,  without  needing 
to  leave  a  coating  on  the  surface.  The 
solution  is  made  with  an  ounce  of  India- 
rubber  in  a  pint  of  spirits  of  turpentine, 
or  coal  naphtha,  kept  warm,  and  oc- 
casionally stirred  till  dissolved,  which 
takes  three  or  four  days.  In  a  boiling 
water  bath  it  can  be  done  in  a  few 
hours. 

To  clean  Head  and  Clothes-brushes. — 
Put  a  table-spoonful  of  pearl-ash  into 
a  pint  of  boiling  water.  Having  fastened 
a  bit  of  sponge  to  the  end  of  a  stick,  dip 
it  into  the  solution,  and  wash  the  brush 
with  it,  carefully  going  in  among  the 
bristles.  Next  pour  over  it  some  clean 
hot  water,  and  let  it  lie  a  little  while. 
Then  drain  it;  wipe  and  dry  it  before  the 
fire. 

To  make  Artificial  Red  Coral  Branches 
for  the  Embellishment  of  Grottoes.-^ 
Take  clear  resin,  dissolve  it  in  a  brass- 
pan,  to  every  ounce  of  which  add  two 


5T8 


THE   PRACTICAL   HOUSEKEEPER. 


drachms  of  the  finest  vermilion  ;  when 
stirred  well  together,  choose  the  twigs 
and  branches,  peeled  and  dried  ;  then  take 
a  pencil  and  paint  the  branches  all  over 
whilst  the  composition  is  warm ;  after- 
wards shape  them  in  imitation  of  natural 
coral.  This  done,  hold  the  branches 
over  a  gentle  coal-fire  till  all  is  smooth 
and  even,  as  if  polished.  In  the  same 
manner  white  coral  may  be  prepared  with 
white  lead,  and  black  coral  with  lamp- 
black. A  grotto  may  be  built,  with  little 
expense,  of  glass,  cinders,  pebbles,  pieces 
of  large  flint,  shells,  moss,  stones,  coun- 
terfeit coral,  pieces  of  chalk,  &c.,  all  bound 
or  cemented  together  with  the  above  de- 
scribed cement. 

To  dean  Cane  Chair  Bottoms. — Turn 
up  the  chair  bottom,  and  with  hot  water 
and  a  sponge  wash  the  cane- work  well, 
so  that  it  may  become  completely  soaked ; 
should  it  be  very  dirty,  you  may  add 
soap.  Let  it  dry  in  the  open  air  if  pos- 
sible, or  in  a  place  where  there  is  a 
thorough  draught,  and  it  will  become  as 
tight  and  firm  as  when  new,  providing 
that  it  has  not  been  broken. 

To  clean  Decanters. — Roll  up  in  small 
pieces  some  coarse  brown  paper,  then 
wet  and  soap  the  same,  put  them  into 
the  vessel  with  a  little  lukewarm  water, 
and  some  common  soda,  shake  them  well, 
then  rinse  with  clean  water,  and  it  will 
be  as  bright  and  clear  as  when  new. 

To  render  Shoes  Water-proof. — Mix  a 
pint  of  drying  oil,  two  ounces  of  yellow 
wax,  two  ounces  of  turpentine,  and  half 
an  ounce  of  Burgundy  pitch,  over  a  slow 
fire.  Lay  the  mixture,  while  hot,  on  the 
boots  or  shoes  with  a  sponge  or  soft 
brush ;  and,  when  they  are  dry,  lay  it  on 
again  and  again,  until  the  leather  becomes 
quite  saturated,  that  is  to  say,  will  hold 
no  more.  Let  them  then  be  "put  away, 
and  not  be  worn  until  they  are  perfectly 
dry  and  elastic :  they  will  afterwards  be 
found  jiot  only  impenetrable  to  wet,  but 


soft  and  pliable,   and  of  much  longe 
duration. 

To  clean  papered  Walls. — The  very 
best  method'  is  to  rub  them  with  stale 
bread.  Out  the  crust  off  very  thick,  and 
wipe  straight  down  from  the  top,  then 
go  to  the  top  again,  and  so  on.  The  staler 
the  bread  the  better. 

To  cleanse  Feather  Beds  and  Mattresses. 
— When  feather  beds  become  solid  or 
heavy,  they  may  be  made  clean  and  light 
thus :  Rub  them  over  with  a  stiff  brush, 
dipped  in  hot  soap-suds.  When  clean, 
lay  them  on  a  shed  or  any  other  clean 
place,  where  the  rain  will  fall  on  them. 
When  thoroughly  soaked,  let  them  dry 
in  a  hot  sun  for  six  or  seven  davs,  shak 
ing  them  up  well,  and  turning  them  over 
each  day.  They  should  be  covered  over 
with  a  thick  cloth  during  the  night.  This 
way  of  washing  the  bed-ticking  and 
feathers  makes  them  very  fresh  and  light, 
and  is  much  easier  than  the  old  fashioned 
way  of  emptying  the  beds,  and  washing 
the  feathers  separately,  while  it  answers 
quite  as  well.  Care  must  be  taken  to 
dry  the  bed  perfectly,  before  sleeping 
on  it. 

To  keep  Eggs  — Half  a  pint  of  salt, 
half  a  pint  of  lime  to  two  gallons  of  hot 
water.  Cover  the  eggs  with  the  solution. 

To  preserve  various  Icinds  of  Fruits 
through  the  Winter. — Apples  can  be 
kept  till  June,  by  taking  only  those  that 
are  hard  and  sound,  wiping  them  dry, 
then  packing  them  in  tight  barrels,  with 
a  layer  of  bran  to  each  layer  of  apples. 
Envelope  the  barrel  in  a  linen  cloth,  to 
protect  it  from  frost,  and  keep  it  in  a  cool 
place,  but  net  so  cold  as  to  freeze  the 
apples.  It  is  said  that  mortar,  laid  over 
the  top  of  a  barrel  of  apples,  is  a  good 
thing  to  preserve  them,  as  it  draws  the 
air  from  them,  which  is  the  principal 
cause  of  their  decaying.  Care  should  be 
taken  not  to  have  it  come  in  contact  with 
the  apples.  To  preserve  oranges  and 


MISCELLANEOUS   RECEIPTS. 


579 


lemons  several  months,  take  those  that 
are  perfectly  fresh,  and  wrap  each  one  in 
soft  paper  ;  put  them  in  glass  jars,  or  a 
very  light  box,  with  white  sand,  that  has 
been  previously  dried  in  an  oven  a  few 
hours,  after  it  has  been  baked  in.  The 
sand  should  be  strewed  thick  over  each 
one  of  the  oranges,  as  they  are  laid  in  the 
iar,  and  the  whole  covered  with  a  thick 
layer  of  it.  Close  the  jar  up  tight,  and 
keep  it  in  a  cool  dry  place,  but  not  so 
cool  as  to  freeze  the  fruit.  To  preserve 
grapes,  gather  them  on  a  dry  day,  when 
they  are  not  quite  dead  ripe,  and  pick 
those  that  are  not  far  off  from  the  stems. 
Lay  the  bunches  of  grapes  in  a  glass  jar, 
and  sprinkle  around  each  of  them  a  thick 
layer  of  bran,  so  that  they  will  not  touch 
each  other.  Have  a  thick  layer  of  bran 
on  the  top,  and  cork  and  seal  the  jar  very 
tight,  so  that  the  air  may  be  entirely  ex- 
cluded. 

To  destroy  Cockroaches,  Ants,  and 
other  Household  Vermin.  —  Hellebore, 
rubbed  over  with  molasses  and  put 
round  the  places  that  cockroaches  fre- 
quent, is  a  very  effectual  poison  for  them. 
Quicksilver  and  the  white  of  an  egg,  beat 
together,  and  laid  with  a  feather  round 
the  crevices  of  the  bedsteads  and  the 
sacking,  is  very  effectual  in  destroying 
bugs  in  them.  To  kill  flies,  when  so 
numerous  as  to  be  troublesome,  keep 
cobalt,  wet  with  spirit,  in  a  large  shallow 
plate.  The  spirit  will  attract  the  flies, 
and  the  cobalt  will  kill  them  very  soon. 
The  flour  of  sulphur  is  said  to  be  good  to 
drive  ants  away,,  if  sprinkled  around  the 
places  that  they  frequent.  Weak  brine 
will  kill  worms  in  gravel  walks,  if  kept 
moist  with  it  a  week  in  the  spring,  and 
three  or  four  days  in  the  fall. 

COMMON  SIMPLE  DYES. 

To  dye  Black. — Allow  a  pound  of  log- 
wood to  each  pound  of  goods  that  are  to 
be  dyed.  Soak  it  over  night  in  soft  wa- 
ter, then  boil  it  an  hour,  and  strain  the 


water  in  which  it  is  boiled.  For  each 
pound  of  logwood,  dissolve  an  ounce  of 
blue  vitriol  in  lukewarm  water  sufficient 
to  wet  the  goods.  Dip  the  goods  in — • 
when  saturated  with  it,  turn  the  whole 
into  the  logwood  dye.  If  the  goods  are 
cotton  set  the  vessel  on  the  fire,  and  let 
the  goods  boil  ten  or  fifteen  minutes, 
stirring  them  constantly  to  prevent  their 
spotting.  Silk  and  woollen  goods  should 
not  be  boiled  in  the  dye-stuff,  but  it 
should  be  kept  at  a  scalding  heat  for 
twenty  minutes.  Drain  the  goods  with- 
out wringing,  and  hang  them  in  a  dry, 
shady  place,  where  they  will  have  the 
air.  When  dry,  set  the  color  by,  put 
them  into  scalding  hot  water,  that  has 
salt  in  it,  in  the  proportion  of  a  teacupful 
to  three  gallons  of  the  water.  Let  the 
goods  remain  in  it  till  cold,  then  hang 
them  where  they  will  dry  ;  they  should 
not  be  wrung.  Boiling  hot  suds  is  the 
best  thing  to  set  the  color  of  black  silk — 
let  it  remain  in  it  till  cold.  Soaking 
black-dyed  goods  in  sour  milk,  is  also 
good  to  set  the  color. 

Green  and  Hue  Dye,  for  Silks  and 
Woollens. — For  green  dye,  take  a  pound 
of  oil  of  vitriol,  and  turn  it  upon  half  an 
ounce  of  Spanish  indigo,  that  has  been  re- 
duced to  a  fine  powder.  Stir  them  well 
together,  then  add  a  lump  of  pearlash, 
of  the  size  of  a  pea  ; — as  soon  as  the  fer- 
mentation ceases,  bottle  it — the  dye  will 
be  fit  for  use  the  next  day.  Chemical  blue 
is  made  in  the  same  manner,  only  using 
half  the  quantity  of  vitriol.  For  woollen 
goods,  the  East  indigo  will  answer  as  well 
as  the  Spanish,  and  comes  much  lower. 
This  dye  will  not  answer  for  cotton 
goods,  as  the  vitriol  rots  the  threads. 
Wash  the  articles  that  are  to  be  dyed  till 
perfectly  clean,  and  free  from  color.  li 
you  cannot  extract  the  color  by  rubbing  it 
in  hot  suds,  boil  it  out,  and  rinse  ic  in  soft 
water,  till  entirely  free  from  soap,  as  the 
soap  will  ruin  the  dye.  To  dye  a  pale 
color,  put  to  each  quart  of  soft  warm  wa- 


580 


THE    PRACTICAL    HOUSEKEEPER. 


ter  that  is  to  be  used  for  the  dye.  ten 
drops  of  the  above  composition ; — if  you 
wish  a  deep  color,  more  will  be  necessary. 
Put  in  the  articles  without  crowd  ing.  and 
let  them  remain  in  till  of  a  good  color — 
the  dye-stuff  should  be  kept  warm.  Take 
the  articles  out  without  wringing,  drain  as 
much  of  the  dye  out  of  them  as  possible, 
then  hang  them  to  dry  in  a  shady,  airy 
place.  They  should  be  dyed  when  the 
weather  is  dry — if  not  dried  quick,  they 
will  not  look  nice.  When  perfectly  dry. 
wash  them  in  lukewarm  suds,  to  keep 
the  vitriol  from  injuring  the  texture  of 
the  cloth.  If  you  wish  for  a  lively  bright 
green,  mix  a  little  of  the  above  composi- 
tion with  yellow  dye. 

Yellow  Dyes. — To  dye  buff  color,  boil 
equal  parts  of  annatto  and  common  pot- 
ash, in  soft  clear  water.  When  dissolv- 
ed, take  it  from  the  fire  ;  when  cool,  put* 
in  the  goods,  which  should  previously  be 
washed  free  from  spots  and  color  ;  set 
them  on  a  moderate  fire  where  they  will 
keep  hot,  till  the  goods  are  of  the  shade 
you  wish.  To  dye  salmon  and  orange 
color,  tie  annatto  in  a  bag,  and  soak  it  in 
warm  soft  soap  suds,  till  it  becomes  soft, 
so  that  you  can  squeeze  enough  of  it 
through  the  bag  to  make  the  suds  a  deep 
yellow — put  in  the  articles,  which  should 
be  clean,  and  free  from  color  ;  boil  them 
till  of  the  shade  you  wish.  There  should 
be  enough  of  the  dye  to  cover  the  goods 
— stir  them  while  boiling,  to  keep  them 
from  spotting.  This  dye  will  make  a 
salmon  or  orange  color,  according  to  the 
strength  of  it,  and  the  time  the  goods  re- 
main in.  Drain  them  out  of  the  dye,  and 
dry  them  quick,  in  the  shade — when  dry, 
wash  them  in  soft  soap  suds.  Goods 
dyed  in  this  manner  should  never  be 
rinsed  in  clear  water.  Peach  leaves,  fus- 
tic, and  saffron,  all  make  a  good  straw  or 
lemon  color,  according  to  the  strength  of 
the  dye.  They  should  be  steeped  in  fair 
soft  water,  in  an  earthen  or  tin  vessel,  and 
then  strained,  and  the  dye  set  with  alum, 


and  a  little  gum  arabic  dissolved  in  the 
dye,  if  you  wish  to  stiffen  the  article. 
When  the  dye-stuff  is  strained,  steep  the 
articles  in  it. 

Red  Dyes. — Madder  makes  a  good  dur- 
able red,  but  not  a  brilliant  color.  To 
make  dye  of  it,  allow  for  half  a  pound  of 
it  three  ounces  of  alum,  and  one  of  cream 
of  tartar,  and  six  gallons  of  water.  This 
proportion  of  ingredients  will  make  suf- 
ficient dye  for  six  or  seven  pounds  of 
goods.  Heat  half  of  the  water  scalding 
hot,  in  a  clean  brass  kettle,  then  put  in 
the  alum  and  cream  of  tartar,  and  let  it 
dissolve.  When  the  water  boils,  stir  the 
alum  and  tartar  up  in  it,  put  in  the  goods, 
and  let  them  boil  a  couple  of  hours ; 
then  rinse  them  in  fair  water — empty  the 
kettle,  and  put  in  three  gallons  of  water, 
and  the  madder ;  rub  it  fine  in  the  water, 
then  put  in  the  goods,  and  set  them 
where  they  will  keep  scalding  hot  for  an 
hour,  without  boiling — stir  them  con- 
stantly. When  they  have  been  scalding 
an  hour,  increase  the  fire  till  they  boil. 
Let  them  boil  five  minutes,  then  drain 
them  out  of  the  dye,  and  rinse  them, 
without  wringing,  in  fair  water,  and  hang 
them  in  the  shade,  where  they  will  dry. 
To  dye  a  fine  crimson,  take  for  each 
pound  of  goods  two  and  a  half  ounces  of 
alum,  an  ounce  and  a  half  of  white  tar- 
tar— put  them  in  a  brass  kettle,  with  suf- 
ficient fair  water  to  cover  your  goods ; 
set  it  where  it  will  boil  briskly  for 
several  minutes ;  then  put  in  the  goods, 
which  should  be  washed  clean,  and  rinsed 
in  fair  water.  When  the  goods  have 
boiled  half  an  hour,  take  them  out,  with- 
out wringing,  and  hang  where  they  will 
cool  all  over  alike,  without  drying ;  empty 
out  the  alum  and  tartar  water,  put  fresh 
water  in  the  kettle,  and  for  each  pound 
of  goods  to  be  dyed,  put  in  an  ounce  of 
cochineal,  powdered  fine.  Set  the  kettle 
on  the  fire,  and  let  the  water  boil  fifteen 
or  twenty  minutes ;  then  put  in  sufficient 
cold  water  to  make  it  lukewarm,  put  in 


MISCELLANEOUS  RECEIPTS. 


581 


the  goods,  and  boil  them  an  hour  and  a 
quarter  —  take  them  out  without  wring- 
ing, and  dry  them  in  a  shady  place.  The 
blossoms  of  the  Balm  of  Gilead,  steeped 
with  fair  water  in  a  vessel,  then  strained, 
will  give  silk  a  pretty  red  color.  The 
silk  should  be  washed  clean  and  free  from 
color,  then  rinsed  in  fair  water,  and  boil- 
ed in  the  strained  dye,  with  a  small 
piece  of  alum.  To  dye  a  fine  delicate 
pink,  use  a  carmine  saucer — the  direc- 
tions for  dyeing  come  with  the  saucers.  It 
is  too  expensive  a  dye  for  bulky  goods, 
but  for  faded  fancy  shawls  and  ribbons, 
it  is  quite  worth  the  while  to  use  it,  as  it 
gives  a  beautiful  shade  of  pink. 

Slate-Colored  Dye. — To  make  a  good 
dark  slate  color,  boil  sugar-loaf  paper 
with  vinegar  in  an  iron  utensil  —  put  in 
alum  to  set  the  color.  Tea-grounds,  set 
with  copperas,  make  a  good  slate  color. 
To  produce  a  light  slate  color,  boil  white 
maple  bark  in  the  clear  water,  with  a  lit- 
tle alum ;  the  bark  should  be  boiled  in  a 
brass  utensil,  and  the  dye  for  slate  color 
put  into  it.  Goods  should  be  boiled  in  it, 
and  then  hung  where  they  will  drain  and 
dry. 

To  preserve  Steel  Pens  from  Corrosion. 
Dip  them  for  a  few  moments  in  ethereal 
solution  of  gold.  This  covers  them  with 
a  film  of  pure  metallic  gold,  which  pre- 
vents the  ink  acting  upon  the  steel. 

Corns.  —  The  laminated  corn,  or  cal- 
lus, produced  by  pressure,  congestion, 
and  increased  formation  of  epidermis,  may 
be  softened  by  moisture,  as  by  soaking 
in  warm  water,  by  the  application  of  a 
starch  or  soap  poultice  ;  and,  being  soft- 
ened, the  thick  cuticle  may  be  thinned 
by  scraping  with  a  blunt  knife,  or  it 
may  be  dissolved  by  an  alkaline  solution, 
with  moderate  friction.  When  the  thick- 
ening has  been  reduced  sufficiently,  it 
may  be  kept  down  by  daily  washing 
with  soap.  The  eye  of  the  corn  may  be 
always  made  visible  by  rubbing  the  part 
with  eau-de-cologne  or  spirits  of  wine ; 
37 


and  any  remains  of  the  core  should  be 
removed  with  the  point  of  a  knife.  Af- 
ter the  operation,  the  corn  should  be 
covered  with  a  piece  of  soft  plaster  for  a 
day  or  two,  and  a  perforated  plaster 
of  buff  leather  subsequently  worn  to 
keep  off  pressure  from  the  centre  of  the 
growth.  The  removal  of  a  corn  may  be 
very  considerably  aided  by  the  use  of 
the  compound  tincture  of  iodine  painted 
on  the  swelling.  When  the  corn  is  pain- 
ful, this  application  subdues  the  sensibili- 
ty, and  renders  the  corn  dry  and  pliable, 
and  easy  of  removal  by  means  of  a  file. 
Soap  and  water,  so  useful  to  the  skin  in 
many  ways,  are  especially  serviceable  to 
feet  afflicted  with  corns,  and  particularly 
when  they  are  soft  corns.  Daily  wash- 
ing with  soap,  and  the  subsequent  inter- 
position of  a  piece  of  cotton-wool  between 
the  toes,  may  be  considered  as  a  cure  for 
soft  corns.  In  these  cases,  the  skin  may 
be  hardened  by  sponging  with  spirits  of 
camphor  after  the  washing.  The  cot- 
ton-wool should  be  removed  at  night; 
and  this  is  a  good  time  for  the  camphor- 
ated spirits.  Adhesive  plaster,  sonstantly 
applied,  will  remove  soreness  and  twin- 
ging, and  often  effect  an  entire  cure. 

Dandruff.  —  Nitric  acid,  twelve  drops ; 
Distilled  water,  three  ounces.  Mix,  and 
apply  once  a  day. 

Rat  Poison.  —  Kecent  experiments 
have  shown  that  squills  is  an  excellent 
poison  for  rats.  The  powder  should  be 
mixed  with  some  fatty  substance,  and 
spread  upon  sl.ces  of  bread. 

Asthma.  —  A  prominent  professor  in 
one  of  our  New-England  colleges,  who 
has  been  an  asthmatic  for  upwards  of 
brty  years,  and  tried  a  great  variety  of 
remedies,  gives  this  the  preference  over 
all  others.  It  consists  simply  in  inhaling 
the  smoke  of  stramonium  leaves,  which 
lave  been  hnmersed  in  a  saturated  solu- 
tion of  nitre  (nitrate  of  potassa),  and 
then  dried.  Prepared  in  this  way,  it 
)urns  with  great  energy  and  complete- 


582 


THE  PRACTICAL  HOUSEKEEPER. 


ness,  rarely  going  out  until  the  whole  is 
consumed.  These  remedies,  separately, 
have  long  been  known,  both  to  profes- 
sional and  private  experience ;  but  the 
combination  seems  particularly  conve- 
nient and  useful.  It  is  best  kept  in  a  tin 
or  other  metallic  box,  the  inside  of  the 
cover  being  used  as  a  surface  on  which  to 
burn  it  while  inhaling.  The  effects  are 
the  more  marked  if  it  is  used  early,  and 
before  the  paroxysm  becomes  fully  de- 
veloped. 

Ingrowing  Toe-Nail. —  This  painful 
abnormal  condition  of  the  toe-nail  may 
be  cured  by  allowing  the  nail  to  con- 
tinue to  grow  without  paring  it.  The 
boot  or  shoe  will  depress  the  nail  at  the 
end  as  it  grows  longer,  which  will  gradu- 
ally elevate  the  part  where  it  presses 
upon  and  into  the  soft  tissues  of  the  toe ; 
thus  removing  the  irritation,  the  sore 
soon  heals.  This  is  far  preferable  to  the 
rash  and  painful  operation  of  tearing  off 
the  toe-nail  with  forceps. 

Glycerine  Lotion.  —  Take  of  Glycer- 
ine, inodorous,  3  fluid  ounces.  Muci- 
lage of  gum  arabic,  10  fluid  drachms. 
Pulv.  cochineal,  5  grains.  Hot  water,  1 
1-2  fluid  ounces.  Deod.  alcohol,  2  1-2 
fluid  ounces.  Oil  of  rose,  8  drops. 
Pulv.  gum  arabic,  1-2  drachm.  Water, 
8  fluid  ounces. 

Rub  the  cochineal  with  the  hot  water 
gradually  added,  and  then  add  the  al- 
cohol ;  triturate  the  oil  of  rose  with  the 
gum  arabic,  and  gradually  add  the  water. 
With  this  mix  well  the  solution  first 
formed,  and  filter,  and  to  the  filtered 
liquid  add  the  glycerine  and  mucilage 
and  shake  well.  This  forms  a  beautiful 
and  elegant  preparation,  with  a  rich, 
rosy  fragrance.  It  renders  the  skin  soft 
and  smooth,  and  is  excellent  as  an 
application  to  the  face  after  shaving. 

Laundry  Polish.  —  Take  two  ounces 
of  fine  white  gum-arabic  powder,  put  it 
into  a  pitcher,  and  pour  on  a  pint  of 
water  ;  and  then,  having  covered  it,  let 


it  stand  all  night.  In  the  morning  pour 
it  carefully  from  the  dregs  into  a  clean 
bottle,  cork  it,  and  keep  it  for  use.  A 
tablespoonful  of  this  gum-water,  added  to 
a  pint  of  starch  made  in  the  usual  man- 
ner, will  give  to  lawns,  either  white  or 
printed,  a  look  of  newness,  after  they 
are  washed.  It  is  excellent  as  a  polish 
for  shirt-bosoms  and  other  starched 
linen. 

Ventilation,  Sunlight,  and  Warm  Cloth- 
ing.—  Fresh  air  by  day  and  by  night, 
strong  and  nourishing  food,  dry  soil  on 
which  to  live,  sunlight,  and  warm  cloth- 
ing, are  the  means  of  saving  many  lives 
which  would  have  been  hopelessly  lost  in 
the  preceding  generation.  If  our  conjec- 
tures are  correct,  this  improvement  may 
be  expected  to  continue  ;  and  everybody 
can  make  it  greater.  Ventilate  the 
schoolrooms  and  the  workshops,  and 
the  stores  and  the  houses.  In  cold 
weather,  let  the  air,  comfortably  and 
equally  wanned,  be  generally  supplied 
from  without  in  a  constantly-flowing  cur- 
rent. Let  those  who  can  provide  it  in 
their  homes  remember  that  an  open  fire, 
which  sends  two-thirds  of  the  heat  up 
the  chimney,  furnishes  the  best  ventila- 
tion, for  a  room  of  moderate  size  which 
the  ingenuity  of  man  has  yet  devised; 
and  that  the  heat  escaping  by  the  flue  is 
the  price  to  be  paid  for  it.  Let  in  the 
sunlight,  and  never  mind  the  carpets; 
better  they  should  fade  than  the  health 
of  the  family.  When  a  man  proposes  to 
build  a  dwelling  in  a  swamp,  warn  him 
of  his  danger. 

Rheumatism.  —  Rheumatism  is  improp- 
erly regarded  as  an  inflammatory  affec- 
tion of  the  joints.  The  pains  and  in- 
flammation there  stand  in  the  same 
degree  to  the  disease  as  the  pustules 
or  the  scarlet  eruption  in  smallpox  and 
in  scarlet  fever  do  to  these  diseases. 
In  rheumatism  the  pains  are  merely  the 
symptoms  of  a  general  febrile  disease. 
It  is  to  this,  therefore,  that  the  attention 


MISCELLANEOUS   RECEIPTS. 


583 


is  to  be  turned.  There  is  in  every  in- 
stance a  condition  of  plethora  which  con- 
stitutes the  predisposition  to  rheumatism, 
and  w4iich  renders  cold,  or  exposure  to 
currents  of  air,  capable  of  producing  the 
disease.  Of  the  medical  treatment  it  is 
not  necessary  to  speak  here  ;  but  with 
respect  to  the  prevention  of  the  attack, 
or  the  warding  off  its  return  after  it  has 
been  relieved,  the  following  rules  should 
be  observed  :  — 

First. —  It  is  of  the  utmost  importance 
to  commence  the  renewal  of  the  move- 
ments of  the  affected  joints  as  early  as 
possible  after  the  pain  is  allayed.  Their 
strength  and  flexibility  depend  solely  on 
the  early  renewal  of  motion.  On  the 
contrary,  rest  tends  to  retard  the  restora- 
tion of  the  affected  parts  to  complete 
health.  They  remain  painful  and  stiff, 
and  resist  every  movement  which  is  at- 
tempted :  the  more  motion  is  cultivated, 
the  sooner  are  the  limbs  restored  to  their 
natural  functions.  Their  exercise  recov- 
ers the  balance  of  the  circulation,  pre- 
vents effusion,  aids  absorption,  and  con- 
sequently favors  flexibility.  If  rest  be 
indulged,  from  the  dread  of  pain,  the 
joints  and  the  parts  surrounding  them 
become  rigid,  contracted,  and  their  free 
action  permanently  impaired,  while  the 
muscles  waste,  and  lose  their  power  of 
contracting. 

Second.  —  Friction,  and  the  daily  use 
of  the  salt-water  shower-bath,  have  a 
powerful  effect  in  warding  off  the  returns 
of  the  disease.  (The  salt-water  shower- 
bath  is  made  by  the  addition  of  a  quart 
of  salt  brine  to  three  pailfuls  of  water.) 

Third.  —  Flannel  next  the  skin,  and 
warm  clothing  generally,  are  absolutely 
essential.  In  a  changeable  climate,  daily 
attention  in  adapting  dress  to  the  weath- 
er is  required. 

Fourth. —  Due  attention  must  be  given 
to  diet.  Bear  in  mind  that  improper 
food,  or  eating  to  oppression,  causes  indi- 
gestion. Bad  digestion  produces  bad 


blood ;  and  bad  blood  causes  rheumatism, 
and  ailments  of  every  nature.  Plain 
nourishing  food  is  what  the  system  de- 
mands —  being  regulated  in  quantity  by 
the  exercise  taken,  and  time  spent  in  the 
open  air.  Saccharine  matters,  pastry, 
sweetmeats,  and  whatever  can  contribute 
to  a  dyspeptic  state  of  the  digestive 
organs  should  be  avoided ;  and,  unless 
the  strength  be  greatly  reduced,  water 
should  be  the  only  beverage. 

1 .  Toothache  Drops.  — Take  of  tincture 
of  opium,  two  fluid  drachms  ;  ether,  four 
fluid  drachms;   oil  of  cloves,   one-half 
fluid  drachm;  mix,  with  agitation,  and 
shake  it  each  time  before  use. 

2.  Take  of  creosote,  one  drachm ;  chlo- 
roform, two  drachms ;  alcohol,  three  fluid 
drachms ;  mix,  &c.,  as  the  last. 

A  little  cotton  saturated  with  either  of 
the  above  compounds,  and  placed  in  the 
cavity  of  the  decayed  tooth,  will  often 
produce  immediate  relief. 

Whooping-CougJi. — Dr.  Howard  Sar- 
gent, of  Boston,  states  that  for  eight  or 
ten  years  past  he  has  used,  as  a  remedy 
for  whooping-cough,  a  tea  made  from 
red-clover  blossoms.  He  remarks,  "  It  is 
so  simple  that  many  would  not  give  it  a 
seconi  thought.  I  can  say  with  truth 
that  I  never  knew  it  fail.  I  generally 
expect  a  cure  in  ten  days.  Four  years 
ago  I  had  children  in  three  families  sick 
at  the  same  time ;  they  were  all  well  in 
ten,  twelve,  or  fourteen  days.  There  is 
some  care  and  art  necessary  in  making 
the  tea.  I  select  and  cure  the  blossoms 
myself,  and  take  of  the  best  blossoms 
about  two  ounces  to  a  pint  of  boiling 
water,  steep  for  four  hours,  and  give  a 
wineglassful  occasionally  during  the  day. 
Should  it  operate  on  the  bowels,  no  harm 
is  done ;  the  dose,  in  that  case,  may  be 
diminished.  I  ask  physicians  to  try  it 
before  they  reject  it.  -I  sometimes  add  a 
little  honey  to  make  it  more  palatable." 

Piles.  —  Take  three  grains  sulphate 
of  morphine,  thirty  grains  extract  of 


584 


THE  PRACTICAL  HOUSEKEEPER, 


stramonium,  sixty  grains  carbonate  of 
lead,  one  teaspoonful  olive  oil,  and  three 
drachms  lard  cerate.  Rub  the  extract,  if 
not  uniformly  soft,  with  a  few  drops  of 
water ;  add  the  powders  and  olive  oil,  and 
rub  till  perfectly  smooth,  and  then  in- 
corporate them  with  the  cerate.  To  be 
applied  externally  as  occasion  may  re- 
quire. 

Itching  of  the  Anus.  —  Take  equal  parts 
citrine  ointment  and  simple  cerate,  and 
thoroughly  rub  together.  The  above 
compound  applied  to  the  part,  and  rubbed 
in,  is  very  efficacious  in  allaying  this 
troublesome  complaint.  It  should  be  at 
least  strong  enough  to  produce  some 
smarting,  and  the  application  continued 
until  the  itching  is  removed. 

Pin  Worms,  with  which  children  are 
so  often  troubled,  are  destroyed  and  pass 
from  the  bowels,  by  the  external  use  of 
diluted  citrine  ointment,  prepared  as 
above,  or  made  still  weaker  by  the  addi- 
tion of  more  cerate.  It  should  be  intro- 
duced an  inch  or  two  within  the  rectum, 
and  applied  gently  to  the  lining  mem- 
brane. 

A  Valuable  Liniment.  —  A  liniment 
which  we  have  found  most  serviceable  in 
the  family  and  in  the  stable  is  prepared 
as  follows : — 

Alcohol  (ninety-five  per  cent),  one 
quart.  Fluid  extract  of  arnica,  four 
fluid  ounces.  Camphor,  two  fluid  ounces. 
Stronger  aqua-ammonia,  one  fluid  ounce. 
Tinct.  opium,  one  fluid  ounce.  Water 
one  quart. 

Add  to  the  alcohol  the  arnica,  camphor 
ammonia,  and  tincture  of  opium ;  and 
after  the  camphor  is  dissolved,  the  water 
may  be  added.  This  liniment  may  be 
applied  for  the  relief  of  sprains,  bruises 
rheumatic  and  neuralgic  pains,  &c.,  with 
decided  advantage.  For  use  in  the  cow 
and  horse  stable,  it  will  be  found  mos 
efficient. 


SYRUPS  FOR  SODA  AND  MINERAL 
WATER. 

Sarsaparilla.  —  Take  of  simple  syrup- 
bur  pints  ;  compound  syrup  of  sarsapa- 
rilla,  four  fluid  ounces ;  caramel,  one  and 
i  half  fluid  ounces  ;  oil  of  wintergreen 
md  sassafras,  of  each,  six  drops. 

Lemon.  —  Grate  off*  the  yellow  rind  of 
emons,  and  beat  it  up  with  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  granulated  sugar.  Express 
he  lemon-juice;  add  to  each  pint  of 
uice  one  pint  of  water,  and  three  and  a 
lalf  pounds  of  granulated  sugar,  includ- 
ng  that  rubbed  up  with  the  rind  ;  warm 
until  the  sugar  is  dissolved,  and  strain. 

Another  recipe  for  lemon  syrup  is  as 
follows :  Dissolve  six  drachms  of  tartar- 
ic  acid  and  one  ounce  of  gum  arabic  in 
pieces,  in  one  gallon  of  simple  syrup  ; 
then  flavor  with  one  and  a  half  fluid 
drachms  of  best  oil  of  lemon,  or  flavor 
with  the  saturated  tincture  of  the  peel  in 
cologne  spirits. 

Orange.  —  This  may  be  made  from 
the  fruit  in  the  same  way  as  lemon  syrup, 
or  the  following  formula  may  be  used  : 
Dissolve  six  drachms  of  citric  acid  in  one 
gallon  of  simple  syrup,  and  add  two  fluid 
drachms  of  iresh  oil  of  orange  in  two 
ounces  of  alcohol;  or  instead  of  the 
alcohol  solution  of  the  oil,  use  the  satu- 
rated tincture  obtained  by  macerating 
the  fresh  peel  for  ten  days  in  sufficient 
cologne  spirits  to  cover. 

The  lemon  and  orange  syrups  made 
from  the  fruit,  after  being  strained,  may 
be  diluted  with  an  equal  bulk  of  simple 
syrup.  One  dozen  of  the  fruit  is  suffi- 
cient to  make  one  gallon  of  finished 
syrup. 

Ginger.  —  Mix  two  fluid  ounces  of 
tincture  of  ginger  with  four  pints  of  sim- 
ple syrup. 

Vanilla.  —  Mix  two  fluid  ounces  of 
extract  of  vanilla  with  four  pints  of  sim- 
ple syrup. 


MISCELLANEOUS   RECEIPTS. 


585 


Strawberry,  Raspberry,  or  Pine-apple.  — 
Mash  the  fresh  fruit,  express  the  juice, 
and  to  each  quart  add  three  and  a  half 
pounds  of  granulated  sugar.  The  juice, 
heated  to  180  degrees  Fahrenheit,  and 
strained  or  filtered  previous  to  dissolving 
the  sugar,  will  keep  for  an  indefinite 
time. 

Nectar.  —  Mix  three  parts  vanilla  syr- 
up with  one  each  of  pine-apple  and 
lemon  syrups. 

Sherbet.  —  Mix  equal  parts  of  orange, 
pine-apple  and  vanilla  syrups. 

Orgeat.  —  Cream  syrup  and  vanilla 
syrup,  each  one  pint;  oil  of  bitter  al- 
monds, four  minims. 

Cream.  — •  Take  of  Borden's  condensed 
milk,  one  pint ;  water,  one  pint ;  sugar 
one  and  a  half  pound.  Heat  to  boiling, 
and  strain.  This  will  keep  for  over  a 
week  in  a  cool  place. 

Coffee.  —  Pure  coffee,  roasted,  half  a 
pound,  is  infused  in  boiling  water,  half  a 
gallon ;  enough  is  filtered  off  to  make 
half  a  gallon  of  infusion,  in  which  dissolve 
seven  pounds  of  granulated  sugar. 

Chocolate.  —  Baker's  chocolate,  four 
ounces ;  dissolve  in  twenty  ounces  of 
boiling  water,  and  dissolve  in  this  one 
pound  of  granulated  sugar. 

Poisons  and  their  Antidotes.  —  In  all 
cases  of  poisoning,  much  depends  upon 
the  promptness  with  which  the  antidote 
is  administered.  The  appropriate  reme- 
dy for  acids  is  ralkalies,  and  vice  versa. 
If  lye  has  been  swallowed  for  water,  a 
mistake  often  made  by  children,  give 
at  once  a  wine  glassful  of  vinegar  added 
to  an  equal  quantity  of  water.  If  oxalic 
or  citric  or  tartaric  acid  have  been  taken, 
lose  no  time  in  administering  a  solution 
of  bi-carbonate  of  soda  or  saleratus,  — 
remedies  always  at  hand. 

If  the  poison  be  morphine,  narcotme, 
laudanum,  or  any  form  of  opium,  aconite 
or  other  powerful  narcotic,  a  physician 
should  be  immediately  called,  and  the 
stomach-pump  applied.  If  too  much 


time  is  likely  to  be  lost,  resort  at  once  to 
an  emetic,  of  which  most  families  have 
an  excellent  one  in  the  house  in  the  form 
of  ground  mustard-seed.  Of  this  give 
two  teaspoonfuls  stirred  into  a  tumbler 
of  warm  water,  for  an  adult,  reducing  the 
quantity  for  a  child,  and  repeat  every 
five  minutes  until  vomiting  is  pro- 
duced. 

If  corrosive  sublimate,  arsenic,  or  other 
mineral  poisons  have  been  taken,  the 
prompt  use  of  the  mustard  emetic,  or 
stomach-pump,  is  required.  White  of 
eggs  should  be  freely  taken  in  all  such 
cases,  as  a  good  medium  for  suspending 
the  poison,  and  thereby  saving  the  coats 
of  the  stomach.  Always  remembering 
that  no  time  is  to  be  lost  in  procuring 
attendance  of  the  family  physician.  Bear 
in  mind  that  bedbug  poison  is  generally 
made  of  corrosive  sublimate.  When 
used  at  all,  what  remains  should  be  im- 
mediately thrown  away.  It  is  never 
safe,  wherever  hid,  or  however  labelled. 
It  is  so  deadly  a  poison,  and  has  destroyed 
so  many  lives,  it  should  never  be  kept  in 
the  house. 

Drowning,  Restoration  from.  —  1.  Place 
the  patient  on  his  back,  with  the  shoul- 
ders raised  and  supported  on  a  folded 
article  of  dress. 

2.  In  order  to  keep  up  a  free  entrance 
jfair  into  the  lungs,  draw  the  tongue  for- 
ward, and  keep  it  projecting  out  of  the 
mouth  beyond  the  lips ;  it  may  be  held 
in  this  position  by  the  teeth  if  the  lower 
jaw  be  raised. 

3.  To  imitate  the  movements  of  breath- 
ing, raise  the  patient's  arms  upward  by 
the  sides  of  his  head,  and  then  extend 
them  gently  and    steadily  upward    and 
forward  for  a  few  moments.     (This  ac- 
tion induces  inspiration  or  the  passing  of 
air  into  the  lungs,  by  enlarging  the  ca- 
jacity  of  the  chest.) 

Next,  turn  down  the  arms,  and  press 
;hem  gently  and  firmly  for  a  few  mo- 
ments against  the  sides  of  the  chest. 


586 


THE  PRACTICAL  HOUSEKEEPER. 


(This  produces  a  forced  expulsion  of  air 
from  the  lungs.) 

Repeat  these  measures  alternately 
deliberately,  and  perseveringly,  fifteen 
times  in  a  minute. 

4.  To  induce  circulation  and  warmth,  do 
not  cease  rubbing  the  limbs  all  this  time 
upward,  with  firm,   grasping   pressure 
and  with  energy,  using  handkerchiefs, 
flannels,   &c.      (This    rubbing    upward 
causes  the  blood  in  the  veins  to  flow  to- 
ward the  heart,  and  should  be  done  by 
assistants.) 

5.  When  the  limbs  are  thus  warmed 
and  dried,  clothe  the  body,  —  the  by- 
standers supplying  the  garments. 

On  the  restoration  of  life,  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  warm  water  should  be  given ;  and 
then,  if  the  power  of  swallowing  has  re- 
turned, small  quantities  of  warm  coffee 
ginger-tea,  wine,  brandy,  and  warm 
water,  &c.,  may  be  given.  By  pursuing 
this  treatment  perseveringly  and  ener- 
getically for  several  hours,  many  persons 
have  been  resuscitated ;  it  is  a  mistaken 
opinion  that  death  has  occurred  because 
life  does  not  make  its  appearance  in  half 
an  hour  or  an  hour. 

Cautions  to  the  bystanders.  —  1.  Send 
at  once  for  a  physician,  and  for  dry 
clothing.  2.  Avoid  all  rough  usage,  and 
be  very  careful  not  to  turn  the  body  on 
the  back.  3.  Do  not  hold  up  the  body 
by  the  feet  for  any  reason.  4.  Do  not 
roll  the  body  on  barrels.  5.  Do  not  rub 
the  body  with  salt  or  spirits.  6.  Do 
not  inject  tobacco  smoke,  or  an  infusion, 
into  the  bowels.  7.  Avoid  the  continu- 
ous warm  bath.  8.  Be  especially  care- 
ful to  prevent  persons  crowding  around 
the  body. 

Apparent  Death  from  Intense  Cold.  — 
TREATMENT.  —  Be  careful  about  employ- 
ing warmth  too  soon,  as  its  too  quick  and 
free  application  will  undoubtedly  pro- 
duce mortification,  and  endanger  life. 


Rub  the  body  all  over,  at  first  with  snow 
or  very  cold  water,  continuing  this  for 
from  twenty  to  thirty  minutes,  or  until 
it  becomes  very  red ;  then  wipe  it  per- 
fectly dry,  and  let  it  be  rubbed  with  the 
warm  hands  of  several  persons  at  one 
time.  After  this  has  been  done  for  a 
short  time,  remove  the  body  to  a  cool 
room,  continuing  the  'friction,  and  then 
covering  with  hot  flannel.  To  restore 
breathing,  make  use  of  the  same  means 
as  recommended  in  "restoration  from 
drowning." 

Greek  Fire.  —  Modern  Greek  fire  is  a 
solution  of  phosphorus  in  bisulphide  of 
carbon.  When  this  solution  is  poured 
on  paper,  rags,  or  shavings,  the  bisul- 
phide evaporates  rapidly  and  leaves  the 
phosphorus  in  a  state  of  very  fine  divis- 
ion —  so  fine  that  it  takes  fire  spontane- 
ously. It  furnishes  the  means  of  per- 
forming a  very  pretty  lecture-room  ex- 
periment ;  but  as  an  incendiary  agent  it 
is  worthless,  for  the  simple  reason  that  it 
does  not  set  fire  to  even  the  thinnest  and 
driest  boards.  The  phosphorus,  in  burn- 
ing, produces  a  fusible  and  non-volatile 
compound,  and  this  glazes  over  all  ob- 
jects in  its  vicinity,  and  protects  them 
from  the  action  of  the  flames. 

To  collect  the  Odors  of  Flowers.  — 
Roses,  and  all  flowers  containing  per- 
fumed oils,  may  be  made  to  yield  their 
aromatic  properties  by  steeping  the  pet- 
als in  a  flat  dish  of  soft  water,  and  setting 
it  in  the  sun.  The  petals  should  be  en- 
tirely covered  with  the  water.  A  suffi- 
cient quantity  should  be  allowed  for  evap- 
oration, and  the  vessel  left  undisturbed 
a  few  days.  A  film  will  be  found  on  the 
top.  This  is  the  essential  oil,  and  every 
particle  is  impregnated  with  the  odor 
peculiar  to  the  flower.  Jt  should  be  taken 
up  carefully  and  put  in  tiny  vials,  which 
should  be  allowed  to  remain  open  till  all 
watery  particles  are  evaporated. 


INDEX. 


Accounts,  33. 

Accounts  should  be  regular,  IT. 

Acetic  acid,  549. 

Adulteration  of  Food,  78. 

Ague  and  Fever,  558. 

Airing  Rooms,  35. 

Alabaster,  to  clean,  574 

Ale  Posset,  513. 

Allspice,  130. 

Almack,  484 

Almond  Balls,  548. 

Almond  Bread,  467. 

Almond  Cake,  477. 

Almond  Perfume,  537. 

Almond  Paste,  432. 

Almond  Posset,  493. 

Almonds,  Syrup  of,  511. 

Almoud  Water,  524. 

American  "  Help,"  30. 

Anchovies,  Essence  of,  206. 

Anchovies,  Toast  of,  206. 

Anchovies,  with  Fried  Bread,  206. 

Anchovies,  to  know  good,  206. 

Anchovy  Sauce  for  Fish,  405. 

Angelica,  134. 

Animals,  Names  of  Joints  in,  116. 

Aperient  Electuary,  560. 

Aperient  for  Children,  563. 

Aperients,  Spring,  563. 

Aperient  Pills,  563. 

Aperient,  Infant's,  564. 

Apple  Bread,  469. 

Apple  Butter,  506. 

Apple  Charlotte,  445. 

Apple  Codlings,  to  pickle,  400. 

Apples,  to  Bake,  520. 

Apple  Cake,  for  Children,  528. 

Apple  Dumplings,  443. 

Apple  Fool,  493. 

Apple  Jelly,  502. 

Apple  Paste,  520. 

Apple  Souffle,  453. 

Apples,  Tapioca,  520. 

Apples,  Miroton  of,  449 

Apricot  Sweetmeat,  for  Tarts,  433. 

Apricot  Tart,  428. 

April,  Fish  in  Season  for,  150. 

April,  Fruits  in  Season  for,  150. 


April,  Meats  in  Season  for,  150. 

April,  Poultry  and  Game  in  Sea- 
son  for,  150. 

April,  Yegetables  In  Season  for, 
150. 

Ardent  Spirits  in  Sweden,  510. 

Arrangement  of  Dinner,  96. 

Arrow  Root,  185,  527. 

Arrowroot  Jelly,  524. 

Aromatic  Vinegar,  549. 

Art  of  Cookery,  124. 

Articles  for  Breakfast,  532. 

Articles  in  winter,  additional,  532. 

Articles  of  Silver  required  for  the 
Table,  24. 

Artificial  Coral  Branches  for  Grot- 
toes, 577. 

Articles  in  Season  for  each  Month, 
149. 

Artichokes,  899,  883. 

Artichokes,  Jerusalem,  884 

Asparagus,  880. 

Asparagus  Loaves,  381. 

Asparagus  Forced,  881. 

Asparagus  Peas,  381. 

Asparagus,  Garniture  for  Ome- 
lettes, 464 

Aspic  Jelly,  354 

Asses  Milk,  520. 

Asses  Milk,  Artificial,  520. 

August,  Fish  in  Season  for,  150. 

August,  Fruits  in  Season  for,  151. 

August,  Meats  in  Season  for,  151. 

August,  Poultry  and  Game  in  Sea- 
son for,  151. 

August,  Vegetables  in  Season  for, 
151. 

Auld  Man's  Milk,  514 


B 


Baba,  486. 

Bacon,  Garniture   for  Omelette, 

464. 

Bacon,  Broiled,  531. 
Bacon,  to  boil,  334 
Bacon,  to  broil,  834 
Bacon,  to  make,  834 
Bacon  and  Cabbage,  334 


Bacon,  to  Cure,  Cobbett's  Receipt, 

838. 
Bacon,  to  cure  for  Larding  and 

Braising,  834,  346. 
Bacon,  Malihe's  Method  of  Curing, 

845. 

Bacon,  Black  Pool  Receipt  for,  345. 
Bacon,  Wiltshire,  846. 
Bain  Marie,  83. 
Baking,  14L 
Baked  Apples,  442. 
Baked  Beans,  384 
Baked  Calf  s  Head,  293. 
Baked  Calf  s  Heart,  28a 
Baked  Eggs,  462. 
Baked  Fagots,  327. 
Baked  Ham,  331. 
Baked  Herring,  193. 
Baked  Marrowbones,  273. 
Baked  Milk,  520. 
Baked  Pears,  502,  523. 
Baked  Pig's  Head,  824 
Baked  Pike,  196. 
Baked  Salmon,  200. 
Baked  Shad,  195. 
Baked  Smelts,  197. 
Balloons,  from  Turkey's  Crops,57I 
Balm  Tea,  521. 
Banbury  Cake,  481. 
Bandoline,  552. 
Bandoline,  Rose,  558. 
Barberries,  132,  399. 
Barley  Water,  522. 
Basil,  132. 
Bath  of  Oil,  83. 

Batter  for  Fruit  Puddings,  449. 
Bay,  134,  538. 
Bay  Salt,  129. 

Beans,  a  la  maitre  d'  Hotel,  884, 
Beans,  Baked,  884. 
Beans,  French,  884 
Beans,  French,  Pickled,  895. 
Beans,  Lima,  884. 
Beans,  Stewed,  886. 
Beans,  White,  Puree  of,  886. 
Beans,  White  Haricot,  387. 
Bear's  Grease,  imitation,  545, 
Bedroom  Furniture,  22. 
Bedsteads,  22, 
Bedsteads,  to  clean,  89. 


588 


INDEX. 


Beef,  to  choose,  56. 

Beef,  249. 

Beef  Baked,  260. 

Beef,  Bath  Receipt,  264. 

Beef  Bot'.illi,  263. 

Beef  Bouillon,  253. 

Beef  Brains  a  la  Sauce  Piquante, 

260. 

Beef  Brains  Fried,  260. 
Beef,  Brisket  of,  Stewed, -253,  263. 
Beef,  Brisket,  to  carve,  109. 
Beef,  Broiling,  254. 
Beef  Broth,  2T3. 
Beef  Ribs,  to  carve,  108. 
Beef  Round,  to  carve,  108. 
Beef  a  la  Houssard,  266. 
Beef  Sirloin,  109. 
Boeuf  a  la  Mode,  264. 
Beef  a  la  Mode,  264,  266,  267. 
Beef  a  la  Polonaise.  265. 
Beef,  Cold,  273. 
Beef,  to  Corn,  842. 
Beef  Collops,  256,  269. 
Beef,  to  collar  Ribs  of,  250. 
Beef,  Croquettes  of,  271. 
Beef,  to  collar,  852. 
Beef,  to  collar,  Economical  way, 

352. 

Beef,  Curried,  278. 
Beef,  Dutch  way  to  salt,  842. 
Beef,  Dutch  Hung,  259. 
Beef  Entrees,  263. 
Beef  Essence,  518. 
Beef,  Family  Stew  of,  257. 
Beef,  Fillet  of,  Roasted,  251. 
Beef  to  taste  like  Hare,  251. 
Beef,  Fillets  of,  265. 
Beef  Fillets,  Braised,  265; 
Beef,  Fillet  of,  Saute,  270. 
Beef,  Fricasseed,  274. 
Beef  Fricandeau,  267,  274. 
Beef  Gravy,  220. 
Beef  Hashed,  256. 
Beef  Heart,  268. 
Beef,  Hunter's,  268. 
Beef,  Hune,  259,  343. 
Beef,  Jerked,  140. 
Beef,  Leg  of,  253. 
Beef,  in  a  Marinade,  265. 
Beef,  Minced  with  Cucumbers,268. 
Beef,  Minced,  271. 
Beef  Olives,  258. 
Beef  Palates,  256,  278. 
Beef,  a  Pickle  for,  258,  854. 
Beef,  Pickle  for,  a  la  Garrick,  274. 
Beef  Potted,  267,  349. 
Beef,  Potted  like  Venison,  849, 

351. 

Beef,  pressed,  274. 
Beef,  Rissoles,  275. 
Beef,  Round,  to  salt  or  corn,  854. 
Beef,  Rump  of,  251. 
Beef,  Salt,  remains  of,  278. 
Beef,  to  salt  red,  342. 
Beef,  to  Stew,  268,  252. 
Beef  Sausages,  267. 
Beef,  Sirloin,  Roasted,  250. 
Beef,  Sirloin,  to  dress  inside  of  251. 
Beef,  Spiced,  342,  274,  258. 
Beef  Steaks,  Broiled,  254. 
Beefsteaks,  a  la  Francaise,  255. 
Beef  Steaks,  a  la  Parisienne,  255. 
Beef  Steak  and  Onions,  255. 
Beef  Steaks  Rolled  and  Roasted, 

255. 

Beef  Steaks,  Stewed,  255. 
Beef  Stew,  252,  256. 
Beef,  Bump  Steak  Stewed,  259. 


Beef,  Rump  Steak,  Plain  Broiled, 

260. 

Beef  Steak,  a  la  Francaise,  265. 
Beef  Tongne,  to  Cure,  257. 
Beef  Tongue,  262. 
Beef  Tongues,  to  dress,  257. 
Beef  Tongue,  Larded,  257. 
Beef  Tongue,  to  stew,  262. 
Beef  Tongue,  to  prepare  to   eat 

cold,  262. 

Beef  Tongue,  to  Roast,  262. 
Beef  Tongue,  Fresh,  263. 
Beef  Tongue  and  Udder,  Fresh, 

263. 

Boeuf  Tremblant,  258. 
Beef  Tripe,  261. 
Beef  Tripe,  Lyons  Fashion,  269. 
Beef  Tea,  Liebigs,  518. 
Beer,  Spruce,  510. 
Beer,  Ginger,  510. 
Beets,  882,  387. 
Beets,  French  way,  387. 
Beignets,  459. 

Benzoin,  538.  J 

Bergalot,  538. 
Beverages,  510. 
Beverages    composed   partly   of 

Fermented  Liquors,  512. 
Bills  of  Fare,  532,  533,  534. 
Bills  of  Fare  for  Spring,  533. 
Bills  of  Fare  for  Summer,  533. 
Bills  of  Fare  for  Winter,  534. 
Birds,  Potted,  849. 
Birds,  to  bone,  356. 
Biscuits,  Damascus,  467. 
Biscuits,  Milk,  467. 
Biscuits,  Cinnamon,  480. 
Biscuits,  481. 
Biscuit,  glace,  490. 
Bishop,  512. 

Black  Crape,  to  restore,  568. 
Black  Balls,  570. 
Black  Dye,  579. 
Blackberry  Jam,  528. 
Blacking,  570. 

Black  Lace  Veils,  to  clean,  575. 
Black  Pool  Receipt  for  Bacon,  §45. 
Black  Stains,  to  remove  from  the 

Skin,  576. 
Black  Paper,  for  drawing  patterns, 

577. 

Blanching,  142. 
Blanc  mange,  523,  487. 
Blanc  mange,  Rice,  523. 
Blue  and  Green  Dye,  579. 
Blue  Ink,  571. 

Boarding  and  Housekeeping,  21. 
Boiling,  Operation  of,  81, 136. 
Boil  Bacon,  334. 
Boil  Cabbage,  388. 
Boil  Calf  s  Head,  282,  298. 
Boil  Chicken,  364, 
Boil  Cod,  190. 
Boil  Crabs,  207. 
Boil  Ducks,  369. 
Boil  Eggs,  460. 
Boil  Fillet  of  Veal,  277. 
Boil  Fowls,  361. 
Boil  Ham,  328.  829. 
Boil  Knuckle  of  Veal,  278. 
Boil  Leg  of  Lamb,  812. 
Boil  Leg  of  Lamb  with  Spinach, 

813. 

Boil  Leg  of  Mutton,  298. 
Boil  Leg  of  Pork,  320. 
Boil  Lobster,  204. 
Boil  Mackerel,  194 
Boil  Mutton  Ham,  880. 


Boil  Pickerel,  196. 

Boil  Pig's  Head,  326. 

Boil  Pork,  822. 

Boil  Salmon,  200. 

Boil  Sheepshead,  191. 

Boil  Turbot,  199. 

Boil  Turkey,  857. 

Bone  a  Quarter  of  Lamb,  814. 

Bone  Birds,  356. 

Boning,  143. 

Boorh;eve's    Sweet    Buttermilk. 

519. 

Books,  to  preserve,  577. 
Boots,  Waterproof,  577. 
Boston  Crearncakes,  484. 
Bottles  and  Decanters,  60. 
Bouquet  de  Caroline,  542. 
Bouquet  de  Flora,  542. 
Braising,  139. 

Braise  Breast  of  Lamb,  314. 
Braise  Chicken,  364. 
Braise  Fillet  of  Beef,  265. 
Braise  Fowls,  361. 
Braise  Ham,  332. 
Braise  Leg  of  Mutton,  298. 
Braise  Mutton  Cutlets,  301. 
Braise  Neck  of  Veal,  279. 
Braise  Shoulder  of  Lamb,  812  814 
Braise  Turkey,  358. 
Bran  Tea,  559. 
Brandy  Mixture,  522. 
Brass,  to  clean,  574. 
Brass  Ornaments,  to  preserve,  569. 
Brawn,  to  choose,  57. 
Brawn,  346. 

Brawns,  mock,  334,  846. 
Brawn,  to  keep,  Cambridge  way, 

Bread  Crumbs,  873. 

Bread,  Fried,  for  Garnishing,  878. 

Bread,  to  make,  464. 

Bread,  Brown  or  Dyspepsia,  465. 

Bread,  Rye  and  Indian,  465. 

Bread,  to  make  without  yeast,  465. 

Bread,  Rice,  466. 

Bread,  Almond,  467. 

Bread,  Apple,  469. 

Bread,  Diet,  480. 

Bread,  French,  482. 

Bread  and  Milk,  528. 

Breakfast  Articles,  532. 

Breakfast,  Dishes  for,  529. 

Breakfasts,  Serving  of,  94. 

Brick  Hearth,  to  black,  574. 

Bride  Cake,  476. 

Brioche  Paste,  409. 

Brioche  Rolls,  472. 

Broccoli  and  Battered  Eggs,  888. 

Broiled  Chicken,  for   Breakfast, 

530. 

Brisket  of  Beef,  253,  283. 
Broiling,  140. 
Broil  Beef,  254. 
Broil  Beef  Steaks,  254. 
Broil  Beef  Steaks,  a  la  Francaise. 

255. 
Broil  Beefsteaks,  a  la  Parisienne, 

Broil  Bones,  269. 
Broil  Chicken,  530. 
Broil  Fowls,  862. 
Broil  Mackerel,  194. 
Broil  Mushrooms,  388. 
Broil  Mutton  Chops,  300. 
Broil  Mutton  Kidneys,  805. 
Broil  Oysters,  209. 
Broil  Partridges,  871. 
Broil  Pigeons,  864. 


INDEX. 


589 


Broil  Rump  Steak,  260. 

Broil  Salmon,  201. 

Broil  Shad,  195. 

Broil  Smelts,  19T. 

Broth,  Calf  or  Lamb's  Feet,  518. 

Broth,  Chicken,  518. 

Broth,  that  will  keep,  518. 

Broth,  quick  made,  518. 

Brown  Coloring  for  made  dishes, 

249. 

Brown  thickening,  228. 
Bruise  or  Sprain,  565. 
Brushes,  26. 
Brushes,  to  clean,  57T. 
Bubble  and  Squeak,  260,  269, 
Buckwheat  Cakes,  468. 
Buckskin  Gloves,  to  clean,  5T1. 
Buns,  471. 

Burns,  to  relieve,  565. 
Butter,  to  clarify,  347,  473. 
Butter,  Pickle  for,  472. 
Butter,  to  cure  in  the  best  way, 

473. 

Butter,  salt,  to  freshen,  473. 
Butter,  to  make,  473. 
Butter,  to    preserve   for    winter 

use,  473. 
Butternuts,  Pickled,  399. 


Cabbage,  to  boil,  388. 

Cabbage,  Purple,  to  pickle,  396. 

Cabbage,  Eed,  to  pickle,  396. 

Cabbage,  White,  to  piakle,  396. 

Cakes,  473. 

Cake,  Almond,  477. 

Cake,  Banbury,  481. 

Cake,  Boston  Cream,  484. 

Cake,  Bride,  476. 

Cake,  Chocolate,  480. 

Cake,  Cider,  479. 

Cake,  Cocoanut,  477. 

Cake,  Cornstarch,  479. 

Cake,  Currant,  480. 

Cake,  Eletherian  Pineapple,  485. 

Cakes,  Frosting,  475. 

Cake,  German  Sugar,  476. 

Cake,  Gold  and  Silver,  481. 

Cake,  Honey,  477, 

Cake,  Housewife's  Christmas,  479. 

Cakes,  Icing  for,  480. 

Cake,  Indian  Corn,  478. 

Cake,  Jelly,  480. 

Cake,  Lady,  480. 

Cake,  Lemon,  480. 

Cake,  Love,  Bola  d'  Amour,  485. 

Cake,  New  England  Wedding,  475. 

Cake,  New  York  Cup,  478. 

Cake,  Nourmahal,  480. 

Cake,  Plain  Fruit.  477. 

Cake,  Plum,  475. 

Cake,  Pound,  478. 

Cake,  Queen,  477. 

Cake,  Queen  Victoria's,  485. 

Cake,  Railroad,  479. 

Cake,  Rice,  485. 

Cake,  Savoy.  477. 

Cake,  Seed,  480. 

Cake,  Short  and  Strawberry,  479. 

Cake,  Small  Plum,  476. 

Cake,  Soyer's  St.  James,  478. 

Cake,  Soyer's  Turban,  479. 

Cake,  Sponge,  477. 

Cake,  Sugar,  479. 

Cake,  Tipsy,  483. 

Cake,  Washington,  478. 


Cakes,  for  Children,  527. 

Calf's  Brains,  289. 

Calf's  Brains.  Croquettes  of,  289. 

Calf's  Ears,  Stuffed,  288. 

Calf's  Feet,  288. 

Calf's  Foot  Jelly,  491,  492. 

Calf's  Foot  Pudding,  524. 

Calf's  Head,  292. 

Calf's  Head  Baked,  293. 

Calf's  Head  Boiled,  282,  293. 

Calf's  Head  Cheese,  286. 

Calf 's  Head,  to  collar,  852. 

Calf  'a  Head  Curry,  283. 

Calf's  Head  Hashed,  293. 

Calf's  Head  Ragout,  282. 

Calf's  Head  a  la  Tortue,  293. 

Calf's  Heart,  290. 

Calf's  Heart,  Baked  288. 

Calf's  Liver,  285. 

Calf's  Liver,  Fried,  286. 

Calf's  Liver,  Stewed,  285. 

Calf's  Liver  and  Lights,  290. 

Camomile  Tea,  522. 

Camphor  Balls,  548. 

Camphor  Ice,  547. 

Camphor  Cake,  565. 

Camphor  Cerate,  548.       "; 

Candy  Fruit,  509. 

Candies,  Home  made,  576. 

Cane  Chair  Bottoms,  to  clean,  578. 

Capillaire,  512. 

Capon,  360. 

Caramel,  127. 

Care  of  the  Sick,  50. 

Carpets,  22. 

Carpet,  to  clean,  570. 

Carrots,  382. 

Carving,  107. 

Carving,  Beef,  Brisket  of,  109. 

Carving,  Beef,  Round  of,  108. 

Carving,  Beef,  Ribs  of,  108. 

Carving,  Beef.  Sirloin  of,  109. 

Carving,  Boiled  or  Roast  Turkey, 

113. 

Carving,  Breast  of  Veal,  109. 
Carving,  Fillet  of  Veal,  109. 
Carving,  Fowl,  Roast  and  Boiled, 

114. 
Carving,  Forequarter   of  Lamb, 

112. 

Carving,  Ham,  112. 
Carving,  Haunch  of  Mutton,  112. 
Carving,  Haunch  of  Venison,  112. 
Carving,  Knuckle  of  Veal,  109. 
Carving,  Leg  of  Mutton,  110. 
Carving,  Leg  of  Pork,  112. 
Carving,  Loin  of  Mutton,  111. 
Carving,  Loin  of  Veal,  109. 
Carving,  Neck  of  Mutton,  111. 
Carving,  Neck  of  Veal,  109. 
Carving,  Neck  of  Venison,  112. 
Carving,  Pheasant,  115. 
Carving,  Pigeons,  Il6. 
Carving,  Rabbit,  113. 
Carving,  Roast  Goose  115. 
Carving,  Roast  Pig,  113. 
Carving,  Saddle  of  Mutton,  111. 
Carving,  Scrag  of  Mutton,  111. 
Carving,  Shoulder  of  Mutton,  110. 
Carving,  Shoulder  of  Veal,  110. 
Carving,  Tongue,  112. 
Carving,  Wild  Birds,  115. 
Casserole,  127. 
Cassolettes,  551. 
Casks,  to  sweeten,  569. 
Cassia,  181. 
Cauliflower,  382. 
Cauliflower  Pickle,  396. 


Caudle,  519. 

Caudle,  Flour,  519. 

Caudle,  York,  519. 

Cayenne  Pepper,  406. 

Cayenne,  180. 

Celery,  132. 

Celery,  to  stew,  383. 

Celery,  Pickled,  396. 

Cement,  for  Corked  Bottles,  578. 

Cement  of  Lime,  568. 

Cement,  Lime  and  Egg,  71. 

Cement,  Mastic,  72 

Cement,  Red,  71. 

Cements,  Use  of,  69. 

Cements,  Waterproof,  71. 

Cera,  Fortifant,  565. 

Cervelle  de    Veau  au  Marinade, 

289. 
Cervelle  de  Veau  a  la  Maitre  d' 

Hotel,  291. 

Charcoal,  Danger  of,  87. 
Charcoal,  Deaths  by,  88. 
Chartreuse  of  Apples  and  Rico, 

449. 

Charlotte  Russe,  488. 
Charlotte,  Strawberry,  489. 
Champagne,  Pink,  517. 
Champagne,    Grape,    to  equal 

Foreign,  517. 
Cheese,  454. 
Cheese,  to  make,  454. 
Cheese,  at  Dinner,  100. 
Cheese,  Cream,  454. 
Cheese,  Cream,  Plain  Family  way, 

456. 

Cheese,  Cottage,  454. 
Cheese,  Eggs  and,  455. 
Cheese,  for  Fondeau,  455. 
Cheese,  Italian,  525. 
Cheese,  a  L'  Italienne,  455. 
Cheese,  Puffs,  454. 
Cheese,  Sage,  454. 
Cheese,  Souffle,  455. 
Cheese,  Stewed,  456. 
Cheese,  Potato,  435. 
Cheese,  Potted,  456. 
Cheese,  Pudding,  456. 
Cheesecakes,  434,  485. 
Cheesecakes,  Almond,  434,  486. 
Cheesecakes,  Apple,  486. 
Cheesecakes,  Bread,  486. 
Cheesecakes,  Citron,  486. 
Cheesecakes,  Lemon,  434,  486. 
Cheesecakes,  Miss  Bratty's,  434. 
Cheesecakes,  Orange,  434. 
Cheesecakes,  Soyer's,  435. 
Cheesecake,  Stock,  435. 
Cherries,  to  dry,  503. 
Cherry  Bounce,  514. 
Chetney,  135. 

Chicken  and  Ham  Potted,  349. 
Chicken  Salad,  390. 
Chicken  Jelly,  520. 
Chickens,  Boiled,  364. 
Chickens,  Braised,  864. 
Chickens,  Curried,  364,  367. 
Chickens,    Fried,  a    la  Malabaz 

864. 

Chickens,  Pulled,  364. 
Chickenpox,  562. 
Chilblains,  563. 
Children,  Cooking  for,  526. 
Children's  Diet  for  the  day,  529. 
Children,  Management  of,  48. 
Children,  Meats  for,  529. 
Children,  Training  of,  519. 
China,  24. 
Chlorine,  Mode  of  Liberating,  90 


590 


INDEX. 


Chocolate,  49T. 

Chocolate,  Cake,  480. 

Chocolate  Drops,  498. 

Chopping,  73. 

Cinnamon,  131. 

Citron,  542. 

Citronella,  542. 

Clarify  Meat  Jelly,  858. 

Clan-,  132. 

Cleanliness,  Importance  of,  47. 

Cleaning  Bottles,  60. 

Clean  Brushes,  577. 

Clean  Decanters,  578. 

Clean  Feather  Beds,  578. 

Clean  Floors,  88. 

Clean' Freestone,  574. 

Clean  German  Silver,  570. 

Clean  Gloves,  572. 

Clean  Ironwork,  88. 

Clean  Japanned  Goods,  89. 

Clean  Japanned  Waiters,  574. 

Clean  Kettles  and  Saucepans,  576. 

Clean  Kid  Gloves,  569. 

Clean  Knives,  89. 

Clean  Marble,  570. 

Clean  Mattresses,  578. 

Clean  Paint,  89. 

Clean  Papered  Walls,  578. 

Clean  Silk,  570. 

Clean  Silver,  572. 

Clean  Steel  Forks,  89. 

Clean  Tin  Covers,  571. 

Clean  Wainscots,  576. 

Cloth,  to  take  Spots  out  of,  569. 

Cloves,  130,  542. 

Clouted  Cream,  488. 

Clothesballs,  575. 

Cocoamit  Cake,  477. 

Cocoa,  497,  522. 

Cocoa  Shells  or  Nibs,  497. 

Coffee,  494,  495. 

Coffee,  to  roast,  495. 

Coffeemaker,  Patent,  495. 

Cold  Cream,  Almond,  547. 

Cold  Cream,  Eose,  547. 

Cold  Cream,  Violet,  547. 

Ccelus  Apicius,  125. 

Cold  Cream,  549. 

Collar  Breast  of  Mutton,  358. 

Collar  Breast  of  Veal,  353. 

Collar  Eels,  351. 

Collar  Fowls,  362. 

Collar  Ox  Cheek,  853. 

Collar  a  Pig,  353. 

Collar  Pig's  Head,  324,  353. 

Collar  Ribs  of  Beef,  250. 

Collar  Salmon,  202. 

Collodion,  565. 

Collodion,  Blistering,  565. 

Collodion,  Toothache,  565. 

Coloring  for  Jellies,  502. 

Colored  Things,  to  wash,  571. 

Color  of  Dresses,    to    preserve, 

572. 

Compotes  of  Fruit,  505. 
Compound  Oders,  542. 
Condiments,  129. 
Consideration  of  Dinner,  86. 
Consomme,  127. 
Contrivance  for  Filtering,  574. 
Composition  for  the  Skin,  548. 
Cooking,  French.  139. 
Cookery  for  the  Sick,  51T. 
Cooking  Stoves,  85. 
Cookery,  Art  of,  124. 
Cookery,  Rudiments  o£  186. 
Coral  Branches,  577. 
Corking,  60. 


Corn,  Green,  Fritters,  885. 

Corn,  Creen,  Omelet,  885. 

Corn,  Green,  Pudding,  385. 

Corn,  Sweet,  885. 

Cottage  Cheese,  454 

Cottager's  Stove,  85. 

Country  Syllabub,  491. 

Cosmetic  Gloves,  546. 

Cough,  564. 

Coulis,  127. 

Court  Nosegay,  542. 

Court  Plaster,  565. 

Cow  Heels,  263. 

Cow  Heels,  to  fry,  267,  264. 

Cow  Heels  to  pot,  264 

Crabs,  206. 

Crabs,  Boiled,  207. 

Crabs,  Minced,  208. 

Craks,  Soft  Shelled,  208. 

Crab  Soup,  207. 

Crabs,  Stewed,  207. 

Cracknels,  482. 

Cracknels,  Isle  of  Wight,  482. 

Cranberries,  to  prepare  for  Tarts, 

432. 

Cranberry  Sauce,  507. 
Crayfish  Soup,  207. 
Crayfish  Butter,  208. 
Crayfish  Stewed,  207. 
Cream  of  Tartar  Water,  523. 
Cream  Champagne,  487. 
Cream  Cheese,  454. 
Cream,  Clouted,  488. 
Cream,  Italian,  488. 
Crema,  Leche,  488. 
Cream,  Mock,  490. 
Creme  Frites  aux  Amandes,  458. 
Cr6pes,  457. 

Crickets,  to  destroy,  567. 
Croquettes,  127. 
Croup,  562. 
Croustades,  127. 
Crumpets,  468. 
Cullis,  275. 
Cup  Cake,  478. 

Cure  of  Intemperate  Habits,  566. 
Cure    Bacon,  Cobbett's  Receipt, 

sas. 

Cure  Bacon  for  Larding  and  Brais- 
ing, 384,  846. 

Cure  Bacon,  Maline's  Method, 
345. 

Cure  Beef,  Corned,  342. 

Cure  Beef  Tongue,  257. 

Cure  Hams,  329,  331,  343,  344. 

Cure  Hog's  Cheeks,  846. 

Cure  Mutton  Ham,  345, 

Cure  Tongues,  343. 

Curing,  341. 

Curling  Hair  Fluid,  553. 

Currants,  Ripe,  528. 

Currant  Jelly,  502. 

Curry,  Calf  s  Head,  283. 

Curry,  Chicken,  364,  367. 

Curry,  Custard,  525. 

Curry,  Kitchener's,  221. 

Curry,  Plain,  221. 

Curry  Powders,  221. 

Curry  Powder,  Delhi,  221. 

Curry,  Soyer's,  236. 

Custard,  Arrowroot,  487. 

Custard,  Boiled,  487. 

Custard,  Coffee,  487. 

Custard,  Cocoanut,  431. 

Custard,  Cream  of  Chocolate,  487. 

Custard,  French  Mode,  487. 

Culinary  Utensils,  116. 

Curtains,  22. 


Cucumbers,  to  pickle,  894 
Cut,  to  heal,  565. 
Cutlets,  a  la  Victime,  337. 
Cutlery,  24    r 
Cutting  Glass,  63. 


Daily  Routine  of  Work,  42. 
Dandelion  and  Parsley  Tea,  523. 
Doubing,  142. 

December,  Fish  in  Season  for,  152. 
December,  Fruits  in  Season  for. 

152. 
December,  Meats  in  Season  for, 

152. 
December,  Poultry  and  Game  in 

Season  for,  152. 
December,  Vegetables  in  Season 

for,  152. 

Deaths  by  Burning  Charcoal,  88. 
Decanters,  to  clean,  578. 
Decanting  Liquids,  65. 
Dejeuners  a  la  Fourchettes,  94 
Depilatories,  555. 
Dessert,  41. 
Desserts,  102. 
Detergent  Gargle,  557. 
Development  of  the  Lungs,  559. 
Devils  of  Biscuits,  531. 
Devil,  Dry,  531. 
Devilled  Game,  531. 
Devil,  Wet,  531, 
Devonshire  Junket,  491r 
Diet,  Children's  for  the  Day,  529. 
Diet  Bread,  480. 
Digester,  Saucepan,  123. 
Dinners,  Arrangement  of,  96. 
Dinner,  Consideration  of,  36. 
Dinner  Entrees,  100. 
Direction  of  the  Table,  37. 
Disinfecting,  89. 
Distillation,  92. 
Distilling  Spirits,  510. 
Domestic  Education  <&  Thoughts 
on— 16. 

Domestic  Affairs,  Skill  in,  re- 
quisite, 15. 

Domestic  Education,  should 
be  complete,  17. 

Duties  to  Children,  46. 

Early  Rising,  an  advantage, 
42. 

Household  Knowledge  essen- 
tial to  a  Lady,  42. 

Influence  of  Women,  17. 

Late    Hours     destructive   to 
Health,  49. 

Plan  and  Order  necessary,  44 

Province  of  Woman,  ]8. 

Rights  and  "  Mission  "  of  Wo- 
man, 16. 

Domestic  Manipulation,  59, 
Doomsday  Book,  125. 
Doughnuts,  483. 
Draught  for    Palpitation    of  the 

Heart,  557. 
Draught  for    Hysteric    Patients, 

559. 

Drawing-Room  Furniture,  22. 
Dredgings,  139. 

Dresses,  Color  of,  to  preserve,  572. 
Dripping,  139. 
Dried  Salmon,  530. 
Drunkenness  in  France,  510. 
Drying  Bottles,  &c.,  60. 
Dry  Measures.  124 


INDEX. 


591 


Ducks,  boiled,  369. 

Ducks.  Canvas-back,  370. 

Ducks,  roasted,  369. 

Ducks,  Stewed  with  Claret,  869. 

Ducks  and  Peas,  Stewed,  370. 

Duckling  with  Turnips,  370. 

Ducks,  Wild,  or  Teal,  370. 

Dumpokht,  367. 

Duties  of  each  Day,  44 

Duties  of  the  Mistress,  31. 

Dwelling  House,  the,  19. 

Dye,  Black,  579. 

Dye,  Blue  and  Green.  579. 

Dyes,    Common    Eeceipts    for, 

579. 

Dye,  Red,  580. 
Dye,  Slate  colored,  531. 
Dye,  Yellow,  580. 


E 

Eau  de  Bouquet  de  Flore,  544 

Eau  de  Chypre,  543,  544. 

Eau  de  Cologne,  544. 

Eau  d'  Ambre  Eoyale,  544. 

Eau  d1  Elegance,  544. 

Eau  Jaune  a  1'  Amaryllis,  544 

Eau  de  Javelle,  555. 

Eau  de  Miel,  544. 

Eau  de  vie  Lavande,  543. 

Earache.  564. 

Economy  of  Heat,  84 

Eels  a  la  Tartare,  203. 

Eels,  bread  crumbed,  203. 

Eels,  collared,  202. 

Eels,  fried,  203. 

Eel  Pie,  203. 

Eels,  spitchcocked,  208. 

Eels,  stewed,  203. 

Eggs,  459. 

Eggs,  au  Beurre,  532. 

Egg  Biscuit,  469. 

Eggs  and  Cheese,  555. 

Eggs,  to  boil,  460. 

Eggs  with  burnt  butter,  463. 

Eggs,  fried,  462. 

Egg  Flip,  513. 

Egg  Hot,  513. 

Eggs,  for  Turtle,  247. 

Eggs  in  cases,  463. 

Eggs,  to  keep,  578. 

Eggs,  to  keep  for  winter,  459. 

Eggnogg,  514. 

Egg  Plant,  381. 

Eggs,  to  poach,  460. 

Eggs,  plain  baked,  462. 

Eggs,  pretty  dish  of,  463. 

Eggs,  Eandalled,  462. 

Egg  Sauce,  215. 

Egg  scrambled,  532. 

Egg  Snow,  463. 

Eggs  and  Vegetables,  463. 

Elder  Flower  Ointment,  562. 

Elder  Flower  Tea,  522. 

Electuary  for  Scorbutic  Eruptions, 

Empress  Eugenie's  Nosegay,  548. 

Entrees  at  Dinner,  100. 

Ervsipelas.  558. 

Essence  of  White  Lilac,  537. 

Essence  of  Beef,  518. 

Essentia  Odorifera,  543. 

Evening  Parties,  41. 

Extract  d'  Ambre,  539. 

Eyes,  Inflammation  of,  to  relieve, 


Family  Medical  Guide,  556. 

Fancy  Pastry,  426. 

Farces  and  Stuffings,  248. 

Farce  Cnite,  245. 

Farce,  Harn  and  Veal,  245. 

Farce  of  Veal  or  Fowl,  247. 

Farce,  Panada,  243. 

Farce,  Panada,  for  Fish,  &c.,  244 

Farce,  Quenelle,  244 

Farce,  Udder,  244. 

Fawn  or  Kid,  to  dress,  375. 

Featherbeds,  to  clean,  578. 

February,  Fish  in  Season  for,  149. 

February,  Fruits  in  Season  for, 

149. 
February,  Meats  in   Season  for, 

149. 
February,  Poultry  and  Game  in 

Season  for,  149. 
February,  Vegetables  in  Season 

for,  149. 

Feeding  Children,  47. 
Fermenting,  91. 
Fever  and  Ague,  558. 
Fever  Draught,  559. 
Filtering  contrivance,  574. 
Filtering  Liquids,  68. 
First  Course  at  Dinner,  99. 
First  Watch  Stew,  276. 
Fish,  for  April,  May,  June,  July, 

and  August,  150. 
Fish  Cake,  191. 
Fish,  Carp,  stewed,  196. 
Fish,  Casserole,  211. 
Fish,  to  choose,  59. 
Fish,  Cod,  boiled,  190. 
Fish,  Cod,  with  Oyster  Sauce,  190. 
Fish,  Cod,  au  Gratin,  190. 
Fish,  Cod  Omelette,  191. 
Fish,  Cod  Sounds,  Ragout  of,  190. 
Fish,  Cod,  slices  of,  191. 
Fish,  Cold,  to  dress,  211. 
Fish  Cutlets,  213. 
Fish  for  December,  152. 
Fish,  Forcemeat,  245. 
Fish,  Fricandelles  of,  213. 
Fish,  Haddock,  192. 
Fish,  Haddock,  dried,  192. 
Fish,  Haddock,  dressed,  192. 
Fish,  Haddock,  baked,  192. 
Fish,  Halibut,  191. 
Fish,  Halibut,  stewed,  191. 
Fish,  Halibut,  colloped,  192. 
Fish,  Halibut  a  la  Creme,  192. 
Fish,  Herrings,  193. 
Fish,  Herrings,  fresh,  baked,  193. 
Fish,  Herrings,  potted,  193. 
Fish  for  January,  February,  and 

March,  149. 

Fish,  Mackerel,  stewed,  193. 
Fish,  Mackerel,  boiled,  194 
Fish.  Mackerel,  broiled,  194 
Fish  with  Marinade,  189. 
Fish,  Matelote  of,  213. 
Fish,  Pickerel,  boiled,  196. 
Fish,  Pike,  roasted,  195. 
Fish,  Pike,  baked,  196. 
Fish,  Salmon,  crimped  a  la  Creme, 

199. 

Fish,  Salmon,  au  naturel,  200. 
Fish,  Salmon,  baked,  200. 
Fish,  Salmon,  boiled,  200. 
Fish,  Salmon,  broiled,  201. 
Fish,  Salmon,  collared,  202. 
Fish,  Salmon,  dried,  201. 
Fish  Pat6,  212. 


Fish,  Pickled,  201. 
Fish,  Potted,  202. 
Fish,  Ragout  of,  214. 
Fish,  to  serve,  107. 
Fish,  Shad,  roasted,  194 
Fish,  Shad,  preserved,  195. 
Fish,  Shad,  broiled,  195. 
Fish,  Shad,  baked,  195. 
Fish  for  September,  October,  No- 
vember, 151. 

Fish,  Sheepshead,  boiled,  191. 
Fish,  Shrimps,  197. 
Fish,  Smelts,  fried,  196. 
Fish,  Smelts,  broiled,  197. 
Fish,  Smelts,  baked,  197. 
Fish,  Soles,  fried,  196. 
Fish,    Stewed,    Hebrew   fashion, 

214 

Fish,  Sturgeon  Cutlets,  197. 
Fish,  Sturgeon,  stewed,  197. 
Fish,  Sturgeon,  cheaply  cooked, 

197. 

Fish,  Trout,  roasted,  195. 
Fish,  Trout,  fried,  195. 
Fish,  Trout,  in  the  foreign  mode, 

198. 

Fish,  Trout,  &  la  Genevoise,  198. 
Fish,  Trout,  a  laPrincesse  Royale, 

198. 
Fish,  Trout,  a   la  Twickenham, 

198. 

Fish,  Trout,  stewed,  199. 
Fish,  Turbot,  boiled,  199. 
Fish,  Turbot,  a  la  Creme,  199. 
Fish,  Vol-au-vent  of,  214 
Flannel  Cakes,  469. 
Flax  Seed  Lemonade,  522. 
Fleur  d'  Italie,  543. 
Floating  Island,  489. 
Floors,  to  clean,  88. 
Fondeaux,  455. 
Food,  Adulteration  of,  78. 
Food  and  Cookery  for  Children, 

526. 

Forcemeat,  244,  245. 
Forcemeat,  another,  244. 
Forcemeats,  &c.,  248. 
Forcemeat  Balls  for  Soup  Maigre, 

246. 

Forcemeat  Ingredients,  248. 
Forcemeat  for  Hare  or  any  thing 

in  imitation  of  it,  245. 
Forcemeat,  Oyster,  246. 
Forcemeat  for  Turtle,  246. 
Forcemeat,  340. 
Forcemeat  to  make  Quenelles  of, 

841. 

Forcemeat,  Panada  for,  341. 
Forcemeat  Stuffing  for  Veal,  341. 
Forcemeat  Stuffing  for  Hare  or 

Turkey,  341. 

Foreign  Terms,  glossary  of,  126. 
Fowls,  &  la  Bechamel,  366. 
Fowls,  boiled  or  roast,  to  carva 

114 

Fowls,  boiled,  361. 
Fowls,  braised,  861. 
Fowls,  broiled,  862. 
Fowls,  forced,  360. 
Fowls,  fried,  362. 
Fowls,  fricassee  of,  882. 
Fowls,  Guinea,  366. 
Fowl,  hashed,  361. 
Fowl,  Indian  pilau  of,  366. 
Fowls,  Pea,  366. 
Fowls,  Pilau  of,  362. 
Fowls,  Poele,  to  boil  in,  860. 
Fowls,  a  la  Provengale,  360. 


592 


INDEX. 


Fowls,  Poele,  for,  863. 

Fowls,  Roast,  861. 

Fowls,  Eissoles  of,  363. 

Frangipane,  482. 

Freestone,  to  clean,  574. 

French  Bread,  482. 

French  Beans,  pickled,  396. 

French  Cooking,  189. 

French  Pap,  527. 

Fricandelles  of  Fish,  213 

Fritadella,  336. 

Fritters,  458. 

Fritters,  Plain,  458. 

Fritters,  Apple,  458. 

Fritters,  French,  458. 

Fritters,  Potato,  458. 

Fritters,  Curd,  459. 

Fritters,  Orange  and  Sweetmeat, 
459. 

Frontignac,  516. 

Frosted  Fruit,  502. 

Frosting  Cakes,  475. 

Frozen  Pudding,  493. 

Fruit  Cake,  477. 

Fruits  for  April,  May,  June,  July, 
150. 

Fruits  for  August,  September,  Oc- 
tober, November,  151. 

Fruits  to  candy,  509. 

Fruits  for  December,  152. 

Fruits   for   January,    February, 
March,  149. 

Fruits,  to  keep  fresh,  578. 

Fruit  for  Children,  528. 

Frying,  141. 

Fry  Calf s  Liver,  286. 

Fry  Chickens  a  la  Malabar,  364. 

Fry  Cowheels,  264,  267. 

Fry  Eggs,  462. 

Fry  Fowls,  362. 

Fry  Ham  and  Eggs,  330. 

Fry  Mutton  Chops,  300. 

Fry  Pig's  Feet  and  Ears,  327. 

Fry  Potatoes,  377. 

Fry  Ramequins,  455. 

Fry  Smelts,  196. 

Fry  Soles,  196. 

Fry  Sweetbreads,  290. 

Fry  Trout,  198. 

Fry  Veal,  Liver,  and  Bacon,  289. 

Fry  Venison,  374. 

Fumigating  Paper,  558. 

Furnishing  a  House,  21. 

Furniture,  Bedroom,  22. 

Furniture,  Drawing-room,  22. 

Furniture,  Kitchen,  23. 

Furniture,  Nursery,  46. 


Galette,  482. 

Game,  all  kinds  of  potted,  350. 

Game  Course,  100. 

Gants  Cosmetiques   au  Bouquet, 

546. 

Garlic,  Pickle,  394 
Garnishes,  248. 
Gas,  Heating  vessels  by,  86. 
Gauffres,  429. 

German  Silver,  to  clean,  570. 
Geranium,  538. 
Gherkins  and  Kidney  Beans,  to 

pickle,  399. 
Gherkins,  132. 

Gigot  de  Mouton  sacrifie,  525. 
Ginger,  130. 
Gingerbread,  482. 


Gingerbread,  Hard,  488. 

Gingerbread,  Soft,  482. 

Gingernuts,  483. 

Ginger  Wafers,  478. 

Glaize,  524. 

Glasse,  Mrs.,  Recipe,  18. 

Glass,  24. 

Glass  Cutting,  63. 

Glass  Grinding,  63. 

Glass  Vessels,  labelling  of,  65. 

Glass,  Writing  on,  63. 

Glaze,  128. 

Glazing,  140,  142. 

Glazing  for  Tarts,  426. 

Glossary    of   Foreign    terms    in 

cookery,  126. 
Gloves,  to  clean,  569,  571. 
Gloves,  Cosmetic,  541,  546. 
Glue,  70. 
Godiveaux,  129. 
Glycerine  Balsam,  549. 
Gooseberry  Fool,  492. 
Goose,  Roasted,  368. 
Goose,  to  carve,  115. 
Goose,  Marbled,  368. 
Goose,  Preserved,  368. 
Goulard  Lotion,  559. 
Grapes,  to  pickle,  899. 
Grease,  to  extract  from  silk,  570. 
Grease  Spots,  to  take  out,  570. 
Green  Peas,  880. 
Green  Corn  Fritters,  385. 
Green  Corn  Omelet,  885. 
Green  Corn  Pudding,  385. 
Griddle  Cakes,  Indian,  469. 
Grillades,  529. 
Grinding  Glass,  63. 
Ground  Rice  Milk,  522. 
Ground  Rice  Paste,  524. 
Ground  Rice  Pudding,  524. 
Grouse,  872. 
Guards'  Bouquet,  543. 
Gumbo,  386. 


Hair  Curling  Fluid,  553. 

Hair  Dyes,  554. 

Hair  Wash,  553. 

Hair  Water,  552. 

Hams,  329. 

Ham,  to  bake,  381. 

Hams,  boiled,  328. 

Hams,  to  boil,  329. 

Ham,  to  boil  in  a  superior  way,  828. 

Ham,  to  braise,  832. 

Ham,  to  braise  in  a  French  fash- 
ion, 332. 

Ham  Cake,  351. 

Ham,  to  carve,  112. 

Ham,  cold,  Soyer's,  355. 

Ham,  to  cook,  828. 

Hams,  to  cure,  329,  831,  343,  844, 

Ham  and  Eggs,  fried,  330. 

Ham,  fried  with  Poached  Eggs, 
330. 

Ham,  Fitzimmon  Receipt  for  cur- 
ing, 344. 

Ham  Gravy,  830. 

Ham,' Goose,  345. 

Hams,  to  keep,  56. 

Ham,  Mutton,  to  boil,  830. 

Ham,  Mutton,  to  cure,  845. 

Ham,  to  make  superior  to  West- 
phalia, 344. 

Ham,    Practical    Housewife's 
Christmas,  829. 


Ham,  Rashers  or  Slices,  883. 
Ham,  to  roast,  330. 
Ham,  Westphalia,  344. 
Harlequinade  in  Cookery,  126. 
Hands,  to  whiten,  549. 
Harnessmaker's  Jet,  573. 
Hare,  Jugged,  373. 
Hare,  Potted,  349. 
Hare,  Roasted,  372. 
Haricot  Roots,  387. 
Harness,  to  color,  569. 
Hashballs,  257. 
Hasty  Pudding,  442. 
Heartburn,  Mixture  for,  561. 
Heating  by  Gas,  86. 
Heat,  Economy  of,  84. 
Heliotrope,  538. 
Heliotrope,  Extract  of,  539. 
Hedgehog,  445. 
Herrings,  to  pickle,  354. 
Hints  and  Maxims,  143. 
Hog's  Cheeks,  to  cure,  346. 
Hog's  Lard,  328. 
Hominy,  453. 

Home  and  Housekeeping,  16. 
Absolute  Rule  of  a  Mistress. 

31. 
Care  in  Accounts  necessary 

83. 

Care  of  the  Sick,  50. 
Choice  and  Arrangement  of 

Dinner  Company,  88. 
Duties  of  each  day,  42. 
Feeding  Children,  47. 
Fundamental  Principles,  33. 
Good  Wages  the  best  policy, 

32. 
Home,  little    Attachment  ol 

Americans  to,  15. 
Home  Duties,  little  thought 
of  in  Female  Education, 
15. 
Home,  ruled  by    a  Sensible 

Woman,  16. 
Home,  a  place  of  Refuge  and 

Rest,  16. 
Housewifery   may  be  Ultra, 

16. 

Importance  of  Cleanliness,  52. 
Importance  of  Health,  34. 
Important  Responsibility  of  a 

Housekeeper,  16. 
Income  and  Marriage,  18. 
Management  of  Children,  48. 
Social  Evenings,  4h 
The  Nursery,  4'6, 
Thoughts  on,  16. 
Housekeeping — 

Acetous  Fermentation,  92. 
Adulterated  Articles,  78. 
A  Dwelling  in  Town,  19. 
Agreement  with  the    Land- 
lord. 19. 

A  Useful  Art,  15. 
Bargain  Hunting  Perilous,  33. 
Bed-room  Furniture,  22. 
Bedsteads  and  Bed  curtains, 

22. 

Boarding,  21. 

Brushes  used  for  cleaning,  25. 
Breathing   Chlorine  not    In- 
jurious, 91. 
Calculation    of  Income    and 

Outgoings,  17. 
Carpets,  22. 

Chloride  of  Lime  a  Disinfect- 
ing agent,  20. 
Chloride  of  Soda,  20. 


INDEX. 


593 


Housekeeping— 

Change  of  Air  required  con- 
tinually, 20. 

Cleaning,  Drying,  and  Cork- 
ing Bottles,  60. 

Coffee  Making  in  Turkey,  79. 

Covering  the  Table,  37. 

Cutting," Grinding,  and  Writ- 
ing on  Glass,  63. 

Cutlery,  Crockery,  China,  &c., 
24 

Compulsory  Present-Giving, 
80. 

Decanting,  Straining,  and  Fil- 
tering of  Liquids,  65. 

Desserts,  Teas  and  Suppers, 
102. 

Dessert,  39. 

Disinfecting  Operations,  89. 

Difficulty  of  procuring  and 
retaining  good  Servants, 
26. 

Dining-room  Furniture,  22. 

Drawing-room  Furniture,  22. 

Dividing,  Powdering,  Grind- 
ing, &c.,  72. 

Domestic  Use  of  Gas  in  Heat- 
ing, 86. 

Expenses  of  a  Servant,  26. 

Faraday's  Use  of  Chlorine,  91. 

Fumigation  and  Disinfection, 
20. 

Furnishing  a  House,  21. 

Gratuities  to  Servants,  29. 

Hall  Furniture,  21. 

Hard  Water  in  Washing,  81. 

Hedgehog,  446. 

Herbs  for  Distilling,  93. 

Hiring  Servants,  26. 

Household  Linen,  25. 

Household  of  a  British  Noble- 
man, 27. 

Household  Expenditure,  17. 

House  Rent,  21. 

Impositions  in  Hotels,  29. 

Insult  to  the  name  of  Hospi- 
tality, 29. 

Irish  and  German  Servants,  26, 

Kitchen  Furniture,  23. 

Labelling  of  Glass  Vessels,  65. 

Ladies'  Packages,  74. 

Lighting  of  Apartments,  23. 

List  of  Articles  of  Silver  for 
the  Table,  24. 

List  of  Spoons,  &c.,  25. 

Manufacture  of  cements,  69. 

Marketing,  56. 

Mistaken     Notion     among 
American  Girls,  30. 

Mode  of  Warming  a  House, 
19. 

Mode  of  Liberating  Chlorine, 
90. 

Pictures  on  the  wall,  21. 

Placing  Dishes  on  the  Table, 
99. 

Process  of  Boiling,  82. 

Process  of  Distillation,  92. 

Qualifications  of  Servants,  28. 

Requisites  in  a  Cook,  27. 

Rooms  in  a  House,  19. 

Saccharine  Fermentation,  91. 

Sleeping,  in  close  rooms  in- 
jurious, 20. 

Boyer's  Housewife's  .Dinner, 
89. 

Soyer's  List  of  Kitchen  Arti- 
cles, 23. 


Housekeeping — 

Stoppering  of  Bottles,  61. 

Style  of  Dinner,  a  test  of  re- 
spectability, 87. 

Stored  Articles,  56. 

Sweeping  and  Dusting,  43. 

Tax  on  Visitors,  29. 

Teamaking  in  China,  79. 

Taking  a  house,  18. 

The  Question  of  Dinner,  36. 

The  Store  room,  53,  54. 

Thoughts  on    Housekeeping, 
16. 

To  choose  Fish,  59. 

To  choose  Meats,  56,  57,  58. 

To  choose  Poultry  and  Game, 
58,  59. 

Tying  knots,  75. 

Tying  over  Jars,  76. 

Tying  a  Parcel,  77. 

Ventilation  Important,  20. 

Weights  and  Scales  necessary, 

83. 

Honey  Suckle,  539. 
Hooping  Cough,  556. 
Hopping  John,  386. 
Horse  Radish,  132. 
House  Furnishing,  21. 
Housekeeping  Accounts,  33. 
Household  Articles,  to  keep,  54. 
Household  Linen,  25. 
Housewife's  Dinner,  39. 
Housewife's  Christmas  Cake,  479. 
Housekeeping,  Principles  of,  33. 
Household    Vermin,  to    destroy, 

579. 

Hungary  Water,  541. 
Hung  Beef,  259,  343. 
Hunter's  Beef,  268. 
Hysteric   Patients,    draught   for, 

559. 


Ice  Cream,  Almond,  491. 
Ice  Cream,  Wagner's  Vanilla,  490. 
Ice  Cream,  Wagner's  Lemon,  490. 
Ice  Cream,  Wagner's  Strawberry, 

490. 

Ices,  Water,  491. 
Icing  for  Cakes,  480. 
Icing  for  Fruit  Pies  and  Tarts, 

435. 

Iceland  Liverwort  Decoction,  526. 
Iceland  Moss  Jelly,  523. 
Imperial.  523. 
Impressions  of  Butterflies'  Wings, 

to  take,  575. 

Impressions  of  Leaves,  573. 
Importance  of  Health,  34. 
Income  and  Living,  18. 
Indelible  Marking  Ink,  575. 
Indigestion,  Medicine  for,  557. 
Ingredients  of  Food,  78. 
India  Pickle,  398. 
Infant's  Food,  527. 
Infection,  to  prevent,  90. 
Inflammation  of  Eyes,  557. 
Infant's  Aperient,  564. 
Infusion  de  Lavande  Rouge,  543. 
Infusion  de  Camomile  Romaine, 

543. 

Infusion  of  Esprit  de  Safran,  544 
Infusion  of  Absinthe,  544. 
Infusion  de  Canelle,  544. 
Infusion  Esprit  de  Rhodia,  544 
Infusions  Spirituous,  548. 


Ink,  Recipe  for,  569. 

Ink,  blue,  Recipe  for,  569. 

Ink  for  marking  linen,  555. 

Ink  Stains,  to  remove  from  the 

fingers,  571. 

Ink,  to  remove  from  books,  571. 
Iron  Work,  to  clean,  8a. 
Italian  Cream,  488. 
Italian  Pastes,  450. 


January,  Fish  in  Season  for,  149. 

January,  Fruits  in  Season  for,  149. 

January,  Meats  in  Season  for,  149. 

January,  Poultry  and  Game  in 
Season  for,  149. 

January,  Vegetables  in  Season  for, 
149. 

Japanned  Goods,  to  clean,  89. 

Japanned  Waiters,  &c.,  to  clean, 
574, 

Jeffrey  Hudson  in  a  Pie,  125. 

Jelly,  Arrowroot,  transparent,  524 

Jelly,  Aspic,  854. 

Jelly,  Calf's  Foot,  491. 

Jelly,  cheap  Calf's  Foot,  492. 

Jelly,  clear  Apple,  502. 

Jelly  Cake,  480. 

Jellies,  Coloring  for,  502. 

Jelly,  Cranberry,  503. 

Jelly,  Chicken,  520. 

Jelly,  Currant,  502. 

Jelly,  Easy  and  excellent  Receipt 
for,  489, 

Jelly,  Iceland  Moss,  523. 

Jelly  for  Invalids,  517. 

Jellies  for  Meat  or  raised  Pies, 
410. 

Jelly,  Port  Wine,  519. 

Jelly,  Pork,  Dr.  RatcliflTs,  518. 

Jelly,  Quince,  500. 

Jelly,  Strengthening,  518. 

Jelly,  Tapioca,  521. 

Jerked  Beef,  140. 

Jet,  Harnessmaker's,  573. 

Joints  in  Animals,  Names  of,  116, 

Johnny  Cakes,  469. 

Jophson's  Soup,  524. 

July,  Fish  in  Season  for,  150. 

July,  Fruits  in  Season  for,  150. 

July,  Meats  in  Season  for,  150. 

July,  Poultry  and  Game  in  Sea- 
son for,  150. 

July,  Vegetables  in  Season  for, 
150. 

Jumbles,  478. 

June,  Fish  in  Season  for,  150. 

June,  Fruits  in  Season  for,  150, 

June,  Meats  in  Season  for,  150. 

June,  Poultry  and  Game  in  Sea- 
son for,  150. 

June,  Vegetables  in  Season  foi 
150. 


Kabobs,  530. 
Kedgeree,  524. 
Kedgeree  for  breakfast,  218. 
Ketchup,  Camp,  404 
Ketchup,  Cucumber,  408. 
Ketchup,  Mushroom,  402. 
Ketchup,  Pontac,  406. 
Ketchup,  Seven  years',  404 
Ketchup,  Tomato,  404 


594 


INDEX. 


Ketchup,  Tomato,  for  winter  us), 

404. 

Ketchup,  Walnut,  403. 
Ketchup,  "Walnut,  best    quality, 

403. 
Ketchup,    "Walnut,    Irish    mode, 

403. 
Kettles  and  Saucepans,  to  clean, 

576. 

Kid  Gloves,  to  clean,  569. 
Kisses,  484. 
Kitchen  Articles,  123. 
Kitchen  Clock,  wanted,  123. 
Kitchen  Furniture,  23. 
Knifeboard,  to  make,  573. 
Knives,  to  clean,  89. 
Knives  and  Forks,  575. 
Knots,  74. 
Kringles,  482. 


Labelling  of  Glass  vessels,  65. 

Lady  Cake,  480. 

Lait  de  Poule,  524. 

Lait  de  Eose,  546. 

Lamb,  a  L'  Espagnole,  315. 

Lamb,  an  Pascal,  815. 

Lamb,  Blanquette  d'  Agneau,  a  la 

Provencale,  315. 
Lamb,  Breast  of,  braised,  boiled, 

814. 

Lamb,  Breast  of,  to  stew,  815. 
Lamb  Chops,  316. 
Lamb,  to  choose,  57. 
Lamb,  Chevaux  de  Frise,  315. 
Lamb  Sweetbreads,  with  chevaux 

de  Frise,  315. 
Lamb    with    Lamb    sweetbread, 

815. 

Lamb,  to  bone  a  Quarter,  814. 
Lamb,  Forequarter  of,  311. 
Lamb,  Forequarter,  to  carve,  112. 
Lamb's  Fry,  814. 
Lamb's  Head,  314 
Lamb's  Head  with  Brain  or  Liver, 

814 
Lamb's  Head  with    Hollandaise, 

314 

Lamb's  Head  and  Emincees,  317. 
Lamb's  Heart  Sweetbreads,  larded 

with  Bacon  or  Truffles,  317. 
Lamb's  Leg,  to  boil,  812. 
Lamb's  Leg,  to  roast,  312. 
Lamb's  Loin,  to  grill,  812. 
Lamb's  Loin,  stewed,  313. 
Lamb's   Leg    or    Shoulder   with 

Peas,  313. 
Lamb's  Leg,  boiled  with  Spinach, 

313. 
Lamb's   Leg   or    Shotolder  with 

French  Beans,  813. 
Lamb's  Neck,  a  la  Jardiniere,  313. 
Lamb,  Pieds  d'  Agneau,  317. 
Lamb,  Saddle  of,  312. 
Lamb,   Saddle,   Eussian    fashion, 

813. 

Lamb,  Shoulder  of,  312. 
Lamb,  Shoulder,  braised,  814. 
Lamb's    Shoulder,    forced    and 

braised,  812. 

Lamb's  Shoulder,  larded,  812. 
Lamb  Stones,  to  fricasse,  815. 
Lamb  Sweetbreads,  316. 
Lamb  Sweetbreads,  brown,  816. 
Lamb    Sweetbread    Cutlets    au 

gratin,817. 


Lamb  Sweetbreads  as  Cutlets,  317. 

Lamb  Sweetbreads,  roasted,  817. 

Lamb  Sweetbreads,  larded  a  la 
Daubo,  317. 

Lamb  Sweetbreads,  to  stew,  816. 

Lamb  Sweetbreads,  white,  fri- 
casseed, 316. 

Lamb  Trotters,  318. 

Larding,  142. 

Lard,  to  melt,  828. 

Lard,  Hog's,  828. 

Larks  or  small  birds.  365. 

Lavender  "Water,  544 

Laying  the  cloth,  98. 

Laying  out  of  Tables,  94. 

Laying  out  Tray  or  Sideboard,  99. 

Leche  crema,  488. 

Leeches,  561. 

Lemonade,  511,  524. 

Lemonade,  Flaxseed,  522. 

Lemons  and  Oranges  in  Jelly,  505. 

Lemon  flavoring  for  Puddings, 
402. 

Lettuces  and  Endives,  389. 

Liebig's  plan  for  boiling  meat,  83. 

Lily  of  the  Valley  Essence,  539. 

Lima  Beans,  384. 

Lime,  Cement  of,  568. 

Linen,  Household,  25. 

Linen,  to  perfume,  571. 

Linen,  to  take  stains  out  of,  567. 

Linseed  Emulsion,  523. 

Liquids,  Decanting,  65. 

Liquids,  Filtering,  68. 

Liquid  Glue,  70. 

Liquid  Measures,  124. 

Lip  Salve,  549. 

Lip  Salve,  common,  549. 

Liverwort  Decoction,  526. 

Lobscous,  275. 

Lobster,  boiled,  204. 

Lobster,  curried,  205. 

Lobster,  Croquettes  of,  205. 

Lobster,  Garniture  for  Omelettes, 
464. 

Lobster,  au  gratin,  205. 

Lobster,  Salad,  Italian,  205. 

Lobster  Salad,  205,  392. 

Lotion,  Goulard,  559. 

Luncheons,  95. 

Luxuries  of  different  ages,  125. 


M 

Mace,  130. 

Macaroons  484. 

Maccaroni,  450. 

Maccaroni,  Timbale  of,  450. 

Maccaroni,  Pate  .of,  4T>0. 

Mackenzie's  Perigord  Pie,  418. 

Mahogany,  to  restore  the  color  of, 
578. 

Maids  of  Honor,  485. 

Magnolia,  Essence,  539. 

Management  of  Children,  48. 

Mangoes,  897. 

Manipulation,  Domestic,  59. 

Marble,  to  clean,  570. 

Marbled,  Goose,  368. 

Marbled  Veal,  295. 

March,  Fish  in  Season  for,  149. 

March,  Fruits  in  Season  for,  149. 

March,  Meats  in  Season  for,  149. 

March,  Poultry  and  Game  in  Sea- 
son for,  149. 

March,  Vegetables  in  Season  for, 
149. 


Marinade  for  meats,  250. 

Marinade  for  collared  meats,  854, 

Marjoram,  137 

Marketing,  56. 

Marking  Ink,  575. 

Marmalade,  504. 

Marmalade,  Apple,  504. 

Marmalade,  Orange,  505. 

Marmalade,  Pear,  501. 

Marmalade,  Quince,  5CO. 

Marrow  Pudding,  524. 

Marrow  Bones,  264,  273. 

Marrow  Bones,  baked,  273. 

Mastic  Cement,  72. 

Marrow  Patties,  421. 

Marshmallow  Emulsion,  523. 

Mattresses,  to  clean,  578. 

May,  Fish  in  Season  for,  150. 

May,  Fruits  in  Season  for,  150. 

May,  Meats  in  Season  for,  150. 

May,  Poultry  and  Game  in  Season 
for,  150. 

May,  Vegetables  in  Season  for,  150. 

Mayonnaise,  392. 

Mead  without  fruit,  511. 

Meats  for  January,  February,  149. 

Meats  for  March,  149. 

Meats  for  April,  May,  June,  July, 
150. 

Meats  for  August,  September,  151. 

Meats  for  October,  November,  151. 

Meats  for  December,  152. 

Meat  Jelly,  to  clarify,  355. 

Meat  Pies,  409. 

Medical  Guide,  Family,  556. 

Meats  for  Children,  529. 

Medicine  for  Indigestion,  557. 

Meringues,  493. 

Meringues,  a  la  creme,  494 

Milk,  Ass's,  520. 

Milk,  artificial  Ass's,  520. 

Milk,  baked,  520. 

Milk  Kolls,  471. 

Milk,  toast,  471. 

Millet  Pudding,  523. 

Mincemeat,  427,  428. 

Mince  Pies,  427. 

Mint,  182. 

Miroton  of  Apples,  449. 

Mistress,  Duties  of  the,  31. 

Miscellaneous  Eeceipts,  567. 

Mixed  Pickle,  397. 

Mixture  for  Children  teething, 
557. 

Mixture  for  Diarrhea,  559. 

Mock  Cream,  490. 

Mock  Ginger,  506. 

Molasses  Posset,  521. 

Morels,  389. 

Movable  Screen,  123. 

Mouth  Glue,  to  make,  70. 

Mouton,  Blanquette  de,  302. 

Muffins,  468,  470. 

Mulled  Cider,  514 

Mush,  453. 

Mushrooms,  388. 

Mushrooms,  boiled,  888. 

Mushroom  Garniture  fbr  Ome- 
lettes, 464 

Mushrooms,  to  pickle,  894 

Mushrooms,  to  Pot,  351. 

Musk,  540. 

Mustard,  131, 147. 

Mustard,  French,  406. 

Mutton,  Camp  dish,  310. 

Mutton,  to  choose,  57. 

Mutton   Bagpipe    with  Endive 


INDEX. 


595 


Mutton,  Breast  of,  stewed,  800. 
Mutton,  Breast  of,  to  collar,  853. 
Mutton,    Breast   of,    au    gratin, 

800. 

Mutton,  China  chilb,  303. 
Mutton,  another  way,  303. 
Mutton,  braised  Cutlets,  301. 
Mutton,  cutlets  of,  801. 
Mutton,  cutlets  saute,  301. 
Mutton,  Maintenon,  301. 
Mutton  Chops,  broiled,  800. 
Mutton  Chops,  fried,  300. 
Mutton  Chops  as  Beefsteaks,  300. 
Mutton  Cotelettes,  a  la  Mainte- 
non, 305,  306. 
Mutton  Cutlets  with  Soubise   or 

Onion  sauce,  305. 
Mutton,  a  better  method,  306. 
Mutton  Cotelettes,  a  la  Polonaise, 

806. 
Mutton    Cotelettes,    en    Eagout, 

806. 
Mutton  Cotelettes,  aux  Haricots 

verts,  806. 
Mutton,  au    Gratin,  or   scollops, 

304. 

Mutton,  an  English  Haggis,  810. 
Mutton,  Fillet  of,  301. 
Mutton,  Fillet  of,  stewed,  802. 
Mutton  in  Marinade,  302. 
Mutton,  French  Eagout  of,  309. 
Mutton,  Haricot,  302. 
Mutton  Hams,  to  dress,  305. 
Mutton,  hashed,  303. 
Mutton,  Haunch  of,  to  carve,  112. 
Mutton,  Haunch  of,  297. 
Mutton,  Irish,  stew  of,  303,  310. 
Mutton,  Kebobbed,  302. 
Mutton  Kidneys,  307. 
Mutton  Kidneys,  broiled,  805. 
Mutton,  Leg  of,  roasted,  297. 
Mutton,  Leg,  roasted,  boned,  and 

stuffed,  297. 

Mutton,  Leg  of,  boiled,  298. 
Mutton,  Leg  of,  braised,  298. 
Mutton  Leg  of,  to  carve,  110. 
Mutton,  to  dress  a  Leg  of,  with 

Oysters,  297. 

Mutton,  Leg  of,  to  stuff,  297. 
Mutton,  Leg  steaks,  300. 
Mutton,  Leg,  cut  to  send  to  table 

neatly,  298. 

Mutton,  Loin  steaks,  300. 
Mutton,  Loin  of,  to  carve,  111. 
Mutton,  Loin  of,  stewed,  299. 
Mutton,   Loin    of,  like    Venison, 

305. 

Mutton,  like  Venison,  804. 
Mutton,  Minced,  803. 
Mutton,  Neck  of,  to  carve,  111. 
Mutton,  Neck  of,  299,  300. 
Mouton,  Eognon  de,  a  la  Fran- 

gaise,  804. 
Mutton,    Eumps    and    Kidneys, 

307. 

Mutton,  Eisseroles,  804. 
Mutton,  Saddle  of,  to  carve,  111. 
Mutton,  Saddle  of,  297. 
Mutton,  Saddle  of,  a,  la  Polonaise, 

298. 
Mutton,  Scrags  of,  a  la  St.  Mene- 

hould,  307. 

Mutton,  Shoulder  of,  299. 
Mutton,  Scrag  of,  to  carve,  111. 
Mutton,  Shoulder  of,  with  Eice, 

299. 
Mutton,  a    Scotch    Haggis,    804, 

810. 


Mutton,  Soyer's  new  chop,  299. 
Mutton,  Tails  and  Kidneys,  807. 
Mutton,  Tails  and  Tongues,  308. 
Myrtle  Essence,  539. 


N 


Nail  in  the  Foot,  565. 
Nails  to  whiten,  549. 
Napkins  to  fold,  95. 
Napkins  as  the  Mitre,  95. 
Napkins,  as  the  Exquisite,  95. 
Napkins,  as  the  Collegian,  96. 
Napkins,  as  the  Cinderella,  96. 
Napkins,  as  the  Flirt,  96. 
Napkins,  the  Neapolitan,  96. 
Napkins,  the  Favorite,  96. 
Nasturtiums,  132. 
Nasturtiums,  pickled,  896. 
Neats'  Tongue,  to  choose,  58. 
Neats'  Tongue,  potted,  350. 
Neats'  Tongue,  291. 
Negus,  516. 
Nettlerash,  560. 
New  Year's  Cookies,  478. 
Nipple  Liniment,  564. 
Nougat,  494. 
November,  Fish    in  Season  for, 

151. 
November,  Fruits  in  Season  for, 

151. 
November,  Meats  in  Season  for, 

151. 
November,  Poultry  and  Game  in 

Season  for,  151. 
November,  Vegetables  in  Season 

for,  151. 
Noyau,  516. 
Nursery  Furniture,  46. 
Nutmeg,  130. 


October.  Fish  in  Season  for,  151. 
October,  Fruits    iu    Season    for, 

151. 
October.    Meats    in    Season    for, 

151. 
October,  Poultry    and    Game  in 

Season  for,  151. 
Octobe)-,  Vegetables  in  Season  for, 

151. 

Oeufs,  Brouill^s,  463. 
Oeufs,  Farois,  462. 
Oeufs,  Frits,  462. 
Oeufs,  sur  le  Plat,  462. 
Oils  for  the  Hair,  545. 
Oil  and  Grease,  to  take  out  of 

boards,  570. 
Ointments,  559. 
Ointment,  Elderflower,  562. 
Ointment,  Simple,  559. 
Ointment.  Eesin,  559. 
Ointment,  Calamine,  559. 
Olives,  134. 
Omelettes.  460. 

Omelettes,  aux  Amandes,  481. 
Omelette  Cod.  191. 
Omelette,  aux  Confitures,  461. 
Omelette,  aux  Fines  Herbes,  461. 
Omelette,  d1  Huitres,  461. 
Omelette,  au  Naturel,  461. 
Omelette,  Soufflee,  461. 
Onions,  131,  388. 
Onions,  Spanish,  380. 
Onions,  pickled,  393,  394 


Orangeade,  521. 

Orange  Flower  Essence,  539. 

Orange  Fool,  492. 

Order  and  Method,  45. 

Oysters,  a  llmperiale,  210. 

Oysters,  Breaded.  210. 

Oysters,  Broiled,  209. 

Oyster  Curry,  210. 

Oyster  Forcemeat,  246. 

Oyster  Fritters,  209. 

Oyster  Garniture  for  Omelettes, 

464. 

Oyster  Pie  with  Sweetbread,  210. 
Oysters,  Pickled,  211. 
Oysters,  Eoasted,  210. 
Oyster  Eolls,  209 
Oyster  Sausages,  210. 
Oysters,  Scalloped,  203,  209,  211. 
Oyster,  Stewed,  211. 
Oysters  with  Brown  Sauce,  209. 
Oysters  with  White  Sauce,  209. 
Ox-Cheek,  to  collar,  853. 
Oxford  Dumplings,  450. 
Ox-Feet,  272. 
Ox-Heart,  270. 
Ox-Kidneys,  272. 
Ox-Tails,  a  la  Jardiniere,  269. 
Ox-Tails,  au  Gratin,  269. 
Ox-tongue,  Eemains,  272. 


Packing  Housekeeping  Articles, 

576. 

Pain  Perdu,  449. 
Pains  after  exertion,  564. 
Paint,  to  clean,  89. 
Paint,  Outside,  568. 
Paint,  to  take  out,  575. 
Palpitation,  Draught  for,  557. 
Panada,  519. 
Panada,  Chicken,  519. 
Panada,  for  Fish,  244. 
Panada  for  Quenelle,  244 
Panada  for  Forcemeat,  244 
Pancakes,  457. 
Pancakes,  Apple,  457. 
Pancakes,  Dutch,  457. 
Pancakes,  New  England,  457. 
Pancakes,  Eice,  457. 
Parsley,  132. 
Parsley,  to  fry,  373. 
Parsnips,  382. 
Parties,  Evening,  41. 
Partridges  and  Pheasants,  to  pot, 

348. 

Partridges,  broiled,  371. 
Partridges,  Salmi  of,  871. 
Partridges,  stewed,  871, 
Passover  Balls  for  Soup,  247. 
Passover  Cakes,  483. 
Paste,  to  make,  70,  571. 
Paste,  Flaky,  426. 
Paste,  permanent,  70. 
Paste  of  Beef  or  Mutton,  to  eat 

like  Venison,  422. 
Paste,  very  light,  409. 
Paste,  Puff,  408. 
Paste,  Almond,  432. 
Paste,  406. 

Paste  for  chapped  hands,  545. 
Paste  for  chapped  lips,  546. 
Paste,  Eye,  568. 
Pastilles  for  the  breath,  554. 
Pastilles,  au  Benzoin,  553. 
Pastilles  for  Necklaces,  Bracelets 

&c.,  554 


596 


INDEX. 


Pastilles,  a  la  Eose,  558. 

Pastilles,  Simple,  553. 

Pastry,  Fancy,  426. 

Patchouly,  539. 

Patchouly  Extract,  540. 

Pate,  Divine  de  Venus,  548. 

Pat6,  des  Foies  Gras,  412. 

Pate,  d'  Amandes  des  aux  Jaunes 

d'  ceufs,  548. 
Patties,  423. 
Patties,    Croustade    or   Dresden, 

433. 

Patties  with  curds,  484. 
Patties  like  Mince  Pies,  434. 
Patties,  sweet,  430. 
Peafowls,  866. 
Peas,  Garniture    for    Omelettes, 

464. 

Peas,  Sweet,  Essence  of,  540. 
Pencil  Marks,  to  preserve,  571. 
Peaches  and  Apricots,  to  pickle, 

898. 

Peas,  Green,  380. 
Peas,  to  preserve,  887. 
Peas  Pudding,  386. 
Pennyroyal,  132. 
Pepper,  130. 
Peppers,  to  pickle,  399. 
Perfumery  and  the  Toilet,  537. 
Perfume  Linen,  571. 
Perigord  Pie,  407. 
Perigord  Pie,  Mackenzie's  418. 
Perle  Powders,  547. 
Pernicious    effects    of  Distilling 

Spirits,  510 
Pets  de  Nonne,  481. 
Pettitoes,  326. 
Pheasants,  875. 
Pheasants,  to  carve,  115. 
Pickle  for  Meat,  354. 
Pickled  Apple  Codlings,  400. 
Pickled  Artichokes,  899. 
Pickled  Barberries,  399. 
Pickled  Butternuts,  899. 
Pickled  Beans,  French,  395: 
Pickled  Cabbage,  Purple,  396. 
Pickled  Cabbage,  Eed,  896. 
Pickled  Cabbage,  White,  396. 
Pickled  Cauliflower,  396. 
Pickled  Celery,  396. 
Pickled  Cucumbers,  394. 
Pickled    Gherkins    and    Kidney 

Beans,  399. 
Pickled  Garlic,  394. 
Pickled  Grapes,  399. 
Pickle,  India,  898. 
Pickle,  Mixed,  897. 
Pickled  Mangoes,  397. 
Pickled  Mushrooms,  894. 
Pickled  Nasturtiums,  396 
Pickled  Onions,  393,  394 
Pickled   Peaches    and   Apricots, 

398. 

Pickled  Peppers,  Green,  399. 
Pickled  Plums,  898. 
Pickled  Quince,  398. 
Pickled  Kadish  Pods,  895. 
Pickled  SMlots,  394. 
Pickled  Tomatoes,  397. 
Pickle,  to  last  for  years,  347. 
Pickle  Apricots,  398. 
Pickle  Beef,  &  la  Garrick,  274 
Pickle  Cabbage,  purple,  396. 
Pickle  Cabbage,  red,  396. 
Pickle  Cabbage,  white,  896. 
Pickle  Cucumbers,  894 
Pickle  Garlic,  394 
Pickle  Gherkins,  899. 


Pickle  Grapes,  399. 

Pickle  Herring,  354. 

Pickle  Kidney  Beans,  899. 

Pickle,  Mixed,  897. 

Pickle  Mushrooms,  394 

Pickle  Onions,  393,  394 

Pickle  Oysters,  211. 

Pickle  Peaches,  398. 

Pickle  Plums,  398. 

Pickle  for  Meat,  354 

Pickle  Neck  of  Pork,  322,  827. 

Pickle  Salmon,  201. 

Pictures  on  the  wall,  21. 

Picture    Frames,    to    preserve, 

570. 

Pie,  Apple,  428. 
Pie,  a  fine  Fish,  424 
Pie,  a  Christmas,  422. 
Pie,  Beefsteak,  417. 
Pie,  Beefsteak  and  Oyster,  421. 
Pie,  Calf's  Head,  417. 
Pie,  Calf's  Head  or  Calf's  Foot, 

420. 

Pie,  Calf's  Foot  and  Kidney,  421. 
Pie,  Chicken,  413. 
Pie,  Cocoanut,  426. 
Pie,  Codfish  424 
Pie,  Cold  Veal  or  Chicken,  417. 
Pies,  Cold,  419. 
Pie,  Cracker,  427. 
Pies,  Duck,  418. 
Pies,  Eel,  414 
Pie,  Fish.  418. 
Pie,  French,  419. 
Pie  of  Fowls,  raised,  410. 
Pies,  Fruit,  425. 
Pie,  Game,  418. 
Pie,  Giblet,  413. 
Pie,  Gooseberry  and  other  Fruits, 

428. 

Pie,  Green  Goose,  418. 
Pie,  Grouse,  414 
Pie,  Hare,  419.    . 
Pie,  Lamb,  413. 
Pie,  Lamb,  hot,  411. 
Pies,  Lent,  430. 
Pies,  Mince,  427.  H 

Pie,  Mutton,  412. 
Pie,  Oyster,  416. 
Pie,  Partridge,  414. 
Pie,  Peach,  426. 
Pie  of  Pheasant,  raised,  411. 
Pie,  Pigeon,  413. 
Pie,  Plain  Custard,  427. 
Pies,  Pork,  to  eat  cold,  420. 
Pie,  Pumpkin,  426. 
Pie,  Eabbit,  413. 
Pies,  Eaised,  Crust  for,  407. 
Pie,  Eaised,  Eussian,  410. 
Pie,  Eaised,  served  hot,  410. 
Pies,  Ehubarb,  426. 
Pie,  Eumpsteak,  412. 
Pie,  Snipe,  418. 
Pie,  Squab,  421. 
Pies,  Various,  412. 
Pie,  Veal,  in  a  dish,  417. 
Pie,  Veal  and  Ham,  412. 
Pie,  Veal  and  Oyster,  420. 
Pie,  Veal  and  Sausage,  420. 
Pic,  Veal  and  Sweetbread,  420. 
Pie,  Vegetable,  419. 
Pie  Yorkshire,  Goose,  422. 
Pig,  to  Collar,  853. 
Pig's  Feet,  835. 
Pig's  Feet,  a  la  St  Menehould, 

826. 

Pig's  Feet  and  Ears,  fried,  327. 
Pig's  Head,  baked,  825. 


Pig's  Head,  boiled,  325. 

Pig's  Head,  to  collar,  825. 

Pig's  Harslet,  327 

Pig's  Feet,  stewed,  326. 

Pig's  Kidneys,  885. 

Pig's  Head,  to  collar,  353. 

Pig's  Cheek,  322. 

Pig's  Face,  for  breakfast,  822. 

Pig,  Eoast,  320. 

Pig,  Eoast,  to  carve,  118. 

Pig,  to  roast,  319. 

Pig,  Sucking,  to  roast,  318. 

Pig,  Sucking,  to  scald,  819. 

Pig,    Sucking,    Hindquarter    of, 
319. 

Pigeons,  broiled,  364. 

Pigeons,  to  carve,  116. 

Pigeons,  compote  of,  365. 

Pigeons,    cooked    as    Woodcock, 
865. 

Pigeons,  in  Jelly,  365. 

Pigeons,  or   any    Bird  in  Aspic 
Jelly,  365. 

Pigeons,  potted,  350. 

Pigeons,  Eoasted,'  364 

Pigeons,  Stewed,  3C5. 

Pilau  of  Fowl,  862. 

Pilau,  Indian,  366. 

Pills,  Aperient,  563. 

Pimples,  562. 

Pithcaithly  Bannock,  481. 

Placing  Dishes  at  Dinner,  99. 

Plants,  to  dry,  571. 

Plate,  24,  25. 

Plate,  to  clean,  89. 

Plaster  for  Pains,  568. 

Plovers,  371. 

Plover's  Eggs,  871. 

Plum  Cake,  475. 

Plums,  pickled,  398. 

Plum  Porridge,  438. 

Plum  Pudding  Glace,  493. 

Plummer's  Pill,  559. 

Poele,  French,  363. 

Poele,  to  boil  Fowls  in,  360. 

Poeling,  141. 

Polenta,  451. 

Polished  Irons,  to  keep  from  rust- 
ing, 569. 

Polish  for  Tables,  567. 

Pomatum,  545. 

Pommade  de  Beaute,  549. 

Pommade  for  chapped  lips,  549. 

Pommade,  Victoria,  545. 

Pommade,  des  Sultanes,  548. 

Pommade,  de  Ninon  de  1'  Encloa 
548. 

Pommade  for  Tumors,  564. 

Pommade  for  Corns,  564. 

Pone  of  Sweet  Potato,  385. 

Pork,  318. 

Pork,  to  choose,  57. 

Pork,  boiled,  of  all  kinds,  322. 

Pork,  Chops  or  Steaks,  323. 

Pork,  baked  fagots,  327. 

Pork,  chine,  321. 

Pork,  Cutlets,  321,  322. 

Pork,  Economical  dish  of,  828. 

Pork,  Fillet,  to    resemble  Veal 
320. 

Pork,  Griskin,  318. 

Pork,  Hashed,  835. 

Pork,  Head  Cheese,  324 

Pork,  Jelly,  518. 

Pork,  Leg  of,  boiled,  320. 

Pork,  Leg  of,  roasted,  820. 

Pork,  Leg  of,  to  carve,  112. 

Pork,  Leg  of,  321. 


INDEX. 


597 


Pork,  Leg,  mock  Goose,  821. 

Pork,  Liver  Pudding,  324 

Pork,  Loin,  320. 

Pork,  Neck,  rolled,  320. 

Pork,  to  pickle,  322,  347. 

Pork,  to  restore,  831. 

Pork,  Sparerib,  roasted,  320. 

Pork,  Sparerib,  318. 

Pork,  Spring  or  forehand,  830. 

Pork,  Souse,  32*>. 

Pork  Tongues.  331. 

Porridge,  528. 

Port  Wine  Jelly,  519. 

Potatoes,  377. 

Potato  Barm,  467. 

Potatoes,  Biscuits  of,  379. 

Potato  Cheesecakes,  483. 

Potatoes,  to  brown,  878. 

Potatoes,    a   la  Maitre  d1  Hotel, 

379. 

Potatoes,  fried,  379. 
Potato  Flour,  378. 
Potato  Jelly,  378. 
Potato  Loaves,  378. 
Potatoes,  to  keep,  377. 
Potatoes,  to  mash,  378. 
Potatoes,  New,  377. 
Potato  Omelette,  379. 
Potatoes  and  Peas  for  children, 

529. 

Potato  and  Meat  Salad,  271. 
Potato  Rissoles,  879. 
Potato  Sandwiches,  270. 
Potatoes,  to  roast,  379. 
Potato  Souffle,  379. 
Potato  Wall,  378. 
Pot  Pie,  414. 
Pot  Pourri,  552. 
Pot  Pourri,  Sweet,  545. 
Potting  and  Collaring,  347. 
Pot  all  kinds  of  Game,  350. 
Pot  Beef,  267,  349. 
Pot  Beef  like  Venison,  349,  351. 
Pot  Birds,  349. 
Pot  Chicken  and  Ham,  349. 
Pot  Cowheels,  264 
Pot  Hare,  3-19. 
Pot  Mushrooms,  851. 
Pot  Neat's  Tongue,  350. 
Pot  Partridges, '348. 
Pot  Pheasants,  343. 
Pot  Pigeons,  350. 
Pot  Poultry  and  Game,  348. 
Pot  Rabbits,  349. 
Pot  Salmon,  2  )2. 
Pot  Smelts,  350. 
Pot  Veal,  282,  350,  354 
Pot  Venison,  351. 
Poudre,  de  la  Mer  Eonge,  547. 
Poultice,  Bread  and  Water,  557. 
Poultry,  356. 
Poultry  and  Game  for  December, 

152. 
Poultry  and  Game  for  January, 

February,  March,  149. 
Poultry  and    Game,    for   April, 

May,  June,  July,  150. 
Poultry  and  Game  for    August, 

September,  October,  Novem- 
ber, 151. 

Poultry  and  Game,  to  pot,  343. 
Poultry   and    Game,    to    choose, 

58. 

Pound  Cake,  478. 
Powdering,  72. 

Preparation  for  bad  breath,  554 
Presents  to  servants,  29. 
Preston  Salts,  551. 


38 


Preserve  Apples,  499. 
Preserve  Apricots,  501. 
Preserve  Barberry  Cakes,  506. 
Preserve  Blackberry  Jam,  505. 
Preserve  Blackberries  whole,  503. 
Preserve  Brandy  Cherries,  506. 
Preserve  Brandy  Peaches,  501. 
Preserve  Cherry  Jam,  505. 
Preserve  Crab  Apples,  499. 
Preserve  Currants,  503. 
Preserve  Currants,  dry,  504. 
Preserve  Currant  Jam,  503. 
Preserve  Figs,  Green,  504. 
Preserve  Figs,  ripe,  504 
Preserve  Ginger,  504 
Preserve  Gooseberries,  502. 
Preserve  Green  Corn,  507. 
Preserve  Grapes  in  Brandy,  503. 
Preserve  Green  Gages,  501. 
Preserve  Leinon  Peel,  506. 
Preserve  Mock  Ginger,  506. 
Preserve  Nectarines,  501. 
Preserve  Oranges  or  Lemons  in 

Jelly,  505. 

Preserve  Peaches,  501. 
Preserve  Peaches,  fresh,  507. 
Preserve  Pears,  501. 
Preserve  Pineapples,  499. 
Preserve  Pineapple  Tart,  499. 
Preserve  Plums,  501. 
Preserving,     General    Directions 

for,  499. 

Preserve  Quinces,  499. 
Preserve  liaspberries,  503. 
Preserve  Easp  berry  Cakes,  506. 
Preserve  Easpberry  Jam,  505. 
Preserve    Strawberries    whole, 

503. 

Preserve  Tomatoes  fresh,  507. 
Preserve    Tomatoes,     ripe     or 

green,  504. 

Preserve  Watermelon  Eind,  498. 
Primrose  Ointment,  557. 
Principles  of  Housekeeping,  80. 
Prussian  Cutlets,  336. 
Pudding,  Almond,  442. 
Pudding,   Almond    and     Sauce, 

Pudding,  Batter,  448. 
Pudding,  the  Baked  Plum,  440. 
Pudding,  Baked  Apple,  442. 
Pudding,  Beef  Steak,  41-4,  438. 
Pudding,  Bird's  Nest,  443. 
Pudding,  Black  Cap,  448. 
Pudding,  Boston,  441. 
Pudding,  Boston  Cracker,  447. 
Pudding,  Brandy,  447. 
Pudding,  Bread,  baked,  444 
Pudding,  Bread  and  Butter,  446. 
Pudding,  Brown  Bread,  446. 
Pudding,  Demi  Plum.  445. 
Pudding,  Chocolate,  447. 
Pudding,  Cocoanut,  445. 
Pudding,  Chicken,  baked,  438. 
Pudding,  English  Plum,  440. 
Pudding,  Farina,  442. 
Pudding,  Fine  German,  448. 
Pudding,  Fish,  417. 
Pudding,  Frozen,  493. 
Pudding,  Fruit,  436. 
Pudding,  Game,  433. 
Pudding,  Gloucester,  450. 
Pudding,  Goose,  439. 
Pudding,  Ground  Eice,  440,  445. 
Pudding,  Ground  Eice  with  Fruit, 

445. 

Pudding,  Hasty,  442. 
Pudding,  Indian,  444 


Pudding,  Jenny  Lind,  441. 
Pudding,  Kidney,  416. 
Pudding,  Lamb,  415. 
Pudding,  Lemon,  442. 
Pudding,  Maccaroni,  445. 
Pudding,  Marlborough,  440. 
Pudding,  Marrow,  439. 
Pudding,  Meat,  486. 
Pudding,  Muffin    and   Crumpet, 

Pudding,  Mutton,  415. 
Pudding  a  la  Nesselrode,  449. 
Pudding,  Newcastle,  441. 
Pudding,  Oatmeal,  445. 
Pudding,  Orange,  443,  448. 
Pudding,  Paradise,  442. 
Pudding,  Plain  Eice,  443. 
Pudding,  Polka,  441. 
Pudding,  Pork,  415. 
Pudding,  Potato,  426. 
Pudding,  Pumpkin,  426. 
Pudding,  Quaking,  447. 
Pudding,  Quince,  448. 
Pudding,  Eabbit,  416. 
Pudding,  Eichelieu,  441. 
Pudding,  Eich  Plum,  439. 
Pudding,  Eoly  Poly,  448. 
Pudding,  Sago,  444. 
Puddiner.  Sponge,  447. 
Puddings,  Suet,  437. 
Puddings,  Sweet,  486,  439. 
Puddings,  Sweetmeat,  448. 
Puddings,  Tansy,  439. 
Puddings,  Tapioca,  444 
Puddings,  Yorkshire,  416,  438. 
Puddings,  Veal,  415. 
Puddings,  Vermicelli,  447. 
Puffs,  Light,  429. 
Puffs,  Spanish,  484 
Puff  Paste,  408. 
Punch,  513. 
Punch,  Milk,  514. 
Punch,  English,  513. 
Punch,  French,  514 
Punch,  Norfolk,  513. 
Punch,  Eegent's,  513. 
Punch,  Tea,  514 
Punch,  Victoria,  514 
Punch,  Wine,  514. 
Puree  of  Cauliflower,  236. 
Puree  of  Cucumber,  239. 
Puree  of  Onion,  227. 
Puree  of  Lobster,  186. 
Puree  of  Turnips,  184 
Puree  do  Volaille,  863. 


Quaking  Pudding,  44T. 
Qualifications  of  Servants,  281 
Quihi  Sauce,  240. 
Queen  Cake,  477. 
Quenelles,  129. 
Quin's  Sauce,  406. 
Quince,  Pickled,  398 
Quince  Pudding,  448. 
Quinces,  to  preserve,  499. 


E 

Eabbit,  to  carve,  118. 
Eabbits,  Fricasseed,  872. 
Eabbits,  Potted,  849. 
Eabbits,  to  skin,  878. 
Eabbits,  Pilau  of,  873. 


598 


INDEX. 


Rabbits,  to  taste  like  Hare,  372. 

Kadish  Pods,  pickled,  395. 

Ragout  of  Cod  Sounds,  190. 

Ragout  of  Fish,  214. 

Raised  Crust  for  Pies,  407. 

Ramequins,  455. 

Ramequins,  a  la  Parisienne,  455. 

Ramequins,  fried,  455. 

Ramifolle,  336. 

Ratifias,  484,  511. 

Rt  mains  of  Ox  Tongue,  272. 

Rennet,  490. 

Rennet  Whey,  523. 

Rheumatism,  Medicine  for,  560,582. 

Ribbons,  to  wash,  572. 

Rice  and  Apples,  528. 

Rice,  to  boil,  452. 

Rice  Bread,  466. 

Rice  Cake,  485. 

Rice,  Croquettes,  452. 

Rice,  Casserole  de  Ris,  453. 

Rice    Croquettes,    with    Apricot 

Marmalade,  453. 
Rice  Cakes,  463. 
Rice  Fritters,  452. 
Rice  Flummery,  491. 
Rice,  Gateau  of,  453. 
Rice  Gruel,  521. 
Rice  Pudding  with  Fruit,  528. 
Rice  for  Savory  dishes,  452. 
Rice  Milk,  443. 
Rice  for  Sweet  Dishes,  452. 
Rice  Water,  523. 
Richmond  Maids  of  Honor,  436. 
Rich  Gravy,  222. 
Ringworm,  cnre  for,  557. 
Ris  de  Veau,  en  Caisses,  294. 
Rissoles  of  all  kinds,  227,  247. 
Rissoles  of  Fowl,  363. 
Roas-ting,  137. 
Roast  Beef  of  Lamb,  296. 
Roast  Beef,  Sirloin,  251. 
Roast  Beef  Steaks,  255. 
Roast  Beef  Tongue,  262. 
Roast  Ducks,  869. 
Roast  Fillet  of  Beef,  251. 
Roast  Fillet  of  Veal,  267. 
Roast  Fowls,  361. 
Roast  Goose,  368. 
Roast  Ham,  330. 
Roast  Hare,  872. 
Roast  Leg  of  Lamb,  812. 
Roast  Leg  of  Mutton,  297. 
Roast  Leg  of  Pork,  320. 
Roast  Meat  to  baste,  139. 
Roast  Meat  to  brown,  139. 
Roast  Meat  to  froth,  139. 
Roast  Oysters,  210. 
Roast  Pig,  319,  820. 
Roast  Pigeons,  364. 
Roast  Pike,  195. 
Roast  Potatoes,  379. 
Roast  Shad,  194. 
Roast  Shoulder  of  Venison,  875. 
Roast  Sparerib,  320. 
Roast  Sucking  Pig,  818. 
Roast  Trout,  195. 
Roast  Sweetbreads,  291,  317.     , 
Roast  Turkey,  356. 
Rocks,  468. 
Rolls,  468. 

Rbndaletia,  Essence  of,  540. 
Rooms,  Airing  of,  35. 
Rose,  540. 

Rose  Face  Powder,  546. 
Rose  Lip  Salve,  549. 
Rosemary,  Otto  of,  541. 
Rose,  Moss,  Essence  of,  540. 


Rose,  Tea,  Essence  of,  541. 
Rose,  Triple,  Esprit  de,  540. 
Rose,  White,  Essence  of,  540. 
Routine  of  Daily  Work,  42. 
Rudiments  of  Cookery,  136. 
Rusk,  to  make,  469,  470. 


S 


Sachet,  &  la  "Frangipanne,  552. 

Sachet,  Heliotrope,  552,  552. 

Sachet,  Lavender,  552. 

Sachet,  a  la  Mousselaine,  552. 

Sachet,  Millefleur,  552. 

Sachet,  Portugal,  552. 

Sachet,  Patchouly,  552. 

Sachet,  Rose,  552. 

Sack  Posset,  513. 

Saffron,  134. 

Sage,  132. 

Sago  Fruit  Pudding,  525. 

Saso  Gruel,  522. 

Salads,  890. 

Salad,  Chicken,  890,  891. 

Salad,  Family,  271. 

Salad  Dressing,  390. 

Salad,  Dressing  for  Lettuce,  890. 

Salad,  Fish,  892. 

Salad  of  Fowl,  391. 

Salad,  Lobster,  892. 

Salad,  Mayonnaise,  892. 

Salade,  Pickle,  406. 

Salade,    Sidney    Smith's  Receipt 

for,  389. 

Salads,  Summer,  891. 
Salads,  Winter,  391. 
Sally  Lunu,  468. 
Salmon,  Dried,  530. 
Salsify,  380,  382. 
Salsop,  135. 
Salt,  Bay,  129. 
Salt,  Rock,  129. 
Sandwiches,  532. 
Sangaree,  514. 
Saponaceous  Cream  of  Almonds, 

Sauce,  Anchovy  Butter,  235. 

Sauce,  Anchovy,  Butter  of,  215. 

Sauce,  Anchovy,  for  Fish,  215. 

Sauce,  a  T  Allemande,  241. 

Sauce,  Apple,  232. 

Sauce,  Apple,  Savory,  232. 

Sauce,  Aspic,  the,  221. 

Sauce,  Bechamel,  227,  228. 

Sauce,  Beef  Gravy,  220. 

Sauce,  Beef  Gravy,  French  Re- 
ceipt, 220. 

Sauce,  Blanche,  228. 

Sauce,  Blonde  of  Veal,  240. 

Sauce,  Bread,  228. 

Sauce,  Brown,  215. 

Sauce,  Brown,  Cucumber,  234. 

Sauce,  Brown,  Mushroom,  235. 

Sauce,  Brown,  Mushroom,  thin, 
234 

Sauce,  Brown  Sharp  or  Poivrade, 
237. 

Sauce,  Brown,  Soyer's,  283. 

Sauce,  Brown  Thickening,  228. 

Sauce,  Caper,  Brown,  223. 

Sauce,  Caper,  for  Fish,  215. 

Sauce,  Caper,  a  la  Francaise,  241. 

Sauce,  Caper,  to  imitate,  241. 

Sauce,  Caper,  for  Meat,  242. 

Sauce,  Caper,  White,  223. 

Sauce,  Carachi,  239. 

Sauce,  Carrack  or  Indian,  222. 


Sauce,  Celery,  225,  243. 

Sauce,  Chestnut,  229. 

Sauce,  Chetney  and  Quihi,  240. 

Sauce,  Cod,  217. 

Sauce,  Cranberry,  243. 

Sauce,  Cullis,  231. 

Sauce,  Cullis,  the,  240. 

Sauce,  Currant.  232. 

Sauce,  Curry  Powder,  Delhi,  221. 

Sance,  Curry,  Kitchener's,  221. 

Sauce,  Curry  Powders,  221. 

Sauce,  Curry,  plain,  221. 

Sauce,  Curry,  Soyer's, '236. 

Sauce,  Demi  Glaze,  233. 

Sauce  for  Ducklings,  232. 

Sauce     Dutch,    French    Receipt, 

227. 

Sauce,  Eel,  217. 
Sauce,  Egg,  215,224. 
Sauce,  Epicurean,  222. 
Sauce,  Eschalot,  234. 
Sauce,  a  TEspagnole,  238. 
Sauce,  Fennel,  215,  223,  226. 
Sauce  for  Fish,  214,  217. 
Sauce,  Fish  of  all  kinds,  214. 
Sauce,  Fresh  Pork,  226. 
Sauce  for  Fricandeau,  231. 
Sauce,  Garlic,  235. 
Sauce,  Gooseberry,  231. 
Sauce,  for  Geese,  231. 
Sauce,    Glaze,    French    Receipt, 

227. 

Sauce,  Gravy,  218. 
Sauce,  Gravy,  clear,  220. 
Sauce,    Gravy,  to  make  Mutton 

taste  like  Venison,  220. 
Sauce,  Gravy,  stock  for,  219. 
Sauce,  Gravy,  for  Venison  Haunch, 

Sauce,  Gravy,  for  Veal,  220. 
Sauces,  Gravies,  &c.,  218. 
Sauce,  Gravy,  rich,  222. 
Sauce,  Harvey,  225. 
Sauce,  a  T  Hollandaise,  238. 
Sauce,  Horseradish,  214,  224 
Sauce,  Hot  Spice,  222. 
Sauce,  India  Pickle,  237. 
Sauce,  Italian,  for  Salads,  226. 
Sauce,  Lemon,  for  boiled  Fowls, 

228. 

Sauce,  Lemon,  white,  228. 
Sauce,  Liaison,  231. 
Sauce,  Liaison  of  Eggs,  235. 
Sauce,  Liver,  229. 
Sauce,  Liver,  for  boiled  Chickens, 

229. 

Sauce,  Lobster,  218. 
Sauce,  Lobster,  a  la  Creme,  215. 
Sauce,  Lobster,  French,  216. 
Sauce,  Lobster,  new,  215. 
Sauce,  Lobster,  simplified,  216. 
Sauce,  Lobster  and  Shrimp,  216. 
Sauce,  for  made  dishes,  233. 
Sauce,  Mandram,  224. 
Sauce,  la  Magnonnaise,  289. 
Sauce,  Maigre,  238. 
Sauce,  Maitre  d1  Hotel  butter,  223. 
Sauce,  a  la  Maitre  d'  Hotel,  231. 
Sauce,  Matelote,  217. 
Sauce,  Matelote,  simplified,  217. 
Sauce,  Melted  Butter,  222. 
Sauce,  Melted  Butter,  to  brown, 

223. 

Sauce,  a  la  Militaire,  405. 
Sauce,  Minced  Herb,  234 
Sauce,  Mint,  226. 
Sauce,  Mint,  for  Lamb,  235. 
Sauce,  Mint,  for  Roast  Lamb,  224 


INDEX. 


599 


Since,  Mushroom,  224 

Sauce,  Mushroom  Ketchup,  242. 

Sauce,  Mussel,  21T. 

Sauce,  Nasturtium,  243. 

Sauce,  Onion,  225. 

Sauce,  Onion,  Brown,  225. 

Sauce,  Onion  Puree,  236. 

Sauce,  Orange,  for  Game,  235. 

Sauce,  Orange  Gravy,  226. 

Sauce,  Oude,  the  Original,  239. 

Sauce,  Oyster,  225. 

Sauce,  Papillotte,  235. 

Sauce,  Parsley  and  Butter,  223. 

Sauce,  Piquant,  238. 

Sauce,  Piquant  or  Sharp,  234 

Sauce,  Poivrade,  237. 

Sauce,  a  la  Provencale,  238. 

Sauce,  Puree  of  Cauliflower,  236. 

Sauce,  Puree  of  Cucumber,  239. 

Sauce,  Puree  of  Onion,  227. 

Sauce,  Queen  Mary's,  224 

Sauce,  Ravigote,  234. 

Sauce,  a  la  Reine,  239. 

Sauces  for  Roast  Fowls,  230. 

Sauce,  Robert,  227. 

Sauce  for  Roast  Beef  and  Mutton, 

224. 

Sauce,  Robert,  Soyer's,  234 
Sauce,  Royale,  239. 
Sauce,  Roux,  231. 
Sauce  for  Salmon,  216. 
Sauce  for  Shrimp,  216,  218. 
Sauce,  Soyer's,  235. 
Sauce,  Spinach,  Pur6e,  237. 
Sauce,  Spinach,  238. 
Sauce,  a  la  St.  Menehould,  239. 
Sauce    for    Steaks    and    Chops, 

243. 

Sauces,  Store,  405. 
Sauce,  Soubise,  227. 
Sauce  for  Sucking  Pig,  232. 
Sauce,  Tarragon,  "226.  234 
Sauce  a  la  Tartare,  226. 
Sauce,  Tomato,  226. 
Sauce,  Tomato,  Soyer's,  235. 
Sauce,  Truffle,  229. 
Sauce,  Tournee,  240. 
Sauce,  Tomato,  Francaise,  242. 
Sauce,  Tomatoes,  Garniture,  242. 
Sauce,    Tomato,    a   1'    Italienne, 

242. 

Sauce,  Tomato  Ketchup,  243. 
Sauce,  Veal  Gravy,  240. 
Sauce,  Veloute  of  Bechamel,   a 

new  method,  241. 
Sauce,  Vegetable  Marrow,  230. 
Sauce,  Veloute,  the,  241. 
Sauce,.JVelout6,  220. 
Sauce,  Walnut  Ketchup,  243. 
Sauce,  White  Cream  for  Puree, 

237. 

Sauce,  White,  214,  229,  230. 
Sauce,  White  Roux,  228. 
Sauce,  White,  for  Chickens,  229. 
Sauce  for  White  Poultry,  boiled, 

229. 

Sauce,  White,  Soyer's,  232. 
Sauce,  White,  very  good,  (new) 

236. 

Sauces  for  Wild  Fowl,  232. 
Sauce,  White  Thickening,  238. 
Sauce,  Worcester,  419. 
Saucepan  Digester,  123. 
Saucr  Kraut,  383. 
Bauer  Kraut,  to  serve,  883. 
Saucisses,  au  Chataignes,  325. 
Saucisses,  a  1'  Espagnole,  324 
Sausages,  323,  324 


Sausages,  Beef,  333. 

Sausages,    Black    Puddings,   327, 

849. 

Sausages,  Black  and  White,  327. 
Sausages,  Bologna,  324 
Sausage  Cakes,  334. 
Sausage,  to  eat  cold,  888. 
Sausages,  Fowl  or  Rabbit,  339. 
Sausages  and  Forcemeat,  387. 
Sausage  Meat,  338. 
Sausages,  Mutton,  338. 
Sausages,  Oyster,  838. 
Sausages,  Spanish  and  Portuguese, 

389. 

Sausages,  Spiced,  825. 
Sausage  Toast,  530. 
Sausages,  University  Receipt  for, 

324 

Sausages,  Veal  and  Poultry,  339. 
Sausages,  White,  325,  327,  840. 
Savon  au  Miel,  547. 
Savory,  132. 

Savory  Dishes  for  Breakfast,  529. 
Scorzonera,  3SO,  382. 
Scarlet  Fever,  556. 
Scotch  Woodcock,  530. 
Scollops   of    Calfs    Liver    with 

herbs,  292. 
Scollops  of  Sweetbread  with  Peas, 

292. 

Scorched  Linen,  to  renew,  570. 
Scotch  Short  Bread,  483. 
Sea  Kale,  382. 
Sea  Pie,  276. 

Seasoning  for.  Raised  Pies,  410. 
Seasoning  for  a  Goose,  248. 
Seasoning  for  Stuffing,  245. 
Seasoning  for  Roast  Pork,  248. 
Seasoning  for  Ducks    or    Geese, 

248. 

Seasoning  for  a  Sucking  Pig,  248. 
Second  Course  at  Dinner,  100. 
Seed  Cake  480. 
Semonlina,  527. 
September,  Fish  in    Season  for, 

151. 
September,  Fruits  in  Season  for, 

151. 
September,  Meats  in  Season  for, 

151. 
September,  Poultry  and  Game  in 

Season  for,  151. 
September,  Vegetables  in  Season 

for,  151. 
Servants,  26. 
Serve  Fish,  107. 
Serving  Dinner,  40. 
Serving  Breakfasts,  43,  94 
Servants'  Duties,  42. 
Servants'  Perquisites,  28. 
Shalots  Pickled,  394 
Shaving  Pastes,  555. 
Sheep's  Head,  308. 
Sheep's    Rumps   and    Kidneys, 

135. 

Sheep's  Tails  and  Kidneys,  307. 
Sheep's  Tails  and  Tongues,  308. 
Sheep's  Tongues  stewed,  305. 
Sheep's  Trotters,  309. 
Sheep's    Tongues  with    Turnips, 

811. 
Sheep's    Tongues   with    Cabbage 

Lettuces,  311. 
Shellfish,  to  pot,  348. 
Short  Cakes,  468. 
Shoes,  to  make  Waterproof.  578. 
Sick,  Cookery  for,  517. 
Sieves,  124 


Silk,  to  clean,  570. 

Silver,  to  clean,  571. 

Silver  Flowers,  to  paint  on  Silk 

571. 

Simnel,  429. 
Sippets,  519. 
Slip,  489. 
Smearcase,  454. 
Smelts,  Potted,  850. 
Soap,  to  keep,  55. 
Soaps,  547. 

Soap,  Frangipanne,  547. 
Soap,  to  keep,  54. 
Soap,  Transparent,  547. 
Soda,  in  washing,  55. 
Somersetshire  Fromity,  523. 
Souffle  of  Apples,  453, 
Soups,  155. 
Soup,    Asparagus,    with    Greon 

Peas,  180. 

Soup,  del  Asperge,  180. 
Soup,  Autumn,  168. 
Soup,  Baked,  169. 
Soup,  Bean,  180. 
Soup,  Brown  Gravy,  157. 
Soup,  Brown,  Stock  for,  157. 
Soup,  Browning  for,  159. 
Soup  Cabbage,  182, 
Soup,  Cock-a-Leekie,  165. 
Soup,  a  la  Creci  or  Carrot,  182. 
Soup,  Clam,  186, 187. 
Soup,  Cottage.  164 
Soup,  Eel,  187. 
Soup,  Family,  168. 
Soup,  Fish,  185. 
Soup,  a  la  Francaise,  163. 
Soup,  G.blet,  169. 
Soup,  Gravy,  161. 
Soup,  Green  Pea  Porridge,  182. 
Soup,  Hare,  178. 
Soup,  Hare  or  Wild  Duck,  178. 
Soup,  Harico,  162. 
Soup,  Hessian,  167. 
Soup,  Hotch  Potoh,  166. 
Soup,  Hotch  Potch,  English,  168. 
Soup,  Italienne,  181. 
Soup,  Jophson's,  524. 
Soup,  a  la  Julienne,  180. 
Soup,  Julienne,  with  Consommd. 

181. 

Soup,  Julienne,  Soyer's,  181. 
Soup,  Jenny  Lind's,  162. 
Soup,  Lake  and  Pond  Fish,  188. 
Soup,  Lamb,  168. 
Soup,  Leek  or  Onion,  183. 
Soup,  Leg  of  Beef  Broth,  168. 
Soup,  Lobster,  185. 
Soup,  Maccaroni,  182. 
Soup,  Maccaroni,  with  Consomme. 

181. 

Soup,  Mock  Turtle,  172, 177. 
Soup,  Mock  Turtle,  English,  175. 
Soup,  Mullagatawny,  170. 
Soup,  Mullagatawny,  Soyer's,  166. 
Soup,    Mullagatawny,    English, 

167. 

Soup,  Mutton,  168. 
Soup,  Mutton  Broth,  169. 
Soup,    New   England    Chowder 

187. 

Soup,  Neat's  Feet,  173. 
Soup,  Ochra,  161. 
Soup,  Onion,  183. 
Soup,  Ox-tail,  163. 
Soup,  Oyster,  186. 
Soup,  Partridge,  179. 
Soup,  Pepperpot,  161, 184 
Soup,  Pepperpot  Hotchpotch,  16$ 


600                                                                       INDEX. 

Boup  Pigeon,  178. 

Stew  Loin  of  Lamb,  813. 

Tea,  Beef,  518. 

Soup,  Potato  Maigre,  183. 

Stew  Loin  of  Mutton,  299. 

Tea  Cream,  498. 

Soup,  Potage  u  la  Reine,  170. 
Soup,  Portable.  159. 
Soup,  Portable  White,  160. 

Stew  Mackerel,  198. 
Stew  Neck  of  Veal,  279. 
Stew  Partridges,  871. 

Tea,  Dandelion  and  Parsley,  523. 
Tea,  Elderflower,  522. 
Teas,  103. 

Soup,  Potage  a  la  Reine  (Udos), 

Stew  Piir's  Feet.  326. 
Stew  Rump  Steak,  259. 

Term,?,  Foreign,  Glossary  of— 
Atalets,  126. 

Soup,  Pot  au  feu,  French,  162. 
Soup,  Pot  au  feu,  161. 

Stew  Sheep's  Tongues,  305. 
Stew  Shoulder  of  Venison,  875. 

Baba,  126. 
Bain  Marie,  126 

Soup,  Puree  of  Lobster,  186. 

Stew  Sturgeon,  197. 

Bard,  126. 

Soup,  Puree  of  Turnip,  184. 

Stew  Sweetbreads,  290,  311. 

Beignet,  126. 

Soup,  a  la  Keine  Victoria,  167. 

Stew  Trout,  199. 

Blanc,  126. 

Soup,  Kice,  170. 

Stew  Watercress,  388. 

Blanch,  126. 

Soup,  Rice  and  Meat,  163. 
Soup,  Rice  Cream,  177. 

Stock  for  Gravy,  219. 
Stoppering,  61. 

Blariqnette,  127. 
Bouilli,  127. 

Soup,  Sago,  165. 

Stove.  Cooking,  85. 

Bouillon,  127. 

Soup,  a  la  Sap,  167. 
Soup,  Saute,  1S4 
Soup,  Savory  Jellv,  179. 
Soup,  Scotch  Kail,  164. 

Stove,  Cottager's,  85. 
Stuffing,  245. 
Straining  Liquids,  58. 
Strengthening  Jellv.  518. 

Bouquet,  127, 
Bouquet  garni,  127. 
Bourguignote,  127. 
Braise,  127. 

Soup,  Scotch  Broth,  165. 

Strasburg  Potted  Meat,  274 

Brioche,  127. 

Soxip,  Scotch  Barley  Broth,  169. 
Soups,  Seasonings  for.  156. 

Succotash,  884 
Suet,  147. 

Buisson,  127. 
Callipash,  127. 

Soup,  Snapping  Turtle,  179. 
Soup,  Sheep's  Head,  165. 
Soup,  Sover's  Brown  Gravy,  158. 
Soup,  Sover's  Glaze,  150. 

Sugar,  134. 
Sugar  Almonds,  509. 
Sugar,  to  boil  for  Spinning,  503. 
Sugar  Bonbons,  509. 

Callipee,  127. 
Capilotade,  127. 
Caramel,  127. 
Casserole.  127. 

Soup,  Sorrel,  183. 
Soup,  Spring,  167,  181,  184 
Soup,  Stock  for  Fish,  185. 
Soup,  Stock  for  all  kinds  of,  153. 

Sugar  Cake,  479. 
Sugar,  to  clarify,  508. 
Sugar,  Degrees  of  boiling,  508. 
Sugar  Taffie,  509. 

Civet,  127. 
Compeigne,  127. 
Compotier,  127. 
Compote,  127. 

Soup,  Stock  for  White,  156. 

Suppers,  103. 

Consomme,  127. 

Soup,  Summer,  168. 

Sweetbreads,  290. 

Couronne,  127. 

Soup,  Tomato,  180,  183. 

Sweetbreads,    fricasseed    brown, 

Court,  127. 

Soup,  la  Tortile,  173. 

291. 

Coulis,  127. 

Soup,  Transparent,  160. 
Soup,  Turtle,  171. 

Sweetbread,  Croquettes  of,  291. 
Sweetbreads,    Croquettes    of, 

Croquettes,  127. 
Croustades,  127. 

Soup,  Veal  Broth,  168,  170. 

French  Receipt,  292. 

Croutons,  127. 

Soup,  Veal  Potage,  170. 

Sweetbreads,    Fricasseed  White, 

Dorez,  127. 

Soup,  Vegetable,  179. 

291. 

Dorure,  127. 

Soup,  Vcloute,  178. 
Soup,  Venison,  171. 

Sweetbreads,  Fried,  290. 
Sweetbreads,  a  la  Daube,  290. 

En  papillote,  127. 
Entremets,  127. 

Soup,  White,  161,  163. 

Sweetbreads,  Roasted,  291. 

Entree,  127. 

Soup,  White  Stock,  160. 

Sweetbreads,  to  roast,  291. 

Farce,  128. 

Soup,  Winter.  168. 

Sweetbreads,  Stewed,  290. 

Financiere,  128. 

Soup,  Winter  Pea,  182. 

Sweetbreads,    Scollops   of,    with 

Flan,  128. 

Soup,  Winter  Vegetable,  184 

Green  Peas,  292. 

Faggot,  128. 

Soy,  135. 

Sweet  Corn,  385. 

Fricandeaux,  128. 

Spinach,  382. 

Sweet  Potato  Pone,  885. 

Gateau,  128. 

Spiritwash,  558. 

Syllabub,  489-. 

Glaze,  128. 

Sponges,  to  clean,  568. 

Syllabub,  Country,  491. 

Glaze  Ice,  128. 

Sponge  Cake,  477. 

Sympathetic  Inks,  573. 

Godiveau,  128. 

Sprain,  560. 

Gras,  123. 

Sprains  and  Bruises,  560. 

Gratin,  128. 

•      Spring,  Aperient,  563. 

T 

Hors  d'  Oeuvre,  123. 

Squashes  or  Cymbelins,  885. 

Lard,  128. 

Squash,  Winter,  885. 

Table,  Direction  of,  37. 

Lardon,  128. 

Steel  Forks,  to  clean,  89. 

Table  Furniture,  37. 

Liaison,  128.                ^, 

Steel  Pens,  to  preserve  from  cor- 

Tables, Laying  out  of,  94. 

Madeleine,  128. 

rosion,  581. 

Tainted  Meat,  to  restore,  254 

Maigre,  128. 

Stewing,  142. 

Tamarinds,  524. 

Marinade,  128. 

Stew  Beans,  886, 

Tankard,  Cool,  513. 

Mash,  128. 

•  Stew  Beef.  252,  256. 

Tapioca,  135. 

Matelote,  128. 

Stew  Beef  Steaks,  255. 
Stew  Beef  Tongue,  262, 

Tapioca,Milk,  525. 
Tarragon,  132. 

Meringue,  128. 
Miroton,  128. 

Stew  Breast  of  Lamb,  315. 

Tart,  Apricot,  428. 

Nouilles,  128. 

Stew  Breast  of  Mutton,  300. 

Tart,  Codling,  428. 

Panada,  128. 

Stew  Brisket  of  Beef,  253,  262. 

Tarts,  Cranberry,  432. 

Pate,  128. 

Stew  Breast  of  Veal,  278. 

Tartlets  of  Almond  Paste,  433. 

Poel  -e,  128. 

Stew  Carp,  196. 

Tartlets,  Green  Apricots,  431. 

Posset,  128. 

Stew  Crabs,  207. 

Tart,  Green  Gooseberry,  433. 

Potage,  128. 

Stew  Duck  and  Peas,  369. 

Tartlets,  a  la  Paganini,  432. 

Pot  au  feu,  128. 

Stew  Fillet  of  Mutton,  302. 

Tartlets,  Prune,  432. 

Puree,  12S. 

Stew  First  Watch,  276. 

Tartlets,  Lemon,  431. 

Quenelles,  129. 

Stew  Fish,  214 

Tarts,  Small  Fruit,  431. 

Rissole,  129. 

Stew  Halibut,  191. 
Stew  Knuckle  of  Veal,  279. 

Tartlets  with  Strawberries,  483. 
Tea,  496. 

Roux,  129. 
Salmi,  129. 

Stew  Lobster,  204 

Tea,  Balm,  521. 

Sabotiore,  129. 

INDEX. 


601 


Sauter,  129. 

Tamis,  129. 

Terrapins,  Stewed,  208. 

Test  of  the  Utility  of  Know- 
ledge 15. 

Third  Coarse  at  Dinner,  100. 

Tourner,  129. 
»     Tourte,  129. 

Vanner,  129. 

Veloute,  129. 

Vol  au  vent,  129. 
Thoughts  and  Mao-ims  on  House- 
keeping, 15. 

All  Soups,  143. 

Apples,  to  choose  and  keep, 
146. 

Bag  for  Tape,  Strings,  But- 
tons, &c.,  145,' 

Bones  for  Soup,  144 

Bread  Pounded  for  Paddings, 
144. 

Brewis,  144. 

Brooms,  145. 

Buffaloes'  Tongues,  145. 

Carrots,  147. 

Ca.iliflowers,  14T. 

Celery,  147. 

Cleanliness  the  first,  second, 
and  third  requisite  for  a 
Cook,  143. 

Clean  Hands  always,  148. 

Cold  Water  cracks  Iron,  148. 

Copper  Vessels  dangerous,  148. 

Corning  Meat,  146. 

Cover  Castors,  145. 

Cover  Flour,  Sugar,  &c.,  143. 

Deaths  from  rust  on  copper 
vessels,  144. 

Dinner  plates  hot,  144. 

Dirty    Saucepans    dangerous, 

Eggs  in  Lime  water,  144. 
Empty  Saucepans  after  using, 

143. 

Fish,  to  cook,  148. 
Foundation    of  poverty    or 

riches,  144. 
Fragments  of  time  valuable, 

144. 

Game,  to  clean,  &c.,  147. 
Gravies,  147. 
Herbs,  to  dry,  146. 
Herbs,  to  keep,  145. 
Horseradish,  145. 
Hams,  to  put  away,  146. 
Honev,  146. 
.Telly  'Bags,  148. 
Ironing  Blanket  and    Sheet, 

145. 
Keep  Tin  and  Copper  clean, 

143. 

Kitchen,  dirty,  a  Disgrace,  148. 
Knives,  to  wash,  145. 
Knives  and    Forks    to  keep 

from  rusting,  145. 
Keeping  Meats,  146. 
Keep    Onions     from     other 

things,  143. 

Lamps,  to  prevent  from  smell- 
ing 144. 

Lard,  to  melt,  147. 
Lenionpeel  Brandy,  145. 
Legs  of  Mutton,  cured,  146. 
Marjoram,  sweet,  to  dry,  144. 
Molasses,  to  improve,  145. 
Maxims,  143. 
Mustard,  to  mix,  147. 
Onions  on  Kopes,  148. 

38 


Orange  or  Lemon  peel  In  Pots, 
146. 

Ox  Gall,  its  use,  144. 

Pastry,  to  bake,  148. 

Place  for  every  thing,  146. 

Potatoes  in  Shortcakes,  &c., 
146. 

Pudding  Towels,  148. 

Raisin  Wine,  148. 

Reindeer's  Tongues,  to  imi- 
tate, 145. 

Roseleaves  in  Brandy,  145. 

Sago,  to  prepare,  147. 

Salt   and    Sperm    Candles  in 
Starch,  145. 

Shoulder  of  Veal  economical, 
145. 

Soap,  cut  and  dry,  146. 

Soak  soiled  clothes,  145. 

Stone  on  Meat  in  pickle,  145. 

Stock  Pot  never  empty,  146. 

Smoking  Meat,  146. 

Stocks  and  Sauces,  148. 

Suet,  147. 

Surveillance  of  the  Mistress 
necessary,  148. 

Tin  and  Wooden  ware,  144 

Tongue,  to  soak,  147. 

True  Economy  of  Housekeep- 
ing, 144. 

Towels  in  the  Kitchen,  145. 

Wax,  to  separate  from  Honey- 
comb, 145. 
Thyme,  132. 

Tincture  of  Benzoin,  544 
Tincture  of  Santal-citrin,  544 
Tincture  of  Sassafras,  544 
Tin  Covers,  to  clean,  57 
Tins,  574. 

Tipperary  Curry,  419. 
Tipsy  Cake,  4S3. 
Toad  in  a  Hole,  416. 
Toast,  Anchovy,  530. 
Toast,  German,  530. 
Toast  Ham,  530. 
Toast  Kidney,  530. 
Toast  Sausage,  530. 
Toast  Vegetable,  530. 
Toast  Water,  521. 
Toilet,  the,  537. 
Tomatoes,  385. 
Tomatoes,  to  stuff,  386. 
Tomatoes,  Garniture  of,  242. 
Tomatoes,  Pickled,  397. 
Tomatoes,  to  keep  fresh,  507. 
Tomatoes,  Ripe  or  Green,  to  pre- 
serve, 504. 
Tomato  Sauce,  226. 
Tomato  Sauce,  Soyer's,  235. 
Tomato  Ketchup,  343. 
Tomato  Sauce,  a  T  Italienne,  242. 
Tomato  Sauce,  Francaiso,  242. 
Tomatoes,  Scolloped,  386. 
Tomato  Soup,  180,  183. 
Tongues,  Beef,  262. 
Tongue,  Beef,  to  cure,  257. 
Tongue,  Beef,  to-dress.  257. 
Tongue,  Beef,  fresh,  263. 
Tongue,  Beef,  larded,  257. 
Tongue,  Beef,  to  eat  cold,  262. 
Tongue,  Beef,  and  Udder,  fresh, 

263. 

Tongues,  to  cure,  343. 
Tongues,  to  carve,  112. 
Tongues,  Pork,  831. 
Tongue,  to  roast,  262. 
Tongue,  to  stew,  262. 
Tongues,  Pigs',  331. 


Tongues  and  Tails,  Sheep's,  308. 
Tongues,  Sheep's,  343. 
Tongues,  Sheep's,  stewed,  305. 
Tongues,  Sheep's,  with  Turnips, 

811. 
Tongues,  Sheep's  with  Cabbage, 

Lettuces,  311. 
Tooth  Powder,  552. 
Top  Pot,  139. 
Tops  and  Bottoms,  471. 
Tortue,  la.  Soup,  173. 
Tournee  Sauce,  240. 
Training  of  Children,  49. 
Transparent  Crust,  408. 
Transparent  Soap,  547. 
Transparent  Soup,  160. 
Trifle,  German,  4891 
Trifles,  Gooseberry  or  Apple,  4S9. 
Trifles,  445. 

Triple  Esprit  de  Rose,  540. 
Trotters,  Sheep's,  309. 
Trout,  Stewed,  199. 
Trout,  in  the  Foreign  mode,  198. 
Trout,  Roasted,  195. 
Trout,  Fried,  195. 
Truffle,  138. 
Truffles,  389. 

Truffles  with  Champagne,  389. 
Truffle  Sauce,  229. 
Truss  Chickens,  105. 
Truss  Fowls,  105. 
Truss  a  Goose,  104 
Truss  Hare  or  Rabbit,  106. 
Trass  Pheasants,  105. 
Truss  Pigeons,  106. 
Trussing  Poultry,  103. 
Trussing  Small  Birds,  106.     ' 
Trussing  a  Turkey,  104. 
Trussing  Wild  Fowl,  106. 
Tumors,  Pomade  for,  564 
Turbot  a  la  Creme,  199. 
Turesicus,  810. 
Turkey,  Boiled,  357. 
Turkey,  Boiled,  braised,  353. 
Turkey  or  Fowl,  forced,  357. 
Turkey  Giblets,  a.  la  Bourgeois, 

3(57. 

Turkey,  Hashed,  857. 
Turkey,  with  Sausage  meat,  856. 
Turkey,  to  roast,  35o. 
Turkey  with  Sausage  meat  and 

Tongues,  857. 
Turkey  Poult,  357. 
Turkey,  Pulled  and  grilled,  860. 
Turkey,  with  flat  Sausage  Cake, 

357. 

Turkey,  Roast,  braised,  358. 
Turkey,  if  old,  359. 
Turkey,  Roast  or  boiled,  to  carve. 

113. 

Turnips,  382. 
Turnips,  whole,  389. 
Turnip  Puree  Soup,  184. 
Turnips.  Puree  of,  8S9. 
Turnips',  with  Duckling,  870. 
Turtle,  212. 
Turtle,,  Eggs  for,  247. 
Turtle  Soup,  171. 
Twickenham  Trout,  198, 
Tying  Down,  61. 
Tying  Parcels  up,  77. 
Tying  Vessels  over,  7«. 


Udder,  Beef,  263. 
Udder  Farce,  244. 


602 


INDEX. 


University  Eeceipt  for  Sausages, 

324. 

Unstoppering,  61. 
Utensils,  Culinary,  116. 


Vanilla,  134. 

Vanilla,  Extract  of,  541. 

Vapor  Bath,  564. 

Vapor  Alcoholique,  551. 

Varnish  for  Mahogany,  567. 

Veal,  Breast  of.  to  collar,  353. 

Veal,  Cervelles  <le  veau  Fricassees, 

289. 

Veal,  to  choose,  56. 
Veal,  Blanquettes,  295. 
Veal,  Blonde  of,  240. 
Veal,  Breast  of,  to  carve,  109. 
Veal,  Breast  of,  278. 
Veal,  Breast  of,  to  stew,  278. 
Veal,  Breast  of,  forced,  278. 
Veal  Broth,  168,  170. 
Veal  Cake,  294. 
Veal  Collops,  to   dress    quickly, 

283. 

Veal,  Collops  of,  281. 
Veal,  a  la  Chartreuse.  295. 
Veal,  cold  Scollops  of,  295. 
Veal,  Curry  of,  298. 
Veal,  Currv,  287. 
Veal  Cutlets,  280. 
Veal  Cutlets  and  Celery,  284. 
Veal  Cutlets,  Crumbed  or  plain, 

280. 

Veal  Cutlets,  curried,  280. 
Veal  Cutlets,  a  la  Hollandaise,  284. 
Veal  Cutlets  with  White  Sauce, 

284. 

Veal  Cutlets,  a  la  Maintenon,  281. 
Veal  Cutlets  en  papillotte,  283 
Veal  Cutlets  and  Rice,  284. 
Veal  Cutlets,  another  way,  280. 
Veal,  Fillet  of,  boiled,  277. 
Veal,  Fillet  of,    boiled,  English, 

Veaf  Farcies,  284 

Veal,  Fillet  of,  to  carve,  109. 

Veal,  Fillet  of,  roasted,  277. 

Veal,  Fillet  of,  to  roast,  277. 

Veal,  Fricandels  of,  286. 

Veal,  Fricandeau  of,  286. 

Veal.  Galantine,  281,  287. 

Veal  Garniture  en  Ragoiit,  294 

Veal  Gravy,  220,  240. 

Veal,  Haricot  of,  237. 

Veal,  Hashed,  282. 

Veal,  Knuckle,  278. 

Veal,  Knuckle  of,  to  carve,  109. 

Veal,  Knuckle  of,  boiled,  278. 

Veal,  Knuckle  of,  stewed,  279. 

Veal  Liver  and  Bacon,  fried,  289. 

Veal,  Loin,  boiled,  278. 

Veal,  Loin,  braised,  232. 

Veal,  Loin,  roasted,  277. 

Veal,  Loin  of,  to  carve,  109. 

Veal,  to  marble,  295. 

Veal,  to  mince,  296. 

Veal,  to  mince,  Turkish  way,  296. 

Veal,  Miroton  of,  286. 

Veal,  Neck  of,  to  carve,  109. 

Veal,  Neck,  braised,  279. 

Veal,  Neck,  with  new  Potatoes, 

279. 

Veal,  Neck,  with  Peas,  279. 
Veal.  Neck,  stewed,  279. 
Veal,  Olives  of,  287. 


Veal  Olives  roti,  281. 

Veal,  Potted,  350,  354 

Veal,  Potted,  282. 

Veal  Potage,  171. 

Veal  and  Poultry  Sausages,  339. 

Veal  Puddinsrs,  415. 

Veal,  Queues  of,  288. 

Veal,  Rolled,  285. 

Veal  Rolls,  295. 

Veal,  Scotch  Collops,  283. 

Veal,  Shoulder  of,  279. 

Veal,  Scollops  of  Sweetbreads, 
292. 

Veal,  Shoulder  of,  to  carve,  110. 

Veal,  Tendons  of,  281. 

Vegetable  Soup,  179. 

Vegetables,  to  keep,  55. 

Vegetables  for  children,  529. 

Vegetables  for  April,  May,  June, 
July,  150. 

Vegetables  for  August,  Septem- 
ber, October,  November,  151. 

Vegetables  for  December,  152. 

Vegetables  for  January,  February, 
149. 

Vegetable  Marrow,  230. 

Vegetables  for  March,  149. 

Vehrate,  the,  220,  241. 

Veloute  of  Bechamel,  241. 

Veloute  Sauce,  220. 

Veloute  Soup,  178. 

Venison,  to  choose,  57. 

Venison,  Fried,  374. 

Venison,  Hashed,  874. 

Venison,  Haunch  of,  to  carve,  112. 

Venison  Haunch,  374 

Venison  Haunch  Gravy,  220. 

Venison,  Neck  of,  to  carve,  112. 

Venison  Pasty,  407. 

Venison,  Potted,  350. 

Venison,  Shoulder  of,  roasted,  375. 

Venison,  Shoulder  of,  stewed, 
375. 

Venison  Soup,  171. 

Venison  Steaks,  374 

Ventilation,  20,  582, 

Verbena,  Extract  of,  541. 

Verbena  or  Vervaine,  541. 

Verjuice,  134. 

Vermicelli,  451. 

Vermicelli,  au  Lait,  526. 

Vermicelli  Puddings.  447. 

Vermin,  to  destroy,  579. 

Verviene,  Extrait  de,  541. 

Vials,  to  wash,  576. 

Victimized  Cutlets,  337. 

Victoria  Punch,  514 

Vinegar,  Aromatic,  549. 

Vinegar,  Camp,  400. 

Vinegar,  Celery,  401. 

Vinegar,  Chili,  402. 

Vinegar,  Cider,  401. 

Vinegar,  Cucumber,  400. 

Vinegar,  Elderflower,  401. 

Vinegar,  Flavored,  401. 

Vinegar,  si  Fleur  d'  Orange,  551. 

Vinegar,  Gooseberry,  402. 

Vinegar,  Henry's,  550. 

Vinegar,  Horseradish,  402. 

Vinegar,  for  India  Pickle,  400. 

Vinegar  Infusion  of  Flowers,  551. 

Vinegar,  Mint,  550. 

Vinegar,  Nasturtium,  401. 

Vinegar,  Raspberry,  401,  511. 

Vinegar,  a  la  Rose,  550. 

Vinaigre,  Rosat,  551. 

Vinaigres,  551. 

Vinaigres  Scintilliques,  551. 


Vinegar,  Sugar,  401. 

Vinegar,  Thieves,  550. 

Vinegar  de  Toilette,  550. 

Vinaigre,  Virginale,  550. 

Vinegar,  Walnut,  400. 

Violet  Essence,  539. 

Violet  Powder,  546. 

Volatile  Puree,  363. 

Vol  au  Vent,  423,  430. 

Vol  au  Vent  of  Croquettes,  424 

Vol  au  Vent  of  Fruit,  431. 

Vol  au  Vent  of  Green  Gooseber- 
ries, 431. 

Vol  au  Vent  of  Orange,  431. 

Vol  au  Vent  of  Peaches,  430. 

Vol  au  Vent  of  Pigeons  and  Sweet- 
breads, 424. 

Vol  au  Vent,  Rhubarb,  431. 

Vol  au  Vent  of  Veal,  424 


W, 

Wafer  Cakes,  470. 

Waffles,  Rice,  470. 

Waffles,  Soft,  470. 

Wagner's  Vanilla  Ice  Cream,  490. 

Wagner's  Lemon  Ice  Cream,  490. 

Wagner's  Strawberry  Ice  Cream, 

491. 

Wainscots,  to  clean,  576. 
Waiting  at  Table,  101. 
Walls,  Papered,  to  clean,  578. 
Walnut  Ketchup,  243. 
Warming  House,  19. 
Warts,  to  eradicate,  548. 
Wash  Balls,  544. 
Wash  colored  things,  571. 
Wassail  Bowl,  512. 
Water  Cress,  stewed,  888. 
Water  Ices,  491. 
Water  Gruel,  521. 
Watermelon  Rind,  to  preserve, 

498. 

Water,  Purity  of,  81. 
Water  Supply  to  towns,  80. 
Waterproof  Cements,  71. 
Waterproof  Shoes,  to  make,  578. 
Wax  Paper,  74 
Weak  Eyes,  for,  564 
Wedding  Cake,  475. 
Weights  and  Measures,  124 
Welsh  Rabbit,  456. 
What  We  Eat,  79. 
White  Beans,  Haricot,  887. 
White  Beans,  Puree  of,  386. 
White  Cream  for  Puree  Sauce, 

237. 

White  Cucumber  Puree,  237. 
White  Lipsalve,  549. 
White  Lilac  Essence,  587. 
White  Lace  Veil,  to  wash,  574 
White  Portable  Soup,  160. 
White  Rose,  Essence  of,  540. 
White  Roux,  228. 
White  Sauce,  214,  229,  230. 
White  Sauce  for  Chickens,  229 
White  Sauce,  new,  236. 
White  Sauce,  Soyer's,  232. 
White  Poultry  Sauce,  229. 
White  Silk  or  Blonde  Lace,  to 

wash,  572. 

White  Soup,  161, 163. 
White  Soup,  Stock  for,  156. 
White  Stock  for  Soup,  160. 
White  Thickening,  238. 
White  and  Black  Sausages,  327. 
White  Sausages,  325,  327,  340. 


INDEX. 


603 


White  Thickening  Sauce,  288. 
Wild  Birds,  to  carve,  115. 
Wild  Fowl  Sauce,  232. 
Wine,  Blackberry,  514. 
Wine,  Black  Currant,  515. 
Wine,  Cherry,  515. 
Wine,  Currant,  511. 
Wine,  Elder,  518. 
Wine,  Eltierflower,  516. 
Wine,  Ginger,  514. 
Wine,  Gooseberry,  516. 
Wine,  Green  Gooseberry,  516. 
Wine  Jelly,  Port,  519. 
Wine  of  Mixed  Fruits,  515. 
Wine.  Mulled  522. 
Wine,  to  mull,  512. 


Wine  Posset,  521. 

Wine  Punch,  514. 

Wine,  Rhubarb,  515. 

Wine,  Valencia,  511. 

Wine,  Whey,  5'20. 

Winter  Green,  541. 

Winter  Green,  Iceland,  541. 

Winter  Pea  Soup,  182. 

Winter  Soup,  168. 

Winter  Squash,  385. 

Winter  Vegetable  Soup,  184. 

Work,  Routine  of,  42. 

Writing,  to  take  Impressions  of, 

569. 
Writing  on  Glass,  63. 


Yankee  Apple  Batter,  506. 
Yeast  Cakes,  465. 
Yeast  Dumplings,  450. 
Yeast,  to  make,  465. 
Yeast,  Milk,  465. 
Yorkshire  Goose  Pie,  422. 
Yorkshire  Pudding,  416,  43a 
Ypocras,  513. 


Zinc  Ointment,  561 


ASTHMA,  681. 


Cold,  apparent  death  from  in- 
tense, 586. 
Corns,  581. 


Dandruff,  581. 

Drowning,    restoration    from, 

585. 


Flowers,  to  collect  the  odors  of, 

586. 
Flow-ers,  to  crystallize,  554. 

G 

Glycerine  Lotion,  582. 


ADDEKDA. 


Greek  Fire,  588. 
H 
Hair  Dressing,  566. 

I 
Intemperate   Habits,   to  cure, 

566. 
Itching,  584. 


Laundry  Polish,  582. 
Liniment,  valuable,  584. 


Piles,  583. 
Pin  Worms,  584. 
Poisons  and   their  Antidotes, 
585. 


B 

Rat  Poison,  581. 
S 

Syrups,  Soda  and  Mineral  Wa- 
ter, 584. 


Toe-Nails,  ingrowing,  582. 
Toothache  Drops,  583. 


Ventilation,      Sunlight,      and 
Warm  Clothing,  582. 

W 

Whooping  Cough,  583. 


WmmieM, 


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From  Rev.  Leonard  Bacon,  D.I>. 

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learned  Dr.  Kitto,  must  be  valuable.  The  Rev. 
Dr.  Bond,  I  cannot  doubt,  will  add  to  the  value 
of  Kitto's  "  History  of  the  Bible,"  in  the  pro- 
posed American  edition. 

LEONARD  BACON. 

New  Haven. 


From  Rev.  Theo.  I*.  Cnyler,  ».!>. 

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THEO.  L.  CUTLER, 
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Brooklyn,  N.Y. 

From  Rev.  John  P.  Gulliver,  !>.!>. 

Kitto's  "  Illustrated  History  of  the  Bible " 
appears  to  be  a  narration  of  the  facts  recorded 
in  the  Scriptures,  with  the  addition  of  a  brief 
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work.  JOHN  P.  GULLIVER, 

Pastor  of  New-England  Church,  Chicago. 


From  Rev.  M.  Emory  Wright. 

"  The  Illustrated  History  of  the  Holy  Bible  » 
has  already  been  of  great  service  to  me  in  my 
studies  of  the  Holy  Scriptures.  It  presents  the 
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ing of  the  sacred  text. 

M.  EMORY  WRIGHT, 
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Newburyport,  Mast. 


From  Rev.  O.  H.  Gonld. 

No  modern  writer  has  contributed  more  large- 
ly to  enrich  the  biblical  literature  of  our  time, 
or  to  clothe  with  a  fresh  and  living  interest  the 
main  personages  and  incidents  in  Old  Testament 
history,  than  John  Kitto.  The  present  volume 
—  "History  of  the  Bible"  — bears  all  the  marks 
of  his  wide  learning,  patient  and  accurate 
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popular  style.  The  .book  is  amply  and  finely  il- 
lustrated, and  edited  by  a  competent  American 
scholar,  Rev.  Alvan  Bond,  D.D.,  of  Norwich. 
It  deserves  a  wide  circulation  among  all  who 
love  and  prize  the  Bible.  G.  H.  GOULD, 

Pastor  1st  Cong.  Church,  Hartford,  Conn. 


From  Rev.  Benjamin  Adams. 

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works  on  the  Bible.  Yours, 

BENJAMIN   ADAMS, 
Pastor  of  Fleet  Street  M.  E.  Church. 
Brooklyn,  N.Y. 


From  Rev.  6.  E.  Thrall. 

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sacred  Word.  GEORGE  E.  THRALL, 

Rector  of  the  Church  of  the  Messiah. 
Clinton  Ave.,  Brooklyn,  N.Y. 


From  Rev.  R.  S.  Storm,  ».!>. 

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amount  of  valuable  matter  in  a  small  compass, 
and  will  be  found,  by  those  who  study  it,  very 
helpful  to  a  clear  and  large  understanding  of  th* 
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This  work,  complete  in  two  volumes  of  over  1,100  large  Royal  Octavo  pages,  is 
iow  ready  for  delivery  ;  and  it  is  also  issued  complete  in  one  volume  of  over  1,100 
>ages,  and  the  Agents  can  now  'take  subscribers  for  the  whole  work,  either  in  one 
volume  or  two. 

The  author  of  this  great  work  is  well  known  by  all  literary  men,  as  one  of  the 
most  talented  and  popular  historical  writers,  and  his  History  of  the  Great  Rebellion 
will  not  bo  surpassed  in  merit  and  attractiveness  by  any  other  that  may  be  offered 
to  the  public.  •  Numerous  Maps  and  Diagrams  are  interspersed  through  the  book. 

The  Illustrations  are  all  from  original  designs,  engraved  on  steel,  by  the  best 
Artists,  expressly  for  the  work,  and  comprise  Portraits  of  Distinguished  Command 
ere  and  Civilians,  both  North  and  South,  with  the  prominent  Battle  Scenes  of  Sea 
and  Land. 

Trusting  the  reader  will  regard  this  work  as  one  of  superior  importance  and 
value,  and  as  eminently  worthy  a  place  in  every  library  and  family  in  the  land,  the 
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friends,  and  also  by  showing  this  Circular  to  some  acquaintance  who  would  be  likely 
to  engage  in  its  distribution. 

This  is  the  best  History  of  the  War  yet  published,  and  has  had  the  largest  sale 
of  any  book  on  the  war.  More  than  300,000  volumes  have  been  subscribed  for, 
requiring  375  tons  of  paper.  Subscribers  for  the  work  who  have  obtained  the  first  vol- 
ume, but  who  have  failed  to  see  the  Agent,  may  obtain  the  second  volume  by  addressing 
the  Publisher, 

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JUST      ISSUED. 


WASHINGTON  AND  HIS  TIMES: 

EMBRACING  A 

•     HISTORY  OF  THE  SEVEN  YEARS'  WAR, 


THE 


THE 

POEMATION  OP  THE  FEDERAL  CONSTITUTION, 

AND  THE 

ADMINISTRATIONS  OF  WASHINGTON, 

EXHIBITING  THE  DARING  EXPLOITS  AND  HEROIC  ENDURANCE  OF  THE  NOBLE  PATRIOTS 
WHO  WON  OUR  LIBERTIES  AND  ESTABLISHED  OUR  INDEPENDENCE. 


"WITH 

Containing  Maxims  of  Washington,  the  Declaration  of  Independence,  the  Articles  of  Confederation, 
the  Constitution  of  the  United  States,  and  Washington's  Farewell  Address. 

EDITED  BY  REV.  WILLIAM  HUTCHISON,  A.  M. 

Principal  of  the  Ngrwich  Free  Academy,  Norwich,  Conn. 


The  book  is  a  large  octavo  of  over  600  pages,  illustrated  with  nearly  100  Engravings  on  Steel  and 
Wood,  comprising  Battle  Scenes,  the  Costumes  of  the  Times,  Portraits  of  Washington  and  his  Generals, 
views  of  noted  Buildiags,  the  homes  of  Distinguished  Men,  Mount  Vernon  and  the  Tomb  of  Washington 
as  it  now  appears. 

This  work  is  also  enriched  with  the  "Maxims  of  Washington,"  being  hia  wise  utterances  on  a  great 
variety  of  subjects,  collected  and  arranged  by  the  Editor;  together  with  the  Declaration  of  Independence, 
the  Articles  of  Confederation,  the  Constitution  of  the  United  States,  and  Washington's  Farewell  Address. 

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For  an  Agency,  apply  immediately  to  the  Publisher,        fc 

HENRY  BILL, 

NORWICH,    GOUT*. 


A   PICTORIAL 


ustorg  0f  tfje 


CONTAINING  A  GENERAL  VIEW  OF  ALL  THE  VARIOUS  NATIONS, 
STATES,    AND    REPUBLICS    OP  THE 

WESTERN  CONTINENT; 

Comprising  the  early  Discoveries  by  the  Spanish,  French,  and  other  Navigator^ 
an  account  of  the  American  Indians,  and  a 

I 

COMPLETE  HISTORY  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES  TO  THE  PRESENT  TIME, 

Including  the  French  and  Indian  Wars,  the  War  of  the  Revolution,  that  of  1812, 
the  late  War  with  Mexico,  and  embracing  the  brilliant  career  of  WASHINGTON, 
WAYNE,  JACKSON,  TAYLOR,  SCOTT,  GRANT,  and  SHERMAN,  and  their  compatriots, 
and  a 

Complete  History  of  the  Rebellion  to  its  Close. 

With  an  Appendix,  containing  important  Public  Documents,  and  closing  with 
extensive  and  valuable  Statistical  Tables. 


EDITED   BY 

JOHN  LED  YARD  DENISON,  A.M., 

AUTHOR  OB*  THE  "PICTORIAL  HISTORY  OF  THE  WAKS  ;"    "PICTORIAL  NAVAL  HISTORY  ;* 
"  TIIE  NEW   WORLD,"  IN  GEKMAN,  ETC. 

The  whole  illustrated  with  over  Three  Hundred  Ennra  ings,  some  of  which  are 
beautifully  Colored  by  hand,  true  to  Nature,  consisting  of  Battle  Scenes,  Views  of 
Cities,  Flags  of  the  various  Nations,  Prominent  Events,  and  Portraits  of  Distin 
guished  Men,  from  designs  by  LOSSING,  CROOME,  DEVERAUX,  and  other  celebrated 
American  Artists. 

In  one  large  octavo  volume,  containing  about  900  pages,  and  illustrated  with  over 
300  Engravings,  some  of  which  are  Steel,  and  many  beautifully  colored  by  hand, 
true  to  Nature,  and  will  be  bound  in  embossed  and  gilt  leather  binding,  with 
marbled  edges. 

This  work  was  so  well  received,  that  already  it  has  been  translated  into  the  Ger- 
man Language,  under  the  title  of  Illustrated  New  World  (see  opposite  page),  and 
about  20,000  copies  sold  in  the  German  Language  in  this  country  alone,  and  large 
orders  have  been  received  from  Germany,  for  the  work  in  their  language. 

For  an  Agency,  apply  to  the  Publisher, 

HENRY  BILL,  Norwich,  Conn, 


LIBRARY  USE 

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